The FEP is the clear plastic film that is at the bottom of the resin tray. The image is projected onto the FEP and the resin cures to both the build plate and the film. The cured resin then peels away from the FEP when the build plate lifts between each layer. In order to work properly, the FEP needs to be under a certain amount of tension, like the surface of a drum. The thinking here is that a plastic tray won’t last as long or is possibly not as strong as an aluminum one. For me it is just a sign that the company is cutting corners for profit. Especially when there are better all-metal printers out there that cost less. Look up my review of the Voxelab Proxima and you will see how a printer can be well-built with quality materials and also be the most affordable in its class. Thanks for the question and happy printing!
@@SouthpawWorkshop Hi, i am also a new to 3d printer, and am considering to buy one, is this issues cause a problem to print? or it is more about long term use? Thank you.
Don’t get me wrong, the Photon Mono is a great printer, especially for beginners. My gripe is around design decisions like the plastic construction and the proprietary FEP replacements. I usually suggest the Voxelab Proxima for beginners because of its superior build quality, low price and high print success rate.
Probably better in the way that the Proxima came with a spare FEP and higher quality tools like the scraper and spatula. The fact that is cheaper helps also.
I really hope you can tell the difference between a review and a product sent ad lmao, they literally tell you in review videos if they were given by the company lol
@@Aeaaoooaaa Not always. It's common on youtube to review an item that a company gave you. Hence why some channels are more legit than others, Project Farm, to name one of the best ones. They buy the products themselves and review them.
I got at least 80 prints out of that plastic vat + FEP, then it got a nasty bump after it stuck to the build plate and I was afraid to push it further. Switched to the 3rd party metal vat now.
@Ioan Croitor Fine, but changing the FEP is a hassle. Was able to buy more Anycubic FEPs that are already on the frame and they have been working ideally.
Thank you so much for your review and tips! I’m new to 3D printing and trying to educate myself to the hobby. This is helping a lot in making an informed decision about purchasing the Anycubic. Thank you so much, not all heroes wear a cape, unless it’s 3D printed in this hobby lol.
Great review, However people keep mistaking exposure time for layer time which is incorrect... Exposure might be 1.5s, but there are extra seconds for Z axis movement. I think the Mono is actually advertised at 30mm per hour which at a default layer height of 0.05mm is 6 seconds per layer, which in my tests is pretty acurate. I have not had to replace my FEP yet and the unit is now 6 months old. I might look into the replacement Metal Vat when I need to replace the FEP. For me, although the base is plastic, it doesn't feel cheap, and helps reduce the weight, which also help with shipping costs, but it doesn't seem to have made the product less sturdy. Overall I really like this printer and have just recently upgraded to the Mono X 4K with the Wash and Cure Plus.
I've been looking to finally invest in a resin printer now that my stim check has arrived and I'm so relieved I found this and you mentioned the vat! Saving this for later so I can get that, thank you for this.
Looking at this puppy strictly for D&D figures. I'm a beginner so seems like a good starter set. How often does the FEP need to be replaced? Noob question from a noob. (and great video....well spoken and concise).
FEP can be pretty temperamental. If we’ll taken care of, it can last a long time. However, some things are just out of your control, like failed prints. Most of the time a failed print won’t negatively affect the FEP, but sometimes it does. If you buy this printer, my suggestion is to have a spare FEP handy. That way if you have a pinhole or tear, you can get back to printing right away. Having said all of that, I’m still on the original FEP that came with my Photon Mono and I have printed a lot with it. Hope that helps!
Just got this yesterday as my first 3D printer. My first few prints failed because I hadn't adjusted the level correctly, but once I got that issue resolved my next print came out amazing! I am glad I watched this video though, because I wasn't aware of the FEP issue. Might have to do the same thing you did when the time comes.
Thanks for your review, I'm doing my first print of the test cube right now on my new Mono, looks like its printing fine, I got the Wash and Cure station by Anycubic as well as I'm needing all the help I can get with keeping the kitchen clean! Started off with Anycubic Translucent Green and peeping through the gap between the vat and the bad its looking gerat
Any 3d printer recommendations at a slightly higher price? The Anycubic 6k looks like a really solid option, Voxelab still only sells up to a 4k screen resin printer that's actually slightly more expensive.
So out of curiosity, does the yellow cover on the printer help protect against toxins releasing from the print in the environment? I’m living in a small apartment and looking for something I could use while also not risking health with toxins in my small living space.
How are the fumes? Do these printers need any kind of ventilation? I've never used a Resin printer before. It looks like you're just printing in a regular room, do you just wait till it's done and then open a window or something?
The resin fumes can be a controversial topic. The only time they are a problem for me is when I am actively working with the resin such as pouring it or cleaning a print. I don’t smell it during printing or any time the lid is on the printer. Ideally, you would want to make sure the room is adequately ventilated. You definitely don’t want to keep the printer in your bedroom or another regularly-occupied area of your house.
Hi, you state that there are not many printers that are better at that price, I am wondering if you could list the ones that are better for roughly the same price. Thanks in advance
Check out the Voxelab Proxima. Same quality prints, better quality construction and probably about 25% less than the Anycubic Photon Mono. The only other that would be equal to the Photon Mono would be the Elegoo Mars 2.
Hey thanks for this great information. If been pondering on getting this exact same 3d printer for small miniatures and accessories for dioramas and such. You are the first one out of all of the videos I've watched in my research that mentioned the issue about the plastic vat and the fact that their is a third party replacement for it. When im ready to buy this 3d pinter ill make sure I use your links to support you 👍.
I'm interested on buying the Photon Mono to start on the 3D printing world, I had watch some reviews and so far yours was awesome, you clarified doubts and encourage me to move on purchasing this model, thank you! I hope you answer future questions that I may have when I start with this project. Salutes from Honduras.
I believe that the mono SE sports a dual rail if that is a major concern for you. I have not experienced any Z wobble with my mono and I have had the printer for almost a year at this point.
New to printing here. My brother got me this printer probably about a Year ago, and I'm just now looking into what we can do with it/how to use it. ^^; I was wondering if you can use different resins with this printer? I want different colors like Red, Purple, Yellow, and Brown. But Anycubic doesn't seem to officially have those colors. At least they have Beige. I'm making a custom Japanese style action figure, and I probably need to 3D print the joints, instead of resin casting it. (although if I have to, I will do that too) Thank you for making this review btw. I'm happy to see it prints fairly well! :3
While those colors may not be available, you should be able to dye your resin any color you would like. I don’t have a procedure for you, but you should be able to find some good info here on RUclips about it.
@@SouthpawWorkshop *Looked it up* Indeed you are correct! it looks like that might work! Thanks for the suggestion! I can't wait to start making stuff! Although... gotta find a good place to print stuff. there's a lovely shelf in my bedroom, right next to where I sleep. But I have heard the smell can be quite strong so... I guess to the Garage we go. Thanks again! :3
It's now almost a year later. How has this printer held up? Has Anycubic changed the FEP installation or is there 3rd party FEP available that works? I see some advertised, but I don't know if it's more trouble than it's worth.
I have too many printers, so some don’t get used as much as others. I do use the Photon Mono from time to time and the original FEP has held up well, but I am extra careful and clean between uses. I can’t say I have seen any 3rd party replacement FEP for this style, but the Sovol replacement vat (which I own) is always on standby in case there is an issue. It takes standard FEP replacements and is solid aluminum with a steel retaining ring. Best part is that it doesn’t cost much more than the proprietary Anycubic FEP replacement, so for me it was a no-brainer. An added benefit is that it also fits the Elegoo Mars 2 printers, so you can interchange as needed if you have both printers like I do. Good luck in your printing pursuits!
@@SouthpawWorkshop Thank you, friend. Anycubic is running a bundle sale right now with their wash station. But you've got me thinking about the Voxelab. Anycubic does have their FEP replacements at 11.99 for 2 of them. But $20 shipping.
I did lower the layer exposure from the default 2.5 seconds to 1.8 seconds just to see how well it performs. It worked just fine at stock settings though.
Depends on which slicer you are using. I used the default settings from Chitubox with good results. You may want to use heavier supports if your prints are failing. Room temperature can affect print success as well. If you are printing in less than 70 degrees F, prints are more likely to fail. Hope that helps!
@@SouthpawWorkshop I just checked the light intensity and it is set to 10. What intensity are you running? The models are pre supported from highland miniatures which normally run flawless on my photon S. For slicer I am running Lychee.
This is a great video. Thank you so much for the time you took to make it. Will definitely be using your affiliate link, and look forward to seeing more of your videos.
I need to send you some pics of the awesome stuff I have been printing with this thing. Only problem is that I don't have the time or motivation to paint these models lol
Lots of people vent in different ways. Best way would be to keep it in a garage or some other location out of the house. I’m sure there are videos online about diy fume hoods if it has to be in the home
The detail is about the same. They print a little faster and the big difference is that the mono screen lasts longer than the LCD screen before you would need to replace it.
I like the idea of a prepared FEP because but lets first establish a few points why: * I haven't changed one before, will do it for the first time next week, looks scary xD * price is okay where I live. I even get two for a better price than normal FEP at many other web stores but... buying regular FEP sheets from Anycubic is an even better deal. * Free, fast shipping from Anycubic where I live I see your point though and is a bit surprised that Anycubic hasn't solved this by simply making regular FEP frames for experiened users that want to change it all on their own or use third party FEP. Best of both worlds :)
Good point. Since this is the only printer they make that is like this, my guess is they were testing the market to see if people were willing to buy the pre-assembled frame. It is a good idea, but at the time of the review, replacements weren’t even available to buy, so many people were just buying replacement vats that took normal FEP film.
Thanks for this review. Very informative. As my Anycubic Photon failed -- and I am too lazy to repair it -- the Photon Mono is looking good. Note that my current Photon was bought on eBay. Nothing more needs to be said. The Mono will be brand new.
@@SouthpawWorkshop I did figure outbid needed to convert them first, I just didn't know how. I was using the photon workshop and saving them as model files. I didn't realize I had to press the giant blue layered icon beneath the manipulation Keyes to save it a a Slice file. I got it figured out. Thanks you
Well, after watching this, I do not regret buying it, lol. The cyber monday deal was to good, so I bit the bullet (Bought the matching curing station with it, might have not been worth it after seeing your janky but effective curing box!) After seeing this review, I feel a lot better. Now, just have to keep waiting for it to arrive...
It’s a good printer. You won’t be disappointed. I’m kinda jealous. Even though my curing station works, it is definitely not as nice as the all-in-one units.
I have not found temperature tolerance data for the grey resin. I need prints that can survive vulcanizatiin in rubber at 300 F. Can you help? Many thanks.
High temperature resin is a fairly limited market. Formlabs makes a product that can withstand up to 238C but it is pretty pricey. About $200 USD per liter. Check it out at the Formlabs.com website.
@@SouthpawWorkshop thank you. That is really the only resin that I have seen. I was thinking that there must be others, but looks like there isn't. I need to find out if that resin will work in this Anycubic Mono that you have reviewed here.
I really like how easy to understand this video was. You used as little jargon as possible and the content was relevant to my basic knowledge of the subject. Thanks for investing the time in this.
I need help very badly everything I try to print is coming out as broken supports of unrecognizable blocks i try to print some infaentry units or one single ork and each time it filled the entire build plate with random unrecognizable molds of split supports and random crap you cant even tell what the models were suppossed to be and I cannot find anything online at to help this I watched hours of troubleshooting videos and notbing as resolved the issue I repelled redid exposure times went back to factory exposure tried doing on mini at a time angled to 45 degrees and I keep getting just twisted melted piles of slag that dont resemble anything close to the model I am trying to print. It is becoming very frustrating to the point of wanting to cry I waited for so long and jumoed through so many hoops and worked my ass off to get this mono printer and I cannot for the life of me get it to print anything.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Have you tried running some screen tests to make sure your screen is in good shape? There should be an option to display a grid pattern on the screen, lay a piece of paper over the screen and look to see if the pattern and intensity of the light is even across the whole surface. Another question I would have for you is what type of resin have you been using? I hope you can get your issues resolved soon!
@@SouthpawWorkshop the lights are fine I just checked it that was my first thing theres a video on my youtibe page I uploaded thank you and i am using the anycubic resin that came with my photon mono. I must be missing something I am brand new to 3d resin printing it pronts the test prints I followed instructions step by step for using chitubox for the photon I dont kmow what is happening.
@@SouthpawWorkshop I fixed it I have no idea what I did to fix it but it is printing now I think maybe I had overloaded to many models onto the printer or the files were corrupt.
as requested, i have hit the like button. aside from that one flaw, which you've introduced a solution to ('preciate that), sounds like this will be the 3D printer for me. again, thanks for the info.👍
using 3 days and the uv light not working, not sure its the uv light power supply or the uv light panel itself, using multimeter read 12v from the in or out of uv power supply and from the uv panel itself, also i noticed the heatsink of uv panel its just the bottom 3d printer plat without fins or a fan
You will need a way to clean the print after it is done printing. Normal resin cleans up with isopropyl alcohol. There are water-washable resins out there as well. For curing, you may want to buy a UV light, but you can also use sunlight as a free way to cure your prints. Hope that helps!
7:38 I'm sorry mate but that's the single most worthless noise level demonstration I've seen... was it really that hard to pick a moment when no other printers in the room were emitting noise to record footage for the review?
It is in the video description under “Sovol Resin Vat”. Note that the price has gone up likely due to high demand. Still worth it in my opinion though.
I had to manually separate that plastic FEP with a small plastic spatula (the kind you use for fixing small electronics) and then replaced my damaged FEP sheet with some sheet I bought off Amazon. Then just placed the sheet in between the plastic pieces, screwed it into the vat, and cut off the excess with a sharp blade. It's honestly some Apple level garbage for them to try that proprietary stuff with the FEP.
new to 3d printing and have yet to buy one but am i understanding it correct that 1. i need to regularly buy a new clear film for the resin vat, the fep i think? 2 i am adviced to buy the aluminium vat because it damages less quickly 3 does the lcd screen need changing aswell?
FEP film will need to be replaced eventually, but that depends on how well you take care of your film. The Sovol vat is recommended not only because it is made of metal and higher quality than the Anycubic vat, but also because FEP replacement on it is easier and less expensive than the Anycubic method. Your screen will also wear our eventually, but it should last hundreds to thousands of hours before needing replacement.
It is a great printer for the price. You may want to consider the Voxelab Proxima. It costs less and is built better. Performs exactly as well as the Anycubic Photon Mono. You can watch my video review of it, or check it out on Amazon: amzn.to/3rNFhBs
Hello, I would be interested in buying a 3D printer for creating miniatures, I have seen that the photon mono 4k came out and it does not differ much in price with the previous one. do you think it is a better choice? I would like your advice. thank you!!
Both are great printers. The Mars 2 Pro is built better and is a more solid machine overall. I think the photon mono has some type of filtration, but it is internal and not accessible.
Hey Thomas, thanks for the video! I unboxed my printer today and tried printing the test file, but after a while, I went to check on it and noticed the cube had snapped off from the base circle and the whole thing was a waste. I'm pretty sure I did everything I was supposed to do in terms of setup (levelling, etc..) except that I had filled the resin vat at the minimum line. Do you think that was the reason or am I missing something here? I'm totally new to this and I have zero knowledge about 3D printing.
Hey Naz. This hobby can be frustrating at times, but in the end it is so rewarding! A couple things to consider: build plate level is crucial. Try leveling again with the card and make sure it doesn’t move while tightening the screws. Another big factor is the room temperature where you are printing. Every brand of resin has an optimal temperature range, but I generally try to keep my printing room above 70F. That was the biggest contributor to failed prints while I was learning. Give it another shot, don’t get discouraged! Let me know if it ends up working out. Good luck!
@@SouthpawWorkshop thanks for responding!! I leveled it again and tightened the screws on the resin vat + added a bit more resin this time. I warmed up the resin bottle (by placing it near a heater, but not too close_ for a few minutes and I made the basement where I'm printing warmer this time. It worked and I'm really looking forward to learning more about this hobby! Cheers!
Hello, I have a the regular Photon resin 3D printer. I’ve been able to get great prints out of it but I’m still new. Does this Mono model print faster than the photon? Is the build plate bigger? Thank you for any advice. Great video.
Yes, the mono prints faster. I think the build volume is the same, but the big selling point is faster prints and the screen is supposed to last longer. Cheers!
So I went with the mono SE. Do I have to adjust the settings to make it print faster than the photon? Also are the USB’s interchangeable? If I have a bunch of files on my usb for my photon can I just plug it into the SE and print those same exact files? Thanks again.
The slicing software will have a profile specifically designed for the mono SE. it will have all the correct exposure and lift/speed settings for that machine. You will need to reslice all your files because the old photon uses way different settings and the resolution is likely a little different also. Good luck!
The plastic tray isn't a deal breaker for me. How often does the FEP need replaced? I'm not counting on the plastic tray to support any weight so plastic doesn't bother me at all. In fact, kind of ironic that a plastic tray isn't considered good enough for build quality yet this printer makes everything out of plastic resin. Seems like a really good printer for fantasy minis. I'm wanting to go with the 4K version over the 2K version however.
I agree that plastic is the theme of this printer. My main gripe is that there are all-metal printers out there with the same specs as this one that cost less than the Anycubic Mono. As long as you take care of your FEP, it can last a while, but it is a finicky material. One failed print can poke a pinhole in your FEP and you will have to replace it or risk ruining your screen. If you want to avoid the main drawbacks to this printer, get yourself a Voxelab Proxima. It is a workhorse.
@@SouthpawWorkshop Aha! Thanks for educating me on that info, had not heard that yet. Will check that brand you mentioned. Getting ready to buy my first 3D printer and I just really want to get it right the first time. Thanks for the help
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have two questions. 1.Can we use it for Jewellery models? Very tinny details needed... 2. Can we use 3rd party resins. Thanks in advance!
I just bought this printer and it's on the way to me now. I saw your suggestion of a replacement vat and I like that vat much more than what comes with it. My question however is how does it attach to the printer? The original has wings on the side of it that hold it down with the screws. When you showed putting the new vat on I saw that there were hold downs over the top of the vat, was that another accessory, was that footage from a different printer or do those hold downs come with the new vat?
The new vat I suggested works with the hold-down system of the Photon Mono. The thumbscrews stay attached to the printer and the vat usually has small indents for the ends of the screws to seat into.
Just got mine for my birthday as a gift from my husband. Waiting on the test print to finish now. Will definitely get the replacement vat so I have something on hand, but for now the plastic one will do.
how do I go about designing my own parts, I used a 3d printer in my job 14 years ago and I used solid works to design parts, what do you use to design your own parts on this printer ??? , thanks phil
I've been looking into starting 3D printing and this model keeps popping up. Thanks to your review I believe this is the best choice for me. Thank you for helping me decide
How bad is the smell of the resin? I have family that are pretty sensitive to smell (can't walk in the garden poison/chemical section of a big box store without getting a headache).
Definitely noticeable when you are actively working with the resin, i.e. pouring it in, cleaning prints, etc. But the smell isn’t noticeable when the lid is on the printer.
How you made those miniatures look soo smooth? I have my Photon Mono for three weeks and every print i made is in lines and steps clearly visible , they look just ugly 😔
Hmmm. Not sure. Are you sure anti-aliasing is enabled? I can’t even remember if that is an option. I honestly printed with whatever default settings came in lychee slicer.
This one is just as good as all the others. Check out my review of the Voxelab Proxima. It is also a great printer and it is much cheaper than the Anycubic
Does anyone know the speed difference between this and the color Anycubin Photon? I've got the color and was wondering if it's worth the upgrade. I know I can upgrade the screen in mine, but it's a real faff with the chance of breaking something, and the mono seems pretty cheap now.
Exposure speed on the mono is 2-3 seconds compared to the 7-8 seconds exposure on the standard photon. That doesn’t mean that the mono prints 2-3 times faster though. There is a lot of time spent lifting and repositioning the build plate, so I would say the mono is probably 20-30% faster than the standard. If I were you, I would use what you have until the lcd goes out, then consider upgrading at that point. Happy printing!
@@SouthpawWorkshop I know that some printers allow you to change the firmware to make the up/down movements faster. Does this mono have that possibility?
You can change those settings to a certain degree in Chitubox. I know some people heave experimented with pushing the limits of speed on these machines, but I prefer to keep my speed stock because the faster you move the platform, the higher the chance of print failure. So to answer your question, yes you can speed it up in the slicer and possibly push it even farther with firmware changes, but the law of diminishing returns applies prominently in this case. Good luck!
I prefer mine without the vent. As long as the lid is on, no fumes will escape. When post processing, I wear an organic vapor mask to deal not only with the resin vapor, but also the alcohol vapors. Once the lid is back on or the resin is back in the bottle, the smell goes away rather quickly. I think the vents are a bit of a gimmick, in my opinion.
What is the reason the plastic tray is bad? I am brand new to this so sorry if it is a silly question. What is the FEP??
The FEP is the clear plastic film that is at the bottom of the resin tray. The image is projected onto the FEP and the resin cures to both the build plate and the film. The cured resin then peels away from the FEP when the build plate lifts between each layer. In order to work properly, the FEP needs to be under a certain amount of tension, like the surface of a drum. The thinking here is that a plastic tray won’t last as long or is possibly not as strong as an aluminum one. For me it is just a sign that the company is cutting corners for profit. Especially when there are better all-metal printers out there that cost less. Look up my review of the Voxelab Proxima and you will see how a printer can be well-built with quality materials and also be the most affordable in its class. Thanks for the question and happy printing!
@@SouthpawWorkshop Hi, i am also a new to 3d printer, and am considering to buy one, is this issues cause a problem to print? or it is more about long term use?
Thank you.
Don’t get me wrong, the Photon Mono is a great printer, especially for beginners. My gripe is around design decisions like the plastic construction and the proprietary FEP replacements. I usually suggest the Voxelab Proxima for beginners because of its superior build quality, low price and high print success rate.
@@SouthpawWorkshop would yiu say it’s better than this printer for beginners?
Probably better in the way that the Proxima came with a spare FEP and higher quality tools like the scraper and spatula. The fact that is cheaper helps also.
Thanks mate, truly. Hard to find reviews that aren't suspiciously...incentivised.
I really hope you can tell the difference between a review and a product sent ad lmao, they literally tell you in review videos if they were given by the company lol
@@Aeaaoooaaa Not always. It's common on youtube to review an item that a company gave you. Hence why some channels are more legit than others, Project Farm, to name one of the best ones. They buy the products themselves and review them.
quiet he says. lol.
I got at least 80 prints out of that plastic vat + FEP, then it got a nasty bump after it stuck to the build plate and I was afraid to push it further. Switched to the 3rd party metal vat now.
@Ioan Croitor Fine, but changing the FEP is a hassle. Was able to buy more Anycubic FEPs that are already on the frame and they have been working ideally.
Thank you so much for your review and tips! I’m new to 3D printing and trying to educate myself to the hobby. This is helping a lot in making an informed decision about purchasing the Anycubic. Thank you so much, not all heroes wear a cape, unless it’s 3D printed in this hobby lol.
Glad my video was helpful. Cheers!
Same.
Great review, However people keep mistaking exposure time for layer time which is incorrect... Exposure might be 1.5s, but there are extra seconds for Z axis movement. I think the Mono is actually advertised at 30mm per hour which at a default layer height of 0.05mm is 6 seconds per layer, which in my tests is pretty acurate. I have not had to replace my FEP yet and the unit is now 6 months old. I might look into the replacement Metal Vat when I need to replace the FEP. For me, although the base is plastic, it doesn't feel cheap, and helps reduce the weight, which also help with shipping costs, but it doesn't seem to have made the product less sturdy. Overall I really like this printer and have just recently upgraded to the Mono X 4K with the Wash and Cure Plus.
Is it worth to get this or should I go epax ?
How do you get 30mm/hour as it took me almost 6 hours at 2.0 sec exposure?
I've been looking to finally invest in a resin printer now that my stim check has arrived and I'm so relieved I found this and you mentioned the vat! Saving this for later so I can get that, thank you for this.
Ordered mine today. Along wiht that Resin Vat. Thanks.
Quality review. I appreciate the way you approached it
Thanks for watching!
Looking at this puppy strictly for D&D figures. I'm a beginner so seems like a good starter set. How often does the FEP need to be replaced? Noob question from a noob. (and great video....well spoken and concise).
FEP can be pretty temperamental. If we’ll taken care of, it can last a long time. However, some things are just out of your control, like failed prints. Most of the time a failed print won’t negatively affect the FEP, but sometimes it does. If you buy this printer, my suggestion is to have a spare FEP handy. That way if you have a pinhole or tear, you can get back to printing right away. Having said all of that, I’m still on the original FEP that came with my Photon Mono and I have printed a lot with it. Hope that helps!
As mine is still in the mail, I’m super excited to finally be able to print out my dnd armies!
Awesome! Happy printing!
I've just bought 1 and I'm happy to see that is a good machine. For 180€ I can't ask for more of a printer. Great review
Just got mine today. Did you put a protection the polarized screen or just used stock?
I use stock with no issues. Just keep an eye on your FEP. I have heard of others using screen protectors to protect from spills.
I have one of these in the cart now, I just wanted to see an honest review first.
Just got this yesterday as my first 3D printer. My first few prints failed because I hadn't adjusted the level correctly, but once I got that issue resolved my next print came out amazing! I am glad I watched this video though, because I wasn't aware of the FEP issue. Might have to do the same thing you did when the time comes.
It’s a great printer. Have fun!
Thanks for your review, I'm doing my first print of the test cube right now on my new Mono, looks like its printing fine, I got the Wash and Cure station by Anycubic as well as I'm needing all the help I can get with keeping the kitchen clean! Started off with Anycubic Translucent Green and peeping through the gap between the vat and the bad its looking gerat
Exciting stuff. Performance-wise, my photon mono has been rock solid.
Any 3d printer recommendations at a slightly higher price? The Anycubic 6k looks like a really solid option, Voxelab still only sells up to a 4k screen resin printer that's actually slightly more expensive.
The 6k is definitely a great option with a larger build area!
So out of curiosity, does the yellow cover on the printer help protect against toxins releasing from the print in the environment? I’m living in a small apartment and looking for something I could use while also not risking health with toxins in my small living space.
Maybe to a small degree, but without active ventilation, you will be stinking up the whole apartment every time you lift the cover.
How are the fumes? Do these printers need any kind of ventilation? I've never used a Resin printer before. It looks like you're just printing in a regular room, do you just wait till it's done and then open a window or something?
The resin fumes can be a controversial topic. The only time they are a problem for me is when I am actively working with the resin such as pouring it or cleaning a print. I don’t smell it during printing or any time the lid is on the printer. Ideally, you would want to make sure the room is adequately ventilated. You definitely don’t want to keep the printer in your bedroom or another regularly-occupied area of your house.
Thank you for the info this was a great vid
Hi, you state that there are not many printers that are better at that price, I am wondering if you could list the ones that are better for roughly the same price. Thanks in advance
Check out the Voxelab Proxima. Same quality prints, better quality construction and probably about 25% less than the Anycubic Photon Mono. The only other that would be equal to the Photon Mono would be the Elegoo Mars 2.
Great video. Thanks for covering this printer. New subscriber.
Thanks, and welcome!
Hey thanks for this great information. If been pondering on getting this exact same 3d printer for small miniatures and accessories for dioramas and such. You are the first one out of all of the videos I've watched in my research that mentioned the issue about the plastic vat and the fact that their is a third party replacement for it. When im ready to buy this 3d pinter ill make sure I use your links to support you 👍.
Thanks! I really appreciate it.
Guys I need help and advice because I deleted my test by accident and I tried to make others but it don’t let me
Are you talking about the r.e.r.f test?
I'm interested on buying the Photon Mono to start on the 3D printing world, I had watch some reviews and so far yours was awesome, you clarified doubts and encourage me to move on purchasing this model, thank you! I hope you answer future questions that I may have when I start with this project. Salutes from Honduras.
Saludos amigo!
I think main issue from mono 4k is single z rail, need dual rail for fix zwobble
I believe that the mono SE sports a dual rail if that is a major concern for you. I have not experienced any Z wobble with my mono and I have had the printer for almost a year at this point.
Do you have to put back the resin in the bottle or just leave it
I personally leave it, but it will separate in the vat, so you have to stir it before next use.
New to printing here. My brother got me this printer probably about a Year ago, and I'm just now looking into what we can do with it/how to use it. ^^;
I was wondering if you can use different resins with this printer? I want different colors like Red, Purple, Yellow, and Brown. But Anycubic doesn't seem to officially have those colors. At least they have Beige.
I'm making a custom Japanese style action figure, and I probably need to 3D print the joints, instead of resin casting it. (although if I have to, I will do that too)
Thank you for making this review btw. I'm happy to see it prints fairly well! :3
While those colors may not be available, you should be able to dye your resin any color you would like. I don’t have a procedure for you, but you should be able to find some good info here on RUclips about it.
@@SouthpawWorkshop *Looked it up*
Indeed you are correct! it looks like that might work! Thanks for the suggestion!
I can't wait to start making stuff! Although... gotta find a good place to print stuff. there's a lovely shelf in my bedroom, right next to where I sleep. But I have heard the smell can be quite strong so... I guess to the Garage we go.
Thanks again! :3
It's now almost a year later. How has this printer held up? Has Anycubic changed the FEP installation or is there 3rd party FEP available that works? I see some advertised, but I don't know if it's more trouble than it's worth.
I have too many printers, so some don’t get used as much as others. I do use the Photon Mono from time to time and the original FEP has held up well, but I am extra careful and clean between uses. I can’t say I have seen any 3rd party replacement FEP for this style, but the Sovol replacement vat (which I own) is always on standby in case there is an issue. It takes standard FEP replacements and is solid aluminum with a steel retaining ring. Best part is that it doesn’t cost much more than the proprietary Anycubic FEP replacement, so for me it was a no-brainer. An added benefit is that it also fits the Elegoo Mars 2 printers, so you can interchange as needed if you have both printers like I do. Good luck in your printing pursuits!
@@SouthpawWorkshop Thank you, friend. Anycubic is running a bundle sale right now with their wash station. But you've got me thinking about the Voxelab. Anycubic does have their FEP replacements at 11.99 for 2 of them. But $20 shipping.
Are you adjusting the printer settings like exposure at all?
I did lower the layer exposure from the default 2.5 seconds to 1.8 seconds just to see how well it performs. It worked just fine at stock settings though.
I bought one. Should I cancel and get the Proxima?
Both are equally good. If you got the 4K version of this printer, it is the better choice.
Nice UV box idea..been totally busy lately..
Love the reviews..i will for sure contact you this weekend..
I’m having hella trouble with mine, can you help ?
Tell me what you are experiencing?
Hi, could you share your setting for it. I am having trouble getting the model to stick to the supports when printing.
Depends on which slicer you are using. I used the default settings from Chitubox with good results. You may want to use heavier supports if your prints are failing. Room temperature can affect print success as well. If you are printing in less than 70 degrees F, prints are more likely to fail. Hope that helps!
@@SouthpawWorkshop I just checked the light intensity and it is set to 10. What intensity are you running?
The models are pre supported from highland miniatures which normally run flawless on my photon S. For slicer I am running Lychee.
my printer does not detect my files, what should i Do
What slicer and version you are using?
This is a great video. Thank you so much for the time you took to make it. Will definitely be using your affiliate link, and look forward to seeing more of your videos.
Thanks!
Dude, this thing looks cool! You might be sending me down a new rabbit hole😂😂
I need to send you some pics of the awesome stuff I have been printing with this thing. Only problem is that I don't have the time or motivation to paint these models lol
@@SouthpawWorkshop dude, I hear you on motivation
Getting this printer soon. Anything else to lookout for?
Nothing beyond what I mentioned in the video. It’s a good little printer. I’m sure you will enjoy it.
whats the best setting for the grey resin great video
I do 2 second layer exposure.
Thank you so much. This was really helpful.
Thanks for watching!
very honest
How does one properly vent a resin printer like this?
Lots of people vent in different ways. Best way would be to keep it in a garage or some other location out of the house. I’m sure there are videos online about diy fume hoods if it has to be in the home
Fantastic honest review - thank you 😊
Thanks for watching!
What would you recommend the UV power % should be for translucent resin?
Most manufacturers recommend around 50% power for transparent resin, so that would be a good starting point. Your mileage may vary.
@@SouthpawWorkshop thanks
Hi i bought 4 printers :
Photon zero
Photon +
Black photon s+
Photon mono
I wanna sell 3
Wich one you should keep and why?
Greetz Edwin
I like the mono screen printers, so I would keep the Photon Mono
@@SouthpawWorkshop okay thy do they print more datail?
The detail is about the same. They print a little faster and the big difference is that the mono screen lasts longer than the LCD screen before you would need to replace it.
I like the idea of a prepared FEP because but lets first establish a few points why:
* I haven't changed one before, will do it for the first time next week, looks scary xD
* price is okay where I live. I even get two for a better price than normal FEP at many other web stores but... buying regular FEP sheets from Anycubic is an even better deal.
* Free, fast shipping from Anycubic where I live
I see your point though and is a bit surprised that Anycubic hasn't solved this by simply making regular FEP frames for experiened users that want to change it all on their own or use third party FEP. Best of both worlds :)
Good point. Since this is the only printer they make that is like this, my guess is they were testing the market to see if people were willing to buy the pre-assembled frame. It is a good idea, but at the time of the review, replacements weren’t even available to buy, so many people were just buying replacement vats that took normal FEP film.
so if I buy Sovol vat I can just use any FEP film right? so problem solved :D
That is correct
@@SouthpawWorkshop thanks!
Im looking forward to buy one of these, i want to print my own models on my channel.
Will I be able to use this with a Chromebook
I don’t think chromebook is powerful enough to run the software. I believe it is Mac or PC only.
Thanks for this review. Very informative. As my Anycubic Photon failed -- and I am too lazy to repair it -- the Photon Mono is looking good. Note that my current Photon was bought on eBay. Nothing more needs to be said. The Mono will be brand new.
It is a great printer with a great community behind it. Cheers!
I bought a bunch of STL files but the printer won't recognize any of them. Do I need to print the test file first?
You will need to use a slicing program such as Chitubox to convert the STL file to a format readable by your printer. Hope that helps!
@@SouthpawWorkshop I did figure outbid needed to convert them first, I just didn't know how. I was using the photon workshop and saving them as model files. I didn't realize I had to press the giant blue layered icon beneath the manipulation Keyes to save it a a Slice file. I got it figured out. Thanks you
Great! Happy printing!
Well, after watching this, I do not regret buying it, lol. The cyber monday deal was to good, so I bit the bullet (Bought the matching curing station with it, might have not been worth it after seeing your janky but effective curing box!) After seeing this review, I feel a lot better. Now, just have to keep waiting for it to arrive...
It’s a good printer. You won’t be disappointed. I’m kinda jealous. Even though my curing station works, it is definitely not as nice as the all-in-one units.
I have not found temperature tolerance data for the grey resin. I need prints that can survive vulcanizatiin in rubber at 300 F. Can you help? Many thanks.
High temperature resin is a fairly limited market. Formlabs makes a product that can withstand up to 238C but it is pretty pricey. About $200 USD per liter. Check it out at the Formlabs.com website.
@@SouthpawWorkshop thank you. That is really the only resin that I have seen. I was thinking that there must be others, but looks like there isn't. I need to find out if that resin will work in this Anycubic Mono that you have reviewed here.
@@SouthpawWorkshop searched and read all day. Here are 2 others....
Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra 220C $75
Loctite 3D 3860 High Heat 185 C $199
Interesting. I didn’t know Loctite even made resin. I hear nothing but good things about SirayaTech. For the price, it might be worth it to try out.
I really like how easy to understand this video was. You used as little jargon as possible and the content was relevant to my basic knowledge of the subject. Thanks for investing the time in this.
Thanks for watching and your nice comment!
I need help very badly everything I try to print is coming out as broken supports of unrecognizable blocks i try to print some infaentry units or one single ork and each time it filled the entire build plate with random unrecognizable molds of split supports and random crap you cant even tell what the models were suppossed to be and I cannot find anything online at to help this I watched hours of troubleshooting videos and notbing as resolved the issue I repelled redid exposure times went back to factory exposure tried doing on mini at a time angled to 45 degrees and I keep getting just twisted melted piles of slag that dont resemble anything close to the model I am trying to print. It is becoming very frustrating to the point of wanting to cry I waited for so long and jumoed through so many hoops and worked my ass off to get this mono printer and I cannot for the life of me get it to print anything.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Have you tried running some screen tests to make sure your screen is in good shape? There should be an option to display a grid pattern on the screen, lay a piece of paper over the screen and look to see if the pattern and intensity of the light is even across the whole surface. Another question I would have for you is what type of resin have you been using? I hope you can get your issues resolved soon!
@@SouthpawWorkshop the lights are fine I just checked it that was my first thing theres a video on my youtibe page I uploaded thank you and i am using the anycubic resin that came with my photon mono. I must be missing something I am brand new to 3d resin printing it pronts the test prints I followed instructions step by step for using chitubox for the photon I dont kmow what is happening.
@@SouthpawWorkshop I fixed it I have no idea what I did to fix it but it is printing now I think maybe I had overloaded to many models onto the printer or the files were corrupt.
Great news!
as requested, i have hit the like button. aside from that one flaw, which you've introduced a solution to ('preciate that), sounds like this will be the 3D printer for me.
again, thanks for the info.👍
using 3 days and the uv light not working, not sure its the uv light power supply or the uv light panel itself, using multimeter read 12v from the in or out of uv power supply and from the uv panel itself, also i noticed the heatsink of uv panel its just the bottom 3d printer plat without fins or a fan
I don’t understand why you’re complaining about the plastic when this is budget friendly printer, of course they’re going to cut the cost
I like this type of content as I'm currently looking for a 3d printer to print miniatures for D&D at home.
Got one of these for Christmas and this video was so helpful. Thank you. Merry Christmas.
So I only need the resin ?
You will need a way to clean the print after it is done printing. Normal resin cleans up with isopropyl alcohol. There are water-washable resins out there as well. For curing, you may want to buy a UV light, but you can also use sunlight as a free way to cure your prints. Hope that helps!
7:38 I'm sorry mate but that's the single most worthless noise level demonstration I've seen... was it really that hard to pick a moment when no other printers in the room were emitting noise to record footage for the review?
So that means with +$25 make it "perfect" for the price x benefits ?
I love how the printer performs, so yes I would say it is pretty much perfect with the upgrade
Could you please provide a link for the $25 aluminum replacement vat? Thanks
It is in the video description under “Sovol Resin Vat”. Note that the price has gone up likely due to high demand. Still worth it in my opinion though.
@@SouthpawWorkshop Oh man. I checked for that but I was viewing on my iPad and didn't see it. Thanks
I had to manually separate that plastic FEP with a small plastic spatula (the kind you use for fixing small electronics) and then replaced my damaged FEP sheet with some sheet I bought off Amazon. Then just placed the sheet in between the plastic pieces, screwed it into the vat, and cut off the excess with a sharp blade.
It's honestly some Apple level garbage for them to try that proprietary stuff with the FEP.
100% agreed.
Watched this video twice. Once to watch the printer and one to see the Boston terrier
The reason why there is a sensor so you can remove the lid mid print and add more resin if necessary
new to 3d printing and have yet to buy one but am i understanding it correct that
1. i need to regularly buy a new clear film for the resin vat, the fep i think?
2 i am adviced to buy the aluminium vat because it damages less quickly
3 does the lcd screen need changing aswell?
FEP film will need to be replaced eventually, but that depends on how well you take care of your film.
The Sovol vat is recommended not only because it is made of metal and higher quality than the Anycubic vat, but also because FEP replacement on it is easier and less expensive than the Anycubic method.
Your screen will also wear our eventually, but it should last hundreds to thousands of hours before needing replacement.
Thanks, I was contemplating getting one
Are you still using this printer and has your opinion changed? I'm thinking of getting this exact model soon. thanks!
It is a great printer for the price. You may want to consider the Voxelab Proxima. It costs less and is built better. Performs exactly as well as the Anycubic Photon Mono. You can watch my video review of it, or check it out on Amazon: amzn.to/3rNFhBs
Thanks for your review. I am considering buying a NOS Anycubic Mono still in the box.
It’s a good printer. Hope it works out for you. Cheers!
Also please give me buying guide,
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K awr This one.
Plz guide
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k will be able to produce finer details. It would be the best choice for jewelry
Just picked this up last night. Kind of bummed about the FEP but i'll just get the aluminum one you mentioned and problem solved.
Where did you get the upgraded part???????
Check the description for a link to the replacement resin vat.
I got one of thease do you know if it works with orca slicer
Have you noticed later seperation after forest 10 layers
Great video... Thx...
Hello, I would be interested in buying a 3D printer for creating miniatures, I have seen that the photon mono 4k came out and it does not differ much in price with the previous one. do you think it is a better choice? I would like your advice. thank you!!
Yes, the 4K version is looking like a great machine. I hope to get my hands on one sometime soon for a proper review. Cheers!
Was looking for this one or the Elegoo Marys 2 pro.Which one do u advice for a novice?Has this one an carbon filter to?
Both are great printers. The Mars 2 Pro is built better and is a more solid machine overall. I think the photon mono has some type of filtration, but it is internal and not accessible.
Thank you for showing what comes in the Tool set! This is what I've been searching for!
Glad I could help!
Hey Thomas, thanks for the video! I unboxed my printer today and tried printing the test file, but after a while, I went to check on it and noticed the cube had snapped off from the base circle and the whole thing was a waste. I'm pretty sure I did everything I was supposed to do in terms of setup (levelling, etc..) except that I had filled the resin vat at the minimum line. Do you think that was the reason or am I missing something here? I'm totally new to this and I have zero knowledge about 3D printing.
Hey Naz. This hobby can be frustrating at times, but in the end it is so rewarding! A couple things to consider: build plate level is crucial. Try leveling again with the card and make sure it doesn’t move while tightening the screws. Another big factor is the room temperature where you are printing. Every brand of resin has an optimal temperature range, but I generally try to keep my printing room above 70F. That was the biggest contributor to failed prints while I was learning. Give it another shot, don’t get discouraged! Let me know if it ends up working out. Good luck!
@@SouthpawWorkshop thanks for responding!!
I leveled it again and tightened the screws on the resin vat + added a bit more resin this time. I warmed up the resin bottle (by placing it near a heater, but not too close_ for a few minutes and I made the basement where I'm printing warmer this time.
It worked and I'm really looking forward to learning more about this hobby!
Cheers!
Great news. Have fun!
I heard the software is alittle glitchy and doesn't work well. Is this true at the moment?
Chitubox or Lychee slicer both work great with this printer. I would avoid the Anycubic software.
Thanks for the review, been looking at getting a 3D printer for a while now and this is the one I've been looking at.
You might want to wait for my next review. I found one better than the Anycubic Photon Mono. The new video should drop in the next couple days
@@SouthpawWorkshop Sweet as I got that notification bell on.
thanks for the video, its instrumental in my bying decision and you answered most questions i had
Glad to help!
I saw the Mono SE has a metal vat, do you know if the fep is still proprietary?
It appears that the metal vats use the traditional method of FEP replacement, so no proprietary FEP for the mono SE. cheers!
Hello, I have a the regular Photon resin 3D printer. I’ve been able to get great prints out of it but I’m still new. Does this Mono model print faster than the photon? Is the build plate bigger? Thank you for any advice. Great video.
Yes, the mono prints faster. I think the build volume is the same, but the big selling point is faster prints and the screen is supposed to last longer. Cheers!
Thank you!
So I went with the mono SE. Do I have to adjust the settings to make it print faster than the photon? Also are the USB’s interchangeable? If I have a bunch of files on my usb for my photon can I just plug it into the SE and print those same exact files? Thanks again.
The slicing software will have a profile specifically designed for the mono SE. it will have all the correct exposure and lift/speed settings for that machine. You will need to reslice all your files because the old photon uses way different settings and the resolution is likely a little different also. Good luck!
Thanks so much for the fast reply. Really helps a lot. Have a great night!
The plastic tray isn't a deal breaker for me. How often does the FEP need replaced? I'm not counting on the plastic tray to support any weight so plastic doesn't bother me at all. In fact, kind of ironic that a plastic tray isn't considered good enough for build quality yet this printer makes everything out of plastic resin. Seems like a really good printer for fantasy minis. I'm wanting to go with the 4K version over the 2K version however.
I agree that plastic is the theme of this printer. My main gripe is that there are all-metal printers out there with the same specs as this one that cost less than the Anycubic Mono. As long as you take care of your FEP, it can last a while, but it is a finicky material. One failed print can poke a pinhole in your FEP and you will have to replace it or risk ruining your screen. If you want to avoid the main drawbacks to this printer, get yourself a Voxelab Proxima. It is a workhorse.
@@SouthpawWorkshop Aha! Thanks for educating me on that info, had not heard that yet. Will check that brand you mentioned. Getting ready to buy my first 3D printer and I just really want to get it right the first time. Thanks for the help
Great review but the volume is really quiet
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have two questions.
1.Can we use it for Jewellery models? Very tinny details needed...
2. Can we use 3rd party resins.
Thanks in advance!
Yes and yes
I just bought this printer and it's on the way to me now. I saw your suggestion of a replacement vat and I like that vat much more than what comes with it. My question however is how does it attach to the printer? The original has wings on the side of it that hold it down with the screws. When you showed putting the new vat on I saw that there were hold downs over the top of the vat, was that another accessory, was that footage from a different printer or do those hold downs come with the new vat?
The new vat I suggested works with the hold-down system of the Photon Mono. The thumbscrews stay attached to the printer and the vat usually has small indents for the ends of the screws to seat into.
Just got mine for my birthday as a gift from my husband. Waiting on the test print to finish now. Will definitely get the replacement vat so I have something on hand, but for now the plastic one will do.
how do I go about designing my own parts, I used a 3d printer in my job 14 years ago and I used solid works to design parts, what do you use to design your own parts on this printer ??? , thanks phil
I use both sketchup and Fusion360. I’m actually transitioning from sketchup to Fision360 because I find fusion360 to be much more powerful
I've been looking into starting 3D printing and this model keeps popping up. Thanks to your review I believe this is the best choice for me. Thank you for helping me decide
Thanks for watching!
How bad is the smell of the resin? I have family that are pretty sensitive to smell (can't walk in the garden poison/chemical section of a big box store without getting a headache).
Definitely noticeable when you are actively working with the resin, i.e. pouring it in, cleaning prints, etc. But the smell isn’t noticeable when the lid is on the printer.
Proprietary consumables have no place in 2021 3D printing
I agree
Hey where did you purchase the aluminium vat?
Here is a link for you: amzn.to/38MacXI
Anti masker alert! ;)
How you made those miniatures look soo smooth? I have my Photon Mono for three weeks and every print i made is in lines and steps clearly visible , they look just ugly 😔
Hmmm. Not sure. Are you sure anti-aliasing is enabled? I can’t even remember if that is an option. I honestly printed with whatever default settings came in lychee slicer.
Maybe its the temperature, ideal its 25 degree i read
I tried changing the fep today on mine, having no idea the frame for the fep was glued together, I broke it. I wish I’d seen your video yesterday.
Luckily there are replacement options out there!
Would you recommend this to a beginner? I don't know anything about 3d printers and I'm considering this one.
This one is just as good as all the others. Check out my review of the Voxelab Proxima. It is also a great printer and it is much cheaper than the Anycubic
Does anyone know the speed difference between this and the color Anycubin Photon? I've got the color and was wondering if it's worth the upgrade. I know I can upgrade the screen in mine, but it's a real faff with the chance of breaking something, and the mono seems pretty cheap now.
Exposure speed on the mono is 2-3 seconds compared to the 7-8 seconds exposure on the standard photon. That doesn’t mean that the mono prints 2-3 times faster though. There is a lot of time spent lifting and repositioning the build plate, so I would say the mono is probably 20-30% faster than the standard. If I were you, I would use what you have until the lcd goes out, then consider upgrading at that point. Happy printing!
@@SouthpawWorkshop I know that some printers allow you to change the firmware to make the up/down movements faster. Does this mono have that possibility?
You can change those settings to a certain degree in Chitubox. I know some people heave experimented with pushing the limits of speed on these machines, but I prefer to keep my speed stock because the faster you move the platform, the higher the chance of print failure. So to answer your question, yes you can speed it up in the slicer and possibly push it even farther with firmware changes, but the law of diminishing returns applies prominently in this case. Good luck!
@@SouthpawWorkshop Thanks. I appreciate the reply.
how about the fumes? is there a vent on this unit? as of now, that is my main concern for this unit. Thanks!
I prefer mine without the vent. As long as the lid is on, no fumes will escape. When post processing, I wear an organic vapor mask to deal not only with the resin vapor, but also the alcohol vapors. Once the lid is back on or the resin is back in the bottle, the smell goes away rather quickly. I think the vents are a bit of a gimmick, in my opinion.
Thank you! This is exactly the type of honest review I was looking for.
Thanks for watching!