I'd imagine working with Jordan as your boss would be cool. I've worked with people before who would shout at you for not knowing the correct cable size or amps you never learn with people like that. Where as Jordan is very supportive and spends alot of time with his engineers. Class.
the way houses are installed are so weird and complicated... the way we doing electric installations in the netherlands are much more simple and easyer for maintenance. No rings, just 16 amps breakers which disconnect phase and neutral. Normally every room has a junctionbox in the ceiling were incoming power is split to sockets, lightswitches and other lightpoints. Wiring is standard through pvc pipes so mostly wires are replaceble too.
As Lewis T. says; it seems the neutral is fused. Far more noteworthy than fussing over excess cabling in the C.U. If I'm doing a board change I'm very grateful that the previous electrician didn't shorten the cables just to make it look neat.
As a plumber I've seen that shower fault more times then care to remember, and yes if there's a melted block within the shower the pull cord is normally gone also 🥴
Brilliant to see a seasoned spark taking the time to help and teach someone properly and with patience like this. Absolutely beautiful. Without help like this, nobody would ever learn.
I few years back I (stupidly) took a job at a fertiliser plant on immingham docks as a maintenance spark, and all the electrics looked like that, and it was impossible to get any time to even begin to even investigate anything, let alone sort anything out due to them not wanting any machine down time. Thank god I don't work there any more, how it hasn't gone up in flames is beyond me.
18:50 Re. finding a break, if you know there is nothing connected to the circuit, measuring capacitance to earth of each side can give an indication of distance to the break - lower capacitance = shorter distance.
I'd just disconnect the lives one at a time from the MCB and power up to show up whats on each side, for extra points do some loop impedance tests between L-N each side to find out which is the furthest point on each side of the break (L-N rather than L-E as the high current test is much more accurate than the non-trip range , and for greater accuracy you could take the matching N out of the board as well and not have issues with parallel pats etc). If you then have a leg between two sockets in different parts of the building thats open that appears to have nothing in between, the capactance idea could be useful, but maybe not as useful as one of the cable toners that the telecom guys use :)
if I had to choose between being an electrician and a plumber, I would defo choose being a plumber. As it's a lot harder to drown yourself when working in someone's house.
I don’t live in the EMEA region, I hate everything about electricity and plumbing, however, a big fan and subscriber of your channel. Hopefully I don’t speak for all, but what I want is a payoff video. You always showcase all of the old dangerous consumer units, spaghetti and crappy work, and incoming 50 year old power. What I want is a complete video from start to finish showcasing old work and new replacement work from Artisan! 👍🏻
We can’t often do that in one video so you usually see the initial inspection and then we come back and fix it another day and do a separate video on that but maybe we can try and do a montage of the whole lot before and after one time
I worked as a telecom engineer out in the field for 25yrs😁. Loved the job😁, Just the BS got to me 😏, oh 😠& idiot managers😠😠. Anyways🤔, ladders are safe when used correctly, & using the right ladders/steps for the task in hand, also common sence 😁🇬🇧🇬🇧
did you notice the fused Neutral on the old metal switch? Good point regarding the adapter plug/socket. I love the Bosch Go 2 screwdriver, always use it, except on a chrome accessory. You're correct that you shouldn't repair faults on an EICR, my tutor taught me this on my recent 2391 course, you should only have your inspectors hat on(but if it's a simple fault we will do it there and then, same as everyone else!) Well done Luke. Good video!!!
seems like he didn't even no what he was looking at....possiblky the biggest defect on this installation and the most interesting talking point for a video yet it seems like he didn't even notice
I really like the way everyone is part of the conversation, talking their way through the problem and solving it as a team, there's no room for ego and compaicency when it comes to lektrix, Never afraid to to check the rules and regs either, 👍
What I don't understand is why on step ladders they have usable steps above the last step you should use? Above the last 'proper' step they should put thin metal bracers that won't take any weight, then they wouldn't need to have stickers saying not to step higher. Eejits.
the reason I expect is that the steps provide structural rigidity to the steps and a unit and a metal bracer would not. the small ladder shown is a waste of time if you can only use the bottom step.
Watching these makes me appreciate our North American style panelboards. So much more room to work with. Also, the electrical code requires a 30" working width and 36" of clear space in front of the panelboard (more space required for higher voltages). Maximum circuit breaker handle height is 6'-7". These rules are to provide a safe working environment for the electrician. Different country, so different rules for sure.
most of the European countries have similar regulations regarding placement and accessibility of the boards. We've also got regulations about keeping all the electrics together, so you cannot have the main breaker in one place and the rest of breakers in a different place. But the UK apparently have some archaic regulations that are completely out of touch, especially since things like 35 A circuits in an ordinary house without any kind of RCD is completely bonkers. In the rest Europe we split the circuits if you need that much power and it's extremely rare to see an installation that allows more than 60 A per phase
As a long retired electrician brought up on 11th edition, I almost fell about laughing when I saw the BILL Double pole switch fuse being used in such a manner. This component should have been in a museum or a skip many years ago.
I had a dodgy wall socket in the bedroom that would fail/work if you lightly touched it. Eventually I decided I'd replace it, assuming a bad switch or socket. I undid the mounting screws and the entire thing fell off. Not one of the wires was screwed in. Not just loose, not screwed in at all. The grub screws were all the way out as far as they could go. The only thing making it work was the way the thick copper wiring was splayed outwards, just its spring pressure holding against the wiring holes. It'd been like that for 20 years (since the house was built). To make matters worse, the wall socket wiring also lead to a wall mounted 500 watt bar radiator in the same room, and another one in the bathroom (one thing daisy chained to another). Professional installation, my foot!
@@evanfpv I'm an electronics engineer, not an electrician. I wouldn't lay cables around a house, but replacing a socket is child's play. I couldn't possibly make it any worse than it already was.
@@CameraTim-DAMMITDOTcom So you arent a qualified electrician?! Your comment means nothing to approved electricians like me who went to college for 4 years then passed there testing and Inspection. Cheers
@@adamsharp201 Really, which bit don't you like? That I can criticise the electrician involved in building the house in 1965 for doing a shite job? Which they did. I could list a few other things, too: The fuseboard that looks like an 11 year old did it, with a tangle of wires all around each other. The electrician who lost the screws holding the fuseboard in place and didn't replace them. The electrician who routed wires behind the hinging bar behind the fuseboard so they're pinched against the metal cabinet. All the powerpoints for the entire house on one 16 amp fuse. All the lights for the entire house on one 8 amp fuse. Each only having just one lead out each from the fuseboard, daisy chaining around the house, so you couldn't possibly separate parts of the house onto individual breakers without removing most of the roof and floorboards. A foot of several joined lighting wiring twisted around themselves in a corkscrew above a light socket that's also the junction point for many more light fittings (it rubbed through some of its insulation and started to smoke). Lighting cable that went over (instead of under) a roof rafter and was squashed between the wooden beam and the corrugated iron roof (which was later pierced by the contractors installing solar panels who put a bolt right through the middle of it, and never bothered to check all the power was working before they left). That as an electronics engineer and diagnostic fault finding serviceman of over 30 years I'm more than capable of doing the childishly simple job of fitting a wall socket without fouling it up in the most basic way (not screwing in the wires)? (Something that's much easier than fitting a plug on an appliance cable, actually. Solid copper is easier to get into a wall plate screw terminals than stranded wire into a plug, and has far more space to work in than a plug.) I work on equipment far more complex than house wiring, and I don't make the balls-up of it that the so-called electrician did wiring our house up. I can't even imagine an apprentice electrician doing the job as bad as our house's wiring.
I suspect a lot of DIY electrical work (and replacing a socket isn't even notifiable) stems from industry professionals doing bad work. Some sparkies are meticulous and some are very rough and ready in their approach. Recently found several sockets and several metal lights in a relative's house (cables in conduit) had not been earthed because the installer (and I still have the paperwork) apparently forgot to pull an earth cable to connect back to the main earth terminal. There was some green/yellow wire but not all the way. Obviously some would say I should leave it to the professionals. Sadly, some professionals aren't worthy of the name. The good ones are always very busy and don't need to rely on job protectionism to get business, so it's not like if I pull a few earth cables I'm putting anyond out of a job.
Call out the boss on safety? Too bloody right, lives have been lost on the track, in the air and in hospitals where youngsters have been afraid to challenge the gaffer who’s done the job for 30 years.
21:00 if you've already got the socket off, why not just replace it there & then instead of leaving a potentially dangerous situation - surely you keep a few sockets on the van..?
This board is nothing, I have seen worse 2:04 installation carried out by an inspector, I don't know haw to add photos here but I can tell you it's hot stuff
with open circuit rings, i tend to short the faulty wire to another at the CU, then go round with the megger and find at what point that link disappears, that gives you a decent indication of where the break might be
You’re saying the extension block is rated for 13 amps and the connected load exceeds that. But is a double socket also not rated for 13amp? So how is that a solution?
That shower connection,or lack of connection,is just downright piss poor,I can't believe someone would be so negligent,with a device that draws as much current as a shower, it's rubbish like that,that will burn someone's house down & land you in the Coroner's Court to answer some pretty serious questions,SMH😡🤬
Interesting, entertaining and disturbing, since nothing was staged for the camera. It made me think about what I have in my home. The changes have been few since we moved in. The showers are 24 volts, transformer-isolated pump only, low-power units.
That does seem pretty bad for a consumer panel. I just started as an industrial electrician in a large factory. Imagine a panel 10x that size with wires going everywhere. Prints will be missing or just plain wrong. Part of the job is just finding where everything goes. It is a skill to be sure.
Looks like fairly typical general builder (i.e. cheap/cowboy) electrical work, particularly the sockets which have been plastered and painted over and never worked with neatly (that's a personal gripe of mine, including door furniture). Cables falling out of sockets appears to be a common issue with these kind of situations too. Can't count the number of sockets that I've fixed just by screwing the cables into the terminals properly.
Here's a question, we have Torque settings for the connections in CUs and on MCBs and RCBOs etc, but are there any Torque settings for Sockets and Showers and CCUs etc....?
Wow can’t believe how many issues/dangers you find on an eicr, very scary and makes me think about the electrics in my house and if I need to get one done. I’ll bet so many people put this off thinking oh it’s working fine so don’t need one. 😳
Hi Jordan, you were also quoted recently in an article in the IET engineering and technology magazine incase you diddnt know. You know you have made it when you appear in a professional magazine 👍
Having only ever seen ring circuits in electrical substations here in Australia it always suprises me to see it commonly used in the UK. I guess that is why you need to have a separate fuse for pretty much everything.
That is the main reason for the fused plug, yes. Rings are fine until someone fiddles with them, which is all too common - a broken ring is very dangerous, as is the wiring of spurs onto spurs without a fused connection unit.
I've never heard of a heated shower before... I don't know if this is common in England, or if it's just something I've never heard of. I live in the US, and my shower is heated by the water heater.
It’s a mix of both here in the UK. More often than not it’s a mixer shower (not electric in any way) with hot and cold water feeds, but many places have electric showers that only require a cold water feed. Those only needing a cold water feed have punchy heating element within that provides instantaneous hot water.
1) I don't expect the adaptor to burst into flames below the non-fusing current of a 13-amp fuse (and 16 amps is well below that), at least not if it's properly made. The way it hangs off the socket does look dodgy though. 2) Unless the plug was old enough to have solid brass pins (unsleeved) I can't really see how a damp card could cause any issues. Efixxx recently showed a picture of a charred one though, overheated plug in a dodgy socket. 3) Why would you put the connection from the socket circuit to the light down as a limitation rather than "further investigation"?
2 does prevent the socket being fully inserted though. Which MIGHT not allow so good a connection. They shouldn't sell goods with those paper cards fitted if the plug's already fitted if you're supposed to remove before use. IMO.
@@johnbull5394 True, although I wonder how much of a difference that piece of card makes. In Schuko countries people use child-proof shutters fixed into the sockets with double-sided sticky tape, shutters that are much thicker than those cards, and I haven't heard of any fires caused by these, even though they don't conform to the regs and I've replaced dozens of them with proper shuttered sockets.
There's been quite a few comments about what heat is being generated by the mass of wires in the consumer unit, I have a thermal camera for plumbing work but it can be used of course for electrical work. It would be interesting to see if there is really a difference between a neat board and a overflowing board like that one.
I would love to know that too... I do have a tiny camera on a long probe (Doctor-style) that I would have used to check for insulation material in that roof cavity at 09:17 where the cables went but I don't have a thermal camera. :-(
Crazy how you guys have your breaker panels so high you need a ladder to access them. How about lowering them to chest height. That would make life easier.
Interesting as always! Also, I think there should be a (legal) movement in actually identifying the installer and making an official report mandatory since it's gonna come down to some serious house fire one day.. probably not the only install that individual has done init haha
the installer might have done a really neat job of it, and then the cowboys come along over the years with maintainance and adding circuits in and messing it all up, especially DIYers. its hard to put the installers name to stuff like this unless its a new install...
@@jamieisbadiof6106 true, but that then has to be investigated. Property owner knows best who’s been in and out to perform changes to the installation. Thereby, but of course also can be tampered with, you can apply seal stickers on the appliance as I saw Jordan do one on a new CU to have at least some sort of indication someone’s been in after you
@@wolflouis_official We do issue certs, either EICs (Electrical Installation Certificates (complete with Circuit Information and Test Results) on new circuit installations and MEIWC Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate,so the householder should keep these with the house files for future reference, and pass them on when selling a house!
Mine is prob worse tbh - consumer unit is prob 80 yrs old - ivory fuses etc. Thanks for the walkthrough /tips - I’ll put it on the list of things to do
Here's a tip for shower pull cords. Get the round type ones, last far longer and don't melt as often. If it's a new install use the mount of the new pull cord , on a solid grounds mark your cable entry holes and drill out. Bring your feed and switch wire cables through the holes as they will terminate into the terminals.
Having an electrical appliance connected to a circuit with massive current delivery capabilities in my shower is not something I want. Good thing you guys have RCDs in the UK, be the very thought of it still make me feel uneasy.
I agree re dishwasher and washing machine splitter - would put in a double socket asap, but realistically both appliances are unlikely to draw their maximum current for long or at the same time as eachother (ie apply diversity). My kettle is 3000kw but has a 0.75mm2 flex. Would you C3 or C2 that?
One thing I couldn't see in the video was whether the 2-way adapter was FUSED or not. Best practice says that you should only use fused adapters as they only plug into one socket - hence fusing the load at 13A max.
@@herrtomas6729 usually the two-way ones aren't fused (the one used wasn't fused) but three-ways are. Doesn't make sense really! It comes down to user common sense.
@@herrtomas6729 but if they meet BS1363 they are approved for use in home or workplace. I'm not saying they're always a good idea but BS1363 is the agreed standard. I use one to plug in two desk lamps - that shouldn't fail a PAT but if it was two kettles it should.
Agreed, but if users’ common sense (or understanding) cannot be trusted….. Therefore this local policy was adopted. (As well as the one which prohibited the use of untested personal equipment on the business supply… multiple fan heaters in winter, toasters in places they shouldn’t be - once had a trapped slice in unattended toaster set off fire alarm and cause factory evacuation!)
That shower connector reminded me of the isolator/shutoff switch for one of my student digs. The switch one day just started smouldering and smoking and filled the hallway with acrid smoke. Landlord put a new switch on himself, despite not being an electrician... Not to mention that this house had 4 (FOUR) electric showers on a single 100A phase main. You can do the maths...
I work in ex Local Authority buildings. By those standards that's a neat board. Don't get me wrong, it's not ideal - but it seems very common in my environment. The main issue it poses for me is making any kind of testing borderline impossible. Trying to dig out conductors from an RCBO in a packed out 3 phase board to do some end to ends is impossible.
You should test ring at board as you have to check at each socket when you do r1+rn and r1 + r2 test otherwise test is not completed correctly and you cannot guarantee ring continuity when you reconnect socket It will give you good idea of the state of circuit but not correctly perform to niceic standards But they are happy if you tick box’s and leave in dodgy condition
I’m just learning about IR, I get the removal of devices and usb sockets. I am I correct with fused spurs to just make sure they are turned off the switch and you don’t have to take it off and disconnect the load?
@@jayc1140 I think they were banned in the 1950's, and have to be removed if seen from the mid 2010's. They were banned as if the neutral fuse fails, it will look like the power has failed, but all components will still be at 230v with reference to ground. Any investigation could lead to a shock/death.
10 mm² section wires are €4.80 per meter for 3 wires here in France. 1.5 mm² is €0.54, also for 3 wires, 9 times cheaper. It's the minimum section we can use, I use it only for lighting, although we can theoretically use it also for outlets in specific 16A circuits, but I don't bother and wire all outlets on 2.5 mm² and 20 A because we never know what contraption will be eventually or occasionally plugged into what outlet... We actually don't use 10 mm² wires, which work for 40 A when most houses are rigged for 32A. The only 2 exceptions I know are for 40A electric car fast chargers and large electric heating floors (>7.5KW). Maybe for internal control panel wiring too. The more I see these cramped 1-row British electric panels,, the more I appreciate the multi-row French ones... 😄
at 1:52 what would the BS number tell you that B6 doesnt? im an electrician for automation from germany so could very well be missing something since house installs are not my bread and butter.
As a Canadian, seeing a circuit mounted inside a shower is... Interesting. No space for a hot water heater? No problem! Just put a heavy-gauge circuit with enough juice to make real-time high-flow rate piping hot water right at the shower head.
My landlord wanted to install a shower unit for me a few years ago but I turned it down flat. I detest the damned things. They are a colossal waste of water,and they are run too long at full heat. No wonder the wires melt! They must be installed by someone who knows what he's doing. Water and electricity are a very dangerous combination,no matter where.
The thing that amuses me about that sticker [on ladders the type] is that it's there purely for lip-service, If they *really* didn't want you to go above it then a sheet of metal or similar above the step would be the only way to stop it - think how thry stop scaffold ladders being used by bolting a board over the style and rungs.
@17:40 Why are slotted machine screws always used in electrical switch plates? is there a specific reason for this, why wouldn't they phase out to an easier crosshead machine screw instead?
had to do that for my mate house owner thinks hes an electrician loose wires can be a common fault badly inserted into the connector or not tightened up properly id always give them a small tug so if its connected and tightened correctly will not come out ha too old know
You guys should get an EMF meter and see just how much crap a spaghetti junction puts out compared to a neatly made one puts out. Also IR camera might show heat build up with such compacted wiring. What I mean by EMF, is basically take a bare oscilloscope probe (or a floating mosfet receiver) and look at the general electrcal field noise around you. No surprises it's prodominantly a 50Hz sine wave because the vast majority of the local field is coming from your house electrics. Even when YOU touch the pin or mosfet the electrical charge of your body is also oscillating as a 50Hz sine wave. Of course modulated on top of that 50Hz wave are all the switchmode power supply spikes and sawtooth waves, inductor spikes etc. A lot of that goes onto the earth as well, a lot of SWPSUs are ground referenced so their cases do not float at 110V. This dumps the reference/feedback micro-current from the low side to the highside leaking current onto the earth. It's why 30mA trips are needed, when 10mA would be better. Because modern digital equipment leaks current to earth. It does so at odd frequencies and generate RF noise in the house wiring. I wonder if you have ever been asked to wire an audio or video studio where this has been addressed and planned for.
That standing leakage to earth in modern smps appliances have caught me a few times. Once the standing leakages reaches 15mA you start to get nuisance tripping. Living in a country with frequent outages and an inverter that tests TN bonding every time it reconnects to the grid. Momentarily opening the bond during the test is sufficient to cause just enough additional leakage that the rcd trips every time the grid returns after an outage. Solution. Split loads over additional RCDs.
@@plonkster The solution in office buildings is to place an RCD per row of desks or even per 4-way power expander. These are probably 15mA or less. Then they either don't fit a bus/circuit RCD at all or one with a stupidly high trip setting such that it's not upset by all the current on the earth. To be honest PCs at least earth it. "2 pin" AC->DC devices often just let the whole device float up to ~100VAC via the Y class capacitor. That will also catch you out if you stick an audio lead in your mouth while touching an earthed device. It's only like 250uA of current, but you'll notice it on your tongue! Plays havoc with breadboard electronics and USB earthing the whole thing when you connect a USB device to the audio amplifier. Most mobile chargers have this leakage current on them. You can "feel" it if you hold the charger out plug in your hand and grab and earthed metal appliance. It's just a tingley fizz even with wet hands. Put a meter on it and you'll see 100VAC into 10M or ~200uA current. Not both at the same time mind.
Yes. I was watching a very tidy Italian sparkie wire up a junction box on RUclips recently. Pulled all the earth cables along and then the lives, neutrals, and same for other circuits. It was very tidily done but still looked like a dog's dinner and EMF was definitely something I was thinking about. That said, I do wonder how CUs generally perform with EMF in that many have the live and neutral terminals running, by design, in a way that means the when cables are coming in from various angles, it really isn't easy to keep the conductors parallel. I wonder how many industry professionals account for this?
8:17 - Don't talk to me about those ladders ! - we had a job in London West End - Project Manager had to go and get this type of ladder and bring it back on the tube (after verifying that he could bring it on the tube) - it was the only ladder allowed on site. Then we had to lock it away every night and chain it to the wall - and then we had to sign (for our own ladder) every morning. They blamed the EU as a scapegoat but I guess that's not possible any more and yet the ladder debacle continues. It was exasperating ! Before we left London we took a picture of the ladder with our crew 😄
Running W/mc and tumble dryer off a splitter plug /multiway adaptor is concerning in terms of total current - BUT what you didn't mention is the compromising of Protective Earth Connection ( one CPC connection into wall socket shared between two appliances) - since both appliances are likely to be class I devices -in which case a reliable CPC connection is vital . IMO this is of more concern -since really EVERY such device should have its own socket to plug into to optimise CPC connection In fact -I really don't like seeing these multiway adaptors in use at all
at 7:02 i love how Luke was a Naughty boy as he stood on the top of the step ladder before the boss man did but only points it out to the camera man haha classic. i love the vids keep up the good work guys you do great work
Lots of people ostracise “ancient” in their opinion North American braker panels - but at least we have lots of room in them, for better air circulation. The one thing I don’t like is electricians making bundles in them in order to be neat, and eliminating air gap in between the conductors. If someone want to make bundles - put a short piece of the heat shrink, or tiny zip-tie on every conductor in the bundles, every 2 1/2 - 3 inches, to make sure there’s an air gap for heat dissipation.
When I was an apprentice I installed a Bill switch just like that but with out the rust in my bedroom as the light switch. I was like Dr Frankenstein. All my mates were impressed.
how did they work out the discrimination from the outside to inside ,cause looks like the shower or rccb is connected directly from the fuses. that's not good as to our standard would have a separate breaker so it can trip out when their is a fault and not tripping the mains. If i did check correctly,
@Artisan electrics I am wondering on where you stand with electric showers... speaking on installation, with mainly whom is responsible to replace a unit? A plumber... or an electrician... Rightfully a dutiful person, may hire both trades to do the job. However in event one trade is hired, "due to reasonings" etc, who should do the job...?
15:40 seems to be an oversimplification because the power factor is not being taken into consideration. Its likely that the true current draw is higher due to a power factor lower than 1.
The washing machine and the dishwasher will have their rating set to cover their maximum use. I.e. 90 degree wash on the washer and the same with the dish washer. Very unlikely both will run maximum at the same time. Its like the allowance for use on cable calculation. Even so those adapters usually have their own fuse on board. Difficult to see in the video as it gets blurred. If it does it now becomes a fused spur, so no issue there.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I'd imagine working with Jordan as your boss would be cool. I've worked with people before who would shout at you for not knowing the correct cable size or amps you never learn with people like that. Where as Jordan is very supportive and spends alot of time with his engineers. Class.
So much macho toxicity within the trades, and people wonder why no one wants to work in it
the way houses are installed are so weird and complicated... the way we doing electric installations in the netherlands are much more simple and easyer for maintenance. No rings, just 16 amps breakers which disconnect phase and neutral. Normally every room has a junctionbox in the ceiling were incoming power is split to sockets, lightswitches and other lightpoints. Wiring is standard through pvc pipes so mostly wires are replaceble too.
As Lewis T. says; it seems the neutral is fused. Far more noteworthy than fussing over excess cabling in the C.U.
If I'm doing a board change I'm very grateful that the previous electrician didn't shorten the cables just to make it look neat.
You can make it look neat without shortening the cables but yep . Take longer cables over neat if the guy can't do both
As a plumber I've seen that shower fault more times then care to remember, and yes if there's a melted block within the shower the pull cord is normally gone also 🥴
Brilliant to see a seasoned spark taking the time to help and teach someone properly and with patience like this. Absolutely beautiful. Without help like this, nobody would ever learn.
I few years back I (stupidly) took a job at a fertiliser plant on immingham docks as a maintenance spark, and all the electrics looked like that, and it was impossible to get any time to even begin to even investigate anything, let alone sort anything out due to them not wanting any machine down time.
Thank god I don't work there any more, how it hasn't gone up in flames is beyond me.
18:50 Re. finding a break, if you know there is nothing connected to the circuit, measuring capacitance to earth of each side can give an indication of distance to the break - lower capacitance = shorter distance.
I'd just disconnect the lives one at a time from the MCB and power up to show up whats on each side, for extra points do some loop impedance tests between L-N each side to find out which is the furthest point on each side of the break (L-N rather than L-E as the high current test is much more accurate than the non-trip range , and for greater accuracy you could take the matching N out of the board as well and not have issues with parallel pats etc). If you then have a leg between two sockets in different parts of the building thats open that appears to have nothing in between, the capactance idea could be useful, but maybe not as useful as one of the cable toners that the telecom guys use :)
Wago should make 60amp inline connectors for showers, seems like every spark finds the same with showers
The only time I put limitation down for sockets behind appliances is if the flooring is of the soft cushion vinyl type. Do NOT want to risk tearing!
if I had to choose between being an electrician and a plumber, I would defo choose being a plumber. As it's a lot harder to drown yourself when working in someone's house.
ya and they make more and stick together unlike us cut throats.....lol
Argh!!! Two videos in a row where Jordan had said, "Amps of power". This triggers the science teacher in me massively 😂
I don’t live in the EMEA region, I hate everything about electricity and plumbing, however, a big fan and subscriber of your channel. Hopefully I don’t speak for all, but what I want is a payoff video.
You always showcase all of the old dangerous consumer units, spaghetti and crappy work, and incoming 50 year old power.
What I want is a complete video from start to finish showcasing old work and new replacement work from Artisan!
👍🏻
We can’t often do that in one video so you usually see the initial inspection and then we come back and fix it another day and do a separate video on that but maybe we can try and do a montage of the whole lot before and after one time
1 like gives Jordan an extra ladder step to climb on... (Serious note be safe on ladders everyone!)
Read HSE guidance on working height, and your number of points of contact on the steps/ladders.
@@herrtomas6729 3
I worked as a telecom engineer out in the field for 25yrs😁. Loved the job😁, Just the BS got to me 😏, oh 😠& idiot managers😠😠. Anyways🤔, ladders are safe when used correctly, & using the right ladders/steps for the task in hand, also common sence 😁🇬🇧🇬🇧
did you notice the fused Neutral on the old metal switch?
Good point regarding the adapter plug/socket.
I love the Bosch Go 2 screwdriver, always use it, except on a chrome accessory.
You're correct that you shouldn't repair faults on an EICR, my tutor taught me this on my recent 2391 course, you should only have your inspectors hat on(but if it's a simple fault we will do it there and then, same as everyone else!)
Well done Luke.
Good video!!!
seems like he didn't even no what he was looking at....possiblky the biggest defect on this installation and the most interesting talking point for a video yet it seems like he didn't even notice
I really like the way everyone is part of the conversation, talking their way through the problem and solving it as a team, there's no room for ego and compaicency when it comes to lektrix,
Never afraid to to check the rules and regs either,
👍
What I don't understand is why on step ladders they have usable steps above the last step you should use? Above the last 'proper' step they should put thin metal bracers that won't take any weight, then they wouldn't need to have stickers saying not to step higher. Eejits.
the reason I expect is that the steps provide structural rigidity to the steps and a unit and a metal bracer would not. the small ladder shown is a waste of time if you can only use the bottom step.
Watching these makes me appreciate our North American style panelboards. So much more room to work with. Also, the electrical code requires a 30" working width and 36" of clear space in front of the panelboard (more space required for higher voltages). Maximum circuit breaker handle height is 6'-7". These rules are to provide a safe working environment for the electrician. Different country, so different rules for sure.
most of the European countries have similar regulations regarding placement and accessibility of the boards. We've also got regulations about keeping all the electrics together, so you cannot have the main breaker in one place and the rest of breakers in a different place. But the UK apparently have some archaic regulations that are completely out of touch, especially since things like 35 A circuits in an ordinary house without any kind of RCD is completely bonkers. In the rest Europe we split the circuits if you need that much power and it's extremely rare to see an installation that allows more than 60 A per phase
As a long retired electrician brought up on 11th edition, I almost fell about laughing when I saw the BILL Double pole switch fuse being used in such a manner. This component should have been in a museum or a skip many years ago.
11th Edition- 1939, before my time 😊
I had a dodgy wall socket in the bedroom that would fail/work if you lightly touched it. Eventually I decided I'd replace it, assuming a bad switch or socket. I undid the mounting screws and the entire thing fell off. Not one of the wires was screwed in. Not just loose, not screwed in at all. The grub screws were all the way out as far as they could go. The only thing making it work was the way the thick copper wiring was splayed outwards, just its spring pressure holding against the wiring holes. It'd been like that for 20 years (since the house was built). To make matters worse, the wall socket wiring also lead to a wall mounted 500 watt bar radiator in the same room, and another one in the bathroom (one thing daisy chained to another). Professional installation, my foot!
Ok DIY Dave
@@evanfpv I'm an electronics engineer, not an electrician. I wouldn't lay cables around a house, but replacing a socket is child's play. I couldn't possibly make it any worse than it already was.
@@CameraTim-DAMMITDOTcom So you arent a qualified electrician?! Your comment means nothing to approved electricians like me who went to college for 4 years then passed there testing and Inspection. Cheers
@@adamsharp201 Really, which bit don't you like?
That I can criticise the electrician involved in building the house in 1965 for doing a shite job? Which they did. I could list a few other things, too:
The fuseboard that looks like an 11 year old did it, with a tangle of wires all around each other. The electrician who lost the screws holding the fuseboard in place and didn't replace them. The electrician who routed wires behind the hinging bar behind the fuseboard so they're pinched against the metal cabinet. All the powerpoints for the entire house on one 16 amp fuse. All the lights for the entire house on one 8 amp fuse.
Each only having just one lead out each from the fuseboard, daisy chaining around the house, so you couldn't possibly separate parts of the house onto individual breakers without removing most of the roof and floorboards. A foot of several joined lighting wiring twisted around themselves in a corkscrew above a light socket that's also the junction point for many more light fittings (it rubbed through some of its insulation and started to smoke). Lighting cable that went over (instead of under) a roof rafter and was squashed between the wooden beam and the corrugated iron roof (which was later pierced by the contractors installing solar panels who put a bolt right through the middle of it, and never bothered to check all the power was working before they left).
That as an electronics engineer and diagnostic fault finding serviceman of over 30 years I'm more than capable of doing the childishly simple job of fitting a wall socket without fouling it up in the most basic way (not screwing in the wires)?
(Something that's much easier than fitting a plug on an appliance cable, actually. Solid copper is easier to get into a wall plate screw terminals than stranded wire into a plug, and has far more space to work in than a plug.)
I work on equipment far more complex than house wiring, and I don't make the balls-up of it that the so-called electrician did wiring our house up. I can't even imagine an apprentice electrician doing the job as bad as our house's wiring.
I suspect a lot of DIY electrical work (and replacing a socket isn't even notifiable) stems from industry professionals doing bad work. Some sparkies are meticulous and some are very rough and ready in their approach. Recently found several sockets and several metal lights in a relative's house (cables in conduit) had not been earthed because the installer (and I still have the paperwork) apparently forgot to pull an earth cable to connect back to the main earth terminal. There was some green/yellow wire but not all the way.
Obviously some would say I should leave it to the professionals. Sadly, some professionals aren't worthy of the name. The good ones are always very busy and don't need to rely on job protectionism to get business, so it's not like if I pull a few earth cables I'm putting anyond out of a job.
Call out the boss on safety? Too bloody right, lives have been lost on the track, in the air and in hospitals where youngsters have been afraid to challenge the gaffer who’s done the job for 30 years.
21:00 if you've already got the socket off, why not just replace it there & then instead of leaving a potentially dangerous situation - surely you keep a few sockets on the van..?
May be even replace it with a surface mounted double!
When u get an MOT done do they replace things for you there and then?
@@negatron8.486 If the car was considered a fire risk, I would hope they wouldn't let me drive away. YMMV.
@@jonathanInLondonUK fire risk, crash risk, they are there to do a report not fix things and they would let you drive away.
@@negatron8.486 Happy to recommend my electrician and my local garage to you. Both understand their moral duty.
I’ve got smallest house in the street but the biggest switchboard. As an inspector I hate over crowding.
This board is nothing,
I have seen worse 2:04 installation carried out by an inspector, I don't know haw to add photos here but I can tell you it's hot stuff
Good old double pole fusing, believe that went out in the 1950s/60s?
with open circuit rings, i tend to short the faulty wire to another at the CU, then go round with the megger and find at what point that link disappears, that gives you a decent indication of where the break might be
Also looks like there was fuses in both Line AND in Neutral inside that isolator !?
also noticed that the neutral was fused common practice back then
A later electrician may have put a bit of thick wire on the neutral side to avoid having a fused neutral.
You would also need bigger switches & sockets with deeper boxes to take 10 square. Its just not practical.
10mm twin and earth in a down lighter haha. Good luck with that termination 😂
You’re saying the extension block is rated for 13 amps and the connected load exceeds that. But is a double socket also not rated for 13amp? So how is that a solution?
A double socket is rated for a combined 20 amps, with up to 13 amps per socket.
That shower connection,or lack of connection,is just downright piss poor,I can't believe someone would be so negligent,with a device that draws as much current as a shower, it's rubbish like that,that will burn someone's house down & land you in the Coroner's Court to answer some pretty serious questions,SMH😡🤬
Interesting, entertaining and disturbing, since nothing was staged for the camera. It made me think about what I have in my home. The changes have been few since we moved in. The showers are 24 volts, transformer-isolated pump only, low-power units.
That does seem pretty bad for a consumer panel. I just started as an industrial electrician in a large factory. Imagine a panel 10x that size with wires going everywhere. Prints will be missing or just plain wrong. Part of the job is just finding where everything goes. It is a skill to be sure.
Cory will be very happy you're having to hire 2 electricians to replace him.
lol
i thought the exact same
Just double the daily rate, no need to find other work.
Unless someone else is moving on, maybe!
Looks like fairly typical general builder (i.e. cheap/cowboy) electrical work, particularly the sockets which have been plastered and painted over and never worked with neatly (that's a personal gripe of mine, including door furniture). Cables falling out of sockets appears to be a common issue with these kind of situations too. Can't count the number of sockets that I've fixed just by screwing the cables into the terminals properly.
Here's a question, we have Torque settings for the connections in CUs and on MCBs and RCBOs etc, but are there any Torque settings for Sockets and Showers and CCUs etc....?
Replace that old MEM fused neutral/live ( code 2 ) isolator with new double pole isolator with over current & surge protection .
1:06 My old flat had a unit like that up near the ceiling above the stairway. Why have it so high up and inaccessible?
Wow can’t believe how many issues/dangers you find on an eicr, very scary and makes me think about the electrics in my house and if I need to get one done. I’ll bet so many people put this off thinking oh it’s working fine so don’t need one. 😳
That’s too many cables to handle! Just bin the box 😂
Hi Jordan, you were also quoted recently in an article in the IET engineering and technology magazine incase you diddnt know. You know you have made it when you appear in a professional magazine 👍
Very nice teaching and guidance. Instead of just telling which you see a lot, you question their answer. 👌👌
I get the splitter plug is dodgey, but wouldnt the 13a fuse in it blow before it became a fire risk?
Don’t think that had a fuse, the individual plugs are fused but it didn’t seem the splitter did?
Having only ever seen ring circuits in electrical substations here in Australia it always suprises me to see it commonly used in the UK. I guess that is why you need to have a separate fuse for pretty much everything.
Trying to get away from it now became common practice after the war to save copper but more and more going back to radial circuits now
Can't run conductors in parallel under 4mm and have to protect the individual cable not the combined rating, so not really any point in rings.
That is the main reason for the fused plug, yes. Rings are fine until someone fiddles with them, which is all too common - a broken ring is very dangerous, as is the wiring of spurs onto spurs without a fused connection unit.
@@benjones1180 radial mains in nearly all houses here, but not in PRC builds cus the walls in those are pure concrete. PRC builds have spurs
Fused plugs !
I've never heard of a heated shower before... I don't know if this is common in England, or if it's just something I've never heard of. I live in the US, and my shower is heated by the water heater.
It’s a mix of both here in the UK. More often than not it’s a mixer shower (not electric in any way) with hot and cold water feeds, but many places have electric showers that only require a cold water feed. Those only needing a cold water feed have punchy heating element within that provides instantaneous hot water.
Haha at 28:02 Luke did you unplug the fridge for IR on the ring and Luke was like yeah ( the way he sounded he definitely didn’t )
Yup this is bad....had to redo a couple of them here in South Africa! Would love to someday work in the UK!
Please don’t immigration is destroying the uk as it is there’s so many Eastern Europeans sparking right not ( most have fake certificates )
1) I don't expect the adaptor to burst into flames below the non-fusing current of a 13-amp fuse (and 16 amps is well below that), at least not if it's properly made. The way it hangs off the socket does look dodgy though.
2) Unless the plug was old enough to have solid brass pins (unsleeved) I can't really see how a damp card could cause any issues. Efixxx recently showed a picture of a charred one though, overheated plug in a dodgy socket.
3) Why would you put the connection from the socket circuit to the light down as a limitation rather than "further investigation"?
Money talks mate
2 does prevent the socket being fully inserted though. Which MIGHT not allow so good a connection. They shouldn't sell goods with those paper cards fitted if the plug's already fitted if you're supposed to remove before use. IMO.
@@johnbull5394 True, although I wonder how much of a difference that piece of card makes. In Schuko countries people use child-proof shutters fixed into the sockets with double-sided sticky tape, shutters that are much thicker than those cards, and I haven't heard of any fires caused by these, even though they don't conform to the regs and I've replaced dozens of them with proper shuttered sockets.
@@Ragnar8504 As you say, probably too thin to make any difference . But it's probably the logic behind making an issue of it.
There's been quite a few comments about what heat is being generated by the mass of wires in the consumer unit, I have a thermal camera for plumbing work but it can be used of course for electrical work. It would be interesting to see if there is really a difference between a neat board and a overflowing board like that one.
I would love to know that too... I do have a tiny camera on a long probe (Doctor-style) that I would have used to check for insulation material in that roof cavity at 09:17 where the cables went but I don't have a thermal camera. :-(
Maybe just my OCD, but why have sockets connected between floors? Should there not be a separate breaker panel per floor?
Crazy how you guys have your breaker panels so high you need a ladder to access them. How about lowering them to chest height. That would make life easier.
crazy how you think every panel is this height just from watching this video lol
Interesting as always! Also, I think there should be a (legal) movement in actually identifying the installer and making an official report mandatory since it's gonna come down to some serious house fire one day.. probably not the only install that individual has done init haha
the installer might have done a really neat job of it, and then the cowboys come along over the years with maintainance and adding circuits in and messing it all up, especially DIYers. its hard to put the installers name to stuff like this unless its a new install...
@@jamieisbadiof6106 true, but that then has to be investigated. Property owner knows best who’s been in and out to perform changes to the installation. Thereby, but of course also can be tampered with, you can apply seal stickers on the appliance as I saw Jordan do one on a new CU to have at least some sort of indication someone’s been in after you
@@wolflouis_official We do issue certs, either EICs (Electrical Installation Certificates (complete with Circuit Information and Test Results) on new circuit installations and MEIWC Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate,so the householder should keep these with the house files for future reference, and pass them on when selling a house!
Mine is prob worse tbh - consumer unit is prob 80 yrs old - ivory fuses etc. Thanks for the walkthrough /tips - I’ll put it on the list of things to do
Here's a tip for shower pull cords. Get the round type ones, last far longer and don't melt as often. If it's a new install use the mount of the new pull cord , on a solid grounds mark your cable entry holes and drill out. Bring your feed and switch wire cables through the holes as they will terminate into the terminals.
Having an electrical appliance connected to a circuit with massive current delivery capabilities in my shower is not something I want. Good thing you guys have RCDs in the UK, be the very thought of it still make me feel uneasy.
I agree re dishwasher and washing machine splitter - would put in a double socket asap, but realistically both appliances are unlikely to draw their maximum current for long or at the same time as eachother (ie apply diversity). My kettle is 3000kw but has a 0.75mm2 flex. Would you C3 or C2 that?
One thing I couldn't see in the video was whether the 2-way adapter was FUSED or not. Best practice says that you should only use fused adapters as they only plug into one socket - hence fusing the load at 13A max.
@@herrtomas6729 usually the two-way ones aren't fused (the one used wasn't fused) but three-ways are. Doesn't make sense really! It comes down to user common sense.
In my previous employment, annual PAT testers were told to fail and withdraw all non fused adapters that users had sneaked in from home…
@@herrtomas6729 but if they meet BS1363 they are approved for use in home or workplace. I'm not saying they're always a good idea but BS1363 is the agreed standard. I use one to plug in two desk lamps - that shouldn't fail a PAT but if it was two kettles it should.
Agreed, but if users’ common sense (or understanding) cannot be trusted…..
Therefore this local policy was adopted. (As well as the one which prohibited the use of untested personal equipment on the business supply… multiple fan heaters in winter, toasters in places they shouldn’t be - once had a trapped slice in unattended toaster set off fire alarm and cause factory evacuation!)
That shower connector reminded me of the isolator/shutoff switch for one of my student digs. The switch one day just started smouldering and smoking and filled the hallway with acrid smoke. Landlord put a new switch on himself, despite not being an electrician...
Not to mention that this house had 4 (FOUR) electric showers on a single 100A phase main. You can do the maths...
I work in ex Local Authority buildings. By those standards that's a neat board. Don't get me wrong, it's not ideal - but it seems very common in my environment. The main issue it poses for me is making any kind of testing borderline impossible. Trying to dig out conductors from an RCBO in a packed out 3 phase board to do some end to ends is impossible.
🤔 not sure why Luke’s pointing out Jordan not using the steps correctly? when he’d just done the same thing !
You should test ring at board as you have to check at each socket when you do r1+rn and r1 + r2 test otherwise test is not completed correctly and you cannot guarantee ring continuity when you reconnect socket
It will give you good idea of the state of circuit but not correctly perform to niceic standards
But they are happy if you tick box’s and leave in dodgy condition
You found one of my old jobs it was a right " b " to get the lid on !
Lol
I’m just learning about IR, I get the removal of devices and usb sockets. I am I correct with fused spurs to just make sure they are turned off the switch and you don’t have to take it off and disconnect the load?
Looked like a comercial DB with a non self closing front mcb cover. Would you note this as non compliance ?
On that old high metal fuse box, were there 2 fuses? one for Live and one for Neutral? Wasn't fused neutral banned about 50 years ago?
You know why they were banned by any chance?
@@jayc1140 I think they were banned in the 1950's, and have to be removed if seen from the mid 2010's.
They were banned as if the neutral fuse fails, it will look like the power has failed, but all components will still be at 230v with reference to ground. Any investigation could lead to a shock/death.
@@andrewwright1200 ah okay thanks mate. I work for a meter company and know we can’t work on them so always wondered why that was
Another great video.... your channel was a massive help when going through my apprenticeship! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the comment
10 mm² section wires are €4.80 per meter for 3 wires here in France.
1.5 mm² is €0.54, also for 3 wires, 9 times cheaper. It's the minimum section we can use, I use it only for lighting, although we can theoretically use it also for outlets in specific 16A circuits, but I don't bother and wire all outlets on 2.5 mm² and 20 A because we never know what contraption will be eventually or occasionally plugged into what outlet...
We actually don't use 10 mm² wires, which work for 40 A when most houses are rigged for 32A. The only 2 exceptions I know are for 40A electric car fast chargers and large electric heating floors (>7.5KW). Maybe for internal control panel wiring too.
The more I see these cramped 1-row British electric panels,, the more I appreciate the multi-row French ones... 😄
watching these videos while doing my nvq level 3, and honestly they are so helpful and entertaining at the same time lol
at 1:52 what would the BS number tell you that B6 doesnt? im an electrician for automation from germany so could very well be missing something since house installs are not my bread and butter.
16.00 it will only catch fire if they remove the 13 amp fuse that comes with the adapter
Yep... heven't learned any high voltage stuff since highschool... definitely would consider it if I ever get tired of web development...
Sadly that CU is no surprise to me. And there’s usually no money to clean it up in domestic work.
like to see someone try to get 10mm T&E cable into a light fitting :)
In the US each has a designated line. Same goes for dishwasher and frig.. lets not forget ac wall units.
In a new installation are circuit rings still standard in UK ? I have to mention that i am not from UK but interested in electrics...
As a Canadian, seeing a circuit mounted inside a shower is... Interesting. No space for a hot water heater? No problem! Just put a heavy-gauge circuit with enough juice to make real-time high-flow rate piping hot water right at the shower head.
We use the Altrex TDO ladders in the Netherlands. The have a safety bar you can fold in and out when you want to stand on top of the ladder.
great video guys . good to see Luke doing so well
Thanks!
There is a fuse in the 2 way connector block you showed with the drier and washer? I assume it’s 13a therefore no fire risk?
My landlord wanted to install a shower unit for me a few years ago but I turned it down flat. I detest the damned things. They are a colossal waste of water,and they are run too long at full heat. No wonder the wires melt! They must be installed by someone who knows what he's doing. Water and electricity are a very dangerous combination,no matter where.
The thing that amuses me about that sticker [on ladders the type] is that it's there purely for lip-service, If they *really* didn't want you to go above it then a sheet of metal or similar above the step would be the only way to stop it - think how thry stop scaffold ladders being used by bolting a board over the style and rungs.
@17:40 Why are slotted machine screws always used in electrical switch plates? is there a specific reason for this, why wouldn't they phase out to an easier crosshead machine screw instead?
had to do that for my mate house owner thinks hes an electrician loose wires can be a common fault badly inserted into the connector or not tightened up properly id always give them a small tug so if its connected and tightened correctly will not come out ha too old know
You guys should get an EMF meter and see just how much crap a spaghetti junction puts out compared to a neatly made one puts out. Also IR camera might show heat build up with such compacted wiring.
What I mean by EMF, is basically take a bare oscilloscope probe (or a floating mosfet receiver) and look at the general electrcal field noise around you. No surprises it's prodominantly a 50Hz sine wave because the vast majority of the local field is coming from your house electrics. Even when YOU touch the pin or mosfet the electrical charge of your body is also oscillating as a 50Hz sine wave. Of course modulated on top of that 50Hz wave are all the switchmode power supply spikes and sawtooth waves, inductor spikes etc. A lot of that goes onto the earth as well, a lot of SWPSUs are ground referenced so their cases do not float at 110V. This dumps the reference/feedback micro-current from the low side to the highside leaking current onto the earth. It's why 30mA trips are needed, when 10mA would be better. Because modern digital equipment leaks current to earth. It does so at odd frequencies and generate RF noise in the house wiring.
I wonder if you have ever been asked to wire an audio or video studio where this has been addressed and planned for.
That standing leakage to earth in modern smps appliances have caught me a few times. Once the standing leakages reaches 15mA you start to get nuisance tripping. Living in a country with frequent outages and an inverter that tests TN bonding every time it reconnects to the grid. Momentarily opening the bond during the test is sufficient to cause just enough additional leakage that the rcd trips every time the grid returns after an outage.
Solution. Split loads over additional RCDs.
@@plonkster The solution in office buildings is to place an RCD per row of desks or even per 4-way power expander. These are probably 15mA or less.
Then they either don't fit a bus/circuit RCD at all or one with a stupidly high trip setting such that it's not upset by all the current on the earth.
To be honest PCs at least earth it. "2 pin" AC->DC devices often just let the whole device float up to ~100VAC via the Y class capacitor.
That will also catch you out if you stick an audio lead in your mouth while touching an earthed device. It's only like 250uA of current, but you'll notice it on your tongue! Plays havoc with breadboard electronics and USB earthing the whole thing when you connect a USB device to the audio amplifier.
Most mobile chargers have this leakage current on them. You can "feel" it if you hold the charger out plug in your hand and grab and earthed metal appliance. It's just a tingley fizz even with wet hands. Put a meter on it and you'll see 100VAC into 10M or ~200uA current. Not both at the same time mind.
Yes. I was watching a very tidy Italian sparkie wire up a junction box on RUclips recently. Pulled all the earth cables along and then the lives, neutrals, and same for other circuits. It was very tidily done but still looked like a dog's dinner and EMF was definitely something I was thinking about.
That said, I do wonder how CUs generally perform with EMF in that many have the live and neutral terminals running, by design, in a way that means the when cables are coming in from various angles, it really isn't easy to keep the conductors parallel. I wonder how many industry professionals account for this?
My comment should have been @1over137
8:17 - Don't talk to me about those ladders ! - we had a job in London West End - Project Manager had to go and get this type of ladder and bring it back on the tube (after verifying that he could bring it on the tube) - it was the only ladder allowed on site.
Then we had to lock it away every night and chain it to the wall - and then we had to sign (for our own ladder) every morning.
They blamed the EU as a scapegoat but I guess that's not possible any more and yet the ladder debacle continues.
It was exasperating !
Before we left London we took a picture of the ladder with our crew 😄
Running W/mc and tumble dryer off a splitter plug /multiway adaptor is concerning in terms of total current - BUT what you didn't mention is the compromising of Protective Earth Connection ( one CPC connection into wall socket shared between two appliances) - since both appliances are likely to be class I devices -in which case a reliable CPC connection is vital .
IMO this is of more concern -since really EVERY such device should have its own socket to plug into to optimise CPC connection
In fact -I really don't like seeing these multiway adaptors in use at all
at 7:02 i love how Luke was a Naughty boy as he stood on the top of the step ladder before the boss man did but only points it out to the camera man haha classic. i love the vids keep up the good work guys you do great work
Lots of people ostracise “ancient” in their opinion North American braker panels - but at least we have lots of room in them, for better air circulation.
The one thing I don’t like is electricians making bundles in them in order to be neat, and eliminating air gap in between the conductors. If someone want to make bundles - put a short piece of the heat shrink, or tiny zip-tie on every conductor in the bundles, every 2 1/2 - 3 inches, to make sure there’s an air gap for heat dissipation.
Blimey a fused neutral. What do you do to resolve that issue? Stick a bit of 100A wire in the neutral and leave the 45A in line?????
In Australia , the maximum height of the main switch is 2 meter , look like it doesn’t apply over there ?
When I was an apprentice I installed a Bill switch just like that but with out the rust in my bedroom as the light switch. I was like Dr Frankenstein. All my mates were impressed.
how did they work out the discrimination from the outside to inside ,cause looks like the shower or rccb is connected directly from the fuses. that's not good as to our standard would have a separate breaker so it can trip out when their is a fault and not tripping the mains. If i did check correctly,
Unilight products are cheaper from Amazon even taking into account 25% discount? However, these headlights are not available there …..yet.
@Artisan electrics
I am wondering on where you stand with electric showers... speaking on installation, with mainly whom is responsible to replace a unit? A plumber... or an electrician...
Rightfully a dutiful person, may hire both trades to do the job. However in event one trade is hired, "due to reasonings" etc, who should do the job...?
You should have seen the fuses when I moved into the current property! All burnt!! It is really worrying what you find. 😕
Have you ever found rubber insulated and lead sheathed cable still in use?? I found some when ripping out!!
That main isolator has a fused neutral which is no longer permitted
Hey you guys are such an inspiration for the sparky community, so much so that we started our own channel, we're in Australia though, keep it up!
15:40 seems to be an oversimplification because the power factor is not being taken into consideration. Its likely that the true current draw is higher due to a power factor lower than 1.
I thought i would see Corey in this episode disinterested must stop watching 😂
How does that adapter overload socket when it has 13amp bs1362 fuse in it fuse should blow first
Why bother to replace the shower breaker with a 6 amp if the original cable is still installed? Seems unnecessary.
If the cable run is not visible, then de-rate the conductor to the worst case scenario given in the table.
The washing machine and the dishwasher will have their rating set to cover their maximum use. I.e. 90 degree wash on the washer and the same with the dish washer. Very unlikely both will run maximum at the same time. Its like the allowance for use on cable calculation. Even so those adapters usually have their own fuse on board. Difficult to see in the video as it gets blurred. If it does it now becomes a fused spur, so no issue there.
Just because it looks a mess doesn't make it unsafe, I've seen much worse and it passed every test