I just purchased one. I wanted to watch a review on it. I'm a diesel mechanic so I won't be worrying about half the features but definitely feel like a good buy for the dollar. Loved the review thanks.
I wish they added a "REL" feature. Something like longpressing the "HOLD" button would zero-out the resistance. Great review, especially the side-by-side teardown.
I think you have an older model 118A. They did a revision where they basically fixed all those issues you mentioned with your 118A and made it more into an 118E. Mine has the better backlight, uses DC as standard instead of AC and the backlight switch instead of auto-off.
interesting, ... I am willing to get the 118A then if the 118E still doesn't have diode forward voltage. does this meter have auto off?, I am bad at forgetting to turn stuff off.
How would we know if the HT118A we buy has those changes? Can't see it till using it. Is there a version/firmware number/manufactured date to look for?
I'm going to wait a little and then get this meter. Like you said it has a few kinks that need ironed out. Still very impressive at 20K counts. I used to work for a metrology company, and we would calibrate laboratory equipment. A 20K count meter would have been really nice for applications like that.
You don't mean 6 1/2, 7 1/2 or 8 1/2 digit meters instead? 20k (4 1/2 digits) count multimeter doesn't really sound like a metrology grade equipment cal device. And nevermind the accuracy and temp coefficient of the device. Of course unless you're calibrating one of those cheap power supplies with 10mV max sensitivity
I really wanted the diode forwarding voltage but also like the 118E counts, so I just bought both, a combo deal both meters for $70, So the 118A does start with DC now and the backlighting also stays on like the 118E, but the 118E still does not do diode forwarding voltage. The Display contrast left to right is better on 118A but looking down from above is not visible, the 118E is better all around but contrast not as sharp left on right angles like the 118A. Thanks for the review!
I still wish they had included a REL button on this iteration, a decent meter like this should have a REL feature especially for use in DC on the bench
Thx my friend 😊 I personally do all of the video editing, camera post/pre production graphics, thumbnails , intros etc myself. It's currently a one man show 😂👍 and Yes, I do plan on doing some instructional videos at some point 👉...
Will be interesting to see what it goes on the market for. Strange that the diode test didn't give a forward voltage, certainly has a high enough test voltage for it to work. Thanks for the review👍👍
Not bad, not bad - starting to get some responses finally on the back light timing - if they beefed up the diode and cap ranges on this one we might see a rare five star cheapo in the future.
Coolness. It has the very important temperature measurement for our GPUs and CPUs (choose a nice temperature lead for it not the braided one, the coiled one). God bless.
Seems like a good choice at that price point for people buying their first multimeter. I've been working with a Kaiweets KM601 which has a large display with the backlight on permanently. The HT118E was my first potential upgrade path, but after doing some research for a few weeks, I settled on a Brymen BM789. 3-4 times the price, but much more reactive, better built, and with actual support provided.
Brymen 789 is very good, but it's also 8-10x the price of the 118E, so not comparable by any means. Most people have no need nor budget for such an expensive multimeter. This was a CHEAP-O Multimeter review after all 👍
I got a Habotest HT118e but, although it looks great and has some cool features like the big LCD, it is not good enough for electronics troubleshooting. Being Continuity and Diode functions separated, you have to keep cicling the button whenever measuring different components in a board. I miss my old Fluke in which you had just to switch to Resistance if you needed a more precise measurement. Couldn't they add both functions together or add the beep to the Diode function, eliminating OL (overload) that helps in nothing, so you could test continuity, diode, transistor, without changing the setup? Another annoying flaw is the dumb timer that is set to turn the meter off after a while, no matter if you are in the middle of a measurement. The Fluke used a smart timer that would start counting only when the meter was idle. Whenever you restarted using it , the timer would reset.
Dear imbecile, just press the "selection" key and at the same time turn it on (Rotate the Rotary scale) the same, you will hear five beeps, from now on it will not turn off! Dear Imbecile!! P.S. What's missing is for people to READ THE MANUAL, but unfortunately they don't. As for Fluke, much of the system is copied from BRYMEN! I hope I helped!
ruclips.net/video/dc6Hx8mU5_0/видео.htmlsi=VoL0OgqPe9vy3Lrr For just a little more and you get Outstanding INPUT Protection and also a great multimeter..
I'd still choose the Kaiweets. The 870 is good but I find it a little slow on some ranges plus the display definitely isn't as nice. That 161E+ 👍 Is an awesome multimeter!
@KeepOnTesting Thanks for your message. I was keen to buy it, but the diode test put me off. Might wait till Astro ai bring out a new 20k count equivalent.
@@Chris-uu6dg It's very close..I was blown away by the VENLAB's performance 😳 I would definitely buy it! If the display count doesn't bother you it's a steal! 👍
Fortunately, the HT118* multimeters use 250V fuses of size 6x30 - so higher rated fuses 6,3x32 should fit? I found ESKA 632.527 and 632.510 (both 500V, fast) for approx €0.60 each when purchasing 10 pieces of each (in Germany). I haven't found 250V ceramic fuses being noticeably cheaper than these ESKA fuses. Therefore, for safety reasons (to prevent arcing at high voltage), I believe it's better to favor these over 250V ceramics.
hi. I am very impressed with your professional review! Clearly, the HT-118E is a top-tier affordable multimeter. But I believe ANENG AN870 has enough to be its competitor. Despite some relative weaknesses (e.g. no dual display), this device presents better paper tolerances in many situations, especially low voltage. Another strength is the REL function (I think this is a very important point!) If you get a chance, it would be a good idea to review it.
Btw, that link I sent you was one of my first reviews over 5 years ago so please 🙏 don't laugh.. My style and techniques have obviously improved since...😅 👍
I had one of these for about a year, when testing the 200 volt rail on a vintage radio the display went black and no longer shows anything, the rail acually only measured on another meter at 180 volts, the fuses are ok in the meter really sad, not sure if this is a good value or not....
@@KeepOnTesting really appreciate the offer, I just bought a new meter and for the price I just scraped the old one, it dosen't mean the meters aren't any good but like they say poo happens, again thanks much.....
Darren I don't know numbers on display were shaky on 118e i don't know anyone observed that.... Diode beep they removed 😳...Also capacitor measurement 118A was better....
Hi Shailesh , Hmm..I didn't catch that shakiness on the digits. They seemed as star as 118A but I'll take another look. Yes the diode / capacitance function definitely needs to be addressed. 👍
Hey, you might be the guy to ask: I cannot hear the audio indicator for continuity on most every DVOM I've ever owned. have some dead frequencies in my hearing range. CAN WE FIND a slightly different tone in the piezo buzzers these things use? I resorted to drilling a hole in the case of one meter to help me hear it. It'd be fantastic if I could just change the tone with a new buzzer. It'd be INCREDIBLY fantastic if the makers would add some tone options. But I know nothing of piezos, do they all make the same tone?
@@KeepOnTesting maybe one could swap out the piezo for a vibration buzzer like cell phones have. That'd be easier to hear. Ham radios with CW (morse code) function allow us to vary the "offset" as a function of frequency. This allows us to HEAR the side-tone at any frequency we need to. It doesn't affect the output at all. But then "entry level" ham rigs are close to 1,000 USD.
wow, almost there, Kaiweets! good job! but what's up with the capacitance and diode fwd voltage readings?! it's already fine on 118A... ☹ if i may to throw some suggestions, it would be : REL button, diode beep (short beep on good readings and continuous beep on shorted). my Richmeters 114 (a.k.a Habotest 118A) has diode beep, but it gives short beep on all readings, whether it's good or shorted... maybe Darren would give it a solid 5 if all that is done... 😁
Dear Sir I want to know one thing. I wanted to buy the Kaiweets multimeter but this one is 200mA while the other one is 600mA now my question is because the Kaiweets multimeter is 200mA will there be any problem in working??
Hey Darren I bought a habotest ht118e (I think same as kaiweets), in first try I installed new batteries and meter give ErrE low voltage error in all mods , I checked voltage of batteries they are fine Do you have any suggestion or I send for warranty ? I love your videos ❤
Howdy friend! First..even though they are new batteries..I would replace with another set..just in case. Still a no go? Then, you can open the case and connect a DC power supply and connect it to the 2 +- power springs on the pcb. Make sure to output 3v and see if the error persists. If it does you can send it to me if you're in North America and I'll fix it or replace it with a brand new unit. Your only cost is shipping one way. Either way..thanks for the kudos ! 😊 👍
@@KeepOnTesting Hı, I have already tried everything you said I tried 2-4v to dirrect pcb But it still give same error. I am in Europe so I will send it back. Thanks for everyhting :)
Great news , I opened the case again and checked nearly all components and soldering And I clean the battery contact with ipa I think problem is bad contact with springs or displaced something or internel short . It's very difficult to close back properly I slowly closed it and hope for best and it's working excellent now but it took me two days to solve this problem, Anyway it's a fantastic dmm it's very accurate. Thanks for great review and your interrest. You are a great man. (And user support of Habotest is terrible and they refused to pay back I won't buy anything from there again) Have a nice day!
20k counts is higher resolution displayed. 6000 count can read up to 5.999 volts.after 6 volts it would show 5.99 so not as precise. 20k display will show 19.999 volts until 20 volts then reduce to 20.00 ..Basically losing 1 digit. More resolution equals more precision.
Hello great review. At around 11 minutes in when you do the continuity test, do you find if you turn on your back light the screen will have a slight flicker when the buzzer activates? I just got mine and I want to make sure its normal. I should note I tested it with a fresh set of batteries and it still dims down a bit when touching the probes together. Thank you!
I was actually about to order the ht118a before I stumpled upon this review. This looks like a straight up upgrade. Only thing missing is the beep on diode mode... Do you think I should just wait or get the ht118a now?
Personally I would grab the 118E now as it's such a nice upgrade. That being said, you can have most of the bells and whistles plus amazing diode performance with a UNI-T UT39E+ ruclips.net/video/qy8B4Y8c0_4/видео.html It's also 20k counts ! 😉 Only downside is its less than stellar display and it's a manual ranging multimeter. Still I would take it in a heartbeat if top notch professional diode performance is your thing.
No worries it won't blow even if you have it switched to DC VOLTS while checking the AC. Automatic in this case simply means it ranges automatically, you still have to select VOLTS, resistance, etc..
Yessir 👍 , the 118A had various incarnations and KAIWEETS was one of the best. The newer KAIWEETS 118E backlight is much improved too. They definitely need to tweak this model though.
Thanks again. How come this HT118E's capacitance (I think EEVblog likes this meter too) specifications starts with 20nF yet on another channel it was able to measure a value in the picoFarads (200pF in that channel)? Shouldn't it not be able to read something lower than 20nF and it'd just indicate OL or a similar reading? Can all multimeters w/ a capacitance function read lower or higher than their specifications including the beautiful, cool & amazing looking Habotest HT116 Smart multimeter (I love how I could long press the Auto red button and it'd go to Auto quickly so I can quickly switch to continuity with one hand or the usual DC voltage, resistance w/ one hand automagically as Steve Jobs would say. I wonder draw what the power draw of the Smart colored LCDs are X-D. Could you include estimates how long the battery will last when used for hours w/ the always ON and when it's just stored in your 2023 videos. Also include lower value capacitors in the picoFarads for your 2023 review, lastly perhaps you could do Part 2 or revision for all the past multimeters, especially your Zotek and the beautiful, amazing, so colorful HT116 either from Kaiweets or Habotest or GDA- I think Kaiweets is the father, since I think they started this cellphone looking cool multimters) The HT118E's capacitance specs: 20nF/200nF/2uF/20uF/200uF/2mF Also for 2023 as an evolution, modify all the multitesters (and variable power supply & scope and other electronic gadgets) to become better, modify proper shielding, modify to have true ground from the metal and knobs, modify subcomponents (LCD to OLED for the amazing, cool, stupendous HT116 :-) I'm glad I was freed from the dial rotary multitester- I hope Fluke makes a huge colored OLED or even better Colored e-Ink for outdoors and take notes from the amazing Kaiweets's innovations, so other branded, very durable brands like Sanwa & Brymen will take notice and so we'll have better displays in the 21st century). I got this mod idea from a channel who reviewed the amazing OLED soldering iron that's affordable- the KSGER brand (it has other names- rebrands), check their AliExpress official site. I highly, very hight recommend this soldering iron- buy their very stylish but very capable silver, very stylish 2 in 1 combo of the SMD hot air (it uses the hot air SMD recommended by EEvblog, whoever is the father manufacturer of that is a cool chinese company like DJI- a rarity in CCP CHN quality) w/ their KSGER soldering iron (buy the black and chrome stylish silicone cord soldering iron- uses Hakko genuine and Hakko clone tips- buy the more than 10 tips for cost-effectiveness but don't go beyond 350 Celsius especially for the bevel and chisel types, unless it's geniuine Hakko tips which can do up to 400C). I wish it was all OLED like the amazing Kezger (may they have colored OLEDs for 2023) or e-Ink. Thank you. 2023 is ours for the taking by God's grace & bestfriend Mother Mary's intercession. God bless, Rev. 21:4
I have one of these meters, and it works very very well. And Sure, I also own a fluke V. But you cant beat it. Problem: Where to find a hang up strap for it? All the Best! 73 DE W8LV BILL (and W8LV/VE3 prepandemic...)
I have the HT118A version, but made by KAIWEETS, not by HABOTEST, and it does in fact default to DC voltage. The screen is also much better on the KAIWEETS version
meny moons ago I told you and sent you a link to a HT118A wich defalted to dc and had permanent back light, think it was nearly 2 years ago you said you would get it ?
How did you open up the case? I saw this video and decided to get myself it for Christmas. Accidentally measured voltage while set to mA and blew the fuse on day 2. Went to open the case, and there's no screws. Worse, the case is tighter than a clamshell it is in no way intended to be taken apart. Contacted them, and they say to send the unit to them to have the fuse replaced they're not user replaceable and they will replace them for up to 3 years after purchase. After the 3 years, I guess they expect you to throw the unit away if you blow a fuse. I was going to just replace the fuse, I'm so upset with the stupidity of these inaccessible non-serviceable units if I can't figure out how to open it without damaging it I'm going to send it back and get a brand you can replace the fuses yourself.
That's a common mistake and fear not, Yes you can open the multimeter to change the fuse. First, you need to remove the rubber boot/sleeve. It's on really tight but it does eventually come off with some effort. Youll need to remove the 4 Philips screws holding the cover on. Then replace the mA fuse with another 6x30mm Ceramic make sure it's at least as high as the 200mA rating. These multimeters are designed to easily replace the fuses. Let me know if that helped!
@@KeepOnTesting Oh my god thank you! And so fast! I didn't know there was a rubber boot/sleeve it looks just like the plastic and fits so tight. That's what I was missing, now I see how the rubber sleeve goes around it and can be removed. Thank you!
@@Clydesdale2045 No problem! I also did a quick how-to on the website if you need more help. 👍 www.keepontesting.com/post/ht118a-e-how-to-change-those-fuses
Kaiweets has evolutionized this multimeter from its less competitive ht118a where habotest had beaten it with their version, still would beat I guess if habo makes a ht118e. How could there be difference, I mean there must be something different habotest does in manufacturing their version. Excellent multimeter I must admit but could be improved by launching the version 2.0 sooner so kaiweets rules this cheap-o realm for years to come as habo does even now with ht118a.
I don't suppose there is any difference between the kaiweets or other brands that seem to be selling the same HT118E . I can safely assume they are all identical ?@@KeepOnTesting
Жаль , что при обзоре HT118E вы не проверили как он себя поведет при подаче постоянного напряжения 1kV . Ваш обзор Habotest HT118A с подключением к нему постоянки в 1kV впечатлил ! Для радиолюбителей занимающихся ламповыми усилителями , высокие напряжения это норма , и данный замер с максимальным напряжением очень полезен. Если есть возможность сделать замер этого напряжение (1kV) вне данного ролика , в результат тестирования я уверенно готов поверить вашим словам. Спасибо за обзор HT118E . Ваш подписчик из России.
@@KeepOnTesting Спасибо, буду ждать результатов. Уверен, что многим радиолюбителям этот замер будет очень полезен. Совсем недавно приобрел такой же мультиметр на AliExpress.
Impressive! It’s almost a flat-out improvement on 118A. Great meter overall. And it checks almost all of your cheap-o boxes. 🙂 I wonder if there will ever be an 118F version for "Finally we made it just right". As always, loved your review. Sorry for missing many of the previous ones. Life's been busy 😉
Again we get 20,000 counts yet still no REL function, kind of a glaring omission on an otherwise very functional meter, I feel a REL function is more desirable than a gimmicky and often intermittently functional NCV function - ive seen many cheaper meters with the REL function
@@barrybogart5436 It's definitely a rare beast. Finding a dmm that also does inductance they are sparse indeed. Here's a few. One of the reviews is almost 5 years old so apologies 😅 Multimeters with Inductance: Mastech MS-8269 ruclips.net/video/0xx_Lfo4T0Q/видео.html HOLDPEAK HP-760C ruclips.net/video/dBuJXOaBlBk/видео.html PROTEK Coming Soon!
The GME RD-300 is a 1% resistance box but this meter shows wrong values : For 100K it shows 108.3K = Fail For 300K it shows 302.1K = Fail For 600K it shows 603.9K =Fail For 1M it shows 1M = OK For 20K it shows 20.58K = Fail For 60K it shows 60.64K = OK Go slow Mr. Walker. Allow some time for it to settle. And standardise your tests across all multimeters please. Thanks for your efforts though.
Do not buy. faulty. Returned 2 I was getting the erratic voltages displayed. And yes I set the meter to AC and press down hard on multiple Outlets. It could have been the test leads. But on two units that would prove bad craftsmanship. I can't believe the bad luck I had with those. Thank you for your concern.
@@KeepOnTesting bought 2, returned 2... neither one would read any of my outlet voltages...I really wanted it to work...went out and bought an Assark for $20 ...even though it's a 6k count... it's perfect for what I need...
@@carlthetruthwilliams9447 Were you getting erratic readings or was there just no voltage being displayed ? It defaults to DC VOLTS as well so you need to select AC Voltage which I'm sure you are already aware of. Also, the default test leads don't like modern AC outlets that have the safety covers , I find you really need to push down hard to get a reading or just change the test leads altogether. 😀
You should have sent it my way ..I would have paid for shipping and given you a free replacement whether needed or not. I haven't seen a bad unit yet and I find 2 from the same source as defective very unusual. Cheers my friend
Not a real upgrade for my HT118A. Only 20.000 counts instead of 6000. I would have seen 20A instead of 10A limit would be great for working on cars. Ill stick with my Habotest HT118A cheapo.
Hello Darren, hello from Kharkov) Buddy, check your mail, I left a message for you. I'm sorry that I did not immediately answer you to your answer to me, upon returning to Kharkov. I express my sincere gratitude to you from the bottom of my heart.
@@Pro100Gadman Can you re-upload the video? The video stops after 16 sec and doesn't restart. I tried downloading it 3x with same results...I'm looking forward to it!
I use PCW02A. the manual says that the backlight only turns off after 10 seconds. it has to be turned off manually for me is it a mistake in the manual ?
UPDATE: Want to see how the HT118E does with 1000 Volts! Of course you do..www.keepontesting.com/post/1000-volts-kaiweets-ht118e
Love that the back light now stays on!! Shows they’re listening. Awesome review 👍
100% Thx Mike!
I just purchased one. I wanted to watch a review on it. I'm a diesel mechanic so I won't be worrying about half the features but definitely feel like a good buy for the dollar. Loved the review thanks.
Awesome to hear Jay! Enjoy the new Multimeter..it's one of the best !
A simple UNI-T 33D+ would have sufficed and lasted very long for your needs. The multimeter presented here is accurate but they dont last long.
I wish they added a "REL" feature. Something like longpressing the "HOLD" button would zero-out the resistance. Great review, especially the side-by-side teardown.
Thx Eric! The REL would be a stellar addition..KAIWEETS I hope you're taking notes 📝 👍
I think you have an older model 118A. They did a revision where they basically fixed all those issues you mentioned with your 118A and made it more into an 118E. Mine has the better backlight, uses DC as standard instead of AC and the backlight switch instead of auto-off.
interesting, ... I am willing to get the 118A then if the 118E still doesn't have diode forward voltage. does this meter have auto off?, I am bad at forgetting to turn stuff off.
@@3dFirefly Drinkyoghust is correct. My 118A also defaults to DC and the backlight stays on.
It has an auto-off of ~7mins.
How would we know if the HT118A we buy has those changes? Can't see it till using it. Is there a version/firmware number/manufactured date to look for?
I'm going to wait a little and then get this meter. Like you said it has a few kinks that need ironed out. Still very impressive at 20K counts. I used to work for a metrology company, and we would calibrate laboratory equipment. A 20K count meter would have been really nice for applications like that.
Definitely in need of optimization but I'm sure Kaiweets will get the 118E on track. Yessir 20k counts is a real treat at this price!
You don't mean 6 1/2, 7 1/2 or 8 1/2 digit meters instead? 20k (4 1/2 digits) count multimeter doesn't really sound like a metrology grade equipment cal device. And nevermind the accuracy and temp coefficient of the device.
Of course unless you're calibrating one of those cheap power supplies with 10mV max sensitivity
I really wanted the diode forwarding voltage but also like the 118E counts, so I just bought both, a combo deal both meters for $70, So the 118A does start with DC now and the backlighting also stays on like the 118E, but the 118E still does not do diode forwarding voltage. The Display contrast left to right is better on 118A but looking down from above is not visible, the 118E is better all around but contrast not as sharp left on right angles like the 118A. Thanks for the review!
Great feedback 👍 Enjoy those multimeters.
A couple of great ones !
I still wish they had included a REL button on this iteration, a decent meter like this should have a REL feature especially for use in DC on the bench
Yes..Yes and YES!! REL shouldn't be missing..hopefully they are listening!
Great beginning! Who does your graphics? That's EPIC!
Did you ever thing of doing calibration or instruction videos?
Thx my friend 😊
I personally do all of the video editing, camera post/pre production graphics, thumbnails , intros etc myself. It's currently a one man show 😂👍 and Yes, I do plan on doing some instructional videos at some point 👉...
The owon ow18e is 20,000 counts 20 amp,and data logging through Bluetooth 👍4.5 digit's ...£ 49 UK
Will be interesting to see what it goes on the market for. Strange that the diode test didn't give a forward voltage, certainly has a high enough test voltage for it to work. Thanks for the review👍👍
Diode test was the most disappointing , I'm sure this will be resolved after an update. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it 👍
When will we know Kaiweets upgraded the HT118E?
Not bad, not bad - starting to get some responses finally on the back light timing - if they beefed up the diode and cap ranges on this one we might see a rare five star cheapo in the future.
Ohhhh thatc5 STARS is way overdue too!
And a few have come SO close --
@@yambo59 oh yeaaaaaa...I really wanted this 118E to be a 5 🌟....
And as eric chang said below this meter really needs a REL button, and it would go well with a bigger Mv range
Thanks for review bro :).
Thx 👍
Hobotest ht118A is still my favorite because of clear display and beep as sound in diode mode
118A is still a great multimeter 👍
Regarding Kaiweets 118E, when it is in diode mode and there is a short, does it make a beep sound?
They both are from the same factory, the brand purchase the item and put their label on it 😂 thats china market
Coolness. It has the very important temperature measurement for our GPUs and CPUs (choose a nice temperature lead for it not the braided one, the coiled one).
God bless.
Great advice 👍 Great multimeter!
Seems like a good choice at that price point for people buying their first multimeter.
I've been working with a Kaiweets KM601 which has a large display with the backlight on permanently. The HT118E was my first potential upgrade path, but after doing some research for a few weeks, I settled on a Brymen BM789. 3-4 times the price, but much more reactive, better built, and with actual support provided.
Brymen 789 is very good, but it's also 8-10x the price of the 118E, so not comparable by any means. Most people have no need nor budget for such an expensive multimeter. This was a CHEAP-O Multimeter review after all 👍
Thanks for the review, I am thinking of getting one.
It's a great multimeter! You won't be disappointed!👍
I got a Habotest HT118e but, although it looks great and has some cool features like the big LCD, it is not good enough for electronics troubleshooting.
Being Continuity and Diode functions separated, you have to keep cicling the button whenever measuring different components in a board.
I miss my old Fluke in which you had just to switch to Resistance if you needed a more precise measurement.
Couldn't they add both functions together or add the beep to the Diode function, eliminating OL (overload) that helps in nothing, so you could test continuity, diode, transistor, without changing the setup?
Another annoying flaw is the dumb timer that is set to turn the meter off after a while, no matter if you are in the middle of a measurement. The Fluke used a smart timer that would start counting only when the meter was idle. Whenever you restarted using it , the timer would reset.
It's definitely not perfect but also 1/10 the price of a Fluke. Still, I agree it has some glaring shortcomings👍
Dear imbecile, just press the "selection" key and at the same time turn it on (Rotate the Rotary scale) the same, you will hear five beeps, from now on it will not turn off! Dear Imbecile!! P.S. What's missing is for people to READ THE MANUAL, but unfortunately they don't. As for Fluke, much of the system is copied from BRYMEN! I hope I helped!
Are there safer alternatives around this price point? One with mobs at least
ruclips.net/video/dc6Hx8mU5_0/видео.htmlsi=VoL0OgqPe9vy3Lrr
For just a little more and you get Outstanding INPUT Protection and also a great multimeter..
I prefer my Uni-T 161e+, but of course it does cost more. But how would you compare the Kaweets to the Aneng 870?
I'd still choose the Kaiweets. The 870 is good but I find it a little slow on some ranges plus the display definitely isn't as nice. That 161E+ 👍 Is an awesome multimeter!
Hi Darren, great review! Do you know if the improved tweaked version is out yet?
Thanks Chris
Many thx...As for tweaked vetsion I doubt it..possibly not until the fall.
@KeepOnTesting Thanks for your message. I was keen to buy it, but the diode test put me off. Might wait till Astro ai bring out a new 20k count equivalent.
@@Chris-uu6dg No problem..btw, Check out the VENLAB VM-600A, ruclips.net/video/bpTUXM1v53I/видео.html
It's a great multimeter too, with A+ DIODE mode.
@KeepOnTesting OK, thanks. I'll take a look at your review of the Venlab. Would you recommend the Venlab over the Kaiweets HT118A ?
Chris.🙂
@@Chris-uu6dg It's very close..I was blown away by the VENLAB's performance 😳 I would definitely buy it! If the display count doesn't bother you it's a steal! 👍
Hi! Thanks for one more cool review!
But why do so many nice multimeters use 250V fuses? Better to replace those by 500V or 1000V fuses?
Good question..honestly it's probably economics..much cheaper to add 250v than a higher rated more expensive fuse.
Fortunately, the HT118* multimeters use 250V fuses of size 6x30 - so higher rated fuses 6,3x32 should fit?
I found ESKA 632.527 and 632.510 (both 500V, fast) for approx €0.60 each when purchasing 10 pieces of each (in Germany).
I haven't found 250V ceramic fuses being noticeably cheaper than these ESKA fuses.
Therefore, for safety reasons (to prevent arcing at high voltage), I believe it's better to favor these over 250V ceramics.
hi. I am very impressed with your professional review! Clearly, the HT-118E is a top-tier affordable multimeter. But I believe ANENG AN870 has enough to be its competitor. Despite some relative weaknesses (e.g. no dual display), this device presents better paper tolerances in many situations, especially low voltage. Another strength is the REL function (I think this is a very important point!) If you get a chance, it would be a good idea to review it.
Thx my friend, I actually reviewed that meyrr but branded as a RICHMETERS RM219 ... ruclips.net/video/z5TeifiQc2U/видео.htmlsi=-WAsUAME4TQ3M5fO
Btw, that link I sent you was one of my first reviews over 5 years ago so please 🙏 don't laugh..
My style and techniques have obviously improved since...😅 👍
Is the Kaiweets HT118E the same as the Habotest HT118E? They look identical.
Similar.. but I believe there is a firmware upgrade in the Kaiweets
whats the main diffs between that their HT113 which ive had for years, and looks essentially identical?
Higher resolution 20,000 count as opposed to 6000, illuminated inputs,illuminated high current/voltage alerts
I had one of these for about a year, when testing the 200 volt rail on a vintage radio the display went black and no longer shows anything, the rail acually only measured on another meter at 180 volts, the fuses are ok in the meter really sad, not sure if this is a good value or not....
That's too bad..they are pretty resilient multimeters in most cases. Might be a simple fix. If you can ship the unit to me, I'll send you a new one!
@@KeepOnTesting really appreciate the offer, I just bought a new meter and for the price I just scraped the old one, it dosen't mean the meters aren't any good but like they say poo happens, again thanks much.....
@@chesterbuck1841 Great to hear Chester 👍 Keep On Testing!
Darren I don't know numbers on display were shaky on 118e i don't know anyone observed that.... Diode beep they removed 😳...Also capacitor measurement 118A was better....
Hi Shailesh , Hmm..I didn't catch that shakiness on the digits. They seemed as star as 118A but I'll take another look. Yes the diode / capacitance function definitely needs to be addressed. 👍
@@KeepOnTesting ❤️
Just a follow-up, the shakiness was probably video related as there's absolutely no issue while looking at the display. 👍
Hey, you might be the guy to ask: I cannot hear the audio indicator for continuity on most every DVOM I've ever owned. have some dead frequencies in my hearing range. CAN WE FIND a slightly different tone in the piezo buzzers these things use? I resorted to drilling a hole in the case of one meter to help me hear it. It'd be fantastic if I could just change the tone with a new buzzer. It'd be INCREDIBLY fantastic if the makers would add some tone options.
But I know nothing of piezos, do they all make the same tone?
Great question..👍 unfortunately, piezos run at a set frequency, so most sound alike. I do like your idea about customisation..that would be awesome!
@@KeepOnTesting maybe one could swap out the piezo for a vibration buzzer like cell phones have. That'd be easier to hear. Ham radios with CW (morse code) function allow us to vary the "offset" as a function of frequency. This allows us to HEAR the side-tone at any frequency we need to. It doesn't affect the output at all. But then "entry level" ham rigs are close to 1,000 USD.
Is this better than Zotek Zt-Y?
Yes !😊
Great and enjoyable reviews! How does the HT118E compare to the Owon OW18E? You reviewed that one some years ago.
HT118E by a notch.. I'd say the Owon is slightly better built but the 118E wins with better performance 👏
Thanks for your reply! With performance, you mean better accuracy and measurment speed?
Your thoughts on the UNI-T UT60BT?
I have one on order should be here by end of month!
wow, almost there, Kaiweets! good job! but what's up with the capacitance and diode fwd voltage readings?! it's already fine on 118A... ☹
if i may to throw some suggestions, it would be : REL button, diode beep (short beep on good readings and continuous beep on shorted).
my Richmeters 114 (a.k.a Habotest 118A) has diode beep, but it gives short beep on all readings, whether it's good or shorted...
maybe Darren would give it a solid 5 if all that is done... 😁
Oh yea, that would definitely make the 118E a 5 star ! 👍
@@KeepOnTesting this 118E is awesome! let's hope Kaiweets/Habotest/Richmeters hear us once again, for version 2! 🤩
Dear Sir I want to know one thing.
I wanted to buy the Kaiweets multimeter but this one is 200mA while the other one is 600mA now my question is because the Kaiweets multimeter is 200mA will there be any problem in working??
No problem at all my friend..it will do mA just fine.. 👍
Diode mode has no beep function?
No beep in diode mode.
@@KeepOnTesting hmmmm... answer from Kaiweets
"sure, have it "
@@DeanZ Not on the 118E, not yet anyway.
Hey Darren I bought a habotest ht118e (I think same as kaiweets), in first try I installed new batteries and meter give ErrE low voltage error in all mods , I checked voltage of batteries they are fine Do you have any suggestion or I send for warranty ? I love your videos ❤
Howdy friend! First..even though they are new batteries..I would replace with another set..just in case. Still a no go? Then, you can open the case and connect a DC power supply and connect it to the 2 +- power springs on the pcb. Make sure to output 3v and see if the error persists.
If it does you can send it to me if you're in North America and I'll fix it or replace it with a brand new unit. Your only cost is shipping one way. Either way..thanks for the kudos ! 😊 👍
@@KeepOnTesting Hı, I have already tried everything you said I tried 2-4v to dirrect pcb But it still give same error. I am in Europe so I will send it back. Thanks for everyhting :)
@ebubekir2942 ok my friend..let me know how you make out.
Great news , I opened the case again and checked nearly all components and soldering And I clean the battery contact with ipa I think problem is bad contact with springs or displaced something or internel short . It's very difficult to close back properly I slowly closed it and hope for best and it's working excellent now but it took me two days to solve this problem, Anyway it's a fantastic dmm it's very accurate. Thanks for great review and your interrest. You are a great man. (And user support of Habotest is terrible and they refused to pay back I won't buy anything from there again) Have a nice day!
@@ebubekirtasci0638That's excellent news! Glad it's working again. Sorry HABOTEST support was so terrible. KeepOnTesting! 😃👍
Meter-man! How about a vid-on installing shielding correctly, some people do get that wrong!..
That's a great idea ! 👍
Thanks for the review. A question here for you, umm what's the difference between 20000 counts and 6000 counts?
20k counts is higher resolution displayed.
6000 count can read up to 5.999 volts.after 6 volts it would show 5.99 so not as precise.
20k display will show 19.999 volts until 20 volts then reduce to 20.00 ..Basically losing 1 digit. More resolution equals more precision.
@@KeepOnTesting Understood, Thanks for the feedback.
When do you think they will release a firmware update?
I doubt anytime soon..probably 6 mos to a year.
Hello great review. At around 11 minutes in when you do the continuity test, do you find if you turn on your back light the screen will have a slight flicker when the buzzer activates? I just got mine and I want to make sure its normal. I should note I tested it with a fresh set of batteries and it still dims down a bit when touching the probes together. Thank you!
Thanks! Very slight flicker is noticeable yes but just barely...hope that helps
I was actually about to order the ht118a before I stumpled upon this review. This looks like a straight up upgrade. Only thing missing is the beep on diode mode... Do you think I should just wait or get the ht118a now?
Personally I would grab the 118E now as it's such a nice upgrade. That being said, you can have most of the bells and whistles plus amazing diode performance with a UNI-T UT39E+ ruclips.net/video/qy8B4Y8c0_4/видео.html
It's also 20k counts ! 😉 Only downside is its less than stellar display and it's a manual ranging multimeter. Still I would take it in a heartbeat if top notch professional diode performance is your thing.
Which tester will show capacitance of audio crossover capacitors?
Any multimeter that has capacitance capability will work. Your best bet is to use an LCR METER so you can find a capacitor with low esr.
@@KeepOnTesting Perfect , thank you. Yes it is lower esr i was looking for and didn’t know what it was called.
Really cool videos. ✅
Hello. In Voltage, its automatic AC/DC? I mean... If I turn it on in DC, plug into my wall (Ac) its gonna blow or change to AC automatically?
No worries it won't blow even if you have it switched to DC VOLTS while checking the AC. Automatic in this case simply means it ranges automatically, you still have to select VOLTS, resistance, etc..
The kaiweets 118a defaults to dc volts and the backlight stays on.
Yessir 👍 , the 118A had various incarnations and KAIWEETS was one of the best. The newer KAIWEETS 118E backlight is much improved too. They definitely need to tweak this model though.
I will treat myself to one when they are available😀
I still love my ht118a and this is enough for me 🙂
Thanks again. How come this HT118E's capacitance (I think EEVblog likes this meter too) specifications starts with 20nF yet on another channel it was able to measure a value in the picoFarads (200pF in that channel)? Shouldn't it not be able to read something lower than 20nF and it'd just indicate OL or a similar reading?
Can all multimeters w/ a capacitance function read lower or higher than their specifications including the beautiful, cool & amazing looking Habotest HT116 Smart multimeter (I love how I could long press the Auto red button and it'd go to Auto quickly so I can quickly switch to continuity with one hand or the usual DC voltage, resistance w/ one hand automagically as Steve Jobs would say. I wonder draw what the power draw of the Smart colored LCDs are X-D. Could you include estimates how long the battery will last when used for hours w/ the always ON and when it's just stored in your 2023 videos. Also include lower value capacitors in the picoFarads for your 2023 review, lastly perhaps you could do Part 2 or revision for all the past multimeters, especially your Zotek and the beautiful, amazing, so colorful HT116 either from Kaiweets or Habotest or GDA- I think Kaiweets is the father, since I think they started this cellphone looking cool multimters)
The HT118E's capacitance specs:
20nF/200nF/2uF/20uF/200uF/2mF
Also for 2023 as an evolution, modify all the multitesters (and variable power supply & scope and other electronic gadgets) to become better, modify proper shielding, modify to have true ground from the metal and knobs, modify subcomponents (LCD to OLED for the amazing, cool, stupendous HT116 :-) I'm glad I was freed from the dial rotary multitester- I hope Fluke makes a huge colored OLED or even better Colored e-Ink for outdoors and take notes from the amazing Kaiweets's innovations, so other branded, very durable brands like Sanwa & Brymen will take notice and so we'll have better displays in the 21st century). I got this mod idea from a channel who reviewed the amazing OLED soldering iron that's affordable- the KSGER brand (it has other names- rebrands), check their AliExpress official site. I highly, very hight recommend this soldering iron- buy their very stylish but very capable silver, very stylish 2 in 1 combo of the SMD hot air (it uses the hot air SMD recommended by EEvblog, whoever is the father manufacturer of that is a cool chinese company like DJI- a rarity in CCP CHN quality) w/ their KSGER soldering iron (buy the black and chrome stylish silicone cord soldering iron- uses Hakko genuine and Hakko clone tips- buy the more than 10 tips for cost-effectiveness but don't go beyond 350 Celsius especially for the bevel and chisel types, unless it's geniuine Hakko tips which can do up to 400C).
I wish it was all OLED like the amazing Kezger (may they have colored OLEDs for 2023) or e-Ink.
Thank you. 2023 is ours for the taking by God's grace & bestfriend Mother Mary's intercession.
God bless, Rev. 21:4
You touched on some great 👉 points..
I've got sone great soldering station reviews coming up..think you might like them!
I have one of these meters, and it works very very well. And Sure, I also own a fluke V. But you cant beat it. Problem: Where to find a hang up strap for it? All the Best! 73 DE W8LV BILL (and W8LV/VE3 prepandemic...)
I have the HT118A version, but made by KAIWEETS, not by HABOTEST, and it does in fact default to DC voltage. The screen is also much better on the KAIWEETS version
Agreed...KAIWEETS is slightly better all around
Darren podrias hacer la revicion de el multimetro mestek DM100C es un multimetro hibrido y dicen que es excelente
Yes sir 👍 Hopefully in July !
meny moons ago I told you and sent you a link to a HT118A wich defalted to dc and had permanent back light, think it was nearly 2 years ago you said you would get it ?
How did you open up the case? I saw this video and decided to get myself it for Christmas. Accidentally measured voltage while set to mA and blew the fuse on day 2. Went to open the case, and there's no screws. Worse, the case is tighter than a clamshell it is in no way intended to be taken apart. Contacted them, and they say to send the unit to them to have the fuse replaced they're not user replaceable and they will replace them for up to 3 years after purchase. After the 3 years, I guess they expect you to throw the unit away if you blow a fuse. I was going to just replace the fuse, I'm so upset with the stupidity of these inaccessible non-serviceable units if I can't figure out how to open it without damaging it I'm going to send it back and get a brand you can replace the fuses yourself.
That's a common mistake and fear not, Yes you can open the multimeter to change the fuse. First, you need to remove the rubber boot/sleeve. It's on really tight but it does eventually come off with some effort. Youll need to remove the 4 Philips screws holding the cover on. Then replace the mA fuse with another 6x30mm Ceramic make sure it's at least as high as the 200mA rating. These multimeters are designed to easily replace the fuses. Let me know if that helped!
@@KeepOnTesting Oh my god thank you! And so fast! I didn't know there was a rubber boot/sleeve it looks just like the plastic and fits so tight. That's what I was missing, now I see how the rubber sleeve goes around it and can be removed. Thank you!
@@Clydesdale2045 No problem! I also did a quick how-to on the website if you need more help. 👍 www.keepontesting.com/post/ht118a-e-how-to-change-those-fuses
Kaiweets has evolutionized this multimeter from its less competitive ht118a where habotest had beaten it with their version, still would beat I guess if habo makes a ht118e. How could there be difference, I mean there must be something different habotest does in manufacturing their version. Excellent multimeter I must admit but could be improved by launching the version 2.0 sooner so kaiweets rules this cheap-o realm for years to come as habo does even now with ht118a.
Loving the vibe! Yes my man👍 KAIWEETS has a winner here..some tweaks and lookout !
Very, very good review!!!!!!!! But 4,5 stars?????
I was definitely being generous! 😃
I'm hoping they can fix the glitches and this will definitely be hard to beat !
Интересно, есть ли "бип" на прозвонке диодов?
нет звука на диоде ..😅
@@KeepOnTesting Очень благодарен за ответ. Вы добрый человек.
I guess there is no "range" function for manual use.
Unfortunately no range function my friend 😪
Thisone vs the ANENG SZ20 which one to get ?
The Kaiweets 👍
I don't suppose there is any difference between the kaiweets or other brands that seem to be selling the same HT118E . I can safely assume they are all identical ?@@KeepOnTesting
@@MrMastadox Mostly identical.. slight firmware revisions. KAIWEETS has the best support.
This or the Venlab VM600A/VM600M?
This is still the better deal but the Venlab is still a fantastic dmm if you don't need all the bells and whistles. 👍
@@KeepOnTesting Well that was a quick answer.. Thanks! Also, I like your style of review, very cool👌 In the words of Ray Liotta, you are a funny guy
@@magnusstrongwill9364 Thx Magnus! Appreciate the feedback. Ray Liotta was a smart man.. 😃👍
i think the habotest 118E is much better than kaiweets 118E and i guess habotest is the OEM 🤔
I have HT118A "amazing".
Just not as "amazing" as the HT118E 😊
you should still compare with квт proline kt118a!)
Жаль , что при обзоре HT118E вы не проверили как он себя поведет при подаче постоянного напряжения 1kV . Ваш обзор Habotest HT118A с подключением к нему постоянки в 1kV впечатлил ! Для радиолюбителей занимающихся ламповыми усилителями , высокие напряжения это норма , и данный замер с максимальным напряжением очень полезен. Если есть возможность сделать замер этого напряжение (1kV) вне данного ролика , в результат тестирования я уверенно готов поверить вашим словам. Спасибо за обзор HT118E . Ваш подписчик из России.
Yes, I should have repeated the same 1Kv test..I'll do it this weekend and let you know. 👍
@@KeepOnTesting
Спасибо, буду ждать результатов. Уверен, что многим радиолюбителям этот замер будет очень полезен. Совсем недавно приобрел такой же мультиметр на AliExpress.
@@beyond2268 drive.google.com/file/d/1CNjkNZ9ITNeZmjJZi8TnXCMCL731uN0E/view?usp=sharing
What's swiss about a banjo? lol... Keep on testing!
Come one Swiss like the Banjo too🥳 Cheers my friend!
Impressive! It’s almost a flat-out improvement on 118A. Great meter overall. And it checks almost all of your cheap-o boxes. 🙂
I wonder if there will ever be an 118F version for "Finally we made it just right".
As always, loved your review. Sorry for missing many of the previous ones. Life's been busy 😉
Hey NE nice to see you.. 👀 😉 118F ..
I LIKE THAT!! 👍 Better diode performance, Rel button and it still won't be perfect but I'll give it 5 stars !
beat the 118a?
Yes 👍
@@KeepOnTesting I took off 0.5 star for the capacitance measurement (i need it to be accurate).
@@hatmatrix4376 Roger that
millifarad??
Again we get 20,000 counts yet still no REL function, kind of a glaring omission on an otherwise very functional meter, I feel a REL function is more desirable than a gimmicky and often intermittently functional NCV function - ive seen many cheaper meters with the REL function
the kaiweets 118a light stay on until you turn them off and it also default to DC volt so it is different than habotest version
Still no option to measure inductance.
I think a standalone LCR METER is best suited to that specific test environment. That would be something though !
The only ones that I know that do that are the old Amprobe 37 and 38's. I just use a B&K LCR meter. You need to specify the frequency anyway.
@@barrybogart5436 It's definitely a rare beast. Finding a dmm that also does inductance they are sparse indeed. Here's a few.
One of the reviews is almost 5 years old so apologies 😅 Multimeters with Inductance:
Mastech MS-8269
ruclips.net/video/0xx_Lfo4T0Q/видео.html
HOLDPEAK HP-760C ruclips.net/video/dBuJXOaBlBk/видео.html
PROTEK
Coming Soon!
The GME RD-300 is a 1% resistance box but this meter shows wrong values :
For 100K it shows 108.3K = Fail
For 300K it shows 302.1K = Fail
For 600K it shows 603.9K =Fail
For 1M it shows 1M = OK
For 20K it shows 20.58K = Fail
For 60K it shows 60.64K = OK
Go slow Mr. Walker. Allow some time for it to settle. And standardise your tests across all multimeters please.
Thanks for your efforts though.
Do not buy. faulty. Returned 2 I was getting the erratic voltages displayed. And yes I set the meter to AC and press down hard on multiple Outlets. It could have been the test leads. But on two units that would prove bad craftsmanship. I can't believe the bad luck I had with those. Thank you for your concern.
What was the issue? I've yet to hear of any major problems affecting the 118E...
@@KeepOnTesting bought 2, returned 2...
neither one would read any of my outlet voltages...I really wanted it to work...went out and bought an Assark for $20 ...even though it's a 6k count... it's perfect for what I need...
@@carlthetruthwilliams9447 Were you getting erratic readings or was there just no voltage being displayed ? It defaults to DC VOLTS as well so you need to select AC Voltage which I'm sure you are already aware of. Also, the default test leads don't like modern AC outlets that have the safety covers , I find you really need to push down hard to get a reading or just change the test leads altogether. 😀
You should have sent it my way ..I would have paid for shipping and given you a free replacement whether needed or not. I haven't seen a bad unit yet and I find 2 from the same source as defective very unusual. Cheers my friend
@@KeepOnTesting Thanks for your kind words and ad I known of your generous offer, I would have taken you up on it... Cheers to you...
Come on viewers 9 views and only 1 like, at least hit that like button.
I originally planned to air this as a Premier for this Friday but I decided to just post as early as possible because of the holidays 😅
All new kaiweet Cheap-o.... 😳
OH Yeaaaa! 😃
👍
Not a real upgrade for my HT118A. Only 20.000 counts instead of 6000. I would have seen 20A instead of 10A limit would be great for working on cars. Ill stick with my Habotest HT118A cheapo.
No worries..118A is still an awesome multimeter! 👍
You do realise that the rapid tapping you do with continuity test is completely useless?...
How? It either latches or is delayed.. To long a delay is useless for many.
Hello Darren, hello from Kharkov) Buddy, check your mail, I left a message for you.
I'm sorry that I did not immediately answer you to your answer to me, upon returning to Kharkov. I express my sincere gratitude to you from the bottom of my heart.
Hello my friend! Yes I received and sent you a reply..Slava Ukraini ! 🇨🇦 🇺🇦
@@KeepOnTesting How do you like the video that I uploaded in that message?))
@@Pro100Gadman Can you re-upload the video? The video stops after 16 sec and doesn't restart. I tried downloading it 3x with same results...I'm looking forward to it!
@@KeepOnTesting I shared the link and sent it to the mail) Try it)
@@KeepOnTesting Well, how, Darren, was he able to watch or does he still not want to load it?
I use PCW02A.
the manual says that the backlight only turns off after 10 seconds.
it has to be turned off manually for me
is it a mistake in the manual ?
Well that's a bonus! Later revisions enabled permanent backlight so you probably have a more recent version.
actuallly both is same only different on brand name, business strategy by china
Kaiweets has better customer support/warranty