I'm not sure if you know just how intelligent you really are with this! I would crimp the end in the vise, maybe solder the end, and start to wind it up, roll the pipe up with a pair of needle nose pliers and you should get the "take up" or pre-pressurization/pre-stressing you're after. You're an amazing person and an infinite wealth of knowledge, I love your channel and videos! Thank you!!
Same deal folded/soldered one end filed and folded other end then froze it and it worked so much better no extra bending. Still gave me an oval pipe shape but not bad... for the cooling part of a ministill.
Thanks for the tips on making the copper coils method worked great. I felt I should share what I did to seal the ends. I flattened and folded each end over itself three times. Flattening each fold with my locking pliers as I went. I ended up clamping my locking pliers on each end and using my 1/4" impact with a hex head bit on the bottom of screw adjustment to tighten up my locking pliers as tight as possible. I did a ten foot long coil and didn't have an leaks or kinks in my copper tubing. Having the locking pliers attached seemed to help with coiling extra grip and leverage. Thanks for the great content
Harris makes some of the best soldier on the market. Composed of a Silver, Nickel, Copper, Antimony, and remainder Tin percentage wise. Started from least to most amount of metals. Great stuff for sure.
Its 100% air. I dont know how you're getting water in the tube, but think bleeding brakes. Any time you open a tube filled with fluid, you will trap air. Being a mechanical engineer, i'd recommend putting all your hardware on ends of your unformed coil and get a cheap fluid pump. Get a 5 gallon bucket filled with water and put the coil in the bucket with the outlet of the pump connected to one of the fittings. Put inlet of the pump in the bucket and pump till you see no more air coming out of the copper tube. Place the caps in the bucket and get all the air out of them. Place your caps on WHILE ITS IN THE BUCKET UNDER WATER. There is now no air at all in the line and there is no reason to pre-bend or kink as there is no air in it. Also.. another thing you can do, AFTER the coil is bent, is try using a pressure washer with a needle valve and a lot of caution. Colin Furze (sp?) Covered this as a feasible way to metal shape in his home made pulse jet video where he formed a pulse jet with a pressure washer, out of 2 completely flat plates that were welded together.
the music is disturbing when trying to follow the instructions. suggestion: make 2 videos: one who for the people who want to learn how to bend copper and one for the ones who want to dance, and if you want to do both simultaniously, you can open them in 2 tabs.
Instead of kinking the copper to increase the pressure, Try flattening the tube, that way as you start rolling the tubing should expand back out out as you bend, just an ideal.
My bit, i found that pipe used domestic is harder copper so fittings dont leak. Using these thinner tubes on stills is a tad softer and causes leaks when doing forming, solder just about best option. 👍thanks for sharing.
Yes ive bin having great success with sand , salt kills you as it pills into a solid like an asprin . I use pressurized water now for large tubes , i pump it up to 1000 psi with a grease gun and grease zirts
Nice demo. I think you alot disolved gas in your H20. I would use a vacuum pump & cold water trap to the tubing after you fill it to remove gases first and quickly cap it. You may now skip kinking. Water expands so use some heat to help keep tube roundness. I'm going try it just with flare nut seals after a good vacuum of the water. You may also use very fine blasting media or baking soda instead. Best wishes to all..
I know this video is years old but since you're so active I figure you'd see the comment. Consider making/adapting a mechanical plunger style hydraulic pump. Then you could just slip a nut over the end, flare it, fill the tube, attach and pressurize it (in theory). Loving you videos, you do some cool shit.
I will try folding the pipe on the lag end on the pipe so it will not get in the way until the end, keeping a undamaged lead end. I like the tutorial and thank you. It will make a perfect Johns coil for a reflux still.
Love your work. The old school is sand inside the pipe and heat using steel pipe to bend. Messy hard to get the sand out and doesn't like sharp turns sometimes folding. Aircraft pipes have any where from 3,000 to 10,000 PSI inside the pipe when being bent. On steel tubing used for brake lines, ferrules should not be used and some people do use them. They were designed to hold 75 PSI. working pressure not soldered. 75X3 equals 225 PSI it will Fail . Seen them go as high 450 psi and not fail and when it fail the thread let go. That's brass fittings that let go. Copper turns blue black and cracks with propane torch on copper. For bending: solder house hold outside garden taps with quart inch to half inch adapters open valves on taps before soldering not melt rubber washer. Take wife's hose off the washing machine and join to house tap water pressure. Put tubing under water and When it runs clear no air turn outlet on tube closed and screw cap on with no air inside valve and cape keeping it under water. Shut the other in let valve off holding pressure inside tube and cap it under water. Take the handles off the taps before bending . Loosen the screw on taps first before filling tube. Thank You for what You do for all of us take care be well and God Bless.
Try using sand blaster sand in the tubing and just hammer smash the two ends, perfect coils, no kinks. Just make it longer than you need then cut it off and put on the fitting you need.
Water as is the cases with all fluids are essentially incompressible, so I doubt that there is much pressure building up in the tube. Instead the shape or profile of the copper tube changes as it is bending around the mandrel. If the thickness of the copper tube stays the same as it is being bent, the volume will be constant, even though the shape of the tube is changing from circular to more oblong or elliptical.
@@NOBOX7 the key word is "essentially". For the pressure levels here, you can assume negligible compression of the water. That is, no change in volume. Gas compressibility is a different matter and would need to be accounted for. Look up Bulk Modulus of water and then get wise brother
Pretty extreme bends Man they used to do WW2 aircraft bends using dry sand then ends plugged with wooden wedges the sand being slightly abrasive does not flow. They had a few engine failures due to sand grains then switched to immersing the tube in a low melting point solder bath plugging the ends then cooling, bending and then melting out the solder. Certain alloys allegedly melt at just above the boiling point of water? But hey great work and amazing burner designs.
I would out a prv on the end just a suggestion. That way you know your not risking a huge blow out and it will still Stay under some good pressure. Also it wouldn't be as hard to bend. Just my two cents. Love your work man. Great stuff.
try blasting sand instead of water... no need for fittings and easier to clean after work is done... it does need to be sealed but you can hammer it on both ends...
I am wondering if you can help... I am wanting to add a copper coil around my portable generator exhaust. I have a carpet cleaning company and the equipment runs off the generator. I need to get 200 degree water out of it. I usually run about 400 psi but will have capabilities to reach 1000 psi. I believe I'm around 2gpm. My question is how do I know how thick a coil, how long and someone was saying I need a unloader valve before the heat exchanger and have it run back into the the fresh water tank with another coil to cool it down before it goes back in the fresh cold tank. Would you happen to have any input? Or anyone.... The other thing is our hoses are ⅜ thick.
You’re correct with your assumption the Copper Tubing is expanding. Water works well because Water does not compress. I think your idea of placing a Pressure Gauge to record pressure increases is smart. Since Water doesn’t Compress at some point the Copper Tubing is going to burst. I wonder if you determine the typical water pressure Tubing bursts. The addition of a properly adjusted high relief valve could release water before failure. I’ve bent tubing successfully with compacting Sand inside. Good luck
Great work and great end product. The coil looks perfect. The walls of the pipe stay round on a very tight curl. But the process to cap the ends was so difficult. It seems like it would be easier to squash the ends flat and then roll the ends up, or maybe pinch and bend up the ends and fill with hot solder and then squash the ends filled with hot solder. Or try to plug the ends and solder. Or plug the ends with rubber plugs held on by a steel clamp. I guess all those methods would be hard too and probably not as good. I understand now. And yes, it is a bit of work, but look at the amazing results. I have seen the same done with PVC pipe held open with air pressure while heat bending.
So not true LOL , dude why would you send people down that road ? Let me guess you've done it and it works ? cus it took be 9 hours to get salt out of a 4ft coil and i boiled it in water for 5 hrs
Remove all air-gas from water. For cheap vacuum source, use retired fridge compressor for light duty vacuum pump, make sure it has oil in it and a AC cap. across start terminal and common.
You do realize that when you drop the pressure of water, you also significantly lower its boiling point as well...dont you? Pulling a vacuum on water will cause it to boil in which case you will never get all the "air" out. Mainly because water is made up of 2 gasses. Just saying.
From the looks of the thread tape you could be winding it around the brass fitting backwards which is causing the cap not to seal on the threads just an observation but I didn't see you put it on to be sure just something to be aware of... Great vid
Your forgetting about the head space inside of the cap sand is the best way to go when harley Davidson bends the frame on there street sport model they use 35000 lbs of water pressure
@@NOBOX7 Clearly youtube francais has never tried pouring sand into a small diameter pipe that is coiled up. It takes forever. In regards to you having to kink the pipe to take up 'slack', I found this info on a scientific website.... "As water has a bulk modulus of 2.2×109 Pa, water is compressible, but it is not practically compressible for the least. In order to compress water, you would need so much pressure. Even at the deepest regions of our oceans, the density of water is only a little higher than that of the water at the surface, and the compression is approximately around 1.8% only." ..... So one would assume air is getting in the pipe. I have just made a 10mm copper coil to fit a 115mm diameter flue pipe on a stove. I tried filling it with sand but gave up and did it with no filling. It coiled round kink-free if I supported it well with my hands, however I felt that the pipe deformed from an 'O' to an oval shape more than I would have liked and it may affect the flow rate too much and cause the water to overheat in the coil. I will only know when I have built and installed the system. If I have to replace the coil I shall take heed of your video. Many thanks
The pressure in the pipe wouldn't change unless you added more water under pressure. You're not changing the volume of the pipe by coiling it. If you were rolling it up like a tube of toothpaste then yeah.
bro , bending the pipe compresses the inner corners , do this with a pressure gauge hooked up and get back to me. The only thing resisting the kink is the pressure of the water when the metal tries to bend it . you can even feel the pressure making the tube stiffer
@@NOBOX7 Ok Ill take your word for it. I tried rolling a piece of 1/2" yesterday with salt but i didnt like the size the roll came out in, I wanted it smaller like yours, so I'm gonna retry tomorrow with water. Thanks for the video and information.
If you put copper and iron together in water the galvanic corrosion will destroy the iron in a year or two even if the iron is galvanized! Been there, done that.
The first two threads should not have any pipe tape or pipe dope and you can tin your ferrows and tubing together or weld the ends together; personally I prefer filling tube with grease or fine sand
Use a grease gun and a one way check valve with fittings to pump up the copper coil with oil, this should allow grater control over pressure of the coil.
amzn.to/2F3uR7h Click that link and it will take you to an area on amazon that has these type of items. I am currently working on my own store front to sell hard to find items to help earn income . these items are not easy to find . it could take you days , its crazy . I hope this helps . the bag in this link has a very good size selection . but if you need coils of tubing let me know if you cant find it on this link
It seems to me that the technology is very complicated: you need to solder the fittings and after that also clamp the tube, while a lot of material goes to waste ... There are easier ways
I guess you want to stop pipe from kinking why not just solder up each end, when water is in, in as much as bend the pipe tight at the ends then solder up the bent over bit, no brass fittings, just solder it, I duno, never tried this myself, u maybe right in how your doing it, (maybe have compressed air in the tube)
I would have just flattened, folded and soldered the ends. I've done it before. Also if you were worried about steam, just fill it with GL5 and you will not only have no real vapor issues for soldering, but it will work as flux all on its own [not saying don't use flux though!] Then just roll the end up like a tube of toothpaste.
funny you say that ive showed over 190,000 people how to do just that , but its very dangerous for a novice , but seeing as how that video made me $120 for 20 minutes of work I figured id post a safe alternative , but i gotta admit im not a fan , the solder method is super fast method . i do recommend freezing the coil with soap in it if you have any really tight bends , i gues the soap stops th aice from bursting the piece your working .
Pure ice begins expanding at 19F typically, that is where the liquid water molecules migrate from down in the ice body out to the ends and merge with the crystals with some amazing force which can be thousands of pounds of force. By adding various impurities you reduce the percentage of the water molecules that can line up and crystallize based on the polar ionic attraction of species specific atomic electron charges. The addition of these ions interferes with the 'normal' ['ideal', but not 'typical'] water molecule bonding requiring that the water shed more of its internal energy to transition phases. Eventually, as you know, as the temperature drops, and 'heat energy' is subtracted from the mass equation, the polar attractions get stronger just like happens in magnets and superconductors [but keeping in mind that superconductors are diamagnetic while water is paramagnetic, therefore repelling, not attracting.], and this leads to an increasing electrical attraction, reaching 'past' and 'through' the various ions, depending on their own ionic valences, [some, such as ethanol, acetone, and ammonia being markedly stronger than others] while at the same time, the ions of many impurities will either seek out their own or will seek to form an azeotropic bond with water, such as is typical with higher ionic valence polar ketones, leading to a different form of 'ice' which is some times much harder and stronger, or at other times, after formation, gains a melting point ABOVE 32F because the fluids in question 'find each other' so to speak, developing something similar to a hydroxide, hydrate, or hydroxide group, with trace amounts of free hydrogen, and free oxygen dissolved in between the crystals, leading to long thin bubbles in the ice, and many times the hydroxides and hydroxyls will become a thick, viscous liquid and ooze out of 'pores' in the ice. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroxy_group When you do this, you create concentrated areas of a non-melting [or really lower melting point] liquid that exists between layers of crystals, often formed as 'flakes' like mica forms as a mineral, which are in some ways also like snow flakes, only without the gaps and without the [relative] uniformity of nuclear growth. These plates and their lubricating fluid allow the whole mass to conform under host or pressure ranges without imposing their own specific shape, nor being detrimentally [destructively] deformed in the process, and, of course, not crushing the way air would allow to happen.
Dude, if you're going to solder that compression fitting, why not sand and flux pipe and fitting as normal ? You've gained very little with laying the solder on top of the joint.
Do you know how to flare and use a proper flare fitting, , what exactly are you trying to accomplish, electric or steam cleaning, if you are searching for electricity you need a pressure tank and that's where it gets deadly, that's not a boiler, what you have is a exchanger, a boiler would allow higher pressure and it's why the laymen don't mess with it, boiler maker's are a special, educated and certified breed because of the danger associated with steam pressure and possible explosion not a fuel explosion but a high pressure high heat deadly situation
I'm not sure if you know just how intelligent you really are with this! I would crimp the end in the vise, maybe solder the end, and start to wind it up, roll the pipe up with a pair of needle nose pliers and you should get the "take up" or pre-pressurization/pre-stressing you're after. You're an amazing person and an infinite wealth of knowledge, I love your channel and videos! Thank you!!
Same deal folded/soldered one end filed and folded other end then froze it and it worked so much better no extra bending. Still gave me an oval pipe shape but not bad... for the cooling part of a ministill.
Thanks for the tips on making the copper coils method worked great. I felt I should share what I did to seal the ends. I flattened and folded each end over itself three times. Flattening each fold with my locking pliers as I went. I ended up clamping my locking pliers on each end and using my 1/4" impact with a hex head bit on the bottom of screw adjustment to tighten up my locking pliers as tight as possible. I did a ten foot long coil and didn't have an leaks or kinks in my copper tubing. Having the locking pliers attached seemed to help with coiling extra grip and leverage. Thanks for the great content
Harris makes some of the best soldier on the market. Composed of a Silver, Nickel, Copper, Antimony, and remainder Tin percentage wise. Started from least to most amount of metals. Great stuff for sure.
Its 100% air. I dont know how you're getting water in the tube, but think bleeding brakes. Any time you open a tube filled with fluid, you will trap air. Being a mechanical engineer, i'd recommend putting all your hardware on ends of your unformed coil and get a cheap fluid pump. Get a 5 gallon bucket filled with water and put the coil in the bucket with the outlet of the pump connected to one of the fittings. Put inlet of the pump in the bucket and pump till you see no more air coming out of the copper tube. Place the caps in the bucket and get all the air out of them. Place your caps on WHILE ITS IN THE BUCKET UNDER WATER. There is now no air at all in the line and there is no reason to pre-bend or kink as there is no air in it.
Also.. another thing you can do, AFTER the coil is bent, is try using a pressure washer with a needle valve and a lot of caution. Colin Furze (sp?) Covered this as a feasible way to metal shape in his home made pulse jet video where he formed a pulse jet with a pressure washer, out of 2 completely flat plates that were welded together.
the music is disturbing when trying to follow the instructions.
suggestion: make 2 videos: one who for the people who want to learn how to bend copper and one for the ones who want to dance, and if you want to do both simultaniously, you can open them in 2 tabs.
Instead of kinking the copper to increase the pressure, Try flattening the tube, that way as you start rolling the tubing should expand back out out as you bend, just an ideal.
Instablaster...
Thank you man. Exactly what i was looking for, worked like a charm.
Come for the flame throwers and waste oil burners, stay for the great fabrication/prototyping tech tips!
Cut a notch in your 2nd pipe to allow it to slip over the copper will help start your second wrap.
My bit, i found that pipe used domestic is harder copper so fittings dont leak. Using these thinner tubes on stills is a tad softer and causes leaks when doing forming, solder just about best option. 👍thanks for sharing.
I have used sand and water ..Pack in the sand with water and frozen,it helps stop the tube from collapsing.I ve done this with stainless 304 SS
Yes ive bin having great success with sand , salt kills you as it pills into a solid like an asprin . I use pressurized water now for large tubes , i pump it up to 1000 psi with a grease gun and grease zirts
Nice demo. I think you alot disolved gas in your H20.
I would use a vacuum pump & cold water trap to the tubing after you fill it to remove gases first and quickly cap it. You may now skip kinking. Water expands so use some heat to help keep tube roundness. I'm going try it just with flare nut seals after a good vacuum of the water. You may also use very fine blasting media or baking soda instead. Best wishes to all..
great input ,thanks friend
I know this video is years old but since you're so active I figure you'd see the comment. Consider making/adapting a mechanical plunger style hydraulic pump. Then you could just slip a nut over the end, flare it, fill the tube, attach and pressurize it (in theory). Loving you videos, you do some cool shit.
Turn your channel lock pliers around, you are using them backwards, try it you will like it
YOU ARE A GREAT SOUL FOR POSTING FAILURES!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOU SAVED ME TONS OF SCREW UPS !!!!!
I will try folding the pipe on the lag end on the pipe so it will not get in the way until the end, keeping a undamaged lead end. I like the tutorial and thank you. It will make a perfect Johns coil for a reflux still.
Love your work. The old school is sand inside the pipe and heat using steel pipe to bend. Messy hard to get the sand out and doesn't like sharp turns sometimes folding. Aircraft pipes have any where from 3,000 to 10,000 PSI inside the pipe when being bent. On steel tubing used for brake lines, ferrules should not be used and some people do use them. They were designed to hold 75 PSI. working pressure not soldered. 75X3 equals 225 PSI it will Fail . Seen them go as high 450 psi and not fail and when it fail the thread let go. That's brass fittings that let go. Copper turns blue black and cracks with propane torch on copper. For bending: solder house hold outside garden taps with quart inch to half inch adapters open valves on taps before soldering not melt rubber washer. Take wife's hose off the washing machine and join to house tap water pressure. Put tubing under water and When it runs clear no air turn outlet on tube closed and screw cap on with no air inside valve and cape keeping it under water. Shut the other in let valve off holding pressure inside tube and cap it under water. Take the handles off the taps before bending . Loosen the screw on taps first before filling tube. Thank You for what You do for all of us take care be well and God Bless.
Try using sand blaster sand in the tubing and just hammer smash the two ends, perfect coils, no kinks. Just make it longer than you need then cut it off and put on the fitting you need.
I have never tried sand but i will some day , but i know salt does not work and it takes a long time .
Good idea.
Water as is the cases with all fluids are essentially incompressible, so I doubt that there is much pressure building up in the tube. Instead the shape or profile of the copper tube changes as it is bending around the mandrel. If the thickness of the copper tube stays the same as it is being bent, the volume will be constant, even though the shape of the tube is changing from circular to more oblong or elliptical.
Not rue , water and all matter is compressible , get wise brother .
@@NOBOX7 the key word is "essentially".
For the pressure levels here, you can assume negligible compression of the water. That is, no change in volume.
Gas compressibility is a different matter and would need to be accounted for.
Look up Bulk Modulus of water and then get wise brother
Pretty extreme bends Man they used to do WW2 aircraft bends using dry sand then ends plugged with wooden wedges the sand being slightly abrasive does not flow. They had a few engine failures due to sand grains then switched to immersing the tube in a low melting point solder bath plugging the ends then cooling, bending and then melting out the solder. Certain alloys allegedly melt at just above the boiling point of water? But hey great work and amazing burner designs.
Be carful with liquid metal ideas , i lost my ars in gallium one week , it did not go as planned and im not sure i would ever try metal filler again
I would out a prv on the end just a suggestion. That way you know your not risking a huge blow out and it will still Stay under some good pressure. Also it wouldn't be as hard to bend. Just my two cents. Love your work man. Great stuff.
try blasting sand instead of water... no need for fittings and easier to clean after work is done... it does need to be sealed but you can hammer it on both ends...
Crimp the end, solder or braze the start end to manage thru the pipes. Less fittings
Would compression fittings with a cap achieve the same thing at the ends of the pipe?
yes if you use good ones
What is the max PSI that 3/8 copper tubing can handle when using as a heat exchanger?
I am wondering if you can help... I am wanting to add a copper coil around my portable generator exhaust. I have a carpet cleaning company and the equipment runs off the generator. I need to get 200 degree water out of it. I usually run about 400 psi but will have capabilities to reach 1000 psi. I believe I'm around 2gpm.
My question is how do I know how thick a coil, how long and someone was saying I need a unloader valve before the heat exchanger and have it run back into the the fresh water tank with another coil to cool it down before it goes back in the fresh cold tank.
Would you happen to have any input? Or anyone.... The other thing is our hoses are ⅜ thick.
You’re correct with your assumption the Copper Tubing is expanding. Water works well because Water does not compress. I think your idea of placing a Pressure Gauge to record pressure increases is smart. Since Water doesn’t Compress at some point the Copper Tubing is going to burst. I wonder if you determine the typical water pressure Tubing bursts. The addition of a properly adjusted high relief valve could release water before failure. I’ve bent tubing successfully with compacting Sand inside. Good luck
Hello friend thanks for your input , i have tried slat but not sand , the salt turns into a pill and will not come out , does this happen with sand ?
@@NOBOX7
Does the salt pill dissolve in water and wash away?
Subscribed based on the title. Cheers. Awesome idea. Beautiful. Simplicity at its best.
Thanks friend , glad to have you
You could also fill the tube with pitch before bending, more difficult, but very effective
hmm never herd of that , i tried to look up pitch , lol no luck
use a powder instead of Water in the Pipe, on both end onlly a Metalbowl inside the Cap som compress the powder(sand) if you srewe the endcaps on
Try annealing , it would help softening the copper.
Great work and great end product. The coil looks perfect. The walls of the pipe stay round on a very tight curl. But the process to cap the ends was so difficult. It seems like it would be easier to squash the ends flat and then roll the ends up, or maybe pinch and bend up the ends and fill with hot solder and then squash the ends filled with hot solder. Or try to plug the ends and solder. Or plug the ends with rubber plugs held on by a steel clamp. I guess all those methods would be hard too and probably not as good. I understand now. And yes, it is a bit of work, but look at the amazing results. I have seen the same done with PVC pipe held open with air pressure while heat bending.
Would filling it with baking soda work?
Screw cap is probably only rated @ 150 lbs. Your super blue tape only needs 1 and half turns of blue tape at most.
Fill with table salt, crimp ends,
easier than sand to remove with water.
So not true LOL , dude why would you send people down that road ? Let me guess you've done it and it works ? cus it took be 9 hours to get salt out of a 4ft coil and i boiled it in water for 5 hrs
Remove all air-gas from water. For cheap vacuum source, use retired fridge compressor for light duty vacuum pump, make sure it has oil in it and a AC cap. across start terminal and common.
Good idea, most people dont realize how compressible water is
You do realize that when you drop the pressure of water, you also significantly lower its boiling point as well...dont you? Pulling a vacuum on water will cause it to boil in which case you will never get all the "air" out. Mainly because water is made up of 2 gasses. Just saying.
Cooler for the distiller ??
From the looks of the thread tape you could be winding it around the brass fitting backwards which is causing the cap not to seal on the threads just an observation but I didn't see you put it on to be sure just something to be aware of... Great vid
What size coil is that an u do a half in
Your forgetting about the head space inside of the cap sand is the best way to go when harley Davidson bends the frame on there street sport model they use 35000 lbs of water pressure
sand is to hard to get out of a complex coil , it takes hours and getting it in aint so easy
the head space is also filled with water via submersion
water is to mutch compressable , use cheap solder end cap , fill the tube with fine sand et voila
never using sand or salt again
@@NOBOX7 Clearly youtube francais has never tried pouring sand into a small diameter pipe that is coiled up. It takes forever.
In regards to you having to kink the pipe to take up 'slack', I found this info on a scientific website....
"As water has a bulk modulus of 2.2×109 Pa, water is compressible, but it is not practically compressible for the least. In order to compress water, you would need so much pressure. Even at the deepest regions of our oceans, the density of water is only a little higher than that of the water at the surface, and the compression is approximately around 1.8% only." ..... So one would assume air is getting in the pipe.
I have just made a 10mm copper coil to fit a 115mm diameter flue pipe on a stove. I tried filling it with sand but gave up and did it with no filling. It coiled round kink-free if I supported it well with my hands, however I felt that the pipe deformed from an 'O' to an oval shape more than I would have liked and it may affect the flow rate too much and cause the water to overheat in the coil. I will only know when I have built and installed the system. If I have to replace the coil I shall take heed of your video. Many thanks
why not just use a soldered end cap?
maybe a double flare brake system type connectors would work better
they are good for thousands of pounds pressure
The pressure in the pipe wouldn't change unless you added more water under pressure. You're not changing the volume of the pipe by coiling it. If you were rolling it up like a tube of toothpaste then yeah.
bro , bending the pipe compresses the inner corners , do this with a pressure gauge hooked up and get back to me. The only thing resisting the kink is the pressure of the water when the metal tries to bend it . you can even feel the pressure making the tube stiffer
@@NOBOX7 Ok Ill take your word for it. I tried rolling a piece of 1/2" yesterday with salt but i didnt like the size the roll came out in, I wanted it smaller like yours, so I'm gonna retry tomorrow with water. Thanks for the video and information.
If you put copper and iron together in water the galvanic corrosion will destroy the iron in a year or two even if the iron is galvanized! Been there, done that.
Salt or fine sand. Kink ends.
It's better for this then stay brit. And way not just braze the ends ?
hows about putting really cold water in the tube then heating, give it some bleed off to ensure the tube is completely filled
That is a brilliant comment , and it would work water expands 4 times as much as copper as it heats up
The first two threads should not have any pipe tape or pipe dope and you can tin your ferrows and tubing together or weld the ends together; personally I prefer filling tube with grease or fine sand
Yeah this video is to save people from making that mistake . water is instant removal
Hey thanks for the pipe tape input, i admit i never learned the proper way to use it
fill the pipe with sand...….fine sand.
Use a grease gun and a one way check valve with fittings to pump up the copper coil with oil, this should allow grater control over pressure of the coil.
Use vegetable oil instead of water.
What is the difference? What does vegetable oil do?
Thanks brother
Glad to help home boy
May I ask you where you acquire your copper tubing? I need some, in very exact diameters...hope you can help!
amzn.to/2F3uR7h Click that link and it will take you to an area on amazon that has these type of items. I am currently working on my own store front to sell hard to find items to help earn income . these items are not easy to find . it could take you days , its crazy . I hope this helps . the bag in this link has a very good size selection . but if you need coils of tubing let me know if you cant find it on this link
Thanking you for sharing your experience and knowledge!
It seems to me that the technology is very complicated: you need to solder the fittings and after that also clamp the tube, while a lot of material goes to waste ... There are easier ways
I guess you want to stop pipe from kinking why not just solder up each end, when water is in, in as much as bend the pipe tight at the ends then solder up the bent over bit, no brass fittings, just solder it, I duno, never tried this myself, u maybe right in how your doing it, (maybe have compressed air in the tube)
ruclips.net/video/P6LrTAQyvb0/видео.html
i mention that in the video , i also have a video on that
I would have just flattened, folded and soldered the ends. I've done it before. Also if you were worried about steam, just fill it with GL5 and you will not only have no real vapor issues for soldering, but it will work as flux all on its own [not saying don't use flux though!] Then just roll the end up like a tube of toothpaste.
ruclips.net/video/P6LrTAQyvb0/видео.html
funny you say that ive showed over 190,000 people how to do just that , but its very dangerous for a novice , but seeing as how that video made me $120 for 20 minutes of work I figured id post a safe alternative , but i gotta admit im not a fan , the solder method is super fast method . i do recommend freezing the coil with soap in it if you have any really tight bends , i gues the soap stops th aice from bursting the piece your working .
whats Gl5 ? by the way youtube comments are officially broke , i get about 5% . i often find comments people i know left that i had no idea existed
GL5 is 'Gear Lube Class 5"
Pure ice begins expanding at 19F typically, that is where the liquid water molecules migrate from down in the ice body out to the ends and merge with the crystals with some amazing force which can be thousands of pounds of force.
By adding various impurities you reduce the percentage of the water molecules that can line up and crystallize based on the polar ionic attraction of species specific atomic electron charges.
The addition of these ions interferes with the 'normal' ['ideal', but not 'typical'] water molecule bonding requiring that the water shed more of its internal energy to transition phases.
Eventually, as you know, as the temperature drops, and 'heat energy' is subtracted from the mass equation, the polar attractions get stronger just like happens in magnets and superconductors [but keeping in mind that superconductors are diamagnetic while water is paramagnetic, therefore repelling, not attracting.], and this leads to an increasing electrical attraction, reaching 'past' and 'through' the various ions, depending on their own ionic valences, [some, such as ethanol, acetone, and ammonia being markedly stronger than others] while at the same time, the ions of many impurities will either seek out their own or will seek to form an azeotropic bond with water, such as is typical with higher ionic valence polar ketones, leading to a different form of 'ice' which is some times much harder and stronger, or at other times, after formation, gains a melting point ABOVE 32F because the fluids in question 'find each other' so to speak, developing something similar to a hydroxide, hydrate, or hydroxide group, with trace amounts of free hydrogen, and free oxygen dissolved in between the crystals, leading to long thin bubbles in the ice, and many times the hydroxides and hydroxyls will become a thick, viscous liquid and ooze out of 'pores' in the ice.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroxy_group
When you do this, you create concentrated areas of a non-melting [or really lower melting point] liquid that exists between layers of crystals, often formed as 'flakes' like mica forms as a mineral, which are in some ways also like snow flakes, only without the gaps and without the [relative] uniformity of nuclear growth.
These plates and their lubricating fluid allow the whole mass to conform under host or pressure ranges without imposing their own specific shape, nor being detrimentally [destructively] deformed in the process, and, of course, not crushing the way air would allow to happen.
Music confuses the brain trying to listen to what you are saying.
Music,, ,, why??
I fill mine with Vodka from my still, no waste.
LOLOLOL
The background music is absolutely horrible and annoying, otherwise great video.
Did you say "WATER?"
What the heck, by golly, woo doggy is sodder?
groovytastic
8mm??????
Dude, if you're going to solder that compression fitting, why not sand and flux pipe and fitting as normal ? You've gained very little with laying the solder on top of the joint.
Its acid core solder no flux or sanding needed .
Compression fittings are better
WE better use Sand.
Fill it with sand
try pipe dope instead of tape
Do you know how to flare and use a proper flare fitting, , what exactly are you trying to accomplish, electric or steam cleaning, if you are searching for electricity you need a pressure tank and that's where it gets deadly, that's not a boiler, what you have is a exchanger, a boiler would allow higher pressure and it's why the laymen don't mess with it, boiler maker's are a special, educated and certified breed because of the danger associated with steam pressure and possible explosion not a fuel explosion but a high pressure high heat deadly situation
Greg , stop being such a looser man , you really are killing yourself with that shty attitude , get saved find Christ
schraeder fitting each end and nitrogen fill...……..
Other people fill with lead instead of water
Compression fittings suck!
Yes they do , i told some people they was only rated for 35 psi and they laughed at me , i think 35 is really pushing it