I just received mine and went about checking over it. The NCV is now a thin wire going up to the top of the unit, same as the SZ305 you reviewed. NCV function works fine. I noticed the buzzer still has the white protector over it, so I removed it, thinking it was a manufacturing oversight. To my surprise, it changed the tone of the sound to be less audible! So I put it back. Turns out, there is an open tunnel under the buzzer where the sound comes out and makes it to other places in the case. The white patch is up against the case anyway. For continuity, the buzzer consumes 18.4 mA (0.94 V dropped across 51 ohm series resistor) and the LED 3.4 mA (0.34V dropped across a 100 ohm resistor). On my unit, the fuse continues to be a SMD resettable fuse marked "JF". After lubing it and putting it back together, I put rubber bumpers for the flat and tilt configurations to keep this baby planted. Otherwise the test leads drag the hard plastic case unit around mercilessly. Oh, and one other note of interest, both brethren will do relative capacitance, just hold down SEL after choosing the farad range and a delta symbol will appear in the display to confirm.
Thx for the update Paul..I had high hopes for this multimeter but alas, Aneng engineering fell short again. It's still a fun meter to use and it's definitely workable. I only wish they would have done more to make it truly conceptual besides the case enclosure (which I like). As you mentioned , putting some rubber down for traction sounds like a plan (think I'll do the same).That tiny 5A resettable fuse works but I'd still like a regular ceramic in its place. All in all a novel dmm that could've been lots more ! 😊
I love seeing that innovative case storage/protection system! It seems like it would even go even better with a clamp meter where you don't always use the probes. However, the input protection looks horrible.
@14:18 Those input jacks were causing a problem on my unit! The free ends of the leads are too long, and are untrimmed on the range selector side of the PCB. They hit the back of the front panel plastic and keep the PCB from sitting flat, actually bowing the board away from the range selector near the input jacks. I couldn't figure out why my range selector was being flaky, especially around the bottom of the dial. When disassembled, I could see there was a mark at all four locations in the plastic. I trimmed those tails, reassembled, problem solved! Now I can KeepOnTesting!
I just bought SZ08 with black back cover and my 'NCV' runs normally. It just so happened that I needed a cheap multimeter for the electronics hobby. multimeter with standard accuracy and there should be an auto power off function, lucky I saw this review. next cheap one, i want to buy aneng M20. it looks like the M20 is a replacement for the AN8002.
@7:35 I noticed when changing range sometimes the unit resets as observed by double-beep and the full panel display showing "-1888 briefly". It can be observed near the end of your motions back and forth through resistance scale. Nice to see it's not only my device that does this, I thought it was defective! I guess the only drawback is if you had turned off APO when initially turning the device on, this choice will be lost. Only way around this is to hold SELECT while changing range just in case it decides to cycle the power during the mode change (I confirmed this works). Also interesting is there is a phantom backlight mode. If HOLD is long-pressed it will beep but nothing happens. I suppose if someone wanted to add their own backlight they could find the correct pin coming off the COB and add the appropriate transistor/resistor circuit to drive the current to an added LED. It seems this device is very similar to the SZ305 which has a backlight and such a circuit as observed in that other video you did.
Jovem, assisti seu vídeo com ajuda das legendas do RUclips. Muito bom o seu Review, eu estava muito empolgado em adquirir um destes no Aliexpress, agora confesso que estou menos empolgado. 😒👍
Like what other models ? I am looking to buy a digital multimeter and the brand I most come across is ANENG of course my budget is low so what other ANENG digital multimeter in the same or lower price range would you suggest.
If you can find it cheap and you don't need much, it's an okay meter. The second you took it out of its case it was obvious that it won't have any input protection. It's typical for Aneng to cut cost there, but in this case it's just too thin for it. Still an interesting model. I can't shake the feeling it's loosely based on that Red Dot Award winning JIMI.
@15:00 So that would be a PPTC substitute for a fuse, not a current shunt, right? A PPTC wouldn't respond linear to current increase. Nice that there are pads there to install a proper fuse of sorts and drop the PPTC. The place where a wire current shunt is unoccupied. It seems the board designs a meter that can be populated properly or cheaply, depending how they want to designate components later on.
I bought it for about 2,8 dolar, 14 reais in brazil. It Seems really good, i have a generic yellow one that is far worse and it cost 12 dollar (60 reais) in a local store here.
I'm sure i already wrote a comment a while ago but somehow it's suddenly disappeared... oh well, anyway, although it has some cons, but the battery tests might be handy on the bench, as it covers the most commonly used : 1.5v, 3v and 9v batteries.
@@pault6533 In this case the meter simply puts a small current load on the battery or cell, so in effect the internal resistance of the battery is being gauged.
Hi Mr. Are you showing this sz08 inside no fuse. I want to ask something ANENG MULTIMETER Brand HABOTEST Which Brand is best AUTO and smart digital. Multimeter pleas
ANENG have cut too many corners on the SZ08, unfortunately. They have really hit the bottom end of the DMM market with this one. Strange, because they have many other models in more or less the same price range that are higher resolution, much better looking and better built, too. Thanks for the honest and thorough review, as always.
Like what other models ? I am looking to buy a digital multimeter and the brand I most come across is ANENG of course my budget is low so what other ANENG digital multimeter in the same or lower price range would you suggest.
I hace 2 testers auto mode and autorange. They are very slow with continuity test. It a nightmare. I'm searching tester with no automode for have fast testing
Hello Pedro..check out the Zotek ZT-980. Just toss the stock test leads with better ones and you're good to go 👍 ruclips.net/video/P3_EjJ8QMmM/видео.htmlsi=bKKSrlv-k8-XCj0l
I don't like gimmick meters that much. Even if you are a casual meter user around the house, it doesn't look very durable. I'd rather have a meter in a good rubber boot in case it slides off the hood of your car. This one looks like it would shatter.
Wow, that’s a piece of garbage! Comically thin and a 10A “fuse” that you could accidentally inhale without even noticing. Man, I _almost_ want to buy this meter just to see what happens if you stick it across mains in the 10A range.
It comes to me damaged and the manufacterer didn’t replace it. I made videos showing the trouble and send for they but It was inutile. Just put yourself in muito place. Am I wrong?
I just received mine and went about checking over it. The NCV is now a thin wire going up to the top of the unit, same as the SZ305 you reviewed. NCV function works fine. I noticed the buzzer still has the white protector over it, so I removed it, thinking it was a manufacturing oversight. To my surprise, it changed the tone of the sound to be less audible! So I put it back. Turns out, there is an open tunnel under the buzzer where the sound comes out and makes it to other places in the case. The white patch is up against the case anyway. For continuity, the buzzer consumes 18.4 mA (0.94 V dropped across 51 ohm series resistor) and the LED 3.4 mA (0.34V dropped across a 100 ohm resistor). On my unit, the fuse continues to be a SMD resettable fuse marked "JF". After lubing it and putting it back together, I put rubber bumpers for the flat and tilt configurations to keep this baby planted. Otherwise the test leads drag the hard plastic case unit around mercilessly. Oh, and one other note of interest, both brethren will do relative capacitance, just hold down SEL after choosing the farad range and a delta symbol will appear in the display to confirm.
Hi! Your videos are technically interesting and entertaining at the same time! Keep on with your style! Greetings from Romania!
Thanks Paul! Keep On Testing 👍
Thx for the update Paul..I had high hopes for this multimeter but alas, Aneng engineering fell short again. It's still a fun meter to use and it's definitely workable. I only wish they would have done more to make it truly conceptual besides the case enclosure (which I like). As you mentioned , putting some rubber down for traction sounds like a plan (think I'll do the same).That tiny 5A resettable fuse works but I'd still like a regular ceramic in its place. All in all a novel dmm that could've been lots more ! 😊
I love seeing that innovative case storage/protection system! It seems like it would even go even better with a clamp meter where you don't always use the probes. However, the input protection looks horrible.
Innovation is awesome but as you mentioned, not at the expense of lousy innards.
@14:18 Those input jacks were causing a problem on my unit! The free ends of the leads are too long, and are untrimmed on the range selector side of the PCB. They hit the back of the front panel plastic and keep the PCB from sitting flat, actually bowing the board away from the range selector near the input jacks. I couldn't figure out why my range selector was being flaky, especially around the bottom of the dial. When disassembled, I could see there was a mark at all four locations in the plastic. I trimmed those tails, reassembled, problem solved! Now I can KeepOnTesting!
I couldn't have said it better myself 👍 Great job !
I just bought SZ08 with black back cover and my 'NCV' runs normally. It just so happened that I needed a cheap multimeter for the electronics hobby. multimeter with standard accuracy and there should be an auto power off function, lucky I saw this review. next cheap one, i want to buy aneng M20. it looks like the M20 is a replacement for the AN8002.
@7:35 I noticed when changing range sometimes the unit resets as observed by double-beep and the full panel display showing "-1888 briefly". It can be observed near the end of your motions back and forth through resistance scale. Nice to see it's not only my device that does this, I thought it was defective! I guess the only drawback is if you had turned off APO when initially turning the device on, this choice will be lost. Only way around this is to hold SELECT while changing range just in case it decides to cycle the power during the mode change (I confirmed this works). Also interesting is there is a phantom backlight mode. If HOLD is long-pressed it will beep but nothing happens. I suppose if someone wanted to add their own backlight they could find the correct pin coming off the COB and add the appropriate transistor/resistor circuit to drive the current to an added LED. It seems this device is very similar to the SZ305 which has a backlight and such a circuit as observed in that other video you did.
The "Portuguese" language product name in the box is quite funny. Packed for south american markets?
Interesting eh...It shipped from China..perhaps they mispackaged the multimeter as you say..🥴
Огромная благодарность за видео!! Процветания каналу и всего наилучшего !
Great idea for external design, but needs better work inside. I quite agree with you. Once again, thank you for your excellent review
Cheers Sergio 👍
Jovem, assisti seu vídeo com ajuda das legendas do RUclips. Muito bom o seu Review, eu estava muito empolgado em adquirir um destes no Aliexpress, agora confesso que estou menos empolgado. 😒👍
Like what other models ? I am looking to buy a digital multimeter and the brand I most come across is ANENG of course my budget is low so what other ANENG digital multimeter in the same or lower price range would you suggest.
Wow, totally agree with you.
If you can find it cheap and you don't need much, it's an okay meter. The second you took it out of its case it was obvious that it won't have any input protection. It's typical for Aneng to cut cost there, but in this case it's just too thin for it. Still an interesting model. I can't shake the feeling it's loosely based on that Red Dot Award winning JIMI.
...Red Dot Award take 2...I agree!
At least the ANENG opens without a crowbar...too bad the rest of the multimeter wasn't as impressive.
@15:00 So that would be a PPTC substitute for a fuse, not a current shunt, right? A PPTC wouldn't respond linear to current increase. Nice that there are pads there to install a proper fuse of sorts and drop the PPTC. The place where a wire current shunt is unoccupied. It seems the board designs a meter that can be populated properly or cheaply, depending how they want to designate components later on.
Correct, PTC resettable fuse (not a current shunt).
Does the HFE transistor test even work? There's no socket on the PCB, just holes.
It actually does work, pins barely make contact though.
I bought it for about 2,8 dolar, 14 reais in brazil. It Seems really good, i have a generic yellow one that is far worse and it cost 12 dollar (60 reais) in a local store here.
I'm sure i already wrote a comment a while ago but somehow it's suddenly disappeared... oh well, anyway, although it has some cons, but the battery tests might be handy on the bench, as it covers the most commonly used : 1.5v, 3v and 9v batteries.
The Battery testing range was definitely better than average. Should satisfy most who find this feature useful.
@@KeepOnTesting How does this mode work?
@@pault6533 In this case the meter simply puts a small current load on the battery or cell, so in effect the internal resistance of the battery is being gauged.
A perfect death trap in high voltage areas ❤️💀
Hey Darren, (sorta unrelated comment) I'm under the impression that the Aneng 8008 and the Zotek ZT109 are basically the same DMM, Am I wrong?
Correct..8008/ ZT109 are identical. Zotec Instruments is the OEM.
@@KeepOnTesting Thank you for the feedback, and thank you for the content!, you're very helpful.
Can you highlight which resistor is used between 10A and Com pin?
Almost always R010. Similar to this review: ruclips.net/video/Bt3Yt7uK_KU/видео.htmlsi=-T-rJa2D0Q08XV-f&t=482
She is Slim! If you want to protect her, just flip her over and you won't regret it. 😂
I won't even touch that one! 🥴👍
I love the form factor but just not quite there in terms of functionality and overall quality. Thanks for the review 👍
It's too bad ...it looked promising in the beginning.
And to top it off no back light -- keep trying Aneng.
I knew you'd be peeved about that backlight!
Hi Mr. Are you showing this sz08 inside no fuse. I want to ask something ANENG MULTIMETER Brand HABOTEST Which Brand is best AUTO and smart digital. Multimeter pleas
Zotek, Kaiweets and UNI-T are my favorite CHEAP-O Multimeter manufacturers. Aneng is on the bottom of the list..
Waiting for 1 star reviews stating no leads.
😃
Out of curiosity, do you have any 1 star reviews?!
BTMETER BT38B I believe was the last turd to get such a low rating..utter garbage. 👍
Oh yeah, I remember that one! Terrible fail right there 😆
@@koonley I'm still trying to forget it 😪 🥴👍
how to turn off the beep?
Спасибо, мой друг 😊
I really liked the intro!
ANENG have cut too many corners on the SZ08, unfortunately. They have really hit the bottom end of the DMM market with this one. Strange, because they have many other models in more or less the same price range that are higher resolution, much better looking and better built, too.
Thanks for the honest and thorough review, as always.
So true! Take this design and incorporate it into a cutting edge dmm and ANENG will have a winner..
Like what other models ? I am looking to buy a digital multimeter and the brand I most come across is ANENG of course my budget is low so what other ANENG digital multimeter in the same or lower price range would you suggest.
can suggest a good model please
@@Mmr_human AN870 or AN8009
I hace 2 testers auto mode and autorange.
They are very slow with continuity test.
It a nightmare.
I'm searching tester with no automode for have fast testing
Hello Pedro..check out the Zotek ZT-980. Just toss the stock test leads with better ones and you're good to go 👍 ruclips.net/video/P3_EjJ8QMmM/видео.htmlsi=bKKSrlv-k8-XCj0l
I am waiting for KAIWEETS HT208D review......
aneng an8008 or sz08?
No contest..AN8008 👍
it looks nice up to the AAA bad battery
Mind blown
where´s the backlight?
No backlight on this multimeter..
I don't like gimmick meters that much. Even if you are a casual meter user around the house, it doesn't look very durable. I'd rather have a meter in a good rubber boot in case it slides off the hood of your car. This one looks like it would shatter.
It definitely feels "cheap"!
@Darren Walker
Hello!
Greetings my friend 👍
I whacked the like button with my u know what 😝😝
Holy Shi@! ....Much appreciated...I just hope you didn't break anything 😳
😏❗
you deserve an award for over acting
Why thank you..thankyou very much.. 👍
@@KeepOnTesting lol
Yes, but the probes are not native, I put others. Cunning
😂
Крику то, как будто бабу голую увидел))
made of chinesium again
Wow, that’s a piece of garbage! Comically thin and a 10A “fuse” that you could accidentally inhale without even noticing. Man, I _almost_ want to buy this meter just to see what happens if you stick it across mains in the 10A range.
Agreed..👍Seriously though. This multimeter just falls way too short in almost every way.
first comment on this vid
🏅 CONGRATZ!
The Worst multimeter i bought!!! Trash!!!! Trash 😤😤😤😤
Ugh..What's your biggest pet peeve about the multimeter?
It comes to me damaged and the manufacterer didn’t replace it. I made videos showing the trouble and send for they but It was inutile. Just put yourself in muito place. Am I wrong?
@@juliocesarrocha6977 Send me your address Julio, email me : netplicity1@gmail.com
I'll take care of you !😉👍
통전기능이 안된다.
뽑기운이 없나보다.
хрень