I run eight printers pretty much 24-7... all of the original AnyCubic vats have been replaced with either Elegoo or Sovol metal vats that allow you to replace the FEP without all the hassle.
I had the same realization today. I have to say you put in a lot more work than you had to. I simply got a new fep sheet and sandwiched it again using the same screw holes and it just worked like a charm. Why did you screw new ones? Did i miss something?
Because installing the FEP is really a two-step process: First you need to install the FEP between the two frame parts and make sure it's flat and even. Then you install the frame in the VAT, which will actually tighten the FEP - but in order to do that, the FEP must be firmly fastened to the frame first. The original FEP was attached to the frame through oblong tabs which were used to glue the frame pieces together, so when installing the new FEP, that job is handled by the screws. Actually, I don't think the tapping is necessary - you could use machine screws with nuts on the other side, since the VAT has plenty of space for nuts.
Actually, I just re-read your comment and noticed that you had verified that this is not necessary, which is really good. :) I'll probably try your method if I try to replace the FEP.
You don’t have to go through all of that just add a new member in between the two frame pieces, replace it into the tray just like you would the other kind
Thanks for the video. Without drilling, I kind of got it to work. I placed one side of the frame into the vat, then went through systematically cutting holes and installing screws one or two turns. The sheet is almost completely flat at this point. I then went around tightening each screw one turn at a time. I think it overstretched the FEP, but it didn't break, so we'll see. Next time I may put some kind of weight so it has a little slack before final tightening.
Nice hack! I know you say "no tools", but I used a "reinforced scraper blade" to clean the resin off the glass, actually. Making sure you control the angle of the blade carefully to keep the edge perfectly parallel to the glass, you won't scrape the glass, and the resin comes off easily. I can absolutely NOT recommend this to anyone not very experienced with doing similar things though. A blade like that can absolutely scratch the glass very easily if you make a mistake. Also, there's no reason not to use an electric screwdriver to remove the screws, of course. You probably want to hand-tighten them, but removing them with an electric tool is just much faster.
in fact i fucked up my fep sheet by making a hole in it, some resin leaked on the screen, and trying to take it off when cured i broke the lcd, now i have to wait 2 weeks for a new one
Cured resin actually peels off the screen pretty easily. I recently fixed a printer for a client who had a hole in his fep and got like 10ml of resin all over the screen. I use a wood chisel that I keep extremely sharp and polished; I hold the angled part of the blade tip perfectly parallel with the screen, and slide it under the cured resin- I managed to remove all the resin from the screen without a scratch. It wasn't quick, but if you are very careful (and your chisel doesn't have ANY burrs on it), it won't scratch the screen. FYI a chisel is also my preferred method of removing prints from the buildplate. It's much sharper than a scraper and the flat back of the chisel grind allows it to slide along the buildplate without scratching, while also getting under the print and lifting it off. Works much better than the garbage scraper they give you with the printer which is much more damaging to the print. Since it slides along the buildplate, I rounded off the sides of this chisel, and polished them so there is no surface that can scratch, and also hit the back side of the cutting edge with a very quick pass with 400 and 800 grit to remove any microscopic burrs. As long as it is held parallel it leaves no marks in the aluminum.
It's interesting. When I got my photon Mono I came across people that swore by covering the screen with a tablet screen protector but others thought it was 100% unnecessary. This is the first video where someone was dealing with a leak.
This would have been a lot more accurate and easier with a drill press. I am sure if you had one that would be in the video. Very nice tutorial on overcoming this poor design with a bit of brainpower. I initially thought of FDM printing a frame, but it would never be as strong as this extruded one. Very nice work. I heard that you can use FEP plastic from vacuum sealer bags that are used in food prep. The inner lining being FEP. A box of this would last you your printer's service life.
Thanks. I do have a drill press (and a milling machine with a DRO if precision was required) - but thought it would be more useful to show with hand tools so that others could see it could be done without sophisticated tools
Your fep may be too tight you may need to put a bottle cap under the center of the fep and clamp the frame down then install in the vat.... Plenty of YT vids explain it better 👍
I was worried that without being 'clamped' / sandwiched in the frame, the FEP would just tear around the holes when being stretched across the vat. But that said, I didn't test it the simpler way you suggest. FEP has sprung a leak again, so maybe it's worth the experiment when I replace it
Hello. Congratulations for your chanel and this video is fantastic and great help to all of us who have this printer. I want to make a question because probably you have more experience than me using this printer. Some time , when i want to print some objet (USB 5800 KB) when the process has done, the object isn´t completly printer, a part is missing. Would you kwow where is the mistake. Thank you very much in advance for your help. I´m a little bit desperate. Thanks
The original FEP sheet was sandwiched between the two layers of the plastic frame and retained by tabs in the frame. I added the new holes so that I could screw the two halves of the frame together so that the FEP would be retained, and therefore could be tensioned without pulling on the holes for mounting the frame into the vat
What I find good for getting resin off the screen is the validation matrix test card non cured so it's soft and flexible and just abit of water! Saliva worked better but that's up to the person hahaha butbyeah worked better than them plastic razors and free just keep hold of your exposure test's matrix prints nifty not cured! Hope this wee tip helps someone it fairy saved me from getting stressed out when it happened incase it was ruined but came right off
If you print the new one do you have to do the bottle cap tension? Also, what kind of resin do you use that would be strong enough to keep the FEP tensioned ?
FDM printed substrate is not as strong as extruded plastic into an aluminum mold. The nature of building prevents material strength. Go ahead and try it of course, maybe with ABS and Acetone Vapour Smoothing as that increases part fusion and strength by up to 25%, but what he did is legit.
![[Special Clip] ATEEZ(에이티즈) 홍중 'Why Do You Love'](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I6XYXQKN_pY/mqdefault.jpg)
I run eight printers pretty much 24-7... all of the original AnyCubic vats have been replaced with either Elegoo or Sovol metal vats that allow you to replace the FEP without all the hassle.
Heya, if is not too much, what metal vat should i buy for an anycubic mono 4k? Is there any specific that i should look after?
What IS the reference ? Please for thé cuve
I had the same realization today. I have to say you put in a lot more work than you had to. I simply got a new fep sheet and sandwiched it again using the same screw holes and it just worked like a charm. Why did you screw new ones? Did i miss something?
I came to see the comments because I thought the same...
Because installing the FEP is really a two-step process: First you need to install the FEP between the two frame parts and make sure it's flat and even. Then you install the frame in the VAT, which will actually tighten the FEP - but in order to do that, the FEP must be firmly fastened to the frame first. The original FEP was attached to the frame through oblong tabs which were used to glue the frame pieces together, so when installing the new FEP, that job is handled by the screws. Actually, I don't think the tapping is necessary - you could use machine screws with nuts on the other side, since the VAT has plenty of space for nuts.
Actually, I just re-read your comment and noticed that you had verified that this is not necessary, which is really good. :) I'll probably try your method if I try to replace the FEP.
I had thought that the FEP needed to be 'held' in the frame or it might slip when tightening into the vat. Will try this next time.
@@makerealstuff i tried to use the factory holes and it did not work.. 1st print and resin oozed out the sides....
You don’t have to go through all of that just add a new member in between the two frame pieces, replace it into the tray just like you would the other kind
Thanks for the video. Without drilling, I kind of got it to work. I placed one side of the frame into the vat, then went through systematically cutting holes and installing screws one or two turns. The sheet is almost completely flat at this point. I then went around tightening each screw one turn at a time. I think it overstretched the FEP, but it didn't break, so we'll see. Next time I may put some kind of weight so it has a little slack before final tightening.
Nice hack!
I know you say "no tools", but I used a "reinforced scraper blade" to clean the resin off the glass, actually. Making sure you control the angle of the blade carefully to keep the edge perfectly parallel to the glass, you won't scrape the glass, and the resin comes off easily. I can absolutely NOT recommend this to anyone not very experienced with doing similar things though. A blade like that can absolutely scratch the glass very easily if you make a mistake.
Also, there's no reason not to use an electric screwdriver to remove the screws, of course. You probably want to hand-tighten them, but removing them with an electric tool is just much faster.
You're braver than me with the blade on the glass!
Risky. Use a plastic palette knife instead. Steel blade is stronger than glass. Ask me how I know.
in fact i fucked up my fep sheet by making a hole in it, some resin leaked on the screen, and trying to take it off when cured i broke the lcd, now i have to wait 2 weeks for a new one
Cured resin actually peels off the screen pretty easily. I recently fixed a printer for a client who had a hole in his fep and got like 10ml of resin all over the screen. I use a wood chisel that I keep extremely sharp and polished; I hold the angled part of the blade tip perfectly parallel with the screen, and slide it under the cured resin- I managed to remove all the resin from the screen without a scratch. It wasn't quick, but if you are very careful (and your chisel doesn't have ANY burrs on it), it won't scratch the screen. FYI a chisel is also my preferred method of removing prints from the buildplate. It's much sharper than a scraper and the flat back of the chisel grind allows it to slide along the buildplate without scratching, while also getting under the print and lifting it off. Works much better than the garbage scraper they give you with the printer which is much more damaging to the print. Since it slides along the buildplate, I rounded off the sides of this chisel, and polished them so there is no surface that can scratch, and also hit the back side of the cutting edge with a very quick pass with 400 and 800 grit to remove any microscopic burrs. As long as it is held parallel it leaves no marks in the aluminum.
It's interesting. When I got my photon Mono I came across people that swore by covering the screen with a tablet screen protector but others thought it was 100% unnecessary. This is the first video where someone was dealing with a leak.
Sticky tape has served me well for getting resin off
I dont't get it, why more screws?
This would have been a lot more accurate and easier with a drill press. I am sure if you had one that would be in the video. Very nice tutorial on overcoming this poor design with a bit of brainpower. I initially thought of FDM printing a frame, but it would never be as strong as this extruded one. Very nice work. I heard that you can use FEP plastic from vacuum sealer bags that are used in food prep. The inner lining being FEP. A box of this would last you your printer's service life.
Thanks. I do have a drill press (and a milling machine with a DRO if precision was required) - but thought it would be more useful to show with hand tools so that others could see it could be done without sophisticated tools
@@makerealstuff Good call then.
I used only the holes already existing, fingers crossed I dont have any leakage 🤞🏼
I changed the film for a new one and I had resin leaking. It seems the original film had some kind of seal/glue in order to prevent this.
I found the best way to clean resin of the lcd screen is a high grit sandpaper and a good palm sander
I just use an Auger Hammer and #3 chisel.
Your fep may be too tight you may need to put a bottle cap under the center of the fep and clamp the frame down then install in the vat.... Plenty of YT vids explain it better 👍
Thanks for the tip
Why not just remove the FEP and use the frame as a regular metal one? I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.
I was worried that without being 'clamped' / sandwiched in the frame, the FEP would just tear around the holes when being stretched across the vat. But that said, I didn't test it the simpler way you suggest. FEP has sprung a leak again, so maybe it's worth the experiment when I replace it
Your audio keeps dipping. Please fix.
Appreciated, but this guy is doing too much. Just order the part.
Why do you apply Indian Pale Ale?
It makes it that much smoother... :)
This is more work than it's worth. Buy some new fep, place it in between. The end.
Dude use a screen protector!
Hello. Congratulations for your chanel and this video is fantastic and great help to all of us who have this printer. I want to make a question because probably you have more experience than me using this printer. Some time , when i want to print some objet (USB 5800 KB) when the process has done, the object isn´t completly printer, a part is missing. Would you kwow where is the mistake. Thank you very much in advance for your help. I´m a little bit desperate. Thanks
I’m still trying to understand why you drilled new holes???
The original FEP sheet was sandwiched between the two layers of the plastic frame and retained by tabs in the frame. I added the new holes so that I could screw the two halves of the frame together so that the FEP would be retained, and therefore could be tensioned without pulling on the holes for mounting the frame into the vat
It is easier to use a soldering iron for this
not working, my fep was demaged after first print
What was the length of the M3 screws?
M3 x 4mm CSK -> 4mm thread length, ~6mm total length
What I find good for getting resin off the screen is the validation matrix test card non cured so it's soft and flexible and just abit of water! Saliva worked better but that's up to the person hahaha butbyeah worked better than them plastic razors and free just keep hold of your exposure test's matrix prints nifty not cured! Hope this wee tip helps someone it fairy saved me from getting stressed out when it happened incase it was ruined but came right off
Can anyone tell me the length of the m3 screws to hold the fep un place
M3 x 4mm CSK -> 4mm thread length, ~6mm total length
@@makerealstuff thanks
i would lose my mind over if the screen was cracked
whats hack about it? its just a replacement
Bruh you're trying way too hard
Why don't you print new one? There's several on thingy
If you print the new one do you have to do the bottle cap tension? Also, what kind of resin do you use that would be strong enough to keep the FEP tensioned ?
How would I do that on the printer itself when the FEP is leaking?
@@makerealstuff they assume you have more than one printer or a fdm printer also
FDM printed substrate is not as strong as extruded plastic into an aluminum mold. The nature of building prevents material strength. Go ahead and try it of course, maybe with ABS and Acetone Vapour Smoothing as that increases part fusion and strength by up to 25%, but what he did is legit.
nо have 15$?
ROFLMAO.
If the screen is glass just use a fresh razor blade and scrap it clean.