Please help PLease please..... I have a bosch HEI7282U/09 Problem - Conv Broil, conv Roast, broil does not heat up (very slow) - Bake works fine - Conv Fan works Work Done - Replaced back round element (new=56 ohms, no Continuity), seller says that is the expected range - Replaced Top Element (new=17.5 ohms, good continuity) What should could be the problem? Many thanks
@@Asian_Connection Thanks for watching. It's always good to double check all the wire terminals to make sure that they are secure and are not corroded. If you've replaced the broil element on top, and the broil setting isn't working properly then the only thing left is the control board. It could be an issue with the relay on the control board for the broil element. During broil, only the broil element is used to brown the top of the food, so it works in isolation. It isn't involved much in baking so that's why your bake setting is still working. Control boards are easy to replace but aren't easily tested. If you've eliminated everything else then it's best to install a new one. You can see how to do this here: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html
@AMRE Supply Is there a way to just fix a bracelet? I pushed the on button to hard I guess, so now when I turn on the oven 1 side pushes inward and there's a gap.
Thank You. Our oven shuts off by itself while in operation. A sharp blow to the area around the bake switch brings it back on. You have given me the knowledge of where to first look for a loose connection or, if that doesn't work, to go ahead and replace the control board.
Thanks for the excellent video. This made it easy to diagnose the problem and fix my oven! Also thanks to Karen at the Richmond, BC store for the advice to use a blow dryer to heat up the overlay to make it easier to peel off.
You're welcome Fred! We're just happy to help both here on RUclips as well as in store! Thank you for sharing your experience, I'll pass on this comment to Karen as well!
Thanks in a million. Great content. Awesome. Very well explained. I couldn't find this explanation--simply put anywhere else. Great teachers are hard to find. Grade: A++💥
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! I think you might find some of our other videos helpful especially this playlist on "How it Works" ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
Thanks your video helped me to replace the control board and repair our ge range .In our case a mouse had gotten in the electric burner control and had grounded out. The wires had checked out good so I examined the control board and it was discolored but barely visible but that was the problem. So we ordered the part and replaced . Thanks again
Really helpful and thank you. I have a doubt. The first slot (connecting to yellow wire fried in my stove) . It is the part which you are removing at 3:06 in the video. So my doubt is can I detach that part and replace it? @Amresupply
Thanks for watching. It is possible that it damaged the control board. This is difficult to test and verify. It is also possible that it damaged the wire. If you trace the wire, you can test both ends of the wire for continuity (to see if there's a continuous path for electricity to flow through). Continuity is a resistance test, and a wire should have between 0 and 1 ohm of resistance. If the wire is damaged then you'll have to get a new wire harness or repair that section of the wire.
Thanks for the video. Our oven is displaying F1 E0 error code. The burner stay on high even when the button is on low. We don't know what to do at this point.
Thanks for watching. This code can mean that there is an issue with the keypad (like a stuck key) or an issue with the control board itself. Is your stove burner controlled by the main control board or do you have individual heat switches such as this: ruclips.net/video/l39vOnhqnhg/видео.html
Thanks for watching. It depends on the model. Some will have keypads or a membrane that can be replaced: Enter your model number in this lookup tool to see what is available. www.amresupply.com/lookup In other cases this can't be replaced so a new control board is needed.
is there a way to reinforce the plastic bevel/bracket where the screws go into? i think after years of pushing on the board, the plastic will eventually break against the metal screws.
Thanks for watching. There might be a way to reinforce it will small L brackets and glue it to the plastic. If the L bracket has a screw hold you might be able to insert the screw into that as well as the plastic for more strength. Not all control boards have the same amount of plastic or the same surface area so it's hard to say what will work best in your scenario.
@@Here12years it's a pretty simple job if you have a drill and drill bit for metal and a clamp. you can grind off the broken plastic bracket and glue(epoxy) on metal L brackets. but you have to drill matching holes on the brackets before gluing them on. unfortunately i didn't have a drill handy and i had to get the job done in a couple hours. most of the broken plastic bracket pieces caught in the slot under the board. i reassembled/glued the broken pieces and glued the metal brackets behind the plastic brackets. the metal brackets are acting as support/backing rather than the actual brackets. seems to be holding good so far. total material was 4 brackets and 1 instant epoxy glue. the board is easy to remove from the back.
My control board works, but the base itself is broken. The part where the screws get secured. Is this something i can buy separately? Ordo i have to buy the whole control board?
Thanks for watching. Generally boards are sold as one piece and aren't easily repaired. If the backing or the plastic mount of the board is broken and can't screw in, then it's best to install a new control board.
Thanks for watching. A dial uses a fluid filled bulb and thermostat to control the temperature of the oven. It is not recommended to install parts that are not designed for that particular oven.
Thanks for watching. These connectors will vary betweeen models so there is no single way. If there is a locking clip make sure to release it first. If it is on tight, then you can always use a flat blade screw driver (a small one for watches would be best). Slide it under and twist slightly to help it get started. Then you can go to the other side and do the same. Hope this helps!
We've had to replace the control board on our Tappan oven three times in the past 24 months, each time we've lost power due to storms. Is there any way to protect the board from blowing when we lose power?
Thanks for watching. It seems like there have been some power surges that have effected your oven control board. There are surge protector devices but I can't vouch or recommend anything specific. Not sure what is available for 240v outlets but electricians can install surge protection at the breaker panel.
Would a faulty control board cause the oven to go into clean mode on its own? After putting food in the oven set at 375, about 15 minutes in, the oven beeped a few times and went into what looked like clean mode. It said clean on the screen and none of the buttons to control the oven worked. It would not turn off even. I had to turn off the breaker. Now everytime I turn the breaker on the top heating elements come on, without me actually turning the oven on.
Thank you for watching. That is an unusual problem but a faulty control board could initiate self clean when it's not supposed to. It could be a sticky button or something internal on the board.
How about if the light on the control board isnt working... I changed the bulb out and it won't turn off so I put the old bulb back on til someone takes a look
Thanks for watching. Are you referring to an indicator light such as a "power o" light or is that a separate light bulb or fluorescent that illuminates part of the stove?
@@terimccollum2436 For the light inside the oven, we have a video that shows this in more detail including testing a toggle switch, the socket as well as the door switch: ruclips.net/video/T5CPQxYp1WQ/видео.html Since you found that a new bulb works but stays on 100% of the time you could first check continuity of the door switch. If the door switch has continuity even with the switch pressed closed, then replace the door switch. if that doesn't help, check the wires to make sure the bulb isn't shorted to ground. You can test for a short by testing 1 terminal of the socket (on the back) to any shiny metal of the oven frame. If you get continuity then there is a short. Make sure each wire is properly insulated, not damaged and is connected properly. As well if your light is controlled by a button on the control board, then it might be a fault relay on the board.
If the main board is discontinued, are they repairable? So frustrating 😢 I have a GE dual oven less than 10 years old but discontinued contol board. I hate to throw the whole stove out, it’s still in mint shape. Are there companies that can just fix the boards?
Thanks for watching. If the board is discontinued there might still be some boards in stock somewhere in some companies. It's worth checking around with the model number to try to see if it is still in stock anywhere as well check reseller sites like ebay. In many cases it might just be a capacitor or a relay that is faulty on the board. Yes there are electronic repair companies that will repair consumer electronics, it will still likely be less expensive than a new oven.
I have a Whirlpool stove. Everything works. The display panel keeps showing the stovetop is on and hot. I recently had to replace a switch for the stovetop but I can seem to figure out how to get the display to reset itself. The surface of all eyes are cold to the touch it is a smooth top stove. it is just about a year old.....any ideas
Thanks for watching. If your stove has separate heat switches for the stove burners then it won't be an issue with the control board itself. The "hot surface light" can stay when there is a faulty limiter on one of the heating elements: ruclips.net/video/CXhmlswg30Y/видео.html Alternatively the "cooktop indicator light" or power indicator light, can stay on when there is a stuck contact in one of the heat switches: ruclips.net/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/видео.html Hope this helps!
I have a Samsung oven/range around 7 years old, NE59J3421SS/AA, and it will not heat up to the correct temp (on the low side by 200+ degrees when the alert signal first goes off). When I let it run, over time (45 min) it gets within 25 degrees or so but still low. I've tested the thermal sensor and heating elements which are within normal ohm specs. I tested the control board with a voltmeter on the two wires feeding to the baking element. When I turn on the bake mode, after waiting a minute of starting, the voltmeter reads 56 volts and then climbs to 235 volts and back down to 56 volts but never stays at any one voltage for more than 5 seconds or less. As the voltage continues to rise and fall (pausing at a few different voltage levels), I hear the relays chatter. Does this problem sound like a control board? Thank you.
Thanks for watching. Based on what you've tested and observed, it seems like the relays are likely bad and the contacts are likely not closing properly. So even if the control board is correctly detecting the temperature and calling for heat that power might not make it to the heating elements. The relays can't be easily replaced without additional tools and experience so it's best to install a new control board.
My Maytag MER5752BAW when connecting it power needs 2 wires 220 volts. Does the third one need only 119 volt. Will appreciate assistance Hussein Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Thanks for watching. AMRE Supply is based in Canada and has a different electrical standard than in Saudi Arabia. In Canada, residential homes will have 120V outlets with 240 volts being supplied by a combined double breaker. An electric range power cord has 4 terminals. There are two hot terminals (each 120V) , one neutral and one ground. The heating elements will use both 120V for a combined 240V. Similar models of appliances distributed in other regions will have a different power cord installed. If your home does not have the right receptacle, then you might have to call an electrician.
Did this video help you fix your oven? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!
Please help PLease please..... I have a bosch HEI7282U/09
Problem - Conv Broil, conv Roast, broil does not heat up (very slow)
- Bake works fine
- Conv Fan works
Work Done - Replaced back round element (new=56 ohms, no Continuity), seller says that is the expected range
- Replaced Top Element (new=17.5 ohms, good continuity)
What should could be the problem? Many thanks
@@Asian_Connection Thanks for watching. It's always good to double check all the wire terminals to make sure that they are secure and are not corroded.
If you've replaced the broil element on top, and the broil setting isn't working properly then the only thing left is the control board. It could be an issue with the relay on the control board for the broil element. During broil, only the broil element is used to brown the top of the food, so it works in isolation. It isn't involved much in baking so that's why your bake setting is still working.
Control boards are easy to replace but aren't easily tested. If you've eliminated everything else then it's best to install a new one. You can see how to do this here: ruclips.net/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/видео.html
@@AmreSupply many thanks for your detail reply.
@@Asian_Connection You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
@AMRE Supply Is there a way to just fix a bracelet? I pushed the on button to hard I guess, so now when I turn on the oven 1 side pushes inward and there's a gap.
The calm, lucid delivery made me confident I can do this repair. Many thanks. You rocked it.
You're welcome! We're just happy to help!
Thank You. Our oven shuts off by itself while in operation. A sharp blow to the area around the bake switch brings it back on. You have given me the knowledge of where to first look for a loose connection or, if that doesn't work, to go ahead and replace the control board.
You're welcome, we're just happy to have helped!!
Thanks for the excellent video. This made it easy to diagnose the problem and fix my oven! Also thanks to Karen at the Richmond, BC store for the advice to use a blow dryer to heat up the overlay to make it easier to peel off.
You're welcome Fred! We're just happy to help both here on RUclips as well as in store! Thank you for sharing your experience, I'll pass on this comment to Karen as well!
Did what you said now my oven is working. 🤩 Thanks
You're welcome Kristina, we're glad that the video helped you out!
Thanks in a million. Great content. Awesome. Very well explained. I couldn't find this explanation--simply put anywhere else. Great teachers are hard to find. Grade: A++💥
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! I think you might find some of our other videos helpful especially this playlist on "How it Works" ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
Thanks your video helped me to replace the control board and repair our ge range .In our case a mouse had gotten in the electric burner control and had grounded out. The wires had checked out good so I examined the control board and it was discolored but barely visible but that was the problem. So we ordered the part and replaced . Thanks again
You're welcome Louis, we're just glad that the video helped you narrow down the problem and fix your range!
Excellent video! Thanks!
You're welcome!
Really helpful and thank you. I have a doubt. The first slot (connecting to yellow wire fried in my stove) . It is the part which you are removing at 3:06 in the video. So my doubt is can I detach that part and replace it? @Amresupply
Thanks for watching. It is possible that it damaged the control board. This is difficult to test and verify. It is also possible that it damaged the wire. If you trace the wire, you can test both ends of the wire for continuity (to see if there's a continuous path for electricity to flow through). Continuity is a resistance test, and a wire should have between 0 and 1 ohm of resistance.
If the wire is damaged then you'll have to get a new wire harness or repair that section of the wire.
Thanks for the video. Our oven is displaying F1 E0 error code. The burner stay on high even when the button is on low. We don't know what to do at this point.
Thanks for watching. This code can mean that there is an issue with the keypad (like a stuck key) or an issue with the control board itself.
Is your stove burner controlled by the main control board or do you have individual heat switches such as this: ruclips.net/video/l39vOnhqnhg/видео.html
How can the clear plastic covering the buttons be replaced? Mine is peeling and looks awful.
Thanks for watching. It depends on the model. Some will have keypads or a membrane that can be replaced: Enter your model number in this lookup tool to see what is available. www.amresupply.com/lookup
In other cases this can't be replaced so a new control board is needed.
is there a way to reinforce the plastic bevel/bracket where the screws go into? i think after years of pushing on the board, the plastic will eventually break against the metal screws.
Thanks for watching. There might be a way to reinforce it will small L brackets and glue it to the plastic. If the L bracket has a screw hold you might be able to insert the screw into that as well as the plastic for more strength. Not all control boards have the same amount of plastic or the same surface area so it's hard to say what will work best in your scenario.
Mine broke. I'm trying to figure out how to secure it.
@@Here12years it's a pretty simple job if you have a drill and drill bit for metal and a clamp. you can grind off the broken plastic bracket and glue(epoxy) on metal L brackets. but you have to drill matching holes on the brackets before gluing them on. unfortunately i didn't have a drill handy and i had to get the job done in a couple hours. most of the broken plastic bracket pieces caught in the slot under the board. i reassembled/glued the broken pieces and glued the metal brackets behind the plastic brackets. the metal brackets are acting as support/backing rather than the actual brackets. seems to be holding good so far. total material was 4 brackets and 1 instant epoxy glue. the board is easy to remove from the back.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Excellent
Thanks for watching!
My control board works, but the base itself is broken. The part where the screws get secured. Is this something i can buy separately? Ordo i have to buy the whole control board?
Thanks for watching. Generally boards are sold as one piece and aren't easily repaired. If the backing or the plastic mount of the board is broken and can't screw in, then it's best to install a new control board.
Could you change or convert your control board to a traditional knob on your Amana stove?
Thanks for watching. A dial uses a fluid filled bulb and thermostat to control the temperature of the oven. It is not recommended to install parts that are not designed for that particular oven.
What is the best way to remove the white connector on the bottom of the control board?
Thanks for watching. These connectors will vary betweeen models so there is no single way. If there is a locking clip make sure to release it first. If it is on tight, then you can always use a flat blade screw driver (a small one for watches would be best). Slide it under and twist slightly to help it get started. Then you can go to the other side and do the same. Hope this helps!
We've had to replace the control board on our Tappan oven three times in the past 24 months, each time we've lost power due to storms. Is there any way to protect the board from blowing when we lose power?
Thanks for watching. It seems like there have been some power surges that have effected your oven control board. There are surge protector devices but I can't vouch or recommend anything specific. Not sure what is available for 240v outlets but electricians can install surge protection at the breaker panel.
Would a faulty control board cause the oven to go into clean mode on its own? After putting food in the oven set at 375, about 15 minutes in, the oven beeped a few times and went into what looked like clean mode. It said clean on the screen and none of the buttons to control the oven worked. It would not turn off even. I had to turn off the breaker. Now everytime I turn the breaker on the top heating elements come on, without me actually turning the oven on.
Thank you for watching. That is an unusual problem but a faulty control board could initiate self clean when it's not supposed to. It could be a sticky button or something internal on the board.
How about if the light on the control board isnt working... I changed the bulb out and it won't turn off so I put the old bulb back on til someone takes a look
Thanks for watching. Are you referring to an indicator light such as a "power o" light or is that a separate light bulb or fluorescent that illuminates part of the stove?
It is a whirlpool light bulb with a glass cover in the oven. The controls are all pressed on and off
@@terimccollum2436 For the light inside the oven, we have a video that shows this in more detail including testing a toggle switch, the socket as well as the door switch: ruclips.net/video/T5CPQxYp1WQ/видео.html
Since you found that a new bulb works but stays on 100% of the time you could first check continuity of the door switch. If the door switch has continuity even with the switch pressed closed, then replace the door switch.
if that doesn't help, check the wires to make sure the bulb isn't shorted to ground. You can test for a short by testing 1 terminal of the socket (on the back) to any shiny metal of the oven frame. If you get continuity then there is a short. Make sure each wire is properly insulated, not damaged and is connected properly.
As well if your light is controlled by a button on the control board, then it might be a fault relay on the board.
If the main board is discontinued, are they repairable? So frustrating 😢 I have a GE dual oven less than 10 years old but discontinued contol board. I hate to throw the whole stove out, it’s still in mint shape.
Are there companies that can just fix the boards?
Thanks for watching. If the board is discontinued there might still be some boards in stock somewhere in some companies. It's worth checking around with the model number to try to see if it is still in stock anywhere as well check reseller sites like ebay.
In many cases it might just be a capacitor or a relay that is faulty on the board. Yes there are electronic repair companies that will repair consumer electronics, it will still likely be less expensive than a new oven.
There are companies that refurbish them. Found some for refrigerator boards can't remember names.
Try a company called apex
I have a Whirlpool stove. Everything works. The display panel keeps showing the stovetop is on and hot. I recently had to replace a switch for the stovetop but I can seem to figure out how to get the display to reset itself. The surface of all eyes are cold to the touch it is a smooth top stove. it is just about a year old.....any ideas
Thanks for watching. If your stove has separate heat switches for the stove burners then it won't be an issue with the control board itself.
The "hot surface light" can stay when there is a faulty limiter on one of the heating elements: ruclips.net/video/CXhmlswg30Y/видео.html
Alternatively the "cooktop indicator light" or power indicator light, can stay on when there is a stuck contact in one of the heat switches: ruclips.net/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/видео.html
Hope this helps!
I have a Samsung oven/range around 7 years old, NE59J3421SS/AA, and it will not heat up to the correct temp (on the low side by 200+ degrees when the alert signal first goes off). When I let it run, over time (45 min) it gets within 25 degrees or so but still low. I've tested the thermal sensor and heating elements which are within normal ohm specs. I tested the control board with a voltmeter on the two wires feeding to the baking element. When I turn on the bake mode, after waiting a minute of starting, the voltmeter reads 56 volts and then climbs to 235 volts and back down to 56 volts but never stays at any one voltage for more than 5 seconds or less. As the voltage continues to rise and fall (pausing at a few different voltage levels), I hear the relays chatter. Does this problem sound like a control board? Thank you.
Thanks for watching. Based on what you've tested and observed, it seems like the relays are likely bad and the contacts are likely not closing properly. So even if the control board is correctly detecting the temperature and calling for heat that power might not make it to the heating elements.
The relays can't be easily replaced without additional tools and experience so it's best to install a new control board.
My Maytag MER5752BAW when connecting it power needs 2 wires 220 volts. Does the third one need only 119 volt.
Will appreciate assistance
Hussein
Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Thanks for watching. AMRE Supply is based in Canada and has a different electrical standard than in Saudi Arabia. In Canada, residential homes will have 120V outlets with 240 volts being supplied by a combined double breaker. An electric range power cord has 4 terminals. There are two hot terminals (each 120V) , one neutral and one ground. The heating elements will use both 120V for a combined 240V.
Similar models of appliances distributed in other regions will have a different power cord installed. If your home does not have the right receptacle, then you might have to call an electrician.
A possibility?
Thanks for watching. What is your question?
thats a REPLACE not a repair hummmm......
Thanks for watching. The series is called "Repair & Replace" and these videos show replacements of parts needed to repair appliances.