Loctite / Phrozen Onyx PRO410 Resin First Impressions - Highly Detailed Without Being Brittle

Loctite has collaborated with Phrozen to release their new resin, called Onyx Pro410. This new material offers high detail without being brittle or fragile. Loctite reached out to me and asked me to test out this new material, and I couldn't wait to get my hands on it! MORE BELOW -------↡↡↡↡
Links:
Loctite / Phrozen Onyx Rigid Pro410 Resin
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Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
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Elegoo Mercury Plus
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Fulament Resin - Referral Link
Use Coupon Code "AndrewSink3D" for 10% Off!
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Find me on Twitter: / andrewasink
Inspired - Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Thanks for watching and have fun printing!
#3DPrinting #Resin #Loctite

[@UncleJessy]

Oh man that print looks fantastic! And yeah that material looks like it would be fantastic for anyone printing/selling miniatures. I’m going to have to try some of that out!

[@AndrewSink]

It’s surprisingly durable for a photopolymer!

[@phrozen3d]

Thank you for your introduction！

[@marsgizmo]

very interesting resin 😎

[@AndrewSink]

Right? It’s such a deep color; I love it!

[@netnoob77]

Wow, 10s normal layer exposure time for a Mono screen, that's a long time. Models printed with this is going to take a long time. Details are pretty crisp though.

[@AndrewSink]

Long time is relative! It would take even longer to carve them by hand! 😅

[@netnoob77]

@@AndrewSink True.. it's a long time relative to other resins which take less than 3s normal layer exposure time.

[@darren990]

wash in thinners in a jar for 30 sec .then put in your wash and cure ..that want happen again

[@euandykes]

If only without supports. Does that stage frustrat you?

[@JeansGlow]

Does it say "Model Layer Cure Time" 3s ?

[@sprocket5526]

That long exposure on a screen based resin printer. No thanks, you will burn out your screen WAY faster. Ons DPL printer, then it might be an interiør product depending on price and if its available or foing to be one if those rare super expensive resins

[@415Meta]

firearms bros...

[@stltrekmodels.4157]

So Andrew. This is what I am designing and printing at the moment. ruclips.net/video/odCnG7_YvJQ/видео.html I have been looking at Phrozen resins because they seem to have more options in more rigid formula's than Anycubic does, and now that I know the difference between SLA, DLP, and LCP printing I am thinking that the Mighty 8K would have been a better choice and buy than the M3 Max that I bought.
So far I have been getting good results with the M3 Max, and M3 but I found out that the SLA screens have a service life of 2000 hours, and the DLP screens have a service life of 20,000 hours. They are also suppose to be higher quality on the prints, but they are about 2 times the cost for the machine. Anycubic has 2 DLP machines and they are about the same size as the M3 and a little smaller.
I thought that the LCD machines from Phrozen were just larger DPL machines but after reading and watching I found out what the differences were. The LCD screens last for 50,000 hours and can print to 0.20 microns, and they have this on a machine (Mighty 8K) that was actually about 300 dollars less than the M3 Max that I bought with a slightly larger print area.
Then the Mega 8K is about 2200 US dollars, which is twice what I paid for the M3 Max but if we are talking jus over 1/3rd larger print area, with a 50k hour LCD screen then with the size of the models that I want to print along with probably not having to buy screens from 1 to 3 times a year to replace, I am thinking that the Phrozen machines would be a better buy.
Also, the LCD puts the image layer right against the print, where the SLA machines are projecting it from mirrors so microscopically it can alter the image with minuscule scale distortion. I am not trying to sound like a salesman here. This is one of those things where I am learning a butt load of information in a short amount of time. I also am having to somewhat filter the sales pitches info out into what is real compared to what is real, and what is just tickling my fancy.
Most of the models/game miniatures feel like they were printed with plastic that is somewhat like they cast toy soldiers back in the 1970's. We have made brackets for custom archery bows, and these models that I am printing. We have used standard resins, and ABS like resins along with some translucent generic stuff. I printed some chess pieces that broke just falling about 3 feet from a table top to a floor and one of my test model pieces from the ABS like resin fell about the same distance. 3 feet and it cracked most of the way through the model.
I am looking for a resin that would somewhat emulate Syrene Model Plastic. My models are not designed like blocks of plastic that are just sliced into sections to align and glue together. I actually shell them so they are like the models that I grew up with and glued together with tabs and are hollow.
I was looking at this PRO410 but it still seems like it is to flexible for what I am wanting. I don't know about the Green Nylon either. I am thinking that the BASF prototype white might be the closest so far. I wish that they were not twice the cost of the other resins, but I can always print to test with the cheap resins, and then make the parts with the 80 dollar a KG stuff.
Let me know what you think, and thank you.
Eldan Fales. CEO Blue Dragon Archery. Model Division Engineer.