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Just did the shock mod. One thing to point out if you are moving up the front shocks to match the rears you need to also move the panhard to the top location. This avoids the panhard link fouling the pumpkin and reducing the shock travel. You will also need to remove the bottom body mount post screws so they don't foul the shock caps.
Good point. I ended up going Servo on Axle (SOA) 4 link setup, so it's not needed for mine. As for shock caps, I prefer adding a small spacer to avoid it.
It really depends on your goal for the build. If you are building for crawl performance, then those will raise the center of gravity. But if you are looking for scale build with improved performance, then it's not a bad way to go. Good luck.
Yup, I definitely agree. I kind of mentioned it, but since I didn't cut it yet, I wasn't sure on the exact length. It will definitely something that I will be doing on my Ecto.
@@BigSungHobbies . Its a major improvement. I don't have an ecto but I built a gatekeeper and didn't even put the cage together. I fit a creep body to it. So, its basically the same as a ecto. I call it the GateCreeper. Lol!!. I wasn't sure on the length either but this guy helps a lot. I got the 10mm from this video. ruclips.net/video/93gwzfCSS-A/видео.html
@@rcjoe406 Ecto has the same steering angle as other Element Enduro, but the longer wheelbase will make the turns a bit wider. I am not aware of any mods to make it tighter like AR44 axles other than carefully setting the right endpoints.
Thanks 👍. And it works really well. On my Trenchers, I use Simple Green mix to clean the tires after each run, and that helps to keep it sticky as well.
On most 1/10 scale RC, you would want to have 3 different sizes: 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm. The 2mm is the most used one, but others would be needed as well. Also make sure to pick up a good set of hex drivers if you want to avoid stripping the screws. MIP is the expensive, but preferred choice. You can find them here: alnk.to/gKLWesX
If you found this video useful, please consider subscribing to the channel to see future videos and also make sure to turn on the notification bell to be notified when they are uploaded! Thanks in advance!
Just did the shock mod. One thing to point out if you are moving up the front shocks to match the rears you need to also move the panhard to the top location. This avoids the panhard link fouling the pumpkin and reducing the shock travel. You will also need to remove the bottom body mount post screws so they don't foul the shock caps.
Good point. I ended up going Servo on Axle (SOA) 4 link setup, so it's not needed for mine. As for shock caps, I prefer adding a small spacer to avoid it.
Another mod is to remove the rack behind the rear window. It reduces the weight up high and by doing that, lowers the center of gravity.
Thank you. That is something I am planning to do...one reason, I didn't glue the grommets on the rack ;)
Cool!! What about adding interior and a driver figure..also LEDS in front and rear😮😮😮
It really depends on your goal for the build. If you are building for crawl performance, then those will raise the center of gravity. But if you are looking for scale build with improved performance, then it's not a bad way to go. Good luck.
Happy Labor Day!
Great free mods, that can definitely translate over to my rig! Thank you for sharing!
You bet! Each rig will have slightly different mods, but the concept will be pretty applicable to any rigs.
Another great mod is to cut 10mm off the front chassis rails. Ditch the fake winch , cut the front bumper bracket and reinstall.
Yup, I definitely agree. I kind of mentioned it, but since I didn't cut it yet, I wasn't sure on the exact length. It will definitely something that I will be doing on my Ecto.
@@BigSungHobbies . Its a major improvement. I don't have an ecto but I built a gatekeeper and didn't even put the cage together. I fit a creep body to it. So, its basically the same as a ecto. I call it the GateCreeper. Lol!!. I wasn't sure on the length either but this guy helps a lot. I got the 10mm from this video.
ruclips.net/video/93gwzfCSS-A/видео.html
Thanks for the info. Much appreciate it.
Any advice to make it turn tighter steering sucks have to make 3 point turns
@@rcjoe406 Ecto has the same steering angle as other Element Enduro, but the longer wheelbase will make the turns a bit wider. I am not aware of any mods to make it tighter like AR44 axles other than carefully setting the right endpoints.
To tuck in the front bumper, do you think the chassis should be cut?
The front of the chassis will need to be cut about 10mm. You will also loose the fake winch, and some mods to the bumper bracket will be needed.
That wd-40 trick seems wild. Nice video man.
Thanks 👍. And it works really well. On my Trenchers, I use Simple Green mix to clean the tires after each run, and that helps to keep it sticky as well.
Nice, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks for the visit
New to this truck what size hex drivers are best for it please
On most 1/10 scale RC, you would want to have 3 different sizes: 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm. The 2mm is the most used one, but others would be needed as well. Also make sure to pick up a good set of hex drivers if you want to avoid stripping the screws. MIP is the expensive, but preferred choice. You can find them here: alnk.to/gKLWesX
Awesome 4c and great mods
Thanks!
I'm surprised you didn't mention cutting the foams
That's a good one...I have just been using the dual stage foams for so long, that I totally forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder.