Great video. Simple way to work out small angles, i.e. less than 10 degrees is the 1:60 rule. 1mm drop at 60mm = 1 degree. 10cm at 6 metres = 100mm at 6000mm = 1/60 = 1 degree. 5cm at 3.0m = 50/3000= 100/6000 =1/60 = 1 degree. So, 80mm drop over 4 metres = 80/4000 = 120/6000 (multiplied both sides by 1.5 to get a multiple of 60 on the right) =1.2/60 = 1.2 degrees. Seems complicated but look at it the other way around: What yo actually want is a 1 degree drop. So you want 1mm per 60mm. So just divide your length by 60 and and you’ve got your one degree drop. 4 metres = 4000 mm. 4000/60 = 66.7 mm drop for one degree or 133.3 mm for 2 degrees. Probably best to round it up to 70 or 80 and you’re in the ball park but slightly over your 1 degree. Once you’re practiced at it you’ll be able get the right drop for 1 degree in an instant in your head. 6.0 metres and you want a 1.5 degree drop, 150mm. 3 metres is obviously half of that: 75mm. 1 degree is 100 mm for 6 metres. Now isn’t it easy? 4 metres and you want a 1 degree slope. 4/6 (or 2/3) of 100mm = 67 mm, rounded as you like. 3 metres is 3/6 (or 1/2j of 100mm = 50 mm. 1 metre is 1/6 of 100 mm = 16.7 mm per metre. Your 20mm per metre is perfect at 1.2 degrees. The 1/60 rule used to be taught to every nautical/aeronautical pilot/navigator. For small angles it is incredibly accurate and easy. Fabulous video and great teaching style btw!
Excellent videos guys, thank you so much! Just a quick question and I know there are a lot of opinions out there.. do you normally use OSB 3 or 4 and what thickness do you use for the walls and roof?
this is a great video that is very informative, keep making them your subs will grow! it might be good to include a bit at the beginning with all the tools needed and people can order them using your affiliate code for a win/win
great collection of clips. I intend to build my own garden room. It will be quite close to a fence on one side. Any issues wrapping, battening and cladding this one side while horizontal, before fixing in place?
Loving the videos, going to embark on a very similar 5.4x 4m build in the spring. Do you have a list of materials (quantities) for planning and budgeting purposes? Thanks Tim
Hi. this is really clear. Thanks. I want to do something similar but am worried the timber along the bottom will rot as not able to breathe. Is that something I need to worry about and, if so, is there a way to prevent it?
New subscriber here after coming across your part 3 video. Looking forward to watching your other videos. Question from an amateur: once you've squared up the edges of your timber, doesn't that reduce/remove pressure treatment from those edges? (I appreciate this could be true of when you make any cut but I've seen advice that suggests treating all cut edges. This sounds like overkill but I'd imagine it would be helpful to have all bottom ends of the vertical studs to be factory treated)
Thanks for subscribing! much appreciated. No you don't need to treat the ends, the timber is pressure treated which means the treatment is throughout the timber.
Yes of course you should have a jar of wood preservative and a paintbrush and just dab some on the ends after you have tidy them up of course otherwise water will get in and your job will be ruined good point buddy
@@skutty5773 all the rooms are breathable condensation does not build up in them. Not a single builder in this world would treat the ends of timber for internal studwork. The only time you’d treat end grain is when you’re using the timber where it will be exposed to moisture such as decking, fencing or applications like those.
For the measuring out studwork at 24/25 minutes, after setting the first stud in dead centre, I'd probably get a block and cut it down to 355mm to create a gauge. What's your thoughts?? Also In your other video with the secret room, you build the side walls square then cut an infill to match the slope vs the setting the heights on the studs here. What do you feel is quicker?
The square wall is probably quicker as less calculating ect. But you can't beat a nice slope all measured out properly!! Could make a block. Problem with timer as some can be bent and twisted then the block wouldn't be bang on 🤷♂ I'll give it a go next time I'm building and see what i think 👍
Hi mate, quick question…I’m doing a 7metre roof, if I took off a few mms all the way down per stud, would the weight not push toward the back? Or is that a silly question?
Do you not need any noggins on the uprights? Amazing videos by the way, it puts me in a false sense of security as you make it look so simple 😆, I think I could do this 🤣
Both very similar just get what you can don't think too much into small details like that. C24 may have a slightly better appearance but none of it is exposed so either will do just fine 👍
Pen and paper haha It's quite easy, work out your perimeter size say the room is 4x4m then add all the walls together (4m+4m+4m+4m then take out what door size you have say 2m, this leaves 14m now do 14000mm divided by 400 and you get 35. That's how many 4x2 uprights you need for the walls ect, can work out all materials like this.👍
Excellent vid and really well explained. Thank you. I see the same methods used to build sheds and can't help but think that we're maybe over engineering them? My old (inherited) 12x8 shed has been up for at least 20 years and the uprights and rafters are 2"x1", set at 900 centers. Even the expensive online sheds, seem to only use 1.5" to 2" studs, instead of 2" x 4"s every 16". Anyway. Great video and nice job.
What is confusing me is every other video/company I watch frame, insulate and osb their floor before then creating the walls on top. You do the walls first. Why?
Hi, just put the base down for my build 5400×4000. I'm struggling to understand why it is an advantage to have the highest point of ground at the back of the building as mine is? The slab is 50mm of the ground at the back and 150mm at the front, as far as I understand it you can only go to a max of 2.5 high from the highest point wherever it is and since the slab is level it makes no difference if it is at the back unless the slab is dug in with some sort of tanking. I'd love an extra 100mm to play with. Thanks
Great video, and sorry if I'm being a moron but could you point me to the video where you explain cutting the windows into the side walls? I'm planning a side window myself so I'd be keen to see your process. Many thanks!
I'm building something very similar at the moment. I have run out of money for cladding so I was just going to leave the OSB board as the only outside wall and treat it with some kind of wood preservative, some insulation Rockwall on the inside and plasterboard. Would this be a recommended course of action?
Thanks great vids. Any recommendation on the 100mm base plate screws and washers. Also would you pop any silicone in whole as going through dpc or doesn’t matter?
No it’s very unlikely that will be a problem as we have a dpm underneath the concrete. The dpc is just an added security measure. Just some 6x100 screws will do and 20mm washers 👍
100mm screws with plugs and washers are plenty strong enough. They get so tight we snap a lot of screwdriver bits when fixing them with the impact gun.
You are working with imperial boards, which ply and osb are, you set your studs at 16 inch centres, instead of cutting 20mm of every sheet to suit 400mm centres, time is money pal😜
Thanks Stephen, good advice but unfortunately we have thought of that. Your way would be great but wrong for plasterboard. A full sheet of plasterboard wouldn’t make it to the last stud if we built the wall like that and then you’d have a lot of wasted materials!
What timber sizes do you use for walls and ceiling timbers? Going to get meself a 12x 14 footer knocked up this summer. Finding your videos really helpful! Cheers 🍻
@@creategardenrooms Great vid. Thx for uploading. Price of timber is shockin! Should I use treated C16 or is it false economy by buying untreated and non-structural timber?
@@creategardenrooms yeah I saw you’d replied on same question elsewhere… we have to make it fully of brick/ block/ cement sheets around here, even slate on the roof ☹️
![[Limbus Company - Teaser] Season5 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8anKuEeZLeI/mqdefault.jpg)
You explained everything brilliantly, mate. Excellent video!
Thank you very much for watching!
Great video.
Simple way to work out small angles, i.e. less than 10 degrees is the 1:60 rule. 1mm drop at 60mm = 1 degree. 10cm at 6 metres = 100mm at 6000mm = 1/60 = 1 degree. 5cm at 3.0m = 50/3000= 100/6000 =1/60 = 1 degree. So, 80mm drop over 4 metres = 80/4000 = 120/6000 (multiplied both sides by 1.5 to get a multiple of 60 on the right) =1.2/60 = 1.2 degrees. Seems complicated but look at it the other way around: What yo actually want is a 1 degree drop. So you want 1mm per 60mm. So just divide your length by 60 and and you’ve got your one degree drop. 4 metres = 4000 mm. 4000/60 = 66.7 mm drop for one degree or 133.3 mm for 2 degrees. Probably best to round it up to 70 or 80 and you’re in the ball park but slightly over your 1 degree. Once you’re practiced at it you’ll be able get the right drop for 1 degree in an instant in your head. 6.0 metres and you want a 1.5 degree drop, 150mm. 3 metres is obviously half of that: 75mm. 1 degree is 100 mm for 6 metres. Now isn’t it easy? 4 metres and you want a 1 degree slope. 4/6 (or 2/3) of 100mm = 67 mm, rounded as you like. 3 metres is 3/6 (or 1/2j of 100mm = 50 mm. 1 metre is 1/6 of 100 mm = 16.7 mm per metre. Your 20mm per metre is perfect at 1.2 degrees. The 1/60 rule used to be taught to every nautical/aeronautical pilot/navigator. For small angles it is incredibly accurate and easy. Fabulous video and great teaching style btw!
How it works for 3.5m width
studs 40 cm centers
great work. excellent
Great video, could you please let me know how to mitigate any damp as the sole plate screwed into the concrete breaks the DPC ?
Tiny hole won't be enough for damp issue
Excellent videos guys, thank you so much! Just a quick question and I know there are a lot of opinions out there.. do you normally use OSB 3 or 4 and what thickness do you use for the walls and roof?
11mm for walls 18mm for roof and floor. No idea what 3 and 4 differences are I suppose Google would be able to help 👍
this is a great video that is very informative, keep making them your subs will grow! it might be good to include a bit at the beginning with all the tools needed and people can order them using your affiliate code for a win/win
Thanks for the idea! Will get on it 👍
great collection of clips. I intend to build my own garden room. It will be quite close to a fence on one side. Any issues wrapping, battening and cladding this one side while horizontal, before fixing in place?
No issues at all 👍
Great,cheers. Appreciate your time to reply👍
Loving the videos, going to embark on a very similar 5.4x 4m build in the spring. Do you have a list of materials (quantities) for planning and budgeting purposes? Thanks
Tim
Hi. this is really clear. Thanks. I want to do something similar but am worried the timber along the bottom will rot as not able to breathe. Is that something I need to worry about and, if so, is there a way to prevent it?
Not going to Rot mate unless it’s underwater 👍
New subscriber here after coming across your part 3 video. Looking forward to watching your other videos.
Question from an amateur: once you've squared up the edges of your timber, doesn't that reduce/remove pressure treatment from those edges? (I appreciate this could be true of when you make any cut but I've seen advice that suggests treating all cut edges. This sounds like overkill but I'd imagine it would be helpful to have all bottom ends of the vertical studs to be factory treated)
Thanks for subscribing! much appreciated.
No you don't need to treat the ends, the timber is pressure treated which means the treatment is throughout the timber.
Yes of course you should have a jar of wood preservative and a paintbrush and just dab some on the ends after you have tidy them up of course otherwise water will get in and your job will be ruined good point buddy
@@skutty5773 How's water going to get in a sealed room with a roof?!!!
@@creategardenrooms you never heard of condensation? You're not much of A DIY buff then are you?
@@skutty5773 all the rooms are breathable condensation does not build up in them. Not a single builder in this world would treat the ends of timber for internal studwork. The only time you’d treat end grain is when you’re using the timber where it will be exposed to moisture such as decking, fencing or applications like those.
For the measuring out studwork at 24/25 minutes, after setting the first stud in dead centre, I'd probably get a block and cut it down to 355mm to create a gauge. What's your thoughts?? Also In your other video with the secret room, you build the side walls square then cut an infill to match the slope vs the setting the heights on the studs here. What do you feel is quicker?
The square wall is probably quicker as less calculating ect. But you can't beat a nice slope all measured out properly!! Could make a block. Problem with timer as some can be bent and twisted then the block wouldn't be bang on 🤷♂ I'll give it a go next time I'm building and see what i think 👍
Hi mate, quick question…I’m doing a 7metre roof, if I took off a few mms all the way down per stud, would the weight not push toward the back? Or is that a silly question?
No it wouldn’t 👍
Do you not need any noggins on the uprights? Amazing videos by the way, it puts me in a false sense of security as you make it look so simple 😆, I think I could do this 🤣
Not really, if it's been sheathed with OSB then they're never going anywhere. More thermal bridging also 😉
is 1 degree pitch suitable?
Have you made the concrete slab to the exact size of the building or is it slightly bigger?
Pretty much the same size, we build to the slab size we lay.
Are you using C16 or C24
Both very similar just get what you can don't think too much into small details like that. C24 may have a slightly better appearance but none of it is exposed so either will do just fine 👍
How do you calculate the materials required for the build without causing too much waste?
Pen and paper haha It's quite easy, work out your perimeter size say the room is 4x4m then add all the walls together (4m+4m+4m+4m then take out what door size you have say 2m, this leaves 14m now do 14000mm divided by 400 and you get 35. That's how many 4x2 uprights you need for the walls ect, can work out all materials like this.👍
Excellent vid and really well explained. Thank you.
I see the same methods used to build sheds and can't help but think that we're maybe over engineering them?
My old (inherited) 12x8 shed has been up for at least 20 years and the uprights and rafters are 2"x1", set at 900 centers.
Even the expensive online sheds, seem to only use 1.5" to 2" studs, instead of 2" x 4"s every 16".
Anyway. Great video and nice job.
Not insulating the floor?
All in good time Stephen, Floor will be shown in one of the parts later this week 👍👍
No worries, was just wondering if the slab was to be insulated 👍
What make is it
Stanley
What is confusing me is every other video/company I watch frame, insulate and osb their floor before then creating the walls on top. You do the walls first. Why?
Because they probably don’t build on concrete and have a timber frame to insulate 👍
To many have jumped on doing garden rooms.
That’s like saying too many have jumped on building houses 🤣🤣
@creategardenrooms I'm not knocking your work mate just saying seem to be alot doing these now on RUclips
@creategardenrooms, have you seen the state of new builds?! Absolutely shocking!
You don’t have to watch them!
@@cal401that’s not a bad thing for DIYers like me. Some are shite at explaining, at least these lads are good at that! Helps alot
Rubbish ,
Hi, just put the base down for my build 5400×4000. I'm struggling to understand why it is an advantage to have the highest point of ground at the back of the building as mine is? The slab is 50mm of the ground at the back and 150mm at the front, as far as I understand it you can only go to a max of 2.5 high from the highest point wherever it is and since the slab is level it makes no difference if it is at the back unless the slab is dug in with some sort of tanking. I'd love an extra 100mm to play with.
Thanks
What supplier do you tend to use for your Timber & OSB?
Jewsons, Gary
Great video, and sorry if I'm being a moron but could you point me to the video where you explain cutting the windows into the side walls? I'm planning a side window myself so I'd be keen to see your process. Many thanks!
I'm building something very similar at the moment. I have run out of money for cladding so I was just going to leave the OSB board as the only outside wall and treat it with some kind of wood preservative, some insulation Rockwall on the inside and plasterboard. Would this be a recommended course of action?
This guy did it and answers questions on the build.
ruclips.net/video/Xva5l3j-zhk/видео.html
That's 20metre square and your less than 1 metre to the boundary is that not an issue
No issue as cladded on unseen sides with steel sheets. Will have a video of that up shortly so make sure you subscribe 👍👍
@@creategardenrooms So does this have Building Reg's approval as it's built from timber?
@@creategardenrooms what is the cheapest cladding available and is it absolutely necessary? Could you not just treat the OSB board with preservative?
Thanks great vids. Any recommendation on the 100mm base plate screws and washers. Also would you pop any silicone in whole as going through dpc or doesn’t matter?
No it’s very unlikely that will be a problem as we have a dpm underneath the concrete. The dpc is just an added security measure. Just some 6x100 screws will do and 20mm washers 👍
"Quickly"had s strong hint
Would you consider Concrete screws to fix to the slab or are screws and plugs a cheaper option?
100mm screws with plugs and washers are plenty strong enough. They get so tight we snap a lot of screwdriver bits when fixing them with the impact gun.
Great video and James made a cameo too, great work
James please change your password code asap. The whole world knows it now
@@CRAZYCR1T1C what??? 🤣
You are working with imperial boards, which ply and osb are, you set your studs at 16 inch centres, instead of cutting 20mm of every sheet to suit 400mm centres, time is money pal😜
Thanks Stephen, good advice but unfortunately we have thought of that. Your way would be great but wrong for plasterboard. A full sheet of plasterboard wouldn’t make it to the last stud if we built the wall like that and then you’d have a lot of wasted materials!
@@creategardenrooms go on son you tell him
What timber sizes do you use for walls and ceiling timbers? Going to get meself a 12x 14 footer knocked up this summer. Finding your videos really helpful! Cheers 🍻
Thanks for the comment 👍 Using 4x2 for the whole build and then 5x2 for roof joists. 11mm osb for walls and 18mm t&g osb for roof.
@@creategardenrooms Great vid. Thx for uploading. Price of timber is shockin! Should I use treated C16 or is it false economy by buying untreated and non-structural timber?
Great work, great video, thank you for sharing and showing how it is done. Looking forward to the next episode.
Thanks Ian appreciate the comment
How are you building that close to the boundary with a roughly 20m2 outbuilding made of combustible material? 🤔🤔
Metal cladded bud 👍
@@creategardenrooms yeah I saw you’d replied on same question elsewhere… we have to make it fully of brick/ block/ cement sheets around here, even slate on the roof ☹️
What thickness osb are you using for the walls?
11mm 👍
Hi buddy.
Just wanted to ask you, is it OK to use 11mm osb board on roof? On top of 5x2 joint up. Thanks
Just use 18mm mate it’s stronger. The roof ties everything together so it’s important 👍
@@creategardenrooms thanks buddy
Ware did you get your tape measure from
Amazon 😎
For the Sides and back 4x2. Do you use CLS or C16?
Can get a way with cls mate but always nice to use treated stuff for longevity.
@@creategardenrooms Thank you!
Why don't you leave a 2-3mm expansion gap between the OSB sheathing?
Did this need planning permission?
What is the largest build allowed under permitted development if you have no boundary restrictions? i.e. on a large plot of land.
I think it's 30 square metres. But you better check
Its looking great!