I was stranded 85 miles from my house yesterday triple AAA left me hanging for 9 hours I’m a premier member I watched this video and Uber to auto zone 2 times bought parts and tools and fixed it thank you so much for saving my ass
I'm so glad the video was helpful and saved your rear. LOl I can't think of a better use for one of my videos, that's why I make these videos! I make them to save people time and money, with a list of tools and parts and the approximate cost of the part, and any special tools that may be needed too. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Well, I must admit you are detailed & cover alot of the stuff for a person who has never used tools before. I watched it all anyway as my tensioner is going out.
Thank you Mark. I try to make my videos more towards the novice and as a refresher for the experienced mechanic. I make them that way because my dad was a mechanic and I learned a lot from him. After watching RUclips videos I found most of them left a lot of things out for the novice, and some were actually dangerous for the novice to attempt. So that's why I started making videos for the novice. Thanks for the nice comment. Keith Noneya
You so much for this video.. I am a 50 yr old female and never changed a belt. This video was spot on and you explaining in detail helped this girl out!!! Thanks so much.😊
Oh thank you for the kind reply. I try to make my videos for the novice as well as the experienced. Glad I was able to help you out. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for the instruction. It is very helpful. I have a question: Is the belt tensioner supposed to wiggle a bit after the belt is installed and properly tensioned?
No, the bolt should be tight and the only play should be belt spring action. If the pins aren't in the holes the Belt Tensioner may rock a little. See time index 15:00 In that case take the belt off, loosen the bolt and rotate the whole Tensioner it while pushing on it until the pin locks into the hole. Then tighten the bolt back up and see if it wiggles, if it doesn't them put the belt back on. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
When you replace the serpentine belt you might want to get a new radiator hose that rerouted around the belt and not through it. I just got one at Rifraf Diesel. I went with the upgraded silicone hose. Probably the last hose I'll ever need to buy. 👍
I have thought about that a few times. The only reason I don't like about that idea is when the belt shreds it takes out the hose. Which is why I think Ford changed the hose to go through the belt instead of around it. Best Prayers & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Just don't forget to leave the belt on the other pulleys if you haven't done one before. If not and you have problems drop me a comment and I'll try and help ya. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya I did it! Thanks again for the helpful video. I will definitely check out your videos again for anyother problems I run into. You're awsome
@@6mindtrix Awesome, another person who I helped save money! Just give me a like and if you want to help my channel subscribe. Every sub helps. Also you're most welcome bud. You guys are the reason I make them. oh and I do make a little change on the side, but mostly I started making them to help folks. Thanks for the nice comment and watching. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you Kevin, I appreciate that. Glad you liked the video and hope it helped you out. I've got a playlist devoted solely on this truck and more to come. If you own one of these trucks you'll probably end up fixing some of the same things I fixed, so flag it for future reference. Some of the upcoming truck videos will have rear hub bearings with brake replacement etc. Thanks for watching and again, Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Glad to help Willy. I have some more F350 PowerStroke video here; ruclips.net/p/PLVLXGvrQp0OtT4QJeMKZ764rC2A87eiXz if you need them. Feel free to email or contact me anytime willy. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
99% sure I got the same problem. Same squeal and area of noise. Changed the idler pulley (there was a little bit of play in it) and still making the same noise.Gonna change out the tensioner tonight. Thanks for the great video! Super helpful. God bless
Hey Joseph, glad to help. If you're on a budget you can just buy the Bearing PN: 6203-2RS and press the old one out and press a new one in. They cost $3-5.00 dollars on eBay or $8-15.00 in town at your local auto parts store. You can also just change the pulley and they cost $22-35.00 depending if you buy the flat or ribbed one. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Very good! I hope all went well on the project. Had to change my serpentine about two weeks ago, the best part about making videos is you can always go back and review your own work. LOL Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey Llod thanks I try to tailor them for both the newbies and experienced mechanics. Thanks again for watching and the nice comment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks RC...9. Yeah I get a little wordy trying to teach the newbies at times. Just skip through them or up the reply speed. Guess I missed not taking off both negatives, I'll have to check that out. I did discover that if I left the Positives on and pulled the negatives and laid my sweaty arm across the fender and Negative battery post I got a nice little tingle! Thanks for watching and I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Let me know if you need anything. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I have a 2001 Super Duty with 168K miles. I'm starting to wonder when some of these things are going to fail, like the water pump, etc. How many miles before it's a good idea to replace them BEFORE they fail? Since I use my diesel for towing our camper, if something fails, it won't be at a convenient time. Thanks for the video. It was very informative!
If the truck is maintained, oil changes; engine, rear, end as scheduled. Also the transfer case and transmission fluid changed every 30K, most things, other than the engine internals, start to go bad around the 250K mile range. The engine internals, long block, will go 800k-1 million miles before you need to rebuild or replace it. The exception is the HPOP, LPOP and Injectors. Those start to go out around 300-350K and will need to be changed. The trans if not over heated can go around 300-350K before you need to rebuild it. The engine, since you're towing needs to have its EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temperatures) monitored all the time. The reason for that is when towing the EGT's can get above 1,200 degrees, that is the temp the tops of the pistons start to melt. So if you don't have a EGT and TFT (Transmission Fluid Temp) monitor get one. Glow shift has a three gauge pillar set for around $350.00. The best and most useful is the CTS3 because it monitors everything and puts all of it on a display on the dashboard. However they are twice the cost, but you get what you pay for; www.ebay.com/itm/256529901922 at around $639.00 I gather by your question you’re new to 7.3L’s I can definitely point you in the right direction for keeping your truck running good and help you learn more about how to repair it. I’m on Facebook 7.3L Powerstroke Nation. If you have a FB account stop by and join the group. There are a LOT of knowledgeable folks on there. It’s not my group, but I’m known as Keith Dereck in the group here; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406/ If you message me in the group or email me I can give you a list of RUclips pages that will definitely help you keep your truck up and running great and help you fix it quickly when it breaks down. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
You're welcome Tony. Glad it helped. Don't forget to look at the SHOW MORE description. It has part numbers, cost of items as well as a list of tools etc you'll need to do the job. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I've run mine down into the teens in Northern Arizona. I think I ended up using a Gates Belt on mine. So fare I have over 10K miles on it and one winter, so far so good. PS I've run that belt up over 95 mph on the freeway on the Texas flats for short spurts. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks Wenze, you're welcome and glad you liked it. Don't forget to check my 1999 to 2004 F250 F350 Repairs playlist for other repairs. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I got 32 lbs from ford enthusiast thread from idi anyone have solid torque spec. This is aluminum plate that everything from oil cooller , low pressure oil pump, water pump, crank shaft , ac compressor. I over torques a high pressure oil pump and thankfully ruff raff had a tap and die thread kit 18 lbs on lil 10mm bolts. Easy DIY project can get expensive and time consuming fast…..steel bolt to aluminum be careful. 18 is a lil more than hand tight.
I wish I had the be all torque spec, but I looked at several forunms and it varied so I just chose added the two and divided the spec. So far after three cross country trips, from New Orleans to Williams Arizona to North Carolina back to New Orleans and then back to Williams Arizona, in freezing and hot weather it's holding just fine, so I'll say the Torque Spec works. If you do find it in a book let me know and I'll put it in the description. Hope your project went well for you Cali, used to live in Imperial Beach and Pt. Mugu, plenty of sand there in Cali. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I sure did. How to do that is at time index 4:05 and the result is at time index 4:48. Yep it was the Tensioner Pulley alright, hence the name of the video. If you're short on cash and have a small press or know how to knock bearings out or screw a bolt you have the option of buying the bearing and changing it or buying the pulleys on the Tensioner and changing just the pulley. Hope that helps answer your question and gives you some options on how to fix it. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Yes sir Re-Bubba. Yeah I was looking at that while watching the video and thinking the same thing. You did notice the belt I hope!!!!! You've been after me for two years to change it, and now that's its done all you have to say is, "You need to clean that engine bay sir!" Seems I remember a certain buddy of mine who promised me an engine bay cleaning for helping him out on more than a couple of occasions. Now if I could just remember who that BUDDY was, I could call in that mark! LOL :O) You'll have to give me a call bud. I've thinking about you guys over the last week. Been missing you and the Mrs, Sarah too! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya Lol yeah you need to get that guy over there to clean that for you man, I know for a fact he would be more than happy too. BTW my trucks ac blows so cold and has been working great better than it ever has. Tell Miss Sarah I said hi please
Hey Alex not sure if it would, you'd have to remove hose on the bottom of the tank and drain about a gallon of radiator fluid out. Normally it wouldn't be as hard as you see on the video, but by doing the videoing I had to keep my hands out of the way and find a suitable place for the camera too. It was actually a pretty straight forward job. Thanks for watching Alex, I hope you found part of it useful to you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya I dont mind draining some coolant if I dont have to strain and fight with tight space,I might even take both idlers off the tension so I have even more space.i appreciate you making the video,yeah it's a simple deal,I do all my own work on my vehicles,I always watch a video first,just in case there is something that is a pain in the ass,thanks for the video
@@alscompleteoutdoor9091 That's cool, I do about 95% of all my repairs too, I just put them up to help folks understand what it takes to fix a car. Then they can save some cash or have a little more respect for that mechanic. Best Wishes &Blessings. Keith Noneya
I was stranded 85 miles from my house yesterday triple AAA left me hanging for 9 hours I’m a premier member I watched this video and Uber to auto zone 2 times bought parts and tools and fixed it thank you so much for saving my ass
I'm so glad the video was helpful and saved your rear. LOl I can't think of a better use for one of my videos, that's why I make these videos! I make them to save people time and money, with a list of tools and parts and the approximate cost of the part, and any special tools that may be needed too. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
That's the spirit
Well, I must admit you are detailed & cover alot of the stuff for a person who has never used tools before. I watched it all anyway as my tensioner is going out.
Thank you Mark. I try to make my videos more towards the novice and as a refresher for the experienced mechanic. I make them that way because my dad was a mechanic and I learned a lot from him. After watching RUclips videos I found most of them left a lot of things out for the novice, and some were actually dangerous for the novice to attempt. So that's why I started making videos for the novice. Thanks for the nice comment. Keith Noneya
You so much for this video.. I am a 50 yr old female and never changed a belt. This video was spot on and you explaining in detail helped this girl out!!! Thanks so much.😊
Oh thank you for the kind reply. I try to make my videos for the novice as well as the experienced. Glad I was able to help you out. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for the instruction. It is very helpful. I have a question:
Is the belt tensioner supposed to wiggle a bit after the belt is installed and properly tensioned?
No, the bolt should be tight and the only play should be belt spring action. If the pins aren't in the holes the Belt Tensioner may rock a little. See time index 15:00 In that case take the belt off, loosen the bolt and rotate the whole Tensioner it while pushing on it until the pin locks into the hole. Then tighten the bolt back up and see if it wiggles, if it doesn't them put the belt back on. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
When you replace the serpentine belt you might want to get a new radiator hose that rerouted around the belt and not through it. I just got one at Rifraf Diesel. I went with the upgraded silicone hose. Probably the last hose I'll ever need to buy. 👍
I have thought about that a few times. The only reason I don't like about that idea is when the belt shreds it takes out the hose. Which is why I think Ford changed the hose to go through the belt instead of around it. Best Prayers & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for taking your time to make this video I'm going to swap out my belt tensioner now. Wish me luck
Just don't forget to leave the belt on the other pulleys if you haven't done one before. If not and you have problems drop me a comment and I'll try and help ya. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya I did it! Thanks again for the helpful video. I will definitely check out your videos again for anyother problems I run into. You're awsome
@@6mindtrix Awesome, another person who I helped save money! Just give me a like and if you want to help my channel subscribe. Every sub helps. Also you're most welcome bud. You guys are the reason I make them. oh and I do make a little change on the side, but mostly I started making them to help folks. Thanks for the nice comment and watching. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks Keith, you have a humble heart. You are blessed of God
Thank you Kevin, I appreciate that. Glad you liked the video and hope it helped you out. I've got a playlist devoted solely on this truck and more to come. If you own one of these trucks you'll probably end up fixing some of the same things I fixed, so flag it for future reference. Some of the upcoming truck videos will have rear hub bearings with brake replacement etc. Thanks for watching and again, Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for being so detailed i will be replacing mine today. I appreciate ya
You're welcome Roberto, hope the job goes well for you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you so much for make this video I’m from Guatemala
Glad to help Willy. I have some more F350 PowerStroke video here; ruclips.net/p/PLVLXGvrQp0OtT4QJeMKZ764rC2A87eiXz if you need them. Feel free to email or contact me anytime willy. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
99% sure I got the same problem. Same squeal and area of noise. Changed the idler pulley (there was a little bit of play in it) and still making the same noise.Gonna change out the tensioner tonight. Thanks for the great video! Super helpful. God bless
Hey Joseph, glad to help. If you're on a budget you can just buy the Bearing PN: 6203-2RS and press the old one out and press a new one in. They cost $3-5.00 dollars on eBay or $8-15.00 in town at your local auto parts store. You can also just change the pulley and they cost $22-35.00 depending if you buy the flat or ribbed one. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Exactly how I did it last week. Very good.
Very good! I hope all went well on the project. Had to change my serpentine about two weeks ago, the best part about making videos is you can always go back and review your own work. LOL Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Great video very detailed for newbie's
Hey Llod thanks I try to tailor them for both the newbies and experienced mechanics. Thanks again for watching and the nice comment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Excellent video 👏🏻. Little “wordy”, but good tips ! Thank you ! I think I would remove both neg batt cables though.
Thanks RC...9. Yeah I get a little wordy trying to teach the newbies at times. Just skip through them or up the reply speed. Guess I missed not taking off both negatives, I'll have to check that out. I did discover that if I left the Positives on and pulled the negatives and laid my sweaty arm across the fender and Negative battery post I got a nice little tingle! Thanks for watching and I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Let me know if you need anything. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I have a 2001 Super Duty with 168K miles. I'm starting to wonder when some of these things are going to fail, like the water pump, etc. How many miles before it's a good idea to replace them BEFORE they fail? Since I use my diesel for towing our camper, if something fails, it won't be at a convenient time. Thanks for the video. It was very informative!
If the truck is maintained, oil changes; engine, rear, end as scheduled. Also the transfer case and transmission fluid changed every 30K, most things, other than the engine internals, start to go bad around the 250K mile range. The engine internals, long block, will go 800k-1 million miles before you need to rebuild or replace it. The exception is the HPOP, LPOP and Injectors. Those start to go out around 300-350K and will need to be changed. The trans if not over heated can go around 300-350K before you need to rebuild it. The engine, since you're towing needs to have its EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temperatures) monitored all the time. The reason for that is when towing the EGT's can get above 1,200 degrees, that is the temp the tops of the pistons start to melt. So if you don't have a EGT and TFT (Transmission Fluid Temp) monitor get one. Glow shift has a three gauge pillar set for around $350.00. The best and most useful is the CTS3 because it monitors everything and puts all of it on a display on the dashboard. However they are twice the cost, but you get what you pay for; www.ebay.com/itm/256529901922 at around $639.00 I gather by your question you’re new to 7.3L’s I can definitely point you in the right direction for keeping your truck running good and help you learn more about how to repair it. I’m on Facebook 7.3L Powerstroke Nation. If you have a FB account stop by and join the group. There are a LOT of knowledgeable folks on there. It’s not my group, but I’m known as Keith Dereck in the group here; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406/ If you message me in the group or email me I can give you a list of RUclips pages that will definitely help you keep your truck up and running great and help you fix it quickly when it breaks down. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you so much for this video. It's was very helpful.
You're welcome Tony. Glad it helped. Don't forget to look at the SHOW MORE description. It has part numbers, cost of items as well as a list of tools etc you'll need to do the job. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
thank you, tips were spot on
You're welcome, glad it was useful for you. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Excellent video,when my 99 f-250 super duty 7.3 is idling the belt tensioner is moving back and forth is that normal
i appreciate your recommendation for electrolytes on a hot day. and the recommendation for the tire stool thing. and the how to video.
Glad you liked the recommendations. Hope the video helped you out. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
There is alot of confusion on the Cold Weather package belt? Not sure what one my 7.3 takes?
I've run mine down into the teens in Northern Arizona. I think I ended up using a Gates Belt on mine. So fare I have over 10K miles on it and one winter, so far so good. PS I've run that belt up over 95 mph on the freeway on the Texas flats for short spurts. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Is the new tensioner supposed to be moving like that? Mine is doing that and I'm not sure if it's correct. thanks
Very well done. Thank you.
Thanks Wenze, you're welcome and glad you liked it. Don't forget to check my 1999 to 2004 F250 F350 Repairs playlist for other repairs.
Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I got 32 lbs from ford enthusiast thread from idi anyone have solid torque spec. This is aluminum plate that everything from oil cooller , low pressure oil pump, water pump, crank shaft , ac compressor. I over torques a high pressure oil pump and thankfully ruff raff had a tap and die thread kit 18 lbs on lil 10mm bolts. Easy DIY project can get expensive and time consuming fast…..steel bolt to aluminum be careful. 18 is a lil more than hand tight.
I wish I had the be all torque spec, but I looked at several forunms and it varied so I just chose added the two and divided the spec. So far after three cross country trips, from New Orleans to Williams Arizona to North Carolina back to New Orleans and then back to Williams Arizona, in freezing and hot weather it's holding just fine, so I'll say the Torque Spec works. If you do find it in a book let me know and I'll put it in the description. Hope your project went well for you Cali, used to live in Imperial Beach and Pt. Mugu, plenty of sand there in Cali. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Talk English calisand9055. Hard to make sense of what you are saying
Straight from ford manual: 1 bolt 7.3 is 35-47 ft. lbs. / 2 bolt 6.0 is 18 ft.lbs./ 3 bolt 5.4 gas is 18 ft. lbs.
Great job and thanks for sharing
Anytime bud.
I just received the parts from Ford. Tensioner and pulley , plus belt. Doing job soon.
Hope all goes well. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
You said you were going help us figure which one was squealing, so how did you figure it was the tensioner pulleys?
I sure did. How to do that is at time index 4:05 and the result is at time index 4:48. Yep it was the Tensioner Pulley alright, hence the name of the video. If you're short on cash and have a small press or know how to knock bearings out or screw a bolt you have the option of buying the bearing and changing it or buying the pulleys on the Tensioner and changing just the pulley. Hope that helps answer your question and gives you some options on how to fix it. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
What’s the size of the tensioner bolt
13mm deep, or 13 mm with a 3" extension.
what year is your truck?
It's a 2001 F350 Lariat Crew Cab 4wd. Hope that helps. Let me know of you need anything else. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I changed the whole tensioner . You need to clean that engine bay sir.
Yes sir Re-Bubba. Yeah I was looking at that while watching the video and thinking the same thing. You did notice the belt I hope!!!!! You've been after me for two years to change it, and now that's its done all you have to say is, "You need to clean that engine bay sir!" Seems I remember a certain buddy of mine who promised me an engine bay cleaning for helping him out on more than a couple of occasions. Now if I could just remember who that BUDDY was, I could call in that mark! LOL :O) You'll have to give me a call bud. I've thinking about you guys over the last week. Been missing you and the Mrs, Sarah too! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya Lol yeah you need to get that guy over there to clean that for you man, I know for a fact he would be more than happy too. BTW my trucks ac blows so cold and has been working great better than it ever has. Tell Miss Sarah I said hi please
Would be so much easier if you removed the degas tank...
Hey Alex not sure if it would, you'd have to remove hose on the bottom of the tank and drain about a gallon of radiator fluid out. Normally it wouldn't be as hard as you see on the video, but by doing the videoing I had to keep my hands out of the way and find a suitable place for the camera too. It was actually a pretty straight forward job. Thanks for watching Alex, I hope you found part of it useful to you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya I dont mind draining some coolant if I dont have to strain and fight with tight space,I might even take both idlers off the tension so I have even more space.i appreciate you making the video,yeah it's a simple deal,I do all my own work on my vehicles,I always watch a video first,just in case there is something that is a pain in the ass,thanks for the video
@@alscompleteoutdoor9091 That's cool, I do about 95% of all my repairs too, I just put them up to help folks understand what it takes to fix a car. Then they can save some cash or have a little more respect for that mechanic. Best Wishes &Blessings. Keith Noneya
Has to be the most painful video you talk way tto much