He's such a wonderful cat. He's a favorite of ours, a well-mannered, handsome, and amusing fellow. We check in for Messi most mornings. Have a great D-day, the four of you: Sasha, Masha, cat boy Messi, and miss Gerda.
when your dialing in your rectangular stock if you put a center in while its in the mill you can use a dead center in the lathe to quickly dial it in in the 4 jaw same with when you flipped it you already had a hole through the center so you could do the same again. Another thing to remember when drilling a internal counter-bore for a screw to chamfer the shoulder as screws don't have a sharp transition from thread to head there will be a minor radius that will stop the screw from sitting square on the internal step. Great vid James
Just came from BlondiHacks' video where she mentioned that very detail about counterboring a threaded hole to ensure the screw head seats without a gap.
I just installed a magnetic quill scale and serial 'summing' box to the existing Z-axis encoder my Bridgeport (both parts from MachineDRO here in the UK) and I wish I'd done it earlier, it makes the thing so much better to use! I confess it didn't really occur to me to re-make the quill stop to add the read-head mounting holes so I just created a bracket with an expanding internal portion that picks up on the Quill-stop mounting screw access hole, it works fine but your solution is way more elegent - I may have to steal the idea! Looking forward to seeing how you mount the scale without drilling holes, my solution has a machined part to carry the mag strip and 3 x M4 holes to mount it. The most fiddly bit was deciding how to provide strain relief and route the read-head cable such that it didn't catch on the sundry controls and other protuberances on the Bridgeport J head over the full quill travel - that led to a 4th hole for a cable P-clip but it all works fine and also leaves all the previous functionality intact. Yes, chemical 'blacking' is well worth it, especially for tooling! Rather than machine oil, I simply immerse the parts in WD40 for 30 minutes or so after treatment and that seems to work well, good appearance and no rust after a year or so in my unheated barn.
Oxpho-Blue is great for small parts, even though it is pricy. However, you committed the Cardinal Sin of re-dunking into the bottle: unless you are going to use the bottle up in the next week or so contamination from the re-dunk will reduce the efficacy of what's left. Regardless (or "irregardless" as most of the folks around here say), another great video, James!
Noooooo! Not a cliff-hanger! Now I will have to subscribe ..Uh, already did that years ago. Thanks, now I will not be able to sleep till the next episode.
28:44 ...was about time. congrats in advance. 32:03 hahahaha i knew it was coming. i usually hate it when they make you wait for another video, when it could be shown in 5 more minutes.... but when the execution is this flawless, im all in.
I did this exact project a couple of weeks ago! My mill is a standard desktop mill more like your CNC'd one though, and the depth stop was both sloppy and rode inside the head, behind a faceplate. I ended up making a new rod to replace the depth stop threaded rod, and then made a piece that fit over the rod with set screws and poked out through the front of the depth stop slot in the faceplate to give me a mounting surface for the read head. Then I fixed the scale to a piece of flat bar on top of the face plate. I could not find many examples of this approach at all and I don't know why. I feel like a quill DRO on a mill is a very useful thing.
Boy, that was a lot of work. For my quill DRO I made an expanding plug that fits the hole in the original stop, and that holds the read head. No disassembly required. I'll be interested in part 2. Maybe then your method will make more sense.
Yes, if anybody's personality is screaming for a surface grinder, it's yours. ;-) You are the kind of guy I'd love to buy used equipment from. Only problem is, it probably costs twice as much after you have owned it.
You're ballsier than I am on that rectangular part interrupted cut, I'd have roughly scribed the circle on the part and roughed it out etch-a-sketch style on the mill first, and then gone to the lathe....or just interpolated it on your CNC mill 😉
Nothing wrong with mixing Imp and Metric, in the home shop, as it shows a pragmatic approach. In industry it might confuse. With the boring bar, if you allow the quill to retract slowly, at normsl cutting rate, it is the equivalent of a spring cut and often gives a better finish as a bonus. Good advice to always work to a fine tolerance, even when not needed, to keep in practice for when it is.
Hey! Dull Beavers are difficult to handle. Just try clamping one in your tool holder. So yeah, that gives some tolerances on the part. Don't judge. We're working with what we got and trying our best.
Nice video James. "If I had a surface grinder" I had one at my disposal when I was still working. I would have one in my home shop if I had the floor space. There is so much more you can do with one beside grinding plates flat. You should have one, you deserve it.
Any chance you could show the DRO in the corner of the screen as you are working your machines? It would give us more info as you are making adjustments.
Dropping small parts on the floor (or even worse, in the chip tray) is NOT optional. Mother Nature insists on it. Since you really wanted those two flats to run smoothly, I'm a little surprised you didn't finish with a very light climb cut. But you got a great-looking finish, so I guess your setup is better than mine usually turn out to be.
Your home shop is much better equipped than the tool room where I work! 😫 The guy who was the go-to person for manual turning and milling did NOT look after the place. Bits and pieces _everywhere_ . Nothing had a 'place', except for the machines obviously. Drawers were/are just places where things went to die. Like end mills just rolling around, blunting and being blunted by other end mills and chunks of random material.
not to nitpick, but whenever i'm on a mill and squaring up stock I usually use a larger face mill or fly cutter mill to optimize surface finish. Even though there is no wrong in using a smaller end mill to face & true up stock, I often get skittish in doing so. Worried that somehow a part of the stock isn't completely flat in my vice, or my hand might of accidently bumped the knee by accident and won't know it till half way in. Or I don't wish to have a final helical pattern mirror finish on the face. Which is therefore why I prefer a larger face mill, or a fly cutter sized to such, but sometimes you don't have that luxury and you have to work with, with what you got.
Nice work as usual James, and great video. While at it, you should has opted to install a Morton Quill Stop (the one with the button 1213-S), I really like mine, much faster setting than using the original.
Very nice. I've been told not to put the swab (or brush) back in the container, since it will contaminate it. So you're supposed to put a small quantity in a tiny cup and brush it on from there. Your take? Also I like the subscription reminder. Unfortunately I cannot do so again.
I think the dull beaver was a little poorly. I'm just a little envious of your mill now. Great stuff. [Edit] Oh, and I think I actually gasped at the interrupted cut finish. Especially going so heavy on a small lathe.
I was very pleased. 1018 is notorious for a dull, chewy finish. It got a little into that territory with the fine cuts at the end, but it's still great.
@@Clough42 I had machined one of the quill stop threaded rods out of hardened threaded rod to 1/2-20 on a Sharp mill to install the educated nut. The original was a coarse thread .No one offered an educated nut in that thread. Decent lathe project. For you.
I had completely forgot the purpose of the part until the end of the video, I was just here for the ride on a nicely made part. Also wife asked me what I wanted for christmas, where did you get your NSK die filer from?
That part looks great! I assume you are mounting the read head to it? I would be a little bit worried, that the force of pushing the quill trip could misalign the read head 🤔. (testing the upper trip looked like it took quite bit of force to do so)
Beautiful work. I'll have to pick up some bluing solution sometime because it leaves such a nice finish! How are you liking the 690X vises? I'm getting close to buying one, just wondering if they have any issues
Links are in the video description. The burrs are just about the cheapest imports available. I've tried expensive ones, too, and found very little difference: NSK Emax Evolution Standard with Lever Handpiece (eBay*): ebay.us/IqNh4t Carbide Burr Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3DI15Fp
I'm restoring a few machines and I would like to paint them white. I've seen a few brands that come in white from factory. I call it the Amscope white. Looks just like the white of this milling machine. Does anyone know if there's a specific name for that color/finish or even a known brand with color code? TIA
I'm glad you have done this video James as I have a touch dro to fit to my Bridgeport. One suggestion to make life easier next time, whilst you have the block in the mill, centre find the face containing the boss and centre drill it. Now when you put it in the lathe, you can use the fixed centre between the centre drilling and the tailstock to clock it in. The same methodology goes for the through bore as it's always easier to bore on the lathe where possible.
Not sure what the chemical is in your bluing solution, but selenium dioxide can be used for detecting latent fingermarks because it won't blue the metal where the oils in the fingermark are.
I purchased (paid) , well let's say I ordered the tool post from Peter. It will be a month this Friday. Just curious how long it took you to get your tool post.
James, bought a PM power Y feed for my 1957 BP. They said good for BP's and clones. That's not true as clones are metric and the BP Imperial. After the third one shipped proved itself a runner we got into converting the metric bolt circles, and hardware to be compatible with the BP. I keep the machine all Imperial, can't see the old girl being bi...
It's easier to work on small parts using a small lathe. The cost comparison of a "crappy little lathe" to a "not crappy little lathe" is fairly negligible as there doesn't seem to be a "fantastic little lathe" on the market. So even the "not crappy" lathes need a bit of work to dial them in correctly. Since he's put so much effort into the one he has already then it makes economic sense to stick with it. At least, until a fantastic little lathe comes out....
@@HelenaOfDetroit I've had nearly every size of lathe there is...7 by 12, 9 by 20, a c4 9by 20 .....now I have a 2 horse 12 by 36......and access to a 17 by 60 5 horse......2 horse is really small enough for small parts....I would never buy a 1 horse lathe any more......by the way...C4 is a great little lathe if you're in the kitchen!
It's also a matter of shop space. But you're right; this lathe is a great little lathe now. If I were to buy (and find the space for) an HLV-H, I would miss the ELS.
By coincidence, I'm just considering how to fit a glass scale to the quill of my Bridgeport so I'll be watching closely. Good on you for using metric threads! Bravo.
He's such a wonderful cat. He's a favorite of ours, a well-mannered, handsome, and amusing fellow. We check in for Messi most mornings. Have a great D-day, the four of you: Sasha, Masha, cat boy Messi, and miss Gerda.
"Where I live, things don't rust", you gotta love the Mountain West. Makes machine shop life so much easier.
I live in Seattle. 😢
when your dialing in your rectangular stock if you put a center in while its in the mill you can use a dead center in the lathe to quickly dial it in in the 4 jaw same with when you flipped it you already had a hole through the center so you could do the same again. Another thing to remember when drilling a internal counter-bore for a screw to chamfer the shoulder as screws don't have a sharp transition from thread to head there will be a minor radius that will stop the screw from sitting square on the internal step. Great vid James
Just came from BlondiHacks' video where she mentioned that very detail about counterboring a threaded hole to ensure the screw head seats without a gap.
@@JBLewis Darn cheap screws have who-knows-what in the corner of the head and threads.
I just installed a magnetic quill scale and serial 'summing' box to the existing Z-axis encoder my Bridgeport (both parts from MachineDRO here in the UK) and I wish I'd done it earlier, it makes the thing so much better to use!
I confess it didn't really occur to me to re-make the quill stop to add the read-head mounting holes so I just created a bracket with an expanding internal portion that picks up on the Quill-stop mounting screw access hole, it works fine but your solution is way more elegent - I may have to steal the idea!
Looking forward to seeing how you mount the scale without drilling holes, my solution has a machined part to carry the mag strip and 3 x M4 holes to mount it. The most fiddly bit was deciding how to provide strain relief and route the read-head cable such that it didn't catch on the sundry controls and other protuberances on the Bridgeport J head over the full quill travel - that led to a 4th hole for a cable P-clip but it all works fine and also leaves all the previous functionality intact.
Yes, chemical 'blacking' is well worth it, especially for tooling! Rather than machine oil, I simply immerse the parts in WD40 for 30 minutes or so after treatment and that seems to work well, good appearance and no rust after a year or so in my unheated barn.
Sunday morning with James is life-affirming workshop time! Thanks for sharing!
One more upgrade to consider for the future. Graduated Quick Nut.
Love your content! Keep it up
Oxpho-Blue is great for small parts, even though it is pricy. However, you committed the Cardinal Sin of re-dunking into the bottle: unless you are going to use the bottle up in the next week or so contamination from the re-dunk will reduce the efficacy of what's left.
Regardless (or "irregardless" as most of the folks around here say), another great video, James!
Great job. I will be back for the next step. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Noooooo! Not a cliff-hanger! Now I will have to subscribe ..Uh, already did that years ago. Thanks, now I will not be able to sleep till the next episode.
It does look nice blued. Plus side, it will just look nice forever now...
28:44 ...was about time. congrats in advance.
32:03 hahahaha i knew it was coming. i usually hate it when they make you wait for another video, when it could be shown in 5 more minutes.... but when the execution is this flawless, im all in.
Nice job !!
This Old Tony needs to see the cold bluing.
I did this exact project a couple of weeks ago! My mill is a standard desktop mill more like your CNC'd one though, and the depth stop was both sloppy and rode inside the head, behind a faceplate. I ended up making a new rod to replace the depth stop threaded rod, and then made a piece that fit over the rod with set screws and poked out through the front of the depth stop slot in the faceplate to give me a mounting surface for the read head. Then I fixed the scale to a piece of flat bar on top of the face plate. I could not find many examples of this approach at all and I don't know why. I feel like a quill DRO on a mill is a very useful thing.
Nice job with the mirror. Haven't seen anyone else do that.
Boy, that was a lot of work. For my quill DRO I made an expanding plug that fits the hole in the original stop, and that holds the read head. No disassembly required. I'll be interested in part 2. Maybe then your method will make more sense.
28:42 - Dunh dunh dunhhhhhhhhhhhh. :)
Cool! Looking forward to what all you end up doing with that! I bet you'll have all sorts of fun. :)
Well done James, turned out awesome !!
Yes, if anybody's personality is screaming for a surface grinder, it's yours. ;-) You are the kind of guy I'd love to buy used equipment from. Only problem is, it probably costs twice as much after you have owned it.
You're ballsier than I am on that rectangular part interrupted cut, I'd have roughly scribed the circle on the part and roughed it out etch-a-sketch style on the mill first, and then gone to the lathe....or just interpolated it on your CNC mill 😉
Nothing wrong with mixing Imp and Metric, in the home shop, as it shows a pragmatic approach. In industry it might confuse.
With the boring bar, if you allow the quill to retract slowly, at normsl cutting rate, it is the equivalent of a spring cut and often gives a better finish as a bonus.
Good advice to always work to a fine tolerance, even when not needed, to keep in practice for when it is.
Good stuff
Hey! Dull Beavers are difficult to handle. Just try clamping one in your tool holder. So yeah, that gives some tolerances on the part. Don't judge. We're working with what we got and trying our best.
nice,Love your channel!
Nice video James. "If I had a surface grinder" I had one at my disposal when I was still working. I would have one in my home shop if I had the floor space. There is so much more you can do with one beside grinding plates flat. You should have one, you deserve it.
Note that holes made through an entire part for ancillary reasons are known as “speed holes”
Great job James!!!!!
I just got my grizzly lathe g0750g what a great machine
Good job James. I really like Brownells Oxpho-Blue and use it quite a bit.
James what was the digital gage you were using to measure the I/D?
Any chance you could show the DRO in the corner of the screen as you are working your machines? It would give us more info as you are making adjustments.
Concur.
Dropping small parts on the floor (or even worse, in the chip tray) is NOT optional. Mother Nature insists on it.
Since you really wanted those two flats to run smoothly, I'm a little surprised you didn't finish with a very light climb cut. But you got a great-looking finish, so I guess your setup is better than mine usually turn out to be.
Oxpho Blue is one of the best cold blues I’ve ever used. I blue all my steel parts with it.Good job on this part.
Your home shop is much better equipped than the tool room where I work! 😫
The guy who was the go-to person for manual turning and milling did NOT look after the place. Bits and pieces _everywhere_ . Nothing had a 'place', except for the machines obviously. Drawers were/are just places where things went to die. Like end mills just rolling around, blunting and being blunted by other end mills and chunks of random material.
Hi. Please James i want to know the reason we should connect vfd with filter
ever consider a vibratory tumbler? Ive been researching , and the results vary widely/.
not to nitpick, but whenever i'm on a mill and squaring up stock I usually use a larger face mill or fly cutter mill to optimize surface finish. Even though there is no wrong in using a smaller end mill to face & true up stock, I often get skittish in doing so. Worried that somehow a part of the stock isn't completely flat in my vice, or my hand might of accidently bumped the knee by accident and won't know it till half way in. Or I don't wish to have a final helical pattern mirror finish on the face. Which is therefore why I prefer a larger face mill, or a fly cutter sized to such, but sometimes you don't have that luxury and you have to work with, with what you got.
Hi…. can you do videos electrical system which Beckhok RTU modul connected to driver motor.
Better than factory!!
Nice work as usual James, and great video. While at it, you should has opted to install a Morton Quill Stop (the one with the button 1213-S), I really like mine, much faster setting than using the original.
So they add the length of the scale to the other one that is behind? Sounds like something I'm also searching for.
Very nice. I've been told not to put the swab (or brush) back in the container, since it will contaminate it. So you're supposed to put a small quantity in a tiny cup and brush it on from there. Your take?
Also I like the subscription reminder. Unfortunately I cannot do so again.
I think the dull beaver was a little poorly.
I'm just a little envious of your mill now. Great stuff.
[Edit] Oh, and I think I actually gasped at the interrupted cut finish. Especially going so heavy on a small lathe.
I was very pleased. 1018 is notorious for a dull, chewy finish. It got a little into that territory with the fine cuts at the end, but it's still great.
James mentioned PM935 3 axis DRO installation video but i can't find in anywhere on his YT channel , is it accessible by Patreon supporters only?
NICE
Consider installing a Morton educated quill stop nut....Once the quill DRO is installed, the stock nut is a fiddly real pain to get at.
I actually have a pushbutton stop nut, but it turned out to be the wrong thread pitch. :(
@@Clough42
I had machined one of the quill stop threaded rods out of hardened threaded rod to 1/2-20 on a Sharp mill to install the educated nut. The original was a coarse thread .No one offered an educated nut in that thread.
Decent lathe project. For you.
I had completely forgot the purpose of the part until the end of the video, I was just here for the ride on a nicely made part. Also wife asked me what I wanted for christmas, where did you get your NSK die filer from?
James, can I inquire as to the name & manufacturer of the digital hole micrometer (??) you're using @ 15:40? Nice looking tool.
That part looks great! I assume you are mounting the read head to it? I would be a little bit worried, that the force of pushing the quill trip could misalign the read head 🤔. (testing the upper trip looked like it took quite bit of force to do so)
Also, I dip parts into the bluing solution.
Beautiful work. I'll have to pick up some bluing solution sometime because it leaves such a nice finish! How are you liking the 690X vises? I'm getting close to buying one, just wondering if they have any issues
Can you provide any detsils on your NSK pencil grinder and the burr you are using?
Links are in the video description. The burrs are just about the cheapest imports available. I've tried expensive ones, too, and found very little difference:
NSK Emax Evolution Standard with Lever Handpiece (eBay*): ebay.us/IqNh4t
Carbide Burr Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3DI15Fp
I'm restoring a few machines and I would like to paint them white. I've seen a few brands that come in white from factory. I call it the Amscope white. Looks just like the white of this milling machine.
Does anyone know if there's a specific name for that color/finish or even a known brand with color code? TIA
I'm glad you have done this video James as I have a touch dro to fit to my Bridgeport. One suggestion to make life easier next time, whilst you have the block in the mill, centre find the face containing the boss and centre drill it. Now when you put it in the lathe, you can use the fixed centre between the centre drilling and the tailstock to clock it in. The same methodology goes for the through bore as it's always easier to bore on the lathe where possible.
Not sure what the chemical is in your bluing solution, but selenium dioxide can be used for detecting latent fingermarks because it won't blue the metal where the oils in the fingermark are.
Yea, I second the push button nut for the stop. It’s the bees knees.
I purchased (paid) , well let's say I ordered the tool post from Peter. It will be a month this Friday. Just curious how long it took you to get your tool post.
18 calendar days from payment to delivery.
Nice pencil grinder, for US$1,200+!!!
James, bought a PM power Y feed for my 1957 BP. They said good for BP's and clones. That's not true as clones are metric and the BP Imperial. After the third one shipped proved itself a runner we got into converting the metric bolt circles, and hardware to be compatible with the BP. I keep the machine all Imperial, can't see the old girl being bi...
Dull 🦫
I think that the metric system is growing on me. Nearly every thing that I make is done in metric.
Aha, outro was recorded before part was installed :)
I hadn't planned on installing it, but decided to, right after I recorded the outro.
👍👏👏👏
You left us with a cliff hanger. OR is it a cliff scalier?
Yeah, here in Colorado rust isn't really a thing either.
Naw. Dropping the bits on the floor is mandatory in my shop
where the dirty mind viewers at 😹
Can you add a tip jar section to patreon? I don't really need drawings and I just want to throw $1/month your way.
Patreon's UI is goofy. If you go to www.patreon.com/join/clough42 the custom pledge button is available.
damn im early
You have spent so much on tools, how can you put up with that crappy little lathe? I don’t get it.
It's easier to work on small parts using a small lathe. The cost comparison of a "crappy little lathe" to a "not crappy little lathe" is fairly negligible as there doesn't seem to be a "fantastic little lathe" on the market. So even the "not crappy" lathes need a bit of work to dial them in correctly. Since he's put so much effort into the one he has already then it makes economic sense to stick with it. At least, until a fantastic little lathe comes out....
@@HelenaOfDetroit I've had nearly every size of lathe there is...7 by 12, 9 by 20, a c4 9by 20 .....now I have a 2 horse 12 by 36......and access to a 17 by 60 5 horse......2 horse is really small enough for small parts....I would never buy a 1 horse lathe any more......by the way...C4 is a great little lathe if you're in the kitchen!
It's also a matter of shop space. But you're right; this lathe is a great little lathe now. If I were to buy (and find the space for) an HLV-H, I would miss the ELS.
By coincidence, I'm just considering how to fit a glass scale to the quill of my Bridgeport so I'll be watching closely. Good on you for using metric threads! Bravo.
@@Clough42 yeah, I'd love an HVLH....they do come up once a month or so here in the northeast....you'll find one sooner or later!
Curse you and your metric hardware!!!!! *fist shakes with intensity*