Thanks Rob. This rifle has always been accurate. It was bought new my me and has fired about 5000 jacketed bullets and still shoots great. Ideally I would like to work up a cast load useful out to 300 yards or so, to keep from getting too poor from shooting jacketed bullets.
I was wishing that I had taken the time to weight sort the bullets, might have eliminated the "flyers" in the groups, but still I was pleased with how they shot.
That should be a decent cast bullet gun if the original chamber was not messed with. A lot of 1905's went to the USA and had their chambers hogged out so that they would accept poorly made ammo.
@@314299 my chamber seems to be decent. Brass that comes out resizes super easy. I’ve not casted for it yet. I’ve mostly handloaded hornaday 174 grain interlock for it.
I don't think I would clean that barrel if I planned on shooting lead in it again. In general I find that 5 to 10 fouling shots in a clean bore are required to get good groups back after a cleaning.
I agree completly. I once spent an entire summer shooting a 30/06 with cast bullets, never doing any more than occasionally pushing a dry patch down the bore. However this rifle is used for both jacketed and cast, but mostly jacketed, so it was cleaned after use.
Your not supposed to use harsh solvents to get lead or copper out of a barrel and cleaning copper out of a barrel is the worst thing you could do to your barrel and dumb as well.
@@joshlower1Where the heck did you hear that "cleaning copper out of a barrel is the worst thing you could do to your barrel"? Copper fouled barrels end up shooting like crap. Leaded barrels shoot like crap.
I can recommend the Lyman 323470 for 8x57mm , it produces a a 165 grain round nose gas check bullet that has been a good performer for me in my rifles.
Lyman cast bullet handbook. They have data for a similar Lyman bullet of the same weight, so of course there is some variation but close enough for my purposes.
These were loaded before I bought a digital scale/powder dispenser, with that unit I find it far more convenient to sort bullets and routinely do so with the rifle cast bullets I have been loading. If nothing else it eliminates the abnormally light and heavy projectiles.
The plastic is no doubt acceptable and more stable than wood. Other than that,the scope,the barrel etc,that is one fine looking rifle. How long have you owned it ? I am more than a little jealous you have both it and a place you can comfortably show some of its long distance legs. And whatever weight of decent lead you possess. Good shooting on a nice day.
This is a rifle I have owned for about five years or so shot it a lot, put close to five thousand rounds thru it the first couple years. The rifle has an HS Precision fiberglass stock with an aluminum bedding block, an excellent stock , much better than some of the cheap injection molded ones.
You've managed to get me interested in casting again, since I have this mold. Have you compared groups with this boolit to groups with the Lee 312-185?
To me the two bullets are for different uses. The RCBS 30-180 being useful for 308, 30/06 and other true .308" dimension rifles while the Lee 312-185 is for the "big" 30's like 7.62x54, 7.65, and some 303's that have .310 to .313" barrels. As a result it is difficult to compare the performance of the two designs as most of the guns I use the RCBS bullet in are much newer and more accurate to start with than most of the old guns I would use the Lee bullet in.
Can you tell me what bullet lube you are using and how well you like it in rifle velocity loads? I am currently using White Label lube products carnauba red and seem to have good luck. Always like to know what others are using however. Great shooting and love the 5R barrel!
The bullet lube used is a "home brew" consisting mostly of white lithium grease and unrefined bees wax with some old Lyman graphite bullet lube added. The graphite is what gives it the dark grey color.
so i had a weird idea of wanting to cast my own 308 boolits im glad someone is already doing this xD some questions if i may, gas check or no gas check? also if i just did normal reload and used a cast round instead of HPBT or some such would that tear the lead projectile apart is that why people are keeping lower velocities?
Loading for .308 you will want to use a gas check. You need to use special load data with cast lead bullets, especially in rifle calibers. Using data intended for jacketed bullets will give unsatisfactory results. Jacketed bullet load data is generally for quite high velocity, much higher velocity than cast bullets will tolerate in the .308 round. Too much velocity will usually result in "leading" where the lead from the bullets is left stuck in the bore and this of course leads to poor accuracy. Decent accuracy is much easier to obtain in the 1500 to 1800 fps range, and some loads can be accurate as fast as 2000 to 2100 fps, over that takes work to get right. I suggest you purchase and read the "Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook", you can learn a lot of the details and at the same time get tested load data.
@@314299 aye ive added that to my shopping list, one of the accurate moulds i spied in my quest for data appeared flat base no gas check so that threw me off a little bit and thus is assume no gas check loads are probably subsonic?
@@314299 awesome i have picked that up, have you ever tried a paper patch in 308 or is that just alot of effort when u can cast and add a gas check and size at the same time? also like this may sound silly but can that level of accuracy be repeated out for afew hundred meters i has the thought mainly as i was getting into black powder and because ammo here in aus is just hard to come by and other problems in the world etc so i figured casting and making my own cheap might help but people seem to say with 308 and the like out to 500 is impossible yet i know my muzzle loading match rifle with a grease groove slug can punch out to 1000 yards granted its like a 500 gr round but still
hi, I reload with german bullets H&N Sports lead with 120microns copper washing and PVD surface treatment, powder is Vithavuori N110 about one third in weight compared to full load with FMJs... in a Swedish Carl Gustav Match 63 Biathlon rifle, the elevation is at 400m shooting at 100m range; how many clicks to compensate the drop on yr scope ? Good question, ha ? 😃
I would say that your rest for the rifle is jumping around under recoil, I would wager that those groups would tighten up if you had a soldier rest for the rifle. I'm not nick picking, those were fine shooting bullets and worthy of taking medium game humanly such as Coyote. I have a Remington 700, it's an SSD model, it suffers build quality and precision components in its make up.I'm not pleased with the product. I hope that Remington steps up and starts making rifles like they used to. Dave.
Good point. The rifle is indeed moving around under recoil, however it is heavy enough and the recoil of these rounds light enough that I decided to not hold the front but let move on it's own, hoping that I could repeat the same "jump" with each shot. How a rifle is rested/held can have a big effect on group size and point of impact, especially with a light rifle with a lot of recoil. It's too bad about your 700 being unsatisfactory. I'm pleased with the 700 5R but they are a more expensive option than many of the other 700 models.
A couple of reasons for the modest velocity. First of all I see no need for higher speeds for shooting paper targets at short range, and second small charges of powder make for more economical shooting. For longer range or hunting with cast the velocity certainly can be increased.
wish someone would make cast for my 223 bolt,,, now that was funny,,,, at 2:38 that poor fly had his butt inside the barrel when you fired,,,, wonder if he felt it,,LOL
It's pretty much a matter of casting them yourself as there are not a lot of commercial suppliers for cast rifle bullets. As for the fly I think he was trying to spoil my group by getting in the way of the bullet.
It's worth a try but only if you are loading for the upper limits of what you can do with cast bullets in rifles. A better all round powder is 2400,but for lower velocities.
Ironically when I was in the military one of the other guys could not pronounce my last name and so he took to calling me "Miyagi" - that was back in the 1980's.
The RCBS molds I have used have been excellent and are a lifetime purchase if properly cared for, so yes I do think they are worth the cost especially if they make a bullet useful for multiple calibers.
Cast bullets tend to get deformed if sized too much in sizing die so these were run thru a .311" just to crimp the gas check on them and to apply the lube. The best "sizing die" is the barrel. Of course there are limits as to how big a bullet one can load, but if a cast bullet loaded case chambers freely it's not too big.
@@314299 OK good to know I've been loading 200 grain lee 308 cast gas check bullets in 300blk but been using the 308 sizer after powder coating. I'll have to look into the 309 311 sizer dies
Are there any reliable lead sources in Canada, would love to get back into casting but having issues finding smaller amounts as in couple hundred pounds of lead. Only source in my area wants you to get ton.
I rely on the usual scrounging around at scrap yards and tire shops. Recently got lucky and bought out a buddy who was into making lead shot. Having said that I'm not aware of any specific good commercial sources of lead.
1LRLRG If you live near water where sailboats exist,there is always the opportunity to score an old sailboat with lead in the keel. Look around for those who come up with ways to successfully manage defunct lead acid batteries. I have read conflicting stories about whether that is a good idea.
Not to jump in, I have found that Cast bullets old school lubed and sized offer a tad bit of better accuracy, Not much, however, they do have a slight edge, powder coating is a good way of getting around all the time and expensive equipment needed to make bullets. they do provide accuracy.
Interesting observation on the accuracy difference between the two methods. I can understand people getting into powder coating if they are starting from scratch, but of course I already have lube-sizers, dies, etc so it's not as attractive to me. If I shot on an indoor range I would definitely do it for the reduction of smoke.
314299 Shooting Channel wow I did some 44-40 bullets and I tell you what it looked like I put 1000 rounds down that old Winchester. I now powder coat them it helps a little. Never would have thought of doing a low velocity 308 lead round pretty cool thank you for the video
Older barrels can be a bit rough and that roughness can catch a lot of crap, especially when shooting lead, I have seen it happen a lot when shooting lead in surplus rifles. They can still shoot decent but are a lot worse to clean than a newer, smoother barrel. This 5R barrel cleans easier than any other I have had, with either cast or jacketed bullets.
My personal experience is that cast lead does just fine at full jacketed velocities, so long as the alloy is matched to the chamber pressure, and the coating is up to the velocity. 45/45/10 is good for up to about 2700 FPS ish, depending. powder coat is good for up until the velocity at which rotational inertia explodes the bullet. Lee really was right on the money with his chapter about alloy being keyed to pressure vs speed.
Some great shooting and the consistency in velocity was nothing to be displeased about either!
Thanks Rob. This rifle has always been accurate. It was bought new my me and has fired about 5000 jacketed bullets and still shoots great. Ideally I would like to work up a cast load useful out to 300 yards or so, to keep from getting too poor from shooting jacketed bullets.
Nice shooting was saying shoot now when the fly went across the muzzle. Lol
Had I hit him it might have opened up my group!
314299 Shooting Channel lol
I know that you do not need to be told, but BEAUTIFUL handloads. That's half the fun, I know. The other half is the groups.
I was wishing that I had taken the time to weight sort the bullets, might have eliminated the "flyers" in the groups, but still I was pleased with how they shot.
RIP fly @2:37 RIP m8.
Now we know what causes "flyers" in groups....
LOL
pssss pssssss ppssssss......................................
Think he barely made it away. Close though.
The lube must've smelled too good to resist. It "lead" to its demise.
I have a Ross model 1905 in 303 British with about a 28” barrel. I might start casting for that too.
That should be a decent cast bullet gun if the original chamber was not messed with. A lot of 1905's went to the USA and had their chambers hogged out so that they would accept poorly made ammo.
@@314299 my chamber seems to be decent. Brass that comes out resizes super easy. I’ve not casted for it yet. I’ve mostly handloaded hornaday 174 grain interlock for it.
@@314299 I’ve been considering a Ross rifle in 280 Ross as well. Where do I get to 280 Ross brass? Also not a lot of reloading data for it is there?
@@jw-sigp2258 Here are a couple places that list 280 brass for sale:
www.grafs.com/catalog/category/categoryId/4783
www.qual-cart.com/284%20cal.htm
I don't think I would clean that barrel if I planned on shooting lead in it again. In general I find that 5 to 10 fouling shots in a clean bore are required to get good groups back after a cleaning.
I agree completly. I once spent an entire summer shooting a 30/06 with cast bullets, never doing any more than occasionally pushing a dry patch down the bore. However this rifle is used for both jacketed and cast, but mostly jacketed, so it was cleaned after use.
Your not supposed to use harsh solvents to get lead or copper out of a barrel and cleaning copper out of a barrel is the worst thing you could do to your barrel and dumb as well.
@@joshlower1Where the heck did you hear that "cleaning copper out of a barrel is the worst thing you could do to your barrel"? Copper fouled barrels end up shooting like crap. Leaded barrels shoot like crap.
I really wanted to see that fly stay on the crown for the shot
Good thing it took off or it might have caused a flyer in the grouping....
I was waiting for the fly to step right in the muzzle the moment of the shot
I'm glad it did not get in the way as it might have effected the accuracy, it could have lead to a "flyer" in the group......
I enjoy shooting cast out of my well used Model Seven .308. Gas checked and sized to .311 and tumble lubed.
These RCBS molds dont cast bullets that big, but my Lyman molds do generally drop .311"bullets.
@@314299 Mold was from Accurate Molds and I asked for a chubby one.
Appears to be one fine concoction, with the help of some talent behind the trigger.
It's an easy rifle to shoot, especially with the mild recoil of these loads.
I hear you there. My 700 in 22-250 even makes me look pretty good on occasion.
I've had good luck with 700's for accuracy, every one I have had has shot well.
Thanks for sharing. I love cast bullets in rifles. Any mold recommendations for 8x57? I’m already casting for 45-70,35 Remington, 30-30 and 30-06.
I can recommend the Lyman 323470 for 8x57mm , it produces a a 165 grain round nose gas check bullet that has been a good performer for me in my rifles.
@@314299 thanks
Pretty good reload for cast bullets. 😁👍
Yeah, not too bad shooting for non-weight segregated. This is mostly a 100 yard load at this lowish speed.
Great accuracy! !
Thanks.
Great way for practice
Yes they are good for practice. Since they have lower velocity they make any error in follow thru obvious.
My only question is what B.H.N were those bullets ?? Great job on this video
Being of water quenched wheel weight metal I would estimate at 22 BHN, the bullets are are quite hard.
Nice. Out of interest, which loading manual did YOU confirm this load with? :)
Lyman cast bullet handbook. They have data for a similar Lyman bullet of the same weight, so of course there is some variation but close enough for my purposes.
@@314299 - I'm just getting ready to do the same. Using 160 SP cast for my 300 win mag.
You gave that fly a bad hair day, LOL. Not bad for grab and load. Sorting by weight should close those sizes.
These were loaded before I bought a digital scale/powder dispenser, with that unit I find it far more convenient to sort bullets and routinely do so with the rifle cast bullets I have been loading. If nothing else it eliminates the abnormally light and heavy projectiles.
Scales really help when shooting distances or even hunting when using cheap molds.
This is true.
The plastic is no doubt acceptable and more stable than wood. Other than that,the scope,the barrel etc,that is one fine looking rifle. How long have you owned it ? I am more than a little jealous you have both it and a place you can comfortably show some of its long distance legs. And whatever weight of decent lead you possess. Good shooting on a nice day.
This is a rifle I have owned for about five years or so shot it a lot, put close to five thousand rounds thru it the first couple years. The rifle has an HS Precision fiberglass stock with an aluminum bedding block, an excellent stock , much better than some of the cheap injection molded ones.
You've managed to get me interested in casting again, since I have this mold. Have you compared groups with this boolit to groups with the Lee 312-185?
To me the two bullets are for different uses. The RCBS 30-180 being useful for 308, 30/06 and other true .308" dimension rifles while the Lee 312-185 is for the "big" 30's like 7.62x54, 7.65, and some 303's that have .310 to .313" barrels. As a result it is difficult to compare the performance of the two designs as most of the guns I use the RCBS bullet in are much newer and more accurate to start with than most of the old guns I would use the Lee bullet in.
Can you tell me what bullet lube you are using and how well you like it in rifle velocity loads? I am currently using White Label lube products carnauba red and seem to have good luck. Always like to know what others are using however. Great shooting and love the 5R barrel!
The bullet lube used is a "home brew" consisting mostly of white lithium grease and unrefined bees wax with some old Lyman graphite bullet lube added. The graphite is what gives it the dark grey color.
If only the fly went inside the berrel 💥💥💥🤣
It would have experienced a sudden acceleration....
so i had a weird idea of wanting to cast my own 308 boolits im glad someone is already doing this xD some questions if i may, gas check or no gas check? also if i just did normal reload and used a cast round instead of HPBT or some such would that tear the lead projectile apart is that why people are keeping lower velocities?
Loading for .308 you will want to use a gas check.
You need to use special load data with cast lead bullets, especially in rifle calibers. Using data intended for jacketed bullets will give unsatisfactory results. Jacketed bullet load data is generally for quite high velocity, much higher velocity than cast bullets will tolerate in the .308 round. Too much velocity will usually result in "leading" where the lead from the bullets is left stuck in the bore and this of course leads to poor accuracy. Decent accuracy is much easier to obtain in the 1500 to 1800 fps range, and some loads can be accurate as fast as 2000 to 2100 fps, over that takes work to get right. I suggest you purchase and read the "Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook", you can learn a lot of the details and at the same time get tested load data.
@@314299 aye ive added that to my shopping list, one of the accurate moulds i spied in my quest for data appeared flat base no gas check so that threw me off a little bit and thus is assume no gas check loads are probably subsonic?
@@314299 awesome i have picked that up, have you ever tried a paper patch in 308 or is that just alot of effort when u can cast and add a gas check and size at the same time? also like this may sound silly but can that level of accuracy be repeated out for afew hundred meters i has the thought mainly as i was getting into black powder and because ammo here in aus is just hard to come by and other problems in the world etc so i figured casting and making my own cheap might help but people seem to say with 308 and the like out to 500 is impossible yet i know my muzzle loading match rifle with a grease groove slug can punch out to 1000 yards granted its like a 500 gr round but still
I'd say you found a nice cast load the rifle likes .
A nice mild load for sure. Next up will be the same bullet but pushed to about the 2000 fps mark.
hi, I reload with german bullets H&N Sports lead with 120microns copper washing and PVD surface treatment, powder is Vithavuori N110 about one third in weight compared to full load with FMJs... in a Swedish Carl Gustav Match 63 Biathlon rifle, the elevation is at 400m shooting at 100m range; how many clicks to compensate the drop on yr scope ? Good question, ha ? 😃
That is a good question but I didn't take note of how many "clicks" I had to use at the time .
Which bullet did which velocity ?.
There is only one bullet being tested in the video and the mold number is part of the video name.
I have the same scope on my 700 .308. Are you using a 20 MOA base? which one?
The rifle has Leupold steel STD bases, 0 MOA. I have not found it necessary to have a canted MOA base for the distances I shoot at.
What´s the powder charge?
0:27
No fly was harmed in the making of this video. 2:37 😁
It might have a headache from the muzzle blast....
Have you tried any powder coated bullets yet in that?
No I have not.
I would say that your rest for the rifle is jumping around under recoil, I would wager that those groups would tighten up if you had a soldier rest for the rifle. I'm not nick picking, those were fine shooting bullets and worthy of taking medium game humanly such as Coyote. I have a Remington 700, it's an SSD model, it suffers build quality and precision components in its make up.I'm not pleased with the product. I hope that Remington steps up and starts making rifles like they used to. Dave.
Good point. The rifle is indeed moving around under recoil, however it is heavy enough and the recoil of these rounds light enough that I decided to not hold the front but let move on it's own, hoping that I could repeat the same "jump" with each shot. How a rifle is rested/held can have a big effect on group size and point of impact, especially with a light rifle with a lot of recoil.
It's too bad about your 700 being unsatisfactory. I'm pleased with the 700 5R but they are a more expensive option than many of the other 700 models.
How are you getting that brass so clean
ruclips.net/video/liKFonmWUAE/видео.html
You've got me hooked! I do have a question why is your fps so slow?
A couple of reasons for the modest velocity. First of all I see no need for higher speeds for shooting paper targets at short range, and second small charges of powder make for more economical shooting. For longer range or hunting with cast the velocity certainly can be increased.
wish someone would make cast for my 223 bolt,,, now that was funny,,,, at 2:38 that poor fly had his butt inside the barrel when you fired,,,, wonder if he felt it,,LOL
It's pretty much a matter of casting them yourself as there are not a lot of commercial suppliers for cast rifle bullets. As for the fly I think he was trying to spoil my group by getting in the way of the bullet.
@@314299 lol... it was funny to see it..for some reason he just disappeared when the bullet went up his butt.
Do you suggest IMR 4064 powder for reloading cast bullets ?
It's worth a try but only if you are loading for the upper limits of what you can do with cast bullets in rifles. A better all round powder is 2400,but for lower velocities.
Sounds like” lee loader” fan!😂
Accurate 5744 is like Unique for rifle cartridges. Very versatile.
Mr miyagi instead of using chopsticks he shot a fly 👀
Ironically when I was in the military one of the other guys could not pronounce my last name and so he took to calling me "Miyagi" - that was back in the 1980's.
I tried casting years ago. Could never get my bullets to fill out to the advertised diameter of my moulds.
Gotta run em though a sizer weather it’s a lube sizer or just a lee push through sizer die
Need to run your mold hotter and add more tin to your alloy to get bigger diameter.
Also in your opinion should someone spend the extra cash for the rcbs molds?
The RCBS molds I have used have been excellent and are a lifetime purchase if properly cared for, so yes I do think they are worth the cost especially if they make a bullet useful for multiple calibers.
Awesome i have plenty of surplus 30 cals to use haha and im lucky enough to live only 15 min away
The RCBS factory would be an interesting place to visit.
Have you taken game with theses rounds?
No I have not.
did you use a over powder filler ?
No over powder wad or filler was used.
Why only 14 grs of powder?
The powder used is a very fast burning shotgun/pistol powder and only small charges are safe to use before pressures get excessive.
Why do you size a 308 win to .311?
Cast bullets tend to get deformed if sized too much in sizing die so these were run thru a .311" just to crimp the gas check on them and to apply the lube. The best "sizing die" is the barrel. Of course there are limits as to how big a bullet one can load, but if a cast bullet loaded case chambers freely it's not too big.
@@314299 OK good to know I've been loading 200 grain lee 308 cast gas check bullets in 300blk but been using the 308 sizer after powder coating. I'll have to look into the 309 311 sizer dies
You are slightly turning your rifle before you shoot. So you are out of plumb.
The bench is not level.
Are there any reliable lead sources in Canada, would love to get back into casting but having issues finding smaller amounts as in couple hundred pounds of lead. Only source in my area wants you to get ton.
I rely on the usual scrounging around at scrap yards and tire shops. Recently got lucky and bought out a buddy who was into making lead shot. Having said that I'm not aware of any specific good commercial sources of lead.
Damn, guess I'll just have to search harder, tire shops out here have started to switch away from lead to steel and other metals.
1LRLRG If you live near water where sailboats exist,there is always the opportunity to score an old sailboat with lead in the keel. Look around for those who come up with ways to successfully manage defunct lead acid batteries. I have read conflicting stories about whether that is a good idea.
Roofers plumbers and scrap yards....
Thanks for the idea's, will check out your suggestions. Again thanks
Have you thought about powder coating?
I might give it a try some day, but I'm in no hurry as I'm pleased with the way conventionally lubed bullets work.
Not to jump in, I have found that Cast bullets old school lubed and sized offer a tad bit of better accuracy, Not much, however, they do have a slight edge, powder coating is a good way of getting around all the time and expensive equipment needed to make bullets. they do provide accuracy.
Interesting observation on the accuracy difference between the two methods. I can understand people getting into powder coating if they are starting from scratch, but of course I already have lube-sizers, dies, etc so it's not as attractive to me. If I shot on an indoor range I would definitely do it for the reduction of smoke.
Love to see how nasty that barrel is after shooting all that lead
Iit was not nasty at all, no leading just some bullet lube and carbon which cleaned out with just some patches and solvent.
314299 Shooting Channel wow I did some 44-40 bullets and I tell you what it looked like I put 1000 rounds down that old Winchester. I now powder coat them it helps a little. Never would have thought of doing a low velocity 308 lead round pretty cool thank you for the video
Older barrels can be a bit rough and that roughness can catch a lot of crap, especially when shooting lead, I have seen it happen a lot when shooting lead in surplus rifles. They can still shoot decent but are a lot worse to clean than a newer, smoother barrel. This 5R barrel cleans easier than any other I have had, with either cast or jacketed bullets.
314299 Shooting Channel that does make sense darn thing was made in 1899
You don't have a tag for this trophy!
That's a dialed on load
Not a bad one for sure. Be nicer if it had a bit more velocity....
My personal experience is that cast lead does just fine at full jacketed velocities, so long as the alloy is matched to the chamber pressure, and the coating is up to the velocity. 45/45/10 is good for up to about 2700 FPS ish, depending. powder coat is good for up until the velocity at which rotational inertia explodes the bullet. Lee really was right on the money with his chapter about alloy being keyed to pressure vs speed.
One
سافاش عيسى nice