Installing Electricity and Insulating a Garden Room - Workshop Build PT6
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- I am building a huge Garden Room Workshop and this time i will be showing you how i power the workshop, including armour cable installation and first fixing electrical circuits. I will also be showing you how i install Actis Hybris insulation and create a cold roof for my garden room. Plus plaster boarding and so much more all in this episode.
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Really coming along now! Next time…. Plastering, painting and second fixing electrics.
Can’t wait
I plan to change the carpet. Will you also show me how to change the carpet? I was changing the overhead lighting in the bathroom and I got lost. There I have three cable bundles with three cables each. I can't connect it properly. Sometimes I have light all the time or I have no light at all. I connected the Ceiling Rose cables in the room without any problems. This is what I did after watching your lecture. In the bathroom I gave up.
Can't believe an hour ago I typed in 'removing a radiator '... found this guys video, subscribed and now he's doing something I'm debating how to do 😅
Thanks for the sub 🤗
I built a salon in the garden for my wife a couple of years ago and used Actis Hybris with a cold roof. That stuff is absolutely awesome. The insulation properties are fantastic, it acts as a vapour barrier and you get a much more complete fit compared to PIR..... I didn't see you tape any joints with foil tape though?
You are one of the best on RUclips, helped us loads with all the work we have to do at our home. Thank you so much! (The garden room project is next)
Glad to help. Thanks a lot 😊
That's really positive, glad your home is coming to how you want it.
There are two things that I would have done differently, 1st the Noggins or struttings that were fitted midway along the ceiling joists should have been 50mm smaller to allow airflow to continue across the ceiling and 2nd I would have used foil backed plasterboard to be doubly sure no moisture got through into the ceiling and wall voids.
19:52 You're so fortunate that this is all nice and new.
I've had a hundred years of clag fall into me ears on older properties and even a marble in my eye!
That is one cracking looking outbuilding and professionally done from start to finish!
🙌 I think so too but I’m biased
Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience with us. You're making it easier for people to tackle ambitious projects with confidence. 🙌
That’s my goal! Thanks
I love how clear you are!
Brilliant, cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
@@TheDIYGuy1
Straight to the point
Condensed but clear
Had not idea about the insulation and ‘jigsaw bread knife 🤣’ that’s getting used
I also really like the quick fix down lights - saves so much time
Those plasterboard electric boxes are great, and now I know they exist I can get one for our hallway! Thanks, and that workshop is going to be awesome
Cheers bud. They are good!
They are only for stud walls
My favourite series of videos at the moment! Professional work as always! Looking forward to the next episode.
Thank you very much!
Love the content, keep up the good work. I know it's a workshop, but it might have been an idea to put in a few RJ45 connections with a dug in hardwire back to your router. Would have given a good link for an Access Point for wireless, and cable connection for a console/PC etc.
Hands down best RUclipsr !! Love watching your videos and am truly grateful for your easy to follow step by step videos. Dairyherd manager by trade but love doing diy in my spare time.
Hi man, guess what, I'm watching you at 37000 ft over the USA heading to Seattle. Still a great watch. Your videos are better than the in-flight movies.. cheers Shane
Haha thanks shane
This series of videos has been a great source of inspiration and help for the building I'm planning. I've just come from binge watching "Steve Roofer" however as I'll be doing a cold roof like yours (probably pent roof as can get up to 3m height as it will be well away from boundaries), I'm concerned about how exactly the airflow happens in the roof and behind the cladding? Obviously the air can convect up behind the cladding but it will end up in the roof cavity. As others have mentioned the full height noggings (or dwangs- I'm Scottish!) will prevent frontrear throughflow and I don't see any(did I miss something?) soffit or fascia ventilation to allow the moisture laden air to clear? Will the "up-over-down" airflow actually work? Also some form of ACVL might be advisable. Electrics and maintaining a non-compromised insulated roof is just a huge headache. I'd have been tempted to just add some battens to the underside and use a slightly lowered ceiling, the void being uninsulated shouldn't affect the wiring rating too. On the build I'm planning I may well just mount sockets and lights externally with conduit, ugly as it is it's practical! Oh- One last thing, I didn't see you install stainless steel insect mesh at the bottom of the cladding. If you haven't done this you really need to retrofit it. Trust me the wasps and flies will love the easy access, our poorly cladded house is testament to that, and yes they will nest behind cladding and ours isn't cross battened either so much narrower!!!
All in all though a very tidy job and has filled in a lot of missing bits for me as to how to sequence parts of the build!
What extension bit holder are you using in your impact driver looks just right and I need one in my life…..let be a in ya
You have a lot of very generous friends
Btw if you use one of those blades to cut PIR, it makes no mess aswell
I have got serious garden building envy 🤣 Looking absolutely fantastic, brilliant!
Thanks! 😀
Learning so much from this series. Thanks so much. Really hoping you can show the next step and installing the consumer unit. That's the point I've got to with by garden room. Will be amazing to finally have power down there without running an extension lead! 🤣
Glad you like it. Hoping to bring you some consumer unit content 😊
Unless you're a sparks, get an electrician to do it. You'll need the certification to comply with the law which will have to cover the work he's done as well as signing off whatever you've done, such as running the armoured cable from the domestic supply to your shed.
Apart from anything else, being anywhere near a consumer unit/fuse box busbar can be life changing...
@JP_TaVeryMuch thanks. Whilst im not certified myself I do have avery good friend who always checks my work, tests it thoroughly, helps me make any corrections, then signs it off after he is happy tonput his name to it. Appreciate your comments and concern, but I am that person.
@@MrGuardcaptain
Good on ya and thanks for your thanks.
@@JP_TaVeryMuch there is actually the possibility of notifying building control before and they will just send someone out or an approved contractor to safety check it but they can’t issue the paperwork as they were not involved in the design
Thanks for helping me do this now I can complete my shed
Edit this was uploaded on my birthday
👍
If you were building a garden room for use as a bedroom or tiny home, would you tape the joints between the insulation and would you have to fit a vapour barrier between the insulation and plasterboard. Also do the plastic boxes for sockets be used if you were using cladding or plywood instead of plasterboard. Brilliant video and very interesting. Hope all is well and hope you have a great weekend, take care
Actis insulation had a vapour control layer. Thanks
@@TheDIYGuy1 lol not at the cut gaps or untapped
Joints . Oops 😬
id buy one of those plaster board lifters! thats fantastic DIY xD
Loving this series. Keep the vids coming 👍
Thanks, will do!
It's an impressive build, you've made it an easy build to follow 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Great video thanks very much for sharing it’s all very useful and appreciated - the only question I have is how you achieve the airflow when your noggins extend all the way to the decking?
Drill holes 👍
This video is perfectly timed as these are the next tasks on my self build home office. Thx
👍
Love it,please do a wrap up at the end how much it costed :) we did mates garden room 35m2 for 25k including kitchen and a bathroom.
👌👍👍👍
Thanks and will do 😊
Quiet interesting, waiting for finishing look🤓🤓🤓. 👏👏👏
You have inspired me to build another garden room using similar cladding and construction method as you have. I intend making a timber base frame and possibly installing a log burner. I would love you to do video on installing log burner in a garden room. One question -- your room is greater than 15 SQ m and within 1 m of boundary. I see you have non combustible material on back but when I check regs it says substantially built of non combustible materials.
Great building mate you will have a great work space in there 👍
Thanks 👍
MAke it look easy as usual mate 👍
Thanks 👍
Great video and series and will be a great comfortable workshop to work in. Looking forward to your next video Cheers
Thanks a lot 🙏
Loving this build. Is the next video available? Looks like this is the last one in the playlist.
Very very soon the next one drops
great video. did I miss the bit about sealing the insulation sheets where they meet a the edges? or simply not needed with this type?
Great video and as I’m building my own can I ask why your not using a plastic membrane as used with Pir. Both your method and Pir have a foil on them.
Looking good. How did you insulate above the downlighters?
Please make a video on how to read building plans or best place to learn them
Thanks for a great series that has helped me with my build. Just one question - how come you have not added any noggins to the uprights in the walls?
Your welcome. No need when using structural osb, you’ll get no twist.
Another great video. Can't wait for the next one 👍
Great video again you always explain everything really well
Thanks 😊🙌
I have moved into a house that has a Shed/Lean To attached to the garage which is used as a Laundry room with Washer and Dryer in. Would this method work for that? I really want to tart it up and make it look nice as now it is basically a wooden shed and brick walls!
I’d love to work with you - your the man 👍👍👍
What did you use to join the 10mm armoured to the 10mm twin and earth inside
Workshop is coming on nicely. Do the noggins block the air door for the cold roof to ventilate?
Cheers. Nope 👍
Doesn't there need to be a void around the downlight so the insulation doesn't overheat the light? also, would it not push the insulation to the OSB?
What is the armoured cable supplied from at the consumer unit in the house? B40 MCB?
Problem you have is the noggins will stop air flow. You could have a gap above them that dosnt show on camera though. Also it looks like you didn’t put a vapour barrier on the warm side so any source of moisture inside will go through the plasterboard into the insulation. That looks like it’s got a degree of vapour retardation but if you have gaps then the vapour will get through behind the insulation and condense.
However it’s a garden room so your unlikely to have a high source of humidity so you’re unlikely to get a problem. If you are running a shower in there or it was a habitable space then it would be a bit more of an issue.
Actis hybris has a vapour control layer. There is still ample airflow. Never had any issues with my method in the past so will continue with what’s tried and tested. Thanks
Looks like noggins would stop airflow? Good video
Great video!
Quick question on the roof gap - while i understand your drawing and intended flow of air, how will the air current pass through the roof space when there’s noggins in place?
Easy, drill holes within the top 50mm of the noggin. Thanks
Hi Does the noggins in the roof stop the airflow?
Brilliant job 👏🏻👏🏻
Big thanks as always!
Do I need fire rated down lights with that insulation? Can you like the name of the lights please.
Also is that the best insulation to use in my garage roof, just boarding as turning into a gym? I have a large space above, the garage is a triangle roof.
very good work !
Thank you! Cheers!
Ive got to do the same.. thanks for the detailed vid
Superb tutorial
Awesome video as always.
Thanks again!
I'm paying you'll be making windows. I need to know how to replace my barna windows so want to make then. Think they are mortise and tenon joints. Great channel btw
Would there be any reason to insulate the roof's overhang (on the outside of the walls) or only use the Actis Hybris to insulate roof space within the inside of the build. I have a 500mm overhang on the front of my flat roof. Thanks!
In regards of your cold roof and your ventilation space, you had a solid blocking running end to end thus blocking your continuous ventilation, did you drill holes in your blocking but just never showed it?
I wondered that too.
Ditto, the noggins were full width…. They could have been put in at 90 degrees to prevent twisting but permit airflow.
I spotted this and only Gona get vented flow front to back and then noggins don’t apear to have a gap . And not vapour barrier in the roof … not even foil tape … I for see a. Wet roof in few years ! I know as I had this from my workshop ! Had to do some work to fix it . Thanks builders of it
@@jammymukka could have just been 100x50
Absolutely loving this series, I'm making lots of notes for our upcoming build!
Is this insulation just as good as the PIR boards then? was planning to use boards but you may have converted me!
Glad your enjoying it! In my opinion…. Yes
Nice work. Just started watching your channel. Learning loads.
I also have a question, Is there an alternative way to get power to a summer house as our fuse board is at the front of the house with no side access as both neighbours are joint on to our house?
If you can help it would be much appreciated.
There’s always a way but it would need proper surveying. Thanks
You can get things like 16 and 32 amp commando sockets so technically speaking you could have a cable that would let it plug-in so you could disconnect it or something like solar potentially
Out of curiosity. Are you going to install solar on the shed? It looks like your would get really good generation on that. Paired with a hybrid inverter and battery you hopefully should be able greatly reduce your grid use.
Interesting. Not something I’d really considered
@@TheDIYGuy1 It might be worth taking a quick look (without committing to anything).
Without a battery hopefully you can export enough energy to make a credit balance for your winter use so over the whole year it reduces your costs.
With a battery you can also charge it over night in the winter / late autumn with cheap rate energy at night to use during the day. So, for example pay something like 14p/kWh instead of 24p/kWh.
That said, obviously everyone has different energy requirements so whether it is worth it for you would require a bit of investigation on your part.
@@TheDIYGuy1 one thing to consider is it’s quite a high upfront cost but there are budget ways of doing it which are DIY if you do it correctly it’s still recommended to have it inspected but you could do it yourself
Run a network cable underground to feed the garden room! Wifi from the house won’t get through the insulation.
Ahmed network cable is sometimes even more costly under power cable
Looks great, probs more insulated than my home. Quick question: How will your ceiling ventilate pass the ceiling noggins? Would that not be a blocker stop the air flowing from front to back.
Was going to ask the same thing. Have seen some where the noggin was a 4x2 so there was a gap above, also seen where they drilled 3 holes in the noggin to create the same.
Don’t the noggins in the roof space restrict the air flow for the cold roof?
No, fine in my experience. Total airflow all around the insulation so no chance of any condensation issues.
Ventilation in a cold roof construction requires a continuous airflow. The noggins in this cold roof construction are preventing this. This issue could be easily resolved by providing a series of 25mm diameter holes in the top section of the noggins
I think you should do a video on how to install a split heat pump.
I'd love to do a little room like this but I'd end up wanting it to be completely soundproof (so adding MLV and a staggered double stud wall and a second drop ceiling probably)
and well, I live on a maisonette and don't own the garden. :p
I've made the loft my little cave instead haha. Boarded, put spare carpet on top, and foiled the pitch. (But can't put all that soundproofing weight on to it:( )
Sounds good 👍
Fantastic info, as always. I'm currently building my own garden office and just about to put PIR insulation boards into my walls. A friend (experienced DYIer I guess) said I need to have a gap between the board and external OSB for ventilation. Please could someone confirm / correct that, as I've not seen anyone suggest similar? I followed the standard construction with C24 treated 4x2, OSB on the outside and EPDM membrane. Planning to put the 75mm PIR boards all the way in to touch the OSB, fill in gaps with expanding foam, leaving circa 20mm gap between PIR and plasterboard (wiring will go there). Does that sound right? Also, would anyone bother with a vapour barrier before plasterboard, if I have no plumbing, unlikely to have a kettle in there. I will do some exercise, but will then make sure the room is ventilated. Thanks in advance.
Don’t the noggins you put in the roof stop the airflow front to back like you showed in the drawing? Great build btw
Not with some holes drilled in they don’t 😉
Great video mate just a quick question were did you get you insulation from please was it the main site thanks 🤔😎
Hi! Thanks for such a great video; really helpful! I was planning to use 50mm actis hybris with an air gap to 30mm insulated plasterboard. Is that totally overkill?
Sometimes overkill is great. It’s a matter of cost versus performance.
Enjoyed that. Great vid 👍🏻🎉🎉
Glad you enjoyed it
What's a Conshooomer unit ? ... 🤣 Great video matey !
Hah cheers
It's what goes in after the inshoolation!
@@jayseabie215 I was going to mention that .... 🤣
How else does one pronounce consumer? Or insulation?
Great video mate, its given me some ideas now on how to make a garage a car port and make the other half to the garden like a workshop/summer room.
That insulation, is that better than celotex then to run cables in? As I thought the Celotex stuff really effects loads right. Is this much safer then?
Glad you liked it and have taken some inspiration from it.
You failed to realise the electrical system is safe in seller tax because the cable rating is done appropriately
I live in Ireland and saw your video and have a shed I need to insult. What is the insulation called that you use and where can I get it as I can't find it online here in Ireland? Thanks
How did you run the external cable into the workshop? Did you leave a hole when you built it?
Will be covered in the next episode when we terminate it to second fix
Again, fantastic video, thanks. Not sure if I missed it, but are the roof noggins meant to be lower than the rafters to ensure that airflow? I can't quite see in the video. Say I have 5x2 rafters, I assumed for cold roof I use 4x2 noggins (which is what I've done) and will have 75mm PIR boards at the bottom of the rafters. Is that right?
Could do but I just drilled some holes 👍
I see, thanks for confirming
@@TheDIYGuy1 Not gonna repeat everyone else's question about noggins and airflow🤣, but putting in an extract fan (with humidistat) or cheap mvhr could help keep the moisture levels down if needed. (Another great video by the way 👍👍)
Really enjoyed this video and the variety of jobs, I myself am currently doing a cold roof at my house and was unsure of the insulation to use, but now I’ll look into the one you used so thanks for that, I also brought quickwire down lights because of your previous videos with them, one question I have please.. with the insulation being pretty much on top of the plasterboard ceiling, when doing the down lights.. did you just leave a gap in the insulation where they are going? Or cut the insulation out where they are going? I assume you can’t just push the insulation up where the lights are as you risk closing up the air gap above for ventilation? Many thanks, Phil
Why not start the plasterboard for wall in corner
4:32 why didn't you use your dust collector then like you did later for the plaster board?
Just didn’t have it with me on the day I filmed that bit.
What about cold bridgeing
amazing build, are noggins not needed in the walls due to the sheathing out of interest?
Nope, not needed in my experience when using OSB in this way 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 amazing, thanks for the reply
you're a beast great job
Question how can air flow over the roof if there is a nogging in the way?
Drill a few holes it the top 50mm 👍
Where is the link to quick wire
Won't the noggins affect that ventilation?
No just drill some holes in
them
Not throwing shade is just a question as I’m building my own garden room and I’m at a similar stage to this video- does that insulation you used work as a vapour barrier?
Great video by the way
Thanks. Yes actis hybris has a vapour control layer 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 seems pretty good, I might give it a try, thanks
Is 10mm cable enough for that run with a heater etc, I been advised to go for 16mm on a 25m run
It’s enough. Volt drop has been taken into account.
You really need to buy the on-site guide. You need to look at the tables that tell you the current calculations.
Hi, I built a similar one 12 years ago clad with red cedar and it cost me £6000 . I would love to know how much this one has cost you as tempet to build another in our new house,
Hi. Material costs have gone up so much in that time. This fully finished is around 11-12k
I assume u r fitting metal consumer unit? Why dont you just bring the SWA straight into condumer unit? Saves on termination. Less joints less trouble
Isn't your row of noggins going to block the flow of air from one side of building to the other?
Nope the noggins don’t matter as long as there’s ventilation for each area across the top of the insulation
New sup, very enjoyable.
Would think you’d need to continue the 10mm2 cpc from the swa rather than downsizing it by using 10mm T&E which only has 4mm cpc
Good video but you seemed to gloss over the burial of the 10mm SWA, it would have been nice to see things like burial depth etc
It will be on the on-site guide for the electrical regulations
👍👍👍. Thank you
Thank you too
But your roof dose not have a air flow from the walls, because your noggins block the 50mm roof space in the middle.(you can see this in the video).
Yeah, it does because the noggins don’t block the air flow.
Don’t the noggins in the roof stop the whole flow of air?
Just drill a bunch of holes in them and all good
How tall is your electrician 😅 Thanks for the insulation suggestion, Was about to order PIR for my workshop build but I'll do a little more research
👍 worth some research. I know, that’s why he works fast as he has no need for a ladder 😂
you don't have continuous airflow above roof insulation, your cold roof won't work. noggins are all they way up to the roof deck, noggins should be minimum 50mm shorter then then roof joists and installed the way that here is a gap above them for the airflow.
When can we expect part 7 please?
In a couple of weeks 😊