Been using the JD cornhead grease for over 35 years in track rollers and Idlers also the heavy oil in gearboxes and final drives these are all products that work well.
Lol I see that The Cleaner was smart enough to stay well away from this topic! 🤣 I chuckled at the "clean buckets for Christmas" part! Word has it that the Angry Oil Mob is now in transit to rural Colorada with their flaming torches and pitchforks all set for a confrontation - I mean, Aaron doesn't even know that you ONLY want to buy the jugs of oil that were bottled on Tuesdays...ha ha 😝
Thanks for going thru this. I have D2’s and 22’s and I am getting ready to do some oil changes. Being in Phoenix, I definitely plan for hotter running:)
Actually a very informative video. In the older days the oils where not as refined as they are now. The only downside with engine oils is lot of older engines need Zinc additives in order to keep moving things longer living. I have switched to using more modern engine oils vs the old stuff. As long as you have oil in the compartments you should be fine. Love the collection of grease guns you have. Most of the fill plugs don't need to be more than hand tight. However I have seen people using there gorilla force to tighten the plug. Than another person comes along and uses a chisel to get it to move cause it's so damn stuck.
We always joked in the shop that it was like Goldilocks and the Three Bears. Grandpa never tightened things enough. I always over tighten them. Dad was about right. 😂
Squatch 253 recommended for track rollers a semi fluid grease have to watch out some grease greases like to dry up get hard that is one reason 253 uses the semi fluid grease
Aaron, so glad you posted this . I have a D47U [34791] with just a drawbar and blade . I have just changed the oil in the trans after slight water contamination. Keeping in mind the op. temps here in Nth Qld Aust are quite high [ 40 deg cel ] at times. Will the Gulf Western 10/40 trans fluid be ok ? The tractor will not be doing huge amounts of heavy work . Cheers to you and yours at this time
When we told the folks at antique crawler parts about the 30 weight TDTO we put in our 7U transmission, they cringed! That is what immediately prompted our concern. In our case we will be changing out the 30 weight for 80-90 in the future. Given that your ambient temps will be high I would consider the change also. If it's not going to be a working machine, basically a 10-hour year parade tractor. It will probably be okay. But I would lean towards a heavier oil if you're going to be using it for any hard work. Especially in hot weather. That's just my two cents. 😉 hope this helps and happy holidays to you and yours as well.
I just bought a D47u for $1k and all of this feels right at home. The machine is sunken into the ground due to sitting for 20 years, the clutch is stuck, one brake "feels" free, the exhaust manifold is rotted out at the bottom of the stainless pipe someone put on, and both rear 3" plugs were pulled which kept the water out. The transmission is locked into a gear, presumably the shift interlock. I have to pull the dozer out enough to either drain and replace the engine oil OR get it to where a trailer can reach it since it is adjacent to a pond with "boggy" weeded ground.
Welcome to the club and thanks for checking out the channel. Hopefully you can get the old girl un-stuck and moving under its own power again. I've got two short video clips showing a trick on how we got ours unstuck the came in very handy. How we did it is pinned in the very top comment. Thanks for reaching out. 😊👍 ruclips.net/video/Rggg0Vt7z_w/видео.htmlsi=jpuYd7G3Aa7v7C3e
@@lifeafterourloss Yeah, I played around with this with 2 lengths of chain and a hi-lift jack attached to the blade assembly, but I was only feeling out the process before uncoupling the input/output shaft junction just behind the locked-up clutch. I'll probably use your idea with a 9000lb winch and 3 snatch blocks and HOPE something moves. I did get movement, both the engine and transmission, when I used a 24" pipe wrench (aluminum jaws) on the coupler and turned. The gear reduction is pretty astonishing.
I work part time in our school bus shop repairing buses (full time driver). We’re having a big debate over engine oil in our Cummins engines. We use a high grade 15/40 synthetic oil that is rated for 18k miles. My contention is that with the kind of stop and go driving we do, that’s way too long an interval between changes. I’m in the 5k max camp. Others think once a year whether it needs it or not. 🙄 Note that we have had issues, I believe, are related to not changing enough. Your thoughts?
I totally agree! So I would fall into the 5K camp. Even if the oil lasts 20,000 miles it still gets dirty and the only way to get dirt out of it is to drain it. 👍
@cedriccollins4931 That sounds like a c-series D4. I would start with checking the oil on the hydraulic clutch and in the transmission. It's very hard to know if there's something wrong in the gearbox. It could also be clutch adjustment or simply just slipping out of gear. I would get on eBay and find an operator's manual that encompasses your serial number. They are reasonably priced and a good start for troubleshooting. The parts book is also a must. ACMOC (Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club) is also a great resource. A membership get you access to many of the books and experience mechanics worldwide for advice. Hope this helps.
Ahhhh, comfort video
This one was fun to make. 😊 Thanks again Tom!
Been using the JD cornhead grease for over 35 years in track rollers and Idlers also the heavy oil in gearboxes and final drives these are all products that work well.
Lol I see that The Cleaner was smart enough to stay well away from this topic! 🤣 I chuckled at the "clean buckets for Christmas" part! Word has it that the Angry Oil Mob is now in transit to rural Colorada with their flaming torches and pitchforks all set for a confrontation - I mean, Aaron doesn't even know that you ONLY want to buy the jugs of oil that were bottled on Tuesdays...ha ha 😝
😂🤣 Figured I might as well dive into this one head first. I'm not afraid of the pitchforks. It's the torches that worry me with all the oil around. 😅
Great video thanks for sharing have a great Christmas
You too, merry Christmas!
Thanks for going thru this. I have D2’s and 22’s and I am getting ready to do some oil changes. Being in Phoenix, I definitely plan for hotter running:)
Thanks this helps me a lot.
Merry Christmas to you and your family
Merry Christmas to you and yours as well! 🎄
For a second I thought I was watching a Benny Hill episode when you were spinning the transmission but no bikini girls running around 😀🇨🇦
Hmm, that gives me an idea! 😉
Great videos guys!! Keep up the good work.
Merry Christmas To you and your Family.........................
Thank you! Merry Christmas to you and yours as well. 🎄
Actually a very informative video. In the older days the oils where not as refined as they are now. The only downside with engine oils is lot of older engines need Zinc additives in order to keep moving things longer living. I have switched to using more modern engine oils vs the old stuff. As long as you have oil in the compartments you should be fine. Love the collection of grease guns you have. Most of the fill plugs don't need to be more than hand tight. However I have seen people using there gorilla force to tighten the plug. Than another person comes along and uses a chisel to get it to move cause it's so damn stuck.
We always joked in the shop that it was like Goldilocks and the Three Bears. Grandpa never tightened things enough. I always over tighten them. Dad was about right. 😂
Im currently servicing my 1937 d4 g thanks for the video helped me make up my mind on transmission oil
You're very welcome. Glad it helped!
Squatch 253 recommended for track rollers a semi fluid grease have to watch out some grease greases like to dry up get hard that is one reason 253 uses the semi fluid grease
I will check it out. 👍
The JD Cornhead grease is the same spec as the Shell GADUS S2 V220 "Double Zero" semi-fluid grease that I buy in the 5-gallon buckets 🙂
Aaron, so glad you posted this . I have a D47U [34791] with just a drawbar and blade . I have just changed the oil in the trans after slight water contamination. Keeping in mind the op. temps here in Nth Qld Aust are quite high [ 40 deg cel ] at times. Will the Gulf Western 10/40 trans fluid be ok ? The tractor will not be doing huge amounts of heavy work . Cheers to you and yours at this time
When we told the folks at antique crawler parts about the 30 weight TDTO we put in our 7U transmission, they cringed! That is what immediately prompted our concern. In our case we will be changing out the 30 weight for 80-90 in the future. Given that your ambient temps will be high I would consider the change also. If it's not going to be a working machine, basically a 10-hour year parade tractor. It will probably be okay. But I would lean towards a heavier oil if you're going to be using it for any hard work. Especially in hot weather. That's just my two cents. 😉 hope this helps and happy holidays to you and yours as well.
I just bought a D47u for $1k and all of this feels right at home. The machine is sunken into the ground due to sitting for 20 years, the clutch is stuck, one brake "feels" free, the exhaust manifold is rotted out at the bottom of the stainless pipe someone put on, and both rear 3" plugs were pulled which kept the water out. The transmission is locked into a gear, presumably the shift interlock. I have to pull the dozer out enough to either drain and replace the engine oil OR get it to where a trailer can reach it since it is adjacent to a pond with "boggy" weeded ground.
Welcome to the club and thanks for checking out the channel. Hopefully you can get the old girl un-stuck and moving under its own power again. I've got two short video clips showing a trick on how we got ours unstuck the came in very handy. How we did it is pinned in the very top comment. Thanks for reaching out. 😊👍 ruclips.net/video/Rggg0Vt7z_w/видео.htmlsi=jpuYd7G3Aa7v7C3e
@@lifeafterourloss Yeah, I played around with this with 2 lengths of chain and a hi-lift jack attached to the blade assembly, but I was only feeling out the process before uncoupling the input/output shaft junction just behind the locked-up clutch. I'll probably use your idea with a 9000lb winch and 3 snatch blocks and HOPE something moves. I did get movement, both the engine and transmission, when I used a 24" pipe wrench (aluminum jaws) on the coupler and turned. The gear reduction is pretty astonishing.
@astr0creep6x6x6 Sounds like you made a little progress. 😁👍
I work part time in our school bus shop repairing buses (full time driver). We’re having a big debate over engine oil in our Cummins engines. We use a high grade 15/40 synthetic oil that is rated for 18k miles. My contention is that with the kind of stop and go driving we do, that’s way too long an interval between changes. I’m in the 5k max camp. Others think once a year whether it needs it or not. 🙄 Note that we have had issues, I believe, are related to not changing enough. Your thoughts?
I totally agree! So I would fall into the 5K camp. Even if the oil lasts 20,000 miles it still gets dirty and the only way to get dirt out of it is to drain it. 👍
He said units lol
😂
It's running good it the transmission stop moving after 30min I think it's low on fluid don't know how to check-out
Do you know what the serial number is? There are several different transmission types some have hydraulic clutches.
@@lifeafterourloss it's a 6f3787 D4 that's the #on side of the engine
@cedriccollins4931 That sounds like a c-series D4. I would start with checking the oil on the hydraulic clutch and in the transmission. It's very hard to know if there's something wrong in the gearbox. It could also be clutch adjustment or simply just slipping out of gear. I would get on eBay and find an operator's manual that encompasses your serial number. They are reasonably priced and a good start for troubleshooting. The parts book is also a must. ACMOC (Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club) is also a great resource. A membership get you access to many of the books and experience mechanics worldwide for advice. Hope this helps.
Got a d4 run it for 30 minutes stops moving I know nothing about it help please
Could be quite a few things. Does the engine stop or does it simply stop moving?