The brakes are SOOOOO much better! I love the brakes now. They have good bite and don't seem to fade much at all after a bit of spirited driving. I'm definitely glad I did just the regular brembo rotors and performance pads. I wish I would have done a 60-0 with the stock set up because I know this would destroy that. The pedal is firmer and inspires a lot more confidence in hard braking situations. Thanks for checking out my channel!
I actually drove both M sport and regular brakes. They don’t seem any different if you do one or two even 3 hard braking… the M sport brakes with fixed caliper really shines after you do more than 3 hard braking or emergency stops… they resist brake fade sooo much more than stock. I also have the M package and M brakes so there are additional vents directing air to the tires for cooling. In short one or two panic stops… you really can’t tell the difference, now you race it on a track and you’ll see the difference after a few corners
This is hands down the best video DIY on brake fluid flush for a bmw f series. I’m sure I’ll be watching it a few more times as I flush my brakes getting ready for a track day. Excellent stuff.
superb detailed DIY for brake bleed! have always been leery of pressurized bleed systems as if they leak it can be a mess, especially with brake fluid. This is detailed enough to make it worthwhile
Thanks! If you can do an oil change, this is is definitely possible. It's all about having the correct tools! If you buy the whole bleeder bottle system you'll probably wanna use it more often. Annnnd not sure if she does? 😂
I don't know how many hundreds of DIY videos I've seen, but this is in the top 5 for sure. I think you've thought of everything here, and being a bit OCD, I certainly appreciate it. If you get bored, you can do a coolant flush video on a Lotus Exige. Hell, I'll pay you to do it! :)
Thanks Andrew! Devil's in the details! You have an auxiliary radiator in the wheel well? They're usually lower than the lower than the radiator in front of the engine. A good lown place to start draining. 😉
if you empty the reservoir before starting . . . how much fluid did you extract from each corner before it started coming through clear?? My fluid is pretty much the same colour as that I'm replacing it with and so very difficult to know when I've changed it out as there's no colour change and I want to be sure I've flushed through completely.
A complete flush should be around 12oz or 355mL. My motul bottles are 300mL each and I made sure to use more than that. Years ago, companies used to make different colored fluids, not sure why they stopped, probably some safety related thing like kids drinking drinking it thinking it's kool-aid.
Thanks. Well done video! Clearly explained and filmed. I have 2014, 4-series with these brakes (M-Sport) and I like them a lot. I did upgrade to Cool Carbon pads though as the factory pads dusted horribly. They are strong and easy to modulate. I do a lot of my own work, but I've always left brake bleeding to someone else. You've made this look super simple. I've been inspired!
I appreciate that! I always thought bleeding the brakes was going to be super complicated and required special tools. That power bleeder makes it amazingly simple! If you already do your own pads and rotors, you can do this, NO PROBLEM! 😁👍 I'm going to do a stainless/braided line video in a few days. You should pick those up with the power bleeder and do them the next time you do a fluid flush. Two stones, one bird. 🤣 You have a 435? If so, everything under the hood is identical to my little 235. You'll just have a little more room because your car is bigger. Thanks for checking out my channel! You looking for anything else?
@@TheWrenchLab I have a 428i, but I've also been thinking about doing the SS brake lines as well. Not looking for anything in particular, although at some point I'd like to somehow selectively re-color part of my door cards, lol. My interior is completely black and I'd like to add just a bit of contrast. I've been thinking about trying some leather/vinyl aerosol paint on the middle part of the card where the handle and switches are.
I agree Trevor. OORAH!! Great right to the subject, no rambling like others. Detailed information! If you're watching people, subscribe to get updates on great new videos!!
Run mineral spirits through the hose. Then pour a little in the bottle and wipe it out with a shop towel. Also use a shop towel to wipe off the bottom of the pump mechanism. Easy day.
About the bubbles, there are 2 types. One is that from the brake lines inside, one is from the bleeder valve itself that gets sucked in when the bleeder valve is open. You can listen to the ladder one with your ears, and also there is nothing to worry about. The bubbles that you should concern about are those inside the brake lines. Just bleed 300ml on each brake. That should take care of it.
Thanks for the video I will use this as a guide for my m140i. My brakes feel terrible. I will use your other guide and do an overhaul of discs pads and braided lines with fluid :) thanks
Why do you take the basket out? Is it just to get at the lower fluid in the reservoir? I'm not sure it's worth the effort although that pick you showed does the trick nicely.
I did it so I could get the turkey baster inside the master cylinder to suck out old fluid along with any dirt and debris. That way I'm not pulling that junk all the way through the system when I flush the fluid. 😁
Duuuude I JUST picked a motive kit up for the Audi and I'm mad that I didn't buy one years ago lol. It makes it sooooo much easier than having someone pump the brakes or using those stupid vacuum style bleeders EDIT: wow mine even leaks in the same spot; I forgot to go back and fix it. I guess this serves as a reminder!
I talk about how the power bleeder works at the 7:00 min mark. As long as you make sure the bottle stays in position where the pick up straw is in the fluid, you're good.
Great video, thanks! I noticed that you didn't use ISTA/D to run the DSC pump after bleeding and re-bleed to ensure there are no bubbles in the pump. I've read some accounts that you need to do that to ensure a good bleed. Is there a reason you didn't? Is it not necessary to do?
I had intended to make a separate video for that because it's a very involved process. Getting the program, laptop, cables, etc. I will hit that in a video where I change the brakes lines out for stainless steel / braided lines, eventually. I do think it's a necessary part of maintenance. I also think that there's a risk/reward when it comes to DIY projects such as that. For those familiar with ISTA, that already have the tools, it might seem like no big deal. For others, it may be an absolutely daunting task... to use your laptop, a program you downloaded from some questionable website, and connect to your car with a cable you got on eBay...to do something you've never done. I guess eventually you're tempted enough to touch your tongue but to a 9v battery. 🤣
@@TheWrenchLab I bit the bullet this weekend and tried it myself using ISTA. It was a lot easier than I expected, but a few things surprised me that you might want to know if you end up making a follow-up video. First, the recommended bleed order is actually left-rear, left-front, right-front, right-rear (different than any other car I've owned). Second, with ISTA it's still a two person job. You're supposed to pump the brakes while bleeding while the DSC pump is being cycled. Can't do it with just one person. You're right that it's a bit daunting, but it's not too bad.
Great looking out Justin! The different order 🤔 wonder if that is actually due to the length? I've only seen one video of someone actually using ISTA/IMPA do to the ABS module and they only did the rear brakes. I don't think they mentioned the order either. He left the bleed valve open and did the laptop and brake pedal all by himself. You don't recommend that?
@@TheWrenchLab In hindsight, that probably would have worked. The instructions in ISTA specifically state that you need two people, but I probably could have cracked the valve, then started the DSC pump, then pumped the brakes, then closed the valve. As it stands, ISTA runs through ~5 different steps (from memory as I did this yesterday, so might be wrong here) Note, all this is after you've already bled the brakes the normal way. Then you go into ISTA and find the brake bleed procedure (I think it was under "Chassis"?) 1) cycle the pump with no valves cracked while pumping brakes (1 person job, I pumped the pedal while the DSC pump ran for ~15 seconds) 2) cycle the pump while bleeding left-rear brake and pumping pedal (2 person job, but you might be able to do it one person as you said. The pump only cycles for about 10-15 seconds so everything was just happening so quickly that I just skipped the "pump the pedal" part) 3) cycle the pump while bleeding the left front brake while pumping the brakes (same as step 2, I just skipped the pedal pumping part) 4) cycle the pump again with no valves cracked while pumping brakes (identical to step 1, so I pumped the brakes) 5) bleed all four corners again, with the DSC pump off, just to make sure you get all the new bubbles out I should note that I've got a B58 and I think you have an N55, but I don't think that would affect this procedure at all.
What if you realize that you’re out of fluid in the power bleeder. Do you have to restart if you realize too late? Also, if you need to add more fluid to it, any specific steps to take?
As long there's still fluid in your master cylinder you're just fine. When you refill the power bleeder, loosen the cap slowly (15:30 in the video) then add more fluid, put the cap back on and pump it up again. No biggie. 🤙👍
Great video Great piece of kit .. putting mines into bmw to get done . I feel I need to do I little double pump on the pedal to get the bite . Did you have the same issue before you changed the fluid ? Keep up the great work 😁
The brakes were absolutely horrible before I did the pads/rotors and fluid flush! I know exactly what you mean! I had no confidence in the brakes prior to this. They are so much better now. I still think they're far from perfect but it's definitely an improvement. It's as if the master cylinder doesn't build enough pressure. It's just not worth replacing on a street car. If this was a full out, race build, I'd replace it with a different, more powerful (and consistent) unit.
Hey man! Great video. I was just wondering when you add the new brake fluid, is that to the pump bottle only or do you top up some new fluid in the reservoir? Thanks
If the brake fluid is low during a regular fluid check, just add some to the brake master cylinder reservoir. When bleeding the brakes, the pressurized bottle has a line that runs down into the bottom of the bottle, where the new brake fluid is. Pumping the bottle up to pressurize it, pressurizes the brake system, through the top of the master cylinder reservoir. So, when you loosen one of the bleeder valves on a brake caliper, that pressure forces brake fluid from the bottle into the top of the reservoir and into the brake lines. It makes sense as I say it, but does that make sense to you? I probably over explained that.
I've been totally slacking on making any videos lately. The old "I've been so busy" excuse. I have a bunch of ideas for my next few videos, I just need to start it up again! Anything you'd like to see? Thanks for checking out my channel by the way! 👍
That depends... If the master cylinder is empty, air could be getting pulled into the brake lines during the bleeding process. If that's the case, you need to bleed them again (all 4) to ensure there's no air in the lines. As tempting as it may be, I wouldn't recycle any of the fluid from the bleed bottles. Dirt and debris from the lines going directly into the master cylinder... No thanks. As long as the master cylinder had enough fluid in it, to prevent air from getting pulled into the system, you're good. I assume you're asking because the level of fluid in the Motive "jug" got low or the bottle moved while you were bleeding them. If you have any doubt, just do the whole thing over again, yes, it's time consuming and will cost you more $ for another couple bottles brake fluid. However, piece of mind, knowing you did an additional flush, will help you sleep at night. I look at it this way, getting to bleed the brakes a second time, is getting more experience with the process, which pays off big time when you start doing track days. Besides, a double flush, further insures the lines are purged and clean. 😁 You're just getting some extra quality time with your car.
The answer is yes, if you want to do it as per BMW spec. The DSC motor will whir at each corner bleed based off a step by step guide in the ISTA program.
The system will never be %100 sealed. Over time, air and moisture will eventually get in the system. It doesn't help that brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts water. Little by little, bubbles will find their way in which over time causes a spongy brake pedal. It's just part of necessary maintenance.
The harbor freight jack I have isn't even available there anymore. Besides, it's not low or long enough to reach the front center jack point without pulling on my diy wood ramps. My recommendation, measure the height of front lip on your car and the distance to the jack point, try and find the lowest and longest jack you can afford at harbor freight. It's easier to do that at an actual store because they have the jacks out on the floor to look at, and measure. 😉
I'm not impressed by the M sport brakes either. Let us know if you notice the brake performance improved after removing the bubbles.
The brakes are SOOOOO much better! I love the brakes now. They have good bite and don't seem to fade much at all after a bit of spirited driving. I'm definitely glad I did just the regular brembo rotors and performance pads. I wish I would have done a 60-0 with the stock set up because I know this would destroy that. The pedal is firmer and inspires a lot more confidence in hard braking situations.
Thanks for checking out my channel!
I actually drove both M sport and regular brakes. They don’t seem any different if you do one or two even 3 hard braking… the M sport brakes with fixed caliper really shines after you do more than 3 hard braking or emergency stops… they resist brake fade sooo much more than stock. I also have the M package and M brakes so there are additional vents directing air to the tires for cooling. In short one or two panic stops… you really can’t tell the difference, now you race it on a track and you’ll see the difference after a few corners
Mikey deserves way more subscribers
Thanks Trevor! I'll get there eventually.
This is hands down the best video DIY on brake fluid flush for a bmw f series. I’m sure I’ll be watching it a few more times as I flush my brakes getting ready for a track day. Excellent stuff.
Thanks Uncle Ben! A lot of people don't realize how simple the process actually is if you have a power bleeder. 😁
Almost. However, he didn’t do the abs auto bleed and missed a step
superb detailed DIY for brake bleed! have always been leery of pressurized bleed systems as if they leak it can be a mess, especially with brake fluid. This is detailed enough to make it worthwhile
Glad you found it! It's always good to put some plastic down on the floor under the brakes, juuust in case. Don't worry though, you got this!
Awesome attention to details! Makes me want to try to change brake fluid on my car. Hope your wife appreciates your awesome attention to details.
Thanks! If you can do an oil change, this is is definitely possible. It's all about having the correct tools! If you buy the whole bleeder bottle system you'll probably wanna use it more often. Annnnd not sure if she does? 😂
This video is amazing. Thank you. I appreciate people like you who take your own personal time to put such a well informative video like this out. 👏
Excellent presentation, agreed.
I don't know how many hundreds of DIY videos I've seen, but this is in the top 5 for sure. I think you've thought of everything here, and being a bit OCD, I certainly appreciate it. If you get bored, you can do a coolant flush video on a Lotus Exige. Hell, I'll pay you to do it! :)
Thanks Andrew! Devil's in the details! You have an auxiliary radiator in the wheel well? They're usually lower than the lower than the radiator in front of the engine. A good lown place to start draining. 😉
Thanks for making these videos. I just bought a M235i and I love learning how to do things myself! Keep it up.
No, thank you for watching!
Brembo says to start with the inner bleeder on the four piston caliper.
Damn this makes it seem so easy! I'm glad I found this guy!
Great detailed video. Going to change to bleed my brakes now!
Excellent video! You are clear and well spoken, and the video editing is perfect. Can’t wait to do this process on my F80 M3! Thanks!
Thanks Kevin! Thanks for checking out the channel and taking the time to watch the video! 🤙👏🙏
Ppl do differ on this but to me, inside first then outside make more sense for the fronts. Any service manual info on that?
if you empty the reservoir before starting . . . how much fluid did you extract from each corner before it started coming through clear?? My fluid is pretty much the same colour as that I'm replacing it with and so very difficult to know when I've changed it out as there's no colour change and I want to be sure I've flushed through completely.
A complete flush should be around 12oz or 355mL. My motul bottles are 300mL each and I made sure to use more than that. Years ago, companies used to make different colored fluids, not sure why they stopped, probably some safety related thing like kids drinking drinking it thinking it's kool-aid.
Thanks. Well done video! Clearly explained and filmed. I have 2014, 4-series with these brakes (M-Sport) and I like them a lot. I did upgrade to Cool Carbon pads though as the factory pads dusted horribly. They are strong and easy to modulate. I do a lot of my own work, but I've always left brake bleeding to someone else. You've made this look super simple. I've been inspired!
I appreciate that! I always thought bleeding the brakes was going to be super complicated and required special tools. That power bleeder makes it amazingly simple! If you already do your own pads and rotors, you can do this, NO PROBLEM! 😁👍 I'm going to do a stainless/braided line video in a few days. You should pick those up with the power bleeder and do them the next time you do a fluid flush. Two stones, one bird. 🤣
You have a 435? If so, everything under the hood is identical to my little 235. You'll just have a little more room because your car is bigger.
Thanks for checking out my channel! You looking for anything else?
@@TheWrenchLab I have a 428i, but I've also been thinking about doing the SS brake lines as well. Not looking for anything in particular, although at some point I'd like to somehow selectively re-color part of my door cards, lol. My interior is completely black and I'd like to add just a bit of contrast. I've been thinking about trying some leather/vinyl aerosol paint on the middle part of the card where the handle and switches are.
Great video, pays the sort of attention to detail I like to see.
Thanks! 👍
loved Your video was super awesome and super easy to understand and follow
I agree Trevor. OORAH!! Great right to the subject, no rambling like others. Detailed information! If you're watching people, subscribe to get updates on great new videos!!
Question is how can you store the Brake Fluid Flush Kit
are you gonna clean it up?
If you do please show us how you clean it
Run mineral spirits through the hose. Then pour a little in the bottle and wipe it out with a shop towel. Also use a shop towel to wipe off the bottom of the pump mechanism. Easy day.
@@TheWrenchLab
Thanks a lot
About the bubbles, there are 2 types. One is that from the brake lines inside, one is from the bleeder valve itself that gets sucked in when the bleeder valve is open. You can listen to the ladder one with your ears, and also there is nothing to worry about. The bubbles that you should concern about are those inside the brake lines. Just bleed 300ml on each brake. That should take care of it.
Nicely done video, using it when it’s time to flush my brake fluid on my F30 335. Thanks!!
Glad it will help!
Should you do the clutch too?
That intro is sweet!! Teach me up man.. learn something new everyday I love it. Thanks for that my friend 👊
@@TheWrenchLab thanks my friend I am definitely going to check it out!
Superb instructional video
Thanks Bjrone! 🙏
Nice video, Great instructions...
Easy to follow along with. Well done.
Thanks for the video I will use this as a guide for my m140i. My brakes feel terrible. I will use your other guide and do an overhaul of discs pads and braided lines with fluid :) thanks
It should be a huge improvement! Happy projects! 💪 Thanks for checking out my channel!
Why do you take the basket out? Is it just to get at the lower fluid in the reservoir? I'm not sure it's worth the effort although that pick you showed does the trick nicely.
I did it so I could get the turkey baster inside the master cylinder to suck out old fluid along with any dirt and debris. That way I'm not pulling that junk all the way through the system when I flush the fluid. 😁
I am impressed
The best instructions thank you .
what size of piston do you have in the rear? also what disc size in the rear?
Duuuude I JUST picked a motive kit up for the Audi and I'm mad that I didn't buy one years ago lol. It makes it sooooo much easier than having someone pump the brakes or using those stupid vacuum style bleeders
EDIT: wow mine even leaks in the same spot; I forgot to go back and fix it. I guess this serves as a reminder!
Exactly! So simple now.
When doing this how is it that the power bleeder doesn't pump in the air from the air pocket in the pocket of the motive bleeder tube?
I talk about how the power bleeder works at the 7:00 min mark. As long as you make sure the bottle stays in position where the pick up straw is in the fluid, you're good.
@@TheWrenchLab thx!
Great video, thanks! I noticed that you didn't use ISTA/D to run the DSC pump after bleeding and re-bleed to ensure there are no bubbles in the pump. I've read some accounts that you need to do that to ensure a good bleed. Is there a reason you didn't? Is it not necessary to do?
I had intended to make a separate video for that because it's a very involved process. Getting the program, laptop, cables, etc. I will hit that in a video where I change the brakes lines out for stainless steel / braided lines, eventually.
I do think it's a necessary part of maintenance.
I also think that there's a risk/reward when it comes to DIY projects such as that. For those familiar with ISTA, that already have the tools, it might seem like no big deal. For others, it may be an absolutely daunting task... to use your laptop, a program you downloaded from some questionable website, and connect to your car with a cable you got on eBay...to do something you've never done.
I guess eventually you're tempted enough to touch your tongue but to a 9v battery. 🤣
@@TheWrenchLab I bit the bullet this weekend and tried it myself using ISTA. It was a lot easier than I expected, but a few things surprised me that you might want to know if you end up making a follow-up video. First, the recommended bleed order is actually left-rear, left-front, right-front, right-rear (different than any other car I've owned). Second, with ISTA it's still a two person job. You're supposed to pump the brakes while bleeding while the DSC pump is being cycled. Can't do it with just one person. You're right that it's a bit daunting, but it's not too bad.
Great looking out Justin! The different order 🤔 wonder if that is actually due to the length? I've only seen one video of someone actually using ISTA/IMPA do to the ABS module and they only did the rear brakes. I don't think they mentioned the order either. He left the bleed valve open and did the laptop and brake pedal all by himself. You don't recommend that?
@@TheWrenchLab In hindsight, that probably would have worked. The instructions in ISTA specifically state that you need two people, but I probably could have cracked the valve, then started the DSC pump, then pumped the brakes, then closed the valve. As it stands, ISTA runs through ~5 different steps (from memory as I did this yesterday, so might be wrong here)
Note, all this is after you've already bled the brakes the normal way. Then you go into ISTA and find the brake bleed procedure (I think it was under "Chassis"?)
1) cycle the pump with no valves cracked while pumping brakes (1 person job, I pumped the pedal while the DSC pump ran for ~15 seconds)
2) cycle the pump while bleeding left-rear brake and pumping pedal (2 person job, but you might be able to do it one person as you said. The pump only cycles for about 10-15 seconds so everything was just happening so quickly that I just skipped the "pump the pedal" part)
3) cycle the pump while bleeding the left front brake while pumping the brakes (same as step 2, I just skipped the pedal pumping part)
4) cycle the pump again with no valves cracked while pumping brakes (identical to step 1, so I pumped the brakes)
5) bleed all four corners again, with the DSC pump off, just to make sure you get all the new bubbles out
I should note that I've got a B58 and I think you have an N55, but I don't think that would affect this procedure at all.
W jakiej kolejnosci powinno sie prawidłowo odpowietrzac hamulce??od ktorego koła zaczynam po kolei
Very useful! Thank you
What if you realize that you’re out of fluid in the power bleeder. Do you have to restart if you realize too late? Also, if you need to add more fluid to it, any specific steps to take?
As long there's still fluid in your master cylinder you're just fine. When you refill the power bleeder, loosen the cap slowly (15:30 in the video) then add more fluid, put the cap back on and pump it up again. No biggie. 🤙👍
Great video Great piece of kit .. putting mines into bmw to get done . I feel I need to do I little double pump on the pedal to get the bite . Did you have the same issue before you changed the fluid ? Keep up the great work 😁
The brakes were absolutely horrible before I did the pads/rotors and fluid flush! I know exactly what you mean! I had no confidence in the brakes prior to this. They are so much better now. I still think they're far from perfect but it's definitely an improvement. It's as if the master cylinder doesn't build enough pressure. It's just not worth replacing on a street car. If this was a full out, race build, I'd replace it with a different, more powerful (and consistent) unit.
Hey man! Great video. I was just wondering when you add the new brake fluid, is that to the pump bottle only or do you top up some new fluid in the reservoir? Thanks
If the brake fluid is low during a regular fluid check, just add some to the brake master cylinder reservoir.
When bleeding the brakes, the pressurized bottle has a line that runs down into the bottom of the bottle, where the new brake fluid is. Pumping the bottle up to pressurize it, pressurizes the brake system, through the top of the master cylinder reservoir. So, when you loosen one of the bleeder valves on a brake caliper, that pressure forces brake fluid from the bottle into the top of the reservoir and into the brake lines.
It makes sense as I say it, but does that make sense to you? I probably over explained that.
With Mikey! Total sense, thanks so much for taking the time to explain man. Keep the videos coming 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
I've been totally slacking on making any videos lately. The old "I've been so busy" excuse. I have a bunch of ideas for my next few videos, I just need to start it up again!
Anything you'd like to see?
Thanks for checking out my channel by the way! 👍
Around 6:45 did you attach the pump to an empty reservoir tank or did you fill up the reservoir tank too?
Brake pedal feels smoochy, is this a sign to bleed the brake ?
What happens if there’s air in the line from the motive to the master reservoir?
That depends... If the master cylinder is empty, air could be getting pulled into the brake lines during the bleeding process. If that's the case, you need to bleed them again (all 4) to ensure there's no air in the lines. As tempting as it may be, I wouldn't recycle any of the fluid from the bleed bottles. Dirt and debris from the lines going directly into the master cylinder... No thanks.
As long as the master cylinder had enough fluid in it, to prevent air from getting pulled into the system, you're good. I assume you're asking because the level of fluid in the Motive "jug" got low or the bottle moved while you were bleeding them.
If you have any doubt, just do the whole thing over again, yes, it's time consuming and will cost you more $ for another couple bottles brake fluid. However, piece of mind, knowing you did an additional flush, will help you sleep at night. I look at it this way, getting to bleed the brakes a second time, is getting more experience with the process, which pays off big time when you start doing track days. Besides, a double flush, further insures the lines are purged and clean. 😁 You're just getting some extra quality time with your car.
Don't you need to purge the abs with ISTA?
The answer is yes, if you want to do it as per BMW spec. The DSC motor will whir at each corner bleed based off a step by step guide in the ISTA program.
How can you have bubble since you using motive power bleeder and the process are close and under pressure
The system will never be %100 sealed. Over time, air and moisture will eventually get in the system. It doesn't help that brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts water. Little by little, bubbles will find their way in which over time causes a spongy brake pedal. It's just part of necessary maintenance.
Is there an exact amount of fluid to flush at each corner?
No. Why do you ask?
Would this power bleeder fit other car master cylinders?
It absolutely will. You can even order just the screw on cap that'll fit other cars besides a BMW. 👍
I received a notification to bring the wife's car in for a "brake flush service" Is this a video that can show me how its done?
The only thing I didn't cover is flushing the abs module. Other than that, absolutely! 🤙
@@TheWrenchLab ABS?
The module that runs the Automatic Braking System.
what jack do you use to jack the front of the car?
The harbor freight jack I have isn't even available there anymore. Besides, it's not low or long enough to reach the front center jack point without pulling on my diy wood ramps.
My recommendation, measure the height of front lip on your car and the distance to the jack point, try and find the lowest and longest jack you can afford at harbor freight. It's easier to do that at an actual store because they have the jacks out on the floor to look at, and measure. 😉
@@TheWrenchLab 👍 thanks
What size tube do you use? 7/16 inch tube?
The tubing on the bleeder bottles is 3/8 i.d. I can't measure the power bleeder because the tubing is permanently clamped on the fittings.
With Mikey! Perfect. Thank for the quick responses . Bleeding my brakes next week.
That power bleeder was the best investment ever! Hope the video helps. 👍
Good vid bro thanks!!
Chuck Norris and his BMW.