You did a lot better job of centering the spring pin hole than I did. Mine looks like a beaver chewed it out. Of course it goes up and down with no effort just like yours. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Nice job James...it's nice to see someone install a Z drive properly at the intended angle...which allows for a Y drive to be mounted properly...RR found out the hard way not to mount it vertically
Hi, James: another winner! We all like seeing how you approach a project and solve the issues that come up. The more I watch your videos, the more I think that we are very alike: I, too, have valuable storage space on shelves and in drawers (that could be used for more tools) taken up with original parts & pieces removed to make improvements (alterations?) to my equipment and tooling, plus stuff from previous changes I have made, just in case I want to go back or want to modify an old part for yet another change. And like you, I organize and label so I'll know (mostly) what I have and where (and to make things easier for my wife if I go first, although she has told me that she's just going to call the 1-800-GOT-JUNK guys). Take care & stay safe, Charlie
You could have put the castle nut in your vice and centered/drilled the holes for the pin. This becomes the 'guide' to drill through the shaft. Worked perfect when I did mine. Nice Video.
With the added length of the extension & the handle sticking out in the way ,even more than it already does...I went with the drill adapter some fellow on Ebay makes, it works slick and is "outta the way" when slipped off, takes 5 seconds. But thanks for the video, James.
Here's a weird twist for ya… I installed the same drive on the same mill. And I also ran into a LOT of trouble getting that cast iron collar loose. I cranked on that thing with every wrench, pliers, and clamp in the shop. Probably sweated over it for an hour before I decided to try the old trick of tightening it a bit first to loosen the bond. I tweaked it to the right, and it immediately and easily unthreaded *clockwise*. Yes, on my PM-935 that part, and the casting, have a LH thread. What the hell?
Hi folks. James will have used a 115 volt drive. Here in the UK they are also available in 230 volts. Please note that these 230 volt drives are not acceptable for commercial use. They do not comply with the relevant legislation. I addd a relay based control unit to my amateur use 230 volt X axis drive to have 24 volt ac on the limit switches, not 230 volts. A better way would be to use a step down transformer to reduce our 230 volts to 115 volts and use a commercial drive - see James' episode on control circuit transformers - he explains the essential 115 volt earthing requirements very clearly.
Be interesting to know actual concern of UK Rule other than low voltage control wiring In the US versions I have worked on there generally DC motors with the limit switches working on control board logic power
I installed one of these on the Z drive on my 935 mill. The drive would hang at an angle so I drilled some new holes so now it hangs vertically. Works perfectly.
I have the same mill and experienced the same issues installing the same Z-axis power feed. Managed to make a few false steps but got it working. Pays to have mechanical aptitude! And yes, I did snap off a tap.
I have nearly the exact same unit; I did not get mine from PM, but luckily they use the same English-Chinglish translation service as my straight from Chi-neh version. I am using mine on the LH side of my X-axis of my HF mill (Identical hardware). Don't turn your back on those shifty stools; I am sure it let out a cackle as you seated to the floor 🙂
Thanks, James. I’ve been thinking about adding this feature myself, and I realize I’m not as bold as Cà Lem (who did so by fitting the whole business inside the knee). 👍
Hi James, I recently discovered your channel and I can’t stop watching! Love your work! The depth and breadth of your knowledge and skill is certainly inspiring. This video threw me off because the other mill I watched you work with was the PM-940 and then I saw this one. So after researching them both, I see these are two different styles of mill. Any chance we could convince you to compare and contrast the two mill styles? Thanks from a new Patreon supporter!
I need to take my x axis power feed apart on my chevalier mill to get it back working right the Potentiometer for speed control has multiple dead spots. Called travers tool company since they make my particular power feed to get parts but they don't sell the parts for their own product. Now I have to remove it and try and match something up that will work. After watching your video just know man that z axis power feed would be so much easier than cranking the z axis by hand
A straight forward job.... as long as you're not installing a Z axis power feed onto an Ajax mill. My AJT-1 has a Z height mechanism is basically the same design as the one shown here (and a Bridgeport), but everything is metric, and some dimensions are significantly different. Initially I thought this was going to be relatively easy to rectify, but it isn't. Every little mismatch which initially looks manageable has knock on effects on other parts. The biggest problem is that the ring which clamps the bearing is a smaller OD (67mm vs 2.95") - too small for the PCD of the power feed mounting screws to fit into. Fixing this ideally requires redesign and manufacture of a new, thicker clamping ring with a stepped OD. Then a correspondingly longer extension shaft needs to be made, longer to compensate for the thicker bearing clamping ring, and with the M20 thread for the shaft. And it needs to incorporate the nut which you undo with the pin spanner, and which the axis scale rides on, because there isn't enough thread on the shaft for it and the shaft extension separately. The castellations for the handle don't match either. This could be solved by buying a Bridgeport handle, however, when the extension shaft has to be so comprehensively re-designed, the new design could probably use the original keyed castellated part somehow. However, I put the job to one side after discovering how much re-engineering was going to be needed. My Align Z axis power feed parts have sat in a cupboard for about 6 years, waiting for me to get around to re-designing and making the new bearing clamping ring and extension shaft. Maybe this video will make me get around to having another look at it........
@@Clough42 I sort of agree. It'll be an interesting little project - just one which hasn't got towards the top of my never ending 'to do' list yet! I watched your video wondering whether you'd run into the same problem, and if so, how you'd worked around it. You were luckier then me, in that your machine must be a more exact copy of a Bridgeport than mine! Thanks for the videos - always interesting.
I have a strong feeling that you as most of us machinists have, a bit of ocd. And will make that drive hang perfectly vertical 😅 Love your videos! Keep up the good work.
I thought about it, but after playing with it for a bit, I think I prefer it this way. I'm tall, that this makes the controls easier to reach without being over as much.
Thanks James. I'm installing the same Power Feed on a Bridgeport. It's funny that no where in the instructions does it say that you need to "drill" a hole through the shaft, but it became evident pretty quickly. The drill guide you made was a great idea. Mine makes a "clunk" sound when switching direction. Does yours? Thanks
😁 Can we all just take a moment to admire the new shirt James is wearing? Or not wearing? I can't believe he is not wearing a polo shirt, but I have to believe it since I'm looking at it. 🤔
What is the best brand? I have gone through several that blow parts at low speed. I have Learned how to repair boards now. But would like not have to repair them all the time.
Your printed drill guide got me thinking. What about modifying a v-block, with a perpendicular reamed bore, to insert various size drill guide bushings into, for occasions such as this? Maybe such already exists, that I’m unaware of…
Pro tip, remove the spring on the handle and the screw and washer assembly so it’s built up like before, add a limit switch which is pressed in when the handle in engaged with the teeth, and wire the switch so the motor won’t turn if it is activated
On a machine we had where I used to work, the z axis was set up like this with a power feed and limit switch on the handle, thinking back perhaps the handle had something on it to specifically activate this switch, but it definitely made life easier using the machine, I think the switch was mounted underneath the shaft
Yes. The '940 had some issues with the machining. In particular, the X and Y axes were way out of spec for squareness. I opted to upgrade to the 935, which is made entirely in Taiwan.
Hey guys and Hello From Germany . I have a Bridgeport Series 1 and the Same Power Feed installed. It works . But!!!! It runs constantly only at half of the Rpm Range to Max. Slow Speed it Always starts and stops . I have connected the wiring to the Engine outlet of the x Axis serial Engine and i have there112volts . This should be right. Do you mean i have a Bad Engine or should i try an external Power converter for our 230volts to 110. thanks
If you can't flip the z lever like before, how are you going to avoid walking into it? Could be a convenient location for a bright coloured rubbish bin/trash can as a visual reminder ?
James, while watching the video, I thought it was an optical ilution seeing the power drive at an angle. After reading the comments, I understand that it is intentional. If a y axis was not going to be installed, could the drive be instaled virtical? looking to upgrade to this model mill.
I noticed that in recent projects you use more and more metric hardware. Is this some systemic change you going through or you select what works better for every task?
Is there a reason you elected not to use any thread adhesives on the extension shaft? Edit, commented before the end of the video😅 good work on the drill guide
I would like to see a "better" shop stool build. I work in agriculture and we use mechanics stools to do our work on raised benches; however if you can't get your knees under the bench you have to bend forward .... They don't call it back breaking work for nothing. Any ideas would be appreciated 👍👍👍👍
I asked a question in your last video about the belt sander you used a VFD do you need this to grind at slow speed and why do you need to grind at a slow speed thanks
Hi mate, yes a vfd changes the rpm of the motor and the belt speed as a result. A vfd allows you to supply the full voltage to the motor, and only alters the frequency of the supply to achieve the speed control, other methods vary the voltage usually, which would severely reduce torque and likely make your reduced belt speed useless, as the belt would stall. As for why..... finer belts with higher grits can run slower to prevent excessive heat or burning the belt, making fine adjustments to delicate pieces, different materials ie carbide vs wood vs plastics vs hss, etc, etc, variable speed allows you to fine tune your grinder, and more likely to achieve the desired finish and/or material removal rate 😀
Also, a single to 3 phase vfd will allow a 3 phase motor to be used, which runs smoother than a single phase motor, is better balanced in the way it operates I would guess and so there is less vibration transferred through to your work piece etc and the belt speed is more constant, which in itself is a good reason to use a vfd
🤣😂🤣😂 Son of a biscuit James..... My boss took out my green screen set in seconds after it took me 3 Hours to get set up and the cloth ironed out.. Also, by not sitting down properly..... 🤣😂🤣😂
@@Clough42 The handle can get bumped if you are going from one side of table handle to other if you do not turn power off it could move knee up or down during your job. I also find things just stick out to much when trying to use both X and Y at same time.
I am surprised that when the Chinese copied the actual Servo brand of knee feed that they ended up with the funky angle to the power unit itself. My Servos hang straight up and down on the Bridgeports. I also find it hard to believe that for decades companies paid toolmakers and machinists to spend time cranking the knee up and down. All that time lost would probably have paid for 10 knee feeds. You’ll wonder why you didn’t get one sooner if I had to guess.
I already wonder. How I lived without it I think the angle is because the Asian mill just has the screw pattern clocked differently in the knee, which isn't important until you add a feed. However, it's a happy accident that makes the controls easier to reach if you're tall.
That key way is indeed, a key… feature… 😅 EDIT: I’ve seen these before, the way they hang all catiwompus to one side is enough to prevent me from ever installing one, its just too much to cope with. Which brings me to my main complaint with the bridgeport mill and it’s clones, lack of mechanical feed features. This is the biggest reason I’ve started looking for a replacement for my bridgeport. I just don’t like the fact that it’s necessary to hang a bunch of servo motors off all the axis for power feed. There are so many machines out there that do this so much better, and in turn allow for tying the movement of the table to the speed of the spindle. I sometimes wonder how the bridgeport became “king” in the first place.
Bridgeports have had power feed drives for years, at least on the X axis. They’re well made but expensive and difficult to repair. Cheaper Import units have their own problems and are sometimes hard to adapt to Bridgeports. Many millions of high quality Bridgeports with easily replaceable parts made them the overwhelming standard of the industry for many years. Unfortunately their era is over but they can be rebuilt to factory standards by reputable firms.
@@ellieprice363 Perhaps you didn't understand my comment. Yes, like I said, you can install a power feed on all 3 axis of a bridgeport very easily. But they are nothing more than servo motors that hang off of whichever axis on which they're installed and operate completely independent of the spindle, and without regards to each other. Doesn't matter if it's a stock BP unit, "servo" or "vevor" brand, they are the same. Compare this to other manual machines with mechanical feeds that are tied to spindle rotation and to each other, and a servo motor is an unarguably inferior option when you're talking about a "manual" machine. Bridgeports "can" do a lot of things. Just not many of them very well. They became the industry standard due to price, availability, flexibility, and ubiquity. They are decent machines. But they're not by any stretch the "end all be all" of milling machines, despite their cult like following.
I elected to make a stub arbor that interfaces to the Z axis 7 tooth cog on the mill and I drive it with a portable drill when required....stole the idea from Mr.Pete.....
You did a lot better job of centering the spring pin hole than I did. Mine looks like a beaver chewed it out. Of course it goes up and down with no effort just like yours. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
You are the only other person I know who installed the pin.
@Clough42 is went through a long convoluted process to get mine done, OCD that is have.......Lol!
Nice job James...it's nice to see someone install a Z drive properly at the intended angle...which allows for a Y drive to be mounted properly...RR found out the hard way not to mount it vertically
As always, I appreciate your snarky sense of humor most. Thanks!
Hi, James: another winner! We all like seeing how you approach a project and solve the issues that come up.
The more I watch your videos, the more I think that we are very alike: I, too, have valuable storage space on shelves and in drawers (that could be used for more tools) taken up with original parts & pieces removed to make improvements (alterations?) to my equipment and tooling, plus stuff from previous changes I have made, just in case I want to go back or want to modify an old part for yet another change. And like you, I organize and label so I'll know (mostly) what I have and where (and to make things easier for my wife if I go first, although she has told me that she's just going to call the 1-800-GOT-JUNK guys).
Take care & stay safe, Charlie
Mine was used with no pin or instructions, I thought threads weren't good enough so I added a taper pin. Glad to see we're on the same page
You could have put the castle nut in your vice and centered/drilled the holes for the pin. This becomes the 'guide' to drill through the shaft. Worked perfect when I did mine. Nice Video.
I wasn't confident I would hit the exit hole.
Best way to drill the cross hole if you don’t have 3D printing.
With the added length of the extension & the handle sticking out in the way ,even more than it already does...I went with the drill adapter some fellow on Ebay makes, it works slick and is "outta the way" when slipped off, takes 5 seconds. But thanks for the video, James.
Here's a weird twist for ya…
I installed the same drive on the same mill. And I also ran into a LOT of trouble getting that cast iron collar loose. I cranked on that thing with every wrench, pliers, and clamp in the shop. Probably sweated over it for an hour before I decided to try the old trick of tightening it a bit first to loosen the bond. I tweaked it to the right, and it immediately and easily unthreaded *clockwise*. Yes, on my PM-935 that part, and the casting, have a LH thread.
What the hell?
Hi folks. James will have used a 115 volt drive. Here in the UK they are also available in 230 volts. Please note that these 230 volt drives are not acceptable for commercial use. They do not comply with the relevant legislation. I addd a relay based control unit to my amateur use 230 volt X axis drive to have 24 volt ac on the limit switches, not 230 volts. A better way would be to use a step down transformer to reduce our 230 volts to 115 volts and use a commercial drive - see James' episode on control circuit transformers - he explains the essential 115 volt earthing requirements very clearly.
Is the relevant concern the limit switch circuit?
Be interesting to know actual concern of UK Rule other than low voltage control wiring
In the US versions I have worked on there generally DC motors with the limit switches working on control board logic power
I installed one of these on the Z drive on my 935 mill. The drive would hang at an angle so I drilled some new holes so now it hangs vertically. Works perfectly.
l was surprised he kept it that way.
the drive is supposed to be mounted in that position....he did it properly...it allows for a Y drive to be installed
@@edvig2015 thank you, learned something today, makes me wonder why he added this drive and not the Y drive.
@@ronsreadyornotshopY drive will probably come later. They are very useful.
I decided that I didn't want the Y drive but I did want it to hang vertically. So I did it my way.
I loved the cackle!
“ Just try and stay out of my way. Just try! I'll get you, my pretty, and your little dog, too! ” 😂
I love this channel so much I wish you had 2 episodes per week!
Power Z axis makes running a knee mill so much easier. Good install James.
I have the same mill and experienced the same issues installing the same Z-axis power feed. Managed to make a few false steps but got it working. Pays to have mechanical aptitude! And yes, I did snap off a tap.
This mill has a tap installed under the DRO bracket.
nice, i can see that handle wacking me in the cajones after i forgot to install the spring .
That's why there's a spring, for sure.
I have nearly the exact same unit; I did not get mine from PM, but luckily they use the same English-Chinglish translation service as my straight from Chi-neh version. I am using mine on the LH side of my X-axis of my HF mill (Identical hardware). Don't turn your back on those shifty stools; I am sure it let out a cackle as you seated to the floor 🙂
Thanks, James. I’ve been thinking about adding this feature myself, and I realize I’m not as bold as Cà Lem (who did so by fitting the whole business inside the knee). 👍
Hi James,
I recently discovered your channel and I can’t stop watching! Love your work! The depth and breadth of your knowledge and skill is certainly inspiring.
This video threw me off because the other mill I watched you work with was the PM-940 and then I saw this one. So after researching them both, I see these are two different styles of mill.
Any chance we could convince you to compare and contrast the two mill styles?
Thanks from a new Patreon supporter!
Timely video. I’ve got one to install on my PM mill. This definitely makes my job easier, thanks for posting it! 🙏
I can see you designing and building a handle that flips 180 degrees now.
Ha ha reading the comments so can others.
I need to take my x axis power feed apart on my chevalier mill to get it back working right the Potentiometer for speed control has multiple dead spots. Called travers tool company since they make my particular power feed to get parts but they don't sell the parts for their own product. Now I have to remove it and try and match something up that will work. After watching your video just know man that z axis power feed would be so much easier than cranking the z axis by hand
A straight forward job.... as long as you're not installing a Z axis power feed onto an Ajax mill. My AJT-1 has a Z height mechanism is basically the same design as the one shown here (and a Bridgeport), but everything is metric, and some dimensions are significantly different. Initially I thought this was going to be relatively easy to rectify, but it isn't. Every little mismatch which initially looks manageable has knock on effects on other parts.
The biggest problem is that the ring which clamps the bearing is a smaller OD (67mm vs 2.95") - too small for the PCD of the power feed mounting screws to fit into. Fixing this ideally requires redesign and manufacture of a new, thicker clamping ring with a stepped OD.
Then a correspondingly longer extension shaft needs to be made, longer to compensate for the thicker bearing clamping ring, and with the M20 thread for the shaft. And it needs to incorporate the nut which you undo with the pin spanner, and which the axis scale rides on, because there isn't enough thread on the shaft for it and the shaft extension separately.
The castellations for the handle don't match either. This could be solved by buying a Bridgeport handle, however, when the extension shaft has to be so comprehensively re-designed, the new design could probably use the original keyed castellated part somehow.
However, I put the job to one side after discovering how much re-engineering was going to be needed. My Align Z axis power feed parts have sat in a cupboard for about 6 years, waiting for me to get around to re-designing and making the new bearing clamping ring and extension shaft. Maybe this video will make me get around to having another look at it........
If you just want a machine that works, that's a pain. If you want a project and enjoy working on it, that's another matter.
@@Clough42 I sort of agree. It'll be an interesting little project - just one which hasn't got towards the top of my never ending 'to do' list yet! I watched your video wondering whether you'd run into the same problem, and if so, how you'd worked around it. You were luckier then me, in that your machine must be a more exact copy of a Bridgeport than mine! Thanks for the videos - always interesting.
Simple/smart drill guide!!!
This was a great fit up video for this mill mod. Thank you!
I like the printed drill guide.
Nice.. I have the same mill except mine is a 3 phase TS model running a single phase to 3 ph VFD.. Nice machine.
I just used a set screw, and a a file for the dowel pin.
Because you work out, that little tumble didn't hurt you!
Nope. In fact, I thought it was pretty funny. Bone density FTW.
I have a strong feeling that you as most of us machinists have, a bit of ocd. And will make that drive hang perfectly vertical 😅
Love your videos! Keep up the good work.
I thought about it, but after playing with it for a bit, I think I prefer it this way. I'm tall, that this makes the controls easier to reach without being over as much.
@@Clough42 I see. Then it’s all good 👍 I’m tall too so would probably come to the same conclusion.
Thanks James. I'm installing the same Power Feed on a Bridgeport. It's funny that no where in the instructions does it say that you need to "drill" a hole through the shaft, but it became evident pretty quickly. The drill guide you made was a great idea.
Mine makes a "clunk" sound when switching direction. Does yours? Thanks
Yes. Every one I've ever used has a significant clunk when engaging and disengaging.
😁 Can we all just take a moment to admire the new shirt James is wearing? Or not wearing? I can't believe he is not wearing a polo shirt, but I have to believe it since I'm looking at it. 🤔
try fitting rollar blade wheels to the stool it makes it twice the fun
What is the best brand? I have gone through several that blow parts at low speed. I have Learned how to repair boards now. But would like not have to repair them all the time.
If you were to buy a new manual mill today for one-off projects and small batch production what would you recommend?
Your printed drill guide got me thinking.
What about modifying a v-block, with a perpendicular reamed bore, to insert various size drill guide bushings into, for occasions such as this?
Maybe such already exists, that I’m unaware of…
Align made great RC Helicopters. Not sure about there vacumes and other things.
Pro tip, remove the spring on the handle and the screw and washer assembly so it’s built up like before, add a limit switch which is pressed in when the handle in engaged with the teeth, and wire the switch so the motor won’t turn if it is activated
Mount the switch where, exactly? That seems impractical, unless I'm missing something.
On a machine we had where I used to work, the z axis was set up like this with a power feed and limit switch on the handle, thinking back perhaps the handle had something on it to specifically activate this switch, but it definitely made life easier using the machine,
I think the switch was mounted underneath the shaft
@@Kyran31 yer full of shit.
Hi, love your channel. Did the PM-935 replace the PM-940
Yes. The '940 had some issues with the machining. In particular, the X and Y axes were way out of spec for squareness. I opted to upgrade to the 935, which is made entirely in Taiwan.
@@Clough42 i am very jelousof your PM-935, if only i had the room
Hey guys and Hello From Germany . I have a Bridgeport Series 1 and the Same Power Feed installed. It works . But!!!! It runs constantly only at half of the Rpm Range to Max. Slow Speed it Always starts and stops . I have connected the wiring to the Engine outlet of the x Axis serial Engine and i have there112volts . This should be right. Do you mean i have a Bad Engine or should i try an external Power converter for our 230volts to 110. thanks
I hit the like during the intro 😆
Nice! Good Job!!!
How do you get the rafts to pop off so easily?
If you can't flip the z lever like before, how are you going to avoid walking into it? Could be a convenient location for a bright coloured rubbish bin/trash can as a visual reminder ?
Because it isn't engaged on the clutch, it swings when hit. We'll see how it goes.
@@Clough42 - Seems like it should be a fold-away handle, with detents.
James, while watching the video, I thought it was an optical ilution seeing the power drive at an angle. After reading the comments, I understand that it is intentional. If a y axis was not going to be installed, could the drive be instaled virtical? looking to upgrade to this model mill.
I'd check carefully to make sure it will clear the base.
I noticed that in recent projects you use more and more metric hardware.
Is this some systemic change you going through or you select what works better for every task?
I try to match the fastener to the job. I generally use metric hardware on Asian machines so I avoid making a confusing mess for the next person.
Is there a reason you elected not to use any thread adhesives on the extension shaft?
Edit, commented before the end of the video😅 good work on the drill guide
Nice job.
Next Step; make a wrench with a pivoting handle to keep from bumping in to.
I would like to see a "better" shop stool build. I work in agriculture and we use mechanics stools to do our work on raised benches; however if you can't get your knees under the bench you have to bend forward .... They don't call it back breaking work for nothing. Any ideas would be appreciated 👍👍👍👍
I'm not sure if this would help or not, but would the a "better posture"-style chair be worth looking into?
I have a nice adjustable height stool from Costco that works great, but not for low work.
where is the cnc mill?
I asked a question in your last video about the belt sander you used a VFD do you need this to grind at slow speed and why do you need to grind at a slow speed thanks
Hi mate, yes a vfd changes the rpm of the motor and the belt speed as a result. A vfd allows you to supply the full voltage to the motor, and only alters the frequency of the supply to achieve the speed control, other methods vary the voltage usually, which would severely reduce torque and likely make your reduced belt speed useless, as the belt would stall. As for why..... finer belts with higher grits can run slower to prevent excessive heat or burning the belt, making fine adjustments to delicate pieces, different materials ie carbide vs wood vs plastics vs hss, etc, etc, variable speed allows you to fine tune your grinder, and more likely to achieve the desired finish and/or material removal rate 😀
Also, a single to 3 phase vfd will allow a 3 phase motor to be used, which runs smoother than a single phase motor, is better balanced in the way it operates I would guess and so there is less vibration transferred through to your work piece etc and the belt speed is more constant, which in itself is a good reason to use a vfd
🤣😂🤣😂 Son of a biscuit James..... My boss took out my green screen set in seconds after it took me 3 Hours to get set up and the cloth ironed out.. Also, by not sitting down properly..... 🤣😂🤣😂
What platform do you have the mill on?
I have it bolted to a couple of pieces of rectangular tubing: 6"x4" 3/8" wall.
@@Clough42 Awesome, thank you very much!!
Uhh, yeah. That rolling stool thing? Been there done that.
It was right where I wanted it and I bumped it with my heel as I tried to sit down. I'm glad it rolled completely clear of my landing zone.
Every one of us has done that. We just didn't get caught on camera.
Nice install I personally do not like power feed on knee they seam to cause more problems then they are worth.
What kind of problems?
@@Clough42 The handle can get bumped if you are going from one side of table handle to other if you do not turn power off it could move knee up or down during your job. I also find things just stick out to much when trying to use both X and Y at same time.
I am surprised that when the Chinese copied the actual Servo brand of knee feed that they ended up with the funky angle to the power unit itself. My Servos hang straight up and down on the Bridgeports. I also find it hard to believe that for decades companies paid toolmakers and machinists to spend time cranking the knee up and down. All that time lost would probably have paid for 10 knee feeds. You’ll wonder why you didn’t get one sooner if I had to guess.
I already wonder. How I lived without it I think the angle is because the Asian mill just has the screw pattern clocked differently in the knee, which isn't important until you add a feed. However, it's a happy accident that makes the controls easier to reach if you're tall.
The crooked motor. OCD says nay..
That key way is indeed, a key… feature… 😅 EDIT: I’ve seen these before, the way they hang all catiwompus to one side is enough to prevent me from ever installing one, its just too much to cope with. Which brings me to my main complaint with the bridgeport mill and it’s clones, lack of mechanical feed features. This is the biggest reason I’ve started looking for a replacement for my bridgeport. I just don’t like the fact that it’s necessary to hang a bunch of servo motors off all the axis for power feed. There are so many machines out there that do this so much better, and in turn allow for tying the movement of the table to the speed of the spindle. I sometimes wonder how the bridgeport became “king” in the first place.
Bridgeports have had power feed drives for years, at least on the X axis. They’re well made but expensive and difficult to repair. Cheaper Import units have their own problems and are sometimes hard to adapt to Bridgeports. Many millions of high quality Bridgeports with easily replaceable parts made them the overwhelming standard of the industry for many years. Unfortunately their era is over but they can be rebuilt to factory standards by reputable firms.
@@ellieprice363 Perhaps you didn't understand my comment. Yes, like I said, you can install a power feed on all 3 axis of a bridgeport very easily. But they are nothing more than servo motors that hang off of whichever axis on which they're installed and operate completely independent of the spindle, and without regards to each other. Doesn't matter if it's a stock BP unit, "servo" or "vevor" brand, they are the same. Compare this to other manual machines with mechanical feeds that are tied to spindle rotation and to each other, and a servo motor is an unarguably inferior option when you're talking about a "manual" machine. Bridgeports "can" do a lot of things. Just not many of them very well. They became the industry standard due to price, availability, flexibility, and ubiquity. They are decent machines. But they're not by any stretch the "end all be all" of milling machines, despite their cult like following.
They didn't bother to drill the hole for the spring pin? I guess it's a way of preventing returns.
I believe you drill through the original Z-axis shaft on the mill.
The pin position changes, depending on the shims installed.
@@Clough42 Yea, but they could have at least drilled a hole through the clutch shoulder for marking the hole location.
👍🏻
I hung mine down straight.
It's angled to clear a Y power feed motor in the future.
Coffee not included in packaging... meh I skip that :D
I got the impression that you were trying to make the job seam more difficult then it was, I have some cheese for that wine😊
👍
I elected to make a stub arbor that interfaces to the Z axis 7 tooth cog on the mill and I drive it with a portable drill when required....stole the idea from Mr.Pete.....
Anything is better than hand cranking a knee up and down. By the way those drill attachments were out there when Mr. Pete was just a young’en.
I think Tom Lipton showed this at one point, too.
Why put the handle on ? 3D print a cover for it. One less thing to bump your knee on (knee vs knee).
So I can precisely feed with the knee.
@@Clough42 Now I get it, that's what powerlifting was for all those years...🙂
The quality of the Align brand is good, being Tiawanese, but there better units, those with gearbox, gears and oil. Way more money.
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I’m definitely triggered by the motor not being vertical - how about y’all?
It makes the controls easier to reach if you're tall.
@@Clough42 true. But still wonky bits look odd when things are generally vertical and horizontal on mills etc.
@@75keg75 I saw another comment saying that it has to be angled to clear a y power feed. I can't confirm.
@@75keg75 You can tip the Mill at an angle, or put it in a garage with angled walls, to make it all look consistent 🙂 again.
@@timogross8191 could be easier installing a false floor with a grade. Or cheap option 1platform heal and one normal shoe 🤣🤣
I get confused every time I watch your videos - aren't we supposed to be trolling you?!
Please don't show us your bruises from the clutch handle.
Are you aware that you´re on their webpage?
Whose web page?
@@Clough42 Align