Could you please make a video about the "Alternate Extra Wall" Setting in Cura (in the Shell section) and compare if it's useful or not (how does it affect the strength of the part or is it only useful with a high or low infill setting)?
Any chance that you can do this test with Prusa's new Tough resin? I'd love to see how it compares, since it comes in a wide range of colors, unlike Siraya Blu.
Hey Stefan thats awesome stuff you are doing there... I am having a little problem. I was trying to print nylon parts on a FDM machine cuz the parts need to be hitresistant and a little flexi. I finaly reached a point where I wanted to end the damn Printer. So I just came back to my MSLA Printer thinking about flexible resins since you can mix em with "standard" resin to adjust the flexibility. Thats worth another video maybe? I mean I hope I figure it out before you upload that clip but it would be awesome to see the numbers. Grüße aus Rotenburg
@@pacman10182He needs to make his money somewhere. He builds jigs, buys the materials being tested and so on, so it's not like these videos are free to make, not to mention the time it takes to test, re-test, make the jigs, record the videos/b-roll and so on, so it's entirely reasonable to pay wall the write ups, after all, the information that average consumers need is included in the video, so I don't get what you're complaining about 😂
@@pacman10182 Alright sorry, but your comment didn't make the distinction, it just sounded like it was pointed at Stefan, rather than others who get their money for their research from grants.
7:00 the behavior you noticed there is called viscoelasticity. Most polymers show this behavior to a certain extent and so unlike with the pure elastic behavior of metals the loaded material deforms (creeps) over time like a viscous damper.
Manuel Buchberger I was going to say, it’s due to the polymer chain bonds allowing for stretching, and it’s likely due to a higher amount of single bonds, which is used to make it less brittle.
Thanks for testing this, Stefan! I have resisted resin printers based on my previous experience with the brittleness of the prints. Like you, I mainly print functional parts, but I very recently bought a Photon and have been printing a lot with Siraya Blu lately. What I have been experimenting with lately is a blend of 70% Blu and 30% Siraya Tenacious resin. The Tenacious is their flexible resin, which is extremely tough, but has no rigidity. But the blended parts feel fully rigid, just like 100% Blu, yet are very very tough. I would love to hear your results testing a blend. Since you’ve already made this wonderful video, you could report your findings in your podcast, which by the way is fantastic. I listen as soon as it is released each week - thanks for taking the time to make the show! One more thing to share - I am still new to resin printing, but several experienced users have told me that soaking the parts in IPA is actually not ideal because it strips too much resin from the surface and results in slightly weaker cures. I don’t know if this is true, but again, it would be wonderful to test. Ok, well, one more thing after all - I’ve also been told that it is better to cure underwater. Something about oxygen embrittlement - again, I have not yet tested this :)
Could you please upload that video of your Blu/Tenacious combination (for your lightsaber project) on RUclips? It would show people on here how mixing in resins like Tenacious can really change the properties of other resins, and how much harder it is to break what you printed vs how easy it was for him to break the sword off of the type of resin Stefan was using near the start of this video.
Excelent tip, Ocie. Many thanks. The best resin I've tried so far is eSun's Hard and Tough, but it's so scarce that I was able to only find a couple of bottles for an important project that I've been working on. This project requires printed parts to be as sturdy as possible. That is, strong and rigid, and yet not brittle. So I followed your advice and acquired two pairs of bottles of Blu and Tenacious and mixed them (by weight) in a 70-30 ratio, per your suggestion. The results have been so encouraging that at this point I'm seriously thinking about giving up on eSun's resin and start using this mix exclusively. This has the advantage that I can later tweak the proportions to make its resulting properties fit a particular application.
@@tutelarsword6 have you considered printing those crystals you mentioned, making a mold of them and casting them in a transparent material to get the effect you've been looking for? Might be a bit more convenient than the resin printer considering your current living situation.
@@javannapoli2018 well if the whole figure was transparent and you paint over the part that you don't want light to shine through... the EYE"S + SWORD and other cool SCIFI armor parts would light up... without have it incorporate multiple SMD-leds... can't wait to get my RESIN printer!
Not just wear issues to look into - many of the UV cure resins degrade/deform badly over time for a variety reasons. So far I've not seen a single UV cure resin I'd call good for anything but decoration, rapid short life expectancy prototypes or mold making. I'm not going to claim they are all like that though, just yet to see a stable strong good quality resin that can be used for an enduring part. Hopefully this resin might just do that job!
Gears also have some un-intuitive wear mechanisms. Properly designed gears don't have much sliding contact if any, for instance. Also, It is my understanding that plastic gears are mostly limited by strength and dimensional tolerances. 3D printing will also throw in some surface finish problems as well. I think durability will be determined mostly by tooth geometry and surface finish. Material choice matters, but I think it will be obvious, or at least the problems will not be unique to gears.
@@foldionepapyrus3441 , you have not seen, because hobbyists do not use them. This is not the same as that all the products are the same. Of course, they are more expensive, but that should be expected.
@@michaels3003 Do you have any you know of? With the datasheet to go with them? As I've looked around alot, and never seen any that makes this type of printer appealing to me (and I'd like it to be, as the detail level is great, and its a much cheaper simpler setup than the laser based powder melting ones that have similarly good resolution). The nature of the UV cure resins seems to make any part they make flawed if you need anything other than a delicate sculpture, or very short lived prototype. Preferably one that's never going to be handled/exposed to oils/water or more UV... There are some mechanically quite impressive resins, but they all seem to fail rapidly if exposed to the real world, which vastly limits the usefulness, and means you are better off printing the part, taking the silcon mold and then casting in a suitable 2-part epoxy (something you can easily find one that suits whatever your needs are) - and that is too much hassle to bother with, adds quite a bit to the cost of a single part, unless its really the only affordable/sane way to do a project - like perhaps you need thousand odd of them - too small a run to make injection molding viable, and too much to do machining...
@@foldionepapyrus3441 , I am interested in this subject myself, but unfortunately I've just started the learning process. YT may not be the best place to look for such information. You may have to do your own work by getting different polymers and testing them. Or you could order prints from some companies that print professionally but use polymers that are also available to ordinary consumers. I think, there are a growing number of manufacturers of polymers and data sheets should be available. Keep in mind that the specialty polymers will print at slower rates and may be expensive. Companies should be able to answer a simple question whether the printed objects can be used in specific real-world scenarios. Post processing may be required for real world usage even with the "tough" type products (like from eSun or Siraya Tech). Btw., mixing some of the polymers offers interesting possibilities.
You testing methods are great Stefan! I am really impressed by your findings on this resin and the detailed, unquestionable presentation! Love it man!!!
Great job as always! The isotropic qualities and detail available to resin printing have me very interested. I welcome any future resin printing topics from you.
This was super interesting. Thanks for taking the time to document and share your results. I was always curious how strong a resin print was compared to FDM and now I have an answer. I just wish the process was not so smelly and messy. I'm sure like anything else it will get better over time.
This is the only patreon account that makes sense. You actually supply real world data unlike all the other youtubers who just ask for money. Good work
That was pretty interesting, especially as I'm thinking about buying a photon at the moment. It would be awesome to see normal resins compared to this.
I use a Peopoly Moai and absolutely love it! I really don’t find the smell bad at all! Nothing like I expected from comments but I’m certain it varies based upon the manufacturer. Excellent video! Please do more on resins!
Yeah, it can vary a lot from brand to brand (3d-okay resin has a smell like polyester/fiberglass resin for example, while some other brands don’t smell any worse than most epoxy resins), and also by how tightly sealed your printer is. Even the temperature in the room can change how much resin smells.
stop making me want a Resin printer Stefan. But i'd love to see you test high temp resins, as people have been using them for printing parts on Prusa's etc.
While in polymers creep indicates the material being loaded at a temperature above the Tg (glass transition temperature), in monomers (like the UV resins used in resin printers) this is an indication that the monomer matrix hasn't fully formed yet. In other words, your resin isn't fully cured yet and thus it still behaves like a semi-liquid material. This is actually super common when manufacturing products out of resin and it can often take months if not years for the monomer matrix to fully form and the resin becomes fully cured and solidified. In most cases having a fully cured resin isn't a desirable goal as it results in a more brittle material than the not fully cured semi-liquid material, so in order to make a resin tough and less brittle they add plasticizers which interfere with the curing process and can sometimes also act as a lubricant between the monomer molecules to promote more viscous rather than solid behavior. In other words the creep is what makes this resin 'tough'.
The strength of resin changes a lot with exposure intensity, time, layer height, and temperature. Just got my Blu this morning can’t wait to try it out.
You are correct, if you could 100um would yield even better results. make sure checking on the user guide on our website and join the facebook Siraya Tech user group to meet fellow users. There are also recipe of mixing different resins in the group
I have worked with the chemistry of film photography for years, and find the resin process no more difficult or tedious than that. I much prefer the detail of resin prints to FDM, but have been searching for a stronger resin for practical parts. Thank you for your efforts in this review. Very helpful.
When looking at the spec sheet for this resin (provided by the manufacturer) it says not to soak the print in IPA for more than 30 seconds, and to try and only use a pain brush and IPA to remove the extra resin. Can you run the tests again to see how using the correct post processing effects your test results?
You mean like an eyeglass lens? Although resin printers have very fine layer lines, I don't know if it's enough for something like that. If you mean something like a magnifying glass then maybe.
4 года назад+2
I'm not sure if the resolution is high enough for optical lenses (though with polishing... maybe), but it should be enough for making *Fresnel* lenses, I think.
I bought this "Strong" resin and am very impressed with performance. I had same parts printed with "standard resin" for comparison. The increased performance of this Siraya Tech BLU resin is very impressive and immediately solved a "brittle" issue I had been suffering from. Now I can ship my JST-VH and JST-XH terminal extractor tools (see them at Tindie.com Search: JST) without concern of breaking during use. These parts were printed on a Duplicator D7 Plus clone from Monoprice... also I used the same exposure profile settings as the "standard" resin at a layer height of 0.1mm. I give a big Thumbs Up for this resin. Thank you CNC Kitchen for your valuable efforts.
What you observed in the bending test is probably the viscolastic behaviour of the resin. Generally, most polymers show this kind of behaviour, some more pronounced then other. This depends on the degree of polymerization (= average length of the polymer chains) and the "connection" between the polymerchains. Basically, this behaviour is entropy driven, meaning that the polymer chains will untangle under load but will return into their original position after the stress is taken away. Of course, this only works within a certain degree of deformation. Usually, the degree of viscoelasticity also correlates with the ductility of the polymer.
I like that (if I'm not mistaken) this resin is below 60$ for a liter. Seems that resins are getting more affordable and with better properties as time goes.
@@zanpekosak2383 I went and looked at their site, and I saw 500ml for 30€ under resin, but not 1L. Do they have half off sales a lot (like Makergeeks used to do) or is there some item I'm missing on their site?
For engineering prints I think the only two advantages to resin are the strength along all axis (print orientation layers not affecting strength), and the temperature resistance. Sparkmaker LCD-H for instance can go up to 320C. Typically the higher HDT plastics become harder to print on an FDM printer (warping, hardware to print at higher temperatures, etc.), but on a resin printer it's pour the liquid in, and find the right exposure time. Much easier to print something for extreme temperature resistance on a resin printer.
Seems superior when you need equal strength in multiple directions and/or no layer lines. But damn, what a hassle with sticky stuff and curing and such
Thanks so much for this! Posted this to our 3d printing group. I keep seeing reports of shattering in resin prints. This will help. I wondered about mounting the part under tension and failure happens as it ages. Nothing else seems to fit my observations. You rock!
BTW a little trick to removing prints from the bed on SLA/DLP.. use a flush cutter at the corners of your print and just snip once to get under it the print and the prints will pop right off vs. fighting them with a spatula :)
Phil G had some interesting findings curing his Siraya Blu at 60C which he said gave quite the bump in strength. Perhaps worth a test someday - Resin parts post-cured at different temps.
I had not even thought about the clear resin prints. There's probably all kinds of cool stuff you could do with clear resin prints, LEDs, and clever design.
My underwater robotics team used this resin for a water-tight pneumatics manifold/solenoid enclosure. It’s a good material. We were even able to use press-fit pneumatics fittings.
The first printer I had hands on experience with was the form 2. My favorite material was the abs like blue. The biggest problems I had was warping and other dimensional issues. While the strength of the part isn't dependent on orientation, the warping behavior is. Process also requires orienting the part at an angle to it's axis to limit it's adhesion, so the warp becomes a curl that is really difficult to design around. I found it very difficult to make straight fixture frames, precise slides, etc.
The creep u see in the three point bending test is due to stress relaxation. Odds are the resin is displaying viscoelastic properties due to the loading. Great video btw.
rsilvers thanks mate, such a comprehensive comparison. I’m assuming this is a collaboration, can you provide more details? Or maybe some other spreadsheets with other modes of failure? Cheers
@@rsilvers Hope you see this as I am really interested in your findings and looking to buy an SLA printer. I am based in China and have had good experiences dealing with Anycubic so might go for a Photon but in your spreadsheet, somehow the Zortrax prints Blu almost twice as strong as the Photon does. Any idea what that is or if the result can be trusted?
I'm just convinced that I will eventually get an SLA of some sort, and it will be an impulse buy that I will scramble to justify to myself with a new hobby. Those test parts are unreasonably pretty.
I was hesitant about buying ABS-Like resins, because I thought there's no way for a resin to be as strong as normal filaments. Now I know I can safely use these resins for more practical applications.
The part in the flex test was deforming because its internal structure, molecules, were realigning into a lower energy state, thus the deformation keeps going until equilibrium is reached or the part snaps due to decrease of the cross section, if said happens the load was already above the parts strength.
Looking for the hysteresis graph, you can see a residual deformation, which means that the material has started plastic deformation. The rise on the deformation after the load applied can be because of the plastic deformation, that not necessarily can happen instantly with the load. The plastic deformation is because of damage suffered (micro cracks) which happens with time. This might not be only creep, which has to do with the viscosity of the material and can happen on the elastic phase as well. It can be combined with creep though. It seems that the resin was not completely cured. You can try the same test with a resin after a few days of cure, to see if it is the case.
The reason the deformation jumps as you apply load is due to creep of viscoelastic material. Stress causes nucleation of large polymer chains, followed by preferential entanglement of the broken chains.
as an owner of an fdm printer i think fdm and sla can work and live together. for everyday use fdm is a way to go but there are some exception where you need a very fine detail like miniatures or if you wanna make a silicone mold from a 3d printed part and you want it to be smooth and shiny good looking then you need a printed part from sla machine. i dont own an sla printer but i really need one for that specific area.. no matter how much i try and how perfect my fdm printer is you just cant match the quality.. well you can but you need to put alot more work with body filler alot of sanding with different grits then primer etc whereas you can put half of the effort for washing the sla printed product and uv curing which also will take significantly less time for the same result.
I would like to see ultra clear resin printing lens and mirrors for science projects. Microscope, telescope, fresnel lens, binocular and mirors/lens /beam splitter for hologram fabrication would be awesome! Thumbs UP, Alex from Québec, Canada
great idea, Evan Morgan (search on youtube) did a project with resin printed magnifying glasses. the optical quality isn't that great due but we are sure it can be further improved.
Should have printed that test hook as a solid part. It would have been VERY strong. I tested Siraya Tech Fast, both gray and yellowish green and that resin is very resilient for outdoor use. I hung parts outside in direct sunlight and rain for six months over the summer and the parts were unaffected. No surface discoloring or chalky deposits. They looked new. They didn't lose strength and may have become stronger as sunlight UV cross linked the polymer. The part was a dog bone with a central dimension of 5mmX5mm. There were holes on the end for 550 pound test paracord. I was unable to create a tension failure with over 100kg of tensile force. I couldn't snap these parts by bending them in my fingers. The tiny solid parts are incredibly durable, UV resistant and impervious to the elements. The yellow PVC insulation faded on the wire I used to hang the samples outside for 6 months, but the parts didn't fade at all.
Very cool! I'm glad we start to see things like this. I'm currently doing an experiment on my own channel where I print PETG with very thin walls, then back fill it with foam to provide the structure. If everything goes well, I will have a 5 foot sword that is very durable and very light!
FYI I believe the increased ambient temperature is to reduce the viscosity of the blu resin making it flow better. So after printing you should get no benefit of keeping the ambient temp high with the heater. Thanks for the test results though very helpful!!!!!
Can you test reinforcing hollow prints with expanding foam, polyurethane, or some other pourable curing polymer? Would be interesting to see how that stacks up vs infill printed parts. That way you can get a part off the printer faster and reinforce it while the next part prints.
TwiztedMatt1007 with the DLP printers the print time is solely dependent on height, so hollow prints have the same build time as solids, only the quantity of resin changes. And a solid part will always be stronger than an infilled piece as the outer layers (bending moment - like an I-beam) or weaker portions (think tensile test) fail first.
Stefan, first: as always you made a great video. Second: I think you unintended put some stress concentrators on the hooks that you tested. On your video you showed one hook that breaks because one of them and I'm pretty sure that the other one also failed because of them too. It would be interesting if you redesign the drain holes and put them on non critical areas under stress.
I noticed that too... the FDM hooks break further up. The infill pattern also looks very coarse(?) compared to the different types he has tested. I couldn't tell if that may have also contributed. With the detail of resin printers I would have expected it to be finer. Possibly that is normally done due to the brittle nature of most resins?
I was really hoping for a new splash screen since you have your shiny new logo now. Do you see yourself using sla printers much? Or is it just a novelty for maybe making miniatures?
Would love to see a solid FDM and a solid resin hook. If the advantage of MSLA is that entire layers print at the same time, it should be more efficient (time) to print a solid resin hook vs. FDM. Great work!
I bet its equally strong in both directions because instead of a constant line of filament, resin printers that use LCDs produce small dots around each pixel so there wouldn't be much difference between each direction
I saw the thumbnail's blue tint and transparency and said 'Hey! That's Siraya I bet.' I found them on Amazon recently - wasn't so much looking for an engineering resin as just looking for more affordable resin and they had some at $40 for 1L (in the resin world that's pretty good). One thing that's really cool about resin printing is the ability to modify the resins. On an FDM printer if I want to modify a plastic's properties I have to do it while using an extruder like a Filastruder. You can't modify it as the end purchaser of the filament. With resin you can modify the properties easily. Want a more flexible, less rigid, tougher, less brittle piece? Put 25% of their 'Tenacious' flexible resin in with 75% of their Blu resin. Want a more rigid, less flexible, higher hardness, and are ok with a little more brittleness? Go with 25% of their Sculpt resin then. It's best to stay within the same brand, and you can do the same thing with other resin brands too.
@@sirayatech2 I did join the Facebook group when I first saw you on Amazon (Siraya Tech users group). I read about that ratio in the group, but I'm not the one that originated the ratio. I wish we could link to videos that are hosted on Facebook more easily. Somebody in the comments here asked how that first model Stefan showed (where he broke the sword off easily) would fare in Blu, and it really makes me think of that video somebody posted where they combined Blu with Tenacious and they were unable to break a 1.5mm section of their part off with their bare hand. (they said it was for a lightsaber project) Edit: Turns out that guy also commented here, further down, I'll ask him if he could post the video on RUclips.
When I first saw the AnyCubic Photon Mono and cura I was in love with the print method and was keen to cut over immediately as most of my Filament printing was marred by stringing and failed build plate adhesion. However after considering the resin issues: more brittle (solved here), the fumes during printing (I need a new place to print), the chemicals in the washup being expensive, the UV unknowns over time, I am left a little flat. Sure the prints are gorgeous however they do not seem 'useful', given the material, for functional items, brackets bearing load outside on my MTB and road bike. feeling a bit flat about it but at least the Filament prints work well on my Core XY printer, even if I must print 1 at a time for the best appearances.
I have used form3 Tough 2000, 1500, and Durable resin to create product prototypes and some actual production parts. With all three I can this. I have created large connectors with up to 70 pins and have also tried printing ev charger handles and heads. I have only one thing to say they are ALL TO BRITTLE. A drop from as little as three feet they break and shatter. I have not found a resin yet that can survive a drop from even the smallest distance. I have also tried phrozen black rock pro (major shrinkage) and phrozen aqua grey (pretty dimensional accurate) and phrozen pro series aqua grey (pretty similar to the aqua but I did get some warpage on curing. I plan on trying the siryatek and peopoli blu resins soon. For me, every resin is too brittle to be considered for manufacturing application. I cannot recommend a part that the first time it is dropped it explodes like a ming vase. However, I do see a possibility to use the resin parts to make urethane molds and poured polyurathne parts
Thanks so much for this, I've actually emailed Creality this morning for some basic information like this, because all they do is show a model Yoda being printed and never an actual Engineering application.
I don't know for sure, but that's what I'd call a visco-elastic material. Kind of rubbery, but also semi-brittle like silly putty. The deformation is time dependent: if you wait long enough, it will stretch (creep) a lot before reaching a max deformation and failing.
for me all this 3d printed thing always felt like some short-lived thing that people will forget one day, I saw the results on the flesh in several events, and knew it had no real aplications appart from arts and entertainment. the final results didn´t look good, and it was obvious that it had no machine-ready resistance, but now if they start to create materials like this, that would be truelly huge, now I see what that "3d printing dream" had to offer, is mind-blowing what can be done with this, we are up to great times
Another question about this. How it would be to have a plastic printed part, covered with resin, or vice versa? Like using rebar on concrete. I think that is something worth exploring, for example for parts that need FDM-like strength on all axis. Or getting extra strength on impact, by combining with a more tough plastic.
I would love to specifically see a compression test of FDM prints vs SLA, Clearly with 100% infill resin would win, But it's worth at least one mention.
I think I once watched a how it's made episode where reason was used instead injection molding for something. So it's probably used in industry to some extent
Can you get BASF to send you some Ultracur3D ST 45M resin? They are claiming a tensile strength of 60 Mpa and modulus of 2460 Mpa. It's been printing great on an elegoo mars, would be curious to see how it stacks up. Also hardly any stinky smell!
I love your videos. I learned so much from them. Thank you for another great video I don't think you meant to say the resin will sanitize your skin {to cleanse of germs} but rather irritate the skin.
7:06 Because Resin crystallize unevenly. Inner structure start crushing after applying too much torque. You need to measure the force that doesn't cause the creeping of value.
I noticed that these prints were blue prior to curing, and then greenish after. I suspect that this might affect strength. to avoid yellowing during curing, place the parts in water, and possibly distilled water might be best. curing the parts in water stops yellowing completely.
Finally someone that knows the difference between SLA Printers!! You make me so happy! hahaha, Looks like interesting resin indeed! What is the recommended AKA fastest cure wavelength for this resin ? looks like resins developed by Formlabs. My go to resin printer is a true DLP and the heat generated by the halogen light bulb is more then enough to keep the printer a 50 C which is ideal for printing, my Msla printers use 15X 3watt leds they also generate good heat for the small Chemcast top enclosure. EDIT: Top notch video presentation, as always!
The Blu resin cures best at 405nm wavelength. Blu is beating Formlabs Tough on several online torsion tests (search Robert Silvers resin test) and should print very well on a DLP printer
@@sirayatech2 Thank you for the infomation and the quick response time, aside from my DLP printer, my Msla printers use 365nm wavelength, what should i expect? if anything.
@@patprop74 probably very slow to no curing 365 and 405um are quite different. How are the LCD mask enduring the 365um light? better or worse than 405?
Stefan, I always see that you have included the notch into the design of your impact test specimens. They are actually supposed to be a straight bar with the notch "cut" out to eliminate the variables due to surface tension on the walls. This is a very important factor for accurate results.
@CNCKitchen Stefan, awsome Video as many others. I am really happy that you are looking into those resins too. Cured and washed the parts should be relatively safe healthwise. FDM printing is in discussion as well, so printing in a well ventilated area or using filters should be standard for both methods. (As long you are not smoking anyway. ;-) ) What was the break elongation? I would be very interested in your findings regarding temp resistance and long term stability. Maybe you can put it in a transparent case before putting in your oven. But with the fully cured material I wouldn't be too concerned about health issues. I guess it will become soft around 60-90° C because of being a tough resin.
very good observation. Any tough resin would be have some flexibility and the more flexible a resin is, the lower HDT. We do have resins that can hit 160C without softening too but they are more brittle and is more for molding application
Have you heard of Phrozen's Nylon-Green resin? It's supposed to be even tougher than Siraya Tech Blu. I would be interested to see maybe a follow-up video with that and maybe new tough resins and see how they compare along with different mixes. Anyways, great video as always!
I'm actually quite surprised that the toughness stood up so well compared to PLA/PETG. I noticed in this video you did a bend test with weight on it instead of doing a heat test. I'm curious how well resin holds up to similar heats that would bend/warp PLA/PETG. Did you have any data on that? I'm also curious what the print times were for a tray of parts versus FDM, factoring in cleaning and curing?
I don't know if I will ever use this data beyond simple trivia, as I only print in PLA on my home printer, but I just love seeing you torture those parts and then break it down into statistical graphs. I need to find a job where I get to break things and write down numbers all day.
the resin filament looks much better compared to fdm and the independency of the mechanical properties to the printing orientations should make it behave more like isotropic materials and this way to behave more predictably by strength analysis and simulations. i would say that it is much favorable for mechanical demanding parts
The viscoelasticity might be a really big issue with this material, i have used FDM plastics that had this issue and if it had any kind of permanent loading on the part it would slowly creep and bend, in my case it was bolted down and the bolts would become loose over time. Adding a test for this might come in handy, along with wear resistance such as for a gear.
Very nice, So Which common material is best for day to day use on the fdm and sla range? Material that has a good strength, less uv impact and durability? Cheers!
I returned to 3D printing solely because of resin printing. In my opinion, for my needs, resin is the only way to go, and produces prints far superior to FDM. The smell, and mess is really not an issue, if you plan ahead with a system of process which makes it no trouble, and all in much easier then FDM.
I've been printing with SLA printers for several months now and I'm wondering why you did the two IPA baths for 15 minutes each. That seems like an extremely long time and maybe have actually weakened the parts? Normally I don't dunk my pieces for more than 30 seconds per bath. I've also heard that curing Siraya Blu under water works better as well, so it may be possible to get better results post-cure.
Hey Stefan, I came across your channel about a month ago and since then have been binge watching all your videos haha. I've gotta say, you've gotten me to finally get around to fixing my 3d printer and start some new projects again! I was curious as to how you added the 'lattice structure' to the inside of the hook before printing it on the mSLA printer. What software did you use to achieve that? I have been trying to figure out how to export the 'sliced' STL models with the infill back to my CAD software to do some FEA using different infills but haven't figured it out yet. Thanks for your time! Keep up the great quality content
Availability in Europe? Siraya Tech is US based company, they don't have European resellers jet, so are Peopoly tough resins just rebranded Sirayas or?
Feel free to share and discuss the video on you Social Media Plattform of choice!
Could you please make a video about the "Alternate Extra Wall" Setting in Cura (in the Shell section) and compare if it's useful or not (how does it affect the strength of the part or is it only useful with a high or low infill setting)?
The smell you got I would think it's cyanide which is the fumes given off from permanent markers
Any chance that you can do this test with Prusa's new Tough resin? I'd love to see how it compares, since it comes in a wide range of colors, unlike Siraya Blu.
Great research! Thanks for sharing the data. I hadn't realized how strong this stuff is.
Hey Stefan thats awesome stuff you are doing there... I am having a little problem.
I was trying to print nylon parts on a FDM machine cuz the parts need to be hitresistant and a little flexi.
I finaly reached a point where I wanted to end the damn Printer.
So I just came back to my MSLA Printer thinking about flexible resins since you can mix em with "standard" resin
to adjust the flexibility.
Thats worth another video maybe? I mean I hope I figure it out before you upload that clip but it would be awesome to see the numbers.
Grüße aus Rotenburg
Stefan, bringing science and engineering to the youtube 3d printing scene. The world wouldn't be the same without you, thanks so much for your videos.
including pay walling the write up
@@pacman10182He needs to make his money somewhere. He builds jigs, buys the materials being tested and so on, so it's not like these videos are free to make, not to mention the time it takes to test, re-test, make the jigs, record the videos/b-roll and so on, so it's entirely reasonable to pay wall the write ups, after all, the information that average consumers need is included in the video, so I don't get what you're complaining about 😂
@@marci1380 that was more pointed at scientific papers being paywalled even though they're already paid for, mostly from grants
@@pacman10182 Alright sorry, but your comment didn't make the distinction, it just sounded like it was pointed at Stefan, rather than others who get their money for their research from grants.
@@marci1380 I hope that's what I was talking about, I don't remember
7:00 the behavior you noticed there is called viscoelasticity. Most polymers show this behavior to a certain extent and so unlike with the pure elastic behavior of metals the loaded material deforms (creeps) over time like a viscous damper.
Manuel Buchberger I was going to say, it’s due to the polymer chain bonds allowing for stretching, and it’s likely due to a higher amount of single bonds, which is used to make it less brittle.
Interesting, I'm sure he would have also seen this behavior in the D638 testing if he used the same method to apply a force.
Plastic deformation
Thought viscoelasticity was a temperature driven property and not driven by strain rate
It drove me nuts back in the day... piad all kinds of money for sla prints, to watch them sag into unusable items over time. grrrr
Thanks for testing this, Stefan! I have resisted resin printers based on my previous experience with the brittleness of the prints. Like you, I mainly print functional parts, but I very recently bought a Photon and have been printing a lot with Siraya Blu lately. What I have been experimenting with lately is a blend of 70% Blu and 30% Siraya Tenacious resin. The Tenacious is their flexible resin, which is extremely tough, but has no rigidity. But the blended parts feel fully rigid, just like 100% Blu, yet are very very tough. I would love to hear your results testing a blend. Since you’ve already made this wonderful video, you could report your findings in your podcast, which by the way is fantastic. I listen as soon as it is released each week - thanks for taking the time to make the show!
One more thing to share - I am still new to resin printing, but several experienced users have told me that soaking the parts in IPA is actually not ideal because it strips too much resin from the surface and results in slightly weaker cures. I don’t know if this is true, but again, it would be wonderful to test.
Ok, well, one more thing after all - I’ve also been told that it is better to cure underwater. Something about oxygen embrittlement - again, I have not yet tested this :)
Could you please upload that video of your Blu/Tenacious combination (for your lightsaber project) on RUclips? It would show people on here how mixing in resins like Tenacious can really change the properties of other resins, and how much harder it is to break what you printed vs how easy it was for him to break the sword off of the type of resin Stefan was using near the start of this video.
This would be very helpful ! following
Ocie Ward have you made a temp test already?
Excelent tip, Ocie. Many thanks. The best resin I've tried so far is eSun's Hard and Tough, but it's so scarce that I was able to only find a couple of bottles for an important project that I've been working on. This project requires printed parts to be as sturdy as possible. That is, strong and rigid, and yet not brittle. So I followed your advice and acquired two pairs of bottles of Blu and Tenacious and mixed them (by weight) in a 70-30 ratio, per your suggestion.
The results have been so encouraging that at this point I'm seriously thinking about giving up on eSun's resin and start using this mix exclusively. This has the advantage that I can later tweak the proportions to make its resulting properties fit a particular application.
@@technomech303 DON'T YOU F'KING LOVE THE INTERNET!!!!
great job you guys.... thanks for reporting back...
I'm actually impressed with resin properties. Good resin and great testing!
Some people don't realize you can mix resins to get qualities of each used. There are some interesting forum posts on this topic.
Logan Vinson - Please post links or info on forums. I would like to educate myself prior to getting into this type of printing. Thx
Could you post a link?
a link to this pro gamer move?
I do so much FDM I get so jealous looking at the resolution and transparency of the parts at 9:40
@@tutelarsword6 FYI when post-cured (as all UV resin parts should be) the parts lose a lot of their clarity
Jonesy it depends from the resin, some are engeneered to remain crystal clear even after curing
@@tutelarsword6 have you considered printing those crystals you mentioned, making a mold of them and casting them in a transparent material to get the effect you've been looking for? Might be a bit more convenient than the resin printer considering your current living situation.
@@javannapoli2018 well if the whole figure was transparent and you paint over the part that you don't want light to shine through... the EYE"S + SWORD and other cool SCIFI armor parts would light up... without have it incorporate multiple SMD-leds... can't wait to get my RESIN printer!
@@tutelarsword6 Check Out alcohol colours with SLA printed Minis. There are great Videos on youtube and the minis look spectacular!
Will you try some wear durability test if possible? I wonder how a fdm printed gear vs a sla/msla printed gear would perform.
Not just wear issues to look into - many of the UV cure resins degrade/deform badly over time for a variety reasons. So far I've not seen a single UV cure resin I'd call good for anything but decoration, rapid short life expectancy prototypes or mold making. I'm not going to claim they are all like that though, just yet to see a stable strong good quality resin that can be used for an enduring part. Hopefully this resin might just do that job!
Gears also have some un-intuitive wear mechanisms. Properly designed gears don't have much sliding contact if any, for instance. Also, It is my understanding that plastic gears are mostly limited by strength and dimensional tolerances. 3D printing will also throw in some surface finish problems as well.
I think durability will be determined mostly by tooth geometry and surface finish. Material choice matters, but I think it will be obvious, or at least the problems will not be unique to gears.
@@foldionepapyrus3441 , you have not seen, because hobbyists do not use them. This is not the same as that all the products are the same. Of course, they are more expensive, but that should be expected.
@@michaels3003 Do you have any you know of? With the datasheet to go with them? As I've looked around alot, and never seen any that makes this type of printer appealing to me (and I'd like it to be, as the detail level is great, and its a much cheaper simpler setup than the laser based powder melting ones that have similarly good resolution).
The nature of the UV cure resins seems to make any part they make flawed if you need anything other than a delicate sculpture, or very short lived prototype. Preferably one that's never going to be handled/exposed to oils/water or more UV... There are some mechanically quite impressive resins, but they all seem to fail rapidly if exposed to the real world, which vastly limits the usefulness, and means you are better off printing the part, taking the silcon mold and then casting in a suitable 2-part epoxy (something you can easily find one that suits whatever your needs are) - and that is too much hassle to bother with, adds quite a bit to the cost of a single part, unless its really the only affordable/sane way to do a project - like perhaps you need thousand odd of them - too small a run to make injection molding viable, and too much to do machining...
@@foldionepapyrus3441 , I am interested in this subject myself, but unfortunately I've just started the learning process. YT may not be the best place to look for such information. You may have to do your own work by getting different polymers and testing them. Or you could order prints from some companies that print professionally but use polymers that are also available to ordinary consumers. I think, there are a growing number of manufacturers of polymers and data sheets should be available. Keep in mind that the specialty polymers will print at slower rates and may be expensive. Companies should be able to answer a simple question whether the printed objects can be used in specific real-world scenarios. Post processing may be required for real world usage even with the "tough" type products (like from eSun or Siraya Tech). Btw., mixing some of the polymers offers interesting possibilities.
You testing methods are great Stefan! I am really impressed by your findings on this resin and the detailed, unquestionable presentation! Love it man!!!
Great job as always! The isotropic qualities and detail available to resin printing have me very interested. I welcome any future resin printing topics from you.
I have literally been waiting for someone to do this forever. Thank you for this video. Resin printing is so underrepresented.
Underrepresented due to higher safety procedures for UV-sensitive liquid resin.
Dude! Your way of testing the parts leaves absolutely no wishes! One gets that you wholeheartedly are an engineer!
Cheers mate!
Your videos are so ridiculously helpful. You are saving so many people an insane amount of testing with your in depth videos. Much appreciated!
Brilliant and your testing is thorough. Thank you for investing so much time to make great videos!
This was super interesting. Thanks for taking the time to document and share your results. I was always curious how strong a resin print was compared to FDM and now I have an answer. I just wish the process was not so smelly and messy. I'm sure like anything else it will get better over time.
This is the only patreon account that makes sense. You actually supply real world data unlike all the other youtubers who just ask for money. Good work
That was pretty interesting, especially as I'm thinking about buying a photon at the moment. It would be awesome to see normal resins compared to this.
Finally a youtuber who understands the scientific method!
Thanks 👌
I use a Peopoly Moai and absolutely love it! I really don’t find the smell bad at all! Nothing like I expected from comments but I’m certain it varies based upon the manufacturer. Excellent video! Please do more on resins!
Yeah, it can vary a lot from brand to brand (3d-okay resin has a smell like polyester/fiberglass resin for example, while some other brands don’t smell any worse than most epoxy resins), and also by how tightly sealed your printer is. Even the temperature in the room can change how much resin smells.
stop making me want a Resin printer Stefan. But i'd love to see you test high temp resins, as people have been using them for printing parts on Prusa's etc.
While in polymers creep indicates the material being loaded at a temperature above the Tg (glass transition temperature), in monomers (like the UV resins used in resin printers) this is an indication that the monomer matrix hasn't fully formed yet. In other words, your resin isn't fully cured yet and thus it still behaves like a semi-liquid material. This is actually super common when manufacturing products out of resin and it can often take months if not years for the monomer matrix to fully form and the resin becomes fully cured and solidified. In most cases having a fully cured resin isn't a desirable goal as it results in a more brittle material than the not fully cured semi-liquid material, so in order to make a resin tough and less brittle they add plasticizers which interfere with the curing process and can sometimes also act as a lubricant between the monomer molecules to promote more viscous rather than solid behavior. In other words the creep is what makes this resin 'tough'.
The strength of resin changes a lot with exposure intensity, time, layer height, and temperature. Just got my Blu this morning can’t wait to try it out.
You are correct, if you could 100um would yield even better results. make sure checking on the user guide on our website and join the facebook Siraya Tech user group to meet fellow users. There are also recipe of mixing different resins in the group
I have worked with the chemistry of film photography for years, and find the resin process no more difficult or tedious than that. I much prefer the detail of resin prints to FDM, but have been searching for a stronger resin for practical parts. Thank you for your efforts in this review. Very helpful.
You are like the Nile Red of engineering!
Thank you for your content!
When looking at the spec sheet for this resin (provided by the manufacturer) it says not to soak the print in IPA for more than 30 seconds, and to try and only use a pain brush and IPA to remove the extra resin. Can you run the tests again to see how using the correct post processing effects your test results?
3d print lenses with clear resin and a bit of polisher!
You mean like an eyeglass lens? Although resin printers have very fine layer lines, I don't know if it's enough for something like that. If you mean something like a magnifying glass then maybe.
I'm not sure if the resolution is high enough for optical lenses (though with polishing... maybe), but it should be enough for making *Fresnel* lenses, I think.
Marco Reps has done it, look it up. You can't cure the lenses though.
I bought this "Strong" resin and am very impressed with performance. I had same parts printed with "standard resin" for comparison. The increased performance of this Siraya Tech BLU resin is very impressive and immediately solved a "brittle" issue I had been suffering from. Now I can ship my JST-VH and JST-XH terminal extractor tools (see them at Tindie.com Search: JST) without concern of breaking during use. These parts were printed on a Duplicator D7 Plus clone from Monoprice... also I used the same exposure profile settings as the "standard" resin at a layer height of 0.1mm. I give a big Thumbs Up for this resin. Thank you CNC Kitchen for your valuable efforts.
What you observed in the bending test is probably the viscolastic behaviour of the resin. Generally, most polymers show this kind of behaviour, some more pronounced then other. This depends on the degree of polymerization (= average length of the polymer chains) and the "connection" between the polymerchains.
Basically, this behaviour is entropy driven, meaning that the polymer chains will untangle under load but will return into their original position after the stress is taken away. Of course, this only works within a certain degree of deformation. Usually, the degree of viscoelasticity also correlates with the ductility of the polymer.
I like that (if I'm not mistaken) this resin is below 60$ for a liter.
Seems that resins are getting more affordable and with better properties as time goes.
I can buy resing for 30€/kg from AzureFilm. Not sure about the strenght though.
@@zanpekosak2383 I went and looked at their site, and I saw 500ml for 30€ under resin, but not 1L. Do they have half off sales a lot (like Makergeeks used to do) or is there some item I'm missing on their site?
Fuck. Sorry man I missed it! The bottle looked very 1liter-ish to my SLA inexperienced eyes. No they dont offer 1l. Damn.
It is on sale today at Amazon for $45 per liter.
Best content on 3d printing. So much quality information! I love it. Thank you.
Love your videos and already sharing it with our users.
You're welcome. Your resin is a good example to show what this technology can really do besides figurines.
Feel free to btw answer the questions of the viewers.
Wow, you're both thorough and well-equipped for this question.
For engineering prints I think the only two advantages to resin are the strength along all axis (print orientation layers not affecting strength), and the temperature resistance. Sparkmaker LCD-H for instance can go up to 320C. Typically the higher HDT plastics become harder to print on an FDM printer (warping, hardware to print at higher temperatures, etc.), but on a resin printer it's pour the liquid in, and find the right exposure time. Much easier to print something for extreme temperature resistance on a resin printer.
Another great video. I really appreciate the scientific method that you use to do the test. Keep up the good work.
Great investigation into material properties. Most similar videos don't go into this much detail. Very well done!!!!
Seems superior when you need equal strength in multiple directions and/or no layer lines. But damn, what a hassle with sticky stuff and curing and such
Thanks so much for this! Posted this to our 3d printing group. I keep seeing reports of shattering in resin prints. This will help. I wondered about mounting the part under tension and failure happens as it ages. Nothing else seems to fit my observations. You rock!
BTW a little trick to removing prints from the bed on SLA/DLP.. use a flush cutter at the corners of your print and just snip once to get under it the print and the prints will pop right off vs. fighting them with a spatula :)
Phil G had some interesting findings curing his Siraya Blu at 60C which he said gave quite the bump in strength. Perhaps worth a test someday - Resin parts post-cured at different temps.
I had not even thought about the clear resin prints. There's probably all kinds of cool stuff you could do with clear resin prints, LEDs, and clever design.
My underwater robotics team used this resin for a water-tight pneumatics manifold/solenoid enclosure. It’s a good material. We were even able to use press-fit pneumatics fittings.
The first printer I had hands on experience with was the form 2. My favorite material was the abs like blue. The biggest problems I had was warping and other dimensional issues. While the strength of the part isn't dependent on orientation, the warping behavior is. Process also requires orienting the part at an angle to it's axis to limit it's adhesion, so the warp becomes a curl that is really difficult to design around. I found it very difficult to make straight fixture frames, precise slides, etc.
what greatabout this video is. this guy knows engineering unlike other 3d printer videos
The creep u see in the three point bending test is due to stress relaxation. Odds are the resin is displaying viscoelastic properties due to the loading.
Great video btw.
Nice to know a strong resin exists.
A comparision to other resins like Anycubic, Elegoo etc. would be nice. However thanks for the video
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JlqLSi4sxZLdA-hHCp6Ow4isoGMNI7nlE9Nmbj1ajWk/edit#gid=0
rsilvers thanks mate, such a comprehensive comparison. I’m assuming this is a collaboration, can you provide more details? Or maybe some other spreadsheets with other modes of failure? Cheers
@@rsilvers Hope you see this as I am really interested in your findings and looking to buy an SLA printer. I am based in China and have had good experiences dealing with Anycubic so might go for a Photon but in your spreadsheet, somehow the Zortrax prints Blu almost twice as strong as the Photon does. Any idea what that is or if the result can be trusted?
I'm just convinced that I will eventually get an SLA of some sort, and it will be an impulse buy that I will scramble to justify to myself with a new hobby. Those test parts are unreasonably pretty.
I was hesitant about buying ABS-Like resins, because I thought there's no way for a resin to be as strong as normal filaments. Now I know I can safely use these resins for more practical applications.
I dont even have a 3d printer and I feel like an expert watching your channel! Thank you!!!!!
The part in the flex test was deforming because its internal structure, molecules, were realigning into a lower energy state, thus the deformation keeps going until equilibrium is reached or the part snaps due to decrease of the cross section, if said happens the load was already above the parts strength.
Looking for the hysteresis graph, you can see a residual deformation, which means that the material has started plastic deformation. The rise on the deformation after the load applied can be because of the plastic deformation, that not necessarily can happen instantly with the load. The plastic deformation is because of damage suffered (micro cracks) which happens with time. This might not be only creep, which has to do with the viscosity of the material and can happen on the elastic phase as well. It can be combined with creep though.
It seems that the resin was not completely cured. You can try the same test with a resin after a few days of cure, to see if it is the case.
The reason the deformation jumps as you apply load is due to creep of viscoelastic material. Stress causes nucleation of large polymer chains, followed by preferential entanglement of the broken chains.
Let’s see an update of the newer tougher resins plz love your videos they are very educational
as an owner of an fdm printer i think fdm and sla can work and live together. for everyday use fdm is a way to go but there are some exception where you need a very fine detail like miniatures or if you wanna make a silicone mold from a 3d printed part and you want it to be smooth and shiny good looking then you need a printed part from sla machine. i dont own an sla printer but i really need one for that specific area.. no matter how much i try and how perfect my fdm printer is you just cant match the quality..
well you can but you need to put alot more work with body filler alot of sanding with different grits then primer etc whereas you can put half of the effort for washing the sla printed product and uv curing which also will take significantly less time for the same result.
I would like to see ultra clear resin printing lens and mirrors for science projects. Microscope, telescope, fresnel lens, binocular and mirors/lens /beam splitter for hologram fabrication would be awesome!
Thumbs UP, Alex from Québec, Canada
great idea, Evan Morgan (search on youtube) did a project with resin printed magnifying glasses. the optical quality isn't that great due but we are sure it can be further improved.
Should have printed that test hook as a solid part. It would have been VERY strong.
I tested Siraya Tech Fast, both gray and yellowish green and that resin is very resilient for outdoor use. I hung parts outside in direct sunlight and rain for six months over the summer and the parts were unaffected. No surface discoloring or chalky deposits. They looked new. They didn't lose strength and may have become stronger as sunlight UV cross linked the polymer. The part was a dog bone with a central dimension of 5mmX5mm. There were holes on the end for 550 pound test paracord. I was unable to create a tension failure with over 100kg of tensile force. I couldn't snap these parts by bending them in my fingers. The tiny solid parts are incredibly durable, UV resistant and impervious to the elements. The yellow PVC insulation faded on the wire I used to hang the samples outside for 6 months, but the parts didn't fade at all.
Very cool! I'm glad we start to see things like this. I'm currently doing an experiment on my own channel where I print PETG with very thin walls, then back fill it with foam to provide the structure.
If everything goes well, I will have a 5 foot sword that is very durable and very light!
FYI I believe the increased ambient temperature is to reduce the viscosity of the blu resin making it flow better. So after printing you should get no benefit of keeping the ambient temp high with the heater.
Thanks for the test results though very helpful!!!!!
Can you test reinforcing hollow prints with expanding foam, polyurethane, or some other pourable curing polymer?
Would be interesting to see how that stacks up vs infill printed parts. That way you can get a part off the printer faster and reinforce it while the next part prints.
TwiztedMatt1007 with the DLP printers the print time is solely dependent on height, so hollow prints have the same build time as solids, only the quantity of resin changes. And a solid part will always be stronger than an infilled piece as the outer layers (bending moment - like an I-beam) or weaker portions (think tensile test) fail first.
Stefan, first: as always you made a great video. Second: I think you unintended put some stress concentrators on the hooks that you tested. On your video you showed one hook that breaks because one of them and I'm pretty sure that the other one also failed because of them too. It would be interesting if you redesign the drain holes and put them on non critical areas under stress.
I noticed that too... the FDM hooks break further up. The infill pattern also looks very coarse(?) compared to the different types he has tested. I couldn't tell if that may have also contributed. With the detail of resin printers I would have expected it to be finer. Possibly that is normally done due to the brittle nature of most resins?
Really interesting and surprising results. Thumb up for you 👍😁
I was really hoping for a new splash screen since you have your shiny new logo now.
Do you see yourself using sla printers much? Or is it just a novelty for maybe making miniatures?
It would be interesting to see this revisited today, I feel like there are many more options for strong resins on the market now
Would love to see a solid FDM and a solid resin hook. If the advantage of MSLA is that entire layers print at the same time, it should be more efficient (time) to print a solid resin hook vs. FDM. Great work!
I bet its equally strong in both directions because instead of a constant line of filament, resin printers that use LCDs produce small dots around each pixel so there wouldn't be much difference between each direction
I saw the thumbnail's blue tint and transparency and said 'Hey! That's Siraya I bet.' I found them on Amazon recently - wasn't so much looking for an engineering resin as just looking for more affordable resin and they had some at $40 for 1L (in the resin world that's pretty good). One thing that's really cool about resin printing is the ability to modify the resins. On an FDM printer if I want to modify a plastic's properties I have to do it while using an extruder like a Filastruder. You can't modify it as the end purchaser of the filament. With resin you can modify the properties easily. Want a more flexible, less rigid, tougher, less brittle piece? Put 25% of their 'Tenacious' flexible resin in with 75% of their Blu resin. Want a more rigid, less flexible, higher hardness, and are ok with a little more brittleness? Go with 25% of their Sculpt resin then. It's best to stay within the same brand, and you can do the same thing with other resin brands too.
looks like you are already in our user group. based on the ratio of mixing I am temped to guess who you are :D
@@sirayatech2 I did join the Facebook group when I first saw you on Amazon (Siraya Tech users group). I read about that ratio in the group, but I'm not the one that originated the ratio. I wish we could link to videos that are hosted on Facebook more easily. Somebody in the comments here asked how that first model Stefan showed (where he broke the sword off easily) would fare in Blu, and it really makes me think of that video somebody posted where they combined Blu with Tenacious and they were unable to break a 1.5mm section of their part off with their bare hand. (they said it was for a lightsaber project) Edit: Turns out that guy also commented here, further down, I'll ask him if he could post the video on RUclips.
When I first saw the AnyCubic Photon Mono and cura I was in love with the print method and was keen to cut over immediately as most of my Filament printing was marred by stringing and failed build plate adhesion. However after considering the resin issues: more brittle (solved here), the fumes during printing (I need a new place to print), the chemicals in the washup being expensive, the UV unknowns over time, I am left a little flat. Sure the prints are gorgeous however they do not seem 'useful', given the material, for functional items, brackets bearing load outside on my MTB and road bike. feeling a bit flat about it but at least the Filament prints work well on my Core XY printer, even if I must print 1 at a time for the best appearances.
I have used form3 Tough 2000, 1500, and Durable resin to create product prototypes and some actual production parts. With all three I can this. I have created large connectors with up to 70 pins and have also tried printing ev charger handles and heads. I have only one thing to say they are ALL TO BRITTLE. A drop from as little as three feet they break and shatter. I have not found a resin yet that can survive a drop from even the smallest distance. I have also tried phrozen black rock pro (major shrinkage) and phrozen aqua grey (pretty dimensional accurate) and phrozen pro series aqua grey (pretty similar to the aqua but I did get some warpage on curing. I plan on trying the siryatek and peopoli blu resins soon. For me, every resin is too brittle to be considered for manufacturing application. I cannot recommend a part that the first time it is dropped it explodes like a ming vase. However, I do see a possibility to use the resin parts to make urethane molds and poured polyurathne parts
Try this resin in a 80 20 mix with there tenacious resin I think you will change your mind. 80 percent Blu also make sure of you temp
Very interesting and more tests surely welcome!
Thanks so much for this, I've actually emailed Creality this morning for some basic information like this, because all they do is show a model Yoda being printed and never an actual Engineering application.
I don't know for sure, but that's what I'd call a visco-elastic material. Kind of rubbery, but also semi-brittle like silly putty. The deformation is time dependent: if you wait long enough, it will stretch (creep) a lot before reaching a max deformation and failing.
for me all this 3d printed thing always felt like some short-lived thing that people will forget one day, I saw the results on the flesh in several events, and knew it had no real aplications appart from arts and entertainment. the final results didn´t look good, and it was obvious that it had no machine-ready resistance, but now if they start to create materials like this, that would be truelly huge, now I see what that "3d printing dream" had to offer, is mind-blowing what can be done with this, we are up to great times
If you can come up with a test rig to measure heat resistance without poisoning yourself, I'd love to see the results 👍
Another question about this. How it would be to have a plastic printed part, covered with resin, or vice versa? Like using rebar on concrete. I think that is something worth exploring, for example for parts that need FDM-like strength on all axis. Or getting extra strength on impact, by combining with a more tough plastic.
I would love to specifically see a compression test of FDM prints vs SLA, Clearly with 100% infill resin would win, But it's worth at least one mention.
I think I once watched a how it's made episode where reason was used instead injection molding for something. So it's probably used in industry to some extent
Very impressive study Stefan! I would be interested to see your previous study on smart infill applied to resins.
Cool, it was interesting to see how this resin behaves.
Can you get BASF to send you some Ultracur3D ST 45M resin? They are claiming a tensile strength of 60 Mpa and modulus of 2460 Mpa. It's been printing great on an elegoo mars, would be curious to see how it stacks up. Also hardly any stinky smell!
I love your videos. I learned so much from them. Thank you for another great video
I don't think you meant to say the resin will sanitize your skin {to cleanse of germs} but rather irritate the skin.
Probably sensitize. Goes with the allergic reactions he also mentioned, kind of like a latex allergy due to sensitization over time.
7:06 Because Resin crystallize unevenly. Inner structure start crushing after applying too much torque. You need to measure the force that doesn't cause the creeping of value.
Has the thermal performance of resin prints been compared? I.e. heat deflection, etc.
I noticed that these prints were blue prior to curing, and then greenish after. I suspect that this might affect strength. to avoid yellowing during curing, place the parts in water, and possibly distilled water might be best. curing the parts in water stops yellowing completely.
Finally someone that knows the difference between SLA Printers!! You make me so happy! hahaha, Looks like interesting resin indeed! What is the recommended AKA fastest cure wavelength for this resin ? looks like resins developed by Formlabs. My go to resin printer is a true DLP and the heat generated by the halogen light bulb is more then enough to keep the printer a 50 C which is ideal for printing, my Msla printers use 15X 3watt leds they also generate good heat for the small Chemcast top enclosure. EDIT: Top notch video presentation, as always!
The Blu resin cures best at 405nm wavelength. Blu is beating Formlabs Tough on several online torsion tests (search Robert Silvers resin test) and should print very well on a DLP printer
@@sirayatech2 Thank you for the infomation and the quick response time, aside from my DLP printer, my Msla printers use 365nm wavelength, what should i expect? if anything.
@@patprop74 probably very slow to no curing 365 and 405um are quite different. How are the LCD mask enduring the 365um light? better or worse than 405?
Stefan, I always see that you have included the notch into the design of your impact test specimens. They are actually supposed to be a straight bar with the notch "cut" out to eliminate the variables due to surface tension on the walls. This is a very important factor for accurate results.
@CNCKitchen Stefan, awsome Video as many others. I am really happy that you are looking into those resins too. Cured and washed the parts should be relatively safe healthwise. FDM printing is in discussion as well, so printing in a well ventilated area or using filters should be standard for both methods. (As long you are not smoking anyway. ;-) ) What was the break elongation?
I would be very interested in your findings regarding temp resistance and long term stability. Maybe you can put it in a transparent case before putting in your oven. But with the fully cured material I wouldn't be too concerned about health issues. I guess it will become soft around 60-90° C because of being a tough resin.
very good observation. Any tough resin would be have some flexibility and the more flexible a resin is, the lower HDT. We do have resins that can hit 160C without softening too but they are more brittle and is more for molding application
Have you heard of Phrozen's Nylon-Green resin? It's supposed to be even tougher than Siraya Tech Blu. I would be interested to see maybe a follow-up video with that and maybe new tough resins and see how they compare along with different mixes. Anyways, great video as always!
Your knowledge is very important.
Thanks
Nice Charpy impact tester.
I'm actually quite surprised that the toughness stood up so well compared to PLA/PETG. I noticed in this video you did a bend test with weight on it instead of doing a heat test. I'm curious how well resin holds up to similar heats that would bend/warp PLA/PETG. Did you have any data on that? I'm also curious what the print times were for a tray of parts versus FDM, factoring in cleaning and curing?
I don't know if I will ever use this data beyond simple trivia, as I only print in PLA on my home printer, but I just love seeing you torture those parts and then break it down into statistical graphs. I need to find a job where I get to break things and write down numbers all day.
the resin filament looks much better compared to fdm and the independency of the mechanical properties to the printing orientations should make it behave more like isotropic materials and this way to behave more predictably by strength analysis and simulations. i would say that it is much favorable for mechanical demanding parts
Nice impact charpies man. I used to cut those out on wire edm from various metal assemblies all the time.
The viscoelasticity might be a really big issue with this material, i have used FDM plastics that had this issue and if it had any kind of permanent loading on the part it would slowly creep and bend, in my case it was bolted down and the bolts would become loose over time.
Adding a test for this might come in handy, along with wear resistance such as for a gear.
Excellent. I'd love to see any comparisons/recommendations for flexible resins too if possible :)
Very nice, So Which common material is best for day to day use on the fdm and sla range? Material that has a good strength, less uv impact and durability? Cheers!
I returned to 3D printing solely because of resin printing. In my opinion, for my needs, resin is the only way to go, and produces prints far superior to FDM. The smell, and mess is really not an issue, if you plan ahead with a system of process which makes it no trouble, and all in much easier then FDM.
and faster / quieter print as well
I've been printing with SLA printers for several months now and I'm wondering why you did the two IPA baths for 15 minutes each. That seems like an extremely long time and maybe have actually weakened the parts? Normally I don't dunk my pieces for more than 30 seconds per bath. I've also heard that curing Siraya Blu under water works better as well, so it may be possible to get better results post-cure.
Hey Stefan, I came across your channel about a month ago and since then have been binge watching all your videos haha. I've gotta say, you've gotten me to finally get around to fixing my 3d printer and start some new projects again!
I was curious as to how you added the 'lattice structure' to the inside of the hook before printing it on the mSLA printer. What software did you use to achieve that? I have been trying to figure out how to export the 'sliced' STL models with the infill back to my CAD software to do some FEA using different infills but haven't figured it out yet.
Thanks for your time! Keep up the great quality content
Availability in Europe?
Siraya Tech is US based company, they don't have European resellers jet,
so are Peopoly tough resins just rebranded Sirayas or?
You can now buy it on peopoly official site. Blu is similar to Tough but is calibrated for LCD printers.
@@sirayatech2 Great !!! Can we espect soon tenacious resin to be available in peopoly store too?
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