This is what I have switched for my 1 acre food Forrest I am working on. I’ve tried so many different things and everything always helps but I want my gardens to look like the guy who developed this. I’m going to get the book too. It’s worth the knowledge.
I’ve tried this method several times and now have more questions than answers. IMO it makes more sense to simply take your leaf compost and bury it next to your crop. This will preserve the anaerobic process Not sure what specific microbes you are trying to capture but taking these “anaerobic “ microbes and really diluting them then applying them into the aerobic portion of the soil would render any benefit useless. It’s a hell of a lot of humping buckets of solution around and in the end I felt I did a really good job of watering versus microbial benefit So… I watched a fellow YT interview master Cho and his son on their farm in Korea. The eye opener was at the end where the master says they grow with compost and only use these concoctions when they think they are necessary. what???? I could not find what specific microbes I’m trying to encourage. Very frustrating Bottom line. I’ve gone back to using microbes in Recharge and Mikrobs to help improve the microbial life. Very easy to apply and you know exactly what you are getting. Saves the back and your time
There a soil scientists speeches on microbes on i believe the channel is Diego channel. Its long as heck and i havent finished it yet but has a lot of info in it
Awesome guide man! Clear and to the point! I believe you mentioned the microbes have to be diluted. How do these microbes differ from microbes in worm-castings which I was under the impression you cannot overdose on. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Because they eat all of the bacteria that have nutrients stored in them. Otherwise you wait for them to die. This is a slaughterhouse. I usually build my bacteria up during the week and at the end of the week I use this or protozoa soup, or something to that effect. The name is nutrient cycling.
So you have to use this solution right after it’s made? Looks easy enough to make. Because I would like to make some for a small indoor grow so I wouldn’t need alot
Anaerobic isnt good for your garden unless u also have the microbes that plants can use. The method isnt exactly TOTALLY anaerobic anyway as u would not have to use it while it has bubbles... May i suggest the series on microbes...i think diegos channel has the complete series by a soil microbia expert
Have you tried this without using a bag? Im a just curious why the bag is necessary. Why not just mix them then put them all in the water? It's annoying to purchase bags for a process that is suppose to be ultra low cost
I’m with you on the cost and it’s still low cost 🙏🏽. Give it a shot and see. This is the way that it is taught. The bag helps keep everything submerged vs floating at the top. Check out en.Jadam.kr it’s their website and has great info.
You can make sea salt potato smoothy and add it to the leaf mold water. You would still want to filter your smoothy through a fine piece of cloth for a quicker cultivation. Microbes have very tiny mouth. Squeezing by hand is just for the idea that you can do this in remote areas with no electricity. That is what Dr. Chio said in his lecture. I’ve only learned about JADAM recently. I am going to cultivate JMS tomorrow.
We have had a cold spring/early summer (zone 6 central Pennsylvania). I make my JMS in my garage. I have not had success this year because I have a difficult time keeping the water temperature at 68 degrees over night. I've made it three times YTD and had to pour it away because the microbes (bubbles) wouldn't form. I have switched to LAB for now. I can't seem to find a water heater on line that will maintain heated water of 68 degrees or more. Does anyone know where I can purchase a water heater?
When your diluting it 1 to 10 , what kind of water do you use? Rainwater or diluted city water because of the chorine in the city water system? Lmk thx
Now I have more questions than answers. Why use it, more information on how to use it, application rate/coverage area, method of application and more? You might think about doing another video. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. I talk about the rate, 1:10 dilution. Can be foliar applied or soil drenched. Coverage depends on how much more you dilute. And why use it? To increase bio diversity in your soil.
@@mindfullyrooted9710 Why is increasing biodiversity important? What does it do? How does it help me? How much will I need for my 10 acres of corn and 20 acres of soya? How will it help my clay soil? When do I use it foliar and when do drench? Can I add it to my irrigation system, and if so how often do I use it? You gave me a dilution ratio, but what is the application rate (you said you gave me the dilution, but then said that the application rate depends on the dilution rate, so I don't think you understand this yourself)? Why isn't this at the ag store if it is so good? How and why is this better than using animal manure? Is this better than compost and why/how? If you can't explain the how and why, it is probably just another feel good, tree huger BS scam (IMHO). [I just got the book JADAM Organic Farming online free. WOW is it expensive to buy it!]
I’m glad you got the book. It sounds like you have all the answers to your questions at your finger tips. Enjoy the read and I hope it clears things up for you. I appreciate the suggestions on making more content.
Check out Dr. Elaine Ingham’s Soil Food Web- might give you the answers you seek. Increased biodiversity in the soil apparently gives strength to a plant. Healthy plants can exude almost 40% of carbohydrate metabolites out of their roots, just to feed the microbes, esp bacteria. (If “spoon fed” fertilizers, an individual plant will respond with immediate lush growth, but will STOP emitting exudates out of their roots.) The bacteria that are attracted to the exudates are beneficial bacteria. They in turn cooperate with beneficial fungi. If beneficial life is absent in the root zone (rhizosohere), pathogenic fungi and bacteria dominate, and plant health declines, requiring more pesticides, etc. I like to think of the fertilizer/pesticide cycle, that people engage in, as a type of soilless system of sorts, where we have to watch and control everything, whereas if plants are supplied with compost/biochar/manure, they can fend for themselves.
@@squil35 spot on. Spoon feeding NPK too plants only produces lots of nothing. Conventionally grown food is plentiful and cheap but low in nutrition and we've been sold a lie for to long (80 yrs). Re gen agi and KNF is revolutionary and if this takes off then we will all be better for it. You have a deep understanding of soil biology.
Don’t know much, but I’d be careful using tap water. Around me, it’s chlorinated- and that might affect bacteria. Let the tap water sit exposed to the air for 48 hrs to off-gas
@@squil35 yes I agree. Salt is optional but not necessary and rain water would be much better. This is all new to me but I'm looking forward to making and using it this spring.
It’s a ratio so it can be anything you want. 1L to 100L. Or 1gal to 100gal. Etc. also that’s the starting point for JLF and make it stronger or weaker as needed. JMS is used 1:10.
Kahm yeast is not a type of mold, but rather an aerobic yeast that forms when the sugar is used up and the PH of the ferment drops because of the lactic acid formation. Certain vegetables are more prone to getting kahm yeast, particularly if they are sweeter like beets, carrots, and peppers. It tends to form more often on open-air ferments, when the temperature is too warm, or in a low salt brine. While using an airlock on your ferments can decrease the chances of molds forming on the surface because of less contact with oxygen, kahm yeast can still form. In other words, it's a micro-organism. Isn't that what you are trying to grow? I would use it and see what happens. Just do a small number of plants until you know it is working. You are better off doing an internet search, this guy makes good videos, but doesn't seem to be very knowledgeable.
@@robertwilkinson8115 thank you I have looked into on line but everything seems to always go back to brewing beer. Nothing about JMS or yeast in soil. Now that temps have warmed up I haven’t had a problem. My brews have come out very fungal dominant and that’s what I need for my orchard. But if it does happen again I will try it out on a small sample of plants.
This is what I have switched for my 1 acre food Forrest I am working on. I’ve tried so many different things and everything always helps but I want my gardens to look like the guy who developed this. I’m going to get the book too. It’s worth the knowledge.
How's it coming so far?
Liked your interview on FCP. I'm also an organic natural farmer here in SD. Found Master Cho back in late '16.
🙌🏽🙌🏽. Amazing. I found his stuff in 2018 I believe.
Nice! Just found it last year. I farm here in fallbrook too!
I’ve tried this method several times and now have more questions than answers.
IMO it makes more sense to simply take your leaf compost and bury it next to your crop. This will preserve the anaerobic process
Not sure what specific microbes you are trying to capture but taking these “anaerobic “ microbes and really diluting them then applying them into the aerobic portion of the soil would render any benefit useless.
It’s a hell of a lot of humping buckets of solution around and in the end I felt I did a really good job of watering versus microbial benefit
So… I watched a fellow YT interview master Cho and his son on their farm in Korea. The eye opener was at the end where the master says they grow with compost and only use these concoctions when they think they are necessary. what????
I could not find what specific microbes I’m trying to encourage. Very frustrating
Bottom line. I’ve gone back to using microbes in Recharge and Mikrobs to help improve the microbial life. Very easy to apply and you know exactly what you are getting. Saves the back and your time
There a soil scientists speeches on microbes on i believe the channel is Diego channel. Its long as heck and i havent finished it yet but has a lot of info in it
@@sislertx thank you. After viewing as much content as I have, my question remain the same
You are supposed to apply it to soil that has been thoroughly and deeply watered so that the microbes go down deep into the soil
Awesome guide man! Clear and to the point!
I believe you mentioned the microbes have to be diluted. How do these microbes differ from microbes in worm-castings which I was under the impression you cannot overdose on.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
This is an anaerobic process. And if poured undiluted can burn the roots. Not sure of the details behind it. 🙏🏽
Because they eat all of the bacteria that have nutrients stored in them. Otherwise you wait for them to die. This is a slaughterhouse. I usually build my bacteria up during the week and at the end of the week I use this or protozoa soup, or something to that effect.
The name is nutrient cycling.
So you have to use this solution right after it’s made? Looks easy enough to make. Because I would like to make some for a small indoor grow so I wouldn’t need alot
Yes use it up. It does not store well in liquid form.
great stuff
00
Anaerobic isnt good for your garden unless u also have the microbes that plants can use. The method isnt exactly TOTALLY anaerobic anyway as u would not have to use it while it has bubbles...
May i suggest the series on microbes...i think diegos channel has the complete series by a soil microbia expert
Have you tried this without using a bag? Im a just curious why the bag is necessary. Why not just mix them then put them all in the water?
It's annoying to purchase bags for a process that is suppose to be ultra low cost
I’m with you on the cost and it’s still low cost 🙏🏽. Give it a shot and see. This is the way that it is taught. The bag helps keep everything submerged vs floating at the top. Check out en.Jadam.kr it’s their website and has great info.
It's easier to tell what stage it's at if it's in bags.
I use mesh bags that I reuse. Can't get much cheaper than that.
An old grain sack, old T-shirt or an old towel. Think man!
Also an old sock will work
You can make sea salt potato smoothy and add it to the leaf mold water. You would still want to filter your smoothy through a fine piece of cloth for a quicker cultivation. Microbes have very tiny mouth. Squeezing by hand is just for the idea that you can do this in remote areas with no electricity. That is what Dr. Chio said in his lecture. I’ve only learned about JADAM recently. I am going to cultivate JMS tomorrow.
Can i just sink the soil and potato into the solution when making the JMS? Without hanging them?
You can if you’re just going to drench it in. Keeping the bag submerged with a rock helps tho
This solution goes from like 100 ciliates per field of view at 100x to absolutely none so don't let it go too long.
We have had a cold spring/early summer (zone 6 central Pennsylvania). I make my JMS in my garage. I have not had success this year because I have a difficult time keeping the water temperature at 68 degrees over night. I've made it three times YTD and had to pour it away because the microbes (bubbles) wouldn't form. I have switched to LAB for now. I can't seem to find a water heater on line that will maintain heated water of 68 degrees or more. Does anyone know where I can purchase a water heater?
I’m in the PNW and nights drop into 40s. I’ve made it successfully with allowing a longer time. Hope this helps 🙏🏽
Great sharing, however is it possible for us to store it in the fridge like EM up to 6 months?
I'm wondering the same. You'd have to make them go dormant
No, this is vest used asap
What solution is the one with plants and leaf mold ?
When your diluting it 1 to 10 , what kind of water do you use? Rainwater or diluted city water because of the chorine in the city water system? Lmk thx
Ideally rain water. I usually use city water and add humic acid to help with the chloramine and chlorine.
Now I have more questions than answers. Why use it, more information on how to use it, application rate/coverage area, method of application and more? You might think about doing another video. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. I talk about the rate, 1:10 dilution. Can be foliar applied or soil drenched. Coverage depends on how much more you dilute. And why use it? To increase bio diversity in your soil.
@@mindfullyrooted9710 Why is increasing biodiversity important? What does it do? How does it help me? How much will I need for my 10 acres of corn and 20 acres of soya? How will it help my clay soil? When do I use it foliar and when do drench? Can I add it to my irrigation system, and if so how often do I use it? You gave me a dilution ratio, but what is the application rate (you said you gave me the dilution, but then said that the application rate depends on the dilution rate, so I don't think you understand this yourself)? Why isn't this at the ag store if it is so good? How and why is this better than using animal manure? Is this better than compost and why/how? If you can't explain the how and why, it is probably just another feel good, tree huger BS scam (IMHO). [I just got the book JADAM Organic Farming online free. WOW is it expensive to buy it!]
I’m glad you got the book. It sounds like you have all the answers to your questions at your finger tips. Enjoy the read and I hope it clears things up for you. I appreciate the suggestions on making more content.
Check out Dr. Elaine Ingham’s Soil Food Web- might give you the answers you seek. Increased biodiversity in the soil apparently gives strength to a plant. Healthy plants can exude almost 40% of carbohydrate metabolites out of their roots, just to feed the microbes, esp bacteria. (If “spoon fed” fertilizers, an individual plant will respond with immediate lush growth, but will STOP emitting exudates out of their roots.) The bacteria that are attracted to the exudates are beneficial bacteria. They in turn cooperate with beneficial fungi. If beneficial life is absent in the root zone (rhizosohere), pathogenic fungi and bacteria dominate, and plant health declines, requiring more pesticides, etc. I like to think of the fertilizer/pesticide cycle, that people engage in, as a type of soilless system of sorts, where we have to watch and control everything, whereas if plants are supplied with compost/biochar/manure, they can fend for themselves.
@@squil35 spot on. Spoon feeding NPK too plants only produces lots of nothing. Conventionally grown food is plentiful and cheap but low in nutrition and we've been sold a lie for to long (80 yrs). Re gen agi and KNF is revolutionary and if this takes off then we will all be better for it. You have a deep understanding of soil biology.
how much sea salt would you add to tap water?
I believe 4grams to 1 gallon will give you 1:30 which is what you’re looking for.
Don’t know much, but I’d be careful using tap water. Around me, it’s chlorinated- and that might affect bacteria. Let the tap water sit exposed to the air for 48 hrs to off-gas
@@squil35 yes I agree. Salt is optional but not necessary and rain water would be much better. This is all new to me but I'm looking forward to making and using it this spring.
Do you find any result
What's the correct explanation for 1 into 100
It’s a ratio so it can be anything you want. 1L to 100L. Or 1gal to 100gal. Etc. also that’s the starting point for JLF and make it stronger or weaker as needed. JMS is used 1:10.
Have you ever had it go bad? My last two have failed and I’m not sure why. The last one I did developed kahm yeast film on top. Any ideas?
Kahm yeast is not a type of mold, but rather an aerobic yeast that forms when the sugar is used up and the PH of the ferment drops because of the lactic acid formation. Certain vegetables are more prone to getting kahm yeast, particularly if they are sweeter like beets, carrots, and peppers. It tends to form more often on open-air ferments, when the temperature is too warm, or in a low salt brine. While using an airlock on your ferments can decrease the chances of molds forming on the surface because of less contact with oxygen, kahm yeast can still form.
In other words, it's a micro-organism. Isn't that what you are trying to grow? I would use it and see what happens. Just do a small number of plants until you know it is working.
You are better off doing an internet search, this guy makes good videos, but doesn't seem to be very knowledgeable.
@@robertwilkinson8115 thank you I have looked into on line but everything seems to always go back to brewing beer. Nothing about JMS or yeast in soil. Now that temps have warmed up I haven’t had a problem. My brews have come out very fungal dominant and that’s what I need for my orchard. But if it does happen again I will try it out on a small sample of plants.
Pink salt is the best……
I'm a little over 24 hours in and my solution does not look any different