I know that works for you and I've done it but, I also cast a Lee tumble lube design, the TL358-158-SWC but I cast them from pure lead and powder coat them, mostly clean scrap and I also push them thru a Lee .358" sizer after coating. The big advantage to powder coating is that I do a couple hundred at a time in a toaster oven, takes 15 minutes and I shoot them thru my 20" Rossi 357 magnum rifle at over 1700fps with no leading. Clean up is a pass down the bore with a brass brush and a couple passes with some mineral spirits soaked patches. No Lead. I also cast the 358-125-RF and powder coat them. I then size to either .358" for 38/357 or .356" for 9mm with the Lee sizer. No matter what powder I use or how hard I push them I get no leading, none and they are very accurate, easy to do and you can use any color you want. My favorite is Candy Red, with the silver bullet under the translucent red it they look like red chrome. Nice with a nickel case.
Ken, I am running low on Alox and have considered powder coating for a few years now... ....this may be the most timely comment a video has ever gotten. Might be shopping for a toaster oven this weekend.
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 might be late, but i second powder coating, ive done this method and powder coating, they both work and to be honest its whichever you prefer. For the toaster ovens, they are always like a dime a dozen at thrift stores. a lot of times they come with trays too that make it easy to pull em in and out. I got a little tupperware i just put some powder in and shake em up, then stand em up when baking.
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 You should also look into the Hi-Tek coating product too, it's similar to powdercoat but is applied wet (20 grams of the dry powder is dissolved into 100 milliliters of Acetone or MEK) and for me it is a much easier and less messy procedure than powdercoating. It is also extremely efficient, it makes a much thinner layer on the bullet than PC while providing the same benefits, I got a 15 ounce can of the powder version ($75) and it will coat about 120,000 bullets with two coats each (you need 2-3 coats for good results), a little goes a _looooong_ way. I was able to process 4500 9mm bullets (two coats) in about 4 hours using a $100 Walmart convection toaster oven, once you get your groove established it is super easy and laid back work. All you do is measure out 1ml of the dissolved Hi-Tek and Acetone solution per pound of bullets, put them in a bucket or coffee can (it's identical to the liquid ALOX application method), pour in your 1ml/lb of liquid, then shake them together for 30 seconds with the lid on, then another 10-15 seconds with the lid off, stopping when you feel/hear the bullets starting to get sticky, then immediately pour them out onto your toaster tray to dry for 15 minutes or so. After that it's as simple as popping them in the oven for 10 minutes at 400°F, super easy. I use four trays to keep the workflow going, one tray goes on top of the warm oven to speed up drying, one tray to pour in freshly coated bullets, one tray to stick in front of a fan after removal from the oven, and the fourth which is used in the oven. I usually coat the whole batch with a single coat, then once they're all coated I start the process over. You can coat a lot of bullets at once too, as many as you can pack on your tray (they can be jumbled up and just tossed on in a big heap, they don't need to be stood on end), and the other great thing is, unlike powdercoating, the bullets barely stick together after removing them from the oven, even if you load your trays up to max capacity, just tap the tray on a hard surface a couple times and they all break loose. I can't say enough good things about Hi-Tek, even Jerry Miculek uses it for his reloads.
I have been casting a bullets since the mid-seventies. I always use an RCBS Will it size and lube press, And in all that time I've never used a heater for any kind of lube.
I started off with harbor freight powder coating and a second hand toaster oven from the flea market. 250 degrees for 15 minutes. I like to coat mine 2x. Less mess and 100% no leading even if you push over 1000fps.
According Lee, you should relube after you resize. Is Talc not an abrasive? I use a gallon “ baggie” with great succcess. I push wheel weight cast bullets up to 2100 fps with no barrel leading. Alox works!
I got the idea from someone 20 years ago and have had no issues (with some guns having quite a lot of these rounds through them). I feel that talc is not abrasive, but similar to graphite powder (but not as slick) if that makes sense. I don't relube, but I also don't push those velocities. Under 1,000 fps for me, and it works great. If I was trying to go faster I would definitely do things differently.
No talc on a mohs hardness scale is a 1. It's fine and won't damage anything, if anything you probably could do with out the Lee's lube or definitely use a lot less. Talc is usually used as a dry lube.
Nobody dies this anymore powder coat is the way to go , no sticky mess, no messy dies no tacky semi dry bullets try powder coat my friend its like day and night.
The lee bullet sizer does not cut off lead it compresses the lead bullet to a perfect size and shape! After aloxing size your bullets then alox them again if you like ! Also don’t thin your alox with anything just leave the container in hot water for a few minutes and heat your bullets slightly with a hair dryer to keep the integrity of the alox intact! 🇬🇧🏴
In general I agree with you. However, with very oversized bullets it will actually shave off a ring of lead. I have resized 0.458 bullets down to 0.452 and in that case it does cut lead off.
Just a heads up ! Try quenching the bullets to harden them first . I've used coconut oil and this seems to harden as well as lubricating thus for less work involved also the Lee micro groove molds will not permit any sort of crimping or reliability will suffer .the bullet will be forced into the chamber too far and will not have reliable ignition !🤔😏😁
@joshawageorge2122 I am able to crimp these and have no reliability or ignition problems. Not sure what you're talking about. I do quench so of my bullets but never tried quenching and lubing in one step.
@@BCM16AR no different or worse than commercial lead bullets with a grease groove. Of course at some point I will switch to powder coating just to make the process cleaner and handling less messy.
Not near as knowledgeable as he thinks he is. He provides lots of misinformation here. If your only concern is sticky fingers why not wear surgical gloves. I used them in every step of the reloading process including packaging, Is and of course Heavy leather gloves for actual casting the bullets. But I use the surgical gloves to keep the oils and salt from my hands From contaminating, Each of my components, My Dies and equipment.
I know that works for you and I've done it but, I also cast a Lee tumble lube design, the TL358-158-SWC but I cast them from pure lead and powder coat them, mostly clean scrap and I also push them thru a Lee .358" sizer after coating. The big advantage to powder coating is that I do a couple hundred at a time in a toaster oven, takes 15 minutes and I shoot them thru my 20" Rossi 357 magnum rifle at over 1700fps with no leading. Clean up is a pass down the bore with a brass brush and a couple passes with some mineral spirits soaked patches. No Lead. I also cast the 358-125-RF and powder coat them. I then size to either .358" for 38/357 or .356" for 9mm with the Lee sizer. No matter what powder I use or how hard I push them I get no leading, none and they are very accurate, easy to do and you can use any color you want. My favorite is Candy Red, with the silver bullet under the translucent red it they look like red chrome. Nice with a nickel case.
Ken,
I am running low on Alox and have considered powder coating for a few years now... ....this may be the most timely comment a video has ever gotten. Might be shopping for a toaster oven this weekend.
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 might be late, but i second powder coating, ive done this method and powder coating, they both work and to be honest its whichever you prefer.
For the toaster ovens, they are always like a dime a dozen at thrift stores. a lot of times they come with trays too that make it easy to pull em in and out. I got a little tupperware i just put some powder in and shake em up, then stand em up when baking.
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 You should also look into the Hi-Tek coating product too, it's similar to powdercoat but is applied wet (20 grams of the dry powder is dissolved into 100 milliliters of Acetone or MEK) and for me it is a much easier and less messy procedure than powdercoating.
It is also extremely efficient, it makes a much thinner layer on the bullet than PC while providing the same benefits, I got a 15 ounce can of the powder version ($75) and it will coat about 120,000 bullets with two coats each (you need 2-3 coats for good results), a little goes a _looooong_ way. I was able to process 4500 9mm bullets (two coats) in about 4 hours using a $100 Walmart convection toaster oven, once you get your groove established it is super easy and laid back work.
All you do is measure out 1ml of the dissolved Hi-Tek and Acetone solution per pound of bullets, put them in a bucket or coffee can (it's identical to the liquid ALOX application method), pour in your 1ml/lb of liquid, then shake them together for 30 seconds with the lid on, then another 10-15 seconds with the lid off, stopping when you feel/hear the bullets starting to get sticky, then immediately pour them out onto your toaster tray to dry for 15 minutes or so.
After that it's as simple as popping them in the oven for 10 minutes at 400°F, super easy. I use four trays to keep the workflow going, one tray goes on top of the warm oven to speed up drying, one tray to pour in freshly coated bullets, one tray to stick in front of a fan after removal from the oven, and the fourth which is used in the oven. I usually coat the whole batch with a single coat, then once they're all coated I start the process over.
You can coat a lot of bullets at once too, as many as you can pack on your tray (they can be jumbled up and just tossed on in a big heap, they don't need to be stood on end), and the other great thing is, unlike powdercoating, the bullets barely stick together after removing them from the oven, even if you load your trays up to max capacity, just tap the tray on a hard surface a couple times and they all break loose. I can't say enough good things about Hi-Tek, even Jerry Miculek uses it for his reloads.
Do you also add gas checks?
I have been casting a bullets since the mid-seventies. I always use an RCBS Will it size and lube press, And in all that time I've never used a heater for any kind of lube.
I started off with harbor freight powder coating and a second hand toaster oven from the flea market. 250 degrees for 15 minutes. I like to coat mine 2x. Less mess and 100% no leading even if you push over 1000fps.
I've heard of this done many times before, gonna try this next with the harbor freight powder coat.
Fantastic informational video. God Bless America 🇺🇸
I shoot at a indoor range and the Alox doesn't cut it for me. To much smoke. Powder coat is my preference.
I have five Lee push-through sizers. They do work very quickly, and always seat gas checks evenly and squarely.
Thanks for the upload!
That's exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you for your input.
If you powder coat do you have to worry about leading?
According Lee, you should relube after you resize. Is Talc not an abrasive? I use a gallon “ baggie” with great succcess.
I push wheel weight cast bullets up to 2100 fps with no barrel leading. Alox works!
I got the idea from someone 20 years ago and have had no issues (with some guns having quite a lot of these rounds through them). I feel that talc is not abrasive, but similar to graphite powder (but not as slick) if that makes sense.
I don't relube, but I also don't push those velocities.
Under 1,000 fps for me, and it works great. If I was trying to go faster I would definitely do things differently.
No talc on a mohs hardness scale is a 1. It's fine and won't damage anything, if anything you probably could do with out the Lee's lube or definitely use a lot less. Talc is usually used as a dry lube.
Great video and great information… bullets look great
Nobody dies this anymore powder coat is the way to go , no sticky mess, no messy dies no tacky semi dry bullets try powder coat my friend its like day and night.
I will, but I want to use all of my current supplies first.
I do both; all depends on bullet style and application.
The lee bullet sizer does not cut off lead it compresses the lead bullet to a perfect size and shape! After aloxing size your bullets then alox them again if you like ! Also don’t thin your alox with anything just leave the container in hot water for a few minutes and heat your bullets slightly with a hair dryer to keep the integrity of the alox intact! 🇬🇧🏴
In general I agree with you. However, with very oversized bullets it will actually shave off a ring of lead. I have resized 0.458 bullets down to 0.452 and in that case it does cut lead off.
Just a heads up ! Try quenching the bullets to harden them first . I've used coconut oil and this seems to harden as well as lubricating thus for less work involved also the Lee micro groove molds will not permit any sort of crimping or reliability will suffer .the bullet will be forced into the chamber too far and will not have reliable ignition !🤔😏😁
@joshawageorge2122 I am able to crimp these and have no reliability or ignition problems. Not sure what you're talking about. I do quench so of my bullets but never tried quenching and lubing in one step.
Thank you for this information!
Just powder coat your bullets, much cleaner!
I will eventually go that route.
bruh you got a dollars worth of primers on the bench lol. awesome video btw
Man what do your barrels look like?
They're just fine, why? Nothing abrasive or damaging. Everything from these bullets is softer than the copper jacket on commercial ammo.
I was talking about fouling
@@BCM16AR no different or worse than commercial lead bullets with a grease groove. Of course at some point I will switch to powder coating just to make the process cleaner and handling less messy.
I stopped using the liquid wax because I got tired of tearing apart my seating die just to clean it then reset it again.
I have used brake cleaner with great success, but I agree it is a definite disadvantage.
Good bro 😀
see Fortune Cookie 45 LC for the 45/45/10 tumble lube method
Not near as knowledgeable as he thinks he is. He provides lots of misinformation here. If your only concern is sticky fingers why not wear surgical gloves. I used them in every step of the reloading process including packaging, Is and of course Heavy leather gloves for actual casting the bullets. But I use the surgical gloves to keep the oils and salt from my hands From contaminating, Each of my components, My Dies and equipment.
worst way to coat bullets
Well, what is the best way? Share please.
@@normanmcneal3605Powdercoat