To help prevent any cracks, Polish the forming radius of the forming block. Oil you block before putting you blank piece. You want a lubricant between your blank and your block. Use clevis pins for your locating pins: they are cheap, have a loose fit and a low head. Also always consider the grain direction of the aluminium. The best is to have the grain direction perpendicular to the forming radius (less cracking and stronger finished part) ...I've designed more than a 1000 of these forming tools over the last 20 years.
If you sprinkle talcum powder on both pieces of rubber it will flow much easier and last longer.We use rubber quite often in our shop for forming but mostly as a bottom die in a 150 ton press brake.
This is Rubber Pressing by the Guerin method. Lurathane is a Polyurethane elastomer suitable for this process. Two one inch sheets can successfully be substituted for the two inch block. More complicated and larger pieces can be formed with the use of pressure intensifiers that assist the rubber to flow around the solid die. A second die with a bevel and a cutout in the shape of the first die with significant clearance ( an inch or more) around the first die.
Sorry Chuck I don't have a video just a couple of years experience pre 2000. We used to place the blank on top of the rubber and then drive the die down into it . Located the die on the blank with a couple of universal head rivets. Secured the rivets to the blank with sticky tape .
Thank you so much for this precious information, currently we want to build a bike frame with hidroforming this video is gold for us, thank you again!!!
If you're making smaller pieces you could use a hockey puck for the rubber blank. They're plentiful. Or the blocks they use for automotive lifts. They're relatively affordable, easy to find and come in many shapes and sizes
Instead of dealing with an inner tube as a sacrificial medium...try using pieces of roll rubber roofing material. It's much tougher than inner tube. There are a couple of different thicknesses available but it's cheap and easy to cut and easy to work with.
I love tidbits like this. I wonder what kind of part you could get using bondo as the fluid under pressure. Keep it under pressure til the bondo cures. I can't think of any particular use atm.
I've made dies from fiberglass with as much as 1.5" draw in mild steel. I use a 200 ton hydraulic press for pieces as big as 300 square inches. Instead of rubber, I make male and female dies.
Can use a harbor freight log splitter as a press also. We use them for forge presses in blacksmithing. Cheap as hell and it can be used as a log splitter or a press just by fabricating some kind of quick(ish) die changing system.
You should blend your rubber into chunks, making bags of different densities, mixed with different dyes. Red for high, blue for low, etc. Then "pour" this rubber into box to give a differential gradient by mixing them. If the rubber is not only of varying colour but also varying size, you could quickly filter them back out into bags afterwards, and refresh the bags from time to time.
The biggest problem with this approach is getting the small chunks in between the metal to be formed and the mold. If we use sacrificial rubber that is all tore up we have the same problem. If used with a single sheet of rubber and then the chunks, the process would probably work well. Good thinking.
Excellent teaching ! 6061 T6 .010 thick material could be formed I believe . Hardcoat Anodizing could allow stiffness, and wear resistant surfaces, and color dying. I have c n c machined solid material, and your teaching teaches this. Thank you Thank you
I think that your locating pins should be as rounded and low as possible. The hex corners prevent smooth flow of the rubber towards acted on material. Also, the sharp corners of the hex are what tears the inner tube sacrificial material.
hello, I found the rubber suitable for making the forming block for my project.... I see you have made plans for making the plunger as well to fit inside the box. I assume constructing the plunger is cheaper than sourcing a very thick steel plate?
wonder if the solid rubber floor mats might be a good cheap source or rubber? about 1/2" thinkness glued together. I may have to do this. Thanks for the video.
I went out and bought myself two 100 tonne hydraulic cylinders and a pump to drive them at 700 bar. yep I am going to make a press and then do this. awesome. oh and one last thing. the most important think. thank you
Hi. I just thought I should let you know, Lemon pledge is full of silicone. There is such a thing as silicone spray if you want something pure but silicone is horrible stuff to get off of surfaces before you primer or paint. It's totally verboten in paint shops. Also, it contaminates your entire shop in which you will be painting resulting in random fish eye. Would not be my go-to. Why not slightly watered down dish soap? Washes off easily and is probably even cheaper.
Thanks for your comments. I think everything you say has validity. We have not tried the dish soap, but I'm sure that it would work well. We been using the lemon pledge for quite some time and haven't really noticed it being a big deal. If you'll notice the thumbnail for the video shows the part anodized. No special treatment was necessary. Simply wash the part with soap and water and proceed with the anodizing process. Normally a contaminated part is not tolerant of any silicone, oil, etc. maybe we are just using cheap lemon pledge. Many of the parts that we use this process on get painted as well. Haven't noticed any problems with fisheye. All that being said. I still agree with you. When we get a chance, we will try the dish soap idea.
You are welcome. Great videos, by the way. Very thorough. I'm looking forward to using these techniques to build the ribs and formers for my experimental Stinson 108 wing extensions. Silicone probably does not affect anodizing because I imagine the acid bath removes it, but paint may be a different issue. Thorough cleaning is essential and I'm sure most folks follow cleaning procedures carefully and therefore should not have big problems. That said, it's probably good to know about. It would be interesting to see the difference in primer and paint adhesion with silicone and without. That may tell a different story. Most of my experience with it comes from my woodworking profession where it's avoided like the plague because the silicone becomes trapped in the porous wood. You can imagine because of that it's a lot worse on wood. It makes refinishing very difficult. Cheers!
Have you ever experimented on using tiny rubber beads suspended in slippery fluid instead? Your press could have weep holes where you can recycle the fluid on the next press.
Really cool, one question, why is the box so big, if pressure is a "precious" commodity? Would you have more available pressure with say, a 6 x6 inch box?
The answer is, of course, is yes. The trick is to balance all of the aspects of the box to make it the most usable possible. The primary criteria is the size of part and the thickness of material that you're trying to form. If all you had to make was one specific part, you would probably size the box specifically for that purpose. The other criteria is you may have a press with much more capability than the simple 20 tons available from the cheapo harbor freight press. In our shop we actually have a 200 ton press and a box that is 16" x 24". We
Thank you I do not build airplanes, mostly just from lack of funds and a place to build it. However, I do small metal working projects, and this may work for them, tho the box itself will be much smaller.
Consider RF welding TPU to make your bladders. It costs pennies a bladder and stays glued inside the part. your latex bladder only last so long and then they break off inside the part as they age. The TPU stays bound to the epoxy forever.
Nothing in is video is hydroforming related! What you do here is rubber stamp. Hydroforming involves injecting water (or liquid of sorts) under pressure.
When I was making countertops I would give the good customers a cutting board to match their countertops made out of that sink cutout run a router around it twice and poof happy people that get you more work.
Like the old joke, "To become a millionaire, first, get a million dollars." In this case, "To use this simple method of forming parts, first, get a die made."
Just have a company make it it won’t be that much then you can make 1,000 of them that die will last forever. If you don’t need large quantities then you shouldn’t even be looking at this method
How about forming Vehicle Replacement Floor Pans, from Sheet Steel? What kind of Press (Pressure) would that require? How about Making the Dies in a "Progressive Step Sequence", where each Die moves the metal towards the Final shape a % of the movement at a time? Say, Die #1 moves the metal 25% of the target shape; then Die #2, another 25%; Die #3 - another 25%; & Due #4, the Last 25%? This way, you could also have the Benefit of more steps with Lubricants allowing the Metal you are forming, to "Slide" as it moves, instead of "Gripping" to the Die, or the Rubber!
Wonder how a non newtonian fluid would work? How about plasticine? Silly putty (also non newtonian)? I think the harder rubber works because pressure is not lost from getting squeezed out the edges from sloppy fitting pressure plate. The inner tube rubber is much softer.
Have you ever tried hydro forming small stringers from 1/2 X 1/2 X 1/16T 2024T3? If so, can you give some recommendations? Examples of the blocks used?
If you had it as a water *tank* what would prevent the water from getting under the workpiece? Then, as you pressurize the water, wouldn't it just increase in pressure everywhere, both above and below the workpiece, thus doing nothing? This technique relies on increasing the pressure above the piece, while maintaining a low pressure below - that's what pushes parts of the workpiece downward. The idea of a water bag is interesting, but you've already got what - 300-400 psi of pressure being generated? Now take that bag and bend it over a slightly sharp edge (say the points on one of those hex-head bolts.) You'd need some pretty strong bag material for it not to puncture. Use some rubber sheets between the bag and the workpiece you say? Then you've pretty much come full circle right back to where you've started, haven't you?
STUPID QUESTION, BUT IS IT EVER PRACTICAL FROM A METAL-FATIGUE-DUE-TO-FORMING STANDPOINT OF, FOR EXAMPLE, GOING TO RIBS THAT ARE HALF AS THICK AND DOUBLING THEIR NUMBER? Sorry for the caps, wasn't watching.
This was the EMG-5, the predecessor to the EMG-6 electric motor glider. The project was discontinued after the FAA's interpretation of part 103 mandating that batteries be considered part of the empty weight rather than as fuel. More information about the FAA interpretation on our website www.electricmotorglider.com
Subscribed :) Thank you for sharing this impressive process, seems like a nice pair to bucks which are 3D printed at 100% fill, or MDF routed with the affordable "Makesmith CNC" My question/request if you please: Would you repeat your hydroforming technique with the use of fill from a $10 bag of "recycled rubber mulch" from a garden store? I know how useful a press is, but I'm interested in your assessment of the expensive rubber block compared to mulch. Many thanks again for this great video!!
I think you want sheet, in order to provide even pressure. Mulch would have all kinds of air gaps, and squeezing those out would divert some of the pressure. Also you might not have consistent rubber hardness, also there might be steel strands in shredded tires...
This is awesome. Im trying to use this technique to form some automotive panels. Anymore advice would be great, ill have a closer look at you RUclips channel for more info. Thanks
![Chino Pacas - Smith (ft. Junior H & Fuerza Regida) [Video Visualizador Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BVK6k56X30Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
To help prevent any cracks, Polish the forming radius of the forming block. Oil you block before putting you blank piece. You want a lubricant between your blank and your block. Use clevis pins for your locating pins: they are cheap, have a loose fit and a low head. Also always consider the grain direction of the aluminium. The best is to have the grain direction perpendicular to the forming radius (less cracking and stronger finished part) ...I've designed more than a 1000 of these forming tools over the last 20 years.
@MichaelKingsfordGray
Oil?
If you sprinkle talcum powder on both pieces of rubber it will flow much easier and last longer.We use rubber quite often in our shop for forming but mostly as a bottom die in a 150 ton press brake.
Excellent! No fluff nor filler. Eye opener, thought provoking, I want one.
This is Rubber Pressing by the Guerin method. Lurathane is a Polyurethane elastomer suitable for this process. Two one inch sheets can successfully be substituted for the two inch block. More complicated and larger pieces can be formed with the use of pressure intensifiers that assist the rubber to flow around the solid die. A second die with a bevel and a cutout in the shape of the first die with significant clearance ( an inch or more) around the first die.
I'd be interested in seeing how that might work. Is there a link to a video anywhere ? VERY interesting idea - THANKS !
Sorry Chuck I don't have a video just a couple of years experience pre 2000. We used to place the blank on top of the rubber and then drive the die down into it . Located the die on the blank with a couple of universal head rivets. Secured the rivets to the blank with sticky tape .
Wow, this is one of the most informative videos I've seen in a while.
Remarkable manufacturing technique. I've done a lot of machining/milling and composite work, but never this. Very cool.
Not interested in forming. Well, not much.
But I love videos like these packed. Useful information for us non-professional makers.
Well done.
Wow...I have nothing I need to make but I want to go out and round up all the stuff for this rig. Amazingly cool. Subbed!
Thank you so much for this precious information, currently we want to build a bike frame with hidroforming this video is gold for us, thank you again!!!
Really great instructional video, clear instruction, well illustrated, good unity. Thank you bigly for creating same. :-)
If you're making smaller pieces you could use a hockey puck for the rubber blank. They're plentiful.
Or the blocks they use for automotive lifts. They're relatively affordable, easy to find and come in many shapes and sizes
Instead of dealing with an inner tube as a sacrificial medium...try using pieces of roll rubber roofing material. It's much tougher than inner tube. There are a couple of different thicknesses available but it's cheap and easy to cut and easy to work with.
Thank you for the info and your professional advice.
Well well well. And just when you think youve seen everything, this comes along.
I'm impressed, and believe this will be useful in many a home shop.
I see what you did there...………. impressed !!
I have made dies for rubber forming with glass reinforced bondo, works well for a limited number of parts.
I love tidbits like this. I wonder what kind of part you could get using bondo as the fluid under pressure. Keep it under pressure til the bondo cures. I can't think of any particular use atm.
I've made dies from fiberglass with as much as 1.5" draw in mild steel. I use a 200 ton hydraulic press for pieces as big as 300 square inches. Instead of rubber, I make male and female dies.
You can also try baby powder as the lubricant instead of lemon pledge. Put some between the tooling and the metal, too.
Can use a harbor freight log splitter as a press also. We use them for forge presses in blacksmithing. Cheap as hell and it can be used as a log splitter or a press just by fabricating some kind of quick(ish) die changing system.
The high school shop teacher I never had. Thanks brother!
Awesome video! These techniques can be useful to me! Im not building a plane but for simple parts for my jon boat!
That was a great video and very informative, thank you for your efforts!
You should blend your rubber into chunks, making bags of different densities, mixed with different dyes. Red for high, blue for low, etc. Then "pour" this rubber into box to give a differential gradient by mixing them. If the rubber is not only of varying colour but also varying size, you could quickly filter them back out into bags afterwards, and refresh the bags from time to time.
The biggest problem with this approach is getting the small chunks in between the metal to be formed and the mold. If we use sacrificial rubber that is all tore up we have the same problem. If used with a single sheet of rubber and then the chunks, the process would probably work well. Good thinking.
Rainbow.... You are my sun shine ☀️
very intresting and nice info but wich part of this is exactly hidroforming?
This is a fantastic video! No idea that something like this was possible.
Loved the fighter planes on the wall!!
It's called rubber block forming ! Nice video by the way
Excellent teaching !
6061 T6 .010 thick material could be formed I believe .
Hardcoat Anodizing could allow stiffness, and wear resistant surfaces, and color dying.
I have c n c machined solid material, and your teaching teaches this.
Thank you
Thank you
Little late to comment here, but... Ever see how Colin Furze did hydroforming with a pressure washer?
Super informative. Thank you.
Great video, fantastic information. Thanks
I think that your locating pins should be as rounded and low as possible. The hex corners prevent smooth flow of the rubber towards acted on material. Also, the sharp corners of the hex are what tears the inner tube sacrificial material.
E Flanagan use clevis pins
Button head bolts would work better.
I readily concur, our normal locating pin is a used clevis bolt with a
Flat head capscrews, then you can get a formed countersink too.
Learnt a few good things here for the NON_Aviation engineering sector -got that itch to go and try now - Corian? new name for me too Thanks for all!
hello, I found the rubber suitable for making the forming block for my project.... I see you have made plans for making the plunger as well to fit inside the box. I assume constructing the plunger is cheaper than sourcing a very thick steel plate?
I have a question. Would a round box handle the pressure better than a square one?
What was the aircraft you were working on? The low wing single seat pusher.
wonder if the solid rubber floor mats might be a good cheap source or rubber? about 1/2" thinkness glued together. I may have to do this. Thanks for the video.
I'm sure that the floor mats would work. Good idea. the point here is. "low Cost".
TPU rubber floor mat. It’s basically hard but foamed.
I went out and bought myself two 100 tonne hydraulic cylinders and a pump to drive them at 700 bar. yep I am going to make a press and then do this. awesome. oh and one last thing. the most important think. thank you
Simply Spectacular
Impressive and great description !
This is really elastomeric forming.
Rubber Pad Forming or Guerin Stamping.
Yes, with the elastomer acting as one of two FLUIDS in the process.
Have you tried using a pressure washer to develop the pressure needed?
I learned something. Thanks. But I wonder what kind of press you used for the larger wing parts?
I have a Big monster press. 400 tons.
There's a documentary about the largest press. Germany had the largest untill America created the largest. Worth a watch. Very interesting
hello friend , have you considered using a smaller die pad for smaller objects to increase the force ?
Considering the rubber is only in contact with the small die it is still transferring max force to the part.
Thank you, great idea
I worked in the lighting industry. A lot of the shapes were parabolic. We used 1100-0
Hi. I just thought I should let you know, Lemon pledge is full of silicone. There is such a thing as silicone spray if you want something pure but silicone is horrible stuff to get off of surfaces before you primer or paint. It's totally verboten in paint shops. Also, it contaminates your entire shop in which you will be painting resulting in random fish eye. Would not be my go-to. Why not slightly watered down dish soap? Washes off easily and is probably even cheaper.
Thanks for your comments. I think everything you say has validity. We have not tried the dish soap, but I'm sure that it would work well. We been using the lemon pledge for quite some time and haven't really noticed it being a big deal. If you'll notice the thumbnail for the video shows the part anodized. No special treatment was necessary. Simply wash the part with soap and water and proceed with the anodizing process. Normally a contaminated part is not tolerant of any silicone, oil, etc. maybe we are just using cheap lemon pledge. Many of the parts that we use this process on get painted as well. Haven't noticed any problems with fisheye. All that being said. I still agree with you. When we get a chance, we will try the dish soap idea.
You are welcome. Great videos, by the way. Very thorough. I'm looking forward to using these techniques to build the ribs and formers for my experimental Stinson 108 wing extensions.
Silicone probably does not affect anodizing because I imagine the acid bath removes it, but paint may be a different issue. Thorough cleaning is essential and I'm sure most folks follow cleaning procedures carefully and therefore should not have big problems. That said, it's probably good to know about. It would be interesting to see the difference in primer and paint adhesion with silicone and without. That may tell a different story.
Most of my experience with it comes from my woodworking profession where it's avoided like the plague because the silicone becomes trapped in the porous wood. You can imagine because of that it's a lot worse on wood. It makes refinishing very difficult. Cheers!
exactly what i needed & more
thank you so much 🙏🏻
2020 ... Thank you ... and Subscribed
Great! Now I know what to do with my empty beer cans.
Thank you!!! The best vídeo explication
Have you ever experimented on using tiny rubber beads suspended in slippery fluid instead? Your press could have weep holes where you can recycle the fluid on the next press.
Really cool, one question, why is the box so big, if pressure is a "precious" commodity? Would you have more available pressure with say, a 6 x6 inch box?
The answer is, of course, is yes. The trick is to balance all of the aspects of the box to make it the most usable possible. The primary criteria is the size of part and the thickness of material that you're trying to form. If all you had to make was one specific part, you would probably size the box specifically for that purpose. The other criteria is you may have a press with much more capability than the simple 20 tons available from the cheapo harbor freight press. In our shop we actually have a 200 ton press and a box that is 16" x 24". We
can't you saturate your MDF in a high strength epoxy to make it more durable?
I use Hockey puck as rubber. perfect for small parts.
I use a hard durometer rubber for increasing definition in localized areas. The puck would work great for that.
I use a gym weight lifters matt... cheap, bouncy ( about a 50 shore or so ) and cheap from American floor mats. FYI
Do you know of anyone using horse stall matt? They sell it at tractor supply in different thicknesses. I have a sheet of 3/4".
Thank you I do not build airplanes, mostly just from lack of funds and a place to build it. However, I do small metal working projects, and this may work for them, tho the box itself will be much smaller.
Consider RF welding TPU to make your bladders. It costs pennies a bladder and stays glued inside the part. your latex bladder only last so long and then they break off inside the part as they age. The TPU stays bound to the epoxy forever.
Bladders?
Gracias por toda tu información
Is it reasonable to use pressed fiber glass epoxed with steel wool composite with such hydraulic hoist?
Nothing in is video is hydroforming related! What you do here is rubber stamp. Hydroforming involves injecting water (or liquid of sorts) under pressure.
Would any of these home shop methods work on regular sheet metal for old tractor parts?
might want to look into a more tonnage on the hydraulic jack...20 tons does not seem to be enough, to get fine detail.
The captions are a hoot - did you not think of checking them before publishing this?
what are the advantages of this type of forming vs a two piece die?
Corian is extremely lung hazardous according to my friend with slicosis.
@MichaelKingsfordGray Well, sure.. If you know to use safety precautions. Personally, I wasn't aware of the dangers.
use lubricant under the sheet metal too
When I was making countertops I would give the good customers a cutting board to match their countertops made out of that sink cutout run a router around it twice and poof happy people that get you more work.
Like the old joke, "To become a millionaire, first, get a million dollars." In this case, "To use this simple method of forming parts, first, get a die made."
@MichaelKingsfordGray but don't you need a backyard shed to do that?
Just have a company make it it won’t be that much then you can make 1,000 of them that die will last forever. If you don’t need large quantities then you shouldn’t even be looking at this method
@@MrKkdkk Just press your backyard shed out of aluminium with this device!
"First, you Die, Then you Fly!"
😁😃
What is the airframe at 3:18?
Every time Lemon Pledge was said I thought of Conswala from Family Guy.
How about forming Vehicle Replacement Floor Pans, from Sheet Steel? What kind of Press (Pressure) would that require?
How about Making the Dies in a "Progressive Step Sequence", where each Die moves the metal towards the Final shape a % of the movement at a time? Say, Die #1 moves the metal 25% of the target shape; then Die #2, another 25%; Die #3 - another 25%; & Due #4, the Last 25%?
This way, you could also have the Benefit of more steps with Lubricants allowing the Metal you are forming, to "Slide" as it moves, instead of "Gripping" to the Die, or the Rubber!
Wonder how a non newtonian fluid would work? How about plasticine? Silly putty (also non newtonian)? I think the harder rubber works because pressure is not lost from getting squeezed out the edges from sloppy fitting pressure plate. The inner tube rubber is much softer.
Good call . Why not ?
I only have Forest Fruit Pledge, will that be OK?
The rubber doesnt even have to be that thick either to get this effect. I can do this stuff with 1/8" thick Neoprene.
This video was very informative and a good alternative to the pressure washer technique. I'd love to try it but I only have pine pledge. Sigh.
Great job, thanks a lot
Have you ever tried hydro forming small stringers from 1/2 X 1/2 X 1/16T 2024T3? If so, can you give some recommendations? Examples of the blocks used?
I have not tried the use of the performer for stringers. It would seem that stringers would be easier to manufacture using a sheet-metal brake.
It seems that you are pressing on the end of a cylinder therefore damaging the plugger.
Awesome video 👍🏻
Thumbs up, what else? I'm speechless...
Consuela; "We need more Lemon Pledge". "We don't supply that. You should just bring it from home".
"Noooo"
Beat me to it. LOL
@@Kori114 yep me too. "You people need to bring your own lemon pledge..." "nooooo"
Shouldn´t the positioning pins be bolts with flat, circular heads without any corners and edges instead of hexagonal heads???
From another post "Use clevis pins for your locating pins"
print the die? or a resin print die?
Can a rubber water tank or bag do better than the rubber block? Between the them the rubber sheet is still essential?
Probly need to seal more tightly around the edges where the top-plate meets the box walls, but that should work .
If you had it as a water *tank* what would prevent the water from getting under the workpiece? Then, as you pressurize the water, wouldn't it just increase in pressure everywhere, both above and below the workpiece, thus doing nothing? This technique relies on increasing the pressure above the piece, while maintaining a low pressure below - that's what pushes parts of the workpiece downward.
The idea of a water bag is interesting, but you've already got what - 300-400 psi of pressure being generated? Now take that bag and bend it over a slightly sharp edge (say the points on one of those hex-head bolts.) You'd need some pretty strong bag material for it not to puncture. Use some rubber sheets between the bag and the workpiece you say? Then you've pretty much come full circle right back to where you've started, haven't you?
What is the airplane at 7:12 ?
STUPID QUESTION, BUT IS IT EVER PRACTICAL FROM A METAL-FATIGUE-DUE-TO-FORMING STANDPOINT OF, FOR EXAMPLE, GOING TO RIBS THAT ARE HALF AS THICK AND DOUBLING THEIR NUMBER? Sorry for the caps, wasn't watching.
Nice ! Is the name of the Aircraft @ 3:11 available, please...Thank You.
This was the EMG-5, the predecessor to the EMG-6 electric motor glider. The project was discontinued after the FAA's interpretation of part 103 mandating that batteries be considered part of the empty weight rather than as fuel. More information about the FAA interpretation on our website www.electricmotorglider.com
How did you cut out your template that accurately with those lugs?
Why no answer?
Subscribed :) Thank you for sharing this impressive process, seems like a nice pair to bucks which are 3D printed at 100% fill, or MDF routed with the affordable "Makesmith CNC" My question/request if you please:
Would you repeat your hydroforming technique with the use of fill from a $10 bag of "recycled rubber mulch" from a garden store? I know how useful a press is, but I'm interested in your assessment of the expensive rubber block compared to mulch. Many thanks again for this great video!!
I think you want sheet, in order to provide even pressure. Mulch would have all kinds of air gaps, and squeezing those out would divert some of the pressure. Also you might not have consistent rubber hardness, also there might be steel strands in shredded tires...
i am in lockdown otherwise i would OF NEVER WATCHED THIS VIDEO!
Which rubber do you use? We want to o the same in school.
American Floor mats.com Bounce back rubber tiles... cheap !
Why not use very fine sand, baking soda or glass?
For the love of all that is holy get the HF pnuematic jack for the press.
This is awesome. Im trying to use this technique to form some automotive panels.
Anymore advice would be great, ill have a closer look at you RUclips channel for more info.
Thanks
I was going to ask what you're building then realized... Torana, durr :-D I'm American. I checked out the startup, cool swap!
You should try PAM spray. It is more slick.
great video
new subscriber
cheers
I wonder if ballistic gelatin would work?
Great intrest but I never heard of fluting pliers what do they look like
Google "fluting pliers"