Thanks again Ron, I’m using leds instead of the globes as my weapon of choice and I’m definitely going to get a pair of those wire strippers. Thanks for a great video.
Nice Ron, I liked the block in the bit idea.. I had to give up on my 1156 bulbs as they were sucking to much current needed from my power hungry engines like my old P2K's on my helix.. perfect for N scale I'm sure.. thxs.. David BAC V RR
Looking good, a possible idea might be to make the metal supports electrically live. should be able to get a solder tab to trap betwixt the washer and nut for each level - feeds goes to the bottom of the rod.
Thank you so much! Amazon says says stranded. Does that mean it's single stranded like you suggested or are there many strands that should be twisted together that you warned against using? One more question please- Is it better to use a terminal lock for my feeders, or should I use tje suitcase connectors? Or grandson iso excited to see more progress each time comes.would it be ok if I sent you a copy of the layout we chose to see where you would recommend putting leads and insulated rail joiners for a second train? with great appreciation, David
Can I run wires under my first layer of foam to an outside table? Getting under the table to wire is not an option for me. This disabled ver thanks you.
Hi Ron, great instructional videos as always,could you help me in this issue greatly appreciated,have 4 n scale kato RS2 locos already dropped in dcc decoder,what sound decoder do I need for this loco ,I do know there might be some milling for speaker ,can’t seem to find any info on this thanks again
Great video. I am building an N scale layout with my grandpa, more like k build and he pays, but when we are talking about wiring he is talking about other youtubers that talk about twisting the bus wires, ie. The Dcc guy. I was wondering do you Twist your bus wires? And if you don't why?
So in theory, the light bulb is like a circuit breaker to control a short in a specific power district. That way, only that power district loses power during a short and the rest of the layout is still powered and functions without incident, right? I have wired my layout this way but am finding the bulb doesn’t come on but my nce power cab is affected by a short (the display turns off). Crystal ball question: do you think the power cab might be more sensitive to a short than the light bulb? I need to check my wiring as well. Thank you.
Hi Ron, I am new to DCC and just working through the options. I have watched this and also your previous video on DCC wiring 3 years ago. When using the bulbs for circuit protection, how do you monitor the bulbs if they are mounted under the layout and also at various locations. Is it that your locomotive will not work in that section and then you check for lights or another means
I'm planning a layout in N scale. Small layout. 16 foot main line. In DCC. My questions, would a buss line and booster be required? 14awg buss and 22awg feeders be sufficient?
i had a PVC pipe run all my wires down from my helix hide all the wire inside the pipe the suitcase connector were pushed inside the pipe to hide them too
Ron, did I miss something, or did you not install a Jumper on the Black Side of the Circuit to connect the Main Bus to the Sub-Bus on the Terminal Block, as you did with the Lightbulb on the Red Side?
well ron i built some pine trees but i need shorter ones lol, and i bought the wron furnace filter, bouht fiberglass itchy mess but kinda okish please noone else make that mistake, fyi i watched the vid 20 times lol
Ron I wire my layout the same way. However, I also started using a 1003 bulb when I could not find an 1156. It seems to work the same, maybe not as bright since its 12.8v and 12w. I can't tell the difference. Are you aware of any issues using other than an 1156 bulb?
I need to purchase a simple DC power supply for my HO scale railroad to power LED lights and other accessories. Can you help me to choose between these two selections: a 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt *10 Amp* Transformer or a 12V 5A 60W Power Supply Adapter AC DC Converter 100V~240V to 12 Volt *5 Amp* Transformer. I don't understand the 5Amp versus 10Amp pros and cons and how each choice would play out / impact my use on the layout. MANY THANKS!
The 5 amp or 10 amp simply means you can run more loco's, points and accessories with a 10 amp supply although 5 amp is usually adequate for most layouts The easiest way to explain it is to do a simple calculation Power output is calculated Voltage x Amperage = Watts or VA depending whether you use the US or European terminology Watts is US VA is European So thus 12 volt x 5 amp = 60 Watts - each item you use with it will have a wattage rating and most model loco's run at around 10 Watt thus with a 10 watt supply you can run only 6 loco's all up so as you can see or just 2 loco's plus point's or accessories So basically if you want to run 4 or 5+ loco's your going to need a very big power supply You can divide a layout into section's and use more smaller supplies
Yes, it is a Technique that goes way back. The idea is that under normal circumstances the Current is below the Threshold it takes to light the Bulb, and the Filament stays cool, and does not provide much Resistance. When you have an unlimited Current Draw (Short Circuit) the flow of Current now exceeds the Bulbs Threshold, and it lights up, increasing Resistance as the Filament gets hot.
Why don't you use 3 of the brass allthread as your bus? Just solder short pieces of wire to washers then drop them over the thread under the ply then pokek them up from underneath. It will make a much tidier job.
Just seen a clever idea for bus wiring from will Amman. He use pipe copper support in strip that he run on. 1 x 3 on both side. When he need a feeder he jus crimp a connector and screw it in a hole. Too bad RUclips don’t let us post a photo.
With the bulb exposed like that, You might look at it too long and burn your retinas. Now that you are blinded do to the exposed light shinning into your eyes how will you see the short? You might think of coving that bulb or putting on sunglasses to protect your eyes.
@@RonsTrainsNThings oh my wear a welding helmet ron, gyi i used to weld and been flashed by coworkers many times, it hurts it hurts, like sand in ur eyes
@@wykedinsanity Getting flashed by coworkers, Did you have to pay a $1 per flash? Not sure I want to see a welder flash me on any occasion. What next will we do? Plumber crack?
My layout doesn't get bounced around, vibrate, or get moisture or road grime thrown up into it. Just because they are wrong for one application does not mean theybare wrong for every application.
See how I apply similar wiring practicies to my entire layout in this video: ruclips.net/video/eK_3xcoDXNk/видео.html
I think your idea of the light bulb protecting the track circuit against shorts is a brilliant solution. Great video.
Thanks Ron, I was looking for the light bulb protection wiring
thank you for the detail video
use same for many years still use DCC first came out to Australia
Thanks again Ron, I’m using leds instead of the globes as my weapon of choice and I’m definitely going to get a pair of those wire strippers. Thanks for a great video.
Ron this was a great video. I did wire my top deck using ur method with bulbs. It has saved me at least once.
It isn't perfect,but if you don't go away and leave your layout running unattended it just works. 👍🏼👍🏼
"It has saved me at least once". That is what protection is for, better to have it for that one time than not at all
Nice Ron, I liked the block in the bit idea.. I had to give up on my 1156 bulbs as they were sucking to much current needed from my power hungry engines like my old P2K's on my helix.. perfect for N scale I'm sure.. thxs.. David BAC V RR
Thanks Ron, I enjoy all your videos.
HELLO RON ITS IS RANDY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL RON THANKS FRINEDS RANDY
Great video Ron! Soon to start wiring on my own small layout. Your video's are great instructional tools.
Excellent. . Thanks for the info.
Looking good, a possible idea might be to make the metal supports electrically live. should be able to get a solder tab to trap betwixt the washer and nut for each level - feeds goes to the bottom of the rod.
good vid
Want to see the Main Power source! Type of source and how the power is routed to the whole layout.
What size wire for leaders and size of buss wire?
Thank you so much!
Amazon says says stranded. Does that mean it's single stranded like you suggested or are there many strands that should be twisted together that you warned against using?
One more question please- Is it better to use a terminal lock for my feeders, or should I use tje suitcase connectors?
Or grandson iso excited to see more progress each time comes.would it be ok if I sent you a copy of the layout we chose to see where you would recommend putting leads and insulated rail joiners for a second train?
with great appreciation,
David
I wonder if the light bulb resistance would affect resistance-based block detection.
Can I run wires under my first layer of foam to an outside table? Getting under the table to wire is not an option for me. This disabled ver thanks you.
Hi Ron, great instructional videos as always,could you help me in this issue greatly appreciated,have 4 n scale kato RS2 locos already dropped in dcc decoder,what sound decoder do I need for this loco ,I do know there might be some milling for speaker ,can’t seem to find any info on this thanks again
I just saw T-Tap connectors. What is your opinion of T-Tap connectors verses suitcase connectors?
Great video. I am building an N scale layout with my grandpa, more like k build and he pays, but when we are talking about wiring he is talking about other youtubers that talk about twisting the bus wires, ie. The Dcc guy. I was wondering do you Twist your bus wires? And if you don't why?
So in theory, the light bulb is like a circuit breaker to control a short in a specific power district. That way, only that power district loses power during a short and the rest of the layout is still powered and functions without incident, right? I have wired my layout this way but am finding the bulb doesn’t come on but my nce power cab is affected by a short (the display turns off). Crystal ball question: do you think the power cab might be more sensitive to a short than the light bulb? I need to check my wiring as well. Thank you.
Hi Ron, I am new to DCC and just working through the options. I have watched this and also your previous video on DCC wiring 3 years ago. When using the bulbs for circuit protection, how do you monitor the bulbs if they are mounted under the layout and also at various locations. Is it that your locomotive will not work in that section and then you check for lights or another means
I'm planning a layout in N scale. Small layout. 16 foot main line. In DCC. My questions, would a buss line and booster be required? 14awg buss and 22awg feeders be sufficient?
i had a PVC pipe run all my wires down from my helix hide all the wire inside the pipe the suitcase connector were pushed inside the pipe to hide them too
Ron, did I miss something, or did you not install a Jumper on the Black Side of the Circuit to connect the Main Bus to the Sub-Bus on the Terminal Block, as you did with the Lightbulb on the Red Side?
well ron i built some pine trees but i need shorter ones lol, and i bought the wron furnace filter, bouht fiberglass itchy mess but kinda okish please noone else make that mistake, fyi i watched the vid 20 times lol
Ron I wire my layout the same way. However, I also started using a 1003 bulb when I could not find an 1156. It seems to work the same, maybe not as bright since its 12.8v and 12w. I can't tell the difference. Are you aware of any issues using other than an 1156 bulb?
Unrelated to wiring but have you tried the bubble level app for android and compared that to the digital vlevel you have?
Could u use leds for short protection.
LEDs don't use the amount of current and just work differently, so not a direct replacement for the incandescent bulbs for this application.
I need to purchase a simple DC power supply for my HO scale railroad to power LED lights and other accessories. Can you help me to choose between these two selections: a 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt *10 Amp* Transformer or a 12V 5A 60W Power Supply Adapter AC DC Converter 100V~240V to 12 Volt *5 Amp* Transformer. I don't understand the 5Amp versus 10Amp pros and cons and how each choice would play out / impact my use on the layout. MANY THANKS!
The 5 amp or 10 amp simply means you can run more loco's, points and accessories with a 10 amp supply although 5 amp is usually adequate for most layouts
The easiest way to explain it is to do a simple calculation
Power output is calculated Voltage x Amperage = Watts or VA depending whether you use the US or European terminology
Watts is US VA is European
So thus 12 volt x 5 amp = 60 Watts - each item you use with it will have a wattage rating and most model loco's run at around 10 Watt thus with a 10 watt supply you can run only 6 loco's all up so as you can see or just 2 loco's plus point's or accessories
So basically if you want to run 4 or 5+ loco's your going to need a very big power supply
You can divide a layout into section's and use more smaller supplies
Hi Ron, Can you use the 1157 bulb short protection method on DC only layouts? Peter.
Yes, it is a Technique that goes way back.
The idea is that under normal circumstances the Current is below the Threshold it takes to light the Bulb, and the Filament stays cool, and does not provide much Resistance.
When you have an unlimited Current Draw (Short Circuit) the flow of Current now exceeds the Bulbs Threshold, and it lights up, increasing Resistance as the Filament gets hot.
@@davidawalkerjr2905 Thanks David
Why don't you use 3 of the brass allthread as your bus? Just solder short pieces of wire to washers then drop them over the thread under the ply then pokek them up from underneath. It will make a much tidier job.
Just seen a clever idea for bus wiring from will Amman. He use pipe copper support in strip that he run on. 1 x 3 on both side. When he need a feeder he jus crimp a connector and screw it in a hole. Too bad RUclips don’t let us post a photo.
With the bulb exposed like that, You might look at it too long and burn your retinas. Now that you are blinded do to the exposed light shinning into your eyes how will you see the short? You might think of coving that bulb or putting on sunglasses to protect your eyes.
SMH 🤣🤣🤣
@@RonsTrainsNThings oh my wear a welding helmet ron, gyi i used to weld and been flashed by coworkers many times, it hurts it hurts, like sand in ur eyes
@@wykedinsanity Getting flashed by coworkers, Did you have to pay a $1 per flash? Not sure I want to see a welder flash me on any occasion. What next will we do? Plumber crack?
Safety 1st Ron, do not look at the bulb
@@IMRROcom good thing he isn't using LEDs
I'm confused. What is the difference between a dcc bus and power bus?
Well, DCC bus is a power bus, but you can also have a separate power bus for accessories that is not the DCC bus.
Why did you not just run the feeder wire right over to the blocks and save yourself the extra time and wire?
No, it would take a lot more wire to run every feeder to the block. Thats why Inuse the sub bus.
I DON'T USE BULBS I USE C/B FOR MY RAILROAD
Insulation displacement connector-worst connection ever. Just ask anybody with a trailer.
My layout doesn't get bounced around, vibrate, or get moisture or road grime thrown up into it. Just because they are wrong for one application does not mean theybare wrong for every application.