dropping an endmill like that is incredibly stupid. Id never do that. Twice. Or three times. Ive heard rumor a 2 flute 1/4 carbide mill will break right half in two if dropped from mill table height to the concrete floor.
Cutting forces cause collets to loosen up like a shell mill breaking the taper sometimes. Or the collet could have been over clamped deforming it from the intended size. I doubt he clamped undersize round bending it into a bell and only clamping the very tip of the collet vs manufacturing precision causing a similar condition.
Who cares? I've destroyed Walter Titex carbide drills that go for 120$ per pop in drill presses at work trying to put a hole in random tooling for various reasons. No one cared, accidents happen and you just move on.
Hi James, the same thing happened to me with my first carbide mill. without having used it yet, minutes before I inspected it to see how it was, incredible the damage caused by the small fall. Now I put plastic caps on them when I handle them. From Argentina I greet you and we are here because your channel and your honesty in showing your own learning invites us to follow you.
With no disrespect I absolutely love the home style shop videos you make. It really gives to the learning style that i love so much about machining. Your channel is basically what I want to be as a home machinist in the future. I LOVE the content
The #1 way I can think to describe what I like / love about this channel is that you are a *class act*. The presentation as well as the work itself is done to such a high standard from start to finish, top to bottom. Its simply aspirational to watch, and I mean that in the most general way, as though you're setting an example for living, not only machining.
You made me feel better about my "delayed" project. Thanks for the video. On my G0768 (an 8" lathe), I ended up using a magnetic strip and a read head on the cross slide. It works well and even with chips, the reading has been very accurate. It wasn't cheap but there wasn't any other way that didn't get in the way of other things like my traveling rest. BTW, it looks like you are planning on a solid tool post on your cross feed; you will love it. Made a world of difference.
Very nice project James, it was a project a hobbyist could do. I've been subscribed for quite a while and was going to un-subscribe because most of the projects seem like they're for a professional and not a hobbyist. Plus there was too much "look at the expensive tools I have" (name dropping tools). But this project makes this retired 70 year old want to buy a good hobby lathe to go along with the hobby mill I have. Thank you for a very good video.
Sigh.....having successfully fitted a DRO to my small mill I lusted for one on the lathe too........but as you said, it's a difficult position to attach one to.......some older lathes just don't have enough flat surfaces to attach things to, so I'll be watching your expertise to see if I can pick some tips.......i might have to go with one of those lesser popular types that look like a long digital vernier slide with a long wire lead out to a small display (cheap and cheerful), that way I get Metric or Imperial to 5 microns ......I only need (want) the crosslide DRO......for years I've used a dial indicator against the tool post with a mag base for the final accuracy.....it's only the last few thou you really need to get it right.
Dear James, I've been fiddling with the idea for my very small VM210 lathe, I have the scales but I hadn't the mill yet to do a reasonably clean job (only a converted drill-press with DRO which is at best 'soft/limp' and clearly 'chatty') ... I'm to receive my 'true' mill tomorrow so that video is very timely. Many thanks for your inspiration (not the least being the ELS with integrated servo) I'm not sure what you intend to do with the holes on the cross-slide, but with a solid post, it might be a good idea to link the X reading to the phase/position of the main leadscrew, adding an offset to make an "electronic 30° (or whatever thread angle) virtual compound movement". Very best regards, Jean
At least carbide makes a lovely ringing tone when it bounces off steel! This is why I'm making a power drawbar for my mill, roughly similar to Marc Presling's design for his Bridgeport. I also have the PM-935, so I'll be interested to see your mounting solution if you make a PDB.
You are totally awesome. I love the Fusion Design, 3D printing, casting, cnc machining - Awesome. I really like how you talk through the decision/engineering proicess. Keep 'em coming James!
I’ve been trying to decide on the same problem X mounting location, so this video is much to my liking. Look forward to the outcome of this project. And fast forward to the 4 holes you drilled and tapped on the cross slide, I assume you’re going to make a more rigid mount for the compound, also something I need to do as well. Right now I’m using a solid tool post, but I want my compound option too. Thanks Mr. James.🔥🔥
My second hand mill came with a Kurt Power Drawbar. Your not likely to drop any tools with it. I didn’t realize how slick they were until I had one. Great videos, thanks for sharing.
It's a beauty. It's way too expensive to justify the productivity I'll get out of it, but I smile every time I pick it up. I'm smiling now, just thinking about it.
Hi James. I came back to your channel after a long absence. It's not the engineering that fascinates me - it's how you lost a ton of weight and managed to keep it off, long term (the hardest thing). Congratulations from a fellow dieter who didn't succeed (this time, like you did). Regards.
Hi James! I like your videos so don’t worry! I am proud of you for continuing to work after you made a mistake! I made one and I corrected it and all was well after! Take care!
great video as always. while i am sorry for you loss (endmill) i am glad i am not the only ones that drops tools.. I'm still looking for video where someone drops a micrometer on a concrete floor so i can not be alone.....
Another excellent video! I am curious why you chose steel for the read head bracket vs. aluminum, for example? Seems like the forces at play in use are very low, unless something most unfortunate occurs...
Note: Those who receive the ToAuto DRO Screen with two buttons that are labeled differently. The CA button is the same as the AC button and the INV button is the same as the ARC button. As of March 2024 the Operation Manual has not been updated to show this.
I’m actually doing a DRO install on the 0752. And I’m using optical scales, the way I’m dealing with the gib adjustment is by just moving the gib to the other side (headstock side) and drilling new gib adjust screws on the other side. And I’ll just throw some set screws in the old holes to plug them.
I need your help fella I have a very similar lathe to yours, colour is different, what I don't have is the gear listing for the feed screw, all the variations etc etc .... do you have a paper version you could send me PLEASE
You can sharpen that mill. It's not like you're running a production shop. BTW why don't you use an electronic edge finder. One day after I bought mine the manual one has sat in a box. Good video.
Good Afternoon James, I've watched a considerable amount of your videos and really have enjoyed them. I have a Grizzly G0752 lathe which I'm going to install your electronic lead screw project on. I noticed while watching various videos that you have really nice bench with drawers and etc that your Grizzly G0602 in mounted on. Is this a project that you built? If so do you have any plans available or where I could get them? I also do a lot of woodworking and would like to build one like yours without going through the hassle of designing it. Keep up the great videos.
I want to know how you managed to keep it in the living room for 5 YEARS? My wife would've started "asking" me what i was going to do with it after 5 DAYS!
magnetic scale on a lathe? .... I don't think that's a good choice I had that too and it got full with chips after some time. Nowadays I'm not using any DRO with it anymore, after converting it to CNC. I'm just using the encoder on the ballscrew (not as accurate as a linear scale but still good enough especially for my mini lathe). Chips and dust are just ending up everywhere after some time.
James thx for sharing this video. I've been perplexed on how to shoehorn a DRO onto a mini lathe myself. You have more room to work with your small lathe. Sorry for your endmill loss. I agree that wasn't supposed to happen. Man typically you have to tap the drawbar to get the collet to release, oh no not this time. Can you do a video on resharpening that carbide endmill ? Again, thx for sharing.
I have done this exact thing a number of times, along with breaking corners, wearing tools etc. My recommendation is to start a resharpen pile alongside the scrap pile, you can send them to be sharpened (and sometimes recoated) for much less than replacement, and a good grinder will give you the final dimension the tool was ground to so there isn't any guessing and checking when using the tool next.
James, just heard your name mentioned by Clark on the Windy Hill Foundry channel. Sounds like you and Clark will be collaborating on a project soon. How cool. Can't wait to see it.
Another fun project, James. I'm still lurking around watching your content because I've dabbled with electronics, 3D printing, 3D modeling & have a 14" Sieg Mini Lathe that I'm in the middle of (7 yrs, so far) adding a DIY Touch DRO to. I'll be posting a video soon showing how I added the long z-axis scale with custom chip guard to the back of the lathe. Stan's idea of mounting the scale horizontally, screwing M3 bolts through the thin metal really got me wondering if I could do the same with my cross slide. I'd have to rethink my existing cross slide locking mechanism to make room. My scale's read head completely surrounds the scale bar & I wonder if I could lose the back half & cut down the remaining plastic to allow it to fit better. Wouldn't have thought of that had you not shown it first. Thanks! :) Looking forward to the next episode.
I have a long bed mini lathe, mounted a DRO years ago. It still limited what i could do on the lathe in terms of complex shapes. I gutted all that , mounted linear rails and ball screws for X-Z, no hassle of scales, couple of steppers, a 2-axis CNC and now i can turn any shape i want and i'm not even close to being a lathe guy. Just saying, incase that's the next stop.
Great video, I will order the deburring tool and as Always, thank you for all you do for the community. Happy Holidays to you and your Family. All the best in the new year k
I have the same lathe and really want to add the DRO. I'm not seeing any info on what DRO kit you are installing. Do you have a link, a name, or a part number. Thanks
Is there enough space behind the oilers to fit the compound? If so, I would recommend to add the mounting features for the compound in that area...as a contingency. Then you do not have to dis- and re-assemble the tool post again in case you need to cut a cone in the future. Just mount the compound in the back and cut with reverse speed 🤔
James. I am enjoying your channel. Your planning for different projects, the process and the professional outcome tells me you're having way too much fun in your shop. HAHAHA Thanks for sharing.
Another amazing, in depth video!!!! James. They just keep getting better and better!! Great great job. Thank you!! One small note worth considering if you still have the saddle off the machine. The same guy who inspired you to drill the 4 holes for the future STPH, had a good tip along the way that worked well on my small lathe. Add 4-5 more holes and pins for the gib set screws. The additional control really helps to increase rigidity even more. Just food for thought. You certainly don’t need my opinion. Yours are damn good. Cheers! 😀
Hi James, the cutter..hmmm, yep we`ve all been there, the machinist that tells you it never happened to them is either a liar or well a liar. join the club. well done in part one. you`d cringe if you watch some outside contractor's attach dro`s to machines with cordless drills, lots of washers and shim plates. its satisfying to make a neat job
The other gotcha is forgetting the expensive carbide end mill is still in place and then trying to wind your table through to the other end and wondering what that "ting" noise was as you pass the vice...
if you spot the holes first like you should for at least 2 reasons 1st to assure accurate location, and 2nd to verify correct location before drilling in the wrong spot there is no need to chamfer the tapped hole and damage the leading thread on the finished holes because the spotter has already done that
To me that 'event' would be an opportunity to use a d-bit grinder to redo the tips :-) Just as a diversion of course because a project without diversions just isn't a project.
One of the benefits of predrilling holes in slots is that you get to use a portion of the rnill that usually doesn't see any action. Should have tried a full depth slotting op with that extra long endmill.
Ciao James, ottimo lavoro e video molto bello spiegato molto bene. Io leggo i sottotitoli perché non capisco la tua lingua, faccio fatica a capire tutto ma le immagini aiutano perfettamente. Ciao
Hey James, great video! I wanted to ask if you find issues with the angle of the indicator tip in relation to the work? It was my understanding that the tip should be roughly 12° (manufacturer-dependent) from the surface it’s measuring, otherwise you get cosine error on the reading. Perhaps it doesn’t matter if you’re using it as a comparator? Thanks!
That only matters if you are trying to take a measurement. If you're trying to tap something in straight, it doesn't really matter. I guess the argument could me made that you still want to know if you're "within one thou" or whatever, but I'm not really worried about it.
Gday James, it’s heart breaking when an end mill drops, this has happened many times here, the bracket looks good, great idea mounting the scale on its side, thanks for sharing, cheers
What drill chuck are using? Im currently shopping for one. I am following this closely as I have been wrestling with my 0602 on the dro issue. I really wish grizzly had thought the issue through more from the get go though. Your awesome & thanks for the videos!
I've been following your channel for a long time, very helpful content. I looked at your subscriptions, I know half of you, but I wanted to ask about the Stazinowski you talked about in 1:52 min. can you send a link to his channel? Ps. I have the same problem with mounting the X axis, I am starting to inspect it. Greetings from Poland :) Śledzę twój kanał od dłuższego czasu, bardzo pomocne treści. Przejżałem twoje subskrybcje, połowę znam ale chciałem zapytać o Stazinowski o którym mówiłeś w 1:52 min. możesz podesłać linka do jego kanału? Ps. Mam ten sam problem z zamontowaniem dro osi X , zabieram się do oglądznia. Pozdrawiam z Polski :)
I heard someone once ran there 5 insert shell mill in their Bridgeport without changing direction in back gear with some rather disappointing results🤷♂. Makes a carbide end mill look cheap.
Hi James, as always, another great video! Can't believe you held up that long to install the DRO! I had the same dilemma for the cross slide DRO, it gets in the way and limits the tail stock travel so I placed everything inside the crosslide! My lathe is similar to the PM-1127 in size so probably slightly larger than yours, but you could build your own readheads like I did and you wouldn't even notice a DRO was installed! It sure is within your capability! Let me know if the idea is for you.
@@Clough42 They are small indeed, it is tight but but if you make your own read head housing they'll fit in. You can check out the The Model Engineer forum UK. There is a thread titled DIY magnetic DRO which shows all the details of making the read heads and fitting inside the cross slide.
Ouch! You must have good collets cuz the cheap import ones never do that. Though half the time they don't go in either 🤣. Great looking bracket, James! Cheers!
dropping an endmill like that is incredibly stupid. Id never do that. Twice. Or three times. Ive heard rumor a 2 flute 1/4 carbide mill will break right half in two if dropped from mill table height to the concrete floor.
If u don’t drop it in your foot you just aren’t trying
Cutting forces cause collets to loosen up like a shell mill breaking the taper sometimes. Or the collet could have been over clamped deforming it from the intended size. I doubt he clamped undersize round bending it into a bell and only clamping the very tip of the collet vs manufacturing precision causing a similar condition.
🤣🤣🤣
Who cares? I've destroyed Walter Titex carbide drills that go for 120$ per pop in drill presses at work trying to put a hole in random tooling for various reasons. No one cared, accidents happen and you just move on.
@@OB1canblowme humor and sarcasm isn’t for everyone. 🤷♂️
Nice job. Great video, as always. I look forward every week to the weekend so I can watch you video.
8:20 Normal, its a cast iron part so you have an angle on the sides to get these pieces out of the forms ... so no calculating ussue.
Hi James, the same thing happened to me with my first carbide mill. without having used it yet, minutes before I inspected it to see how it was, incredible the damage caused by the small fall.
Now I put plastic caps on them when I handle them.
From Argentina I greet you and we are here because your channel and your honesty in showing your own learning invites us to follow you.
The only thing worse than a razor sharp carbide end mill falling out of a collet is having it slide across your hand when it drops.
You have not gotten cut clamping or unclamping a work piece by grazing the spindle's tool? Oh man, you haven't lived. Cuts wicked fast and deep!!
@@mordantly I've done that too many times also.
"I'm gonna go through it **IN DETAIL**"
With no disrespect I absolutely love the home style shop videos you make. It really gives to the learning style that i love so much about machining. Your channel is basically what I want to be as a home machinist in the future. I LOVE the content
Thanks! I try to make the videos I would want to watch, and it's encouraging to hear from other people who enjoy them.
The #1 way I can think to describe what I like / love about this channel is that you are a *class act*. The presentation as well as the work itself is done to such a high standard from start to finish, top to bottom. Its simply aspirational to watch, and I mean that in the most general way, as though you're setting an example for living, not only machining.
You made me feel better about my "delayed" project. Thanks for the video. On my G0768 (an 8" lathe), I ended up using a magnetic strip and a read head on the cross slide. It works well and even with chips, the reading has been very accurate. It wasn't cheap but there wasn't any other way that didn't get in the way of other things like my traveling rest. BTW, it looks like you are planning on a solid tool post on your cross feed; you will love it. Made a world of difference.
Very nice project James, it was a project a hobbyist could do. I've been subscribed for quite a while and was going to un-subscribe because most of the projects seem like they're for a professional and not a hobbyist. Plus there was too much "look at the expensive tools I have" (name dropping tools). But this project makes this retired 70 year old want to buy a good hobby lathe to go along with the hobby mill I have. Thank you for a very good video.
Sigh.....having successfully fitted a DRO to my small mill I lusted for one on the lathe too........but as you said, it's a difficult position to attach one to.......some older lathes just don't have enough flat surfaces to attach things to, so I'll be watching your expertise to see if I can pick some tips.......i might have to go with one of those lesser popular types that look like a long digital vernier slide with a long wire lead out to a small display (cheap and cheerful), that way I get Metric or Imperial to 5 microns ......I only need (want) the crosslide DRO......for years I've used a dial indicator against the tool post with a mag base for the final accuracy.....it's only the last few thou you really need to get it right.
I actually wanted Z more than X, for establishing shoulder locations.
Dear James,
I've been fiddling with the idea for my very small VM210 lathe, I have the scales but I hadn't the mill yet to do a reasonably clean job (only a converted drill-press with DRO which is at best 'soft/limp' and clearly 'chatty') ...
I'm to receive my 'true' mill tomorrow so that video is very timely.
Many thanks for your inspiration (not the least being the ELS with integrated servo)
I'm not sure what you intend to do with the holes on the cross-slide, but with a solid post, it might be a good idea to link the X reading to the phase/position of the main leadscrew, adding an offset to make an "electronic 30° (or whatever thread angle) virtual compound movement".
Very best regards,
Jean
Those top holes wouldn’t happen to be for a 6 bolt crosslide (compound) clamp would they??? I have been considering that mod for my lathe
Hey, that's a really good idea. :)
Clearly you need another machine. A tool and cutter grinder to re-sharpen that end mill. :)
Clearly.
At least carbide makes a lovely ringing tone when it bounces off steel!
This is why I'm making a power drawbar for my mill, roughly similar to Marc Presling's design for his Bridgeport. I also have the PM-935, so I'll be interested to see your mounting solution if you make a PDB.
You are totally awesome. I love the Fusion Design, 3D printing, casting, cnc machining - Awesome. I really like how you talk through the decision/engineering proicess. Keep 'em coming James!
James, your video descriptions are the most comprehensive out of all the channels I’ve seen. Amazing work.
I’ve been trying to decide on the same problem X mounting location, so this video is much to my liking.
Look forward to the outcome of this project. And fast forward to the 4 holes you drilled and tapped on the cross slide, I assume you’re going to
make a more rigid mount for the compound, also something I need to do as well. Right now I’m using a solid tool post, but I want my compound option too. Thanks Mr. James.🔥🔥
My second hand mill came with a Kurt Power Drawbar. Your not likely to drop any tools with it. I didn’t realize how slick they were until I had one. Great videos, thanks for sharing.
Yeah, it's on my list. :)
Nice to see the little hand grinder in action, sorry bout your end mill :(
It's a beauty. It's way too expensive to justify the productivity I'll get out of it, but I smile every time I pick it up. I'm smiling now, just thinking about it.
Hi James. I came back to your channel after a long absence. It's not the engineering that fascinates me - it's how you lost a ton of weight and managed to keep it off, long term (the hardest thing). Congratulations from a fellow dieter who didn't succeed (this time, like you did). Regards.
Osada makes a very nice 40,000 handpiece also. Expensive but my favorite tool. Next favorite is my BurrKing 2 inch belt grinder.
Nice. Been looking at those. I actually bought parts to build my own, and that project is dragging out like all of my others.
Hi James! I like your videos so don’t worry! I am proud of you for continuing to work after you made a mistake! I made one and I corrected it and all was well after! Take care!
great video as always. while i am sorry for you loss (endmill) i am glad i am not the only ones that drops tools.. I'm still looking for video where someone drops a micrometer on a concrete floor so i can not be alone.....
Oooh... I dropped an 8" digital caliper last week. I had to stone the jaws and straighten the depth rod, but I think it's okay.
Another excellent video! I am curious why you chose steel for the read head bracket vs. aluminum, for example? Seems like the forces at play in use are very low, unless something most unfortunate occurs...
Yes, except for the stop screw. The tailstock will likely hit that repeatedly, and I want the threads to hold.
Sometimes Murphy comes by, that’s live..
NSK, huh? If you get the cash… 😂😂😂 you deserve it brother! You get my subscription and even your own playlist in my library! Thank you!
Note: Those who receive the ToAuto DRO Screen with two buttons that are labeled differently. The CA button is the same as the AC button and the INV button is the same as the ARC button. As of March 2024 the Operation Manual has not been updated to show this.
I’m actually doing a DRO install on the 0752. And I’m using optical scales, the way I’m dealing with the gib adjustment is by just moving the gib to the other side (headstock side) and drilling new gib adjust screws on the other side. And I’ll just throw some set screws in the old holes to plug them.
I need your help fella I have a very similar lathe to yours, colour is different, what I don't have is the gear listing for the feed screw, all the variations etc etc .... do you have a paper version you could send me PLEASE
You can sharpen that mill. It's not like you're running a production shop. BTW why don't you use an electronic edge finder. One day after I bought mine the manual one has sat in a box. Good video.
Good Afternoon James, I've watched a considerable amount of your videos and really have enjoyed them. I have a Grizzly G0752 lathe which I'm going to install your electronic lead screw project on. I noticed while watching various videos that you have really nice bench with drawers and etc that your Grizzly G0602 in mounted on. Is this a project that you built? If so do you have any plans available or where I could get them? I also do a lot of woodworking and would like to build one like yours without going through the hassle of designing it. Keep up the great videos.
I want to know how you managed to keep it in the living room for 5 YEARS? My wife would've started "asking" me what i was going to do with it after 5 DAYS!
magnetic scale on a lathe? .... I don't think that's a good choice I had that too and it got full with chips after some time. Nowadays I'm not using any DRO with it anymore, after converting it to CNC.
I'm just using the encoder on the ballscrew (not as accurate as a linear scale but still good enough especially for my mini lathe).
Chips and dust are just ending up everywhere after some time.
24:57 That is super satisfying to watch. Ill have to look into those
Put some of those fabulous RUclips riches to good use. :)
James thx for sharing this video. I've been perplexed on how to shoehorn a DRO onto a mini lathe myself. You have more room to work with your small lathe.
Sorry for your endmill loss. I agree that wasn't supposed to happen. Man typically you have to tap the drawbar to get the collet to release, oh no not this time.
Can you do a video on resharpening that carbide endmill ?
Again, thx for sharing.
I have done this exact thing a number of times, along with breaking corners, wearing tools etc. My recommendation is to start a resharpen pile alongside the scrap pile, you can send them to be sharpened (and sometimes recoated) for much less than replacement, and a good grinder will give you the final dimension the tool was ground to so there isn't any guessing and checking when using the tool next.
May I ask where you send them to be resharpened or re-coated?
James, just heard your name mentioned by Clark on the Windy Hill Foundry channel. Sounds like you and Clark will be collaborating on a project soon. How cool. Can't wait to see it.
Another fun project, James. I'm still lurking around watching your content because I've dabbled with electronics, 3D printing, 3D modeling & have a 14" Sieg Mini Lathe that I'm in the middle of (7 yrs, so far) adding a DIY Touch DRO to. I'll be posting a video soon showing how I added the long z-axis scale with custom chip guard to the back of the lathe. Stan's idea of mounting the scale horizontally, screwing M3 bolts through the thin metal really got me wondering if I could do the same with my cross slide. I'd have to rethink my existing cross slide locking mechanism to make room. My scale's read head completely surrounds the scale bar & I wonder if I could lose the back half & cut down the remaining plastic to allow it to fit better. Wouldn't have thought of that had you not shown it first. Thanks! :) Looking forward to the next episode.
It's worth looking. I was surprised that this installation left my carriage lock accessible.
i broke a 25 mm carbide rouffingmill by not tightening the vice down after i used my rotarytable..about 100€ down the drain
Looking to fit a SRO to my 0704 have you any tips on drilling and tapping the Cast Iron frame parts for the fixing bolts
I have a long bed mini lathe, mounted a DRO years ago. It still limited what i could do on the lathe in terms of complex shapes. I gutted all that , mounted linear rails and ball screws for X-Z, no hassle of scales, couple of steppers, a 2-axis CNC and now i can turn any shape i want and i'm not even close to being a lathe guy. Just saying, incase that's the next stop.
Great video, I will order the deburring tool and as Always, thank you for all you do for the community. Happy Holidays to you and your Family. All the best in the new year k
I have broken plenty of tooling. It happens. After you build a cutter grinder you will be able to touch up the ends.
I have the same lathe and really want to add the DRO. I'm not seeing any info on what DRO kit you are installing. Do you have a link, a name, or a part number.
Thanks
Great discussion/build
Looks like someone will get a fixed tool post sooner or later... 👍
Is there enough space behind the oilers to fit the compound?
If so, I would recommend to add the mounting features for the compound in that area...as a contingency.
Then you do not have to dis- and re-assemble the tool post again in case you need to cut a cone in the future.
Just mount the compound in the back and cut with reverse speed 🤔
Definitely been there, dropped a 500+$ (thankfully well used) 3/4 carbide.
Broke right in half where the flutes started.
Fun fun
Love it. What drill chuck are you using on your mill? I'm looking at a new one for mine.
It's the 1/2" keyless chuck that Precision Matthews sells for their mills.
@@Clough42 Thank you!!
James. I am enjoying your channel. Your planning for different projects, the process and the professional outcome tells me you're having way too much fun in your shop. HAHAHA Thanks for sharing.
Just resharpen and you’ll get away with only time consumed for that. I hate when some clumsy shop gorilla drops my tools.
The reason I watch is so I don't feel so bad when I drop and ruin a carbide end mill myself lol 😆👍🏻🍻
Another amazing, in depth video!!!! James. They just keep getting better and better!! Great great job. Thank you!! One small note worth considering if you still have the saddle off the machine. The same guy who inspired you to drill the 4 holes for the future STPH, had a good tip along the way that worked well on my small lathe. Add 4-5 more holes and pins for the gib set screws. The additional control really helps to increase rigidity even more. Just food for thought. You certainly don’t need my opinion. Yours are damn good. Cheers! 😀
I thought about it. Maybe someday.
Hi James, the cutter..hmmm, yep we`ve all been there, the machinist that tells you it never happened to them is either a liar or well a liar. join the club. well done in part one. you`d cringe if you watch some outside contractor's attach dro`s to machines with cordless drills, lots of washers and shim plates. its satisfying to make a neat job
The other gotcha is forgetting the expensive carbide end mill is still in place and then trying to wind your table through to the other end and wondering what that "ting" noise was as you pass the vice...
Send the chipped end mill to Steve Summers. He'll restore its functionality.
this should be of great help in mounting a DRO on my small lathe. awesome ideas, thanx!
If a guy called "Randy Richard" knocked I wouldn't let him in.
Maybe the end mill wasn't actually the size stated and was in fact a few thousand less..that then caused it to slip in the collet..just a thought..
Yea I have never broke a tool in my shop because I have made an assumption… at least not on my RUclips channel… yet…
I’m still here cause I like your project and I pick up info keel up the good videos
if you spot the holes first like you should for at least 2 reasons 1st to assure accurate location, and 2nd to verify correct location before drilling in the wrong spot there is no need to chamfer the tapped hole and damage the leading thread on the finished holes because the spotter has already done that
That is one hell-of-a setup for the saddle. My god.
You were not kidding, the NSK grinder is not cheap!!!
Me suscribo atu canal yo soy tornero y mi sueño amigo es tener un torno para ayudar Ami familia estoy con mucho entusiasmo 🙏
Bummer I'm pretty sure everyone has turned at least one endmill into a sidemill only cutter before 😑
Always like your videos wish there was more glen from Ireland
I opened a package of 1/8" endmill and it was upside down. Soooo...
To me that 'event' would be an opportunity to use a d-bit grinder to redo the tips :-) Just as a diversion of course because a project without diversions just isn't a project.
One of the benefits of predrilling holes in slots is that you get to use a portion of the rnill that usually doesn't see any action. Should have tried a full depth slotting op with that extra long endmill.
Ciao James, ottimo lavoro e video molto bello spiegato molto bene. Io leggo i sottotitoli perché non capisco la tua lingua, faccio fatica a capire tutto ma le immagini aiutano perfettamente. Ciao
Stefan Gotteswinter can resharpen it for you. Don't fret.
my initial thought
install scale on the ways and read head on the sliding piece
it really shouldn't matter which part go where
Hey James, great video! I wanted to ask if you find issues with the angle of the indicator tip in relation to the work? It was my understanding that the tip should be roughly 12° (manufacturer-dependent) from the surface it’s measuring, otherwise you get cosine error on the reading. Perhaps it doesn’t matter if you’re using it as a comparator? Thanks!
That only matters if you are trying to take a measurement. If you're trying to tap something in straight, it doesn't really matter. I guess the argument could me made that you still want to know if you're "within one thou" or whatever, but I'm not really worried about it.
Thanks James, this is very pertinent content for me. 👍
Could fit my small lathe in the swing of that "small" lathe :P
Thanks for sharing your mistakes too! You helped me a lot!
Great video good skills and knowledge thanks 👍
Your idea for the bump stop screw in the read head bracket is great.
Gday James, it’s heart breaking when an end mill drops, this has happened many times here, the bracket looks good, great idea mounting the scale on its side, thanks for sharing, cheers
Sorry about the bit, glad to know I'm not the only one.
You _could_ put new gib screws on the chuck side of the cross slide - right? 🤔
23:45 I'm all too familiar with these little bastards.
You are not the first to convert and end mill to a side mill 😢
What drill chuck are using? Im currently shopping for one. I am following this closely as I have been wrestling with my 0602 on the dro issue. I really wish grizzly had thought the issue through more from the get go though. Your awesome & thanks for the videos!
It's the 1/2" keyless chuck that PM sells for their machines.
I've been following your channel for a long time, very helpful content. I looked at your subscriptions, I know half of you, but I wanted to ask about the Stazinowski you talked about in 1:52 min. can you send a link to his channel?
Ps. I have the same problem with mounting the X axis, I am starting to inspect it.
Greetings from Poland :)
Śledzę twój kanał od dłuższego czasu, bardzo pomocne treści. Przejżałem twoje subskrybcje, połowę znam ale chciałem zapytać o Stazinowski o którym mówiłeś w 1:52 min. możesz podesłać linka do jego kanału?
Ps. Mam ten sam problem z zamontowaniem dro osi X , zabieram się do oglądznia.
Pozdrawiam z Polski :)
ruclips.net/user/ShadonHKW
do you have a link to the die grinder/deburr tool?
I heard someone once ran there 5 insert shell mill in their Bridgeport without changing direction in back gear with some rather disappointing results🤷♂. Makes a carbide end mill look cheap.
Oh, for sure. That sounds ugly.
Randy sure does have nice knockers!
Great video. Thank you. What bit are you using intuit deburring machine? Im like the look of it over my Fordom, and will likely get one.
Just a cheap 3mm double cut taper burr from a $13 import set of 20. I tried some nice ones from McMaster and couldn't really tell the difference.
yikes, that grinder is proud
Incredibly, I predicted a pattern.
keep the endmill for side milling
Hi James, as always, another great video! Can't believe you held up that long to install the DRO! I had the same dilemma for the cross slide DRO, it gets in the way and limits the tail stock travel so I placed everything inside the crosslide! My lathe is similar to the PM-1127 in size so probably slightly larger than yours, but you could build your own readheads like I did and you wouldn't even notice a DRO was installed! It sure is within your capability! Let me know if the idea is for you.
That does sound very cool. It's tight in there, but the actual magnetics are pretty small...
@@Clough42 They are small indeed, it is tight but but if you make your own read head housing they'll fit in. You can check out the The Model Engineer forum UK. There is a thread titled DIY magnetic DRO which shows all the details of making the read heads and fitting inside the cross slide.
you could do dentistry with that tool
Why I'm still here, hmmm.... you are lucky I'm not your next door neighbor 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
Great stuff as usual, THANKS !
Looking at the assemblage of all the clamps and 1-2-3 blocks on the mill... Somehow I heard Christopher Walken cajoling for more Cowbell. (SNL ref..)
am i still here? gah tricked again!
Ouch! You must have good collets cuz the cheap import ones never do that. Though half the time they don't go in either 🤣. Great looking bracket, James!
Cheers!
19 minutes till the money shot!