To any body who doubts my 1000 psi statement read them and weep ruclips.net/video/tKNY8PRsMtA/видео.html&lc=z22usvbp2y2kdpruuacdp434vadkqytww2ocuasw1t5w03c010c
yes that can happen , i am a professional and im not saying that to joke , i use these at work all the time , the trick is always alow the blade to drag never push and be ready to react to perceived pinches
When i tryed many times what worked for me in the end was compression fitting to grease fitting on each end. Fill with water n 3-4 shots of grease each end. Bends nice and pressure builds as you go so if the is a squish any where is puffs back out as you go. Very good channel
great tip:-) used it before. try these to improve soldering sucess, pre tinning inside of pipe ends before filling with water will make for a quicker and easier soldering job, Ensure you get full coverage, use plenty of flux and clean off leftover residue. Solder ends with flat bit of pipe in metal vice, with 1/4 - 1/2 inch of flat sticking out, will sink the heat much better than wet rag and allow solder to capillery into flat section exposed, again plenty of fresh flux. also Try warming it up before bending to increase internal pressure and hold shape better.
Awesome method. I had recently watched a method where a fellow ran paraffin wax through pre-heated copper(so the wax didn't solidify), cooled it down and formed his coils, then warmed it back up and pushed out the wax with a compressor. I thought that method was better than the salt method. But yours is better than the wax and salt method for sure. Thanks for sharing :)
This method was employed as far as I can recollect back in the 60's within the heating & plumbing industry in the UK. Protect those fingers when using a disc cutter!
Water is a great idea. I've always used glass beads out of my bead blasting cabinet, with no problem getting it back out, but water looks even easier. Thanks!
Great idea. Now I can Bend copper tubing to a coil without crushing it flat in some spots along the way. This will work great in my pipe assembly that I will put my copper tubing that will be heated by HHO Gas hot-water. Open sourcing teamwork is the greatest way for all of us to achieve alternative energy in team concept form.
I just did this and it worked well, I did seal /flatten the ends in a water barrel and no possibility of air inside also I need to make a coil for a steam project and I had a thought, would annealing the pipe first make it easier to bend or would it affect it
Glad to help John , the Diy community has helped me in the past so much i decided to give back and share all my discoveries, people like you make it worth it , you wouldn't believe the bad mouthing i get , now i just delete them i don't argue , i had some guy call me an idiot and that they was doing this 50 years ago ??? news to me because ive never seen any body do this , not one video exist that i can find
youtube is wide open like the old USENET, since the Subscribe function here does not mean the same so unsubscribe here is impossible and irrelevent, and there are no Block or Hide functions. USENET was hell. All we can do here is give a sapper a thumbs down, or not take any comments at all. Have a thick skin and strong stomach, and help the original poster by sapping his sappers. Hey, they used to kill inventors. Now they just kill naturopaths, investigators(Seth Rich murderred in police custody according to his surgeon), Whisenant the lawyer, unarmed black people in handcuffs, vets who killed muslims("Awan Tricare"), children of vets("Awan carfentanil Webb") who killed muslims.
I love this. I made some specially shaped tube to be a hot water coil in my kitchen stove. I used a tube bending tool but this limited the radius of curvature to about 8 cm which diminished the number of tubes that I could fit. With this technique I could have used tighter bends and hence fitted more surface area. Brilliant idea. Thanks.
Thank you very much for sharing this. While not as elegant as your approach, I might try soldering fittings on both ends of the tube before bending (for a grease fitting on one end, and a plug on the other) and filling the tube with grease prior to bending. Again, not as elegant and simple as your approach, but might produce different results because grease is not compressible like water and a standard grease gun can put out a tremendous amount of pressure. Could be fun to try this approach. Naturally, I'd have to rinse with a solvent.
With a soldered on high pressure valve you could put the water in under hydraulic pressure and then close the valve. With no compressible air in it it will not go flat even in a tight bend. The copper will stretch on the outside and shrink on the inside of the tube. Because it has nowhere else to go.
Thanks john , its a project i was working on that got to expensive to Finnish, i was trying to build a better gasfier . i may try again some day . The idea of using useless wood scraps to run a engine is pretty valuable .
Thanks for showing this! I've been using sand packing for coiling 3/4inch copper tube worm condenser coils for my still - and you are right - it was a pain in the butt to extract the sand for even a 5m length. Will definitely try your water method!
Been using that technique for years, the flattened area is good as it allows a tiny bit of air in side to compress so you don't burst open the tube when forming the bends or coils, (we use this for replacing oil and air lines on production machinery )
What's your coil diameter, and what did you wrap it around? I have chillers needing new coils that will be about 15" OD, and about 9" tall using 1/2" ID soft copper. So there's about 30ft in each coil. Ideas?
THAT WAS EXTREMELY HELPFUL. THANK YOU! i AM GOING TO FILL THE END OF THE TUBE WITH AN EPOXY PASTE GLUE AND SEE IF THAT WILL WORK. SOLDER IS QUICKER BUT I LACK THAT SO I WILL TRY A SUBSTITUTE.
That usually only works for larger diameter tubes, I've tried bending 1/4 inch copper tubing with salt and sand and it still flattened on really tight coils. Heating it does help though.
this is a good system, when making trumpets by hand I know they use a mix of dish soap and water, once "frozen" it's easy to form without collapsing and they don't have to seal the ends. just another tool for the methodology arsenal.
I'll tell you what I tried. Got some fine sand from a pile. Dried it out using a stove. Dead dry. Capped 1 end of a 4' piece of 1/2" type M copper pipe,filled it to the top with sand,then capped it. Granted, I had to heat the pipe, but I wrapped it around a piece of 11/2" galvanized pipe. No distortion.
yes large short pipes work fine with sand salt or even sugar but for smaller diameter very long pipes , it just takes to long to fill and remove the medium used
Came up with the same idea back in Okinawa in 2002 trying to bend large diameter thin wall aluminum tubing. Except we used a portable hydraulic pump so we could vary the pressure as we bent. Pretty sure it's wasn't NAVAIR approved, but it worked.
Cool what kind of pressure did it take or was your pump not gauged ? , can you tell me if the pressure raised during the bend ? i was thinking of connecting a high pressure gauge to a coil of tubing to see how high the pressure gets during the bend.
NOBOX7 The pump was a hand pump used to refill our HCT-10, but we plugged a gauge in-line. Pressure depended the degree of the bend and on the diameter of the tubing, with less pressure for larger. Usually 700-1000psi. Burst tubes weren't uncommon, but we didn't have the mandrels we needed so no choice. Sometimes the pressure would raise, but usually it dropped as we bent, so we'd have one or two guys bending and another on the pump.
You just saved me a ton of work! I convinced myself water would never work....... guess I'm not as smart as I think I am. Thank you so much for posting. Fantastic idea. :)
Hello friend , you must add soap to the water for best results , from what i have found the actual formula is a secret but i just add a large amount of dishsoap and it seems to work , you want the water to change color due to the amount of soap
research indicates you want it to turn into custard , so its like puddy , ice alone will allow kinks becuase it will shatter into powder , water alone does work extreamly well for most applications but for extream bends you needs "soap puddy "
@@NOBOX7 Thanks for sharing that. "Soap puddy" it is then. LOL Can't wait to check out your other videos. Maybe this old dog can learn some new tricks. Have a great day nobox, and thanks again for the advice.
I placed the ends of the tubing that need to be soldered in a bench vise and tightened it firmly. The vise acted like a heat sink and I had no trouble soldering the ends.
You can cap the ends with compression fittings, using a check valve and Schrader valve on the opposite end and small pressure washer add compressed water through the check valve while releasing any air through the schrader valve Whole lot easier
Great idea! Have you ever tried dry sand instead of water or salt (heat the sand first to drive out any moisture)? Then just tap on the tube to empty the sand and flush with water afterwards to remove any remaining sand dust.
I have and the problem is that in large length small diameter tubes , its still very time consuming to remove. you see what happens is the sand or salt becomes crushed like a pill kinda like how aspirin pills are made so the prospect of just shaking the grains out is just not possible .I spent an entire day trying to clear a coil and i will never ever use a solid medium again . Dont get me wrong hourglass sand may work but it would still take to long , water is seconds not minutes not hours
Yeah, I can see how the "pill" effect might happen, especially with smaller inside diameter tubing. Hmm, with your water technique, I wonder if a short piece of rubber band was placed into the end of the tube, before crushing and folding it over, might seal against leaking (with the rubber being squeezed and smashed inside the folded area)?
Wayne Ashby great idea that would bypass the soldering kinda like the solder free plumbing fittings . if you dont solder the ends it still works it just gives you a flattened profile which is actual better for heat exchange coils that rap around a tube thats to be heated or cooled
Right, no soldering! Another possible similar sealing method might be to melt some hot glue and spread a coating of it inside the tubing ends with a Q-tip, toothpick or equivalent before filling the tube with water and folding the ends over to create a durable water-tight seal before hydro-forming. That would probably be even better than using a rubber band to seal the ends!
Wayne Ashby good one . i think the hot glue idea would be perfect , soldering is very tricky . i am definitely gonna try your idea , i may post a vid titled " wayne Ashby solution "
you can rap a coil around a screw driver with this method and maybe even thinner , as for the wall thickness i dont no , the 1000 psi was an educated guess , in the future i may connect a gauge to find out
glad it worked for you , i didnt have any valves on hand at the time of this video and they cost around $5 apiece so i decided to try the solder , it is not easy to do , you cannot skip steps , any way thanks for sharing your success
FLARE THE ENDS! That's right, slide a nut on, flare the ends, put your valves on and syphon water before closing the valves. Simply cut the flares off the ends or leave them on.
Sorry, but you missed my point; NO SOLDERING is involved when you flare. That means, no potential of water spray in your eyes. No crimping, no hammering, no blow torch and no heat-sink.After bending, you can cut the flare off and retrieve your nut for re-use on the next piece. Using solder is simply, 'going in the wrong direction'.
it should , the aluminum may crack but it should work just fine . maybe rap the coil on something a little smaller then the size your shooting for and it will expand outward to its relaxed position
i was thinking about flaring the end and using a cap, and using compressed air to like 10 or 20 psi with a check valve. And then a pressure releif valve set to like 50 psi.....
you have to use a syphon to get water flowing threw the pipe , or a pump and as water is flowing i cut the pipe using open end cutters , this trapps the water leafing no air gaps
does it not affect the remaining water if the pipe is used ?? can the water be completely clean in the pipe ?? and how do you clean the remaining water in the pipe ?? apologize in advance 🙏🙏 I don't understand English ,, I only understand what's in this video ... I use google translate to ask you 🙏🙏 I'm from Indonesia, please ANSWER 🙏🙏 thank you
To be honest i can't tell you yes to a question that serious , however it is my opinion that it would be ok to use this method for bending copper and stainless steel brake lines as these all can be bent with tubing benders. So i would say that because using a bender is ok that this process should be safe as well
You mentioned that the pressure built up in the tube is probably 1,000psi, but if that were the case then at 2:55 when you cut it open wouldn't water spray everywhere due to the pressure? And solder only has a pressure rating of 200psi, so it has to be lower than that otherwise the solder wouldn't hold. And some of the compression valves I looked at have up to about a 150psi rating (not 35 as mentioned in the video). So using a compression valve without soldering it on will give you about 75% of the strength, with much less work.
Why would the pressure be relieved after bending? It has nowhere to go. If you bend the tube and it compresses the walls and increases the pressure, it would stay that way until you relieve the pressure by cutting off the end. And the solder would still pop off with 1000psi since it only has a holding strength of about 200psi. And he said he's had that happen a few times, but the other times where the solder doesn't pop off the pressure had to have stayed below that.
Well if we're going to talk about the crimps preventing all the pressure from pushing against the solder, then why does it even matter what the psi is inside of the tube when all that matters is the psi pushing at the ends? If solder has a 200psi rating, and a compression fitting has one of 150, I'd imagine they would hold pretty similar maximum pressures without having to solder the fitting on. That's all I'm getting at.
its not air pressure so no it wouldn't spray the way you think and yes i was wrong about the 35 psi but ive used them enough to no they suck and usually leak at pressures that low also on the wall at menards they recomend flared fitting fore pressure above 35 psi . at the end of the video i do a test using only bent pipe and it leaks so i still do not trust compression fittings . and solder used in this way can hold way more then 200 psi , i currently have videos with tubing full of acetone working at these pressures and every time ive had to solder the compression fittings , text book info and application experience are not the same thing . i have video proof , look at my heat engine videos . solder holds up to 2000 psi on small tubing and maybe hire
solder has a pressure rating far beyond 200 psi on tubes this side , if you dont believe me watch my hydrothermic videos and heat engine videos , if you e ever use compression fittings in practise you will learn the hard way they are not good for pressure over 35 psi , they are very finicky and if not properly torqued they leak every time , flared fittings are better but if you get some lab grade or industrial grade compression fittings then yes they will work every time also solder is super cheap compression fittings with a valve can cost up to $5 so again its a bad idea but be my guest , do it your way . dont think im beating you up on this i just strongly disagree that compression fittings are good for this application
Have you tried using compressed air. You wind the pipe arround the copper, and not the copper arround the pipe. That way you can hold on to your copper and have it connected to air or water supply throughout the entire process.
NOBOX7, in refrigeration we use a tool called a pinch-off tool to achieve a temporary seal to braze copper lines under pressure. Would be a good way for you to do your initial pinch before solder. Made by Yellow Jacket and Imperial Tools.
There are two types. One looks like a pair of vice grips, one looks like a flaring block. The vice grip type don't work well. The flare block type allow you to reopen the tube. Thanks for the great video.
have you tried pre-tinning the ends by any chance? i think if you pre-tin the ends and then fill with water and flatten out like you did you can achieve a better solder joint on the ends.
no i haven't i use acid core solder which does not require tinning but it may possibly help , as this is a super fast job , you have 5 seconds in and out or steam develops and blows the joint out , compression fittings on each end works better but i didn't have any at the time and this is cheaper
you guys are referring to flared fittings or lab grade compression fittings , menards or lowes or any other store for that matter does not sell high pressure compression fittings , every time ive used them they leak almost all the time . i was referring to menards grade brass compression fittings , flared fittings can handle thousands of psi. i will admit i do not remember where i read that but i think i seen that figure at menards on the wall above the fittings
@@NOBOX7 Common peak city water pressure in UK, at least where I lived in Yorkshire, was 200 PSI and brass compression fittings were commonly used especially on toilet tanks where valve service could be an issue.
Does tapping the inside and putting a screw in work? Maybe with a tight steel sleeve to get a little extra tension without stretching and some thread tape? You can probably find a flare or compression fitting that will hold the pressure, I know swagelok-type ones would but you need new swage seals each time.
sand is much easier and a hell of a lot safer. if anyone does not use the right amount of a heat barrier and heat gets to the water, they will get a face full of steam and molten solder. Just crimp, fill with sand, crimp the other end and go!
do you have any idea how long it takes to put sand in a 50 ft copper tube ? any idea how long it takes to get it out ? the pressure crushes the sand into a pill it does not just flow out.
I paid my college bills by doing HVAC installs. There are also specialty tools for such bends - they look like tightly wound springs, which constrain the tube from the outside. Even tho each tech had a set on their truck, we hardly ever used that method, because it was always a pain to get them off the copper.When i was being trained, my super, who was an AC guy for 15 years, , showed me the sand routine. Nearly everyone i worked with would opt for the sand, i can't remember anyone using the spring coils. I have used the sand method many times, with 50' coils ,100' coils and with rigid pipe. Copper coils in AC ranged from 1/4 to 3/4" , so i can't speak to larger diameters. Never had much problem getting out the sand- and i needed to be damn sure it was out as a few stray grains of sand could really incapacitate the freon diffuser at the cold end of the install or the compressor at the hot end . To ensure no residue would remain, a few blasts from a portable air compressor usually did the trick. I never had a seized compressor or clogged diffuser due to sand. The reason i objected to your water idea, was that i also had to braze these coils to withstand freon pressures of 300psi - regular sweating like what is the typical plumbing requirement won't handle freon. Because of that, I am very familiar with how rapid the heat transfer of copper really is, and how tricky it can be to block heat from traveling. We used specialty high temp gels, not just a wet rag, and even then, if the line had too much built up moisture, it would flash to steam and spit molten silver solder in your face. I'm not trying to troll you, or just be a dick - i genuinely think the water idea has some possibly dangerous drawbacks, and wanted to state my caveats for anyone who may not be as experienced, and might injure themselves.
hello friend , the practice works better with frozen extremely soapy water , make a custard as they say and it will act as puddy to give you the best bend
I've never made a coil before but I need one for a project I'm working on so I'm glad I found this video. Can you explain to me why you couldn't flush the salt out with water? Does the bending do something to it that I'm missing? Thanks again for the video!
yes the salt crushes it , kinda like making a pill buy pressing powder in a hydrolic press , i have used salt for years and had many problems getting it out , i even put a coil in a pot of boiling water for hours then i tried to blow it out with high pressure air , i swore to never ever use salt again , i even tried to vibrate it out using high magnitude high frequency vibrations , don't do it bro don't waist your time , if you hammer the ends good enough you don't have to solder them
Just one more quick question. What makes this better than ice in your opinion? I ask because I live way up north and we're getting between minus 20 to minus 40C weather depending on the day so freezing the water takes minutes (as you can imagine). Thanks again!
wax is a bad idea , it would be very hard to get it out completely, you could just buy some needle valves for each end but you cant have any air in the line or leaks or the process doesn't work well
They make a low temp alloy that use use to fill tubes with, for coiling. Just a soft flmwe melts it out pretty clean. It seems he goes through a lot of trouble just to coil copper. Un-annealed copper coils without filling!
Ever thought of capping the ends with compression joints? Totally water tight even at the pressures generated when coiling, and apart from the olives are reusable and cheap.
great idea sir , during the filming of this video i didnt have any on hand , i do mention that in the end of the video but i still appreciate your input and i just learned the word olive so thanks man, never herd them called that before . i dont usually watch videos all the way threw either so i hope i dont sound like a smart ass
Instead of soldering the end why not use some push to connect fittings with a shut off valve on both ends and a garden hose attachment? Then all you do is turn the hose on and let it run long enough through the copper tubing until you know there's no air pockets trapped inside the line and then shut off the end opposite the garden hose attachment first and then shut off the second valve and disconnect from the garden hose and you should have the line completely filled and ready to bend. Afterwards just use the disconnect tool to take the push to connect fittings off so they can be reused
Hey brother just so you know , a 3/4 pipe might not experience the "pill" ever see how they make pills ? like asperin ? thats what happens to the salt , it becomes a salt pill and will not come out . but a 3/4 pipe i have never done so i dont no if it is necessary. you must do some pre kinks to stretch the pipe , the coper is very soft until stretched or bent
Actually freind these devices are being fabricated to run charcoal gasifiers using a process called the Boudouard reaction and the water gas reaction . The device turns Co2 and steam into hydrogen and carbon monoxide to fuel a generator
Thank you for your explanation! wish you the best in your endeavors! may I ask why don't you flatten the tube and then coil it??? then you can just turn around and use a bit of water pressure to expand it just enough to meet your needs??
yes it will but the thing is believe it or not oil is way more compressible then water , if you dont believe me look up bulk modulus of liquids. i even have videos of oil and acetone being compressed by a heat engine i built
thanks ,cool . cool, to york engine have to look it up . yes i know about hydraulics systems from work just did know if there was enough PSI. or oil to work
just so you no i mentioned using water instead of oil because even though people don't believe me when i tell them this but oil is far more compressible then water , i am very familiar with the mathematics and equations of this subject and despite popular opinion even water is compressible it is the least compressible of all fluids though . bulk modulus is the term used to describe the compressibility of fluids . the reason hydraulic fluids are water based is because water is less compressible then pure oil and hydraulic equipment suffers compression losses when using just pure oil , so if your gonna bend a long coil of tubing the oil would begin to compress just a little and not give you as good of a bend
Drill a hole in your forming pipe to hold one end of the pipe before you coil it, file it oval shaped , makes life easier, secondly to get sand or salt out of the pipe just use a airline on a compressor, comes out in seconds.....when you bend it on the former hold the pipe nearer the former, your hand is about 10 inches away from the former, its needs to be a lot closer to get a tighter fit, also you could anneal the pipe before you fill and seal it, copper age hardens with time and makes it difficult to form, also after you have formed it , it would have work hardened, I use copper all the time in air con and in making jewellery. looks good though.
Not the slightest bit true , i can tell you never made a long coil , my friend salt is a no go , it turns into a huge pill like an asperin and it will not come out for hours of work
@@NOBOX7 I use an air line when I do my coils, I only use fine dry silver sand ( I heat it in the oven before hand to dry it) and not salt simply as salt will compact when humid, once i have done the coil i cut of the two ends and put my air line on it, I have made a solder fitting that fits on the pipe at one end and just turn on the compressor full pressure and tap the coil with a piece of wood and the sand comes out in about 1 minute. It really does work, I have not tried the water method but after seeing your video i will give it a try. The only thing is I dont do is coils smaller than 2 inches as I make them for induction heaters, stills and other items, maybe thats why the sand comes out easier. Larger coil? The hole i was referring to is a slot or large hole at the start of the former and that can hold the first part of the pipe for you to aid the first coil to be tight.I use a jubilee clip to hold it in place, I form mine round pieces of wood that I have turned on my lathe and have cut a slot into , the only other thing I do is put some linseed oil on the wood before forming and that seems to help it slide round. I have a large metal lathe at home and have put that on a very slow speed, locked a piece of pie into the chuck end and formed a pipe around a 2 inch former , its a bit scary as even on the slowest speed the lathe is still a bit to quick for my liking, I will try and do a video next time I do one to show you what I do. Many thanks for yours.
Have you ever bent a one inch hard copper pipe? We want to make our 'copper' shower curtain to match all the copper piping in our 'old' bathroom. thanks, julie
actually i want to make essential oil distiller i need best condenser to cool steam. i have 2 copper pipes one is 12mm and 2nd is 6mm i want to put 6mm pipe in 12mm pipe and make a coil, seal 12mm pipe from both end and make holes on both end of 12mm pipe for cool water flow and my steam passes through 6mm pipe. (sorry for my bad English)
Bhai BhaiKhurram i see , well to do that i dont think you would need a zchiller , small condensers are very powerful , and work i have done in the past i i made one from 1 inch copper pipe and drilled 9 holes in the end capps then i inserted 9 1/8 inch copper tubes in the holes then i solderd end caps over the end caps that contained the tubes and this is the place the cold water would be pumped threw , then i connected hoses to the top and bottom of the 1 inch pipe and this device was only 1 foot long but it would condense huge amounts of steam , i connected it to my garden hose and turned it on low and i was amazed at how such a small condensor could liquefy so much steam
ooooh that,s good can you share picture of this ??? (bhaikhurram@gmail.com) i pick the idea from this picture for distillation here is the link of picture s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/56/60/ce/5660ceade5a87d4ae4c19d0b1908b462.gif now i have these pipes in 8ft length if i make coil and use your method work it ????
its hard to say , the pressure during the bend is very high , i will soon do a video featuring a pressure gauge connected to a coil being bent . I think the pressure is at least 500 psi but i bet a small sharkbite would hold that much pressure.
You could anneal the copper. And instead of using a torch to solder, use an electric soldering iron or an actual soldering copper. Using 50/50 solder with flux. Minimal heat should do the the job without creating steam.
Thanks for the vid. I'm going to do my first pipe coil that I'm going to use as a DIY cooler for a long range rifle barrel between mag's. Want to try a double helix using two sized pipes to wrap around. I'm so glad to have seen your post. Super nice. Wasn't sure how to get the salt out of a small copper line. Using 1/4 inch tubing and thought about putting a compression fitting on one end but not sure how that would work. This was a good Google how to. Thanks.
you could tap both ends, put a screw in one end, fill it up, put a screw on the other end closing the tube.. that would certainly be the easiest thing to do.
Never use a grinder with out the guard. I know you'll say it was in my way. Just for starters . If some nut job drops it and not tell you it can blow up in your face. Good luck with it was in my way. They sell stiches by the yard.
To any body who doubts my 1000 psi statement read them and weep ruclips.net/video/tKNY8PRsMtA/видео.html&lc=z22usvbp2y2kdpruuacdp434vadkqytww2ocuasw1t5w03c010c
Perfect! I would use frozen soapy water instead of salt, it works well enough. Something like this, but for stainless would be a killer tek.
I'm doing an engineering prioject with copper coils for school and I really appreciate the fact you posted this!
I used to cut with a grinder just like you until couple months ago when it "jumped" on my thumb and cut down almost to my bone. It hurt.
yes that can happen , i am a professional and im not saying that to joke , i use these at work all the time , the trick is always alow the blade to drag never push and be ready to react to perceived pinches
im use grinder to cut my nail,
@@bagus3l real men always do
@@NOBOX7 Professional ??? The ER I worked in had many professional machinist, carpenters...ect. come in for visits all the time...
When i tryed many times what worked for me in the end was compression fitting to grease fitting on each end. Fill with water n 3-4 shots of grease each end. Bends nice and pressure builds as you go so if the is a squish any where is puffs back out as you go. Very good channel
great tip:-) used it before.
try these to improve soldering sucess,
pre tinning inside of pipe ends before filling with water will make for a quicker and easier soldering job, Ensure you get full coverage, use plenty of flux and clean off leftover residue.
Solder ends with flat bit of pipe in metal vice, with 1/4 - 1/2 inch of flat sticking out, will sink the heat much better than wet rag and allow solder to capillery into flat section exposed, again plenty of fresh flux.
also Try warming it up before bending to increase internal pressure and hold shape better.
Awesome method. I had recently watched a method where a fellow ran paraffin wax through pre-heated copper(so the wax didn't solidify), cooled it down and formed his coils, then warmed it back up and pushed out the wax with a compressor. I thought that method was better than the salt method. But yours is better than the wax and salt method for sure. Thanks for sharing :)
This method was employed as far as I can recollect back in the 60's within the heating & plumbing industry in the UK. Protect those fingers when using a disc cutter!
Water is a great idea. I've always used glass beads out of my bead blasting cabinet, with no problem getting it back out, but water looks even easier. Thanks!
Wow you sir are a genius. So glad I saw this before attempting anything.
Glad i could help friend . please be careful , if you cant solder the ends as i did you can use compression fittings and end caps
Great idea. Now I can Bend copper tubing to a coil without crushing it flat in some spots along the way. This will work great in my pipe assembly that I will put my copper tubing that will be heated by HHO Gas hot-water. Open sourcing teamwork is the greatest way for all of us to achieve alternative energy in team concept form.
I just did this and it worked well, I did seal /flatten the ends in a water barrel and no possibility of air inside also I need to make a coil for a steam project and I had a thought, would annealing the pipe first make it easier to bend or would it affect it
WOW, that's what i was looking for. I knew I need to fill it with something, but didn't know water will do. Thank you for your instructions. !!!
Thank you for taking the time to share this - much appreciated
Glad to help John , the Diy community has helped me in the past so much i decided to give back and share all my discoveries, people like you make it worth it , you wouldn't believe the bad mouthing i get , now i just delete them i don't argue , i had some guy call me an idiot and that they was doing this 50 years ago ??? news to me because ive never seen any body do this , not one video exist that i can find
youtube is wide open like the old USENET, since the Subscribe function here does not mean the same so unsubscribe here is impossible and irrelevent, and there are no Block or Hide functions. USENET was hell. All we can do here is give a sapper a thumbs down, or not take any comments at all. Have a thick skin and strong stomach, and help the original poster by sapping his sappers. Hey, they used to kill inventors. Now they just kill naturopaths, investigators(Seth Rich murderred in police custody according to his surgeon), Whisenant the lawyer, unarmed black people in handcuffs, vets who killed muslims("Awan Tricare"), children of vets("Awan carfentanil Webb") who killed muslims.
I love this. I made some specially shaped tube to be a hot water coil in my kitchen stove. I used a tube bending tool but this limited the radius of curvature to about 8 cm which diminished the number of tubes that I could fit. With this technique I could have used tighter bends and hence fitted more surface area. Brilliant idea. Thanks.
Thank you very much for sharing this. While not as elegant as your approach, I might try soldering fittings on both ends of the tube before bending (for a grease fitting on one end, and a plug on the other) and filling the tube with grease prior to bending. Again, not as elegant and simple as your approach, but might produce different results because grease is not compressible like water and a standard grease gun can put out a tremendous amount of pressure. Could be fun to try this approach. Naturally, I'd have to rinse with a solvent.
With a soldered on high pressure valve you could put the water in under hydraulic pressure and then close the valve. With no compressible air in it it will not go flat even in a tight bend. The copper will stretch on the outside and shrink on the inside of the tube. Because it has nowhere else to go.
ถ้าTractor Wrangler
i love all the chemistry looking and ohms law looking equations on ur scrap paper in the background
Thanks john , its a project i was working on that got to expensive to Finnish, i was trying to build a better gasfier . i may try again some day . The idea of using useless wood scraps to run a engine is pretty valuable .
Use Muntz metal
Thanks for showing this!
I've been using sand packing for coiling 3/4inch copper tube worm condenser coils for my still - and you are right - it was a pain in the butt to extract the sand for even a 5m length.
Will definitely try your water method!
I no your pain brother thats why i posted , it took me all day to get salt out of a 1/8" x 10' coil one time , it was so depressing
Been using that technique for years, the flattened area is good as it allows a tiny bit of air in side to compress so you don't burst open the tube when forming the bends or coils, (we use this for replacing oil and air lines on production machinery )
yeah that's kinda cool how thew use a wire hanger to bend the shape of the pipe then they use it to bend the actual pipe shape
What's your coil diameter, and what did you wrap it around? I have chillers needing new coils that will be about 15" OD, and about 9" tall using 1/2" ID soft copper. So there's about 30ft in each coil. Ideas?
you might be able to hand form them if they're that big
THAT WAS EXTREMELY HELPFUL. THANK YOU! i AM GOING TO FILL THE END OF THE TUBE WITH AN EPOXY PASTE GLUE AND SEE IF THAT WILL WORK. SOLDER IS QUICKER BUT I LACK THAT SO I WILL TRY A SUBSTITUTE.
Smart and just as I’m writing this he comes up with the valve...extra smart
Thanks mate, thats a really interesting way of making bends and coils, cheers
Does it work with larger diamater pipe
Total genius Please talk more about your flash boilers? Seemed like an interesting proyect!
as soon as i have time friend , im so over worked these days i can barely do my laundry
Thanks again. My project this weekend.
I do appreciate the top shelf explanation and vid.
Wish they were all this way on the web.
You just saved me so much time and addiction! Wish I could post you a picture of mine
This is absolutely brilliant. Thanks so much for sharing this!
When I was in plumbing we did similar with heavy steel pipe. We used DRY sand and plugged the ends . Red hot pipe will bend with out creasing.
That usually only works for larger diameter tubes, I've tried bending 1/4 inch copper tubing with salt and sand and it still flattened on really tight coils. Heating it does help though.
This is an absolutely fabulous technique. And the salt is a nightmare, I gave up. Then I ran into this video. Wow... Thank you.
ok be carfull , i suggest just bying 2 needle valves with compression fittings so you can just turn the valves to open and close
Try using any duel Ferrule tube fitting end cap. Will hold 6000 or more PSIG. Cut the ferrules off when done
this is a good system, when making trumpets by hand I know they use a mix of dish soap and water, once "frozen" it's easy to form without collapsing and they don't have to seal the ends.
just another tool for the methodology arsenal.
good idea to freeze it , i seen a guy in russia do this but i decide " i need it now "
Good idea!
Daniel Mallett
I'll tell you what I tried. Got some fine sand from a pile. Dried it out using a stove. Dead dry. Capped 1 end of a 4' piece of 1/2" type M copper pipe,filled it to the top with sand,then capped it. Granted, I had to heat the pipe, but I wrapped it around a piece of 11/2" galvanized pipe. No distortion.
yes large short pipes work fine with sand salt or even sugar but for smaller diameter very long pipes , it just takes to long to fill and remove the medium used
Came up with the same idea back in Okinawa in 2002 trying to bend large diameter thin wall aluminum tubing. Except we used a portable hydraulic pump so we could vary the pressure as we bent. Pretty sure it's wasn't NAVAIR approved, but it worked.
Cool what kind of pressure did it take or was your pump not gauged ? , can you tell me if the pressure raised during the bend ? i was thinking of connecting a high pressure gauge to a coil of tubing to see how high the pressure gets during the bend.
NOBOX7
The pump was a hand pump used to refill our HCT-10, but we plugged a gauge in-line. Pressure depended the degree of the bend and on the diameter of the tubing, with less pressure for larger. Usually 700-1000psi.
Burst tubes weren't uncommon, but we didn't have the mandrels we needed so no choice.
Sometimes the pressure would raise, but usually it dropped as we bent, so we'd have one or two guys bending and another on the pump.
What are you working on that NAVAIR would come into play?
Huey, Cobras, 46's and 53's mostly. Occasionally some fixed wing stuff.
You just saved me a ton of work! I convinced myself water would never work....... guess I'm not as smart as I think I am. Thank you so much for posting. Fantastic idea. :)
Hello friend , you must add soap to the water for best results , from what i have found the actual formula is a secret but i just add a large amount of dishsoap and it seems to work , you want the water to change color due to the amount of soap
research indicates you want it to turn into custard , so its like puddy , ice alone will allow kinks becuase it will shatter into powder , water alone does work extreamly well for most applications but for extream bends you needs "soap puddy "
@@NOBOX7 Good timing. Just having a coffee before my bending begins. Thanks a million.
@@NOBOX7 Thanks for sharing that. "Soap puddy" it is then. LOL Can't wait to check out your other videos. Maybe this old dog can learn some new tricks. Have a great day nobox, and thanks again for the advice.
I don't need one now but I want to make one, just looks cool!
I placed the ends of the tubing that need to be soldered in a bench vise and tightened it firmly. The vise acted like a heat sink and I had no trouble soldering the ends.
Brilliant! Thank you very much for the video. I am definitely going to try it. Will save my a lot of time.
I wonder if fill out a copper pipe with grease under pressure, possible it will keep its shape better than just using water?
You can cap the ends with compression fittings, using a check valve and Schrader valve on the opposite end and small pressure washer add compressed water through the check valve while releasing any air through the schrader valve
Whole lot easier
Yes i use compression fittings now . i have videos of using a grease gun to add the pressure
SHARING IS CARING!! Thanks for sharing your information!
Great idea! Have you ever tried dry sand instead of water or salt (heat the sand first to drive out any moisture)? Then just tap on the tube to empty the sand and flush with water afterwards to remove any remaining sand dust.
I have and the problem is that in large length small diameter tubes , its still very time consuming to remove. you see what happens is the sand or salt becomes crushed like a pill kinda like how aspirin pills are made so the prospect of just shaking the grains out is just not possible .I spent an entire day trying to clear a coil and i will never ever use a solid medium again . Dont get me wrong hourglass sand may work but it would still take to long , water is seconds not minutes not hours
Yeah, I can see how the "pill" effect might happen, especially with smaller inside diameter tubing. Hmm, with your water technique, I wonder if a short piece of rubber band was placed into the end of the tube, before crushing and folding it over, might seal against leaking (with the rubber being squeezed and smashed inside the folded area)?
Wayne Ashby great idea that would bypass the soldering kinda like the solder free plumbing fittings . if you dont solder the ends it still works it just gives you a flattened profile which is actual better for heat exchange coils that rap around a tube thats to be heated or cooled
Right, no soldering! Another possible similar sealing method might be to melt some hot glue and spread a coating of it inside the tubing ends with a Q-tip, toothpick or equivalent before filling the tube with water and folding the ends over to create a durable water-tight seal before hydro-forming. That would probably be even better than using a rubber band to seal the ends!
Wayne Ashby good one . i think the hot glue idea would be perfect , soldering is very tricky . i am definitely gonna try your idea , i may post a vid titled " wayne Ashby solution "
how tight a radius can be achieved? What minimum wall thickness since you say possibly 1000 psi generated?
you can rap a coil around a screw driver with this method and maybe even thinner , as for the wall thickness i dont no , the 1000 psi was an educated guess , in the future i may connect a gauge to find out
love this. works amazing. I used valves without soldering.
glad it worked for you , i didnt have any valves on hand at the time of this video and they cost around $5 apiece so i decided to try the solder , it is not easy to do , you cannot skip steps , any way thanks for sharing your success
FLARE THE ENDS! That's right, slide a nut on, flare the ends, put your valves on and syphon water before closing the valves. Simply cut the flares off the ends or leave them on.
Best answer yet!
You're correct, flaring the ends is what I did to make a 5/8" M copper tube to make a 5' coil to fit in the middle of a gas hot water heater tank.
yes i mention this in the video @ 5:03 watch from that point
Sorry, but you missed my point; NO SOLDERING is involved when you flare. That means, no potential of water spray in your eyes. No crimping, no hammering, no blow torch and no heat-sink.After bending, you can cut the flare off and retrieve your nut for re-use on the next piece. Using solder is simply, 'going in the wrong direction'.
Do you think this would work with aluminum tubing? I need to bend some pretty stiff 3/8 5052 aluminum and I'm thinking of giving this a try.
it should , the aluminum may crack but it should work just fine .
maybe rap the coil on something a little smaller then the size your shooting for and it will expand outward to its relaxed position
i was thinking about flaring the end and using a cap, and using compressed air to like 10 or 20 psi with a check valve. And then a pressure releif valve set to like 50 psi.....
This this would work with brake lines?
Just cap the ends, but would the steel be too much?
yes people have used this method on break lines
P.S. how did you keep the water line full? did the crimp on the ends take care of the water leaking out before you solder?
you have to use a syphon to get water flowing threw the pipe , or a pump and as water is flowing i cut the pipe using open end cutters , this trapps the water leafing no air gaps
Cool so i can use it to bend copper also without flattenting the pipe .cause my spring bender is to wide
Yeah done this b4,
However I used bolt cutters to seal the end n hot glue, fill and seal other end,
What are you doing with the steam generator?
does it not affect the remaining water if the pipe is used ?? can the water be completely clean in the pipe ?? and how do you clean the remaining water in the pipe ??
apologize in advance 🙏🙏 I don't understand English ,, I only understand what's in this video ... I use google translate to ask you 🙏🙏
I'm from Indonesia, please ANSWER 🙏🙏 thank you
can you bend copper brake pipes also (for cars)? Is it safe (would it keep the strength of the pipe and not waken the material)?
To be honest i can't tell you yes to a question that serious , however it is my opinion that it would be ok to use this method for bending copper and stainless steel brake lines as these all can be bent with tubing benders. So i would say that because using a bender is ok that this process should be safe as well
they make a copper nickle alloy for brake lines , i think that's what he ment
You mentioned that the pressure built up in the tube is probably 1,000psi, but if that were the case then at 2:55 when you cut it open wouldn't water spray everywhere due to the pressure? And solder only has a pressure rating of 200psi, so it has to be lower than that otherwise the solder wouldn't hold. And some of the compression valves I looked at have up to about a 150psi rating (not 35 as mentioned in the video). So using a compression valve without soldering it on will give you about 75% of the strength, with much less work.
Why would the pressure be relieved after bending? It has nowhere to go. If you bend the tube and it compresses the walls and increases the pressure, it would stay that way until you relieve the pressure by cutting off the end. And the solder would still pop off with 1000psi since it only has a holding strength of about 200psi. And he said he's had that happen a few times, but the other times where the solder doesn't pop off the pressure had to have stayed below that.
Well if we're going to talk about the crimps preventing all the pressure from pushing against the solder, then why does it even matter what the psi is inside of the tube when all that matters is the psi pushing at the ends? If solder has a 200psi rating, and a compression fitting has one of 150, I'd imagine they would hold pretty similar maximum pressures without having to solder the fitting on. That's all I'm getting at.
its not air pressure so no it wouldn't spray the way you think and yes i was wrong about the 35 psi but ive used them enough to no they suck and usually leak at pressures that low also on the wall at menards they recomend flared fitting fore pressure above 35 psi . at the end of the video i do a test using only bent pipe and it leaks so i still do not trust compression fittings . and solder used in this way can hold way more then 200 psi , i currently have videos with tubing full of acetone working at these pressures and every time ive had to solder the compression fittings , text book info and application experience are not the same thing . i have video proof , look at my heat engine videos . solder holds up to 2000 psi on small tubing and maybe hire
solder has a pressure rating far beyond 200 psi on tubes this side , if you dont believe me watch my hydrothermic videos and heat engine videos , if you e ever use compression fittings in practise you will learn the hard way they are not good for pressure over 35 psi , they are very finicky and if not properly torqued they leak every time , flared fittings are better but if you get some lab grade or industrial grade compression fittings then yes they will work every time also solder is super cheap compression fittings with a valve can cost up to $5 so again its a bad idea but be my guest , do it your way . dont think im beating you up on this i just strongly disagree that compression fittings are good for this application
It doesn't work , i try this in the video and they leak , i even hammer them flat and bend them over
Have you tried using compressed air. You wind the pipe arround the copper, and not the copper arround the pipe. That way you can hold on to your copper and have it connected to air or water supply throughout the entire process.
I used water submersion to solder these , submerge up to where you had the paper towel
great idea
NOBOX7, in refrigeration we use a tool called a pinch-off tool to achieve a temporary seal to braze copper lines under pressure. Would be a good way for you to do your initial pinch before solder. Made by Yellow Jacket and Imperial Tools.
Cool thanks for the tip ill check it out .
There are two types. One looks like a pair of vice grips, one looks like a flaring block. The vice grip type don't work well. The flare block type allow you to reopen the tube. Thanks for the great video.
ok thanks again ,ill remember that
have you tried pre-tinning the ends by any chance? i think if you pre-tin the ends and then fill with water and flatten out like you did you can achieve a better solder joint on the ends.
no i haven't i use acid core solder which does not require tinning but it may possibly help , as this is a super fast job , you have 5 seconds in and out or steam develops and blows the joint out , compression fittings on each end works better but i didn't have any at the time and this is cheaper
This is neat! I will share this to see other possible applications!
35 psi for compression fittings? Which compression fittings are you using. Check out Swegelok's specs. I'm very sure there much higher than that.
chris dockman yes much higher pressures! Even Parker makes tiny fittings with high pressure ratings
you guys are referring to flared fittings or lab grade compression fittings , menards or lowes or any other store for that matter does not sell high pressure compression fittings , every time ive used them they leak almost all the time . i was referring to menards grade brass compression fittings , flared fittings can handle thousands of psi. i will admit i do not remember where i read that but i think i seen that figure at menards on the wall above the fittings
@@NOBOX7 Common peak city water pressure in UK, at least where I lived in Yorkshire, was 200 PSI and brass compression fittings were commonly used especially on toilet tanks where valve service could be an issue.
Does tapping the inside and putting a screw in work? Maybe with a tight steel sleeve to get a little extra tension without stretching and some thread tape?
You can probably find a flare or compression fitting that will hold the pressure, I know swagelok-type ones would but you need new swage seals each time.
I did that, only I froze the water. the coil came out nice and was easy to empty. soldering with water in it is a pain in the ass.
Have you ever tried to hydroform the 1 1/2” copper ?
Type of copper ?? L or K. I did one the freeze method n I need to tighten the coil. I’ll try ur way Type k is less prone to kinking on it’s own.
sand is much easier and a hell of a lot safer. if anyone does not use the right amount of a heat barrier and heat gets to the water, they will get a face full of steam and molten solder. Just crimp, fill with sand, crimp the other end and go!
you've never done this i can tell.
do you have any idea how long it takes to put sand in a 50 ft copper tube ? any idea how long it takes to get it out ? the pressure crushes the sand into a pill it does not just flow out.
I paid my college bills by doing HVAC installs. There are also specialty tools for such bends - they look like tightly wound springs, which constrain the tube from the outside. Even tho each tech had a set on their truck, we hardly ever used that method, because it was always a pain to get them off the copper.When i was being trained, my super, who was an AC guy for 15 years, , showed me the sand routine. Nearly everyone i worked with would opt for the sand, i can't remember anyone using the spring coils. I have used the sand method many times, with 50' coils ,100' coils and with rigid pipe. Copper coils in AC ranged from 1/4 to 3/4" , so i can't speak to larger diameters.
Never had much problem getting out the sand- and i needed to be damn sure it was out as a few stray grains of sand could really incapacitate the freon diffuser at the cold end of the install or the compressor at the hot end . To ensure no residue would remain, a few blasts from a portable air compressor usually did the trick. I never had a seized compressor or clogged diffuser due to sand. The reason i objected to your water idea, was that i also had to braze these coils to withstand freon pressures of 300psi - regular sweating like what is the typical plumbing requirement won't handle freon. Because of that, I am very familiar with how rapid the heat transfer of copper really is, and how tricky it can be to block heat from traveling. We used specialty high temp gels, not just a wet rag, and even then, if the line had too much built up moisture, it would flash to steam and spit molten silver solder in your face. I'm not trying to troll you, or just be a dick - i genuinely think the water idea has some possibly dangerous drawbacks, and wanted to state my caveats for anyone who may not be as experienced, and might injure themselves.
I see nothing wrong with that , i think maybe sand is better then salt as i never intend to use it after the slat nightmare
Thank you , for the great video, just what i needed for copper tube to bend for to keep hydroponic juice warm. Thanks again
hello friend , the practice works better with frozen extremely soapy water , make a custard as they say and it will act as puddy to give you the best bend
I've never made a coil before but I need one for a project I'm working on so I'm glad I found this video. Can you explain to me why you couldn't flush the salt out with water? Does the bending do something to it that I'm missing? Thanks again for the video!
yes the salt crushes it , kinda like making a pill buy pressing powder in a hydrolic press , i have used salt for years and had many problems getting it out , i even put a coil in a pot of boiling water for hours then i tried to blow it out with high pressure air , i swore to never ever use salt again , i even tried to vibrate it out using high magnitude high frequency vibrations , don't do it bro don't waist your time , if you hammer the ends good enough you don't have to solder them
NOBOX7 oh wow that's crazy, thanks for the advice.
Just one more quick question. What makes this better than ice in your opinion? I ask because I live way up north and we're getting between minus 20 to minus 40C weather depending on the day so freezing the water takes minutes (as you can imagine). Thanks again!
Brendan Byrne water is instant if you have time to freeze it you wont have to solder it
NOBOX7 Awesome, thanks for the advice! You've saved me a bunch of time. I was pretty set on using salt because I never heard the downsides.
do you think if you used wax, you could skip the soldering?
wax is a bad idea , it would be very hard to get it out completely, you could just buy some needle valves for each end but you cant have any air in the line or leaks or the process doesn't work well
Hed&Pen is miracle,Thank you
خیلی باحال بود ایول داری
They make a low temp alloy that use use to fill tubes with, for coiling. Just a soft flmwe melts it out pretty clean. It seems he goes through a lot of trouble just to coil copper. Un-annealed copper coils without filling!
Ever thought of capping the ends with compression joints? Totally water tight even at the pressures generated when coiling, and apart from the olives are reusable and cheap.
great idea sir , during the filming of this video i didnt have any on hand , i do mention that in the end of the video but i still appreciate your input and i just learned the word olive so thanks man, never herd them called that before . i dont usually watch videos all the way threw either so i hope i dont sound like a smart ass
I use fine sand in it and seal by solder one both end of tube its works
congratulations excellent original idea. Why not use the tap on one side only???? That Old Bob
can you also be capable of making a coil from a steel line using your method?
definitely
Mr 2ekko p
Awesome please post anymore metal
Forming tips you have (I am a sheet metal worker and bend and play with metal for fun)
Instead of soldering the end why not use some push to connect fittings with a shut off valve on both ends and a garden hose attachment? Then all you do is turn the hose on and let it run long enough through the copper tubing until you know there's no air pockets trapped inside the line and then shut off the end opposite the garden hose attachment first and then shut off the second valve and disconnect from the garden hose and you should have the line completely filled and ready to bend. Afterwards just use the disconnect tool to take the push to connect fittings off so they can be reused
I mention that in the video and the reason i dont do it is cost .... it is a safer method but this way is quick and cost about 4 cents verses 8 to 10$
yes i mention this in the video @ 5:03 watch from that point
Reply 1
Thanks man !
I was just about to do a 3/4" and 6 feet copper pipe using SALT.
I'll give your method a shot, buddy.
Hey brother just so you know , a 3/4 pipe might not experience the "pill" ever see how they make pills ? like asperin ? thats what happens to the salt , it becomes a salt pill and will not come out . but a 3/4 pipe i have never done so i dont no if it is necessary. you must do some pre kinks to stretch the pipe , the coper is very soft until stretched or bent
OK buddy.
Thanks.
@@MikePoirier How did it go?
How is best way to coil ¾ tubing
Nice idea much better than freezing.
Thank that Friend for me I used sand ice and like said dose not work that I stopped trying
You can also fill it with fine sand, you put any cap without the need for welding ..
It would be nice if you show the motors that you move with those flash boilers!!
Actually freind these devices are being fabricated to run charcoal gasifiers using a process called the Boudouard reaction and the water gas reaction . The device turns Co2 and steam into hydrogen and carbon monoxide to fuel a generator
Thank you for your explanation! wish you the best in your endeavors! may I ask why don't you flatten the tube and then coil it??? then you can just turn around and use a bit of water pressure to expand it just enough to meet your needs??
good idea
Yea, right
Would wax work? You should be able to melt the wax into the tube, form the tube when the wax is solid, and burn/melt out the wax when your done.
I've done the same thing wrapping copper around a pipe without anything in the pipe and never had problems kinking
will this work with oil making ss brake lines
o and all my parts can handle 5000 psi + parker type
yes it will but the thing is believe it or not oil is way more compressible then water , if you dont believe me look up bulk modulus of liquids. i even have videos of oil and acetone being compressed by a heat engine i built
i would use water if i was you but oil should work
thanks ,cool . cool, to york engine have to look it up . yes i know about hydraulics systems from work just did know if there was enough PSI. or oil to work
just so you no i mentioned using water instead of oil because even though people don't believe me when i tell them this but oil is far more compressible then water , i am very familiar with the mathematics and equations of this subject and despite popular opinion even water is compressible it is the least compressible of all fluids though . bulk modulus is the term used to describe the compressibility of fluids . the reason hydraulic fluids are water based is because water is less compressible then pure oil and hydraulic equipment suffers compression losses when using just pure oil , so if your gonna bend a long coil of tubing the oil would begin to compress just a little and not give you as good of a bend
Drill a hole in your forming pipe to hold one end of the pipe before you coil it, file it oval shaped , makes life easier, secondly to get sand or salt out of the pipe just use a airline on a compressor, comes out in seconds.....when you bend it on the former hold the pipe nearer the former, your hand is about 10 inches away from the former, its needs to be a lot closer to get a tighter fit, also you could anneal the pipe before you fill and seal it, copper age hardens with time and makes it difficult to form, also after you have formed it , it would have work hardened, I use copper all the time in air con and in making jewellery. looks good though.
Not the slightest bit true , i can tell you never made a long coil , my friend salt is a no go , it turns into a huge pill like an asperin and it will not come out for hours of work
@@NOBOX7 I use an air line when I do my coils, I only use fine dry silver sand ( I heat it in the oven before hand to dry it) and not salt simply as salt will compact when humid, once i have done the coil i cut of the two ends and put my air line on it, I have made a solder fitting that fits on the pipe at one end and just turn on the compressor full pressure and tap the coil with a piece of wood and the sand comes out in about 1 minute. It really does work, I have not tried the water method but after seeing your video i will give it a try. The only thing is I dont do is coils smaller than 2 inches as I make them for induction heaters, stills and other items, maybe thats why the sand comes out easier. Larger coil?
The hole i was referring to is a slot or large hole at the start of the former and that can hold the first part of the pipe for you to aid the first coil to be tight.I use a jubilee clip to hold it in place, I form mine round pieces of wood that I have turned on my lathe and have cut a slot into , the only other thing I do is put some linseed oil on the wood before forming and that seems to help it slide round.
I have a large metal lathe at home and have put that on a very slow speed, locked a piece of pie into the chuck end and formed a pipe around a 2 inch former , its a bit scary as even on the slowest speed the lathe is still a bit to quick for my liking, I will try and do a video next time I do one to show you what I do. Many thanks for yours.
Did you try filling tube with fine sand
Yes and water is the way to go
hi, will it works for 15m tube?
yes it will but , in fact it works better for big pipes , ive never tried a huge 15mm tube before but it should work
no, I meant the tube will have 15 meters length
Rizal Zulkifar oh yes the trick is to pump water threw it using a siphon to get out all the air , length is not an issue
Hi man, it's work. Thank you for the video, it helps. Cheers
glad i could help
Have you ever bent a one inch hard copper pipe? We want to make our 'copper' shower curtain to match all the copper piping in our 'old' bathroom. thanks,
julie
Just wondering how a Shark Bite cap fitting would do. Reusable and simple if it holds the pressure.
Try soldering a pipe cap on the end. That should end your leaks and you could reuse it.
If the pipe is full of water, you will never get it hot enough for the solder to flow.
hi i want to make copper pipes counter flow coil or Zchiller (if you know about it then ok if not plz google it) can you help me ?????
yes but will you tell me what your using it for ?
maybe let me no what you would need help with , ask me what troubles your having
actually i want to make essential oil distiller i need best condenser to cool steam. i have 2 copper pipes one is 12mm and 2nd is 6mm i want to put 6mm pipe in 12mm pipe and make a coil, seal 12mm pipe from both end and make holes on both end of 12mm pipe for cool water flow and my steam passes through 6mm pipe. (sorry for my bad English)
Bhai BhaiKhurram i see , well to do that i dont think you would need a zchiller , small condensers are very powerful , and work i have done in the past i i made one from 1 inch copper pipe and drilled 9 holes in the end capps then i inserted 9 1/8 inch copper tubes in the holes then i solderd end caps over the end caps that contained the tubes and this is the place the cold water would be pumped threw , then i connected hoses to the top and bottom of the 1 inch pipe and this device was only 1 foot long but it would condense huge amounts of steam , i connected it to my garden hose and turned it on low and i was amazed at how such a small condensor could liquefy so much steam
ooooh that,s good can you share picture of this ??? (bhaikhurram@gmail.com)
i pick the idea from this picture for distillation here is the link of picture
s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/56/60/ce/5660ceade5a87d4ae4c19d0b1908b462.gif
now i have these pipes in 8ft length if i make coil and use your method work it ????
I wonder if a sharkbite would work?
its hard to say , the pressure during the bend is very high , i will soon do a video featuring a pressure gauge connected to a coil being bent . I think the pressure is at least 500 psi but i bet a small sharkbite would hold that much pressure.
I'd love this process for alcohol burners, copper coil.
Multiple jar loop system
Good idea, i shall try soon. i have always used wax , let it set ,bend , warm ,watch it run out, done,
many people suggest using water and dish soap and to freeze the mixture , i think the soap stops the water from bursting th pipe when it freezes
You could anneal the copper. And instead of using a torch to solder, use an electric soldering iron or an actual soldering copper. Using 50/50 solder with flux. Minimal heat should do the the job without creating steam.
Yes , these days i use flare fittings
Why did you flatten the ends before soldiering
this was done to move water away from the solder joint , this avoids steam blowing the solder out of the joint
Thanks for the vid. I'm going to do my first pipe coil that I'm going to use as a DIY cooler for a long range rifle barrel between mag's.
Want to try a double helix using two sized pipes to wrap around. I'm so glad to have seen your post. Super nice. Wasn't sure how to get the salt out of a small copper line.
Using 1/4 inch tubing and thought about putting a compression fitting on one end but not sure how that would work.
This was a good Google how to.
Thanks.
you could tap both ends, put a screw in one end, fill it up, put a screw on the other end closing the tube.. that would certainly be the easiest thing to do.
Never use a grinder with out the guard. I know you'll say it was in my way. Just for starters . If some nut job drops it and not tell you it can blow up in your face. Good luck with it was in my way. They sell stiches by the yard.
noob
Great idea.....original thinking ..........thanks for that.
Works great! Now can you do a video to show me how to get my 100 foot coil off of my utility pole? My phone company is starting to complain.