This is a heck of a job to do yourself & doing it on the ground. I just replaced both my front lower control arms at the body shop I work at on a twin post. Them motor mounts are a real pita
Pro TIp don't remove the A arms before you attempt to remove the ball joint. It just swings around. I wasn't able to get my ball joints off, the way they designed the castle nut being so close to the CV boot you can only get an open end of the wrench onto it, I cannot believe that I am the only one who has the problem of stripping the castle nut. I ended up using an angle grinder, cut off the bolt head and the BJ still wouldn't come off beating on it with a pickle fork and sledge hammer! A torch and 3 hours later I just gave up and took it to a mechanic. What a badly designed critical piece of the suspension...I am never going to mess with ball joint replacement ever again, just sell the vehicle and make the next guy deal with it
I had the same problem. I was able to use an open end wrench on one side but the other side the nut started to round. You can either take the CV axle out or look up a Honda motorcycle wrench Honda 89219-KWW-601 - WRENCH EYE (19MM). This wrench and a short pipe on the end would do the trick. I also didn't have much luck with pickle fork but the ball joint separator had just enough clearance to get in between the CV axle and the ball joint stud.
Thanks for the video - so to clarify (from something you said right at the end) - is it possible to replace JUST the bushings themselves? Is any labor saved in that case? Or maybe doing that needs as much or more work? Thanks again.
3 actually. There is one in front near the radiator. Not sure if I showed that one or not . It’s been a while. Sorry also it doesn’t need to move much.
good afternoon dear friend, excellent work that you have really done yes! but now I have a problem, I did the whole process like you did and everything worked perfectly, I took advantage and changed the shock absorbers and everything worked fine for about 15 miles. Now it turns out that when I got to my house the car turns off. When I turn it on, if I don't accelerate it, it turns off all at once, and I can't drive while keeping it accelerated. I would like you to help me PLEASE PLEASE. IT HAS ALL OIL LEVELS WELL AND IT WAS NOT BENDING OR BROKEN SOMETHING. I DON'T UNDERSTAND BECAUSE IT DOES NOT STAY ON. PLEASE HELP.
The power does not stay on or the control arm does stay on? (Might help to rephrase what you are asking) If its a power issue, could be your battery or alternator. very familiar with toyota highlander vehicles so happy to help where I can.
Craig H - only thing I can think is he disconnected the battery and reset the computer statistics. The idle control that needs to relearn the low end idle and that just needs to be driven around in order for it to do it. When idling you may need to put the accelerator on a little bit for a few minutes just to keep it from stalling
@@condor5635 even still, with a relearn, it should not stall the engine however erratic it may be at first. Also a vacuum line could mess with it by throwing the engine off, but again, not so much to cause a stall. I think there needs to be clarity around whether the engine or power is cutting out first
I know this is getting old now, but I'm curious how you got your wrench over the ball joint's castle nut that sits under the axle. Did you have to just jam that thing in there? There isn't enough clearance on mine to get my closed end wrench to fit.
You can also remove the lower ball joint and take off the entire knuckle if you need to get an impact wrench or something bigger. It’s a lot more work though so this is worst case scenario. The lower ball joint can be removed with the knuckle by removing the 3 bolts holding it on
Crazy bro... Your in Texas, I'm in okc. Your car is from NY My car is from NY Your car is a 09 highlander My car is a 09 highlander... Is yours from Albany NY? And awd?
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad I didn't see your full message on the notification I was like 35min hmm must be toga area. Ever go to that pizza place just off the main strip? Go down the hill/side street and get a doughboy?
Too bad you didn't show how you got the driver side motor mount up out of the way. The transfer case hits the steering rack and doesn't allow the engine/trans to go high enough.
I believe he has a 2WD. A 2WD Highlander is only front-drive. That problem is only with the 4WD. I'm planning to do it on my RX330 4WD by loosening the mount's bolts and jack up the engine just high enough to slide a 22mm box-end wrench like in this video. No problem on the passenger side since the engine is attached to the mount by a removable bracket. 👉Passanger side: ruclips.net/video/vAvxadJsV0s/видео.html 👉Driver side: ruclips.net/video/1ox5_CysCC0/видео.html These are the same processes on the Highlander, RX, Sienna, Camry, ...etc.
@@passZword that's how I did it. Got the engine/trans as high as in could and used a box end wrench. The control arm did come free with some wiggling and a hammer. Really annoying though lol. The left side motor mount has an excessively long stud coming out the top for the upper nut. If i had a cut off wheel, i might have cut most of it away while the nut was still on. Taking the nut off would then correct the threads. This extra room may have allowed the mount to come out completely.
@@WarMachine550 I'm happy it worked for you. I think that excessively long stud on the left side motor mount can be completely unscrewed and pulled out using a counter screw or other means. This is based on the replacement motor mount that comes with a non-attached long stud. I will work on mine next week when I receive my replacement parts.
What symptoms did the car have that made you want to change the entire LC arm assembly? Curious bc my 2011 Highlander SE with 240K miles wobbles & wiggles when you accelerate at any speed. Is it possible I need new LC arms, too?
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad Awesome. I have read the drivers side with AWD can be a challenge with transfer case. Did you experience any issues with transfer case?
This is a heck of a job to do yourself & doing it on the ground. I just replaced both my front lower control arms at the body shop I work at on a twin post. Them motor mounts are a real pita
I may or may not have said a few choice words during the replacement
Most descriptive video I’ve seen. Now i feel confident enough to do this myself. Thanks a bunch!!!
Pro TIp don't remove the A arms before you attempt to remove the ball joint. It just swings around. I wasn't able to get my ball joints off, the way they designed the castle nut being so close to the CV boot you can only get an open end of the wrench onto it, I cannot believe that I am the only one who has the problem of stripping the castle nut. I ended up using an angle grinder, cut off the bolt head and the BJ still wouldn't come off beating on it with a pickle fork and sledge hammer! A torch and 3 hours later I just gave up and took it to a mechanic. What a badly designed critical piece of the suspension...I am never going to mess with ball joint replacement ever again, just sell the vehicle and make the next guy deal with it
I had the same problem. I was able to use an open end wrench on one side but the other side the nut started to round. You can either take the CV axle out or look up a Honda motorcycle wrench Honda 89219-KWW-601 - WRENCH EYE (19MM). This wrench and a short pipe on the end would do the trick. I also didn't have much luck with pickle fork but the ball joint separator had just enough clearance to get in between the CV axle and the ball joint stud.
Researching to replace mine and sheesh this seems like a pain, my 03 sequoia suspension was an absolute piece of cake to work on compared to this😳
Excellent thanks for posting!!
Thank you for this video! I was considering doing it myself, but now I'll probably pass, for now
Thank you 💪
Thank you! Any idea how long the passenger side took?
Is there anywhere else I can support and lift the engine without jacking the oil pan?
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for the video - so to clarify (from something you said right at the end) - is it possible to replace JUST the bushings themselves? Is any labor saved in that case? Or maybe doing that needs as much or more work? Thanks again.
Might as well replace the whole thing.
To replace the bushing the arms has to come off anyway so might as well just replace the entire thing
@@RSTEMthanks
it takes about 30 mins to take the subframe out ive done plenty of them rather than fighting the mounts
correction thats if you have a car lift lol
The ball joint never goes bad on these toyotas
Thanks for doing that
when you unbolted the A Arm did the shocks push the wheel way down? Did you have to use a spring decompresser?
I didn’t see the first motor mount get taken off ?? 🤨
I replaced both of mine now i here a popping noise coming from the front wen hit bumps .do you need to tighten bolts while car is on the floor
The shop Tell me is 10 hours job and they have to take a lot of things out is it true
Hi great video! what part number you bought I have a Toyota Highlander hybrid 2010 with the same problem I appreciate I you could help me
How you remove the other side where its on the transmission? Not a piece you can take off
do u have video of passenger side
How long did the drivers side take to do
You only had to take off motor mount on one side to jack up motor?
3 actually. There is one in front near the radiator. Not sure if I showed that one or not . It’s been a while. Sorry also it doesn’t need to move much.
good afternoon dear friend, excellent work that you have really done yes!
but now I have a problem, I did the whole process like you did and everything worked perfectly, I took advantage and changed the shock absorbers and everything worked fine for about 15 miles.
Now it turns out that when I got to my house the car turns off.
When I turn it on, if I don't accelerate it, it turns off all at once, and I can't drive while keeping it accelerated.
I would like you to help me PLEASE PLEASE.
IT HAS ALL OIL LEVELS WELL AND IT WAS NOT BENDING OR BROKEN SOMETHING.
I DON'T UNDERSTAND BECAUSE IT DOES NOT STAY ON.
PLEASE HELP.
The power does not stay on or the control arm does stay on? (Might help to rephrase what you are asking) If its a power issue, could be your battery or alternator. very familiar with toyota highlander vehicles so happy to help where I can.
Craig H - only thing I can think is he disconnected the battery and reset the computer statistics. The idle control that needs to relearn the low end idle and that just needs to be driven around in order for it to do it. When idling you may need to put the accelerator on a little bit for a few minutes just to keep it from stalling
Or you somehow unplugged a vaccuum line or maf sensor
Do you have a check engine light that came on because of this? That would tell us a ton.
@@condor5635 even still, with a relearn, it should not stall the engine however erratic it may be at first. Also a vacuum line could mess with it by throwing the engine off, but again, not so much to cause a stall. I think there needs to be clarity around whether the engine or power is cutting out first
I know this is getting old now, but I'm curious how you got your wrench over the ball joint's castle nut that sits under the axle. Did you have to just jam that thing in there? There isn't enough clearance on mine to get my closed end wrench to fit.
I used an open end wrench.
You can also remove the lower ball joint and take off the entire knuckle if you need to get an impact wrench or something bigger. It’s a lot more work though so this is worst case scenario. The lower ball joint can be removed with the knuckle by removing the 3 bolts holding it on
Crazy bro...
Your in Texas, I'm in okc.
Your car is from NY
My car is from NY
Your car is a 09 highlander
My car is a 09 highlander...
Is yours from Albany NY? And awd?
About 35 min north of Albany in Saratoga and yes it’s awd lol
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad I didn't see your full message on the notification I was like 35min hmm must be toga area.
Ever go to that pizza place just off the main strip? Go down the hill/side street and get a doughboy?
No I lived in Glens Falls and rarely went into Saratoga. I did buy my highlander there though.
How long did this take you to do? Considering whether or not to do it
It’s been a while but I vaguely remember spending a whole afternoon working on it. It’s not a quick repair. I also did both sides at the same time.
Ok I just need to do one side at the moment
Too bad you didn't show how you got the driver side motor mount up out of the way. The transfer case hits the steering rack and doesn't allow the engine/trans to go high enough.
I believe he has a 2WD. A 2WD Highlander is only front-drive. That problem is only with the 4WD. I'm planning to do it on my RX330 4WD by loosening the mount's bolts and jack up the engine just high enough to slide a 22mm box-end wrench like in this video. No problem on the passenger side since the engine is attached to the mount by a removable bracket.
👉Passanger side: ruclips.net/video/vAvxadJsV0s/видео.html
👉Driver side: ruclips.net/video/1ox5_CysCC0/видео.html
These are the same processes on the Highlander, RX, Sienna, Camry, ...etc.
@@passZword that's how I did it. Got the engine/trans as high as in could and used a box end wrench. The control arm did come free with some wiggling and a hammer. Really annoying though lol.
The left side motor mount has an excessively long stud coming out the top for the upper nut. If i had a cut off wheel, i might have cut most of it away while the nut was still on. Taking the nut off would then correct the threads. This extra room may have allowed the mount to come out completely.
@@WarMachine550 I'm happy it worked for you. I think that excessively long stud on the left side motor mount can be completely unscrewed and pulled out using a counter screw or other means. This is based on the replacement motor mount that comes with a non-attached long stud. I will work on mine next week when I receive my replacement parts.
i used a pair of pliers and unthreaded the top bolt, completely removing it. makes it very easy to remove engine mount
What symptoms did the car have that made you want to change the entire LC arm assembly? Curious bc my 2011 Highlander SE with 240K miles wobbles & wiggles when you accelerate at any speed. Is it possible I need new LC arms, too?
Yea I had the same symptoms.
Is this the awd highlander?
Yes
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad Did you also do the driver side?
I did both sides
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad Awesome. I have read the drivers side with AWD can be a challenge with transfer case. Did you experience any issues with transfer case?
@@carsurvivalist no it was easier than the passenger side imo.
Where’d you buy part
I buy almost all my parts from rockauto.com