Nick, that cable is what we call split concentric. I’ve been a jointer for many years working for UKPN and we still use that today. We would use SP/C for jointing onto an existing PILSTA (PILC) cable if there was a fault on an underground service cable where the property wasn’t bonded form PME, as oppose to concentric cable (CNE combined neutral and earth). We work on that live by stripping the outer sheath off, removing the two plastic fillers, and using insulated wedges to work the neutrals and the earths out to be able to get to the live core in the middle. However we would not twist the neutral strands or the earth strands just in case they would dig into the live core at the crutch, we would just bunch them and cover with tape. If this cable was in a property and being used with a Direct Earth arrangement (TNS) and required PME (TNCS) we would simply join the neutrals and earth strands together in the service head (cut-out) if the earth loop was adequate. Lovely cable to work with 😀
Finally someone leaving good length on the cables in the board. Why does everything need to be perfect length in a board thats going to be covered, at the cost of making everything hard AF in the future if any changes are needed. Its not necessary and just a show off thing for instagram. Stop cutting cables short you literally never need to, there is always space to leave length, especially when you are going to cut the cables to length, just cut it longer, not shorter.
The Instagram sparks have even started drilling behind the DIN Rail to hide the cable entries, rather than using the provided knockouts, looks neat AF but you'd probably have to take the whole board off to add a circuit, ridiculous
I completely agree about leaving the terminating cables in the CU long enough for future changes etc. I often see RUclips videos of nicely dressed in cables without any thought for future electricians. Well done!
Ive came across you today. Have to say, I was interested in getting in to electrics years ago. Didn’t happen but it’s good to see someone young like yourself with such a good work ethic. Many tradesmen out there are Bobs, but ive enjoyed watching much of your stuff
I tend to put ferrules on the ends of the split con ends, the brown has stupidly thick insulation but shave a little bit off and that will also go in a ferrule, makes life a lot easier especially with all the neutral wires, the insulation on the neutrals will damage very easily so need to be careful with them.
I asked my nic assessor about running meter tails in cavities & he was fine with it providing the cable had some form of protection. eg. flexi conduit. That was a good enough answer for me.
I really like the idea of putting in a emergency light over the panel. The house the date moved into the electrical panel is in the basement 1/2 the basement has windows the other half has 3 super small windows guess which half has the electrical panel. So if for any reason the lighting is out you have to make your way diagonally across the basement from the stairs in the middle in the dark. I decided to take the lighting circuit for that half of the basement and put it on the UPS that's also got my cable modem that way the lights on that's how the basement at least work. I also grabbed the closet lights which were added later so they're on their own circuit, so at least each room in the house has a light that is battery backed if the power is out. I don't know why emergency lights are not more common for this scenario.
one thing Nick. for main switches, less twist is better, lets the individual cores find their own position in the rising clamp terminal. For earths with traditional 'one screw in a hole' terminals, twisting is good
In South Africa we have been using AIRDAC Cable that is constructed exactly the same way as the cable being used in your Video. The cable has been around for almost 30 years and is mainly used for low cost housing.
Good job clean neat and tidy like you I've seen that cable but never had hands-on just one thing I'd have blue-heat shrunk sleeved the neutral just to make it look neater but that's just me- take no notice wish you well and loads of work
This is probably really excessive, but I like the idea of putting a cut out fuse in the meter box if you need to derate the cable with a fuse so that can be done very easily if there’s an isolator before and it’s very easy to terminate this cable however you would have to purchase a different colour to stop confusion
Fully agreed on you leaving more length on the cables. If we put a board in a cupboard or somewhere out of the way we tend to use DADO Trunking Down to it and try and leave loads of slack in the trunking for the future, there's no point rewiring just to leave absolutely no room for replacement of anything, especially if it's meant to last 40 or 50 years You'd leave plenty of cable in a socket or switch so why not a DB
Hi. To comply with regs the main isolation switch in out door box needs to be changed to a 80amp fused isolation switch not just a standard isolation switch
33:00 *claps* Future proofing the wiring of the house. Why replace/extend a cable when just a little extra can be kept for when the next person makes an amendment. It's a minor cost addition if you're charging by the mm, but at least it won't cost the customer a shocking amount for an entire new cable in the future.
Great video as always, How does the cable look going into the dual pole isolator next to meter. Did you manage to box around it/sleeve it or leave as single insulated be interested to see 👍🏼
It offered some degree of safety as earth and neutral around the outside compared to Ahmed that has the mechanical protection and safety. It’s a kind of compromise between not having something round the outside that if you break into the cable with less danger
@@VinoVeritas_ I believe his only contribution in the run up to D-Day was to donate his entire back catalogue to entertain the troops, as long as a certain E. Blackadder was the projectionist.
Please can I get clarification, I'm a QS and was to understand that concentric cable was only used by DNO, i can't find a reference of this cable type in BS7671
i might be wrong,but haven't they ruled out puting new installs and/or full rewire Consumer Units to be set in unde main Door ways(enters or exits),emergency's way AND under stairs cupboards????
Hi Nick, Whats your thoughts on the thermal effects of the cavity insulation on the concentric cable. You have to be careful running cables in cavities these days as some insulation such as the old foam type used to effect the integrity of the cable also the glue used with the polystyrene ball type insulation can also effect the integrity of the cable sheath. If you can run it in a duct great but if not externally as a last resort. Also Nick interested how the concentric was connected the other end. Allways interested to hear what you guys think. Been in the industry for 40years now and still learning stuff.
Nick great video as usual. When was it ok to cut the cables short in the DB? When I was trained back in the 80s 236 part 1&2 you had to leave enough so that cable could be re routed if required to and MCB in that board, social media seem to have lets make the inside of the board as pretty as we can, not as you said for future spark to make changes.
We are in 2024. Anything less than cat 7a is a shot in the foot. As time goes on, the required speeds go up the cross talk in the unshielded pairs, which goes up and ruins the party
I disapprove of the 'ask permission' thing, the DNO do not ask permission. Why should we. You know we're working here, the power will go off when it goes off split concentric is excellent
So this cable can be installed through a wall like an swa but unlike standard meter tails 🤔 ive never used it before is it exceptable to use as you have......
That was going to be my question. As an industrial electrician I would have used armoured for that, thought that concentric was only used by supply companies, didn't even think it was readily available
@@AndyK.1 Why not? It’s buried in a wall. It’s not mechanically protected. It could be damaged via a drill, nails, or similar. Requires 100ma Type S time delay RCD protection id say. Treated no differently to T/E.
Split concentric cabble is not part of bs7671 its ment for use by the DNO Also you have got a non rcd protected cable burried in a wall with no mechanical protection only protective drive been the cut out fuse C2 ? Why on earth did you not just use armoured
Nick, we know you are proud of your new beard. But the beard directly under your nose now looks a little like the Führer's in some camera angles. So please do not tell us you have been reinstalling since the early hours of the morning :)
Having an emergency light near the board is a great idea (putting it on another wall so that it actually lights the board!) However a lot of newer units are now switching to Lithium batteries. I cannot help feeling that having a Lithium battery on permanent charge in a flimsy plastic container in the cupboard under the stairs is a serious fire risk........
Nick, that cable is what we call split concentric. I’ve been a jointer for many years working for UKPN and we still use that today. We would use SP/C for jointing onto an existing PILSTA (PILC) cable if there was a fault on an underground service cable where the property wasn’t bonded form PME, as oppose to concentric cable (CNE combined neutral and earth). We work on that live by stripping the outer sheath off, removing the two plastic fillers, and using insulated wedges to work the neutrals and the earths out to be able to get to the live core in the middle. However we would not twist the neutral strands or the earth strands just in case they would dig into the live core at the crutch, we would just bunch them and cover with tape. If this cable was in a property and being used with a Direct Earth arrangement (TNS) and required PME (TNCS) we would simply join the neutrals and earth strands together in the service head (cut-out) if the earth loop was adequate.
Lovely cable to work with
😀
Finally someone leaving good length on the cables in the board. Why does everything need to be perfect length in a board thats going to be covered, at the cost of making everything hard AF in the future if any changes are needed. Its not necessary and just a show off thing for instagram. Stop cutting cables short you literally never need to, there is always space to leave length, especially when you are going to cut the cables to length, just cut it longer, not shorter.
The Instagram sparks have even started drilling behind the DIN Rail to hide the cable entries, rather than using the provided knockouts, looks neat AF but you'd probably have to take the whole board off to add a circuit, ridiculous
I completely agree about leaving the terminating cables in the CU long enough for future changes etc. I often see RUclips videos of nicely dressed in cables without any thought for future electricians. Well done!
Never really did much in the way domestic fuseboards but when i did I used to tuck slack behind the breakers .
Exactly this ridiculous cutting them to length for a pretty photo, make it tidy and leave some slack
Agreed, its a consumer unit, not a plug top, provision for future work is a must in my opinion, leaving length is just good practice.
Ive came across you today. Have to say, I was interested in getting in to electrics years ago. Didn’t happen but it’s good to see someone young like yourself with such a good work ethic. Many tradesmen out there are Bobs, but ive enjoyed watching much of your stuff
I tend to put ferrules on the ends of the split con ends, the brown has stupidly thick insulation but shave a little bit off and that will also go in a ferrule, makes life a lot easier especially with all the neutral wires, the insulation on the neutrals will damage very easily so need to be careful with them.
Looks like my favourite Austrian painter 🙋🏻
I asked my nic assessor about running meter tails in cavities & he was fine with it providing the cable had some form of protection. eg. flexi conduit. That was a good enough answer for me.
You can get the proper heatshrink breakout kit for the split conc cable its got the hotmelt glue to seal the cable inside the heatshrink
I really like the idea of putting in a emergency light over the panel.
The house the date moved into the electrical panel is in the basement 1/2 the basement has windows the other half has 3 super small windows guess which half has the electrical panel. So if for any reason the lighting is out you have to make your way diagonally across the basement from the stairs in the middle in the dark. I decided to take the lighting circuit for that half of the basement and put it on the UPS that's also got my cable modem that way the lights on that's how the basement at least work. I also grabbed the closet lights which were added later so they're on their own circuit, so at least each room in the house has a light that is battery backed if the power is out. I don't know why emergency lights are not more common for this scenario.
one thing Nick. for main switches, less twist is better, lets the individual cores find their own position in the rising clamp terminal. For earths with traditional 'one screw in a hole' terminals, twisting is good
In South Africa we have been using AIRDAC Cable that is constructed exactly the same way as the cable being used in your Video. The cable has been around for almost 30 years and is mainly used for low cost housing.
Hey nick! Nice fusebaord 🤪 hope you had a nice holiday - never thought I’d bump into nick bundy at the same hotel in Tenerife ☀️🍻
Good job clean neat and tidy like you I've seen that cable but never had hands-on just one thing I'd have blue-heat shrunk sleeved the neutral just to make it look neater but that's just me- take no notice wish you well and loads of work
Excellent, professional and very logical too. I have fitted emergency lighting above my panels for years, so well done. Steve
Nick used to do it when he first started. 😂
Shit me Nick, that board looks mint. Whatever they are paying, they're getting value for money. Top job
Thanks dude
Nick does a beautiful, thoughtful rewire. Good on you bro.
Much appreciated
Thanks bud
This is probably really excessive, but I like the idea of putting a cut out fuse in the meter box if you need to derate the cable with a fuse so that can be done very easily if there’s an isolator before and it’s very easy to terminate this cable however you would have to purchase a different colour to stop confusion
Split concentric cable. It was used in public lighting sometimes back in the day.
Fully agreed on you leaving more length on the cables. If we put a board in a cupboard or somewhere out of the way we tend to use DADO Trunking Down to it and try and leave loads of slack in the trunking for the future, there's no point rewiring just to leave absolutely no room for replacement of anything, especially if it's meant to last 40 or 50 years
You'd leave plenty of cable in a socket or switch so why not a DB
Hi. To comply with regs the main isolation switch in out door box needs to be changed to a 80amp fused isolation switch not just a standard isolation switch
Yeah I put a 80amp Kmf switch mate
Fantastic bit of craftsmanship there Nick, amazing job!
Thanks Dave 👍👍
The extra wire look is a good idea 😊 and kind to future electricians.
33:00 *claps* Future proofing the wiring of the house. Why replace/extend a cable when just a little extra can be kept for when the next person makes an amendment.
It's a minor cost addition if you're charging by the mm, but at least it won't cost the customer a shocking amount for an entire new cable in the future.
Learn from BT optical Technicians. They get 1-5 meters of cable, and their installation boxes have a loopdeloop to store the extra length.
Could you not use earth heat shrink as earth sleeving for the split concentric cable ? Just a genuine question, never used that cable before 🙊
There is a heatshrink boot and set for split concentric, But it is a nightmare to find and buy.
The self-laminating Brady labels are great for cables - although the printers aren’t cheap.
Great video as always, How does the cable look going into the dual pole isolator next to meter. Did you manage to box around it/sleeve it or leave as single insulated be interested to see 👍🏼
Put a plastic shroud over the top of the KMF switch mate
Would have been nice to have seen that
@@NBundyElectricalcheers mate as a dual fuel meter fitter it's always interesting to see work in and around cutouts and isolators 😊
Nice work ! would of been tempted to strip con cable back up few inches behind board then cores through 25mm copex into fuseboard
Nice you see you learning from your years of installs
Took me long enough andy
Nice job mate, that cable looks fiddly to work with!
great install ! that cable is funky!
That defo a 25mm split con, seemed it went in quite easy with no moaning!
Split concentric cable is permitted, however it does not meet the requirements for a cable buried in a wall without RCD protection.
These little extras are the things other sparks are saying "So obvious ... why haven't I been doing that?!"
your best video yet imo. loads of good stuff in it
Love the future proof slack .
Nice job. Future proofing is always good and it still looks sweet 😊
I know the square route of nothing about electrics. That board look dead smart. I wish mine was that clean
nice board. OH, make some posters out of your board photos. They're art.
@Nick - I think you should look at the flame retardant boards that TLC electrical sell, similar to that used on meter boxes, comes with spacers also
Nick the fusebox transformer is dual modular and you have to cut the bus bar. Used 1 recently
Found that out 😭😭
@@NBundyElectrical 😂😂
Well done my man. That board looks so sexy!
Very neat board.
Rodding it with a full length
got to big up Jack from JRC.
For the earth on the incoming cable a pin crimp would make your life easier for terminating into the earthen bar
Loved the Video, not sure about the toothbrush tash though
Me neither 😭😭
You going to show the connection on the meter end?
Next videos mate
No fuse boards allowed under the stairs in ireladn 😅
Why did you choose split con cable?, instead of swa
It offered some degree of safety as earth and neutral around the outside compared to Ahmed that has the mechanical protection and safety. It’s a kind of compromise between not having something round the outside that if you break into the cable with less danger
Always Perfect work even with that moustache 🧐🙂🇮🇪☘️
What’s going on with the moustache?
I assume he's going to a D-Day fancy dress party dressed as a famous Austrian.
@@SamJSharpe Charlie Chaplin wasn't Austrian.
@@VinoVeritas_ I believe his only contribution in the run up to D-Day was to donate his entire back catalogue to entertain the troops, as long as a certain E. Blackadder was the projectionist.
@@VinoVeritas_😂
@@VinoVeritas_no he wasn’t, but Adolf was a Chaplin fan which is where his famous moustache came from….😳
Nice job Nic
Get Milwanky to send you a Hole Hogg 👍 it’s an excellent bit of kit 👍🏴
32:16 I tell my wife that is what 9 inches looks like all the time. 🤣
16mm ferrule for the earth incomer ?
What’s the reason for the concentric cable?
To be able to run a single cable rather than the tradition separate pair of Live and Neutral Meter Tails to the CU.
Please can I get clarification, I'm a QS and was to understand that concentric cable was only used by DNO, i can't find a reference of this cable type in BS7671
i might be wrong,but haven't they ruled out puting new installs and/or full rewire Consumer Units to be set in unde main Door ways(enters or exits),emergency's way AND under stairs cupboards????
Hi Nick, Whats your thoughts on the thermal effects of the cavity insulation on the concentric cable. You have to be careful running cables in cavities these days as some insulation such as the old foam type used to effect the integrity of the cable also the glue used with the polystyrene ball type insulation can also effect the integrity of the cable sheath. If you can run it in a duct great but if not externally as a last resort. Also Nick interested how the concentric was connected the other end.
Allways interested to hear what you guys think. Been in the industry for 40years now and still learning stuff.
Plasticiser will break down in the split concentric cable way before thermal damage occurs.
Rumour has it after pulling in that split con Nick invaded Poland
Ffs 😂
@@NBundyElectrical 😜
Nick great video as usual. When was it ok to cut the cables short in the DB? When I was trained back in the 80s 236 part 1&2 you had to leave enough so that cable could be re routed if required to and MCB in that board, social media seem to have lets make the inside of the board as pretty as we can, not as you said for future spark to make changes.
Great video 👍🏼
Another great video Nick
4 x 4mm earth's in the cable
They used to split the earth across 2 screw terminals in the old days.
Please tell me that the insulation inside the cavity wasn't Polystyrene !
What was the bill for all this good work?
Keeping it real !!
old jokes still / always funny ! 👊
Cable in the wall. Polystyrene beads will eat the PVC sheath.
Nicely done Sir Nick!
Is there any regs for making big holes in joists. I know its normal practice but is there ever a time when it compromise the joist?
Diameter should be no larger than 0.25 times the depth of the joist. Should only be drilled between 0.25 - 0.4 times the span of the joist
@@benpye2376 thanks!
We are in 2024. Anything less than cat 7a is a shot in the foot. As time goes on, the required speeds go up the cross talk in the unshielded pairs, which goes up and ruins the party
I disapprove of the 'ask permission' thing, the DNO do not ask permission. Why should we. You know we're working here, the power will go off when it goes off
split concentric is excellent
I said the same thing last time I was working down the local hospital. Miserable bastards never had me back...
@@travoltasbiplane1551 shame when the UPS/ Backup generators fail :( Better off out of the kind of outfit with no backup, so are the patients
Needs to be regs like other countries no fuseboards under stairs. Madness
I do enjoy your videos by the way and it's great to see how you do things. Keep it up 😊
Why, do yours catch fire a lot?
Did you get rid of all your Bosch Gear? Thought u got a sponsorship with them
So this cable can be installed through a wall like an swa but unlike standard meter tails 🤔 ive never used it before is it exceptable to use
as you have......
General rule of thumb for split concentric cable is to treat it like you would a twin and earth cable.
@@MrImATarget thanks alot good to know 👍
Might be a daft question but why use concentric? Never seen it used so :) great vids, just passed my am2s
Because it doesn’t need RCD protection upfront
That was going to be my question. As an industrial electrician I would have used armoured for that, thought that concentric was only used by supply companies, didn't even think it was readily available
@@johnwarwick4105 Most armoured *should* be fused when connected to the mains supply. Concentric having 25mm L&N doesn’t
@@AndyK.1
Why not?
It’s buried in a wall. It’s not mechanically protected. It could be damaged via a drill, nails, or similar. Requires 100ma Type S time delay RCD protection id say. Treated no differently to T/E.
@@DS1-1a Type S RCD doesn't provide shock protection, and this isn't a TT system.. so what's it for?
shout out to Pablo
Split concentric cabble is not part of bs7671 its ment for use by the DNO
Also you have got a non rcd protected cable burried in a wall with no mechanical protection only protective drive been the cut out fuse C2 ?
Why on earth did you not just use armoured
DNO use concentric cable .
@@simonmartin3433 dno do not follow bs7671
04:56 naughty 😂
What did I just watch yehaww 🤠
we all know someone who likes a good length 😂
In the US I have seen a single 10AWG Neutral with a bunch of 12Awg Hots for multiple circuits that share the single neutral.
im surprised bigger CU would break the balance for the customer
The tash looks a little unfortunate today?
lol tell me about it 😬😬
Nick, we know you are proud of your new beard. But the beard directly under your nose now looks a little like the Führer's in some camera angles. So please do not tell us you have been reinstalling since the early hours of the morning :)
Was the earth 16mm?
Yeah mate 👍
Good replacement for tails then
So what are the csa of the cores when terminated? Lives 25mm right?
Yes mate
Cheeky bit of concentric
Noice
Adams mum again 😂😅😊😂😅😊😊
Nick, you could use a reducing crimp on the green yellow cores.
Adolf stash 🤣🤣❤️❤️❤️
what's going on with the Hitler tash
Exactly my thoughts on the last video I couldn’t help but laugh all day
Make an L out of the end, then twist with the angle. That's the way I was taught
Hitler mustache 😳 😅😊😅
😭😭
Having an emergency light near the board is a great idea (putting it on another wall so that it actually lights the board!)
However a lot of newer units are now switching to Lithium batteries. I cannot help feeling that having a Lithium battery on permanent charge in a flimsy plastic container in the cupboard under the stairs is a serious fire risk........
Use a 16 mm pin crimp on the earth