total newbie to this stuff. at 2:10 when you said you're gonna wanna short those terminals together or else you can get a nasty shock, could you please explain to me what exactly you're saying i should do by shorting the terminals together? appreciate it!
hey friend, i'm sorry to bother but i wanted to follow up on my comment from a couple weeks ago cause i've got one of these i'd like to work on but i wanted to know what you were talking about at the referenced timestamp. thanks, i really appreciate the video!
@@PeterViox a capacitor stores electrical energy across its terminals, like a battery. the reason you short those terminals is to dissipate any remaining charge in it, and avoid getting shocked. practically however, you'll almost never get shocked on these kindve systems because, after power is disconnected, the capacitors will quickly discharge through the compressor windings without any outside intervention. but its better to be safe then sorry.
@@hafizshaltu4872 thank you very much for that explanation. Like I said, total newbie here, so I’ll ask one more: what’s the correct and safe way to short that capacitor? I’m unfamiliar with how to do that.
@@PeterViox my pleasure. shorting a capacitor is as simple as touching both sides of a capacitor at the same time using something conductive. a screwdriver, a wrench, a spoon, anything metal. just make sure your hand/body is insulated though.
@@damianflores2091I believe these are retro looking coolers? If so just start with the simple diagnoses. Is there power? Is the evaporator fan running? Is the evaporator frozen? Is the condenser fan motor running ? Is the compressor running? Is the condenser coil dirty? If these all check out it’s most likely something relating to the refrigerant. And you would have to gauge up. If one of those questions above does not meet with the requirements then it will be something in that field. Bad fan motor, bad starting components on the compressor (as seen on the video ) or a bad thermostat.
@@TheDave5619 Got a GDM-15 Retro not cooling with a PF2 (faulty condenser temperature) message during test. I believe everything else is working. Compressor, fans (cond & evap), lights are turning on, everything is clean.. Thoughts on how to troubleshoot further?
@@TheDave5619 Thank you for the reply. I actually figured out the PF2 mystery.... There is no sensor connected to the EMS controller. So it's only "natural" that is is giving a PF2 message! :-D My next step is to figure out why it's not cooling. I get some warmer copper tubing going to the condenser and the copper tubing coming out is colder. I havent had a chance to measure the exact differential temperature just yet compared to the air in my workshop so it's my next step. I suspecting that the unit might need a reload of freon since it does not show any signs of having been serviced since 2016.
I got one on marketplace for $100 and he said it was doing the same thing lol. I’m going through trying to troubleshoot everything. Did you find a solution?
@@jacobbarnett9956 I feel you lol. I spent 45 minutes cleaning the inside and I slide the compressor out and blew everything out and started learning about how to fix a fridge. Whole new skill I’m learning right now lol. I’ll update if I find the easy fix for it
Leaks are kind of rare. 9/10 it's a component along the way. Condenser fan kicked on, so t-stat seemed ok. Pressure isn't something you want to measure unless you suspect leak, you never really want to open these up. Parts cost, no idea but it's easy enough to find. You can get a hard start kit with your specs and it's cheap and easy to find and will solve the problem, though not ideal.
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ocOW2GYxdTE/mqdefault.jpg)
🇺🇸👍💪❄️ nice video any follow-up is the unit still running after replacing start components ? Thanks for sharing
Still working?
What is it when the condenser fan motor isn’t running with the deck plugged in and compressor isn’t running?
total newbie to this stuff. at 2:10 when you said you're gonna wanna short those terminals together or else you can get a nasty shock, could you please explain to me what exactly you're saying i should do by shorting the terminals together? appreciate it!
hey friend, i'm sorry to bother but i wanted to follow up on my comment from a couple weeks ago cause i've got one of these i'd like to work on but i wanted to know what you were talking about at the referenced timestamp. thanks, i really appreciate the video!
@@PeterViox a capacitor stores electrical energy across its terminals, like a battery. the reason you short those terminals is to dissipate any remaining charge in it, and avoid getting shocked. practically however, you'll almost never get shocked on these kindve systems because, after power is disconnected, the capacitors will quickly discharge through the compressor windings without any outside intervention. but its better to be safe then sorry.
@@hafizshaltu4872 thank you very much for that explanation. Like I said, total newbie here, so I’ll ask one more: what’s the correct and safe way to short that capacitor? I’m unfamiliar with how to do that.
@@PeterViox my pleasure. shorting a capacitor is as simple as touching both sides of a capacitor at the same time using something conductive. a screwdriver, a wrench, a spoon, anything metal. just make sure your hand/body is insulated though.
Nice diagnosis! I work on coke’s equipment
Any recommendations on where to start checking a GDM-15EM? NOT COOLING
@@damianflores2091I believe these are retro looking coolers? If so just start with the simple diagnoses.
Is there power?
Is the evaporator fan running?
Is the evaporator frozen?
Is the condenser fan motor running ?
Is the compressor running?
Is the condenser coil dirty?
If these all check out it’s most likely something relating to the refrigerant. And you would have to gauge up.
If one of those questions above does not meet with the requirements then it will be something in that field. Bad fan motor, bad starting components on the compressor (as seen on the video ) or a bad thermostat.
@@TheDave5619 Got a GDM-15 Retro not cooling with a PF2 (faulty condenser temperature) message during test. I believe everything else is working. Compressor, fans (cond & evap), lights are turning on, everything is clean.. Thoughts on how to troubleshoot further?
@@fdelacou sorry for the late reply. I read online PF2 is a Evap sensor. Is this a dixell controller ? The one you’re working on?
@@TheDave5619 Thank you for the reply. I actually figured out the PF2 mystery.... There is no sensor connected to the EMS controller. So it's only "natural" that is is giving a PF2 message! :-D
My next step is to figure out why it's not cooling. I get some warmer copper tubing going to the condenser and the copper tubing coming out is colder. I havent had a chance to measure the exact differential temperature just yet compared to the air in my workshop so it's my next step. I suspecting that the unit might need a reload of freon since it does not show any signs of having been serviced since 2016.
Picked up this machine or something similar for free on the side of the road yesterday, upon plugging it in it started heating the inside lmao
I got one on marketplace for $100 and he said it was doing the same thing lol. I’m going through trying to troubleshoot everything. Did you find a solution?
@@ashercooper4017 I haven't done much yet, I'm not very fridge inclined. It's on my list of things to do tho lmao
@@jacobbarnett9956 I feel you lol. I spent 45 minutes cleaning the inside and I slide the compressor out and blew everything out and started learning about how to fix a fridge. Whole new skill I’m learning right now lol. I’ll update if I find the easy fix for it
What about the thermostat if it bad?? What about the line tap?? What type of pressures should the unit run at?? How much are the parts?? $$$
For you, minimum of $400 because of all the questions. You sir would be over our shoulder during the whole process.........
Must be related to the lower case patels .
@@l2kxboostworst customers ever.
Leaks are kind of rare. 9/10 it's a component along the way. Condenser fan kicked on, so t-stat seemed ok. Pressure isn't something you want to measure unless you suspect leak, you never really want to open these up. Parts cost, no idea but it's easy enough to find. You can get a hard start kit with your specs and it's cheap and easy to find and will solve the problem, though not ideal.
Thomas Charles Lewis Jeffrey Walker Scott