When I do HDMI cables I run them in a conduit/trunking if possible so you can pull them in and out without ripping the wall apart If ever needed (something you can fit the preterminated ends through). HDMI cables can't be reterminated like CAT6/coax/speaker so if the ends ever get damaged or the AV specs need a better spec cable (high speed with ethernet etc) it's a much easier fix. HDMI cables used few years ago won't be up to the job of some of the new tech that's out these days so always good to allow for easy upgrade if ever needed. Yes it's extra work but if you're ripping apart today why not just add a simple feature like this so it's not a huge job in future 👍🏻 Top job as always 💪🏼
I fixed an hdmi plug once, it took me way too long and have never done it again, Cat 6E with HDMI extenders (extron) is the way forward, till you need cat 7 or never cables :-) it is never ending
100% agree, HDMI point to point kit over CAT6e is the way to go, it just means you have to allow for the TV end to have space for it so the TV can still mount flush to the wall. Don't get me started on the Samsung Frame TVs and their one connect cable/box 😅The connectors are chunky!
Your attention to detail is spot on- I’ve always said that if you get the preparation right then the rest will be perfect. Good job Nick. One thing though- please, please use the PPE, you know you should and you did go to the wholesaler, you could have picked some up then! You only get 2 eyes and they need to last. Looking forwards to seeing the rest of the rewire. PS - you haven’t got back to me about the EV charger 😢
For a row of boxes use a bit of 20mm plastic pipe cut to full length of what’s needed then slide the boxes on to the pipe, a bit of tape between helps with spacing them, fix them level and chuck a bit of muck in to start the patching up, when set use multitool to cut the pipe thats running through the boxes and wire
If you had read my other post COCKY CUNT , you would have read that i suggested black enamel couplers and brass bushes like other mature experienced sparks have, instead of FUKIN ABOUT with glue and plastic pipe . Your the ONLY MUPPET to have suggested a BRAINDEAD IDEA. NOW CRAWL BACK TO THE DOLE QUEUE WHERE YOU BELONG .@@davidcampbell4264
colleague's new house is like this, he thought i was taking the piss when i said he needed a 24 port patch panel and 16 port switch, minimum... now we're running out of ways... because he can't decide where the tv is going, LOL
and 3 double sockets behind BOTH potential tv positions will maybe not be adequate. My media/IT cupboard (bit above the CU) is well supplied with 4x double sockets LOL
You might be on to something! 20 years ago I modified black face plates to have phono sockets for my hifi and speakers and 20 years later you can now buy them ready made, though I think mine still look nicer :)
Videos like this make me feel like my industrial sparky job so much more. Fortunately is very rare to chase for conduits in brick walls in Sweden. I did a three story apartment building from 1640 many years ago and there’s no money that would make me do something like that again.
No wonder home owners drill onto cables that’s all I will say. Yes it may be in safe zone in the corner but how many home owners expect a random cable going up the corner teed up from the horizontal run with no indication at all that it is there. Madness. When I did my training back in the 80’s horizontal runs were legal but frowned upon if their routs weren’t obvious like ground corners.
Run CAT6 instead of HDMI and use a CAT5/6 to HDMI converter on each end. That way you can easily re terminate if needed and don't have to worry about the large connector.
You can get twin and quad two gang back boxes. They are standard back boxes that are joined to each other with the spacing to suit the standard overhang of the face plates. They com in both vertical and horizontal patterns from more than one manufacturer.
wouldn't really matter, not like someone is going to be drilling or screwing right next to the socket, it would have looked prettier for youtube its what it would have done
That’s awesome, defo would have used the joiners you can buy to link them, your chases are unreal man so neat. Also I think your over measuring with ure fingers, you said 10 inches but made your hands a gap of around 12 inches…. I believe 👀 😂😂😂
Could you not have used a length of 20mm PVC tube running through all 6 double boxes and fix back to wall and plaster. Now cut 20mm pipe out of socket boxes with small vibrating saw EASY
I have been sparking for 30 years and have never agreed with the "safe zones" . People nail cables when they are inline with sockets or switches . I went back to one this morning were a joiner had fixed a kitchen cupboard and gone through an appliance cable which was inline . No hope
I've chased a few chases well within safe zones, just to find out... Someone had chased the hallway of the house for ALL of the wires on the OPPOSITE side of the rooms. Diagonal wires, too. And some stitched a few times between the two adjacent rooms. Thank god for inline wago terminals. Those cables had NO Slack. Good thing I was chasing with a single blade....
Nick, looking good with the fixed spacing, definitely worth the effort! Also, if its getting a full skim, you can do your bonding coat flush with existing wall. Only if its being blended out does the bonding have to sit back a bit. (Before you waste loads of time 🙈)
Hiya mate just a note on the shed supply that’s having solar and batt storage … the AC side of that supply should only have 1% volt drop as to sync up with the grid …. Depending on the size of the solar might be worth looking at
Love watching your videos as electrics fascinate me big time, i'm an archtectural technologist and now i feel like swapping my mouse and office chair to be a sparky..? Courses seem relatively expensive but the end qualification would be worth while. What kinda time frame are we talkling to be fully qualified...?
25mm boxes!!! Let’s hope the customer doesn’t want USB sockets for 12k and with the chaser I would have thought 35mm boxes would be a given. You’re nearly as expensive as Jordan.😂😂
35mm all the way, gives a decent amount of space behind for enough cable slack so you can pull the socekt away a little more if replacing. Having used a chaser it's criminal to not to for 35mm back boxes!
Lovely thoughtful workmanship Nick 💪 i love your thinking when planning and foresight. smoothing those black conduit connectors down" - what brand were they ? that metabo is a beast .😲 and that vacuum is a Must !! Take care of yourself
10:53 for next time, galv conduit couplers are fully threaded, can put a short bush on either side of them. Does Greenhawk know you've nicked one of his mats 😁😁
Nick, love the work as always, but at some point you will come acropper plastering HDMI's into a wall, they do fail, I've had it personally and have never done it since. At a minimum run some 25mm flexible conduit (We normally use 40mm wherever possible/New Build) through the wall, chase it in, you can get ultra slim HDMIs that will pull through it relatively easily (Pick some up and test first), plus it means they can pull audio and ethernet through as well. I'd always advise running a HD-BaseT solution, but the budget isn't always there, but absolutely do make sure any conduit used is able to fish a replacement cable through.
Nick have you ever thought of fitting a media plate instead of all the individual box’s, with a media plate you’ve got 2x double sockets and 8x spaces for your data’s/tvs/sat/brush mods
I've a need for a similar thing but with outdoor boxes. A transformer box, 2 double socket boxes and a light weight box. Do you know of an IP rated box connector.
I found if you take 2 female bush and couplers, throw one coupler away, glue the bush into the conduit end with something like ct1 (once you put the bush though the box). Do this on one side for each box. Then use the remaining bush to screw the boxes together, once the bonded end is dry. No cutting, no faf.
MK do some multi-box combinations for some of their fancy media outlets. I'm not suggesting you use theirs, but they might be worth looking at to see how they do it. It looks like they have a galvanised steel plate running along behind them, with the boxes either riveted or spotwelded to it (not sure which). E.g. K14201 on page 212 of their catalogue no. 49 (which is a bit out of date, 2016 I think, as Honeywell seem to have not bothered updating it on the web). Not sure if you'd find that easier/quicker, but it's another way of doing it. Spot welding is pretty quick and easy if you have the tool, or pop rivets would work pretty well.
you should have bought a davis trunking with its fancy metal effect covers , yes it will not be wall paper friendly BUT people live those brushed finishes
I'd have probabaly used 3 x 2+2 backboxes. Granted they're 35mm deep but i think theyd have been easier to fit and there'd be less plastering/filling to do after.
... I'm confused why someone wouldn't just use a power bar... Like it's Very rare to see more than a single gang socket installed in North America... Sometimes you'll get a double gang socket in a kitchen or bathroom to avoid using outlet taps, power bars, etc., but literally anywhere else it's basically just single gang, and if you want to plug more things in you use a power bar. Are power bars not popular in the UK?
Once you had the boxes in place, remove the couplers and place a small piece of Lopez between each box allowing 1 rib entry into each box. Much lower profile.
Take a look at Spacer Connectors, some in 15mm and 35mm, simply clip into 20mm knockouts, no bushes or lock nuts! Much quicker and easier and quite reasonably priced too!
The metal boxes are galv coated so it's not an issue using galv couplers and brass bushes. you'll find them much more ridged too and I do them top and bottom holes to stop them twisting but it's overkill. Also tend to chase 30mm deep for 25mm boxes to make it easier to fit them. There is a product out on the market that just clips them together, forgot the brand but they're white and push fit.
@@dimitar4y If you were worried about that sink plastic PVC surface boxes into the wall. I've done that plenty of times on solid exterior walls, then you can just solvent weld them together with plastic couplers. Generally though galv metal couplers are thicker than the boxes so they'll get surface corrosion but last longer than the metal boxes. As conduit is classed for more extreme environments than back boxes.
I never understood why people never remove the carpet. Just unpin it, unroll it. Worst case if it doesn't stick as tight, get a basic tacker and tack any loose edges back down.
I would say that a media plate that has 2 double socket and 8 euro module spaces for the data Etc would be good here. The other two double sockets could go double stacked next to them to keep everything inline.
@@mfx1 Ideally CAT6e but the bend radius and terminations are chunky as well so 47mm back box is a must and still tight. Check out Kordz Pro slim CAT6e, top quality cable and a much smaller cable diameter than standard CAT6e 😉
Does cat6 support anything above 60hz@4k though ?....not being a dick, genuinely asking......if customer is using a console they'd probs need/want double that
@@rtorbs Technically no but you'll be pushing the limits of HDMI running that sort or resolution over any significant distance and you might be better off using SDI over coax.
@@mfx110ft for conventional which is more than enough length but I think all things considered, ever changing specs and what not a sleeved conduit approach that allows for cable swaps is the most future proof solution. 60hz is already out of date imo.....until cat7 I assume?
@@rtorbs pretty sure there are kits that can do 120hz@1080p but only 60hz@4k so yeah there is still a need for high spec HDMI cables depending on the requirements
Yer im sorry but gav couplers all the way.. maybe set the chase a little deeper if needed but iv never had an issue using the gav couplers when doing banks.
Look into Media plates most brand do them and if you need extra sockets just add two stacked up above besides it you dont end up with a massive row of faceplates and if youve a glass tv stand it doesnt stand out too much.
Squinties only work when watching people working, not when you are the worker. It is never worth the risk Man, keep a spare pair of glasses and mask in your glovebox. Great job.
22:20 oh shucks, and the irony. Two or three years ago I was climbing up a ladder onto the second floor and as my head crested the floor level the wind blew something right into my eye. Unfortunately I'm in the US with no healthcare so hundred percent out of pocket and the guy I was working for not even supposed to be doing construction but turned into two-story addition from Computer work and events but I digress. What was I going oh yeah I was wearing safety glasses and the and the way the object blew it blew around them and right into my eye and I fuck with it the whole day and I should've just went straight to the ER before my eye was scratched. I spent like most of the day trying to get it out with the eyewash stuff that was there and the sink in the kitchen sprayer.
There is a wee clip that effectively does what you tried to do there..I can’t remember the name of them off the top of my head but a company sent me some out a while back and I joined 3 double boxes together with them. When I remember the name I’ll let you know mate. Oh and if you ever need a hand with a rewire give me a shout I’d happily come down and do a day or two on one with you 👍🏻 I do quite a few one man rewires and know how much of a challenge they can be
Galv bush and coupler is fine. I have done it in plastic when wanting a small gap I just cut it a tap it takes seconds in a combo. I also die grind the hole oval shape and take the 25mm oval conduit in the box
Nick, I always enjoy watching you do chasing work. You work is always neat and well organized. I could see that group of back boxes was going to be a b@tch no matter how you approached it. Kudos to you for knocking it out of the park.
you can,or at least could,get unthreaded bushes that pushed into the unthreaded end of the adaptors to make a coupling, part number MK BMB2WHI might be the kiddy
Just watching this and saying what a load of work for end result. But I’m a sparky myself and I’d be exactly the same don’t do a job unless it’s like I’d do it in my house and point of that is I like to do the job and not have anyone coming behind me and saying what idiot done that 🙈. Keep up the great work. What about the solar on the van project?
Always run a spare Cat6 with your hdmi and leave in the back box just in case it gets broken You can use hdmi over cat6 Baluns,should the Hdmi get damaged they always do 🤦♂️
I hate to break it to you after all that effort, but galv couplers are the same kind of galv as galv backboxes - they wont react with the plaster. Sorry. Wired a shop recently with galv conduit drops to the boxes.
Nick I have some purpose built spacers they come split in two push em together then fit to back box they work a treat can’t remember what they are called but could have peek if you wanted and let ya know
I'd be interested in some domestic work to be honest if you ever need a dig out. I'm other side of Derby its a bit of a trek but interested. At min I'm on a job though once things drop off.
Been watching your content for years Nick, thanks for being awesome! 👍😉 Just wondering if you could do a video on bonding over your chases etc, please? Would be cool to see how you do it and maybe some tips etc?
Nick, not relevent to the content, did you get the emails from craig and myself.... And VERY good call on letting the neighbours know what is going on... we often get jobs that way to be honest.... they say 'it's really nice of you to explain thank you, do you have a card?'
@@NBundyElectrical sent via your site's webform, friend is looking for an apprenticeship, i know you probably are inundated, but just asked you to put feelers out if you know anyone :) that's all
When I do HDMI cables I run them in a conduit/trunking if possible so you can pull them in and out without ripping the wall apart If ever needed (something you can fit the preterminated ends through). HDMI cables can't be reterminated like CAT6/coax/speaker so if the ends ever get damaged or the AV specs need a better spec cable (high speed with ethernet etc) it's a much easier fix. HDMI cables used few years ago won't be up to the job of some of the new tech that's out these days so always good to allow for easy upgrade if ever needed. Yes it's extra work but if you're ripping apart today why not just add a simple feature like this so it's not a huge job in future 👍🏻
Top job as always 💪🏼
HDMI can be reterminated if you know what you're doing but it's not easy and it's better to run Cat6 with converters.
I fixed an hdmi plug once, it took me way too long and have never done it again, Cat 6E with HDMI extenders (extron) is the way forward, till you need cat 7 or never cables :-) it is never ending
100% agree, HDMI point to point kit over CAT6e is the way to go, it just means you have to allow for the TV end to have space for it so the TV can still mount flush to the wall. Don't get me started on the Samsung Frame TVs and their one connect cable/box 😅The connectors are chunky!
Your attention to detail is spot on- I’ve always said that if you get the preparation right then the rest will be perfect. Good job Nick. One thing though- please, please use the PPE, you know you should and you did go to the wholesaler, you could have picked some up then! You only get 2 eyes and they need to last.
Looking forwards to seeing the rest of the rewire.
PS - you haven’t got back to me about the EV charger 😢
For a row of boxes use a bit of 20mm plastic pipe cut to full length of what’s needed then slide the boxes on to the pipe, a bit of tape between helps with spacing them, fix them level and chuck a bit of muck in to start the patching up, when set use multitool to cut the pipe thats running through the boxes and wire
Unnecessary complicated way of doing a simple job and using “ A BIT OF TAPE” as a spacer is B grade LEVEL !!
@@Fozzie68if sliding boxes onto a bit of pipe is to complicated for you best stick to being a painter
If you had read my other post COCKY CUNT , you would have read that i suggested black enamel couplers and brass bushes like other mature experienced sparks have, instead of FUKIN ABOUT with glue and plastic pipe . Your the ONLY MUPPET to have suggested a BRAINDEAD IDEA. NOW CRAWL BACK TO THE DOLE QUEUE WHERE YOU BELONG .@@davidcampbell4264
When the customer has: TV, Soundbar, digibox, DVD, VHS, SKY, VIRGIN... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
colleague's new house is like this, he thought i was taking the piss when i said he needed a 24 port patch panel and 16 port switch, minimum... now we're running out of ways... because he can't decide where the tv is going, LOL
and 3 double sockets behind BOTH potential tv positions will maybe not be adequate. My media/IT cupboard (bit above the CU) is well supplied with 4x double sockets LOL
You might be on to something! 20 years ago I modified black face plates to have phono sockets for my hifi and speakers and 20 years later you can now buy them ready made, though I think mine still look nicer :)
Videos like this make me feel like my industrial sparky job so much more.
Fortunately is very rare to chase for conduits in brick walls in Sweden. I did a three story apartment building from 1640 many years ago and there’s no money that would make me do something like that again.
what was the issue? Just the dust?
@@dimitar4y the entire process is a killer of a sane persons will to live
No wonder home owners drill onto cables that’s all I will say. Yes it may be in safe zone in the corner but how many home owners expect a random cable going up the corner teed up from the horizontal run with no indication at all that it is there. Madness. When I did my training back in the 80’s horizontal runs were legal but frowned upon if their routs weren’t obvious like ground corners.
Run CAT6 instead of HDMI and use a CAT5/6 to HDMI converter on each end. That way you can easily re terminate if needed and don't have to worry about the large connector.
The safest place for that LG TV is in the back of your van, but don't tell the homeowner!! 😂
I'll check his van before he leaves :-)
😂😂😂
You can get twin and quad two gang back boxes. They are standard back boxes that are joined to each other with the spacing to suit the standard overhang of the face plates. They com in both vertical and horizontal patterns from more than one manufacturer.
Nick could you not have used bushes and galv couplers...the back boxes are metal anyway? Genuine question not a criticism
Yeah that’s what I normally do mate
wouldn't really matter, not like someone is going to be drilling or screwing right next to the socket, it would have looked prettier for youtube its what it would have done
Came in to ask the question too. Why does it react?
Love a galv coupler and bush, so useful
Bellmouth bushes and stubs of tube?
Would a media plate not be a better idea? Two double sockets and two double gang modules for network/video
That’s awesome, defo would have used the joiners you can buy to link them, your chases are unreal man so neat.
Also I think your over measuring with ure fingers, you said 10 inches but made your hands a gap of around 12 inches…. I believe 👀 😂😂😂
Could you not have used a length of 20mm PVC tube running through all 6 double boxes and fix back to wall and plaster. Now cut 20mm pipe out of socket boxes with small vibrating saw
EASY
I have been sparking for 30 years and have never agreed with the "safe zones" . People nail cables when they are inline with sockets or switches . I went back to one this morning were a joiner had fixed a kitchen cupboard and gone through an appliance cable which was inline . No hope
the only people that know where safe zones are are electricians.
I've chased a few chases well within safe zones, just to find out... Someone had chased the hallway of the house for ALL of the wires on the OPPOSITE side of the rooms. Diagonal wires, too. And some stitched a few times between the two adjacent rooms. Thank god for inline wago terminals. Those cables had NO Slack. Good thing I was chasing with a single blade....
Nick, looking good with the fixed spacing, definitely worth the effort! Also, if its getting a full skim, you can do your bonding coat flush with existing wall. Only if its being blended out does the bonding have to sit back a bit. (Before you waste loads of time 🙈)
Hiya mate just a note on the shed supply that’s having solar and batt storage … the AC side of that supply should only have 1% volt drop as to sync up with the grid …. Depending on the size of the solar might be worth looking at
Why did that chain of back boxes remind me of the human centipede where you saying feed her feed her while putting the cables through? hahaha
Love watching your videos as electrics fascinate me big time, i'm an archtectural technologist and now i feel like swapping my mouse and office chair to be a sparky..? Courses seem relatively expensive but the end qualification would be worth while. What kinda time frame are we talkling to be fully qualified...?
Looking good 😀 One small point, 00:56 NO, PLEASE Carbon monoxide is CO, NOT CO2 There is one heck of a difference
One oxygen of a difference
@@Monkeh616 one quick unnoticed death of a difference, actually
@@dimitar4y The internet, where humour goes to die.
Metal couplers and bushes should be alright mate, only like your back boxes being metal. Great video as always
25mm boxes!!! Let’s hope the customer doesn’t want USB sockets for 12k and with the chaser I would have thought 35mm boxes would be a given. You’re nearly as expensive as Jordan.😂😂
You realise most new usb sockets fit on 25mm boxes?
35mm all the way, gives a decent amount of space behind for enough cable slack so you can pull the socekt away a little more if replacing. Having used a chaser it's criminal to not to for 35mm back boxes!
Lovely thoughtful workmanship Nick 💪
i love your thinking when planning and foresight.
smoothing those black conduit connectors down" - what brand were they ?
that metabo is a beast .😲
and that vacuum is a Must !!
Take care of yourself
How comes when you guys drill into breeze block your bits never hit a a hard bit of grit that makes the hole go offline?
What makes the couplers react? Are the boxes not the same?
Metal couplers and bushes are the way to go, or try this sc235 35mm, spacer for connecting electrical ctrical back boxes
10:53 for next time, galv conduit couplers are fully threaded, can put a short bush on either side of them. Does Greenhawk know you've nicked one of his mats 😁😁
How much better would that have been with media plate?
Nick, love the work as always, but at some point you will come acropper plastering HDMI's into a wall, they do fail, I've had it personally and have never done it since. At a minimum run some 25mm flexible conduit (We normally use 40mm wherever possible/New Build) through the wall, chase it in, you can get ultra slim HDMIs that will pull through it relatively easily (Pick some up and test first), plus it means they can pull audio and ethernet through as well.
I'd always advise running a HD-BaseT solution, but the budget isn't always there, but absolutely do make sure any conduit used is able to fish a replacement cable through.
Not sure if it was showed off in this video mate, but in a coming up video, I did run a cat 6 cable with the HDMI as a backup 👍
@@NBundyElectricalmega nice one 👍
The tools you use need to be added to the videos with affiliated links. Bloody clean cuts, mine were terrible as a novice with a chisel :D
I always use fiber optic hdmi cable which usually have smaller moulding and can get into 25mm oval conduit and into back box knockouts
Nick have you ever thought of fitting a media plate instead of all the individual box’s, with a media plate you’ve got 2x double sockets and 8x spaces for your data’s/tvs/sat/brush mods
Good stuff Nick! Ah, yes. It feels so long ago since we've heard "you good job" with "little" Ad. Cheers
There's a thing called Space connect , as far as I remember, comes in 17 & 35 mm for exactly what you are doing.
SPACER CONNECT UK
SC235 35mm Spacer Connector for connecting electrical back boxes 10 Pack
SC235/10
£7.14
I've a need for a similar thing but with outdoor boxes.
A transformer box, 2 double socket boxes and a light weight box.
Do you know of an IP rated box connector.
Yeah used them a few times defiantly worth having in your kit they also space the boxes correctly for the faceplates
I’m gob smacked don’t think there’s one level socket in my gaff they didn’t seem to have a spirit level 🤣😂your attention to detail is second to none
I found if you take 2 female bush and couplers, throw one coupler away, glue the bush into the conduit end with something like ct1 (once you put the bush though the box). Do this on one side for each box.
Then use the remaining bush to screw the boxes together, once the bonded end is dry.
No cutting, no faf.
Have you seen the dual socket and modular combi plates? Maybe next time?
MK do some multi-box combinations for some of their fancy media outlets. I'm not suggesting you use theirs, but they might be worth looking at to see how they do it. It looks like they have a galvanised steel plate running along behind them, with the boxes either riveted or spotwelded to it (not sure which). E.g. K14201 on page 212 of their catalogue no. 49 (which is a bit out of date, 2016 I think, as Honeywell seem to have not bothered updating it on the web).
Not sure if you'd find that easier/quicker, but it's another way of doing it. Spot welding is pretty quick and easy if you have the tool, or pop rivets would work pretty well.
you should have bought a davis trunking with its fancy metal effect covers , yes it will not be wall paper friendly BUT people live those brushed finishes
19:23 welp, I'm doing that next corner chase I do.
I've always wondered why they never produced a plastic threaded coupler. Surely it must have been asked before. Rediculous
MK do a 4 Gang 47mm back box
Part Number: 854ZIC. Which is good for sockets behind a TV👍
Bro won the best client lottery haha Sticky notes are a nice touch
Screwfix and others do these combination boxes that would of been ideal for all those sockets and media outlets.
I'd have probabaly used 3 x 2+2 backboxes. Granted they're 35mm deep but i think theyd have been easier to fit and there'd be less plastering/filling to do after.
... I'm confused why someone wouldn't just use a power bar... Like it's Very rare to see more than a single gang socket installed in North America... Sometimes you'll get a double gang socket in a kitchen or bathroom to avoid using outlet taps, power bars, etc., but literally anywhere else it's basically just single gang, and if you want to plug more things in you use a power bar. Are power bars not popular in the UK?
Once you had the boxes in place, remove the couplers and place a small piece of Lopez between each box allowing 1 rib entry into each box. Much lower profile.
Take a look at Spacer Connectors, some in 15mm and 35mm, simply clip into 20mm knockouts, no bushes or lock nuts! Much quicker and easier and quite reasonably priced too!
The metal boxes are galv coated so it's not an issue using galv couplers and brass bushes. you'll find them much more ridged too and I do them top and bottom holes to stop them twisting but it's overkill. Also tend to chase 30mm deep for 25mm boxes to make it easier to fit them. There is a product out on the market that just clips them together, forgot the brand but they're white and push fit.
i've seen plenty of galv metal boxes corrode to shit so he's got a point, especially on exterior walls. ESPECIALLY on exterior walls.
@@dimitar4y If you were worried about that sink plastic PVC surface boxes into the wall. I've done that plenty of times on solid exterior walls, then you can just solvent weld them together with plastic couplers.
Generally though galv metal couplers are thicker than the boxes so they'll get surface corrosion but last longer than the metal boxes. As conduit is classed for more extreme environments than back boxes.
So what's your plan to change an industry standard?@@dimitar4y
I never understood why people never remove the carpet. Just unpin it, unroll it. Worst case if it doesn't stick as tight, get a basic tacker and tack any loose edges back down.
I would say that a media plate that has 2 double socket and 8 euro module spaces for the data Etc would be good here. The other two double sockets could go double stacked next to them to keep everything inline.
Love your honesty Nick in our ever ongoing problems in the electric world 👍
Look after your eyes. You only get two and there are no spares avaliable.
Running HDMI through walls is a really bad idea, run Cat6 and use converters at each end.
@@mfx1 Ideally CAT6e but the bend radius and terminations are chunky as well so 47mm back box is a must and still tight. Check out Kordz Pro slim CAT6e, top quality cable and a much smaller cable diameter than standard CAT6e 😉
Does cat6 support anything above 60hz@4k though ?....not being a dick, genuinely asking......if customer is using a console they'd probs need/want double that
@@rtorbs Technically no but you'll be pushing the limits of HDMI running that sort or resolution over any significant distance and you might be better off using SDI over coax.
@@mfx110ft for conventional which is more than enough length but I think all things considered, ever changing specs and what not a sleeved conduit approach that allows for cable swaps is the most future proof solution. 60hz is already out of date imo.....until cat7 I assume?
@@rtorbs pretty sure there are kits that can do 120hz@1080p but only 60hz@4k so yeah there is still a need for high spec HDMI cables depending on the requirements
Looks nice. I would be a bit concerned with the chase for all the boxes taking quite a lot of strength out of the wall
SC235 35mm Spacer Connector for connecting electrical back boxes 10 Pack
SC235/10 arrow electrical
Yer im sorry but gav couplers all the way.. maybe set the chase a little deeper if needed but iv never had an issue using the gav couplers when doing banks.
Look into Media plates most brand do them and if you need extra sockets just add two stacked up above besides it you dont end up with a massive row of faceplates and if youve a glass tv stand it doesnt stand out too much.
Who is that handsome devil on my screen with a tasteful beard? Oh its Nick! 😂❤
Squinties only work when watching people working, not when you are the worker. It is never worth the risk Man, keep a spare pair of glasses and mask in your glovebox. Great job.
22:20 oh shucks, and the irony. Two or three years ago I was climbing up a ladder onto the second floor and as my head crested the floor level the wind blew something right into my eye. Unfortunately I'm in the US with no healthcare so hundred percent out of pocket and the guy I was working for not even supposed to be doing construction but turned into two-story addition from Computer work and events but I digress. What was I going oh yeah I was wearing safety glasses and the and the way the object blew it blew around them and right into my eye and I fuck with it the whole day and I should've just went straight to the ER before my eye was scratched. I spent like most of the day trying to get it out with the eyewash stuff that was there and the sink in the kitchen sprayer.
There is a wee clip that effectively does what you tried to do there..I can’t remember the name of them off the top of my head but a company sent me some out a while back and I joined 3 double boxes together with them. When I remember the name I’ll let you know mate.
Oh and if you ever need a hand with a rewire give me a shout I’d happily come down and do a day or two on one with you 👍🏻 I do quite a few one man rewires and know how much of a challenge they can be
Galv bush and coupler is fine. I have done it in plastic when wanting a small gap I just cut it a tap it takes seconds in a combo. I also die grind the hole oval shape and take the 25mm oval conduit in the box
Why not sink the boxes in a further 5mm to help with plastering?
If you are doing it again, a male or female adaptor and a bell mouth bush with a bit of glue will keep the gaps nice and it’s quick
Try that with high newton concrete block....and swearing will become easier 😮
Nick, I always enjoy watching you do chasing work. You work is always neat and well organized. I could see that group of back boxes was going to be a b@tch no matter how you approached it. Kudos to you for knocking it out of the park.
Appleby SB604 back box connectors 70 pence
Excellent, I've seen these whilst pulling out some backboxes in a garage. I just didn't bother looking into what they were called. 👊
Hi Nick… Really tidy job as per usual … What an amount of work doing it all yourself 🙈Sockets all in a line look super tidy.
Hi Nick
I use space connect adapters which are excellent far better than the conduit adapters they literally clip in place and plaster in very well
This link is for backbox couplers 35mm spacing
/sc235-35mm-spacer-connector-for-connecting-electrical-back-boxes-10-pack/
you can,or at least could,get unthreaded bushes that pushed into the unthreaded end of the adaptors to make a coupling, part number MK BMB2WHI might be the kiddy
Just watching this and saying what a load of work for end result. But I’m a sparky myself and I’d be exactly the same don’t do a job unless it’s like I’d do it in my house and point of that is I like to do the job and not have anyone coming behind me and saying what idiot done that 🙈. Keep up the great work. What about the solar on the van project?
You mean you do your own house properly….
@@affy675 definitely 👌
Always run a spare Cat6 with your hdmi and leave in the back box just in case it gets broken
You can use hdmi over cat6 Baluns,should the Hdmi get damaged they always do 🤦♂️
I hate to break it to you after all that effort, but galv couplers are the same kind of galv as galv backboxes - they wont react with the plaster. Sorry. Wired a shop recently with galv conduit drops to the boxes.
you could have chased across within 150mm of the ceiling ...
@nickbundy I would have prob suggested a media wall plate.
Might have done hdmi over cat6 too 👍
Nick use Spacer connect for the back boxes
Still using 25mm boxes 🙈
Nick I have some purpose built spacers they come split in two push em together then fit to back box they work a treat can’t remember what they are called but could have peek if you wanted and let ya know
really interesting to watch looking for clues to see what we need in our property great content
Looks gash, id have double stacked the sockets, or fitted an actual media box
Nah, double stack or them massive panels they put in flats look poo poo. The way Nicks done it is way better!
Nice to see you back on form!
I'd be interested in some domestic work to be honest if you ever need a dig out. I'm other side of Derby its a bit of a trek but interested. At min I'm on a job though once things drop off.
Crewe is a lovely place, nice job on the house mate
What about dado trunking it will take data & power may be a better alternative
Why not just use a media plate?
I guess you haven't seen the 'bell mouth bushes' that are available, they glue into couplars
nick instead of running hdmi cable run a cat6 and can uses hdmi adaptors on the end of them
Been watching your content for years Nick, thanks for being awesome! 👍😉 Just wondering if you could do a video on bonding over your chases etc, please? Would be cool to see how you do it and maybe some tips etc?
Hello nick please what type of electric chaser is that
niiiiiiiiiiiiiiick. we have missed you
Nick, not relevent to the content, did you get the emails from craig and myself....
And VERY good call on letting the neighbours know what is going on... we often get jobs that way to be honest.... they say 'it's really nice of you to explain thank you, do you have a card?'
DO not make your customer's neighbours an enemy, neither will thank you
What emails bud?
@@NBundyElectrical sent via your site's webform, friend is looking for an apprenticeship, i know you probably are inundated, but just asked you to put feelers out if you know anyone :) that's all
Media plate would of worked well there.
Bring everything to one double box and stick a brush outlet plate on it is what I do
Spacers from arrow electrical are pretty good and perfect every time
Search for Arrow Electrical then sc115 or sc35 this should bring up the spacers i absolutely love em just like your vids mate 👍
Lovely neat job, Nick 👍
You're great, lovely work!
16mm armoured, good call