Laying Curved Flex Track on a Model Railroad Layout
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In this video I demonstrate laying curved flex track on a model railroad layout. Let me show you how I lay curved track in my helix and discuss how it differs from laying track on the visible part of the layout.
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Be sure to check out these other videos about model railroad trackwork: ruclips.net/video/Nu9qlIckU7Q/видео.html
Great vid Ron! Always nice to know that I lay my peco flex the same way!!!
FYI: on the code 55 rail, Peco has little arrows on the underside of the flex track to indicate the preferred side to be on the inside of the curve. Found this out as I started my second railroad. It's printed on the back of the paper that's between the rails.
Whoa, thanks! Just bought a boatload of these to get started, and did not know!
I too didn’t know that, but I noticed one side has spaces, the other is continuous support plastic.
if you build any layouts in flex-track, you prolly already know that... if you really need to be told that- maybe you should stick to sectional track...
@tom murphy By this logic, teaching people new things and searching for new information is a bad thing. At one point in your life, you knew NOTHING. Aren't you glad someone showed you how to tie your shoes and not crap your pants? Or would it have been better to not have this information, just because you didn't already have it?
Ron's on a whole other level with his craftsmanship, I'm still in the " gluing my fingers together " stage lol
That tiny tack hammer is adorable.
Reminiscent of Shawshank Redemption? 🤔
Thank you for this - most informative and helpful; given me the courage to try flexitrack!
It's always nice to see how others do it, I try to lay curves the same way but just a hint, use a nickel (5 cent) on the rails, to not only burnish the rail but to clean it too. This will fill the scratches with nickel and not oxidized....just a hint....👍👍👍
Intereating. Inwill try that. Thanks.
@@RonsTrainsNThings me too
How about a Dime or a Quarter they should have a bit Nickle in them they use to have a good share of Silver but I believe that's been minimized..
Done a look on U.S. Mints Web the Dimes & Quarters have 8.33% of Nickel in them the Rest made up of Copper the Nickle 5 cent is 25% Nickel the rest is made of Copper pretty good things to know.!
@@rdanscale3416 good I
to know. I wasn't sure about those coins so I'm sure they would do fine too. Th AZ nks for the info😀
that will just scratch/remove metal from the railheads- better to do something that will compact the surface and make it smoother. we use a steel roller one of our club members made.
Well done video. Very helpful. Thanks, Ron.
Excellent video. It's excellent simply because every tiny detail is explained very clearly. And the little details matter. It will help me a lot because I have been struggling for a day or two to relay curved previously used Peco Flexitrack with no success. I didn't know much about laying flexitrack on curves 5 years ago when I managed a botched job but I have now forgotten even the small amount I knew then. But it matters not because now I know how to do it properly, thanks to you. Your other videos are just as clear and helpful as this one. Thank you.
you would have better luck re-using atlas flex track as it is more flexible due to the narrower base flanges. peco track is comparatively stiff and is harder to straighten
I just recently heard about the vertical versus horizontal cutting of rail with track cutters. I didn't know that there was a "correct" way of doing it.
It has to do with the different geometry of the rail in HO vs N and what damages (crushes) each type of rail least.
Lots of great info! Thanks Ron
ty so much for these vids sorry im late on comments but im in transition from ho to n scale so all advice is welcome
Welcome to N scale. I think you'll love it. 👍🏼👍🏼
Ron is a awesome model railroader
As usual Ron your video has helped me. I wish it would have been a month before. 😆 LOL. Working on my Helix now and I'm half way through it. Using All Thread too. I've been doing some of your techniques but not all. Think that's about to change. Yours is looking great. Thanks again, Chris
I find that a Walthers bright boy or similar abrasive track cleaner is enough to remove errant solder from the rail heads and is far less aggressive than even the finest of files. And when you clean up the inside of the rails try a tapered knife file instead of the flat file, it gets into the inside of the rail head much better and will remove the roughness that your gauge is snagging on.
I've used a bright boy for this. It doesn't always remove well-adhered bits of solder. Good idea on the file. I'll try that.
600-grit sandpaper works perfectly for that- back it up with a flat block of some kind.
Great detail, not just how but why.
I'm glad you enjoyed it and found it helpful.
Ron, to make it easier to control the height of the turns with the helical, I was wondering if one took and got a cheap metal tube that fitted around the threaded rod to cut the tube all at the same length that way you don't have to worry about if you got the right height.
Just a thought to make your helical go together easier. That way you lock the nut below the ramp and than bring the washer nut down on the other and lock in than tube than nut than washer than ramp. I see so many people fighting the height where the tube would only allow the same distance every time. Sure at the beginning it would be different.
Nice job all round pal.
Well done Ron very nice.🚂
Thanks!
I use flux! Using flux on the rail before solder is BEST. It will allow the solder to QUICKLY flow right into the cracks and will require NO FILING afterwards.
I used flux in the video.
...and it helps control the flow- real important in the finer scale track.
good vid ron
Good info to know. Allway like seeing your videos.
Great info, I think Im going to make an N scale helix on my HO layout to be able to save room!
🤣🤣🤣👍🏼
use Z scale and save even MORE room....
Another great video!
some thing to keep the cutoff rail from flying. put some rtv silicone on the cut off side of you cutter. to hold your rail.
Very nice video. I like to use a nail set; feels more controllable for me. Also, wouldn't you want to slip a couple ties under the joint before the caulk sets up?
I don't put caulk in the gaps where replacement ties will be needed so I can glue them in later.
Great tips. Will you be doing a video on how you made the helix?
Yes, when I finish it.
nicely informative... great job Sir
I have visited the new store at midwest!
Awesome! What did you think?
Clean, well organized, good people. I told them you made me aware of them as well. (only because you did. )
thank you for detail video
why did lay inside curve was lay first before outside curve?
I’m just about to start a helix and this was perfect timing. Watching you work with the Peco flex track is making me reconsider using M.E. for the helix. Did you buy or make the plywood parts for the helix. I’ve been dreading laying out and cutting all of the parts... Thank you for the great video and be safe.
This is probably a dumb question, but what purpose does the Helix serve?
The helix allows trains to travel from one deck to the other on a milti-deck layout.
For the missing ties, do you put them in later, or leave them out?
Hi Philip here me and my girlfriend are doing my layout like yours but in 00 scale.were did you get the wood for the Flexi track as Iam trying to do my layout like yours going round and round.let me know
Ron, (or anyone). I'm new at this. Can you point me to a simple source to figure how to plot the degree for large curves? I've got a passenger train (Superchief) with pretty long cars and I need to complete a 180 turn inside a 4'span.11 degree pieces? 18 degree? What's minimum I can get away with and still keep those long cars on the tracks? Thanks!
I’ve had trouble making a tight curve with my Peco code 55 flex track. I attach it an solder the connections and it becomes pretty difficult to get it curved properly because the track really wants to move in both directions and not one.
I also tried to solder two lengths together to go around a curve and not have a kink like they say when you solder after you’ve already started curving. This didn’t work very well. I suspect it’s due to the tightness of my curve. It’s something like 13-14” radius 180° curve on a small layout.
I’m working things a little different, but I’d really like some tighter flex track placement from somebody.
you can bend the very ends of the track slightly to hold the curve thru the joint- we never use heat or solder on our clubs' N scale layout- especially on something as fragile as atlas code 55 track.
Actually, the PECO flex track is pre drilled with (tiny) holes from the underside, each (little more than) 6 inches.
i think ALL flex track is so equipped....at least atlas, peco, LL, and ME are.
Doesn't that rail joiner slipped over the tie create a small hump in that rail?
The joiner is so thin that any actual lift in the rail is so negligible that it will never be noticed.
...just like the 2-degree super-elevation...
good vid
The prototype staggers the rail joints. I realize the issue for modelers is the need to slide a rail joiner underneath, rather than bolt one into the web like the prototype does. But having both rail joints at the same place increases the chances of problems. Has anyone tried staggering them by an inch or so (in N scale; HO would be more like 2")? You'd lose the rail being held in place by some rail joiners, but you could take a page from the handlaid rail guys and solder a few printed circuit board ties where needed to hold things in line, using a track gauge and/or an NMRA standards gauge. This is an idea I've had but never tried, so I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this.
Unfortunately commercial flex track renders staggered joints impractical.
@@RonsTrainsNThings you can always stagger the loose rail if youre into wasting time. we tried it on one long curve in the interior of our club's N scale layout and it works no better than the flex sections i laid in a fraction of the time. if you shape the ends of the rails accordingly- you won't have a problem.
Hey Ron I'm not sure if this will covered in a future video, but as for wiring the helix do/would you need to add feeders periodically (like every other soldered piece of Peco track), or is there enough electrical conductivity due to you soldering the tracks that you could simply add a feeder to the opposite rails of each end of the helix and it power it entirely (ex: Opposite feeders. Rail A (left) is given a feeder at the bottom end of helix and because all track pieces are soldered together it has/provides enough conductivity to power all of Rail A to the top of the helix, and vice-versa for Rail B (right), which is given a feeder at the top end, and it powers that entire side to the bottom of the helix respectively)?
What you state technically should work, but track is not as good a conductor as wire and there can be a lot of track in a helix. There is over 100 feet of track on each track in this helix. That is a significant opportunity for voltage drop in the middle, so I add a set of track feeder wires on every turn (level). You will see this in the helix video when it comes out.
i never solder my track and i use feeders about every scale mile (33 ft) of track. never had any conductance problems....so, a helix would be a cinch
I use sectional track for the helix. I’ve found it much easier to deal with than flex. I use flex track on all other areas of the layout. Your thoughts?
Obviously not Ron but using sectional track would seem to me to require extra feeders and more good solder joints. On the plus side you'd have track which is already in the radius you want, assuming you can find enough sectional track in the radius you need.
i guess if you like the clickety-clacking- then good on you. happy feeders....
Ron, where do you get your liquid flux?
Barry Broyles
Amazon: amzn.to/3vQGtVZ
Do you recommend a regular latex caulk for adhering track to cork as well?
Yes, that is what I use on the visible layout on cork.
NOT that I did this 😬 but make sure when you are soldering sections of flex together that you have the slip sides connected to each other.
Yes, that is good advice. Thanks for your comment.
how could you NOT notice that when you slide out the loose rail to keep from melting ties?
Have you ever considered using super elevation in a helix?
Actually this helix is super elevated in that the subroadbed leans in about 2°, necessary for double track.
I bet that makes it easier than trying to do it with the tracks.
Hi Ron.
I have a question for you.
I noticed you laid the track right on the plywood (with a layer of adhesive between). Won't that increase the noise level of the train as it goes down the track? Wouldn't a layer of sound deadening material be advisable? Or am I overthinking this?Just curious.
Thanks
Bob
Hi Bob. I always use cork on the main layout, but mybprimary concern in the helix is head clearance and I'm not concerned here about minimal noise from locomotives, so I skip it in the helix.
you won't hear it with digital-sound units, anyway.
Ron is it necessary to put plywood down if you are using foam as a base?
That depends. I have seen people use 2" or thicker foam without plywood under it. The one thing to bear in mind is that foam shrinks a bit over time.
👍👍
Great informative video, Ron!
What code track are you using for your helix?
This is Peco code 80 track.
Hi Ron, as I'm getting ready to build my n scale railroad I'm curious.. as a kid I had an ho scale 4x8 with atlas snaptrak. I've been collecting flex track and atlas switches for years but with dcc I'm wondering if the atlas plastic frogs will be an issue with a slow moving engine without capacitors or should I use different track? My n scale island is like a 10x7 ish board. Thanks!!
it depends on the pick-up footprint of the power units- the shorter that footprint- the more problems there will be with insulated frogs. try your locomotives with the switches before you commit yourself to switch types. remember- longer switches can exacerbate the problem. avoid really short pick-up units like an 0-4-0 or a 4-wheel switcher- they will stall much more easily and can even be a problem at crossings.
Just starting what size of track do you use
My layout is all Peco code 80 track.
that means N scale
noticed no cork roadbed?
Not in the helix. It takes away vertical clearance and just isn't necessary there.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I wondered if that was your plan.
Cool Mr. RON from another Ron i do have a Question sir the Peco Track looks cool is it Code 55 or 80 and I was thinking staggering the Track in curves was better for as it holds the curve better as I've seen in videos I think the Modler was setting up HO Track I assume there isn't much different but keeping the track strait as You did Ron helps and I didn't see a Track Setta that tells me that comes with Track laying experience And it looks like when you set the the Curve with the Peco it pretty much stays put with Atlas soon as you curve it unless you pin 📌 it.! It flops back straight Guess I need to get me some Ron if I get me some Peco Code 80 will it match up to my Kato Track I though of using some to make my curves at the ends of my Layout instead of 4 pieces of Track making up a curve cut it downt to just one or maybe 2 pieces from the Peco Guess I could use the New Kato Flex Track and on that since Kato is into flex Now would you Try it in parts of your Layout..
Sorry if I had more than one Question but it surely don't hurt to ask thanks for your Time.! Sir.! Allen D RDA N Scale
you can shape the very ends of the flex track rails with pliers so they will hold the curve profile thru the joint. there's no need to take the free rail out- risking damage to the nubs that hold the rails.
HELLO RON ITS IS RANDY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL THANKS RON FRIENDS RANDY AND MY TRAIN IS MONCTON GORDON YARD
And I thought JoeG was into tinny Hammers...
I have an HO scale hammer, thats the difference!
I have a double helix and I used my router to route out 1/8" deep grooves to curve flex track. I have a video (my only one) here. ruclips.net/video/pbufk367syc/видео.html
I also show how I pre-drill my nail holes so I can push in the spikes instead of hammering.
I don't think N scale is biblical . . . Just saying . . . . It's the small foxes that spoil the vine . Good video though 😋
Curved Flex track? Then it's not flex track....
@Morgan F Bilbo No shit! I would never have guessed that? Maybe you need to tell Ronny that.
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