DO YOU STRETCH YOUR FLEX DUCT BEFORE ITS INSTALLED?

Do you stretch your flex duct before you install it, I never used to but I was recently informed of the correct way to do it.... The more you know huh!
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[@Dreddy72]

if you stretch your flex for more than 4 hours, call a physician.

[@luisesquivel4187]

Stretch out my flex before they even get to the attic, helps out so much when knowing you only need a certain length or are working in a tight space

[@travishamilton1659]

I have the same conversation all the time. And I always tell them if it's installed properly like it's supposed to it will work just as good

[@jeeper426]

i learned to stretch the flex prior to installation when we converted our house to central hvac, at first i thought it was strange that it called for that, but it made it soo much easier to install after getting the memory out of the inner ducting

[@flipfloptanlines926]

100% stretching the flex was what i was taught as an installer, then later taught and expected my crews to do as a supervisor. We also, after wyes are taped and banded, pull the inner of the entire trunk assemblies as an assembled unit. Then after stretching you band the outer insulation layers on those connections. What this does is eliminate the "bunching" of the inners on the fittings. We tested with and without Aeroseal. We consistently showed a 10% cfm improvement on a 5 ton blower, and 15% on 3 ton. Aeroseal without stretching improved cfm by 5% on average. And the application dictates the material used, flex over kd or spiral or fabbed in your case. Application is residential where noise is a primary concern, especially when sleeping. Kd, fabbed, or spiral is much more labor and material needed than flex to achieve the same outcome. Flex is inherently without longitudinal seams, quieter, cheaper, easier to install, more readily available, better insulated and easier to transport than a solid metal solution. R8 foilback flex was the correct option to pick. How much more would a solid metal solution cost to achieve the same goals? Double at a minimum would be my guess, triple cost would probally be closer. Keep your friends close, and your banding gun closer lol

[@uxwbill]

I never knew that! Learn something new every day...

[@MLMinReality]

I've never heard that before. Glad I watch your channel! I know HVAC enough to learn just from watching you work. I really appreciate your videos. I've recently moved to a new area where there's little go no training opportunities. Your channel has been a blessing. I'm absolutely loving your home project. You're actively doing what every good HVAC guy wishes they could do to their house. Can't wait to see how much your static pressure goes down.

[@mattluongo7763]

Never realized that but it makes sense

[@thewatchersofthewood3530]

For my own system I use rigid pipe taped joints and 2 layers of insulation. For everyone else break out the flex duct! Lol. Actually I just like the look of the rigid pipe as the space is used better.

[@potentialhvac6074]

Thats a good idea but i usually strech the liner (bladder as me and a buddy call it) after making the first connection and slipping the insulation/jacket over what ever fitting im attching to. The extra bladder kinda helps slip the insulation/jacket around fittings like 90's, boots, wyes, etc

[@good_commentary5829]

That is very much true. I am a service technician for new home, construction warranty, in Phoenix, Arizona and I have been to a house where the complaint was there was no airflow when the system was on in the bathroom and I checked the CFM at calls for 40 CFM. It was only getting 28 CFM that is on target still but I try to get the airflow spot on found at the TY in the attic. The flex was not pulled tight, at the t-y disconnected the flex and pulled it tight enough where it didn’t have slack in it check the CFM again was right on target 38 CFM calls for 40 cfm that’s why house is the size off heat infiltration in new home construction CFM hast to be spot on static pressure and fine-tune charge on system or else it’s not gonna cool properly and ductwork has to be pulled tight

[@5454Alpha]

Back when i did new construction, Whenever it was time to run the crawlspace ducts, we would always stretch the duct out, attach the boot, wrap our hanger strap at regular intervals, and position it at the crawlspace entrance. that way, the duded or dudes in the crawlspace could just drag each run down as needed and have it fully ready for installation and hanging back to the distro box or trunk as needed. Not only was it faster that way, but the results were always better on the end product.

[@scoobydooshaggy93]

when I install I stretch flex and always use cable ties not just tape

[@randomvidz512]

I’ve never read it

[@timb6879]

Yes absolutely

[@saintsteve4314]

Yep every time

[@AllTattedUp13]

Anybody else start itching as soon as u seen this 😂😂

[@wkenealey]

If I've learned anything, it's that the installers don't read the install instructions on anything.

[@logankollatt2857]

As long as you know what you doing it works

[@ianmartinez7927]

Always !