Bro thank you! You fixed my can i wish i would have come across this sooner. Mine was the same no codes i had the egr deleted so didnt think this would be my problem. My symptoms where Loss of power below 2000 rpm Dpf doing regens every few miles No codes Diesel knock in mornings and below 2000rpm Things i replaced due to my local garage recommending it Differential pressure sensor Map sensor Maf sensor 4x injectors and seals Turbo vgt motor How is it a garage cant fix it but a youtube video and a few hrs in the garden solved my issue. Thanks again buddy so helpfull ive got my beloved van back after everyone told me to give up and sell it
My van is literally in the garage as we speak with the exact same problem. It’s been playing up for weeks and they’ve just now realised it was the egr valve.
Nice guide. If you don't have a ramp\lift, you can remove the radiator fan. Unplug the 2 conections on top of the fan. Then lay the wire harness to the side. Bend the plastic tabs on each side of the fan shroud a bit. (lower ones). And you can pull the fan up and out of the engine bay. If you need even more space around the valve, unbolt the dipstick tube (8mm), and push it to the side careful. My 2015 2.2 125hp had a surging problem below 2000rpm. Valve had wrong values. (cheap rebuilt one). Oem Ford egr solved the problem.
Can you describe the surging problem in a little more detail? I think mine might have the same issue: Surging in power on part throttle between 1500-2k rpm, when under light-moderate load (e.g. cruising at 70mph). Boost pressure fluctuates, it's almost as if the throttle is being pressed on-off-on-off repeatedly...
@@youwilllovethistube Mine was the exact way. Changed the egr to a new Ford one. And its back to normal. Look att what the egr valve is doing at the same time. It should not be going up and down wildly at steady throttle % wise.
Thanks for this video, did this job today after seeing your video as had a egr stuck closed fault. One thing on my van the coolant clips were a pain to get with pliers. Would take lots of time off the job with a better method. Nearly thought I wouldn't be able to do it getting to the bottom coolant hose. Also top tip with the coolant hose clamps, saved myself hassle and time with this!
Hi Marty, is it possible you could do a glowplug removal tutorial for the custom, i have to replace one next week and know it involves taking the inlet manifold and egr valve off, thanks
Man, you saved my day! I've got the very same problem with no boost under 2000 rpm and was already afraid it's a faulty turbocharger. Thanks a lot for your expertise, explanation and video on how to replace the part. Now the only decision I have to make is: original Ford part (double down the costs) or from other manufacturer. Any pros and cons? Thanks, cheers.
Is this the 105bhp engine air intake thats different to the 130? It looks to be mirrored compared to my air intake. Asking because i'm looking to buy an induction kit but sellers say it might not fit. Thanks for your time in posting this vid👍
I run a 2016 transit cargo with the 2.2 lump and it has always been gutless below 2000rpm but absolutely fine above. Been on the dealers computer and they can’t find any issue, wonder if I clean the egr would it improve 🤔
I have a Ford Mondeo 2.0 tcdi mk4 and have no power under 2k or sometimes 3k RPMs. After resetting the MAF it momentarily had power. Issue started when I had the EGR blocked off and decided to remove the plate I blocked it off with because it took so long to heat up. Can a MAF sensor cause power loss at certain rpm's? I fiddled with the wires because had worn thru the insulation and it started working as before.
hi there, great video. we had the same problem same same car ,changed the EGR Valve but havent solved the problem . what could be the problem ? its so annoying ,no faults code of course. thanks in advance
Hello and thank you for watching, well the reason the egr causes these symptoms is because it jams open and you loose a amount of turbo boost pressure, that's why once the turbo spins up enough at higher reves you hit the power back, so I would say you have a leak somewhere in the charge air system, I would visually cheak all pipes and intercooler then if you can't find nothing you may need to get it pressure tested or find someone with a smoke machine that can identify the leak, hope this helps.
Hi my Ford custom just cut out while driving a loss of power that when I turn the key again it doesn't start however when I leave it for a while and then turn the key again it starts I have no idea why it's doing it could you give me advice on what causing it thanks.
I had this issue with my transit custom 15 plate it was the starter motor. Would start fine in the morning but wouldn't start again until cold hope this helps.
Diesel pre Pump that sucks Diesel from the fuel Tank towards the high pressure Diesel pump. It sits in the fuel Tank. There is an error code it goes along with this Symptome in your engine management. Something about low fuel pressure
Had a limp mode issue which I fixed with an intake air temp sensor. But getting an intermittent MAF fault even though I’ve replaced it prior… I’ve pulled the EGR out and gave it a good clean. Getting over 2000RPM and seems to have pull and power. Just wondering how and why I’m getting MAF fault. Any thoughts?
@@Martysworkshop so, 2014 2.2 with 138k. There seams to be knock between 1500 -2000 rpm, under load and off boost and not much power. As soon as the turbo kicks in there’s plenty of power and the knock goes away. I’ve changed all 4 injectors, 4 glow plugs, EGR valve and the glow plug module. Every so often the “engine malfunction light comes on” and goes into limp mode. But if I turn the key off and back on then it goes off. No EML. And no codes coming up. Been to 3 different garages and they haven’t a clue. I’m stuck.
@@Martysworkshop it is. Weird thing is every so often the noise goes away and the van drives perfectly until I turn the key off then it’s back the next time I drive it . I’m in Barry - South Wales
Bro thank you! You fixed my can i wish i would have come across this sooner.
Mine was the same no codes i had the egr deleted so didnt think this would be my problem.
My symptoms where
Loss of power below 2000 rpm
Dpf doing regens every few miles
No codes
Diesel knock in mornings and below 2000rpm
Things i replaced due to my local garage recommending it
Differential pressure sensor
Map sensor
Maf sensor
4x injectors and seals
Turbo vgt motor
How is it a garage cant fix it but a youtube video and a few hrs in the garden solved my issue.
Thanks again buddy so helpfull ive got my beloved van back after everyone told me to give up and sell it
Thank you for your feedback, I'm glad my video can help
My van is literally in the garage as we speak with the exact same problem. It’s been playing up for weeks and they’ve just now realised it was the egr valve.
No way! I hope my video could help. And thank you for watching.
@@Martysworkshop I wish I’d seen it a few weeks ago now but at least it confirmed what they told me lol I’m also in South Wales by the way lol
Nice guide. If you don't have a ramp\lift, you can remove the radiator fan.
Unplug the 2 conections on top of the fan. Then lay the wire harness to the side.
Bend the plastic tabs on each side of the fan shroud a bit. (lower ones).
And you can pull the fan up and out of the engine bay.
If you need even more space around the valve, unbolt the dipstick tube (8mm), and push it to the side careful.
My 2015 2.2 125hp had a surging problem below 2000rpm.
Valve had wrong values. (cheap rebuilt one).
Oem Ford egr solved the problem.
Thank you for your input, I will copy this in the video description to help others If you don't mind, and yes I stay well away from cheep parts.
@@Martysworkshop No worries mate, please do. Make it easy for guys doing the same repair.
Thank you again for your input
Can you describe the surging problem in a little more detail?
I think mine might have the same issue: Surging in power on part throttle between 1500-2k rpm, when under light-moderate load (e.g. cruising at 70mph). Boost pressure fluctuates, it's almost as if the throttle is being pressed on-off-on-off repeatedly...
@@youwilllovethistube Mine was the exact way. Changed the egr to a new Ford one. And its back to normal. Look att what the egr valve is doing at the same time. It should not be going up and down wildly at steady throttle % wise.
Thanks for this video, did this job today after seeing your video as had a egr stuck closed fault. One thing on my van the coolant clips were a pain to get with pliers. Would take lots of time off the job with a better method. Nearly thought I wouldn't be able to do it getting to the bottom coolant hose. Also top tip with the coolant hose clamps, saved myself hassle and time with this!
Thank you for your feedback, yes I agree they are a pain thank you for your support.
Did you use remote hose clip pliers to get yours off? Think they might have made it much easier!
I used long point nosed plires with a 45° end. I do fancy a remote clip tool.
Hi Marty, is it possible you could do a glowplug removal tutorial for the custom, i have to replace one next week and know it involves taking the inlet manifold and egr valve off, thanks
I will see what I can do, thank you for watching.
Man, you saved my day! I've got the very same problem with no boost under 2000 rpm and was already afraid it's a faulty turbocharger. Thanks a lot for your expertise, explanation and video on how to replace the part. Now the only decision I have to make is: original Ford part (double down the costs) or from other manufacturer. Any pros and cons? Thanks, cheers.
Thank you for your feedback, well i used a name brand aftermarket one and fingers crossed no problem. Its up to you tho
Is this the 105bhp engine air intake thats different to the 130? It looks to be mirrored compared to my air intake. Asking because i'm looking to buy an induction kit but sellers say it might not fit.
Thanks for your time in posting this vid👍
This is a transit custom limited 130
Very useful video! Is it nesseary to train the new one by obd-tools?
No the egr auto learns every time you key the ignition on, so its just plug and play.
Thanks from France. 👍
I'm glad my video could help thank you
Good video pal did you have to program the new egr valve to the ecu people keep telling me you have to take the van to ford to sync the new egr thanks
I didn't I just plugged and played, thank you for your feedback
Awesome thank you
Glad my video could help
Meiner hat leichtes ruckeln / vibrieren beim beschleunigen im 2 Gang. Kann es auch daran liegen?
Viele Grüße aus Deutschland
Possibly
I run a 2016 transit cargo with the 2.2 lump and it has always been gutless below 2000rpm but absolutely fine above. Been on the dealers computer and they can’t find any issue, wonder if I clean the egr would it improve 🤔
Yea this had no fault codes so could be.
I have a Ford Mondeo 2.0 tcdi mk4 and have no power under 2k or sometimes 3k RPMs. After resetting the MAF it momentarily had power.
Issue started when I had the EGR blocked off and decided to remove the plate I blocked it off with because it took so long to heat up.
Can a MAF sensor cause power loss at certain rpm's? I fiddled with the wires because had worn thru the insulation and it started working as before.
Possibly, if it doesn't know how much air is going in then it can't put the correct fuel in
Hi,
Did you have any fault codes in the PCM memory?
I didn't make a note of it sorry
hi there, great video. we had the same problem same same car ,changed the EGR Valve but havent solved the problem . what could be the problem ? its so annoying ,no faults code of course. thanks in advance
Hello and thank you for watching, well the reason the egr causes these symptoms is because it jams open and you loose a amount of turbo boost pressure, that's why once the turbo spins up enough at higher reves you hit the power back, so I would say you have a leak somewhere in the charge air system, I would visually cheak all pipes and intercooler then if you can't find nothing you may need to get it pressure tested or find someone with a smoke machine that can identify the leak, hope this helps.
Can you re-use the gaskets?
Yes you can but a new valve usually comes with a new gasket,
Hi my Ford custom just cut out while driving a loss of power that when I turn the key again it doesn't start however when I leave it for a while and then turn the key again it starts I have no idea why it's doing it could you give me advice on what causing it thanks.
I haven't got a clue off the top of my head sorry, the older vans suffer with ignition switches but thease customs are a lot better,
I had this issue with my transit custom 15 plate it was the starter motor. Would start fine in the morning but wouldn't start again until cold hope this helps.
Diesel pre Pump that sucks Diesel from the fuel Tank towards the high pressure Diesel pump.
It sits in the fuel Tank.
There is an error code it goes along with this Symptome in your engine management. Something about low fuel pressure
Had a limp mode issue which I fixed with an intake air temp sensor. But getting an intermittent MAF fault even though I’ve replaced it prior…
I’ve pulled the EGR out and gave it a good clean. Getting over 2000RPM and seems to have pull and power.
Just wondering how and why I’m getting MAF fault.
Any thoughts?
There are lots of things that can affect the maf reading unfortunately, the egr is a common one, also a boost leak or air intake leak.
Hi mate do u know much about these vans/ engines? R u from South Wales 🏴 by any chance?
I know a bit, so what seems to be your problem?
@@Martysworkshop so, 2014 2.2 with 138k.
There seams to be knock between 1500 -2000 rpm, under load and off boost and not much power. As soon as the turbo kicks in there’s plenty of power and the knock goes away.
I’ve changed all 4 injectors, 4 glow plugs, EGR valve and the glow plug module.
Every so often the “engine malfunction light comes on” and goes into limp mode. But if I turn the key off and back on then it goes off. No EML. And no codes coming up. Been to 3 different garages and they haven’t a clue. I’m stuck.
Hmm that certainly is a strange one, where are you based??
@@Martysworkshop it is. Weird thing is every so often the noise goes away and the van drives perfectly until I turn the key off then it’s back the next time I drive it . I’m in Barry - South Wales
Have you had it plugged in withva diagnostic computer while the engine malfunction is on the dash?
obviously and basically is my new most hated words 🥴
Lol sorry I will try and script my videos better, thank you for watching