This couldn’t have come at a better time for me as I am having a nightmare doing a soldering job I did perfectly well a week ago, now I know it isn’t me going mad, I just hadn’t considered I needed to clean my soldering iron better. Thank you so much. Roy.
@@RonsTrainsNThings got the stuff delivered yesterday and what an amazing transformation. Thank again. Will have to look at more of your videos to see what else I can learn. Thanks for following up. Roy.
Had my tip get oxidized and didn't have anything to clean it with but I have a rotary wire brush for my drill and maybe I just got lucky but I got it cleaned well enough to use it. Thanks for your video I will be cleaning all my tips soon
Hi, your video is very interesting, I didn't know about the use of solid sal ammoniac for when the tip of the soldering iron starts to rust. Many years ago I saw in a workshop that they covered the tip of the soldering iron with silver, that is, with a small torch they melted the silver on the tip, it was always shiny after soldering. I think it is a good option although the silver is a bit expensive. Thanks.
i just bought a soldering iron for first time and tried using it a few times (though i failed to fuse what i was attempting to) I wanted to know how to clean it. i keep seeing vids or articles using special sponges and other things i dont presently have.
Great info as usual - what about the other end of the tip (in the handle) - do you clean it or rely on the contact of the fastening to transfer the heet to the tip?
my question is does it matter what type of solder is used as protection when you finish soldering? we use non led solder on regular work. also i cannot seem to find solid sal ammoniac in my country. Its just ground for food and even that is non stocked. i used drill with sanding tip and lightly sanded oxidation from cold soldering tips, hopefully not damaging tips too much. but soldering iron we use just melted the tips after few days of use (jbc brand)
I want to know what can i do with my soldering iron because it is turned all copper, the tip is the only part which is blackish and everything else is just copper Do i have to get a new solder? I have a solder whose tip cannot be removed and is smaller and cheaper than yours
If the tip is down to the copper it will have to be replaced. If you invest in a new iron, definitely get one on which tips can be replaced, because tips will wear out over time.
Very Good Tips to point Ron.. If possible can you point out some Really Good Fume Extractors that a person can Buy outside of Amazon I'm not a Amazon shopper Hopefully there are Alternatives why I asked if you can point out Some you've probably done Quite a more Soldering than I although I did do my Share when I was in RC Cars Soldering the Motors and for the hooking up the Batteries.. I did this Work several years ago in a Garage the Ventilation was in abundance but now living in an apartment it's a bit hard.. that why I basically have a small sized Layout and I'm using KATO Unitrack and there power Joiners.. But that's all I wanted to Ask someday when I have the space to Grow a Garage perhaps I hope to have a Layout like you and other Great layouts I've seen on the Tube.! Take Care & Happy Halloween 🎃
As usual,,,, GR8 tip Mr. Ron!! Thanks so much! I know this is a bit, ok, a lot off topic but being an expert, I'm modeling the UP, specifically the Keddie Wye, feather river canyon route and or Sherman Hill, Echo and Weber Canyon. I haven't made my mind up on either but I really like the feather river canyon for its scenery and such. Sorry I'm getting Carried away, my question is regarding a Trix Marklin big boy. If I'm reading correctly the Trix marklin big boy will run on to rail DCC ho where the marklin itself is built specifically for the three pick up design with the pins in the middle of the ties being the + or positive and the 2 rails being the - or negitive. I've read that the marklin locomotive does not have insulated Wheels thus the Marklin track with its center pickup is necessary, but is this also true for the Trix? Sorry for going off topic but was just needing some comformation. Thanks again for all your tips and help! Jeffrey
Almost everything you said about sal ammoniac is wrong. 1. Sal ammoniac is not acid. It is a salt. (ammonium chloride) 2. It is not solid ammonia. 3. Ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) is basic not acidic.
Your Iron Tips are really mediocre, use Weller. They have nice and thick shafts, not flimsy thin shafts like you have there. No i see you have Weller ... well, use Weller professional series. there you go.
Now put that soldering iron to work. Here are some great videos about track work. Check them out: ruclips.net/p/PL05wIKjXooC2mn8ggooOTQFAoGO1ixQh9
This couldn’t have come at a better time for me as I am having a nightmare doing a soldering job I did perfectly well a week ago, now I know it isn’t me going mad, I just hadn’t considered I needed to clean my soldering iron better. Thank you so much. Roy.
Well, I'm curious, did you get it cleaned and did it help?
@@RonsTrainsNThings got the stuff delivered yesterday and what an amazing transformation. Thank again. Will have to look at more of your videos to see what else I can learn. Thanks for following up. Roy.
Ron, watched your previous video and it made a world of difference in my soldering of my jig built switches. Thanks.
Had my tip get oxidized and didn't have anything to clean it with but I have a rotary wire brush for my drill and maybe I just got lucky but I got it cleaned well enough to use it. Thanks for your video I will be cleaning all my tips soon
Great information that most of us can use right away. Thank you Ron.
Thanks Bruce.
Hi, your video is very interesting, I didn't know about the use of solid sal ammoniac for when the tip of the soldering iron starts to rust.
Many years ago I saw in a workshop that they covered the tip of the soldering iron with silver, that is, with a small torch they melted the silver on the tip, it was always shiny after soldering. I think it is a good option although the silver is a bit expensive. Thanks.
Nice video Ron. Very informative and helpful.
Thanks for great video on soldering iron maintenance. I did not know that block existed. I am going to check it out. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Great video!! Good reminder to keep my tip clean!!
i just bought a soldering iron for first time and tried using it a few times (though i failed to fuse what i was attempting to) I wanted to know how to clean it. i keep seeing vids or articles using special sponges and other things i dont presently have.
You don't need a special sponge. Any damp sponge will work great.
Get tip on the soldering irons tips, my are in pretty bad shape and need some care, this will help.
Thank you Ron.
Muse
Glad I could help. Good luck.
I just clean with the sponge but sometimes, if I need better cleanning, I insert the hot tip into a Solder Paste and instantly it cleans the tip...
Hi Ron, Good tips, I have the same model weller iron and need new tips, where do you get yours? Thank You
I buy mine mostly through Amazon.
Good tip Ron 👍
Great tips, thanks for the help!
Great info as usual - what about the other end of the tip (in the handle) - do you clean it or rely on the contact of the fastening to transfer the heet to the tip?
Always good tips....thanks for sharing....Jack
my question is does it matter what type of solder is used as protection when you finish soldering? we use non led solder on regular work.
also i cannot seem to find solid sal ammoniac in my country. Its just ground for food and even that is non stocked.
i used drill with sanding tip and lightly sanded oxidation from cold soldering tips, hopefully not damaging tips too much.
but soldering iron we use just melted the tips after few days of use (jbc brand)
Hey Ron will be adding this to my folder on tool care as mine is new. Tks again for more tips of the modeling world.
Thanks for a really useful soldering tip, Ron.
I want to know what can i do with my soldering iron because it is turned all copper, the tip is the only part which is blackish and everything else is just copper
Do i have to get a new solder?
I have a solder whose tip cannot be removed and is smaller and cheaper than yours
If the tip is down to the copper it will have to be replaced. If you invest in a new iron, definitely get one on which tips can be replaced, because tips will wear out over time.
Very useful thank you.
Protip: Never ever ever sand or try to even be abrasive with the tip.
Well that explains it! Thanks!
oh great, breathing in all that smoke an then being so conscientious and warning about that. yes, i see you, ron. i know who you are now.
Very Good Tips to point Ron.. If possible can you point out some Really Good Fume Extractors that a person can Buy outside of Amazon I'm not a Amazon shopper Hopefully there are Alternatives why I asked if you can point out Some you've probably done Quite a more Soldering than I although I did do my Share when I was in RC Cars Soldering the Motors and for the hooking up the Batteries.. I did this Work several years ago in a Garage the Ventilation was in abundance but now living in an apartment it's a bit hard.. that why I basically have a small sized Layout and I'm using KATO Unitrack and there power Joiners.. But that's all I wanted to Ask someday when I have the space to Grow a Garage perhaps I hope to have a Layout like you and other Great layouts I've seen on the Tube.!
Take Care & Happy Halloween 🎃
If there are links, I sure am not seeing them :(
Can't imagine how awful that ammonia block smells when you heat it
As usual,,,, GR8 tip Mr. Ron!! Thanks so much! I know this is a bit, ok, a lot off topic but being an expert, I'm modeling the UP, specifically the
Keddie Wye, feather river canyon route and or Sherman Hill, Echo and Weber Canyon. I haven't made my mind up on either but I really like the feather river canyon for its scenery and such. Sorry I'm getting Carried away, my question is regarding a Trix Marklin big boy. If I'm reading correctly the Trix marklin big boy will run on to rail DCC ho where the marklin itself is built specifically for the three pick up design with the pins in the middle of the ties being the + or positive and the 2 rails being the - or negitive. I've read that the marklin locomotive does not have insulated Wheels thus the Marklin track with its center pickup is necessary, but is this also true for the Trix? Sorry for going off topic but was just needing some comformation. Thanks again for all your tips and help!
Jeffrey
I’m #1
You'realways #1 in my book, Marcel. Lol.
it is not a puppy
Almost everything you said about sal ammoniac is wrong. 1. Sal ammoniac is not acid. It is a salt. (ammonium chloride) 2. It is not solid ammonia. 3. Ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) is basic not acidic.
🖖 👍
TIPS FOR CLEANING TIPS 😆
Your Iron Tips are really mediocre, use Weller. They have nice and thick shafts, not flimsy thin shafts like you have there. No i see you have Weller ...
well, use Weller professional series. there you go.