I understand more about stepper motors and drivers now than after weeks of trawling through the internet. Thank you. Such clear but still detailed explanations.
Nice job Michel and some recognisable hardware involved ;-). CNC preparation step one completed! I have three additions to your work which I would like to have. 1) All my milling machines show me the feeds in mm/min. Which is convenient when I'm in doubt about a cut to be made. I'll find the data on the cutting tool and the material involved. This gives me a spindle speed and a feed in mm/min which I both can set on the speeds and feeds selectors on my machines. Below the data on a monday and above on a friday because I like to go home on time... For free cutting stuff like aluminium and plastics this isn't that important so maybe it's sufficient for you and your work as it is now. 2) I would like to have a rapid feed possibility to move to and from the work quickly for especially measuring the part in between cuts. Maybe a home position would be nice for doing so. Which brings me to the third "like to have" and that would be limit switches for the travel. I think that the stepper motor will simply stall at the end of the bed travel but shutting of the drive would be more elegant in my opinion. When the limit switches are adjustable in x position you could set the machine feeding slowly and do something else in the meantime. No nagging here just admiring your work and be supportive. All the best! Job
Hi Job! Yes, I used the stepper you donated! It had just that little more torque I needed for 3 rev's per sec. *) All my milling machines show me the feeds in mm/min... I could make an appropriate scale around the selector knob. Still have to make the printing for the frontpanel. Do you happen to have a good idea how I could make clear and durable captions on the aluminum front panel? Anodizing seems a hassle to me.. *) I would like to have a rapid feed possibility to move to and from the work quickly... 3 rev/s is my 'rapid' feed. I've tried 4 per second and faster, but then the stepper motor won't start unless I crank the voltage up to 42V and the amperage to 2.8A. Then I just get 4, maybe 5 rps. But then there is a significant increase in energy consumption, and the stepper becomes annoyingly hot after some time. *) Which brings me to the third "like to have" and that would be limit switches for the travel... Yes the stepper just stalls when the table reaches the limits. I have thought of this, and even have some nice micro switches for this purpose. A sliding rail at the back of the bed is quickly made, wire pair to ENA+ and done. But I don't know if it's worth it for me. Maybe I'll need it in a while. Well, then I have another nice little project. But first I want to make that rack and pinion on my Andonstar base. Hurry up China! Thank you for your valued input!
@@Michel-Uphoff Michel, about the frontpanel, I engrave on my cnc machine and fill the text with paint. I can do that for you too. Another approach could be masking the panel with plastic tape with the desired text cutout and then etch the panel in FeCl3 or similar. Fill the caps with paint and ready to go. Really quick and dirty; go to a shop where you can order engraved text panels for e.g. your front door and let them engrave on a plastic two tone laminate. Probably not enough fun ;-) Best! Job
Nice work Michel! And a great result! there is 'Automatic universal axial feed AV/E' by Proxxon item NO 24326 ca.400$. Thank you for sharing! All the best. Mohamed.
I have seen it, and it's huge (12*17*21 cm). My 10% of these costs solution is 6*10*12 cm, so it fits almost 6 times in the space occupied by the Proxxon solution and ranges from 1 to 180 rpm in stead of 10 to 130.
very creative! Lots of useful ideas for all sorts of projects! Thanks again for sharing this (BTW, for those who are not fans of AI generated narration, what you've done takes WAY more time to do - especially when done as well as you have!)
Thank you! Yes, it is a lot more work, but at least this way I can be clearly understood. And for those who don't like that AI voice, they can turn on the subtitles. Nevertheless, I still receive criticism for this choice, apparently from people who think that English is the only spoken language in this world. I hope that will pass.
Nice, but we MUST use 5v for the control. A resistor is a bad idea, unless we know exactly how the controller is built inside. We can't just guess and use any value. Here, the correct solution is to use 2 resistors to make a divider. Also it's better to have the Zener diode and the big resistor to be swapped. Zener on the ground side. So you are sure to always get 12 v, in case you use something else than 24v for the main power supply. I can make a correct schematic if someone needs it.
The resistor is proposed by the manufacturer and my power supply is fixed at 24 volt. So there are no problems here, and it still works great. But I agree with you that the suggested modifications are an improvement.
@@Michel-Uphoff I did not understand the manufacturer speak about this specific value of resistor. It makes a difference. A beginner may make big mistakes if he tries with any value by chance. I just watched your magnetic chuck, I think I need the same :)
@@Michel-Uphoff If you need a controller on which you can define the speed, with a LED or Oled display, tell me, I can write the code for Arduino and make a schematic. Also your version lacks limit switches, not so easy to use with a 555. Don't hesitate, I have fun writing Arduino code and designing schematics.
Well done! Enjoyed the construction and your implementation of the power feed stepper. Did you prefer the stepped cap method over a variable resistor? The switched capacitor would allow know feeds whereas the variable potentiometer would be more a feel after using the power feed I guess. Mark P.S. Bach Rules. Fake Albinoni is still OK.
Yes, I find the stepper motor solution superior to the variable speed DC motor. Torque and revs are much better controlled. And a really low speed is only achievable with a DC motor with a gearbox. Fake albinoni, you're right. He didn't write that score, a biographer of his did if I remember correctly. But I think it's a really beautiful piece of music. It is written for strings and organ, but I like to play my interpretation/variation of it on the piano. And Bach.. The more I hear his music, the more I learn to listen to it and to admire his genius.
@@Michel-Uphoff You are very correct in saying that a stepper is much more adapted to being used as a power feed than a DC motor. You are right, it was an Albinoni biographer. And yes it is still a nice piece of music. Mark
Hello Michael, Thanks for the great Job. I love to see your work all the time. Can you help me in finding the Speed Switch? What type do you use? The Specifications and type would be great. Thank You
The switch I used is this one: TRU COMPONENTS TC-DS2X6L It's a double 6 position switch, only one half is used. But any rotary switch wit at least 6 connections and at least one central connection would do.
One more question Michael: I am not a hero in electronics, but learned a lot. It is not clear for me what you connect to the power switch on the front. It is a 2 stage switch with 6 pins on the back? Do you connect only the 24V or the 230V, too? It looks like you connect the wires from the motor and the 230V and 24V on one drawing. Can you help me please? And which switch you use here?
That switch contains (at least) 3 independent (electric insulated from each other) on/off switches. One of those 3 turns the 230 volts to the power supply on and off (thus switching everything on/off). But when switched off, the stepper motor is still connected to the driver (via the +/- A and B connections). You can now rotate the spindle, but the moving permanent magnets in the motor generate a current in the coils, and that energy is transported via +/- A and B to the guts of the stepper driver. This energy ensures that the motor now offers considerable resistance against rotation. And supplying energy to a switched-off driver in this way does not seem healthy to me for the electronics either. That's why you need the other two on/off parts in that switch to break the circuits between the two coils in the motor and the driver. Once switched off you hardly feel any resistance from the stepper motor against rotation anymore, so you don't need a clutch mechanism. Search the internet for an MTS-402/403R switch. Maybe this link will also work in your country: www.bituoelec.com/4-way-toggle-switch/ Hope this helped. If not, just ask. Tip: When building this circuit, do it step by step and check, double check, no triple check everything before you proceed.
@@Michel-Uphoff Hello Michel, i got it working on the test board, but even I try to solder it on a solderboard - it does not work. I scratched a lot of parts right now. Can you send me please pics of your soldered work? Front and back? and some hints. That would be great.Thank You Thomas
I understand more about stepper motors and drivers now than after weeks of trawling through the internet. Thank you. Such clear but still detailed explanations.
Thank you!
I love your methodical approach to problem solving, Cheers.
Nice job Michel and some recognisable hardware involved ;-). CNC preparation step one completed! I have three additions to your work which I would like to have. 1) All my milling machines show me the feeds in mm/min. Which is convenient when I'm in doubt about a cut to be made. I'll find the data on the cutting tool and the material involved. This gives me a spindle speed and a feed in mm/min which I both can set on the speeds and feeds selectors on my machines. Below the data on a monday and above on a friday because I like to go home on time... For free cutting stuff like aluminium and plastics this isn't that important so maybe it's sufficient for you and your work as it is now. 2) I would like to have a rapid feed possibility to move to and from the work quickly for especially measuring the part in between cuts. Maybe a home position would be nice for doing so. Which brings me to the third "like to have" and that would be limit switches for the travel. I think that the stepper motor will simply stall at the end of the bed travel but shutting of the drive would be more elegant in my opinion. When the limit switches are adjustable in x position you could set the machine feeding slowly and do something else in the meantime. No nagging here just admiring your work and be supportive. All the best! Job
Hi Job!
Yes, I used the stepper you donated! It had just that little more torque I needed for 3 rev's per sec.
*) All my milling machines show me the feeds in mm/min...
I could make an appropriate scale around the selector knob. Still have to make the printing for the frontpanel. Do you happen to have a good idea how I could make clear and durable captions on the aluminum front panel? Anodizing seems a hassle to me..
*) I would like to have a rapid feed possibility to move to and from the work quickly...
3 rev/s is my 'rapid' feed. I've tried 4 per second and faster, but then the stepper motor won't start unless I crank the voltage up to 42V and the amperage to 2.8A. Then I just get 4, maybe 5 rps. But then there is a significant increase in energy consumption, and the stepper becomes annoyingly hot after some time.
*) Which brings me to the third "like to have" and that would be limit switches for the travel...
Yes the stepper just stalls when the table reaches the limits. I have thought of this, and even have some nice micro switches for this purpose. A sliding rail at the back of the bed is quickly made, wire pair to ENA+ and done. But I don't know if it's worth it for me. Maybe I'll need it in a while. Well, then I have another nice little project.
But first I want to make that rack and pinion on my Andonstar base. Hurry up China!
Thank you for your valued input!
@@Michel-Uphoff Michel, about the frontpanel, I engrave on my cnc machine and fill the text with paint. I can do that for you too. Another approach could be masking the panel with plastic tape with the desired text cutout and then etch the panel in FeCl3 or similar. Fill the caps with paint and ready to go. Really quick and dirty; go to a shop where you can order engraved text panels for e.g. your front door and let them engrave on a plastic two tone laminate. Probably not enough fun ;-) Best! Job
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Very good job and entertaining video. Congrats.
Nice work Michel! And a great result! there is 'Automatic universal axial feed AV/E' by Proxxon item NO 24326 ca.400$.
Thank you for sharing! All the best. Mohamed.
I have seen it, and it's huge (12*17*21 cm). My 10% of these costs solution is 6*10*12 cm, so it fits almost 6 times in the space occupied by the Proxxon solution and ranges from 1 to 180 rpm in stead of 10 to 130.
@@Michel-Uphoff You are correct, the size and cost are exaggerated.
very creative! Lots of useful ideas for all sorts of projects! Thanks again for sharing this (BTW, for those who are not fans of AI generated narration, what you've done takes WAY more time to do - especially when done as well as you have!)
Thank you! Yes, it is a lot more work, but at least this way I can be clearly understood. And for those who don't like that AI voice, they can turn on the subtitles. Nevertheless, I still receive criticism for this choice, apparently from people who think that English is the only spoken language in this world. I hope that will pass.
Nice, but we MUST use 5v for the control.
A resistor is a bad idea, unless we know exactly how the controller is built inside.
We can't just guess and use any value. Here, the correct solution is to use 2 resistors to make a divider.
Also it's better to have the Zener diode and the big resistor to be swapped. Zener on the ground side.
So you are sure to always get 12 v, in case you use something else than 24v for the main power supply.
I can make a correct schematic if someone needs it.
The resistor is proposed by the manufacturer and my power supply is fixed at 24 volt. So there are no problems here, and it still works great.
But I agree with you that the suggested modifications are an improvement.
@@Michel-Uphoff I did not understand the manufacturer speak about this specific value of resistor.
It makes a difference.
A beginner may make big mistakes if he tries with any value by chance.
I just watched your magnetic chuck, I think I need the same :)
@@Michel-Uphoff If you need a controller on which you can define the speed, with a LED or Oled display, tell me, I can write the code for Arduino and make a schematic.
Also your version lacks limit switches, not so easy to use with a 555.
Don't hesitate, I have fun writing Arduino code and designing schematics.
Well done! Enjoyed the construction and your implementation of the power feed stepper. Did you prefer the stepped cap method over a variable resistor? The switched capacitor would allow know feeds whereas the variable potentiometer would be more a feel after using the power feed I guess.
Mark
P.S. Bach Rules. Fake Albinoni is still OK.
Yes, I find the stepper motor solution superior to the variable speed DC motor. Torque and revs are much better controlled. And a really low speed is only achievable with a DC motor with a gearbox.
Fake albinoni, you're right. He didn't write that score, a biographer of his did if I remember correctly. But I think it's a really beautiful piece of music. It is written for strings and organ, but I like to play my interpretation/variation of it on the piano.
And Bach.. The more I hear his music, the more I learn to listen to it and to admire his genius.
@@Michel-Uphoff You are very correct in saying that a stepper is much more adapted to being used as a power feed than a DC motor. You are right, it was an Albinoni biographer. And yes it is still a nice piece of music.
Mark
Hello Michael, Thanks for the great Job. I love to see your work all the time. Can you help me in finding the Speed Switch? What type do you use? The Specifications and type would be great. Thank You
The switch I used is this one: TRU COMPONENTS TC-DS2X6L
It's a double 6 position switch, only one half is used. But any rotary switch wit at least 6 connections and at least one central connection would do.
@@Michel-Uphoff Thank You
One more question Michael: I am not a hero in electronics, but learned a lot. It is not clear for me what you connect to the power switch on the front. It is a 2 stage switch with 6 pins on the back? Do you connect only the 24V or the 230V, too? It looks like you connect the wires from the motor and the 230V and 24V on one drawing. Can you help me please? And which switch you use here?
That switch contains (at least) 3 independent (electric insulated from each other) on/off switches. One of those 3 turns the 230 volts to the power supply on and off (thus switching everything on/off). But when switched off, the stepper motor is still connected to the driver (via the +/- A and B connections). You can now rotate the spindle, but the moving permanent magnets in the motor generate a current in the coils, and that energy is transported via +/- A and B to the guts of the stepper driver. This energy ensures that the motor now offers considerable resistance against rotation. And supplying energy to a switched-off driver in this way does not seem healthy to me for the electronics either. That's why you need the other two on/off parts in that switch to break the circuits between the two coils in the motor and the driver. Once switched off you hardly feel any resistance from the stepper motor against rotation anymore, so you don't need a clutch mechanism.
Search the internet for an MTS-402/403R switch. Maybe this link will also work in your country: www.bituoelec.com/4-way-toggle-switch/
Hope this helped. If not, just ask.
Tip: When building this circuit, do it step by step and check, double check, no triple check everything before you proceed.
@@Michel-Uphoff Hello Michel, i got it working on the test board, but even I try to solder it on a solderboard - it does not work. I scratched a lot of parts right now. Can you send me please pics of your soldered work? Front and back? and some hints.
That would be great.Thank You Thomas