Sold ? Just because they didn't open it in the time of 5 minutes didn't mean shit !! They were able to get the crowbar in duhhh any thief is gonna get in either way just with a bit more time. We were robbed by the thief torching the door off on one safe and another they drilled a hole in the dial which they didn't open but ruined it and now we need to open it somehow !!! NOW INSTEAD WILL GET RID OF THE GUNS ALL TOGETHER !!! WASTE OF OUR GOOD HARD EARNED MONEY !!!
i noticed when they 1st started on the liberty the bottom corner was starting to give and they immediately moved to the middle and started slipping like people trying to sell you something on an infomercial do.
Notice that they cut the camera. They basically teleported to the middle during second 13 of the counter at 3:50. Although to me it looks like the reason they moved was because they couldn't get the wedge into the gap so they decided to move up after trying for a while. Even though it lifted a little, the gap was too tight and they couldn't get underneath for a really good pry. It actually looked like they tried harder on the Liberty. They were putting some serious force into it and were visibly exhausted at the end.
Just a note for those who are whining about how a minute or two longer and they would have gotten into the safe; all safes can be opened with enough time. Many extremely high-cost safes, such as safes the government and military use for locking up firearms or secure documents, are rated by how long it will take for them to be accessed. The actual safe says it can withstand "X" minutes or hours of serious penetration attacks. No matter how much you spend, enough time will mean the safe is open. The goal is to make it take too long to be worth doing so. Just bolting the safe down will add a lot of time for penetrating the safe.
Bolting them down is key. If they can't tip it over then they lose leverage. If it's not bolted down they can just jack it up and take it out the door.
@@beebob1279 Also, if a safe cannot be tipped over, the two thieves cannot work together as effectively because they will constantly get in each other's way.
@@murumariesattigit9783 Yep, look at the door on a Graffunder safe. Door gap so tight you can't even insert a credit card. Of course, they cost 3 times as much as a Liberty, but nobody is getting in without a cutting torch.
I have the same safe in the video but with mechanical dial. What I like about it is that it is made in the USA, does not hide the type of metal used and has a decent fire rating. Now to all those complaining it's a low cost safe so don't expect bank vault security. But if you look at actual crime stats most break ins are smash and grab. If you secure the safe to the floor and wall in a small closet it will defeat almost all would be thieves. It's not the movies guys don't come armed with cutting torches. Most usually only use a very small pry bar if that. When it comes to safes unless you are spending $2500 and up there is not a huge difference in materials used.
Just like shot placement is key in how you stop a bad guy with your gun, Its the same concept for a safe. 1. Bolt it down. that defeats smash and grab if they cant haul it away quickly. And defeats all those videos where they knock the safe on its back to work on it and open it in minutes. 2. Don't expose the sides which are the weakness of affordable safes. Put it in a closet, of better yet, do what i did. Basement. Corner where two sides are up against thick foundation walls and then build a wall on the exposed side. Only way to a BOLTED DOWN safe is the front door which is the hardest to defeat if you cant get leverage with prying tools. Even sawsaw and angle grinders will need a lot more time to defeat the door than cutting the thin single wall of the sides. 4. you did invest in an alarm system for your home, right? No time for that burglar to even THINK of cutting open the safe. He's a man in a hurry and that clock is ticking to the cops arriving. 5. I have dogs. Good luck trying to get to my alarm fast enough to disable it with two cocker spaniels tripping you up and biting you as you try to beat the dialer on the alarm before it summons help. Did you cut the phone lines? pffft! too bad its a cellular link. Get to the breaker box? It has battery backup. Get my drift? don't spend thousands on the safe. Layer your security. Be smart. then any safe will do the job. I still opted for a Liberty Franklin for the warranty and support and the fact that its MADE in the USA. The fire rating of over an hour is more than meets my requirement. If It burns or gets damaged by a thief who tries his luck at quickly prying to see if he can get in in a hurry. I get a new one. Hope this helps.
Nothing is fool proof and nothing is unbeatable but buying a good safe is always a great idea. Even if you put it in a corner and everything else, that door is exposed and a good safe is the only option if you really want to delay a theft. Out of everything you said the one thing that jumped out at me, and the one thing that is probably more useful than all the rest, is your dogs and the fact they are small. Small dogs are only good for the bark they provide and even that is less useful than larger dogs because people are used to hearing cocker spaniels etc bark all the time. It is what they do even if yours don't do it people expect it and pay little attention to them. Your cocker spaniels would most likely be kicked across the room/killed in an actual robbery so I think you are a bit optimistic at the security they provide. I always tell people that having dogs are your best home security option but try and have at least one large intimidating/capable dog like a German Shephard, Pitbull, Mastif, Rotty etc. People pay attention to their barks and thieves are worried they can't guard against an attack by them (because they can't really) so they are as much a deterrent than anything else.
Just purchased the Liberty Revolution and I am quite pleased. I think we all need to remember it's an "entry level" safe...not Fort Knox...for the price I paid, it keeps my kids out and a burglar would definitely think twice...not to mention I bolted it to the foundation :-)
This also shows the importance of having a safe bolted down. Its harder to pry in an upright position (less leverage). Having a safe bolted down with the side of the door that opens next to a wall helps,, too. (Restricts motion of travel of prybars). Great video.
What I find amazing is how the company who is sponsoring the test safes always does the best. I'd really like to see an independent group do the test this way there is no conflict of interest or least the appearance of it. Sorry I'm just been around too long and skeptical of what I see.
There are plenty of videos on youtube doing just that. And all the safes fail equally. Bottom line is they don't have a rating. They have very thin metal construction and any decent angle grinder will make short work of them. The DOOR is typically the strongest part of any safe... that's where most of the engineering and tech goes to. With the angle grinder, you can literally cut open the entire side or back of these type safes in seconds.... they're a joke. Understanding safe RATINGS is probably the best thing for anyone looking to get a real safe.
This already exists. It's called the Underwriter Laboratories, or UL, and they have a series of intense attack tests they perform on safes. Most gun safes are not constructed to survive the UL tooled attack tests, as most gun safes are designed to give the appearance of security more than they are to actually provide security. A lot of gun safe makers will have their safes certified by the UL for what is called the RSC-I or Residential Security Container Level I rating. This, however, more or less says it is a locking box, as this particular attack is a single person attack with small hand tools. The first rating that signifies a safe with actual grit is the RSC Level II, and this is a relatively newer rating. Unlike RSC-I, the attack test used for RSC-II is quite intense, and similar to the UL's attack test used to certify mid-high-security tool-resistant safes (e.g. TL-15, TL-30, TL-15x6, TL-30x6).
They didn’t do the same process on the liberty as they did with the other two. Give me a hand held 10” cutting blade and I’d be in the side of there in less than 10 minutes
@GregMF well then I'll be getting what I paid for since the safe is rated and UL certified to withstand an attack by one man with hand tools for 5 minutes.
The two guys with prybars should take some acting courses... you can clearly see that they are faking the attack with the last safe (liberty). On the other 2 they focused the attack on the same corner until 1 bar broke up and then moved up to the following. In the last one they are doing random attacks, effectively distributing the surface on all the door and not focusing strength on one point...
Force is not everything.. you can clearly see in the previous two safes that they are not just using force but using it with intelligence. They follow a technique... (1) the smaller pry bar makes its way into the crack leaving space for the larger one, (2) only one bolt is attacked at a time, when it breaks they pass on to the next one. On the third safe, on the contrary, they seem to be proceeding randomly.
Please remember that if someone wants in, then they'll find a way to get in. A safe is just your best effort to secure things that are important and valuable to you...so buy quality and bolt it down as best as you can. Notice how it takes 2 grown men to get it to open...but how they also need to lay it down to get the downward leverage they need.
Also depends on gauge of steel (thickness)…. These safes are probably 14 gauge which is easiest to pry… 10 gauge is 4 x’s stronger? I’d rather have 10 gauge with roll bars than 14 gauge and military bars.
some of these comments.... I don't care what safe you own, you're buying time. Plasma cutters will get through anything. 99% of all thefts are smash and grabs. A safe like this one will do the job 99% of the time. Thats why you beef up your other defenses. Alarms, guard dogs etc. Your average middle class gun owner will not need more than this.
the point here is bolt the goddam thing to the ground and build around so the side is not essay to access and pay for a good alarm. the safe is to slow the thief while cop are on the way!
In fairness, safes would typically be anchored down to the ground, so laying them down to get that extra leverage is kinda cheating. Also the locations of safes are typically inside of closets and in the corner, so a lot of spots will have a wall where they would need to pry.
I would like to see if the safe opens after the pry test. Assuming its protected the weapons inside and the robbers give up, can the owner of the safe enter the combination and open it?
Looks like a good safe, I mean unless you are going to spend 10,000 on a custom made safe, which can also be broken into, just takes longer. I think that Liberty should make the gaps closer though, tighter the fit, harder to get a bar in it, in the first place. Nothing beats solid thicker steel though.
@@beebob1279 uuuhhh yeah about that.... he contradicts himself in his second video. I personally spoke with Kirk from the first video (CE Safes) as well as Tony from the second video VaultPro. Both of those individuals are the experts in those vidoes and neither of them do direct business with Weapons Education due to legal issues. BTW Vault Pro makes some seriously impressive safes and they are all hand made here in the USA, top quality stuff. CE Safes has lots of different price points in their inventory and some quality safes as well.
You get splitting axes and sledgehammers n pound the axe heads into the door grove and it forces the wall out and the pins pop right open, under 2 min from experience, ya these might keep someone out for a lil longer if they use pry bars but axe heads are the best, it wedges em open
If a person knows what they are doing, they attack the weakest part of a safe, prying is not the way. Angle grinder will cut open the side or back in seconds. Even Liberty's "Presidential" safe which is their best...... has NO RATING listed on their website. It's amazing that people buy this safe for THOUSANDS of dollars. I bought a TR-30 rated safe for under 2 grand. If you dropped my safe on the Liberty Presidential model... mine would literally crush it flat LOL. Will Liberty safe's stop a standard criminal... probably. Will it stop anyone who knows anything about safes.... not a chance. Even my safe will only last 30 minutes under attacks from torches and grinding tools.
the big deterrent is, out of sight out of mind. Don't advertise to people that you have a safe in the house either. It's amazing how much information is spilled just in casual conversation. Also, bolt that sucker down. don't make it easy for the thief if they actually have bars to pry it open.
Most of the comments are a little ridicules, as any safe of the caliber of those tested can be opened. However, even a cheap safe bolted down inside a closet with limited access will be very hard to defeat..
Umm they got that liberty safe open if you watch carefully the top was off, one or two minutes they would of got in, by the way that safe landed it sounded like cheap steel so a power saw would do the trick.
It is cheap steel. Even the $2k+ Liberty safes are only 11ga steel (the cheap ones are 12ga) Stack two pennies and that's how thin the steel is for the body.
I want to see a fire axe attack on your safe. Pry attacks are not the only way to break in. If the body material is not think enough, a few swings from a heady duty axe will go straight through.
Just got one I know their cheap and provide limited security from professional thieves but with the flat locking bars and bolted to the floor it’s gonna slow the thieves down.
I'm thinking about buying a lower end Liberty Safe in the $700 range. I believe the safe will keep my grandkids out and hopefully delay a burglar. I think you have to couple the safe with a good security system and good homeowner insurance. Also weight the safe down so it cannot be easily carried off to a waiting truck for future demolition. Think lead weight.
@@bensmith4563 Can't do it with a post tension slab unless you hire someone with a detector to determine where the tension hardware is located in the slab. Also, most bolted safes can be pried out of the concrete. Powers wedge bolts resist prying the best. The best we can hope for is delaying a safe attack. If a burglar has time, any safe installation will be defeated. Best if the safe is not visible at all. I've been through all this.
bolt your safe down people! notice how all of them were on their backs. put it in a closet and bolt it down....now try prying. cant get as much leverage. liberty did best....but any safe is vulnerable on its back.
They should have just either A, put a rare earth magnet on front to pop the electronic solenoid or B pushed it on the front and worked on the back... that back will open up like a tin can. That is why you bolt them to the floor when you get it home.
Gun safe companies need to do some thing about the side. Someone with an angle grinder is getting through, normally not bothering with the front of the door
gun safe companies HAVE done something about the sides..... but most dont want to pay for thicker steel, and multiple layers of steel. im looking at a HOMELAND safe which as 7 gauge steel body. they even make 4 gauge!
On the ones I've looked at, the bars are equal, including Liberty. They're fixed bars rather than sliders. Because of the hinge it would actually take longer to pry from that side.
Because everyone lays a safe on it's back to break into it. Try some real world tests where the safe is bolted to the floor and wall, where you have no room for long pry bars.
+studinthemaking Think like a bad guy who doesn't know if the homeowner will be home soon or not. He wants to crack that thing open ASAP and put all the contents in his truck and get out. Any safe that takes longer than 30 seconds.. or is bolted to the floor, will immediately send him down the street to an easier target
ok, i have a legitimate question. Liberty please answer. This is one of the most common questions I here all the time and am curious about myself. If these military bars are better, why not include them on the revere and higher safes. The revere have traditional bolts, do y our anti pry tabs make up for this? And if the bars are better, i dont understand why you would charge more for less, being bars for bolts on higher priced models.
Because it's a sales pitch. Military style. Really??? They just want it to sound secure while it is nothing more than a piece of mild steel. It's a way of getting more money. The same way our government gets more money out of a budget by allocating funds for hexagonal graphite recording devices. They would not get as much money if they just said they needed pencils. Food for thought.
So the guy that was really good at prying suddenly sucked when he got to the liberty safe, also they did not stay focused on 1 corner like they did on the 1st two, so in my opinion they tainted this entire test.
All these gun safes can be broken into. I have bought some "real" safes and converted them to gun safes. The gap around the door is less than 1/32 of an inch and no pry bar is getting in there.
I see a few flaws in your pry test. First of all, most people that have a gun safe, have it bolted to the floor or wall or both so, there would be no tipping it over to get more leverage. 2.........if you're like me, you have it tucked in the back of a closet and the open side is near a wall so that the door has plenty of clearance when you swing it open. So again, no room for a pry bar.
They are not safes, but steel cabinets. 3mm of steel and few layers of drywall are securing your stuff only from fire. Even for small angle grinder it's under a minute to cut that "safe" in half. For me something called "safe" must have at least 2 layers of steel (8mm + 3mm on door, and 5mm + 3mm on walls) and at least 40-50mm of reinforced concrete between layers of steel. IDK what American law describes as safe, but most of it is not safe at all.
A regular criminal go most likely catch more hell trying to opening a safe if they have a crow bar. Even if you just have a gun cabin yeah it can be broke into much easier but by the time they try to get the guns and stuff , hell the metal still go give them hell with trying to bending and opening the dam lock. They will be seen or caught.
Boy if a safe only takes 5 minutes of prying, it’s not much of a safe. Just because it didn’t open in this test, doesn’t mean it’s a good safe. I want mine to take more than a couple hours not a less then ten minutes. Best way to avoid this is to get a safe with little to no door gap (see Graffunder, Brown, and American Security), as well as to bolt it down so it can’t be pushed over. It will always be harder to pry standing up. Overall this made me even less likely to buy a Liberty. Also, if you have the money, purchase a safe with a TL rating NOT an RSC rating.
Cordless circle saw and maybe an extra battery would make quick work of the side of that cabinet. Pry tests are BS why would you go the hardest possible route to get into a “safe”. The shell is probably at most 1/8” steel, with dry wall and carpet on the inside.
Sure hope you bolt this light "safe" down....its easier to take out then to break in. A entry level RSC....not a safe. Just make sure you know the difference. Makes me cringe how easily that 12G steel flexes.
@@Ghost.uppercut This was my thought after looking at these safes. I think with the right technique you could avoid doing to much damage to the rifles, but then I got to wondering if a 120v plasma would manage it if you had it bolted down and they had to work inside. Not many people have 240 in the closet :)
Thieves don't even need to use the lower power battery powered grinders... Most people have a plug within 10 ft of their safe. A multi-purpose blade in a circular saw would take the whole front of the safe off in less than 10 minutes.
Real criminals won't use prybars. They will use a concrete saw which will open any Liberty safe in a few minutes. Get at least a TL-30x6 safe if you want security.
Watch the video again and watch how the guy in the gray shirt tackles and prys open the first two safes, watch the angle of his crowbar then when he gets to the liberty safe watch the angles of his crowbar!! a bit different I would say!! this is fake, they could have gotten into that liberty safe just as easy!!
Hey liberty I'll put my cheap safe up against yours if you will replace mine with a nice new liberty that i can improve check out the video of my stack on
What a joke they didn’t want to work on that bottom corner, that safe sucks did you notice how the side wall was crushing and they stopped prying on it when it started to open it makes you know they are liers
Better hope you're not sending a shower of sparks from your electric saw into a stockpile of gunpowder stored in the safe (to protect it from humidity and house fires)...
This test was actually impressive because the Liberty safe is UL rated at level 1 security which means it is tested to survive for 5 minutes minimum against attacks by ONE MAN with tools. In this test, it survived more than 5 minutes with attacks by TWO MEN with tools, which puts it actually closer to Security level 2.
safes dont work on hinge security....hinges on the outside allow for full opening. interior hinges allow for only 90 degrees of opening. slice off the hinges and its still locked.
LMFAO this is more of an AD than an “independent” test. Such bs! This was totally defeatable. *conflict of interest* why would workers/employees of THEIR own company actually try and defeat their own product. I wouldn’t, and they sure didn’t (intentionally)
i noticed when they 1st started on the liberty the bottom corner was starting to give and they immediately moved to the middle and started slipping like people trying to sell you something on an infomercial do.
I was skeptical until I heard him said that they promised to try really hard on the Liberty safe. I’m sold.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Sold ? Just because they didn't open it in the time of 5 minutes didn't mean shit !! They were able to get the crowbar in duhhh any thief is gonna get in either way just with a bit more time. We were robbed by the thief torching the door off on one safe and another they drilled a hole in the dial which they didn't open but ruined it and now we need to open it somehow !!! NOW INSTEAD WILL GET RID OF THE GUNS ALL TOGETHER !!! WASTE OF OUR GOOD HARD EARNED MONEY !!!
Lol
i noticed when they 1st started on the liberty the bottom corner was starting to give and they immediately moved to the middle and started slipping like people trying to sell you something on an infomercial do.
The dudes are also tired as fuck haha
Notice that they cut the camera. They basically teleported to the middle during second 13 of the counter at 3:50. Although to me it looks like the reason they moved was because they couldn't get the wedge into the gap so they decided to move up after trying for a while. Even though it lifted a little, the gap was too tight and they couldn't get underneath for a really good pry. It actually looked like they tried harder on the Liberty. They were putting some serious force into it and were visibly exhausted at the end.
Haha they did move lol
Just a note for those who are whining about how a minute or two longer and they would have gotten into the safe; all safes can be opened with enough time. Many extremely high-cost safes, such as safes the government and military use for locking up firearms or secure documents, are rated by how long it will take for them to be accessed. The actual safe says it can withstand "X" minutes or hours of serious penetration attacks. No matter how much you spend, enough time will mean the safe is open. The goal is to make it take too long to be worth doing so. Just bolting the safe down will add a lot of time for penetrating the safe.
Bolting them down is key. If they can't tip it over then they lose leverage. If it's not bolted down they can just jack it up and take it out the door.
@@beebob1279 Also, if a safe cannot be tipped over, the two thieves cannot work together as effectively because they will constantly get in each other's way.
It all depends on the price. The large door gap put me off from this safe instantly.
@@murumariesattigit9783 Yep, look at the door on a Graffunder safe. Door gap so tight you can't even insert a credit card. Of course, they cost 3 times as much as a Liberty, but nobody is getting in without a cutting torch.
I have the same safe in the video but with mechanical dial. What I like about it is that it is made in the USA, does not hide the type of metal used and has a decent fire rating. Now to all those complaining it's a low cost safe so don't expect bank vault security. But if you look at actual crime stats most break ins are smash and grab. If you secure the safe to the floor and wall in a small closet it will defeat almost all would be thieves. It's not the movies guys don't come armed with cutting torches. Most usually only use a very small pry bar if that. When it comes to safes unless you are spending $2500 and up there is not a huge difference in materials used.
Bolt your safe to the floor and/or the wall studs and place your safe in a closet. Less chance to get any leverage to pry it open.
Just like shot placement is key in how you stop a bad guy with your gun, Its the same concept for a safe.
1. Bolt it down. that defeats smash and grab if they cant haul it away quickly. And defeats all those videos where they knock the safe on its back to work on it and open it in minutes.
2. Don't expose the sides which are the weakness of affordable safes. Put it in a closet, of better yet, do what i did. Basement. Corner where two sides are up against thick foundation walls and then build a wall on the exposed side. Only way to a BOLTED DOWN safe is the front door which is the hardest to defeat if you cant get leverage with prying tools. Even sawsaw and angle grinders will need a lot more time to defeat the door than cutting the thin single wall of the sides.
4. you did invest in an alarm system for your home, right? No time for that burglar to even THINK of cutting open the safe. He's a man in a hurry and that clock is ticking to the cops arriving.
5. I have dogs. Good luck trying to get to my alarm fast enough to disable it with two cocker spaniels tripping you up and biting you as you try to beat the dialer on the alarm before it summons help.
Did you cut the phone lines? pffft! too bad its a cellular link. Get to the breaker box? It has battery backup.
Get my drift? don't spend thousands on the safe. Layer your security. Be smart. then any safe will do the job.
I still opted for a Liberty Franklin for the warranty and support and the fact that its MADE in the USA. The fire rating of over an hour is more than meets my requirement. If It burns or gets damaged by a thief who tries his luck at quickly prying to see if he can get in in a hurry. I get a new one.
Hope this helps.
Ok Photios Pantzos don't beat around the bush, tell us what's on your mind lol. Good post, I'm looking at getting a Liberty safe soon.
Nothing is fool proof and nothing is unbeatable but buying a good safe is always a great idea. Even if you put it in a corner and everything else, that door is exposed and a good safe is the only option if you really want to delay a theft. Out of everything you said the one thing that jumped out at me, and the one thing that is probably more useful than all the rest, is your dogs and the fact they are small. Small dogs are only good for the bark they provide and even that is less useful than larger dogs because people are used to hearing cocker spaniels etc bark all the time. It is what they do even if yours don't do it people expect it and pay little attention to them. Your cocker spaniels would most likely be kicked across the room/killed in an actual robbery so I think you are a bit optimistic at the security they provide. I always tell people that having dogs are your best home security option but try and have at least one large intimidating/capable dog like a German Shephard, Pitbull, Mastif, Rotty etc. People pay attention to their barks and thieves are worried they can't guard against an attack by them (because they can't really) so they are as much a deterrent than anything else.
Woah! Did you say "cocker spaniels"? I didn't think those dogs were even legal to own in the US? Way too dangerous and hard to control.
Just purchased the Liberty Revolution and I am quite pleased. I think we all need to remember it's an "entry level" safe...not Fort Knox...for the price I paid, it keeps my kids out and a burglar would definitely think twice...not to mention I bolted it to the foundation :-)
This also shows the importance of having a safe bolted down. Its harder to pry in an upright position (less leverage). Having a safe bolted down with the side of the door that opens next to a wall helps,, too. (Restricts motion of travel of prybars). Great video.
What I find amazing is how the company who is sponsoring the test safes always does the best. I'd really like to see an independent group do the test this way there is no conflict of interest or least the appearance of it. Sorry I'm just been around too long and skeptical of what I see.
There are plenty of videos on youtube doing just that. And all the safes fail equally. Bottom line is they don't have a rating. They have very thin metal construction and any decent angle grinder will make short work of them. The DOOR is typically the strongest part of any safe... that's where most of the engineering and tech goes to. With the angle grinder, you can literally cut open the entire side or back of these type safes in seconds.... they're a joke. Understanding safe RATINGS is probably the best thing for anyone looking to get a real safe.
This already exists. It's called the Underwriter Laboratories, or UL, and they have a series of intense attack tests they perform on safes. Most gun safes are not constructed to survive the UL tooled attack tests, as most gun safes are designed to give the appearance of security more than they are to actually provide security. A lot of gun safe makers will have their safes certified by the UL for what is called the RSC-I or Residential Security Container Level I rating. This, however, more or less says it is a locking box, as this particular attack is a single person attack with small hand tools. The first rating that signifies a safe with actual grit is the RSC Level II, and this is a relatively newer rating. Unlike RSC-I, the attack test used for RSC-II is quite intense, and similar to the UL's attack test used to certify mid-high-security tool-resistant safes (e.g. TL-15, TL-30, TL-15x6, TL-30x6).
They didn’t do the same process on the liberty as they did with the other two. Give me a hand held 10” cutting blade and I’d be in the side of there in less than 10 minutes
@GregMF well then I'll be getting what I paid for since the safe is rated and UL certified to withstand an attack by one man with hand tools for 5 minutes.
The two guys with prybars should take some acting courses... you can clearly see that they are faking the attack with the last safe (liberty). On the other 2 they focused the attack on the same corner until 1 bar broke up and then moved up to the following. In the last one they are doing random attacks, effectively distributing the surface on all the door and not focusing strength on one point...
Force is not everything.. you can clearly see in the previous two safes that they are not just using force but using it with intelligence. They follow a technique... (1) the smaller pry bar makes its way into the crack leaving space for the larger one, (2) only one bolt is attacked at a time, when it breaks they pass on to the next one. On the third safe, on the contrary, they seem to be proceeding randomly.
Please remember that if someone wants in, then they'll find a way to get in. A safe is just your best effort to secure things that are important and valuable to you...so buy quality and bolt it down as best as you can. Notice how it takes 2 grown men to get it to open...but how they also need to lay it down to get the downward leverage they need.
Also depends on gauge of steel
(thickness)…. These safes are probably 14 gauge which is easiest to pry… 10 gauge is 4 x’s stronger? I’d rather have 10 gauge with roll bars than 14 gauge and military bars.
pardon me for saying but it seemed like a few more minutes on the last one and it would have opened
they weren't trying...you could tell when they were missing the gap with the bars
@@dawjy9413 Tighter gap on the door and the frame.
some of these comments....
I don't care what safe you own, you're buying time. Plasma cutters will get through anything. 99% of all thefts are smash and grabs. A safe like this one will do the job 99% of the time.
Thats why you beef up your other defenses. Alarms, guard dogs etc.
Your average middle class gun owner will not need more than this.
the point here is bolt the goddam thing to the ground and build around so the side is not essay to access and pay for a good alarm. the safe is to slow the thief while cop are on the way!
I usually carry a small tactical nuke when i break into safes...sad these safes are too easy to crack into....
@@ShinerBockGirlz Get a pattern enhancer and just teleport the things out saves a lot of hassle lol
In fairness, safes would typically be anchored down to the ground, so laying them down to get that extra leverage is kinda cheating. Also the locations of safes are typically inside of closets and in the corner, so a lot of spots will have a wall where they would need to pry.
I would like to see if the safe opens after the pry test. Assuming its protected the weapons inside and the robbers give up, can the owner of the safe enter the combination and open it?
I am sure after 5 minutes the bad guys will quit and go home for the day. Every time!
Looks like a good safe, I mean unless you are going to spend 10,000 on a custom made safe, which can also be broken into, just takes longer. I think that Liberty should make the gaps closer though, tighter the fit, harder to get a bar in it, in the first place. Nothing beats solid thicker steel though.
Mine is is bolted to my slab in basement so there’s no tipping it over.
A good grinder makes these safes very easy to get to, although your average thief isn't going to even take the time to do that.
if you bolt it to the floor next to a wall they will have no leverage to open the safe
I wonder why Liberty, Fort Knox, American Security, and Superior have not done a direct head to head with their mid range $3000 USD safes?
Gun safes, the truth. Weapons education. It's a youtube video. This guy knows his safes.
@@beebob1279 uuuhhh yeah about that.... he contradicts himself in his second video.
I personally spoke with Kirk from the first video (CE Safes) as well as Tony from the second video VaultPro. Both of those individuals are the experts in those vidoes and neither of them do direct business with Weapons Education due to legal issues.
BTW Vault Pro makes some seriously impressive safes and they are all hand made here in the USA, top quality stuff. CE Safes has lots of different price points in their inventory and some quality safes as well.
Those 2 guys are amazing actors they should get a grammy lol. To be honest a simple angle grinder and someone would be in.
i want to see this test of the safes standing upright
You get splitting axes and sledgehammers n pound the axe heads into the door grove and it forces the wall out and the pins pop right open, under 2 min from experience, ya these might keep someone out for a lil longer if they use pry bars but axe heads are the best, it wedges em open
How does it hold up to a cordless grinder with cutoff wheels?
Steelwater safes seem to be pretty good
Bolted to floor and wall studs the Liberty safes are hard to pry. I tried mine and almost pulled my shoulder out.
If a person knows what they are doing, they attack the weakest part of a safe, prying is not the way. Angle grinder will cut open the side or back in seconds. Even Liberty's "Presidential" safe which is their best...... has NO RATING listed on their website. It's amazing that people buy this safe for THOUSANDS of dollars. I bought a TR-30 rated safe for under 2 grand. If you dropped my safe on the Liberty Presidential model... mine would literally crush it flat LOL. Will Liberty safe's stop a standard criminal... probably. Will it stop anyone who knows anything about safes.... not a chance. Even my safe will only last 30 minutes under attacks from torches and grinding tools.
the big deterrent is, out of sight out of mind. Don't advertise to people that you have a safe in the house either. It's amazing how much information is spilled just in casual conversation.
Also, bolt that sucker down. don't make it easy for the thief if they actually have bars to pry it open.
They are tired by the time they get to the third one.
Most of the comments are a little ridicules, as any safe of the caliber of those tested can be opened. However, even a cheap
safe bolted down inside a closet with limited access will be very hard to defeat..
They started in the middle instead of the corner and moved around a lot more, not concentrating on one location.
Umm they got that liberty safe open if you watch carefully the top was off, one or two minutes they would of got in, by the way that safe landed it sounded like cheap steel so a power saw would do the trick.
It is cheap steel. Even the $2k+ Liberty safes are only 11ga steel (the cheap ones are 12ga) Stack two pennies and that's how thin the steel is for the body.
Dragonfly5280 thats nuts
I want to see a fire axe attack on your safe. Pry attacks are not the only way to break in. If the body material is not think enough, a few swings from a heady duty axe will go straight through.
Not on all safes. It depends if they are filled with clay or compressed cement. Most cheapo's are filled with clay
Just got one I know their cheap and provide limited security from professional thieves but with the flat locking bars and bolted to the floor it’s gonna slow the thieves down.
Could those men do that if the safe was upright?
I find it odd that there are no videos of any safes that are bolted down being attacked with pry bars.
I'm thinking about buying a lower end Liberty Safe in the $700 range. I believe the safe will keep my grandkids out and hopefully delay a burglar. I think you have to couple the safe with a good security system and good homeowner insurance. Also weight the safe down so it cannot be easily carried off to a waiting truck for future demolition. Think lead weight.
You bolt it down
@@bensmith4563 Can't do it with a post tension slab unless you hire someone with a detector to determine where the tension hardware is located in the slab. Also, most bolted safes can be pried out of the concrete. Powers wedge bolts resist prying the best. The best we can hope for is delaying a safe attack. If a burglar has time, any safe installation will be defeated. Best if the safe is not visible at all. I've been through all this.
bolt your safe down people! notice how all of them were on their backs. put it in a closet and bolt it down....now try prying. cant get as much leverage. liberty did best....but any safe is vulnerable on its back.
They should have just either A, put a rare earth magnet on front to pop the electronic solenoid or B pushed it on the front and worked on the back... that back will open up like a tin can. That is why you bolt them to the floor when you get it home.
Neither of those options will work with our safes. You can use the magnet trick on cheap imported safes but not on ours.
Liberty Safe & Security Products Good to know...
The difference is the liberty has military style locking bars not that cheap little bolt pin
Gun safe companies need to do some thing about the side.
Someone with an angle grinder is getting through, normally not bothering with the front of the door
gun safe companies HAVE done something about the sides..... but most dont want to pay for thicker steel, and multiple layers of steel.
im looking at a HOMELAND safe which as 7 gauge steel body. they even make 4 gauge!
how does the revolution series compare to the cabelas provault 24?
+Josh Saintz They are the Same Safe, built to the same specs in the same factory by Liberty.
The Liberty Centurion is the exact same as the Cabela"s Provault series...
“Military style locking bars” LOL. Umpteen years working in military armory’s and never seen a “locking bar”
angle grinder? most safes aren't that thick on the sides. I've seen angle grinders make short work of steel.
Buy yeah, a safe in a room with cameras, alarms, and you with a 1911 makes it more secure.
Why not pry on hinge side ? It has less bars . Now go :)
On the ones I've looked at, the bars are equal, including Liberty. They're fixed bars rather than sliders. Because of the hinge it would actually take longer to pry from that side.
Because everyone lays a safe on it's back to break into it.
Try some real world tests where the safe is bolted to the floor and wall, where you have no room for long pry bars.
True, it is much harder to pry a safe bolted to the floor. We tell all our customers to bolt down your safe. Surprisingly, many do not.
So all I need to open your safe is two 4 foot long pry pars, and ten minutes of work. Sounds like you guys need to make a better safe
+studinthemaking It's pretty clear that you have no idea what you're talking about
+studinthemaking Think like a bad guy who doesn't know if the homeowner will be home soon or not. He wants to crack that thing open ASAP and put all the contents in his truck and get out. Any safe that takes longer than 30 seconds.. or is bolted to the floor, will immediately send him down the street to an easier target
+studinthemaking I think if it was a 6 minute test, all three safes would have failed....
ok now lets put them in a closet with with barely any room bolted to the ground. the way normal people have there safes
Exactly Juan...what I was thinking
Ummmmm all the better?
ok, i have a legitimate question. Liberty please answer. This is one of the most common questions I here all the time and am curious about myself. If these military bars are better, why not include them on the revere and higher safes. The revere have traditional bolts, do y our anti pry tabs make up for this? And if the bars are better, i dont understand why you would charge more for less, being bars for bolts on higher priced models.
ok thank you
Because it's a sales pitch. Military style. Really??? They just want it to sound secure while it is nothing more than a piece of mild steel. It's a way of getting more money. The same way our government gets more money out of a budget by allocating funds for hexagonal graphite recording devices. They would not get as much money if they just said they needed pencils. Food for thought.
So the guy that was really good at prying suddenly sucked when he got to the liberty safe, also they did not stay focused on 1 corner like they did on the 1st two, so in my opinion they tainted this entire test.
All these gun safes can be broken into. I have bought some "real" safes and converted them to gun safes. The gap around the door is less than 1/32 of an inch and no pry bar is getting in there.
But will it blend?
They get rid of the bolts after I buy my liberty safe
I see a few flaws in your pry test. First of all, most people that have a gun safe, have it bolted to the floor or wall or both so, there would be no tipping it over to get more leverage. 2.........if you're like me, you have it tucked in the back of a closet and the open side is near a wall so that the door has plenty of clearance when you swing it open. So again, no room for a pry bar.
They are not safes, but steel cabinets. 3mm of steel and few layers of drywall are securing your stuff only from fire. Even for small angle grinder it's under a minute to cut that "safe" in half. For me something called "safe" must have at least 2 layers of steel (8mm + 3mm on door, and 5mm + 3mm on walls) and at least 40-50mm of reinforced concrete between layers of steel. IDK what American law describes as safe, but most of it is not safe at all.
And they use a small Liberty. The bigger models are even stronger.🇺🇸
Good luck even pushing my safe over.. And most safes have locking lugs all the way around the entire door
I'm confident that my safe is protected if 2 big strong engineers can't get in.
They had that corner up in 18secs then stopped trying. If your safe isn't Rated TL-15 or better it's not a safe its fancy cabinet with a dial.
Will like to see a video like this where the safe is bolted to the floor and can't be tipped over.
old liberty safes same as the others.
Is the Centurian the Revolution?
A regular criminal go most likely catch more hell trying to opening a safe if they have a crow bar. Even if you just have a gun cabin yeah it can be broke into much easier but by the time they try to get the guns and stuff , hell the metal still go give them hell with trying to bending and opening the dam lock. They will be seen or caught.
Boy if a safe only takes 5 minutes of prying, it’s not much of a safe. Just because it didn’t open in this test, doesn’t mean it’s a good safe. I want mine to take more than a couple hours not a less then ten minutes. Best way to avoid this is to get a safe with little to no door gap (see Graffunder, Brown, and American Security), as well as to bolt it down so it can’t be pushed over. It will always be harder to pry standing up. Overall this made me even less likely to buy a Liberty. Also, if you have the money, purchase a safe with a TL rating NOT an RSC rating.
If it's not bolted to the floor just take it with you.
Mine weighs about 1000 pounds
Frank The Rabbit I had 1600lbs safe someone stole from my bedroom.
My Liberty is bolted down to the concrete foundation making it impossible for a thief to lay down my safe and pry it open.🇺🇸
Or just use a cordless grinder 😅
Cordless circle saw and maybe an extra battery would make quick work of the side of that cabinet. Pry tests are BS why would you go the hardest possible route to get into a “safe”. The shell is probably at most 1/8” steel, with dry wall and carpet on the inside.
Sure hope you bolt this light "safe" down....its easier to take out then to break in. A entry level RSC....not a safe. Just make sure you know the difference. Makes me cringe how easily that 12G steel flexes.
BUT WE ALL KNOW THAT ANYONE TRUELLY TRYING TO GET IN A SAFE WOULD USE A GRINDER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Or a plasma torch but than you risk damaging what is inside
@@Ghost.uppercut This was my thought after looking at these safes. I think with the right technique you could avoid doing to much damage to the rifles, but then I got to wondering if a 120v plasma would manage it if you had it bolted down and they had to work inside. Not many people have 240 in the closet :)
Just cut through the side..
Just buy dozens of safes and THAT becomes an investment in itself and confounds Mr Robber looking for the goodies.
And have the ones in plain sight filled with sand.
Nice! you guys run Trumpfs! Good machines not so fun to work on lol
Thieves don't even need to use the lower power battery powered grinders... Most people have a plug within 10 ft of their safe. A multi-purpose blade in a circular saw would take the whole front of the safe off in less than 10 minutes.
The 1st safe was so light weight that the had to hold it down while prying on it.
Real criminals won't use prybars. They will use a concrete saw which will open any Liberty safe in a few minutes. Get at least a TL-30x6 safe if you want security.
Watch the video again and watch how the guy in the gray shirt tackles and prys open the first two safes, watch the angle of his crowbar then when he gets to the liberty safe watch the angles of his crowbar!! a bit different I would say!! this is fake, they could have gotten into that liberty safe just as easy!!
Hey liberty I'll put my cheap safe up against yours if you will replace mine with a nice new liberty that i can improve check out the video of my stack on
But a Cheap and Hollow From Door too.. 🤬👎😡
Most thieves are lazy and don’t want to put in all that effort
I would have used a hand truck to roll it out to the trunk of my Hyundai Excel.
What a joke they didn’t want to work on that bottom corner, that safe sucks did you notice how the side wall was crushing and they stopped prying on it when it started to open it makes you know they are liers
Nice try. Go through the side with a cheap electric saw. Of course all the 'armor' is on the front door. Go through the side or back.
Better hope you're not sending a shower of sparks from your electric saw into a stockpile of gunpowder stored in the safe (to protect it from humidity and house fires)...
They did the hardest one last obviously it will take longest maybe try 3 teams one for each duhhh very poor experiment
This test was actually impressive because the Liberty safe is UL rated at level 1 security which means it is tested to survive for 5 minutes minimum against attacks by ONE MAN with tools. In this test, it survived more than 5 minutes with attacks by TWO MEN with tools, which puts it actually closer to Security level 2.
I don’t think that liberty safe is UL rated as RSC…. That requires 12 gauge steel body
Beer can
Hmm If I was going into a house a cheap torch would get into this in no time. Nice exposed hinges you got there.
safes dont work on hinge security....hinges on the outside allow for full opening. interior hinges allow for only 90 degrees of opening. slice off the hinges and its still locked.
Shawna Graham dumbass
LMFAO this is more of an AD than an “independent” test. Such bs! This was totally defeatable.
*conflict of interest* why would workers/employees of THEIR own company actually try and defeat their own product. I wouldn’t, and they sure didn’t (intentionally)
Hi thanks for watching. The same force and "try" was used in all examples. We did not; not would we, go "easy" on a Liberty Safe vs. a competitors.
lol. you guys get to keep your jobs.
now put those cheap safes in a small closet with walls in the way and bolted to the ground and try the pry test again.
Hahaha.. That last test was soooo fake...
Made in U.S.A.
This was a cringe moment if there ever was one...
Dont test vs a sturdy safe lol better stick with the cheap bimart junk.
i noticed when they 1st started on the liberty the bottom corner was starting to give and they immediately moved to the middle and started slipping like people trying to sell you something on an infomercial do.