I brought the Chinese version of Festool lever clamps and adapted them to use with Matchfit System. For what I paid (£20 for a pair) if I owned a track saw I'd leave those clamps as they were.
I was also pleasantly surprised to see the microjig clamps (22.50 each) also held down my track. I had just bought 6 of these clamps and the bits as table saw fence clamps, but have since made many nice jigs out of them already. a great portable clamping option.
You can also cut the dovetails in some scrap, screw it upside down under your bench top and use it to hold both your dovetail and rail clamps at the bench.
Interesting point Philip. I was wondering how but then realised multiple dovetail slots in the piece of scrap as a clamp storage option. Is that right?
Interesting point Teun de Haas. There is still a flat section on the clamp to hold the T track well. One of the reasons I said to remove a little bit at a time so you don't remove the flat seating area.
a) is easy: T-Slot cutter (here in Germany), but the difference is marginal. Doesn't count anyway... b) is easy too, but more to write: A T-Slot - cutted in wood - is always weaker than a D-Slot with the same depth. You have to cut much more !stabilizing! material of the board. So you have to go much deeper with a T-Slot to hold the clamping-pressure. Of course, this does not count for a 30 mm oak or beech countertop, but it does for 3/4 inch plywood.
Up to now I had no problem with T-Slots in 18mm Baltic birch plywood. But the main problem is that you can't clamp a T-SLOT with a D-Clamp properly, so the modified clamp is not multi purpose for both kind of slots. In the worst case you are bending the T-Slot sideways and deformate your rail guide, and if you file the clamp too small, you will have no clamping force at all. In best case the clamp is touching just the inner edges of the T-Slot, but the resulting pressure to fix the rail guide is much lesser than it was before. I'm not quite sure if it's just worth It and you are saving money by the risk of ruining your track saw rail guide.
I don't at present, need to find a genuine business that can take orders, payments and a monitoring system that I can follow. But, I do have the 3d print files for sale on my etsy site. www.etsy.com/au/shop/DavidStantonStudio
Wow I am just about to cut this in my work table, perfect timing!!
Perfect!
I filed my Bessey clamps to fit my matchfit dovetails last week. Works great.
Isn't it a great idea!
Do matchfits work in festool guide rails or in 20 mm mft tops ?
I brought the Chinese version of Festool lever clamps and adapted them to use with Matchfit System. For what I paid (£20 for a pair) if I owned a track saw I'd leave those clamps as they were.
I was also pleasantly surprised to see the microjig clamps (22.50 each) also held down my track. I had just bought 6 of these clamps and the bits as table saw fence clamps, but have since made many nice jigs out of them already. a great portable clamping option.
Not a good idea to use those in thr guide rails as the flat purchase area of the track wil slowly spread.
@@DavidStanton i agree, it was more of a one-time emergency situation where my other clamps were not available.
You can also cut the dovetails in some scrap, screw it upside down under your bench top and use it to hold both your dovetail and rail clamps at the bench.
Interesting point Philip. I was wondering how but then realised multiple dovetail slots in the piece of scrap as a clamp storage option. Is that right?
What a brillant idea ! How to turn Festool into Microjig :D
It does the job for me OPPO A31
Awesome work around 💯
Thank you! Cheers!
axminister do a router bit so you cut T-slot groove. SKU 101972. Therefore don't have to muck up your guide rail clamps
Doesn't muck the clamps up at all and you save the cost of a router cutter that is a one trick pony.
Awesome idea David
Thanks for the compliment Franks DIY!
But… how’s the fit in the Festool rail afterwards, and doesn’t it bend the rails t-track due to the wedge shape?
Interesting point Teun de Haas. There is still a flat section on the clamp to hold the T track well. One of the reasons I said to remove a little bit at a time so you don't remove the flat seating area.
What is more expensive: A T-Slot cutter or a dove tail cutter? And which one of the two has more holding purchase?
a) is easy:
T-Slot cutter (here in Germany), but the difference is marginal. Doesn't count anyway...
b) is easy too, but more to write:
A T-Slot - cutted in wood - is always weaker than a D-Slot with the same depth. You have to cut much more !stabilizing! material of the board. So you have to go much deeper with a T-Slot to hold the clamping-pressure. Of course, this does not count for a 30 mm oak or beech countertop, but it does for 3/4 inch plywood.
Up to now I had no problem with T-Slots in 18mm Baltic birch plywood. But the main problem is that you can't clamp a T-SLOT with a D-Clamp properly, so the modified clamp is not multi purpose for both kind of slots. In the worst case you are bending the T-Slot sideways and deformate your rail guide, and if you file the clamp too small, you will have no clamping force at all. In best case the clamp is touching just the inner edges of the T-Slot, but the resulting pressure to fix the rail guide is much lesser than it was before. I'm not quite sure if it's just worth It and you are saving money by the risk of ruining your track saw rail guide.
Specilista! guate idee
Thanks for the compliment 99octan!
Dave any plans to sell dog locks in Europe?
I don't at present, need to find a genuine business that can take orders, payments and a monitoring system that I can follow. But, I do have the 3d print files for sale on my etsy site. www.etsy.com/au/shop/DavidStantonStudio
Filing that looks so cumbersom