Excellent instruction video. Everything is clearly explained step by step. Good visual explanation by using correct camera angle & sufficient amount of light on the subject. This video could save a lot of lives by maintaining the brakes in it's optimum condition.
Thank you so much. I will be installing my daughters brake pads in 2 days. I have installed pads/rotors and I even put a wheel bearing in my Mercedes when I was too poor to own one LOL. So this was a great refresher for me.
Sir, you’re an outstanding instructor/teacher with excellent pro tips. You’ve got a new subscriber here with notification checked. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge.
Hi Jim - good job - before the new rotors are to be put on put a little never seize on the wheel hub to prevent rust and a sticky rotor also apply a small dab of never seize on the rotor screws that will make them come off easy next time with out being stripped .
I usually remove some fluid with a turkey baster (only used in the garage now LOL) and shove a no lint rag inside the reservoir. That keeps it from dripping on any thing under the hood.
Super good info! The trick to get the screws out was worth a fortune. I didn't know to lube all those places either. Now I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Pretty good video. I'm going to change my own front brake shoes and calipers on my 2014 Sonata. This will be my 3rd brake job...first on a Hyundai Sonata. Thanks.
Very Nicely presented. You have shown me several hints at doing pads on my Kia Sorento. Thank you for you attention to detail. Keep up the good work. Bill W.
This channel is great. Thanks. I’m not a mechanic but I am going to take a shot at replacing my front rotors and brakes. They were ok but I didn’t use my Santa Fe much these past two years. Maybe 10 times each tear. Now, my front left brake makes a loud crunching sound when I press the brake pedal. Could there be something else wrong. My friend does not think it’s the caliper because it only happens when I brake and it isn’t frozen or locking. I just don’t want to be too surprised when I remove everything. Is there anything I should be looking for?
Great Job Jim! I am about to do my rotors on my 2011 Elantra they are starting to scrape. I had a tough time unscrewing the rotor screws so I ended up drilling the heads out.
Hey Jim, can you explain why we don’t turn rotors anymore or just replace the pads? Every time i have my brakes done they want to replace rotors. Thanks.
Hi Jim. I noticed you didn't re use the shim that goes behind the inner pad. You showed it at the end of the video, rusted and still on the old pad. Is this an ok practice? I'm doing this exact job today.
I have a question, I've heard that compressing the piston when you have older brake fluid can push that into the ABS and damage it. So if I plan on replacing front pads and rotors myself, should I have the brake fluid flushed before? I was planning on taking it somewhere to have it flushed after I changed the pads and rotors because I don't feel comfortable flushing it myself, but now I'm afraid I might damage the ABS system. Btw your video was great and it made me feel much more comfortable with changing my own pads and rotors to save some money!
Really good video. Thanks. I’m most worried about those Phillips head screws that hold the rotor in. I’ll end up stripping those, I wonder if you can buy replacements that have a hex key head. Always looks easier until I get started and realize everything is stuck on tight.
Hi Jim, great job and easy to follow along. This is essentially how I did the fronts on our Sonata but I found that one of the slide pins was rather tight even after cleaning it and applying new grease. How do you handle something like this? It was only one of the pins, the other had a flat side that I think provided some room for the grease and air to escape.
Hi Jim, very good teaching video, is it possible to get the torque setting for the front and rear brakes and rotors replacement, including the suspension bar bolt at the rear, thanks.
Followed your instructions but in a 2011 Santa Fe. Worked great. The only thing is that when I finished, my anti lock brakes light is pinned on. Any ideas. Probably not a coincidence so I must have done something wrong. Thanks.
Hi Jim. Awesome video. Do you have a video on the rears for a 2011 Sonata. Not as easy. They screwed up when they designed it. You have to remove the shock and pull it away. Any good advice if no video...Thanks, Marc
@@Dimebolt101 He does have a video doing the rear as well. Excellent video. Only tough part is lining the rear control arm back up when you put it back in. Everything else is easy.
When you push the piston in...... don't you remove the master cylinder cap ? After the job is done....and you have pump the brake pedal.....don't you top up the brake fluid level in the master culinder?
To answer all your question 1. /. You don't have to open the master cylinder unless it is over filled 2 /. Yes you have to pump the pedal to reset the piston on the caliper 3 / No you don't have to top off the master cylinder unless you lost fluid during the brake job
Hi Jim, Thanks very much for the video! It is very clear, detailed and professional. I noticed that you clean just about everything except for the bore that the sliding pins go into, is there a particular reason for this or is it usually just not necessary?
Hi Jim, I tried doing this yesterday with miserable results. You mention that there are two bolts. A 14mm & a 17mm. Well, I got the 14mm loose without a problem, but the 17mm doesn't exist. I have a Sonata 2011 so I expected that this would be the perfect video for me. However the "17mm" turns out to be a star, or torx. I went to the auto parts store and bought a set of the appropriate sockets and came back and learned that the larges size in the pack is an E20, which is too small I took them back and was told that they don't carry anything larger. I tried another auto parts store and then on to Harbor Freight. No one has anything that will fit this star head. Have you run into this before? Do you have any suggestions before I have to put everything back together and take the car and the parts that I bought with my tail between my legs and go to a local garage?
I just changed the pads and rotor on my 2011 sonata, and I had to drill out the rotor retaining screws. Do you have to use those? I reassembled the wheel without them.
No thats Ok you can leave the off. One thing did you drill the retaining screw flush ? Thank you for watching . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
Bill Link when I compressed my piston I took the cap off my brake fluid reservoir first. Brake fluid rose to the top but didn't spill once my piston was compressed.
Don't forget subscribe and hit the bell for notification when a new video is posted.
000000
Amazingly detailed video! I just saved a ton of money on my car maintenance by switching to RUclips! You sir just made this daunting task look simple!
yeah try doing the rears lol in a driveway lol worst design of all time
VERY good presentation. I've done brakes on several vehicles over the years. Your instruction is excellent.
best hyundai brake replacement video on youtube
Excellent instruction video. Everything is clearly explained step by step. Good visual explanation by using correct camera angle & sufficient amount of light on the subject. This video could save a lot of lives by maintaining the brakes in it's optimum condition.
Thank you so much. I will be installing my daughters brake pads in 2 days. I have installed pads/rotors and I even put a wheel bearing in my Mercedes when I was too poor to own one LOL. So this was a great refresher for me.
A true demonstration of real craftmanship!
Mommy of 3 here! I'm so grateful for your clear explanation! I was able to do both front breaks, and my driver side rotor! ❤❤❤
Great job. I'm happy to help.
Sir, you’re an outstanding instructor/teacher with excellent pro tips. You’ve got a new subscriber here with notification checked. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge.
Hi Jim - good job - before the new rotors are to be put on put a little never seize on the wheel hub to prevent rust and a sticky rotor also apply a small dab of never seize on the rotor screws that will make them come off easy next time with out being stripped .
I watched so many break replacement videos; but you are a Pro! THANK YOU !!
Wow, thanks!
Thank you! You saved me a lot of money! I did my own break replacement 12 years ago, so I needed a refresher.
First pop the hood and loosen the brake reservoir cap and place drip tray under car,check fluid after installing
I always remove some brake fluid fron the Master cylinder....
I usually remove some fluid with a turkey baster (only used in the garage now LOL) and shove a no lint rag inside the reservoir. That keeps it from dripping on any thing under the hood.
Very thorough and detailed! Confidence builder.
Super good info! The trick to get the screws out was worth a fortune. I didn't know to lube all those places either. Now I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One of the most detailed and clear videos I have seen. Thanks
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching
I like this video it wasn’t too much but still had extra little tips n tricks 👍🏾
Glad you liked it!!
Pretty good video. I'm going to change my own front brake shoes and calipers on my 2014 Sonata. This will be my 3rd brake job...first on a Hyundai Sonata. Thanks.
Very Nicely presented. You have shown me several hints at doing pads on my Kia Sorento. Thank you for you attention to detail. Keep up the good work. Bill W.
Thank you for a very instructional video.I just replaced mine on a 2011 hyundai i30 exactly the same procedure.Thanks for posting Procedure
Very well done, best DIY car video. Thank you.
Thank you this was very helpful I'm actually going to change my own brakes for the first time and this video was really helpful
Glad it helped
Cool. Best most detailed explanation I've seen yet. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Jim, great video, Can you provide the torque specs for the front brakes of a 2010 santa fe? Thanks
Thanks for being so detailed and specfic, awesome RUclips.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good detailed video. Thank you sir for helping others.
Glad it was helpful!
1st time I checked out one of your videos. Great detail!! Thank you for your time!!
Thanks for watching. Don't forget subscribe and hit the bell for notification when a new video is posted.
This channel is great. Thanks. I’m not a mechanic but I am going to take a shot at replacing my front rotors and brakes. They were ok but I didn’t use my Santa Fe much these past two years. Maybe 10 times each tear. Now, my front left brake makes a loud crunching sound when I press the brake pedal. Could there be something else wrong. My friend does not think it’s the caliper because it only happens when I brake and it isn’t frozen or locking. I just don’t want to be too surprised when I remove everything. Is there anything I should be looking for?
Great Job Jim! I am about to do my rotors on my 2011 Elantra they are starting to scrape. I had a tough time unscrewing the rotor screws so I ended up drilling the heads out.
S J Make sure the screws are drilled out flat. If they stick up a little bit it will cause the rotors to wobble.
Hey Jim, can you explain why we don’t turn rotors anymore or just replace the pads? Every time i have my brakes done they want to replace rotors. Thanks.
What are the torque specs?
Hi Jim. I noticed you didn't re use the shim that goes behind the inner pad. You showed it at the end of the video, rusted and still on the old pad. Is this an ok practice? I'm doing this exact job today.
I have a question, I've heard that compressing the piston when you have older brake fluid can push that into the ABS and damage it. So if I plan on replacing front pads and rotors myself, should I have the brake fluid flushed before? I was planning on taking it somewhere to have it flushed after I changed the pads and rotors because I don't feel comfortable flushing it myself, but now I'm afraid I might damage the ABS system. Btw your video was great and it made me feel much more comfortable with changing my own pads and rotors to save some money!
Really good video. Thanks. I’m most worried about those Phillips head screws that hold the rotor in. I’ll end up stripping those, I wonder if you can buy replacements that have a hex key head. Always looks easier until I get started and realize everything is stuck on tight.
Excellent video. Thanks 😊
Super helpful video. Thanks for posting.
Fantastic video Jim. I noticed you replaced the clips. Do you recommend that every time?
Chris H Yes, you do replace the clips every time.
Do you have to take the cover off of the Master Cylinder? That’s what I was told by a mechanic
You made that so Easy so thank you Sir
You are welcome
@jimthecarguy yeah this is the first asian car I have bought
Great video thanks JIm
Great Video!!. What is the name of the tool that you used to push back the piston?
Hi Jim, great job and easy to follow along. This is essentially how I did the fronts on our Sonata but I found that one of the slide pins was rather tight even after cleaning it and applying new grease. How do you handle something like this? It was only one of the pins, the other had a flat side that I think provided some room for the grease and air to escape.
If the pins are still tight after you lube them you may have to change the caliper and bracket.
Hi Jim, very good teaching video, is it possible to get the torque setting for the front and rear brakes and rotors replacement, including the suspension bar bolt at the rear, thanks.
Where can I jack/support my 2011 Sonata besides at the pinch welds?
Excellent video, thanks for shared
Glad you enjoyed it
Followed your instructions but in a 2011 Santa Fe. Worked great. The only thing is that when I finished, my anti lock brakes light is pinned on. Any ideas. Probably not a coincidence so I must have done something wrong. Thanks.
You should go back into the brake and check the ABS sensors and connectors.
What tool did you use to compress the piston?
Use can use a C clamp to compress the piston
Hi Jim. Awesome video. Do you have a video on the rears for a 2011 Sonata. Not as easy. They screwed up when they designed it. You have to remove the shock and pull it away. Any good advice if no video...Thanks, Marc
2nd this comment.... Going to be doing my wife's car likely all the way around and would like to do the whole job myself.
@@Dimebolt101 He does have a video doing the rear as well. Excellent video. Only tough part is lining the rear control arm back up when you put it back in. Everything else is easy.
When you push the piston in...... don't you remove the master cylinder cap ? After the job is done....and you have pump the brake pedal.....don't you top up the brake fluid level in the master culinder?
To answer all your question
1. /. You don't have to open the master cylinder unless it is over filled
2 /. Yes you have to pump the pedal to reset the piston on the caliper
3 / No you don't have to top off the master cylinder unless you lost fluid during the brake job
Priceless information. 👍
Thanks for watching.I'm happy to help.
Good explanation great job
Glad it was helpful!
Will a disk brake spreader/compressor work also?
Hi Jim, Thanks very much for the video! It is very clear, detailed and professional. I noticed that you clean just about everything except for the bore that the sliding pins go into, is there a particular reason for this or is it usually just not necessary?
Good question.Most time you don't need to do anything except lube the pins unless your are replacing the rubber boots.
Hi Jim, I tried doing this yesterday with miserable results. You mention that there are two bolts. A 14mm & a 17mm. Well, I got the 14mm loose without a problem, but the 17mm doesn't exist. I have a Sonata 2011 so I expected that this would be the perfect video for me. However the "17mm" turns out to be a star, or torx. I went to the auto parts store and bought a set of the appropriate sockets and came back and learned that the larges size in the pack is an E20, which is too small I took them back and was told that they don't carry anything larger. I tried another auto parts store and then on to Harbor Freight. No one has anything that will fit this star head. Have you run into this before? Do you have any suggestions before I have to put everything back together and take the car and the parts that I bought with my tail between my legs and go to a local garage?
Can you send me a picture of the bolt?
thnxs for the video. all detail i got a question.do i need to do both is it recomended.?
Yes you should replace both left and right sides.
Thanks for the help!
Is that not an impact screwdriver that you were using? Why hit them with the punch?
Great video! Thank you
I'm happy to help.
Hey I just replaced my brakes and rotors and I hear a sliding like noise when I accelerate
How do you replace the studs on the rotor?
I just changed the pads and rotor on my 2011 sonata, and I had to drill out the rotor retaining screws. Do you have to use those? I reassembled the wheel without them.
No thats Ok you can leave the off. One thing did you drill the retaining screw flush ? Thank you for watching . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
what tool is that he uses to push the piston back? please that tool will be helpful!
A large "C" clamp or very large channel locks
wow I noticed the 7 spline bolts holding piston bracket together. Never seen that before.
I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
What size are the bolts ?
Nice and simple
Thanks for watching.
When you push in the caliper piston, doesn't it cause the brake fluid to over fill the reservoir?
Bill Link when I compressed my piston I took the cap off my brake fluid reservoir first. Brake fluid rose to the top but didn't spill once my piston was compressed.
You never mentioned the torque settings on the caliper mount bolts.
57.9-72.3 lb-ft
How would you figure that they are properly torqued?
Thank you!
Hi Jim, was this your 8,456,942 brake job in your career, or was I off by 1 or 2?
joel mccoin LOL at least that much. Appreciate the comment, thanks for watching.
Is this job similar to a 2006 Hyundai Tucson? I can't find a video on this.
Yes it should be the same.If you need any help let me know. I'm happy to help thanks for watching.
Thank you, you a saved us
Happy to help
Is there a way to tell if the rotor is OEM?
Thanks for watching
What are the caliper bolt torque specs for a 2010 Maxima? Thanks
Thank you
exelent Video you are pro
Happy to help!
Are you from NY, Jersey....NE?
Wouldn't it be easier it take the cap off the master cylinder when your pushing the piston in?
Mainely History No there is no need to, as long as you didn't overfill the master cylinder.
Thank you sir
Very good job 😅
Thank you very much!
Do you need to bleed the brakes?
Unless you change the caliper, there is no need..
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you
You're welcome
Why did you replace the rotors and pads they looked fine
Good question.Because the brake pedal would shake when applying
I think you forgot the clips in the back of the brake pads.... 🤔🤔
professional
maha ali Thank you for watching the video. I do appreciate your comments.
You shouls put anti-seize grease just before putting the new rotor everywhere their was rust....
Amazing video! Thank you!
Thank you for the very nice and helpful video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
How do you replace the studs on the rotor?