First I apologize for the long winded comment and please read the whole thing. You said correct you if you're wrong, I don't think correcting you is what is needed, a little more understanding of what is going on and how that can limit your accuracy would be more helpful I think. So hopefully you can take some advice from someone who has worked through all this personally. I'm speaking from first hand experience is what I'm trying to say. Muzzle jump in itself is not what I'm saying needs to be eliminated all though it would be nice. The main issue is the rifle torqueing and also jumping off to one side or another. The bipod I recommend in past videos helps with this because it provides a wider more stable platform. It's all about recoil management and that's what a wider bipod does. Throw a piece of carpet under it and it helps even more. A rifle is going bounce off the hard surface. With the flat feet on the bipod, the carpet also allows the rifle to slide backwards. I'm speaking from experience. I've shot thousands and thousands of rounds over the years in F-TR. I shoot on cement and wood benches doing load development. I've done this with regular bipods like yours and Sinclair f-class bipods. I've seen it help. If you look at f-class shooters, all of them have some version of a wide bipod. If you need something else to correct you or convince you. Look at what benchrest shooters and the F-open shooters use. Also, Looking at what the rules limit you on is another tell tale on what helps a person shoot better. F-class shooters can't have a forend wider than 3", why do they want wider ones, because it helps control the rifle more which aids in smaller groups. Benchrest has similar rules and also has classes that allow wider forends. Don't get me wrong, reducing recoil with weight does help. I add lead to my stock to get my rifle up to the 18 pound with limit. But, it doesn't make up for the benefit of a wide bipod. Or you could just make a video and prove world class Benchrest and f-class shooters wrong. I like having the best setup possible for load development. It takes away as much misleading info as possible and I know what the rifle is capable of. It also gives me a mark to work towards with how the rifle is going to be shot regularly.
@@mattsreloadingbench does a short response like this mean that you are not actually open to being corrected like you said in the video? Or do you actually believe that a wider bipod can actually improve your accuracy?
I believe that there is merit to what you are saying. But, I have decided to try other avenues. There is nothing wrong with doing that. I am in a position to try less expensive options before going expensive. The bipod that you talk about are not cheap and for now, not as practical due to the cost. I have other projects that I am working on and money is always going to be a factor in my decisions. Yes, I do have alot of cool stuff that I take great joy in being able to use and share with my audience. But these things have been acquired over a very long time span. I am just a regular guy with a regular job and like I said, less expensive is my options for now. Alot of the footage that I am able to create is with materials that I already have on hand and sometimes I get lucky and get a good deal on stuff and am able to share that with others. So, now that you know where I am coming from, I don't want you to feel that I am blowing you off. Take care and thanks for watching and participating in valued discussion.
I was out shooting yesterday and realized something I forgot about that could help you out a little and that's a good solid rear bag. Something like an edgewood will help keep your gun recoiling consistenly. It's one of the key components to accuracy.
I have a good bag system. This is just a rifle that I have been struggling with since day one. I am going to look into other avenues moving forward. I was out shooting my Creedmoor the other day and was able to get .25" groups. 300prc, .5" groups. This is just a difficult rifle. Why? I don't know. But I am looking at getting a different rifle.
Bipod can have an impact. If your bipod has any “bounce” or springiness for lack of a better term it can cause your rifle to jump or bounce. Especially if you have a muzzle devise with top facing ports that push the rifle down when fired. The bipod can then have the reverse effect when it absorbs that force, if it’s not a rigid bipod.
To make a long story short, the rifle was not great. I ended up ditching it all together. Now I am shooting a Seekins Havak HIT 6.5 PRC and I love it! I did end up using the chassis weights on that one and it helped with both muzzle jump and recoil felt.
Carbon fiber barrel, carbon fiber fore end, my question is, if you want a light rifle,you should expect barrel jump and increased recoil pulse. Why go light if you expect bench gun results?? I have a GRS Bifrost stock with my 300 win mag, a good muzzle brake and zero (0) muzzle jump plus it is a pleasure to shoot all day long. Go back to a heavier stock and a quality brake, you will see the difference.
I agree. This is the rifle that I have and it is what I have to work with. I am used to the heavy guns and I wanted to try something different. Sometimes some choices don't come to the desired results and plans have to me modified.
First I apologize for the long winded comment and please read the whole thing.
You said correct you if you're wrong, I don't think correcting you is what is needed, a little more understanding of what is going on and how that can limit your accuracy would be more helpful I think. So hopefully you can take some advice from someone who has worked through all this personally. I'm speaking from first hand experience is what I'm trying to say.
Muzzle jump in itself is not what I'm saying needs to be eliminated all though it would be nice. The main issue is the rifle torqueing and also jumping off to one side or another. The bipod I recommend in past videos helps with this because it provides a wider more stable platform. It's all about recoil management and that's what a wider bipod does. Throw a piece of carpet under it and it helps even more. A rifle is going bounce off the hard surface. With the flat feet on the bipod, the carpet also allows the rifle to slide backwards. I'm speaking from experience. I've shot thousands and thousands of rounds over the years in F-TR. I shoot on cement and wood benches doing load development. I've done this with regular bipods like yours and Sinclair f-class bipods. I've seen it help.
If you look at f-class shooters, all of them have some version of a wide bipod.
If you need something else to correct you or convince you. Look at what benchrest shooters and the F-open shooters use. Also, Looking at what the rules limit you on is another tell tale on what helps a person shoot better. F-class shooters can't have a forend wider than 3", why do they want wider ones, because it helps control the rifle more which aids in smaller groups. Benchrest has similar rules and also has classes that allow wider forends. Don't get me wrong, reducing recoil with weight does help. I add lead to my stock to get my rifle up to the 18 pound with limit. But, it doesn't make up for the benefit of a wide bipod.
Or you could just make a video and prove world class Benchrest and f-class shooters wrong.
I like having the best setup possible for load development. It takes away as much misleading info as possible and I know what the rifle is capable of. It also gives me a mark to work towards with how the rifle is going to be shot regularly.
Thanks for the info.
@@mattsreloadingbench does a short response like this mean that you are not actually open to being corrected like you said in the video? Or do you actually believe that a wider bipod can actually improve your accuracy?
Woh guy. No need to be abrasive.
@@mattsreloadingbench sorry, just a straightforward question. didn't mean to come across abrasive. It's hard to hear tone and context in text.
I believe that there is merit to what you are saying. But, I have decided to try other avenues. There is nothing wrong with doing that. I am in a position to try less expensive options before going expensive. The bipod that you talk about are not cheap and for now, not as practical due to the cost. I have other projects that I am working on and money is always going to be a factor in my decisions.
Yes, I do have alot of cool stuff that I take great joy in being able to use and share with my audience. But these things have been acquired over a very long time span.
I am just a regular guy with a regular job and like I said, less expensive is my options for now. Alot of the footage that I am able to create is with materials that I already have on hand and sometimes I get lucky and get a good deal on stuff and am able to share that with others.
So, now that you know where I am coming from, I don't want you to feel that I am blowing you off.
Take care and thanks for watching and participating in valued discussion.
I was out shooting yesterday and realized something I forgot about that could help you out a little and that's a good solid rear bag. Something like an edgewood will help keep your gun recoiling consistenly. It's one of the key components to accuracy.
I have a good bag system. This is just a rifle that I have been struggling with since day one. I am going to look into other avenues moving forward. I was out shooting my Creedmoor the other day and was able to get .25" groups. 300prc, .5" groups. This is just a difficult rifle. Why? I don't know. But I am looking at getting a different rifle.
@@mattsreloadingbench well it sounds like you got'r fingered, good deal. You should put up a video of those .25 inch groups, it would be fun to watch.
@@mattsreloadingbench muzzle brake would have done it and still had a lite weight rifle
Bipod can have an impact. If your bipod has any “bounce” or springiness for lack of a better term it can cause your rifle to jump or bounce. Especially if you have a muzzle devise with top facing ports that push the rifle down when fired. The bipod can then have the reverse effect when it absorbs that force, if it’s not a rigid bipod.
That is a valid point. Thanks for your input!
I have the same rifle, is there a part number for the weights?
No. There is not
So did it help or not? What's the result?
To make a long story short, the rifle was not great. I ended up ditching it all together. Now I am shooting a Seekins Havak HIT 6.5 PRC and I love it! I did end up using the chassis weights on that one and it helped with both muzzle jump and recoil felt.
Carbon fiber barrel, carbon fiber fore end, my question is, if you want a light rifle,you should expect barrel jump and increased recoil pulse. Why go light if you expect bench gun results?? I have a GRS Bifrost stock with my 300 win mag, a good muzzle brake and zero (0) muzzle jump plus it is a pleasure to shoot all day long. Go back to a heavier stock and a quality brake, you will see the difference.
I agree. This is the rifle that I have and it is what I have to work with. I am used to the heavy guns and I wanted to try something different. Sometimes some choices don't come to the desired results and plans have to me modified.
The weights should help. One thing that would help with the recoil would be a muzzle brake. See how it goes with the weights.
I was thinking about getting a compensator muzzle break. We will see.
Thanks for watching.