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Good video, I am planning to buy R5C this week. How stable is the Snapshot build? since OpenWrt is yet have official support for the R5C

That custom case is great, well done! I haven't gone nearly that far with my home NAS.

Nice... M.2 Slot can be used for nvme SSD?

What x99 board is this exactly? I would be interested in finding just the mobo. $180 is kinda steep for that setup to me

Thanks - very interesting.

does anyone know what size this motherboard is? it says atx, but looks smaller to me will it fit the matx node 804?

Make sure your WD red drives are not smr drives you want cmr also disable the WD smart check after 3 years I hear it will flag the drives for age not looked much into that yet

They don't test the memory. One of mine was bad and it was just easier ton buy another stick from ebay.

whats the power consumption on this on idle/load?

What are your temps like after you have this installed in a case? I went with a cheap cooler, then upgraded the CPU fan (it's advertised at 3300 rpm but hasn't broke 2400 rpm yet).

No link to where you bought this board?

Can you please do a followup with how its goig after installing proxmox and also what the power consumtion is when idle with proxmox only and after adding the drives?

Hi, thanks for the video, which motherboard is?

Where can i buy the motherbaord and chassis?

The built-in EFI shell is a common feature amongst systems that use EFI. It's a basic tool that you can use to boot .efi images from connected drives among other things. Think of it like a command prompt / bash shell. It's very handy when you want to do something like flash the firmware of an add-in card like lsi sas card or a hard drive without having to boot into a more traditional OS.

great video but please check out your audio since its only playing on the leftside of my headset (the headset works fine)

Opened this video - thought heck, i bought huananzhi few month ago, and 6 lans looks really cool. But wat da hell, this xeons has 4 channel memory, why there is only 2 dimms?

Great video! Im curious what's the power consumption of this build?

You're back! 🎉

Sticky tape has served me well for getting resin off

What thickness did you use?

This is my first 3D printer, the noise in the Input Shaping calibration step got me worried! Thanks for the video!

this is realy good

very cool that you didn't weld anything cause I don't have an good tig welder yet

Your audio keeps dipping. Please fix.

Very cool project but why did you not just get a stainless steel rail so that you can keep it heated while not getting rusted by condensation 😊

when you want to spend 4x the cost of something you can buy and take an entire week to build vs 20 minutes to go BUY IT. what a waste. also turned out like some 7th grade drop out meth head shade tree mechanic BS

Interesting that you put the effort in to actually fix it instead of just buying a new rail. Do you have any issues with your Mono and Antialiasing? I have been trying to dial in this same printer that I found at a thrift store for $25 but even after a firmware update, the AA seems to only work to an extent, but I cant get a completely smooth surface like on my Mars 2 pro.

Why not just remove the FEP and use the frame as a regular metal one? I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

I have a question I bought a new m5s and it’s not printing any of the items I put on the usb can you help me please

I changed the film for a new one and I had resin leaking. It seems the original film had some kind of seal/glue in order to prevent this.

your modification is no longer available is there any way to access it again?

it is too thin and will bend quickly . That can be seem even you pull with your hand . Skip rivets and thin metal .

I would make one simple change that would be a big improvement: Leave 1 inch long on the front side and fold it forward 90° and then the last 1/4 inch or so another 45° or 90°. It will make the drawer much more rigid, and give you a handle what won't cut your fingers off if you get them caught when closing the drawer.

It's interesting. When I got my photon Mono I came across people that swore by covering the screen with a tablet screen protector but others thought it was 100% unnecessary. This is the first video where someone was dealing with a leak.

brilliant and simple! Thank you!

I also got the same pneumatic riveter but air keeps leaking on the riveter head spares..

Thanks for the video. Without drilling, I kind of got it to work. I placed one side of the frame into the vat, then went through systematically cutting holes and installing screws one or two turns. The sheet is almost completely flat at this point. I then went around tightening each screw one turn at a time. I think it overstretched the FEP, but it didn't break, so we'll see. Next time I may put some kind of weight so it has a little slack before final tightening.

Whilst I applaud the use of steel for drawers (less wasted space, etc) there are some problems. You may be able to get 0.5mm galvanized steel 'at hardware stores'- in the UK I could not locate it even at national steel stockists - best I could find was 0.9mm Probably just as well- 0.5 is not very rigid for heavy contents, and increases the problem of sharp edges- commercial steel drawers always have folded over edges. Cost- the material is over three times the price of 9mm ply, where joined construction results in less waste. Size- if the bottom is to not 'belly down' and foul the drawer below, it either has to be quite small (I like drawers to be 1m x 0.6m) or a large gap between drawers is needed- negating the value of using thin material. Small drawers increase cost (runners and sides) and reduce convenience. Of course, I would want both a front to cover the gaps, and a handle (especially with sharp edges)- and a printed label.

I used only the holes already existing, fingers crossed I dont have any leakage 🤞🏼

Just a little improvement - if you cut the tabs with an angle on them they are easier to bend to 90 deg (the bottom of the tab) and the top of the tab doesn't protrude above the other side removing a sharp point that can get you. Can be any angle over say 30 deg - a quick snip with a hand cutter. At minimum do the top of the tab as it is easy to do and makes the drawer less aggressive... :)

Brilliant idea. Wanted to do this but runners where i live are anything between $20-$50 + shipping or travel costs, so each drawer works out to be between $50-100 if using thin plate steel or galv (which has to be sourced at local shop so they add cost) which for me always feels like a kick in the pants when you can't even afford to do stuff on the cheap. Keep up the good work cause giving people ideas and hope is a nice thing to do :)

I dont't get it, why more screws?

What I find good for getting resin off the screen is the validation matrix test card non cured so it's soft and flexible and just abit of water! Saliva worked better but that's up to the person hahaha butbyeah worked better than them plastic razors and free just keep hold of your exposure test's matrix prints nifty not cured! Hope this wee tip helps someone it fairy saved me from getting stressed out when it happened incase it was ruined but came right off

This is more work than it's worth. Buy some new fep, place it in between. The end.

"PromoSM" 🤣

Nice work dude

If the screen is glass just use a fresh razor blade and scrap it clean.

Great video indeed, will you ever consider upgrading to a bigger printer and if so, which one?

Hi, another great video, thanks! Can you tell me if you still use the plastic frame for the film [the disposable Anycubic one that you opened up and screwed back together) that you showed in an earlier video?