As a firefighter, I have 2 pointers for you to improve the potential outcome for your safe in the case of a fire. 1. Do not store ammunition or powder in your safe, it can and will cook off or burn. 2. As you mentioned the primary fire protection for your safe is the from the sheetrock inside the safe. You can improve the fire resistance of your safe by adding more layers of sheetrock outside of the safe as well. We were responding to a car fire inside of a basement garage with only a single layer of 5/8" sheetrock between the fire, and the studs / floor joists. The car was burning for at least 5-7min before our arrival. We were able to quickly extinguish the fire that had been rolling from the engine compartment up to the ceiling of the garage. The flames did not breach or even damage the sheetrock ceiling aside from damage to the exposed surface layer. To add more fire resistance add several layers of sheetrock to all sides that are not directly against a brick or concrete wall and you can add multiple layers of sheetrock to the inside of a closet door that could install in front of your safe.
@@yeahnah9672 Will they let you use a separate ammo locker? Myself and most of my friends keep our guns in a fire rated safe and the ammo in a secure ammo locker, i.e. a cheaper gun safe that is not fire rated. If you do end up needing to keep it in the same safe, I would put it on the top shelf and put several layers of drywall between the ammo and the firearms.
@@rpeltz I believe you can but unfortunately the law is very gray in Australia, you have to carry a firearms license, photo id and the post office recipient, to get a new gun it costs over $100 and has to be approved which takes over a week and to start your gun license it’s $360 to just fill the application
@@albaniancowboy2767 To your point the last house and safe we had was delivered by a professional that literally did so under the cover of darkness and placed a refrigerator box over top of the safe.
Great video. I'm thankful that the local cops take about 3 minutes to get to my house. But I don't have to worry about my guns anymore because I lost most of them when my kayak tipped over.
@@mikeryan6277 Doesn't really matter... If you eventually get caught with any weapon that you reported lost or stolen, you will be going to prison. So you better hope they will remain hidden. Don't hate me for the info...I'm in the same boat.
@@davidmarkwald450 seems like it may be a fine line between going to prison and going to war, I hope neither, although are history shows a lot of blood has been shed because other have infringed on our inalienable rights.
@@mikeryan6277 Hopefully as the Dems really muck things up for the country, more and more Dems will regret their mistake of being misled and finally throw their support behind conservative views. People can only take so much before SHTF. We will only see change when all the chaos starts to affect the Dems, like what they thrust onto us. I can't wait till the Dems start eating their own. It's imperative that certain individuals be eliminated from the equation, if this country is ever to recover. Interesting thought...Before Jan. 20, 2021, if Biden and everyone associated with him were on a flight that crashed and killed all. Do you think that the Dems would then want to do a new election? Of course they would. It would give them that chance to rig things even MORE to their advantage. Just like Eric Holder said... If they go low , WE KICK THEM! Always remember who the Dems are, and what they represent. Our way of life depends on it.
Retired firefighter here. Never saw a gun safe of any quality survive a full house fire. Started lockpicking as a hobby. Discovered I could beat a lot of safes in less than 20 minutes and I'm a beginner. It would take a lot of work just to find my safe. It's in a tight place with little room to work on it. Basically, it's to keep the kids safe.
Fort knox safe will take care of valuables in a fire. Most big box store safes will not make it past a few minutes in a real fire . Most people won't spend the money to buy a safe that really works in conditions. This $700 safe wont make it through house fire agreed.
The best security In order of importance: 1) Make sure people don't know you have anything worth stealing to begin with. 2) Don't prominently display your safe-In fact hide it as well as you can. 3) The art of deception. Sure have a visible gun safe with a few 'sacrificial' cheapo guns inside. Hide all the good shit in a false wall in another BETTER safe. 4) Make your property a hard target. Good lighting, security system & cameras, barking dog, etc.
@@mytuberforyou 3D print tree knots to hold your sensors, and no one will know they are there. Dogs are to noisy. A cat they won't know is their till it is playing with their eyeballs like a ball of yarn.
@@mikeike7114 drug house where dealers sell meth or other drugs and keep the junkies inside doing the drugs. Hence the drug users are "trapped" buying their drugs from that supplier until they run out of money. My point is a lot of cameras or overt security may draw suspicion.
Great video! You hit a lot of very important points. As a 26+ year LEO veteran I might add - please take quality pictures of EVERYTHING you own including paperwork, serial numbers, VIN numbers etc. put them all on two thumb drives. Put one in your safe and the second in a friends or relatives safe. Police and insurance companies will thank you.
Best comment. Safes are nothing more than closets. Insurance policy’s are Fort Knox. Take pictures of everything, record expensive possessions with insurance companies, make sure they are INSURING what you want them to insure, UPDATE new items as necessary on your insurance policy. When you get a new car, what’s the first thing you do? Call the insurance company. When you buy a new firearm, what’s the first thing you do ? Buy a new safe? NO !!! CALL THE INSURANCE COMPANY !!!!
This is the best response to this issue. Firearms stored inside a safe is better than under the bed! If you are paranoid and insecure about safes, then don't buy one!
Whoever determines how many guns go in a safe is the same guy who determines how many people can sleep in a tent. Most long guns you should count as 2-3 guns against the capacity of the safe.
Best way to do it I knew someone who did this and saved them a ton of money. They actually put some old documents and odds and ends . Little Stack of cash in so when it was stolen it wouldn’t be obvious it was a fake . Is case they came back
I been thinking of that if I ever get one. But I think I'd rather just add 3-4 alarms. Two laser alarms one inside one outside and two vibration alarms one inside one on top which alert me via phone and neighbors via sound. Plus additional cameras.
That's a contradiction. You would never need to keep an honest man out, they would stay out on their own volition. A locked door is just a layer of protection against dishonest people. How effective that layer is, depends on how dishonest the person is. The only benefit I see to a safe is possible Fire Protection, and even that isn't guaranteed. If someone wants to get into your safe they can just cut the side open.
I bought one of those cheap box store safes years ago. Got it home and the lock broke within a week. I returned it to the store and shifted my strategy. After searching on craigslist for a bit I found a guy that did demo work that had recently demolished an old bank and was selling off the door. I got the door from him for $700. This door is a Mosler made in the 30s and its amazing. The gap in the door is so tight I can hardly wedge a placard into it. I then made a reinforced room in my basement for my new door. Now I have a whole vault in my home that only cost me around about $1300 in materials and a few nights and weekends worth of work. Now not only do I have a place to store valuables, we also now have a panic room and a storm shelter.
Best is to have a huge heavy tank of a safe obviously found but have everything you want secured in a secret compartment some other room they expect little of value to be in
*ABSOLUTELY WRONG!!!!!* A safe is time. All you need is about 15 minutes or more of security protection in a safe, what time it would take from finding it hidden is not considered. I have no experience and can break into a bank vault. Well, I can break into a bank vault if I had enough time. The most important thing is an electronic security system with monitoring and a VERY LOUD speaker.
Bolted down or not, I've seen safes stolen by wrapping a chain around it & jerking it out the house with a truck. If they want it bad enough, they're going to get it. Hate thieves with a passion!!!
@@steveo1240 There’s a video of a guy that put a huge one in the middle of his living room bolted down and was like a 10,000$ safe. You could see it through his front window like a display and didn’t think anyone could but sure enough they wrapped a chain around it and Dragged it down the block and away with a truck.
I'm a welder. I built a case around my safe out of AR 500 armour plate. And it's all bolted down. That's all covered by a nice wood case. Liberty uses concrete. The safe will stay with the house when I sell .
I'm a retired sheet metal worker and 74 years old, I can get in your POS gun safe with ease. You are much better off buying a good used TL rated safe, a real cash storage safe. A long time ago a auto repair shop was broken into over and over. So they bought a huge older safe, cut a hole in the back and filled it with concrete then stood it up near the office door. They just hid the cash and checks in a hollow table covered with books and magazines in the costumer waiting room. They would break in and pound on that safe year after year, but they never had another successful robbery.
Ya but could u get passed my cameras? Without hitting my boobies traps? And also find where my real safe is hidden not the decoy? And after all that have enough time to break it open before the cops show up in about 5 minutes? And do u think ur going to cut out and carry a big 400-1000 pound safe. with one or two guys easily? All in that time. If u find it. Plus my neighbors cameras. U may get to it but ur ass sure as hell isn't stealing shit. 😂😂😂😂
When i was in the army i had eight safes in my office. Whensome of the people in my unit that had a "lock out", they forgot their combinations or something else, and couldn't get into their safes. We took the safe to a person qualified to break into the safe, the dude got a big welder, cranked the power way up and got a thick stick and popped a hole in the front just above the knob and had the safe open in seconds.
That big stick was and carbon arc cutting stick which can be used with any welder which produces sufficient amperage to cut just about anything, steel, concrete, rebar, ceramic, stone you name it. Used by welders to gouge weld and make rough cuts when they just need to shear something open, and by rescue crews to cut people out of disaster areas.
Because MOST military/DOD safes are not hard to get into by force. They are just VERY hard to get into COVERTLY Try that trick on a TRTL30 commercial safe and thermal relockers are going off. Then you're going to be there awhile. Try to drill it youre hitting hardplate then the glass shatters and relockers go off and you're in the same place you are torching it.
I bought a 64-gun Cannon safe in March 2020...the digital lock failed in about 1.5 years. The lock is covered under a "Lifetime" warranty....but too bad the warranty doesnt cover the labor for a locksmith to open your malfunctioning safe lock, which cost 10 times the cost of the cheap replacement parts. The locksmith wants $800 to open the safe, the same price I paid for it. Cannon sent me the replacement lock parts for free, big whoop because theyre useless sitting outside my broken safe. Next time Im spending the money for a mechanical lock, these electric locks made in China are cheap trash.
My thoughts exactly. I’ve been looking for a quality safe and the vast majority are these digital locks that have a “back-up” key with a basic tubular lock, which are very easy to pick. eBay sells a tool for like $10 to do it in under a minute.
S&G makes a dual-type digital lock. It's battery powered, but it is also an old school dial. It is the only digital lock that I would consider. And nothing that uses a key
You’re not buying a “Safe”. They’re listed as a “Residential Security Container”. A real safe (as listed by Underwriter Laboratories) would weigh thousands of pounds and would cost far more than most would be willing to spend. The purpose of a residential security container is to deter the smash and grab break in. The logic being that most thieves will not waste time trying to break into it.
Food For Thought: Amongst others, I have a Liberty Centurion 12-Gun SAFE. Although the "container" itself weighs less than 500lbs, Liberty Safe allows even these "smaller" safes to be anchored down. While the unit itself may not weigh a lot, the anchoring to a garage/cement floor creates thousands of pounds of tensile strength. They won't waste time breaking into it, but they'll also be wasting their time trying to remove it from my pad 👍
I bought a small safe off Craigs list, the guy told me that a safe is to keep your friends out. A determined person who knows their way around tools can defeat most, if not all, gun safes. So a good safe is one that deters most people from unwanted access to your stuff. There are other means of fireproofing than a big metal safe but sometimes you need both. I think you can still buy fire proof pouches or install your safe in a way to give it more fire resistance. A big metal box will be like an oven, once hot; so coatings or fireproof blankets( think oven mitt) can improve resistance to heat.
4:32 to get to the first point. If somebody wants something of yours, nothing will stop them. You are just discouraging people from making mistakes and basically not bad people. Bad people will do what they want. I love it when people lock screen or sliding glass doors. Why?
I am curious to find out what all the Liberty Safe owners think now that Liberty Safe gave the FBI the master code to someone's safe without a direct subpoena to the company.
Wow thats a bit unsettling to hear.. I am here looking for Reviews and Opinions as I am in the market for a Safe and I was really thinking I liked Liberty. In theory is there brand of safe that would allow for the lock to be changed so nobody would know the master but the owner?
I have a question, I have a gun safe with an E lock. Can someone unplug my lock and plug their e lock number pad and open my safe? I do not see how the lock and the number pad know that they are a pair.
I have a true story that proves your "buying time" point. This happened to me when I had just moved out of my parents' house and I was on the second level of a three-story house with two apartments at each level. There was still an old oil tank shed in the back yard where the old oil tanks used to be and this shed was about as tall as the house and it has an interior staircase that led to the back alley with a door at every floor and there was a sort of walkway that bridged the back balcony to the shed. This shed had stood for at least 80 years and it was the original wood, which means it was about as strong as wet cardboard. When I moved in I looked at this and thought, anyone can just break in to the shed from the alley and make their way up the stairs sight unseen and the only thing that stops them from going through those old wood doors is a flimsy little catch hook! I thought this was an invitation for robbers, so I made things a little harder for them; I nailed down a piece of 2x4 on the floor inside so I could place a long 2x4 against the bottom of the handle and have it blocked by that piece nailed to the floor. They would have to break through the door itself before they were able to break that down, and it was quick and easy to take down when I needed to bring the garbage down to the alley. Next was the outside door on my floor, which I just tired with very strong nylon rope to the metal railing of the walkway. So I had put two levels of impediment for anyone trying to break though on my level from inside and guess what happened one day? That's right, the top and bottom tenants got robed but not me. It took me a whole 20 minutes of work to do all of this, and that included figuring out how to do it! In the end, I'd just made it too complicated for robbers to bother with mine, so they went to the next one. So ya, you are buying time and much like staying warm in winter is all about layers, safety is all about layers.
I,got a huge safe bolted to the ground in my bedroom…it holds nothing of value….if I get broken into I expect then to spend hours trying to get into it while my actual security system notifies authorities and they get caught….my valuable items are not in my house
As far as the fire protection on documents, my friend that uses a pop machine also has one of those smaller Sentry fire proof safes rated for 2 hours and he keeps his docs inside that and sets it inside his bigger safe for additional fire protection, insuring even a raging house fire won't destroy his ID docs and records. Just another idea!
I have my basic manual combo safe from Cabelas made by Liberty. I'm in an apartment so it works for me. Plus I exceed legal requirements and I have insurance. Oh yeah, Liberty's warranty rocks just as you said near the end of the video. 👍
I went through an very exhaustive research several years ago and finally settled on an American Security BF 6636. It is bolted down to the concrete slab to make sure they don't walk off with the 1250 pound beast. Mechanical lock as I distrust electronic locks.
I've been broken into twice unfortunately. Once they broke out and moved a built-in cheaper safe and never got it open. The second time they totally destroyed the top plug on a floor safe and never got it open. Two of my local friends both had the nightmare of being taken hostage to open theirs. If some wants in bad enough they will get in. The security system is more important. The best thing is to limit the time they will have.
WHEN the lock warranty is past, and the lock starts to be intermittent, call the lock smith to replace the lock while its still open. Those electronic locks are crap. They will fail. I put a combo lock on mine in year 6 of ownership. It was less than $200.00 with the service call, lock and installation all included.
I purchased Liberty Lincoln right after 9/11. It has a SG manual combo lock that I never have to worry about batteries. It also has the old school round bolts, not those flat plates
The best "covert" safe I have ever seen is an old retired pop machine!!!!! I have a few friends who have "vintage pop machines" as a neat display that don't work any more for a gun cabinet, but the keys and everything else work just fine!! That's what I plan to do! Also on a side note, a good simple storage safe for external hard drives and digital information that could get destroyed if some EMP event were to happen is an old microwave!!! They are radiation shielded and can protect digital info, and those can be hidden pretty easily!!
Thanks for the review. There is a difference between a Safe & Security Container. That's consider a residential security container by UL Listings UL RSC. A Safe has a UL Listing of Tool Resistant from UL TL-15, UL TL-30 & UL TL-30x6. Those Safes have a 1" thick steel walls & door. Next down is Burglary Resistant B Class & A Class less than 1" Steel Door & less than 1/2 Steel Walls. AMSEC is once such company that makes Safes. Multiple smaller units & locations is GREAT idea & information... like in the military it's a rifle not a gun... Lol
According to the FBI the average break in time is 10 minutes many are as short as 90 seconds. The reality is the VAST majority Burglars are more interested in getting in and out fast (especially with modern home security systems/cams) and don’t have the skills/tools to break a safe. (If its a small one not bolted down they would probably take it with them). Sophisticated burglars certainly do exist but statistically you are unlikely to encounter one. I also find it highly unlikely that tried to break into a safe using power tools with a visible security cameras and alarm sounding Knowing the police will likely arrive before they get in there. Of Course every situation is different and I’m speaking generally here.
If you have a Liberty safe dealer or a locksmith that carries safes near you, they can put a combination lock on it for you. As for being able to cut in a few places and being able to jimmy the door open.... easier said than done ! A well hidden safe is always your best preventative measure to take.
I bought an entry level gun locker to keep everything together and to keep everyone safe who comes in our house. Our neighborhood is safe. I know because some dumbbell forgot to lock the front door when we went on vacation. The problems in our neighborhood, based on ring doorbells, seem to be teenagers breaking into cars. I’m going to at least bolt it in a closet. I like the bookcase idea. My firearms aren’t high end.
I own a safe company Franco Safes And vaults out of Southern California, I like a lot of what you said. It's amazing to me how so many people say that safe company's don't tell you all the these things. I'm very upfront with people that come in and I belive I turn people off because telling them all the facts about security is not what people want to hear. Most people want to be sold the dream that a safe Is a save all protect all, they are not. I will say when I first saw your video I thought you were going to say some fake news type of facts but you hit most of it on the nose, not everything you said was on point but 95% was all perfect. You got a good safe for your application. Good job.
@@jessefranco9053 awesome, thank you! I have no other medias, so we could do email, or we could keep it here so that other people who might be in my same situation could find the answers to some questions if they have them. Whatever you’d like to do I’m sure we can figure it out
Well thats 20 mins wasted on clickbait that i"ll never get back... thought youd say something useful other than "they dont tell you where the weak points are"
@@jonspink4035 yeah, I hate to be the guy that causes video to lose views/ kill watch time, but lengthy explanations of the owner's manual with a little common sense is basically useless. Just more space for ads & monitoring your info
The cheaper line of Liberty safes like you have there tend to only have the digital lock option, if you step up in there line of safes you can get dual action locks that are both mechanical and digital.
The biggest problem with gun safes is that they are so heavy that you can't bring it to your house by yourself. So everyone involved in helping you install it now knows you have guns, what kind of safe and where it is. If they talk about it, then others will know. Too bad you can't buy a safe in parts, assemble it yourself and hide the safe itself.
Cant you? Last time i checked you could buy sheet metal, welding machine, and all the other stuff required. Stick welders are dirt cheap nowdays, and they do great at welding thick steel plates.
@@joep8787 Joe, sorry to tell you this, but what you described is necessarily complex. There’s really no way around it if you don’t want anyone involved. So if you can’t maneuver the safe by yourself, you’ll need machinery. Might cost more, but that’s the price to be paid for privacy and strategic advantage.
I work with dozens of brands and have experience moving them, cracking into them, and selling them. I will say that the brands to stay away from are Liberty, Cannon, Century, and any Winchester that weighs less than 500 pounds and doesn’t have bolts on the hinge side of the door. I will say that Liberty has a great advertising campaign, that’s it. But it irks me to have a company make a safe entirely in china, ship it here, slap a lock on it, now it’s “made in America 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸”
@@jamespruitt6718 Champion used to be a great safe, I have a Champion Triumph. It’s 5 years old and I love it. But, They have recently reduced steel thicknesses and are now like Liberty, a cheap box with fancy paint. Go with an Amsec or Ft Knox. Save up if you have to, you will only buy one in your lifetime. Buy something your kids will give to their kids. Check out Parker Safes on RUclips.
If you have Friends over & you have to put your Camera Lenses in the Safe because your afraid they will be Lifted those are not your Friends. Those are people you see on the Post Office wall boards.
When we sold our last home, the buyer wanted to buy my AmSec safe. So, when we built our new home here in TX, I did weeks of research again on safes. I quickly realized that Liberty is the most innovative and high quality safe made. I ended up with a Liberty Franklin 40 - 850 lbs., 110-minute UL fire rating, Level 5 security. It’s an amazing safe. As you said, they only buy you time. But make sure you bolt your safe to the floor. Congrats on your great new safe!
AMSEC is the choice of those who want high level protection. Liberty is for those who want an RSC (anyone who does not know the difference between safes and RSC is already in trouble...) with a fancy paint job. There's a reason you will find AMSEC in commercial applications. Liberty? Not so much...
I owned an AmSec safe for 20 years. I liked it. My Liberty is just much better in pretty much every quantifiable way. There are reasons why they’re the #1 seller in the US. I’m totally familiar with RSC’s vs. TL-15, 30, etc. The Liberty I bought ticks every box that I wanted/needed, and is definitely a higher quality than my AmSec was. So enjoy your AmSec! Both are in the top tier.
One question, have you heard about rare earth magnets that are readily available to purchase can be used to energize key pad spring loaded bolt & open your safe door? Rare earth magnets are super powerful, will fry any type of electronics circuitry. It's the reason I won't buy my next safe witha key pad. What are your thoughts on the subject?
My police officer friends tell me to use the safe as a decoy hide the good stuff else where in the house If someone takes the whole thing they get nothing
Reminds me of Kramer and the multiple door locks. He locked every other lock so for every lock a burglar picked open, another lock would be picked closed. Brilliant!
Display a safe with a few expendable goodies in it and hide the safe with the good stuff. If they crack the decoy and find crap they know you have more hidden. Throw them a bone and they just think you don't really have much. Unless of course it's someone that knows you have more stuff.
Don't have a house that anyone would think there is anything of value in. Rusty trucks and crap everywhere and no one will want to look for anything of value. These are not the droids we are looking for. Thanks for sharing, I love your videos, new subscriber.
my friend lives alone and is always home. and sometimes he said he notices smudges on top of his gunsafe and it stresses him out. do you know what could be the cause of that? reply if you would. thanks
I have the exact same model of liberty safe. I agree. All you are buying is time and safety from the kids. But it's better than no safe at all. Good video.
I sure wouldn't have bought a Liberty safe. Much better brands out there. They will cost quite a bit more, but are heavier, more steel, tougher door, better fireproofing. If the safe doesn't weigh at least 600 lbs., you are wasting your money.
@@ekraszewski Well, that's the PROBLEM. You see, Liberty sells a LOT of really CHEAP, EASY TO BREAK INTO "secure gun safes".... Maybe, Liberty has a different line of REALLY GOOD GUN SAFES that they sell, but those safes aren't the ones that the company is ACTIVELY PROMOTING. I wouldn't buy a liberty gun safe to secure my automotive tools in my GARAGE.
One quick question. I had to leave my last safe behind and it was a combination lock and the new ones are digital and they seem to twist off easily. Can't someone bring their own digital combo and plug theirs in? Idk just asking 🤔
I love how people always talk about the "Cutability". Statistically most safe are pried open and very few safes are actually cut out. So bolting the safe down is the best thing you can do, location is also important. There are plenty of videos of where not to put your safe.
If you have the money, Amsec makes TL-30x6 rated gun safes. That rating means all sides are rated the same as the door and has been professional tested and certified to be resistant for at least 30 minutes against all common tools. That said, the price puts it out of range for most people and is overkill for all but the most expensive collections.
My gun room , 3 safes are bolted down , then I framed walls around them , built cabinets all around and over top , one safe has two four drawers filing cabinets built in on either side for mags , parts , tools , etc 12 ft x 36 inch work bench , cabinets above with 36 inches of space between, I have pistol safes under the bench built into the custom cabinetry , locking doors to get to them , bolted and impossible to get a grip on When I remodeled I had a very well thought out plan As for fire proof doc safes , you need to get fire proof pouches , then put them on the FP safe , a video tape will survive
I went with Sturdy. But the most important thing is the firearms being locked and secure. I just felt Sturdy offers the best steel thickness for the price.
I like my 15 year old Champion Challenger 25. It has 10 gauge steel, and weighs about 800 pounds empty. That's better than most safes they now sell. I agree with him about getting a bigger one than you think you need. You always find more things to put in it.
Some thoughts on safes: A cardboard box stashed someplace when nobody knows that you have guns is more secure than a decent safe and security system when people know you are on a trip . Felons tend to git dirty jobs building things, moving things, and taking things apart. These guys already have skills and tools to open or move your safe. They also don’t care if they ruin your pretty hardwood floors. Your nosey neighbors may be up your butt about every blade of grass in your yard but probably will be watching tv when your house is violated. Police or fire might be located near, but might already be busy with something else, or just not motivated to deal with it. You might watch things on your phone, and watch them leave before help arrives, if help comes at all. Bolting the safe down is good, but the downside is it means there is a fixture to pry against. Insurance or warranties are great if you never need them. If they actually support you when needed is a whole different matter. As far as how much to spend vs value.... With firearms , monetary value is secondary. A cheap hi-point is just as deadly in the wrong hands as your rarest collector’s item firearm. I’ve also heard of someone stealing train rails without powered equipment. Some people will steal anything.
Man, you are so RIGHT ON!! A safe, A WALL, is just an obstacle, slows you down, but doesn't work if there is no one to monitor it. Great video, just purchased the same one, thanks to your vid.
When you go to upgrade, look at the guy in Jay and the guy who sells only Liberty safes in Mobile. I guarantee you they have a combination lock version.
Which leads to my question to the "Yakker" : ) "If an EMP fries your lock, how do you get in... not eventually, but QUICKLY?" (considering that you may have trouble getting an appointment with a locksmith after any such event)
My electronic lock comes off. Behind it is a keyed lock. Not a Liberty, it’s a Field & Stream. It’s a big safe, maybe a 60 gun. I got a great deal on it because the guy was moving and couldn’t get the safe out of his basement. I’ve located it inside a walk in closet. It’s nearly impossible to get to either side or the back. It’s best defense is the suit jackets I have blocking its view.
Thank God, finally someone tells the truth about guns safes, of course you are a fellow Vet. If you see a video on you tube that starts with "Best Safes Under...." Skip it. They re only good if you are keeping your 5 yr old from your weapons. Almost all are 14 ga non hardened steel which can be cut thru with a 20$ grinder from Harbor Freight. I saw a video with a "ruff tuff" looking guy in tactical dress with lots of tattoos pointing out the "Best Safe" and it weighed a whopping 105 lbs, which is 120 lbs less than the bottom half of my tool box which would have been more secure. You said it great, you are buying time, absolute gem of a statement. Install secondary protection like alarms and monitoring of your home. The enclosure suggestion is great, I am welding up steel plates around it, so only choice is thru the front. Great video brother, you did your duty by telling the plain truth about gun safes.
Ideally, a 7ga safe with a minimum 1/4 inch door thickness that seals well and has a internal self locking glass mechanism that if the lock is violently tampered with the safe permanently locks. Also, the safe should be floor anchored to a solid structure, preferred concrete. The safe should be located in a reinforced storm room or a room that is somewhat hidden to visitors.
If you don't bolt it down and you load up the door storage pockets with heavy stuff the safe will fall on you when you open the door especially on carpet. Order a safe with mechanical lock S&G or LaGard it will be $100 cheaper and last forever, you can also change the combo yourself if you get a change key.
Here’s a little advice for the wise and the otherwise. Keep your eyes open for Wright Line Data Bank safes. I bought one. It’s about 7’ tall, 5’ wide and 4’ deep. The entire house could burn down around it and it will keep my guns and papers safe because it is fully insulated and UL rated to protect computer tapes from fire. It is very heavy, so nobody is going to walk off with it. In fact I have to hire a wrecker when I want to transport it to another home. Go ahead and try to cut into it. You will soon give up. Now the best part, the cost. I paid $15 dollars for it. That’s right, fifteen dollars. I know of companies who have paid people $300 to come and get them! The down side is that you must put them on a concrete floor. Mine was in a garage for years. I don’t know of a wood floor in a home that would hold one. Or if you have a walk out basement with a big door to get it inside then you are fine. Keep your eyes open for them. They are sitting in factories and such, no longer being used and companies are delighted to get rid of them. Great gun safes! Just remember that all shelves must be glued to the inside walls. Don’t drill holes from the inside.
If it's not a TL rated safe then don't waste your money. That safe can be busted into with a nice long 35 dollar pry bar and about 3 mins. I'm sorry but this dude dosent know what he's talking about. You get a tl 15 or a tl-30 (which are expensive) then no average Joe is getting in that thing. It will take two burglars hours and hours and hours and possibly an entire day of grinding and cutting and drilling and will probably hit a relocker on a higher end safe and will probably never open it unless they are full blown locksmiths and know your safe moseld inside and out. That cheap safe he has will keep an honest person honest but will not do 💩 against someone who's got 15 mins and a few cheap tools
Bolting it down to concrete is most important even cheap glorified filing cabinets will be much harder to breach without a cutter. But yeah anyone who buys a sub $1000 safe to protect 10s of thousands in valuables probably doesn't have their priorities in order. Spend the extra money for something with real heavy plate steel and bolt it down. Then unless your burglars come with serious tools or a plasma cutter they won't get in.
You can order the safe with the dial lock instead of the "E" lock. The E locks are supposed to be faster and most of them have a built in light in case you have to open it in the dark. Yes, some people use a flashlight with a magnet on their safe in case they need a light to open the dial lock but it's still easier when you only have to push a few buttons and those buttons are lit up in the dark. I've also been deciding on which safe to get and whether to get a dial lock or an E lock, still not decided and I'm hoping for a good Christmas sale to bring the prices down a bit. Thanks for taking the time for a really good video, well done.
Did my research. Pretty much came to the same conclusions as OP. 30-45 min fireproof is all you need bc anything after that your guns are toast. 12-14 gauge metal is pretty standard. They're all lined with sheetrock/gypsum. I went with elock that has a key for manual override. Bought LED strip kit and lined interior with motion sensor. Am happy with choice. Look out for a black Friday sale, got mine at 50% off.
@@esolis85623 WOW!! Getting 50% off is fantastic. If you don't mind sharing, where did you get your safe? A lot of people say a dehumidifier is good to have. That would require a safe with an access hole for an extension cord. What do you think about a dehumidifier? I definitely would like the door panel for handguns, storage, etc and some sort of interior light is a must. Interior lighting seems important whether it comes with the safe or is an aftermarket purchase. The motion sensor is a great idea.
@@Tyanmax99 Liberty 24 gun safe on a Black Friday sale at Tractor Supply. Black Friday is coming up, look for them deals and get in early. The interior LED kit was aftermarket off Amazon, Twang and Bang did a video on it.
@@notsosilentmajority1 yes, a dehumidifier is a good idea especially if you live in a humid area. Haven't bought one yet but plan to soon. Ran power strip to power LED lights. Got safe from Tractor Supply 2 years ago. Check out Twang and Bang youtube, he did a video on his interior LED light set-up, I copied what he did. Edit: my safe didn't come with access hole. I drilled it myself, ran cord through rear of safe. Power strip/gromet from Homedepot, LED kit ~ Amazon.
Another layer you did not mention is cameras or video coverage. Prices have come down, because of the technology. It will not be a safe but added layer, so you have eyes on the ground and maybe an early warning system. Just a thought and hope it helps in your thinking of another layers.
Dang, I just upgraded from the Stack On cabinet (now for ammo) I bought the Winchester 26 gun safe on sale at Tractor Supply. I do love the way it’s laid out and seems very much like your Liberty. But I wish I had seen your video first. That said, now it’s getting encased in concrete and I’ll also make a frontal disguise so it’s not obvious. Already with concrete anchors... I don’t live in an urban area, my first line of defense is, well, let the bad guys figure that out for themselves on the way to the morgue... As always, Great Video! Thanks for all the great tips👍 you really got me thinking, and thanks for Your Service 👍🙏🇺🇸
Writing for a 50-year friend here. I helped him build a secure structure these last few years. He has a pair of safes and a strong high value tool box. In a secure room. That's in a secure building. And thieves can go to work on those safes AFTER they get past the Diebold vault door, the multi-layered steel door, and the compound walls of pre-stressed concrete, spectra, fiberglass and steel. There are plenty of warning notes on the outside, because I REALLY don't want to hurt or kill anybody ... yes, I know ... some fools insist on dying, but it doesn't take much work to make it very hard for them. Inside the room are a "Train Horn" and a few big cans of Mace that are set to fall on their heads as a foretaste of what awaits intruders. The innermost doors have warning signs against cutting or burning to keep the firemen and police officers safe. Those doors are heavy, welded, with properly prescribed, labeled and engineered heavy blast vents to put even fools on notice. In case of fire, the fire department will be greeted with warning signage explaining hazardous materials and relieving them of any duty to proceed any further into the structure. "Go away and have some coffee!" You see, Security is a hobby for me, and he has humored me. He has given me a room in his shop for whatever I want to build and keep there. So as long as I was helping with the building, I just played to his Mrs. Winchester and kept compounding layers of security as we built. Now, what would thieves find if they actually got into the place? Ultimately ... (when we move out) a small table and a horseshoe. It's all been planned as a tremendous joke. Like Al Capone's vault.
Neither Liberty nor its local dealer cared when my safe was breached and didn't even offer to fix it. Wireless alarms and video systems can be breached with cheap signal jammers. In addition to the drywall brand and thickness of steel, check to see that both are located throughout the door and unit. Some makers save $ but not fully enclosing the box or putting thinner metal in the back. Thickness of the door surface is important to ward against prying.
I'm in LE. Seen these cut open, usually on the side/back. All I can say is this: make is as hard as possible for the sh*t-heads to get your stuff from your property. That way, hopefully, they go pick on your neighbor's house instead. Fill them with ammo and they get even heavier!
Thank you for your military service and for protecting me and my family’s freedoms. And thanks for the info. I’m looking for safes for the past few months. I needed this.
If you rap it with your knuckles and it goes, "ting," it's not a safe. It's a steel cabinet. If your knuckled bleed, you might just have yourself a safe.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
As a firefighter, I have 2 pointers for you to improve the potential outcome for your safe in the case of a fire. 1. Do not store ammunition or powder in your safe, it can and will cook off or burn. 2. As you mentioned the primary fire protection for your safe is the from the sheetrock inside the safe. You can improve the fire resistance of your safe by adding more layers of sheetrock outside of the safe as well. We were responding to a car fire inside of a basement garage with only a single layer of 5/8" sheetrock between the fire, and the studs / floor joists. The car was burning for at least 5-7min before our arrival. We were able to quickly extinguish the fire that had been rolling from the engine compartment up to the ceiling of the garage. The flames did not breach or even damage the sheetrock ceiling aside from damage to the exposed surface layer. To add more fire resistance add several layers of sheetrock to all sides that are not directly against a brick or concrete wall and you can add multiple layers of sheetrock to the inside of a closet door that could install in front of your safe.
Yes- type X.
I’m Australia it’s illegal to leave your ammo out of your safe it has to be in a safe and if found it’s not you get finned and loose your gun
@@yeahnah9672 Will they let you use a separate ammo locker? Myself and most of my friends keep our guns in a fire rated safe and the ammo in a secure ammo locker, i.e. a cheaper gun safe that is not fire rated. If you do end up needing to keep it in the same safe, I would put it on the top shelf and put several layers of drywall between the ammo and the firearms.
@@rpeltz I believe you can but unfortunately the law is very gray in Australia, you have to carry a firearms license, photo id and the post office recipient, to get a new gun it costs over $100 and has to be approved which takes over a week and to start your gun license it’s $360 to just fill the application
@@yeahnah9672 Bummer. Freedom lives no more there...
The best safe, is a safe that nobody knows you have.
Yea but the person who sold it to u will always know u have it 😉😉
@@albaniancowboy2767 To your point the last house and safe we had was delivered by a professional that literally did so under the cover of darkness and placed a refrigerator box over top of the safe.
@@Scotty_in_Ohio thats actually pretty cool but I was just being a smart ass
@@Scotty_in_Ohio If I saw you getting a fridge delivered at night, I’d think gun safe. Not fridge.
Yes
Great video. I'm thankful that the local cops take about 3 minutes to get to my house. But I don't have to worry about my guns anymore because I lost most of them when my kayak tipped over.
You too? Happened to me on a beautiful sunny 90 degree day and a sudden blizzard caused me to loose all my guns. Saved the kayak though.
On a very coincidental election day mine too were all lost in a boating accident
@@mikeryan6277 Doesn't really matter... If you eventually get caught with any weapon that you reported lost or stolen, you will be going to prison.
So you better hope they will remain hidden.
Don't hate me for the info...I'm in the same boat.
@@davidmarkwald450 seems like it may be a fine line between going to prison and going to war, I hope neither, although are history shows a lot of blood has been shed because other have infringed on our inalienable rights.
@@mikeryan6277 Hopefully as the Dems really muck things up for the country, more and more Dems will regret their mistake of being misled and finally throw their support behind conservative views.
People can only take so much before SHTF.
We will only see change when all the chaos starts to affect the Dems, like what they thrust onto us.
I can't wait till the Dems start eating their own.
It's imperative that certain individuals be eliminated from the equation, if this country is ever to recover.
Interesting thought...Before Jan. 20, 2021, if Biden and everyone associated with him were on a flight that crashed and killed all. Do you think that the Dems would then want to do a new election? Of course they would. It would give them that chance to rig things even MORE to their advantage.
Just like Eric Holder said...
If they go low , WE KICK THEM! Always remember who the Dems are, and what they represent. Our way of life depends on it.
Liberty Safe also doesn't tell you that they'll give your gun safe combo the the Federal Government without your consent without requiring a warrant.
What owner doesn’t change the combination?
@@atoiler1389 They gave them the master code.
There is no master code for any current model Liberty Safe. Stop spreading falsehoods
What company doesn't? Does all do this? What about American Security?
Amen! I just posted that as well.
Retired firefighter here. Never saw a gun safe of any quality survive a full house fire. Started lockpicking as a hobby. Discovered I could beat a lot of safes in less than 20 minutes and I'm a beginner. It would take a lot of work just to find my safe. It's in a tight place with little room to work on it. Basically, it's to keep the kids safe.
Could not be better said......Say's another retired firefighter
You can cut into a safe in 20 seconds,....
My kid has gotten to big to keep in the safe.
Fort knox safe will take care of valuables in a fire. Most big box store safes will not make it past a few minutes in a real fire . Most people won't spend the money to buy a safe that really works in conditions. This $700 safe wont make it through house fire agreed.
@@richardmoreno5160 I don’t have a gun that cost less than 700 so my safe will definitely cost atleast 3000
The best security In order of importance:
1) Make sure people don't know you have anything worth stealing to begin with.
2) Don't prominently display your safe-In fact hide it as well as you can.
3) The art of deception. Sure have a visible gun safe with a few 'sacrificial' cheapo guns inside. Hide all the good shit in a false wall in another BETTER safe.
4) Make your property a hard target. Good lighting, security system & cameras, barking dog, etc.
Yes but not tOO hard a target,m you don't want to be mistaken for a trap house, 10 cameras and 3 dogs outside in not a great idea.
@@mytuberforyou 3D print tree knots to hold your sensors, and no one will know they are there.
Dogs are to noisy. A cat they won't know is their till it is playing with their eyeballs like a ball of yarn.
@@mytuberforyou what’s a “trap house”? What do you mean?
@@mikeike7114 drug house where dealers sell meth or other drugs and keep the junkies inside doing the drugs. Hence the drug users are "trapped" buying their drugs from that supplier until they run out of money.
My point is a lot of cameras or overt security may draw suspicion.
The First Point is Above Everything Else! The Most Secure thing is that Nobody even knows exists!
Great video! You hit a lot of very important points. As a 26+ year LEO veteran I might add - please take quality pictures of EVERYTHING you own including paperwork, serial numbers, VIN numbers etc. put them all on two thumb drives. Put one in your safe and the second in a friends or relatives safe. Police and insurance companies will thank you.
niceee good point !
Best comment. Safes are nothing more than closets. Insurance policy’s are Fort Knox. Take pictures of everything, record expensive possessions with insurance companies, make sure they are INSURING what you want them to insure, UPDATE new items as necessary on your insurance policy. When you get a new car, what’s the first thing you do? Call the insurance company.
When you buy a new firearm, what’s the first thing you do ? Buy a new safe? NO !!!
CALL THE INSURANCE COMPANY !!!!
Send a copy to Big Brother too ;-) kidding, they already have it.
Excellent idea!!!
@@yzmoto80 just don’t do it with guns lol 😂 I trust no one
Nothings a guarantee, but guns in a safe is better than them laying on the bed...
@M walker: Exactly...
And at least you will be able to tell if anyone has been f-ing with them or not... unless it was the CIA, etc. : )
This is the best response to this issue. Firearms stored inside a safe is better than under the bed! If you are paranoid and insecure about safes, then don't buy one!
Under the pillow is better.
@@sydneybird116if you need it, that's the best place for it
Whoever determines how many guns go in a safe is the same guy who determines how many people can sleep in a tent. Most long guns you should count as 2-3 guns against the capacity of the safe.
Love your comparison to people in a tent. I bought a 6 man tent, which really means me and 1 skinny girl. LMAO
Correct the 24 gun safe I had, wouldn't hold 24 long guns. It done good to hold 20. And that was with taking the bolts out to slim them down.
Scott F
I like big girls.
I’m kinda skinny.
Maybe I should get an 8 person tent 🤷♂️
@@helidude3502 😁
Yes Justin. Divide by 4 for a real count.
Be a dck, have an empty safe out in the open and the real one hidden.
Yes, and fill the fake safe with heavy shit.
Not empty, put a broken black powder in it and some movie money lol
I am literally planning this for my house right now. Possibly more than one decoy.
Best way to do it I knew someone who did this and saved them a ton of money. They actually put some old documents and odds and ends . Little Stack of cash in so when it was stolen it wouldn’t be obvious it was a fake . Is case they came back
I been thinking of that if I ever get one. But I think I'd rather just add 3-4 alarms. Two laser alarms one inside one outside and two vibration alarms one inside one on top which alert me via phone and neighbors via sound. Plus additional cameras.
A locked door is only there to keep an honest man out.
A weapon works better, but you have to be there, to catch the bastard.
A lock keeps an honest man honest.
Back it up with an alert and armed home-owner, and that door becomes a lot more secure.
Slow them down a bit...
That's a contradiction. You would never need to keep an honest man out, they would stay out on their own volition.
A locked door is just a layer of protection against dishonest people.
How effective that layer is, depends on how dishonest the person is.
The only benefit I see to a safe is possible Fire Protection, and even that isn't guaranteed.
If someone wants to get into your safe they can just cut the side open.
Smart people don’t tell everyone about their safe.
when you have a internet channel you do.
Bravo !
Dude - I appreciate the video but PLEASE GET TO THE POINT
I bought one of those cheap box store safes years ago. Got it home and the lock broke within a week. I returned it to the store and shifted my strategy. After searching on craigslist for a bit I found a guy that did demo work that had recently demolished an old bank and was selling off the door. I got the door from him for $700. This door is a Mosler made in the 30s and its amazing. The gap in the door is so tight I can hardly wedge a placard into it. I then made a reinforced room in my basement for my new door. Now I have a whole vault in my home that only cost me around about $1300 in materials and a few nights and weekends worth of work. Now not only do I have a place to store valuables, we also now have a panic room and a storm shelter.
Best thing is to keep your safe in a hidden area like behind a false wall, can`t break into a safe that they don`t know you have.
Best is to have a huge heavy tank of a safe obviously found but have everything you want secured in a secret compartment some other room they expect little of value to be in
*ABSOLUTELY WRONG!!!!!* A safe is time. All you need is about 15 minutes or more of security protection in a safe, what time it would take from finding it hidden is not considered. I have no experience and can break into a bank vault. Well, I can break into a bank vault if I had enough time. The most important thing is an electronic security system with monitoring and a VERY LOUD speaker.
Correct
And a decoy safe with few bucks and phoney docs.
@@bobalobalie You remind me of a tee shirt I have. "I don't need Google, my wife knows everything." Your wife should get one for you.
Bolted down or not, I've seen safes stolen by wrapping a chain around it & jerking it out the house with a truck. If they want it bad enough, they're going to get it. Hate thieves with a passion!!!
I've heard of good safes making truck tires spin
If there not worried about time they will get it & take the whole thing.
150 dollars worth of small tools, that a thief has already stolen from somewhere else and they are in the safe in under 3 minutes
@@shanedunn7475 not my safe. They'd need an oxy torch
@@steveo1240 There’s a video of a guy that put a huge one in the middle of his living room bolted down and was like a 10,000$ safe. You could see it through his front window like a display and didn’t think anyone could but sure enough they wrapped a chain around it and Dragged it down the block and away with a truck.
You forgot one of the most important rules. Camouflage if they can not find it they can not break into it.
And if the camouflage is good, you don't need the safe, for burglary that is.
I'm a welder. I built a case around my safe out of AR 500 armour plate. And it's all bolted down. That's all covered by a nice wood case. Liberty uses concrete.
The safe will stay with the house when I sell .
Appears as though you should have just built a safe from scratch lol
I'm a retired sheet metal worker and 74 years old, I can get in your POS gun safe with ease. You are much better off buying a good used TL rated safe, a real cash storage safe. A long time ago a auto repair shop was broken into over and over. So they bought a huge older safe, cut a hole in the back and filled it with concrete then stood it up near the office door. They just hid the cash and checks in a hollow table covered with books and magazines in the costumer waiting room. They would break in and pound on that safe year after year, but they never had another successful robbery.
Ya but could u get passed my cameras? Without hitting my boobies traps? And also find where my real safe is hidden not the decoy? And after all that have enough time to break it open before the cops show up in about 5 minutes? And do u think ur going to cut out and carry a big 400-1000 pound safe. with one or two guys easily? All in that time. If u find it. Plus my neighbors cameras. U may get to it but ur ass sure as hell isn't stealing shit. 😂😂😂😂
When i was in the army i had eight safes in my office. Whensome of the people in my unit that had a "lock out", they forgot their combinations or something else, and couldn't get into their safes. We took the safe to a person qualified to break into the safe, the dude got a big welder, cranked the power way up and got a thick stick and popped a hole in the front just above the knob and had the safe open in seconds.
That big stick was and carbon arc cutting stick which can be used with any welder which produces sufficient amperage to cut just about anything, steel, concrete, rebar, ceramic, stone you name it. Used by welders to gouge weld and make rough cuts when they just need to shear something open, and by rescue crews to cut people out of disaster areas.
Because MOST military/DOD safes are not hard to get into by force. They are just VERY hard to get into COVERTLY Try that trick on a TRTL30 commercial safe and thermal relockers are going off. Then you're going to be there awhile. Try to drill it youre hitting hardplate then the glass shatters and relockers go off and you're in the same place you are torching it.
Hopefully my safe takes a crook as long as this guy drones on to get inside. Because I’ll be doing pretty good.
Lol
He has more mouth than a mule does ass.
I bought a 64-gun Cannon safe in March 2020...the digital lock failed in about 1.5 years. The lock is covered under a "Lifetime" warranty....but too bad the warranty doesnt cover the labor for a locksmith to open your malfunctioning safe lock, which cost 10 times the cost of the cheap replacement parts. The locksmith wants $800 to open the safe, the same price I paid for it. Cannon sent me the replacement lock parts for free, big whoop because theyre useless sitting outside my broken safe. Next time Im spending the money for a mechanical lock, these electric locks made in China are cheap trash.
Mechanical is definitely the way to go
My thoughts exactly. I’ve been looking for a quality safe and the vast majority are these digital locks that have a “back-up” key with a basic tubular lock, which are very easy to pick. eBay sells a tool for like $10 to do it in under a minute.
S&G makes a dual-type digital lock. It's battery powered, but it is also an old school dial. It is the only digital lock that I would consider. And nothing that uses a key
Does it really take 21 minutes to tell the “secret”? 🙄
He's high, man. It just takes him a while.
Exactly. Ridiculous
It’s all about boobie traps. I’ve lost a couple of kids, but hey. That’s friendly fire.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Lmao
Are the gun’s still safe? Then all is good. 🤣
🤣😂🤣
😭😭😭😭
You’re not buying a “Safe”. They’re listed as a “Residential Security Container”. A real safe (as listed by Underwriter Laboratories) would weigh thousands of pounds and would cost far more than most would be willing to spend. The purpose of a residential security container is to deter the smash and grab break in. The logic being that most thieves will not waste time trying to break into it.
You're exactly right!
I bought an antique safe that is the size of a dishwasher,weighs 2000 pounds.
@@Whateva67 that’s pretty cool tbh
Food For Thought: Amongst others, I have a Liberty Centurion 12-Gun SAFE. Although the "container" itself weighs less than 500lbs, Liberty Safe allows even these "smaller" safes to be anchored down. While the unit itself may not weigh a lot, the anchoring to a garage/cement floor creates thousands of pounds of tensile strength.
They won't waste time breaking into it, but they'll also be wasting their time trying to remove it from my pad 👍
You can buy TL15 and TL30 safes on Craigslist for $500. and less. I got one Mosler TL30 for free if I moved it.
I bought a small safe off Craigs list, the guy told me that a safe is to keep your friends out. A determined person who knows their way around tools can defeat most, if not all, gun safes. So a good safe is one that deters most people from unwanted access to your stuff. There are other means of fireproofing than a big metal safe but sometimes you need both. I think you can still buy fire proof pouches or install your safe in a way to give it more fire resistance. A big metal box will be like an oven, once hot; so coatings or fireproof blankets( think oven mitt) can improve resistance to heat.
Imagine they come at your safe with a plasma torch and like a responsible man you are, that's where you store your 5lbs Tannerite.
I feel like 220v works better.
Tannerite can not be set off by flame
4:32 to get to the first point. If somebody wants something of yours, nothing will stop them. You are just discouraging people from making mistakes and basically not bad people. Bad people will do what they want. I love it when people lock screen or sliding glass doors. Why?
I am curious to find out what all the Liberty Safe owners think now that Liberty Safe gave the FBI the master code to someone's safe without a direct subpoena to the company.
Wow thats a bit unsettling to hear.. I am here looking for Reviews and Opinions as I am in the market for a Safe and I was really thinking I liked Liberty. In theory is there brand of safe that would allow for the lock to be changed so nobody would know the master but the owner?
They have to get past me too.
@@_BlueCollarGamerchange the combo and don’t give them the new one. Just know they can’t help you if it fails.
I have a question, I have a gun safe with an E lock.
Can someone unplug my lock and plug their e lock number pad
and open my safe? I do not see how the lock and the number pad know that they are a pair.
I have a true story that proves your "buying time" point. This happened to me when I had just moved out of my parents' house and I was on the second level of a three-story house with two apartments at each level. There was still an old oil tank shed in the back yard where the old oil tanks used to be and this shed was about as tall as the house and it has an interior staircase that led to the back alley with a door at every floor and there was a sort of walkway that bridged the back balcony to the shed. This shed had stood for at least 80 years and it was the original wood, which means it was about as strong as wet cardboard. When I moved in I looked at this and thought, anyone can just break in to the shed from the alley and make their way up the stairs sight unseen and the only thing that stops them from going through those old wood doors is a flimsy little catch hook! I thought this was an invitation for robbers, so I made things a little harder for them; I nailed down a piece of 2x4 on the floor inside so I could place a long 2x4 against the bottom of the handle and have it blocked by that piece nailed to the floor. They would have to break through the door itself before they were able to break that down, and it was quick and easy to take down when I needed to bring the garbage down to the alley. Next was the outside door on my floor, which I just tired with very strong nylon rope to the metal railing of the walkway. So I had put two levels of impediment for anyone trying to break though on my level from inside and guess what happened one day? That's right, the top and bottom tenants got robed but not me. It took me a whole 20 minutes of work to do all of this, and that included figuring out how to do it! In the end, I'd just made it too complicated for robbers to bother with mine, so they went to the next one. So ya, you are buying time and much like staying warm in winter is all about layers, safety is all about layers.
Ain’t nobody reading that book
@@stevedecastro3896 especially not you, am i right?
I read the book 😂Thank you
I read it as well. 🤷♂️
Thank you for your post btw!
I,got a huge safe bolted to the ground in my bedroom…it holds nothing of value….if I get broken into I expect then to spend hours trying to get into it while my actual security system notifies authorities and they get caught….my valuable items are not in my house
I made parts for liberty safe. The safes are not made in USA anymore, they are made in China. The safes are assembled in USA.
Liberty has import models and american made models .
As far as the fire protection on documents, my friend that uses a pop machine also has one of those smaller Sentry fire proof safes rated for 2 hours and he keeps his docs inside that and sets it inside his bigger safe for additional fire protection, insuring even a raging house fire won't destroy his ID docs and records. Just another idea!
I do that too as a retired Firefighter. Just be sure it's sitting on the floor of the safe as that will be the coolest spot.
@@fuzfire Would not actually have thought about this. Thank you for sharing that info!
I called the feds, and they gave me the code to your safe. 🤷🏻 took three minutes.
RUclips algorithm are dangerous 😳
You saved me some time and for that I thank you. You answered most of my questions
Thanks for watching everyone! Do you have preference with a safe? Here is my new video on this safe! ruclips.net/video/hI2ZjiF9HmI/видео.html
Have a liberty Franklin 25 with mechanical lock , no complaints yet!
I have a Liberty...
I have my basic manual combo safe from Cabelas made by Liberty. I'm in an apartment so it works for me. Plus I exceed legal requirements and I have insurance. Oh yeah, Liberty's warranty rocks just as you said near the end of the video. 👍
Great review and info. You also need some kind of dehumidifier like a Golden Rod.
I went through an very exhaustive research several years ago and finally settled on an American Security BF 6636. It is bolted down to the concrete slab to make sure they don't walk off with the 1250 pound beast. Mechanical lock as I distrust electronic locks.
I've been broken into twice unfortunately. Once they broke out and moved a built-in cheaper safe and never got it open. The second time they totally destroyed the top plug on a floor safe and never got it open. Two of my local friends both had the nightmare of being taken hostage to open theirs. If some wants in bad enough they will get in. The security system is more important. The best thing is to limit the time they will have.
Ffs where do you and your friends live?
@@300blkout5 Since there are trials pending and I'm a witness I can't be more specific than IL.
Bro you need to move 😂
@@300blkout5 bet detroit
I get robbed every 2 weeks when my paycheck comes
WHEN the lock warranty is past, and the lock starts to be intermittent, call the lock smith to replace the lock while its still open. Those electronic locks are crap. They will fail. I put a combo lock on mine in year 6 of ownership. It was less than $200.00 with the service call, lock and installation all included.
Good Idea.
I purchased Liberty Lincoln right after 9/11. It has a SG manual combo lock that I never have to worry about batteries. It also has the old school round bolts, not those flat plates
I have a liberty with the old fashion dial. Didn't want the keypad.
The best "covert" safe I have ever seen is an old retired pop machine!!!!! I have a few friends who have "vintage pop machines" as a neat display that don't work any more for a gun cabinet, but the keys and everything else work just fine!! That's what I plan to do! Also on a side note, a good simple storage safe for external hard drives and digital information that could get destroyed if some EMP event were to happen is an old microwave!!! They are radiation shielded and can protect digital info, and those can be hidden pretty easily!!
L
If you are relying on the original lock on a Dixie-Narco or Cavalier coke machine your guns aren't safe at all.
Thanks for the review. There is a difference between a Safe & Security Container. That's consider a residential security container by UL Listings UL RSC. A Safe has a UL Listing of Tool Resistant from UL TL-15, UL TL-30 & UL TL-30x6. Those Safes have a 1" thick steel walls & door. Next down is Burglary Resistant B Class & A Class less than 1" Steel Door & less than 1/2 Steel Walls. AMSEC is once such company that makes Safes. Multiple smaller units & locations is GREAT idea & information... like in the military it's a rifle not a gun... Lol
Thank you for the advice.👍
Looking at Fort Knox Safes , expensive but seem to be a decent product, any input?
You can not go wrong with a Fort Knox
According to the FBI the average break in time is 10 minutes many are as short as 90 seconds. The reality is the VAST majority Burglars are more interested in getting in and out fast (especially with modern home security systems/cams) and don’t have the skills/tools to break a safe. (If its a small one not bolted down they would probably take it with them). Sophisticated burglars certainly do exist but statistically you are unlikely to encounter one. I also find it highly unlikely that tried to break into a safe using power tools with a visible security cameras and alarm sounding Knowing the police will likely arrive before they get in there. Of Course every situation is different and I’m speaking generally here.
How they getting past the 220v I hooked up to it though?
If you have a Liberty safe dealer or a locksmith that carries safes near you, they can put a combination lock on it for you. As for being able to cut in a few places and being able to jimmy the door open.... easier said than done !
A well hidden safe is always your best preventative measure to take.
Your better preventive measure would be to stiffen up the perimeter of the house so they’re less likely to get in anyway.
You might want to upgrade from Liberty since the have a back door code to your safe.
I bought an entry level gun locker to keep everything together and to keep everyone safe who comes in our house. Our neighborhood is safe. I know because some dumbbell forgot to lock the front door when we went on vacation.
The problems in our neighborhood, based on ring doorbells, seem to be teenagers breaking into cars. I’m going to at least bolt it in a closet. I like the bookcase idea. My firearms aren’t high end.
Liberty makes a decent RSC. Those who want real protection will use AMSEC.
Yak, just want to say thank you for your service to our country. Thank you, your family and may God bless you.
I own a safe company Franco Safes And vaults out of Southern California, I like a lot of what you said. It's amazing to me how so many people say that safe company's don't tell you all the these things. I'm very upfront with people that come in and I belive I turn people off because telling them all the facts about security is not what people want to hear. Most people want to be sold the dream that a safe Is a save all protect all, they are not. I will say when I first saw your video I thought you were going to say some fake news type of facts but you hit most of it on the nose, not everything you said was on point but 95% was all perfect. You got a good safe for your application. Good job.
Would it be alright if I picked your brain about some safes and fire ratings?
@@kingofsludge7262 of course let me know how you wold like to reach me.
@@jessefranco9053 awesome, thank you! I have no other medias, so we could do email, or we could keep it here so that other people who might be in my same situation could find the answers to some questions if they have them. Whatever you’d like to do I’m sure we can figure it out
Well thats 20 mins wasted on clickbait that i"ll never get back... thought youd say something useful other than "they dont tell you where the weak points are"
Yep & playing the I'm a Vet card over & over.......quit halfway through
@@cjbecker1683 gotta stretch out the video to rake in those ads!
Thanks for saving me the 20 minutes
@@jonspink4035 yeah, I hate to be the guy that causes video to lose views/ kill watch time, but lengthy explanations of the owner's manual with a little common sense is basically useless. Just more space for ads & monitoring your info
That’s why I came right to the comments lmao
The cheaper line of Liberty safes like you have there tend to only have the digital lock option, if you step up in there line of safes you can get dual action locks that are both mechanical and digital.
The biggest problem with gun safes is that they are so heavy that you can't bring it to your house by yourself. So everyone involved in helping you install it now knows you have guns, what kind of safe and where it is. If they talk about it, then others will know. Too bad you can't buy a safe in parts, assemble it yourself and hide the safe itself.
Cant you? Last time i checked you could buy sheet metal, welding machine, and all the other stuff required. Stick welders are dirt cheap nowdays, and they do great at welding thick steel plates.
Rent a forklift or tractor with fork attachments. Get a heavy duty hand truck. Problem solved.
@@autocompletellc9906 I'm trying to find a solution that isn't so complex and expensive. But thanks for your input.
@@joep8787 Joe, sorry to tell you this, but what you described is necessarily complex. There’s really no way around it if you don’t want anyone involved. So if you can’t maneuver the safe by yourself, you’ll need machinery. Might cost more, but that’s the price to be paid for privacy and strategic advantage.
I work with dozens of brands and have experience moving them, cracking into them, and selling them. I will say that the brands to stay away from are Liberty, Cannon, Century, and any Winchester that weighs less than 500 pounds and doesn’t have bolts on the hinge side of the door.
I will say that Liberty has a great advertising campaign, that’s it. But it irks me to have a company make a safe entirely in china, ship it here, slap a lock on it, now it’s “made in America 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸”
What brand DO you suggest?
My friend bought a Champion, which I am looking into myself. What do you think of that brand?
@@jamespruitt6718 Champion used to be a great safe, I have a Champion Triumph. It’s 5 years old and I love it. But, They have recently reduced steel thicknesses and are now like Liberty, a cheap box with fancy paint. Go with an Amsec or Ft Knox. Save up if you have to, you will only buy one in your lifetime. Buy something your kids will give to their kids. Check out Parker Safes on RUclips.
Very true on the sides. not super thick
If you have Friends over & you have to put your Camera Lenses in the Safe because your afraid they will be Lifted those are not your Friends. Those are people you see on the Post Office wall boards.
Like his wife's boyfriend
Your Ranger Handbook definitely has a few legit kilometers. Gratitude for your Army service. Go Army, Beat Navy!
Marines
@@timothyhawley2408 Only if you were 03.
Boy scouts... lol
When we sold our last home, the buyer wanted to buy my AmSec safe. So, when we built our new home here in TX, I did weeks of research again on safes. I quickly realized that Liberty is the most innovative and high quality safe made. I ended up with a Liberty Franklin 40 - 850 lbs., 110-minute UL fire rating, Level 5 security. It’s an amazing safe. As you said, they only buy you time. But make sure you bolt your safe to the floor. Congrats on your great new safe!
AMSEC is the choice of those who want high level protection. Liberty is for those who want an RSC (anyone who does not know the difference between safes and RSC is already in trouble...) with a fancy paint job. There's a reason you will find AMSEC in commercial applications. Liberty? Not so much...
I owned an AmSec safe for 20 years. I liked it. My Liberty is just much better in pretty much every quantifiable way. There are reasons why they’re the #1 seller in the US. I’m totally familiar with RSC’s vs. TL-15, 30, etc. The Liberty I bought ticks every box that I wanted/needed, and is definitely a higher quality than my AmSec was. So enjoy your AmSec! Both are in the top tier.
Until the feds ask politely for the back door code to your safe. Liberty safe is more like tyranny safe
And they give out the access code to the Fed’s 👎
One question, have you heard about rare earth magnets that are readily available to purchase can be used to energize key pad spring loaded bolt & open your safe door? Rare earth magnets are super powerful, will fry any type of electronics circuitry. It's the reason I won't buy my next safe witha key pad. What are your thoughts on the subject?
2:44 “If a meth head wants your junk, he’s gonna beat it to a pulverine, he’s gonna squeeze the juice out, until he’s tired” 😂
No one is moving my safe without equipment. It's 1200 pounds empty. Prob 3000 pounds plus loaded
My police officer friends tell me to use the safe as a decoy hide the good stuff else where in the house
If someone takes the whole thing they get nothing
lol
Now there's an idea for making decoy safes!
Reminds me of Kramer and the multiple door locks. He locked every other lock so for every lock a burglar picked open, another lock would be picked closed. Brilliant!
Display a safe with a few expendable goodies in it and hide the safe with the good stuff.
If they crack the decoy and find crap they know you have more hidden. Throw them a bone and they just think you don't really have much. Unless of course it's someone that knows you have more stuff.
@Hint of Zas give me a break
Don't have a house that anyone would think there is anything of value in. Rusty trucks and crap everywhere and no one will want to look for anything of value. These are not the droids we are looking for. Thanks for sharing, I love your videos, new subscriber.
Tell that to the code enforcement cops... lol
Security is most effective in layers, the first and foremost layer being secrecy. What is not even a thought cannot be exploited.
my friend lives alone and is always home. and sometimes he said he notices smudges on top of his gunsafe and it stresses him out.
do you know what could be the cause of that? reply if you would. thanks
I have the exact same model of liberty safe. I agree. All you are buying is time and safety from the kids. But it's better than no safe at all. Good video.
How do you open the safe with provided keys and where is the key hole if the combination device fails? Please elaborate.
I sure wouldn't have bought a Liberty safe. Much better brands out there. They will
cost quite a bit more, but are heavier, more steel, tougher door, better fireproofing.
If the safe doesn't weigh at least 600 lbs., you are wasting your money.
Liberty makes good safes. You just have to spend a lot more than $600.00.
@@ekraszewski Well, that's the PROBLEM. You see, Liberty sells a LOT
of really CHEAP, EASY TO BREAK INTO "secure gun safes"....
Maybe, Liberty has a different line of REALLY GOOD GUN SAFES that
they sell, but those safes aren't the ones that the company is ACTIVELY
PROMOTING. I wouldn't buy a liberty gun safe to secure my
automotive tools in my GARAGE.
Most flyby crooks dont come in with cutters, they get the easy stuff and leave. Any safe just slows the crooks down even the expensive ones
I actually converted a walk in closet, to a gun room. Locks from outside. Not as secure as a safe but good for my needs.
Not the good ole kick the door
One quick question. I had to leave my last safe behind and it was a combination lock and the new ones are digital and they seem to twist off easily. Can't someone bring their own digital combo and plug theirs in? Idk just asking 🤔
I love how people always talk about the "Cutability". Statistically most safe are pried open and very few safes are actually cut out. So bolting the safe down is the best thing you can do, location is also important. There are plenty of videos of where not to put your safe.
If you have the money, Amsec makes TL-30x6 rated gun safes. That rating means all sides are rated the same as the door and has been professional tested and certified to be resistant for at least 30 minutes against all common tools. That said, the price puts it out of range for most people and is overkill for all but the most expensive collections.
Good info, remember the electronic lock will be toast after a fire. Look for a lock with a bypass key.
My gun room , 3 safes are bolted down , then I framed walls around them , built cabinets all around and over top , one safe has two four drawers filing cabinets built in on either side for mags , parts , tools , etc
12 ft x 36 inch work bench , cabinets above with 36 inches of space between,
I have pistol safes under the bench built into the custom cabinetry , locking doors to get to them , bolted and impossible to get a grip on
When I remodeled I had a very well thought out plan
As for fire proof doc safes , you need to get fire proof pouches , then put them on the FP safe , a video tape will survive
I went with Sturdy. But the most important thing is the firearms being locked and secure. I just felt Sturdy offers the best steel thickness for the price.
Smart choice. Sturdy Safes are a lot of steel for the money. Their 1/4" body is much stronger than 10 or 12 gauge.
I was wondering if spraying mine with that heavy duty bed liner material or something to that nature. What do u think waste of time?
I like my 15 year old Champion Challenger 25. It has 10 gauge steel, and weighs about 800 pounds empty. That's better than most safes they now sell. I agree with him about getting a bigger one than you think you need. You always find more things to put in it.
Have they fixed the issue about being able to open them with a strong magnet?
I think you’re confused. It’s not a Sentry safe.
Some thoughts on safes:
A cardboard box stashed someplace when nobody knows that you have guns is more secure than a decent safe and security system when people know you are on a trip .
Felons tend to git dirty jobs building things, moving things, and taking things apart.
These guys already have skills and tools to open or move your safe. They also don’t care if they ruin your pretty hardwood floors.
Your nosey neighbors may be up your butt about every blade of grass in your yard but probably will be watching tv when your house is violated.
Police or fire might be located near, but might already be busy with something else, or just not motivated to deal with it.
You might watch things on your phone, and watch them leave before help arrives, if help comes at all.
Bolting the safe down is good, but the downside is it means there is a fixture to pry against.
Insurance or warranties are great if you never need them. If they actually support you when needed is a whole different matter.
As far as how much to spend vs value....
With firearms , monetary value is secondary.
A cheap hi-point is just as deadly in the wrong hands as your rarest collector’s item firearm.
I’ve also heard of someone stealing train rails without powered equipment.
Some people will steal anything.
Geez loueez...
If nuthin's worthwhile, you sound like a nice, soft target.
Train rails tho😭😭😭😭😭
😂😂🤦🏽🤦🏽
Man, you are so RIGHT ON!! A safe, A WALL, is just an obstacle, slows you down, but doesn't work if there is no one to monitor it. Great video, just purchased the same one, thanks to your vid.
When you go to upgrade, look at the guy in Jay and the guy who sells only Liberty safes in Mobile. I guarantee you they have a combination lock version.
Which leads to my question to the "Yakker" : )
"If an EMP fries your lock, how do you get in... not eventually, but QUICKLY?" (considering that you may have trouble getting an appointment with a locksmith after any such event)
My electronic lock comes off. Behind it is a keyed lock. Not a Liberty, it’s a Field & Stream. It’s a big safe, maybe a 60 gun. I got a great deal on it because the guy was moving and couldn’t get the safe out of his basement.
I’ve located it inside a walk in closet. It’s nearly impossible to get to either side or the back. It’s best defense is the suit jackets I have blocking its view.
I would have at least 2 ways of opening up a safe door. Key or dial .
Thank God, finally someone tells the truth about guns safes, of course you are a fellow Vet. If you see a video on you tube that starts with "Best Safes Under...." Skip it. They re only good if you are keeping your 5 yr old from your weapons. Almost all are 14 ga non hardened steel which can be cut thru with a 20$ grinder from Harbor Freight. I saw a video with a "ruff tuff" looking guy in tactical dress with lots of tattoos pointing out the "Best Safe" and it weighed a whopping 105 lbs, which is 120 lbs less than the bottom half of my tool box which would have been more secure. You said it great, you are buying time, absolute gem of a statement. Install secondary protection like alarms and monitoring of your home. The enclosure suggestion is great, I am welding up steel plates around it, so only choice is thru the front. Great video brother, you did your duty by telling the plain truth about gun safes.
Ideally, a 7ga safe with a minimum 1/4 inch door thickness that seals well and has a internal self locking glass mechanism that if the lock is violently tampered with the safe permanently locks. Also, the safe should be floor anchored to a solid structure, preferred concrete. The safe should be located in a reinforced storm room or a room that is somewhat hidden to visitors.
If you don't bolt it down and you load up the door storage pockets with heavy stuff the safe will fall on you when you open the door especially on carpet. Order a safe with mechanical lock S&G or LaGard it will be $100 cheaper and last forever, you can also change the combo yourself if you get a change key.
Here’s a little advice for the wise and the otherwise. Keep your eyes open for Wright Line Data Bank safes. I bought one. It’s about 7’ tall, 5’ wide and 4’ deep. The entire house could burn down around it and it will keep my guns and papers safe because it is fully insulated and UL rated to protect computer tapes from fire. It is very heavy, so nobody is going to walk off with it. In fact I have to hire a wrecker when I want to transport it to another home. Go ahead and try to cut into it. You will soon give up. Now the best part, the cost. I paid $15 dollars for it. That’s right, fifteen dollars. I know of companies who have paid people $300 to come and get them! The down side is that you must put them on a concrete floor. Mine was in a garage for years. I don’t know of a wood floor in a home that would hold one. Or if you have a walk out basement with a big door to get it inside then you are fine. Keep your eyes open for them. They are sitting in factories and such, no longer being used and companies are delighted to get rid of them. Great gun safes! Just remember that all shelves must be glued to the inside walls. Don’t drill holes from the inside.
I'm looking at these now - keeping an eye out for a local auction - these things are beasts!
I think I'll be buying a fort Knox safe
If it's not a TL rated safe then don't waste your money. That safe can be busted into with a nice long 35 dollar pry bar and about 3 mins.
I'm sorry but this dude dosent know what he's talking about. You get a tl 15 or a tl-30 (which are expensive) then no average Joe is getting in that thing. It will take two burglars hours and hours and hours and possibly an entire day of grinding and cutting and drilling and will probably hit a relocker on a higher end safe and will probably never open it unless they are full blown locksmiths and know your safe moseld inside and out. That cheap safe he has will keep an honest person honest but will not do 💩 against someone who's got 15 mins and a few cheap tools
Bolting it down to concrete is most important even cheap glorified filing cabinets will be much harder to breach without a cutter. But yeah anyone who buys a sub $1000 safe to protect 10s of thousands in valuables probably doesn't have their priorities in order. Spend the extra money for something with real heavy plate steel and bolt it down. Then unless your burglars come with serious tools or a plasma cutter they won't get in.
@@liamvosefski2795 Easiest way to make your cheap safe a better on is to mount it into a wall so people can't even access the top and sides
What is the next best option if bolting it in is not a possibility?
You can order the safe with the dial lock instead of the "E" lock. The E locks are supposed to be faster and most of them have a built in light in case you have to open it in the dark. Yes, some people use a flashlight with a magnet on their safe in case they need a light to open the dial lock but it's still easier when you only have to push a few buttons and those buttons are lit up in the dark. I've also been deciding on which safe to get and whether to get a dial lock or an E lock, still not decided and I'm hoping for a good Christmas sale to bring the prices down a bit. Thanks for taking the time for a really good video, well done.
Did my research. Pretty much came to the same conclusions as OP. 30-45 min fireproof is all you need bc anything after that your guns are toast. 12-14 gauge metal is pretty standard. They're all lined with sheetrock/gypsum.
I went with elock that has a key for manual override. Bought LED strip kit and lined interior with motion sensor. Am happy with choice. Look out for a black Friday sale, got mine at 50% off.
@@esolis85623 What did you end up going with? And where'd you get it?
@@esolis85623
WOW!! Getting 50% off is fantastic. If you don't mind sharing, where did you get your safe? A lot of people say a dehumidifier is good to have. That would require a safe with an access hole for an extension cord. What do you think about a dehumidifier? I definitely would like the door panel for handguns, storage, etc and some sort of interior light is a must. Interior lighting seems important whether it comes with the safe or is an aftermarket purchase. The motion sensor is a great idea.
@@Tyanmax99 Liberty 24 gun safe on a Black Friday sale at Tractor Supply. Black Friday is coming up, look for them deals and get in early. The interior LED kit was aftermarket off Amazon, Twang and Bang did a video on it.
@@notsosilentmajority1 yes, a dehumidifier is a good idea especially if you live in a humid area. Haven't bought one yet but plan to soon. Ran power strip to power LED lights. Got safe from Tractor Supply 2 years ago. Check out Twang and Bang youtube, he did a video on his interior LED light set-up, I copied what he did.
Edit: my safe didn't come with access hole. I drilled it myself, ran cord through rear of safe. Power strip/gromet from Homedepot, LED kit ~ Amazon.
Another layer you did not mention is cameras or video coverage. Prices have come down, because of the technology. It will not be a safe but added layer, so you have eyes on the ground and maybe an early warning system. Just a thought and hope it helps in your thinking of another layers.
Dang, I just upgraded from the Stack On cabinet (now for ammo) I bought the Winchester 26 gun safe on sale at Tractor Supply. I do love the way it’s laid out and seems very much like your Liberty. But I wish I had seen your video first. That said, now it’s getting encased in concrete and I’ll also make a frontal disguise so it’s not obvious. Already with concrete anchors...
I don’t live in an urban area, my first line of defense is, well, let the bad guys figure that out for themselves on the way to the morgue...
As always, Great Video! Thanks for all the great tips👍 you really got me thinking, and thanks for Your Service 👍🙏🇺🇸
Thanks for watching Robert!
Winchester 26 gun safe is a damn good safe and a reasonable price..
Writing for a 50-year friend here.
I helped him build a secure structure these last few years. He has a pair of safes and a strong high value tool box. In a secure room. That's in a secure building. And thieves can go to work on those safes AFTER they get past the Diebold vault door, the multi-layered steel door, and the compound walls of pre-stressed concrete, spectra, fiberglass and steel. There are plenty of warning notes on the outside, because I REALLY don't want to hurt or kill anybody ... yes, I know ... some fools insist on dying, but it doesn't take much work to make it very hard for them. Inside the room are a "Train Horn" and a few big cans of Mace that are set to fall on their heads as a foretaste of what awaits intruders. The innermost doors have warning signs against cutting or burning to keep the firemen and police officers safe. Those doors are heavy, welded, with properly prescribed, labeled and engineered heavy blast vents to put even fools on notice. In case of fire, the fire department will be greeted with warning signage explaining hazardous materials and relieving them of any duty to proceed any further into the structure. "Go away and have some coffee!"
You see, Security is a hobby for me, and he has humored me. He has given me a room in his shop for whatever I want to build and keep there. So as long as I was helping with the building, I just played to his Mrs. Winchester and kept compounding layers of security as we built.
Now, what would thieves find if they actually got into the place? Ultimately ... (when we move out) a small table and a horseshoe. It's all been planned as a tremendous joke. Like Al Capone's vault.
if 400 pounds warps or distorts your floor, you need to get out of that house. I moved 1500 pound old safe into my house alone. Man up.
Yep, I have an 1100 pound (empty) safe in a mobile home. I just made sure it's bolted down in an area that's supported underneath the house.
You moved a 1500lb safe into your house alone? I’ll take shit that never happened for $500 Alex.
@@gunnargraham6460 Apparently you have no knowledge of mechanical advantage and how to apply it. DUH !
Neither Liberty nor its local dealer cared when my safe was breached and didn't even offer to fix it. Wireless alarms and video systems can be breached with cheap signal jammers.
In addition to the drywall brand and thickness of steel, check to see that both are located throughout the door and unit. Some makers save $ but not fully enclosing the box or putting thinner metal in the back. Thickness of the door surface is important to ward against prying.
I'm in LE. Seen these cut open, usually on the side/back. All I can say is this: make is as hard as possible for the sh*t-heads to get your stuff from your property. That way, hopefully, they go pick on your neighbor's house instead. Fill them with ammo and they get even heavier!
How do you feel about it now. Wondering if the OEM back door can be disabled?
Thank you for your military service and for protecting me and my family’s freedoms. And thanks for the info. I’m looking for safes for the past few months. I needed this.
Thanks! Glad it helped Jon!
Welp, you might want to get a refund on that Liberty gun safe now.
If you rap it with your knuckles and it goes, "ting," it's not a safe. It's a steel cabinet. If your knuckled bleed, you might just have yourself a safe.