Just used this tool for the first time yesterday and dare I say it was a pleasure making my inverted double flares, now I can tell my friends I'm a machinist I have a machining die to form metal, great addition to the resume
Game changing tool-plus the people at Titan are very very responsive. I had a problem with the blank that sets the depth of the brake line-and they took care of it fast. Thanks for watching
After reading the 1200 reviews on Amazon, I went ahead and purchased one. Then watched this video and felt like I made a wise choice. Thanks for sharing your time on using this tool. I'm currently rebuilding and restoring a 47' Dodge Deluxe, and this tool will save me hours of frustration.
Made a great choice, wish this great tool was made in the US.....Seems there is little choice to where things are made. BUT this is a great tool and will make you look like a pro.
Got mine today and it works amazing. I took a few scrap pieces and every one looked the same and looked like a factory job. I needed the 1/4 inch one, but after seeing how it works I will be ordering the 3/16 one as well. Last year (01 Alero) I tried the other types and it was extremely hard to keep the die square on the tube causing a bulge on one side and eventually broke the cheap die. It was an exercise in frustration that ended up with compression fittings just to get to my mechanic. This year I got a 90 C1500 that needs a rear brake line and I will be doing it myself thanks to this. If you were like me and tried the cheap ones and had a bad experience and are leery of spending the money... do it. You wont be disappointed.
Great video! Working on a rebuild project and have struggled with the generic kits! Your video is the only good one I can find that showed a good after result! Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Thank You So Much for the information, we’ve been struggling like crazy to flare some 1/4 inch stainless brake lines in chassis and hopefully will succeed with your information that you provided in your videos … just orderd this tool . Will keep you posted . Make It A Great Day Everyone ❤️🙏✌🏼
I bought a cheap bar-type tool first. It damaged the pipes and took about three attempts to produce a half decent flare. Then I bought one of these - flipping brilliant.
Couldn't agree more, I used to really hate to doing brake lines because of the double flare-but Titan does make the job lots easier.. thanks for watching
@@haparoundthehouse6618 It worked like a charm. The first one looked a little sketchy then I realize I forgot to use the lube. After that perfect flares every time. Thanks.
Thanks. Looks like exactly what I need. 95 dodge caravan and a Plymouth. Been going nuts. The Button adapter from napa doesn't do it for me. That was so good, yep. I subscribed!!!
Thanks! I’ve been trying to use the autozone rental tool and the die keeps wanting to get cockeyed on the line after a few turns! This looks fail proof!
Got my 1/4" version yesterday. Tried it on a regular steel line and it worked perfect. I could NEVER get anything but a single flare with the cheap style. And that was on the softer copper alloy line. The cheap ones just pushed the steel ones back out of the die. It's your life, spend a little more and get the real thing. I ordered mine at Oreillys auto parts online.
Any type of forcing screw tool benefits greatly if you lube the threads! I'd add a bit of grease to the threads . Secondly, Dremell makes a pointy cone shaped bit that works perfectly for deburring the inside of a 3/16 line! I keep one in every brake tool I own! My next hydraulic flaring kit will be the Mastercool set!
Thank you so much for the very well done video! I will be replacing a small section of brake line on my F250 that's very hard to get to. Back behind the fuel tank. This will save the day! Thank you!!
I bought one and it arrived yesterday. I have tried to make a flare on a new set of brake lines with the standard double flare in the vice tool and each time it has leaked. I hope this puts an end to my leak problem
thank you for posting this video after watching your video I went online and purchased the same one and I will say this tool is amazing and easy to use just like you said and I was hoping it would do bubble flares and it dose the tool is amazing and your video helped me choose the right flaring tool for me thank you
A though, locked down in the mid west-I have plenty of time to do an updated 1/4" video-send the tool I will get some 1/4 line and shoot another video. Your flare tool is the best I've used.
Love this flaring tool i will say this is by far the best and easiest to use and this video from this gentleman helped me decide to purchase this flaring tool.
There are much better tools on the market, and the time they save more than makes up for the cost difference. I really like the design of the Rever brake flaring tool, I bought mine on Amazon for less than a hundred bucks.
Mine had a note stuck to the bag saying thumb tighten only. It only has like 1 thread on it, and you take it back off after you tighten the 2 bolts enough to hold the tube. They probably had to make it very clear not to over tighten it. If you are doing it on the car I would day for sure clean the line to avoid getting the tool dirty. It's much easier in a vice.
Thanks wasn't sure had to flip the punch over and run that in now I have to go back redo all my brake lines. I thought other side was for different flare
@@haparoundthehouse6618 Had to come back and look at this video again need to do some more brake lines. I forgot again have to run the die in on both sides to get the double flare. I now use a battery impact gun with 1/4" socket adaptor run those screws in and out and the die works great.
Are use the one that you get for free rental at different auto parts store, and I wasted seven hours! I watched seven different videos did tons of practice with pieces of tube and it still didn’t work. But I know I have to buy this one because it’s worth the money. Thanks.
This is the first time trying to flare a line for my clutch line. I bought one for 1/4 line and it will not hold the brake line still. I used my caliper to check, I am trying to flare 1/4 inch line. and idk if the fittings are supposed to be slightly loose as well, but they are, it seems where they meet though it should hold once its flared. 3/16 fittings don't go over the line. I'm confused. edit: I guess my clutch line is 6mm so slightly smaller than 1/4
Bet it won't work for a 6MM even though I've never tried. Could you put some steel wool in the clamping area to apply pressure to hold it still so you can make the flare? good luck
@@haparoundthehouse6618 Beware - the first press does NOT make a proper DIN-style bubble flare. It looks a bit like it, but it's not formed the same way and cannot safely be used in place of a true bubble flare as it does not have the same strength. If you need a bubble flare that can take brake line pressures, you need to use the proper DIN flare version of this tool.
The best flare I got with this tool has a tiny little spiral on the outside almost like a tread is that suppose to happen or did I get a faulty too...I made about 20 or 30 practice flares!!!
Dumb question: Can I flare lines that are not exactly perfectly straight? I have some already flared and connectwd lines on my master cylinder but they are leaking. I want to buy this tool and simply make new flares on those lines instead of ordering and waiting for new lines to arrive. Is that a good option
as long as the line has a portion straight enough to go into the clam shell-I haven't tried that, but if it were my car I would definitely give it a shot
You MUST use grease on them so as not to wear out the die and you must make sure the mating faces are clean and aligned when clamping the hose for flaring otherwise the flare can end up lop sided/ off centre
Now was that the bubble flare?? Or double flare. I see that bubble flare is used at master cylinder...but at line to line connection it looks like regular flare
Beware - the first press does NOT make a proper DIN-style bubble flare. It looks a bit like it, but it's not formed the same way and cannot safely be used in place of a true bubble flare as it does not have the same strength. If you need a bubble flare that can take brake line pressures, you need to use the proper DIN flare version of this tool.
Dude dont forget chamfering the lines tip,chamfering helps alot,theres a guy on here by the name of "repairs101 did a video about line flaring and the 'step on chamfering really helped out
The one drawback of this tool is that you'll need more than 2 inches of straight line when using it on a vehicle. In many cases a line will snap off at the fitting close to a bend. You need the length of a new fitting plus 2 inches to fit the tool in front of any bend or obstruction. So, while a good tool it's not perfect. Nice demo.
I own the BGS branded version of the tool (seems identical except for the handle) and did successfully flare standard 4,75mm steel brake line with it, I have only made two flares so far though.
I've used the Draper brand version of this tool to flare both steel and copper lines, and they all worked perfectly. The first one I tried was literally the very first flare I'd ever made, to repair an OEM steel line that had sheared off when I tried to unscrew the tube nut from the rubber brake hose, and it was so easy it was almost silly. If you can't make perfect flares with this every time in steel, cunifer or copper, then either you're not using it properly or you're not prepping the end of the line properly after you cut it.
I did 4 bubble flares with this with no issues. But then the line started to slip backwards at flare 5. Just doesn't seem to hold the line tightly. Also the handle cracked from all the force.
You need the DIN flare version of the same tool. Looks exactly the same but uses a different punch and the line needs to be set to a different depth too.
I would give it a shot! $40 over the otc flaring kits that will give you endless troubles from $60-200 I just bought this titan kit today and my first test I became an instant pro after trying to use 3 different branded flaring tools
@@wingshit2884 i hate the little bar tools they always break with stainless lines but i don't wanna drop $300 on an eastwood or summit racing tool that I'll use once or twice. Gonna give this a shot will report back.
@@DingDongDrift that was my exact issue aswell with the bubbles coming out on a angle, this tool is a keeper. This thing is exactly like the handheld Eastwood I was thinking about going for
Yes stainless is OK. The only thing with stainless is be sure to lube the punches liberally as stainless is harder. This will help minimize wear on the punches that make your flares. GO SLOW forming your flares too. Thanks for watching-this is a great tool.
[A search of the comments for 'steel' returned nothing. (??) so...] have to confirm: does this work for steel/stainless steel lines? Incidentally, I don't know about the lube, but I suspect a few drops of brake fluid will do the job.
@@ipissed Braw, stainless is a alloy that is very hard on dies/tools/saws. There is a reason when using a shear you can cut 16g carbon steel and only 20g stainless. . And yes there is high carbon steels and tool steels that are increasingly hard and difficult to machine. But those are not what brake lines are made of.
@@haparoundthehouse6618 The reason you need a specialized tool for stainless lines is not because it is harder, it is the opposite. It is because stainless is thicker walled and more malleable. Stay in school kid.
You should be able to look at the mating surface between the flare and fitting after you snug the fitting down-There will be marks from metal on metal-this will tell what is going on. I can't tell you why your brake hose/cylinder is leaking.
@@haparoundthehouse6618guys i found out by watching another persons video on "making flares "that what i was doing wrong was that i was not making the inner flar cone wall deep enough in shape and so it wasnt catching on completely on to the 'brake hose's'inner convex cone ,i made the 'brake line' flare wall deeper and no leaks great👍
@@kaloosh2639 Yep, an easy cheat is to keep the end of a factory flare that comes on the brake line and compare to your flare during the flaring process. Nice tool though-thanks for the comment
A lot of choice sentence enhancers when "using" (struggling with) the bar type. Can try setting up for 15 minutes and still end up with trash. Just like bad information is worse than no information, a bad tool is worse than no tool.
ALL tubing ends must be de-burred and blown through with compressed air. It would surprise an accident investigator why a brake system failed because a disregarded "chip" broke loose and worked it's way through a caliper seal. Do you understand how much psi fluid force is behind a hydraulic system?
Great tool, but it's only 3/16 & 4.75. The old style has all the familiar sizes in one tool for roughly the same price. Just sayin'. That depth preset is absolute genius, though! They need to do a bar shaped one with all the sizes, that's the ticket!
The whole point is that this particular style of flaring tool is specifically intended for using on the vehicle, so it's got the smallest possible profile to enable it to be used in really tight spots (and the handle can be unscrewed if you need it to work in a VERY tight space) - the tradeoff is that each version of the tool only handles one size of line, because if it handled more, it would have to be physically larger. The bar type tools *might* fit on the vehicle, or they might not, and they also have a reputation for working less reliably unless you spend on a real quality set that will easily cost way more than the Titan type.
The old style never worked for me. This worked perfect the first time on black steel for me when the old style would only push the steel line back out or make single flairs. I am using the 1/4" tool.
I have done many many flares with out deburring the line-zero have cracked. But if you like deburring a 3/16 line, I can't see any harm in it. Thank you for the comment and watching
Make sure you are stopping when it bottoms out. You can feel the resistance. Though I doubt it will go any further anyway, The old style would keep cranking and probably crack them.
Not all that important in this demo video, but for novices, just starting out, and for a more complete instruction, it could be of major benefit to remind them to put the fittings on the line in the correct orientation BEFORE flaring the ends. More cutting and flaring practice isn't so bad, until the line is too short to fit, that is...Nice job, otherwise
if only putting the fitting on BEFORE flaring was a novice problem. lt happens every once in a while or putting the fitting on backwards. thanks for watching
You are 100% right. Using the old style double flare is unnecessarily difficult. Just get one of these and you will work much faster with out all the swearing that annoys neighbors. Thanks for commenting
@@stripecatflippangitnamecha8721 I just started the putting ads on the channel. Was it a pain in the ass to watch? Thanks for the comment and you are going to love the flare tool it is one of the best improvement to a tool I have used.
@@haparoundthehouse6618 No... most you tube Videos have ads..... They dont worry me. Speaking of the Tool yup Everything ok no leak. I think in Summer i do the other Line its kind a rusty. the tool is good and everything went easy specially flaring under the car. Thank God. This Tool is 5x better compare to old way
Ferramenta de alargamento duplo Titan 3/16 "-https: //amzn.to/2SCXpii ou (US $ 5 MAIS BARATO) Ferramenta de alargamento duplo Capri 3/16-https: //amzn.to/3kiYYxa (Titan e Capri são a mesma ferramenta, nomes diferentes)
Hey, they say this tool is good for steel tubing, which is the one you are demonstrating on, but it is no good for copper tubing. Please do a demo with the copper tubing to prove they are wrong, ok ?
not a bad idea-of course copper is softer and will form much easier-i did do a video on stainless steel line-ruclips.net/video/wpTYIZB4ZyI/видео.html thanks for watching
I just did a video of making a complete flare in 1 minute ruclips.net/video/Al3R7Piu_FQ/видео.html -I and my son have made dozens and dozens of d-flares with no real problems. . Lets see if I can help. To trouble shoot your issue (this is more than likely a simple problem) After making a straight cut in the tubing then setting depth what does the bubble flare look like using opt1 side of the die? . Then what does you double flare look like using the other end of the die? . Is your line cracking? Smashing? . Things I ran into was not tightening the clamshell to hold the line tight-not enough lube-not going in order with the bubble/double side of the die. Hope this helps, I am not an auto mechanic-but reluctantly work on cars and this tool (for me) is way way better than the block style flare tools.. lf this doesn't help solve the issue let me know
@@haparoundthehouse6618 for me the die wore out quickly even when using plenty of die lubricant. First 10 or so flares looked good but they progressively got worse over time
@@Surge7 That sucks-just for fun take a hand file and run it over the die, it should not be able to scratch it as the die is hardened steel. Sounds like your die wasn't hardened. Contact Titan and they will make it right-I have worked with them.
Just used this tool for the first time yesterday and dare I say it was a pleasure making my inverted double flares, now I can tell my friends I'm a machinist I have a machining die to form metal, great addition to the resume
Game changing tool-plus the people at Titan are very very responsive. I had a problem with the blank that sets the depth of the brake line-and they took care of it fast. Thanks for watching
After reading the 1200 reviews on Amazon, I went ahead and purchased one. Then watched this video and felt like I made a wise choice. Thanks for sharing your time on using this tool. I'm currently rebuilding and restoring a 47' Dodge Deluxe, and this tool will save me hours of frustration.
Made a great choice, wish this great tool was made in the US.....Seems there is little choice to where things are made. BUT this is a great tool and will make you look like a pro.
Got mine today and it works amazing. I took a few scrap pieces and every one looked the same and looked like a factory job. I needed the 1/4 inch one, but after seeing how it works I will be ordering the 3/16 one as well. Last year (01 Alero) I tried the other types and it was extremely hard to keep the die square on the tube causing a bulge on one side and eventually broke the cheap die. It was an exercise in frustration that ended up with compression fittings just to get to my mechanic. This year I got a 90 C1500 that needs a rear brake line and I will be doing it myself thanks to this. If you were like me and tried the cheap ones and had a bad experience and are leery of spending the money... do it. You wont be disappointed.
very true titan is a great tool
Great video! Working on a rebuild project and have struggled with the generic kits! Your video is the only good one I can find that showed a good after result! Thanks for taking the time to make this!
The tool is great-a lot less cussing....Thanks for the comment
Thank You So Much for the information, we’ve been struggling like crazy to flare some 1/4 inch stainless brake lines in chassis and hopefully will succeed with your information that you provided in your videos … just orderd this tool . Will keep you posted . Make It A Great Day Everyone ❤️🙏✌🏼
I had good luck with SS-hope it turns out good
I just bought a flaring tool from Amazon, and the "OP1" is pointed at the wrong end! Good thing I watched your video.
sounds like there is very strict quality control at the factory-thanks for watching
I bought a cheap bar-type tool first. It damaged the pipes and took about three attempts to produce a half decent flare. Then I bought one of these - flipping brilliant.
Couldn't agree more, I used to really hate to doing brake lines because of the double flare-but Titan does make the job lots easier..
thanks for watching
Perfect I just bought this tool and this is exactly what I needed
you will love it-and Titan's service is excellent
Thank you. I just ordered one after 8 failed attempts with the regular crap flare tool that the auto parts store loans out.
You will love the Titan-it makes everyone look like they know what they are doing....Thanks for watching
@@haparoundthehouse6618 It worked like a charm. The first one looked a little sketchy then I realize I forgot to use the lube. After that perfect flares every time. Thanks.
@@RossWilliamsDC Awesome tool. Light years ahead of the old style. Thanks again for watching.
Yep all mine leaked, the tool is from China and makes off center flares, I'm getting this one.
Thanks. Looks like exactly what I need. 95 dodge caravan and a Plymouth. Been going nuts. The Button adapter from napa doesn't do it for me.
That was so good, yep. I subscribed!!!
The block style flare tool is terrible-you'll like the titan. Works like a dream. thanks for watching
Thanks! I’ve been trying to use the autozone rental tool and the die keeps wanting to get cockeyed on the line after a few turns! This looks fail proof!
Titan makes a solid product-you will wonder why you didn't buy one BEFORE attempting the old block style that are garbage.
Got my 1/4" version yesterday. Tried it on a regular steel line and it worked perfect. I could NEVER get anything but a single flare with the cheap style. And that was on the softer copper alloy line. The cheap ones just pushed the steel ones back out of the die. It's your life, spend a little more and get the real thing. I ordered mine at Oreillys auto parts online.
great tool-you will shave loads of time off a project and cut the amount of swearing by 90%+
I just bought the 3/16 one at O'Reillys today I know it's going to work better than the cheap ones
Any type of forcing screw tool benefits greatly if you lube the threads! I'd add a bit of grease to the threads . Secondly, Dremell makes a pointy cone shaped bit that works perfectly for deburring the inside of a 3/16 line! I keep one in every brake tool I own! My next hydraulic flaring kit will be the Mastercool set!
all great advice
Nice demo! I appreciate you taking the time to creat this. Thank you!
Hope it helps making better brake lines.
Perfect tutorial. You almost made want to get those wrenches you have.
Having the right tools makes it easy-
great video.on point.no unnecessary talking.thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you so much for the very well done video! I will be replacing a small section of brake line on my F250 that's very hard to get to. Back behind the fuel tank. This will save the day!
Thank you!!
glad i could help-GREAT tool
I bought one and it arrived yesterday. I have tried to make a flare on a new set of brake lines with the standard double flare in the vice tool and each time it has leaked. I hope this puts an end to my leak problem
From my experience this tool will make brake lines much easier. thanks for watching
Thank god I found this video. Great video
I'll tell you, this makes doing brake lines so much easier-
This tool is guaranteed to reduce swearing by 95%.
thanks for watching
thank you for posting this video after watching your video I went online and purchased the same one and I will say this tool is amazing and easy to use just like you said and I was hoping it would do bubble flares and it dose the tool is amazing and your video helped me choose the right flaring tool for me thank you
Glad it helped and you just bought the best and easiest double flare tool I have ever used.
Thanks for watching
What a great demo and review! (We're blushing!) Thanks!
Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@@haparoundthehouse6618 We've just started shipping the 51515 1/4" version. :)
@@titantools4976 Can't wait til I need to do some 1/4" lines-I will have to pick one up.
Your products are the best!
A though, locked down in the mid west-I have plenty of time to do an updated 1/4" video-send the tool I will get some 1/4 line and shoot another video.
Your flare tool is the best I've used.
Love this flaring tool i will say this is by far the best and easiest to use and this video from this gentleman helped me decide to purchase this flaring tool.
this is a fine tool but the lisle 33260 does 3/16 - 1/4 lines on the same tool. $ 85.00. I just got one and its great,
nice tool-
Make a demonstration of nickel-copper line because many have complained that proper flare cannot be achieved
Steel is harder than copper nickel so I can't see it failing.
@@tomf4547 It fails dramatically especaily with thicker Autozone pipe.
thanks for watching
There are much better tools on the market, and the time they save more than makes up for the cost difference. I really like the design of the Rever brake flaring tool, I bought mine on Amazon for less than a hundred bucks.
this is a great tool and will make you look like a pro.
Good suggestion about not tightening the locator guide....I could see where you could definitely damage those threads
The threads are really delicate-but man does that tool work great. So easy.
Thanks for watching-happy new year
Mine had a note stuck to the bag saying thumb tighten only. It only has like 1 thread on it, and you take it back off after you tighten the 2 bolts enough to hold the tube. They probably had to make it very clear not to over tighten it. If you are doing it on the car I would day for sure clean the line to avoid getting the tool dirty. It's much easier in a vice.
This tool makes lines much easier
Thank you much waiting for it to come today. And I look you up or found you on RUclips. Thank you for demonstrating it's much appreciated
great tool-make brake lines much easier
Thanks wasn't sure had to flip the punch over and run that in now I have to go back redo all my brake lines. I thought other side was for different flare
Pretty awesome tool. Even with the redo this tool makes brake lines as easy as swapping brake pads.
Thanks for watching
@@haparoundthehouse6618 Had to come back and look at this video again need to do some more brake lines. I forgot again have to run the die in on both sides to get the double flare. I now use a battery impact gun with 1/4" socket adaptor run those screws in and out and the die works great.
@@Mike-01234 That's a good idea-I will have to give the impact a try next time-
It comes with instructions now that take you on a step by step. It tells you when to flip it on the last step.
Are use the one that you get for free rental at different auto parts store, and I wasted seven hours! I watched seven different videos did tons of practice with pieces of tube and it still didn’t work. But I know I have to buy this one because it’s worth the money. Thanks.
the traditional style flare tools are horrible.
The titan is a great tool-will have you making good flares in minutes
Thankyou so much for this video helped me out a lot.
Pete from the uk
Glad the video helped-thanks for watching-
The titan is a great tool.
This is the first time trying to flare a line for my clutch line. I bought one for 1/4 line and it will not hold the brake line still. I used my caliper to check, I am trying to flare 1/4 inch line. and idk if the fittings are supposed to be slightly loose as well, but they are, it seems where they meet though it should hold once its flared. 3/16 fittings don't go over the line. I'm confused.
edit: I guess my clutch line is 6mm so slightly smaller than 1/4
Bet it won't work for a 6MM even though I've never tried.
Could you put some steel wool in the clamping area to apply pressure to hold it still so you can make the flare?
good luck
So does this make a bubble flare as well as a double bubble flare. Cheers.
yes, it makes a bubble with the first die press, then a double flare with the 2nd die press-great tool
@@haparoundthehouse6618 Beware - the first press does NOT make a proper DIN-style bubble flare. It looks a bit like it, but it's not formed the same way and cannot safely be used in place of a true bubble flare as it does not have the same strength. If you need a bubble flare that can take brake line pressures, you need to use the proper DIN flare version of this tool.
The best flare I got with this tool has a tiny little spiral on the outside almost like a tread is that suppose to happen or did I get a faulty too...I made about 20 or 30 practice flares!!!
No idea-does you die have an imperfection?
Dumb question: Can I flare lines that are not exactly perfectly straight? I have some already flared and connectwd lines on my master cylinder but they are leaking. I want to buy this tool and simply make new flares on those lines instead of ordering and waiting for new lines to arrive. Is that a good option
as long as the line has a portion straight enough to go into the clam shell-I haven't tried that, but if it were my car I would definitely give it a shot
@@haparoundthehouse6618 thanks, friend👍👍
Excellent tool buy it straight away
It is a great tool, used to hate double flares-not any more.
You MUST use grease on them so as not to wear out the die and you must make sure the mating faces are clean and aligned when clamping the hose for flaring otherwise the flare can end up lop sided/ off centre
yes, all good points thanks for watching
It comes with die grease. I used some on the die and a little on the threads. It can't be misaligned like the cheap bar ones.
Now was that the bubble flare?? Or double flare. I see that bubble flare is used at master cylinder...but at line to line connection it looks like regular flare
bubble flare is the first flare-double flare is last flare
@@haparoundthehouse6618 thank you
Beware - the first press does NOT make a proper DIN-style bubble flare. It looks a bit like it, but it's not formed the same way and cannot safely be used in place of a true bubble flare as it does not have the same strength. If you need a bubble flare that can take brake line pressures, you need to use the proper DIN flare version of this tool.
Did they make only 1 size 3/16? I need more size tool for hvac
There is a 1/4" it works great but its geared to brake lines-thanks for watching
This tool is great... Thanks for the tip. I have not yet used it on NI-Cop line but was amazing on Steel so far.
Much better than the traditional flare tool.
Thanks for watching
Dude dont forget chamfering the lines tip,chamfering helps alot,theres a guy on here by the name of "repairs101 did a video about line flaring and the 'step on chamfering really helped out
ruclips.net/video/wpTYIZB4ZyI/видео.html
Just ordered one.
great tool
The one drawback of this tool is that you'll need more than 2 inches of straight line when using it on a vehicle. In many cases a line will snap off at the fitting close to a bend. You need the length of a new fitting plus 2 inches to fit the tool in front of any bend or obstruction. So, while a good tool it's not perfect. Nice demo.
True, I have yet to run into that-but yes it requires a some line.
Thanks for watching
hi is that possible to flare a metal line?
i flared metal line in the video
It's ONLY intended to flare metal lines - steel, cupro-nickel and copper.
Got a version of this tool. Took about 6 attempts to get good glares.
I'm not so sure it would flare steel.
Some people do seem to have a problem using this tool-I have flared every material with it including SS. Works wonderfully
I own the BGS branded version of the tool (seems identical except for the handle) and did successfully flare standard 4,75mm steel brake line with it, I have only made two flares so far though.
So much better than the block style flare tools
I've used the Draper brand version of this tool to flare both steel and copper lines, and they all worked perfectly. The first one I tried was literally the very first flare I'd ever made, to repair an OEM steel line that had sheared off when I tried to unscrew the tube nut from the rubber brake hose, and it was so easy it was almost silly. If you can't make perfect flares with this every time in steel, cunifer or copper, then either you're not using it properly or you're not prepping the end of the line properly after you cut it.
What's it look like with the fitting on it?
The titan makes a double flare that looks exactly like the flare that comes on new brake lines. Thanks for watching.
Thanks man I really appreciate your video.
Glad it helped
Is NiCop brake line too soft for this tool?
nope-i have yet to run into any line that wont take a double flare-even stainless can be used with the titan-thanks for watching
I regularly use it to flare copper line, which is softer than nickel-copper, and it works perfectly.
Thanks you it save me from reading the instructions
great tool
I did 4 bubble flares with this with no issues. But then the line started to slip backwards at flare 5. Just doesn't seem to hold the line tightly. Also the handle cracked from all the force.
I have talked to the titan company a few times-give them a call, they will work with you.
Makes me wonder if the tubing could be different diameters from the manufacturer.
@@jamescole3152 100%-who knows where the line is made-quality has been out of fashion for decades
Gotta shown how to make bubble flares
You need the DIN flare version of the same tool. Looks exactly the same but uses a different punch and the line needs to be set to a different depth too.
thanks for watching
Will this do stainless lines?
I would give it a shot! $40 over the otc flaring kits that will give you endless troubles from $60-200 I just bought this titan kit today and my first test I became an instant pro after trying to use 3 different branded flaring tools
@@wingshit2884 i hate the little bar tools they always break with stainless lines but i don't wanna drop $300 on an eastwood or summit racing tool that I'll use once or twice. Gonna give this a shot will report back.
@@DingDongDrift that was my exact issue aswell with the bubbles coming out on a angle, this tool is a keeper. This thing is exactly like the handheld Eastwood I was thinking about going for
@@wingshit2884 just ordered it from summit, was only $37, thanks for this video it was great
Yes stainless is OK. The only thing with stainless is be sure to lube the punches liberally as stainless is harder. This will help minimize wear on the punches that make your flares. GO SLOW forming your flares too.
Thanks for watching-this is a great tool.
[A search of the comments for 'steel' returned nothing. (??) so...] have to confirm: does this work for steel/stainless steel lines? Incidentally, I don't know about the lube, but I suspect a few drops of brake fluid will do the job.
I would give it a shot. But I would use the lube provided as the die will be under additional stress as SS is harder than carbon steel.
@@haparoundthehouse6618 You got it backwards dude. Higher carbon means more hardness.
@@ipissed Braw, stainless is a alloy that is very hard on dies/tools/saws. There is a reason when using a shear you can cut 16g carbon steel and only 20g stainless.
.
And yes there is high carbon steels and tool steels that are increasingly hard and difficult to machine. But those are not what brake lines are made of.
@@haparoundthehouse6618 The reason you need a specialized tool for stainless lines is not because it is harder, it is the opposite. It is because stainless is thicker walled and more malleable. Stay in school kid.
ruclips.net/video/wpTYIZB4ZyI/видео.html
Thanks mate!
Your welcome, get one of these and you will wonder why you didn't have one years ago. Makes running lines EASY.
why not a 1/4 '' tool also???
Titan does sell a 1/4" double flare-perhaps I should pick one up and do a review. I would imagine it works as food as this one.
THanks for the comment
@@haparoundthehouse6618 i can't find one this style only standard which is to bulky... thanks
@@roadstar499 Here is a Titan 51515 1/4-Inch Double Flaring Tool amzn.to/3bZpokN
Has anyone used this for double flares on stainless lines?
titan SS doubleflare video ruclips.net/video/wpTYIZB4ZyI/видео.html
thank you for watching
Смазываете не только кончик, но и резьбу!
Не страшная идея
Thank you i just order this
great tool
Used it and flare it completely the same my lines still leak,dont know whats wrong,new brake hose and cyclinder still leaks
You should be able to look at the mating surface between the flare and fitting after you snug the fitting down-There will be marks from metal on metal-this will tell what is going on.
I can't tell you why your brake hose/cylinder is leaking.
Make sure the car you are working on takes a 45 degree double flare and not a Bubble flare.
@@americawhereareyou true
@@haparoundthehouse6618guys i found out by watching another persons video on "making flares "that what i was doing wrong was that i was not making the inner flar cone wall deep enough in shape and so it wasnt catching on completely on to the 'brake hose's'inner convex cone ,i made the 'brake line' flare wall deeper and no leaks great👍
@@kaloosh2639 Yep, an easy cheat is to keep the end of a factory flare that comes on the brake line and compare to your flare during the flaring process.
Nice tool though-thanks for the comment
I really hope who ever invented this, got PAID.
CANT TELL you how much i hated trying to flare brake lines , only for the flare to be off and leak .
It's a great tool.
Thanks for the comment
Mine doesn't. It creases the bottom of the OPT 1 flare. This is the second tool too.
sounds odd-i have yet to have any problems, i would make sure depth is set propperly
My flares were creasing when there was too much pipe into the tool.... Check the stop bolt.
Also sold by eastwood.
true
A lot of choice sentence enhancers when "using" (struggling with) the bar type. Can try setting up for 15 minutes and still end up with trash. Just like bad information is worse than no information, a bad tool is worse than no tool.
This tool works very good-I hate the old style for the same reason you do
Nice review. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment
SOLD!
you will not regret it thanks for watching
ALL tubing ends must be de-burred and blown through with compressed air. It would surprise an accident investigator why a brake system failed because a disregarded "chip" broke loose and worked it's way through a caliper seal. Do you understand how much psi fluid force is behind a hydraulic system?
to each their own-here is a video on hydraulic pressure ruclips.net/video/TbOS8sXI8Jg/видео.html
@@haparoundthehouse6618Pride filled arguments are for fools. Do your own lessons learned.
@@stur.7502 Seemingly this statement applies to you.
Great tool, but it's only 3/16 & 4.75. The old style has all the familiar sizes in one tool for roughly the same price. Just sayin'. That depth preset is absolute genius, though! They need to do a bar shaped one with all the sizes, that's the ticket!
agreed-more sizes would be great
The whole point is that this particular style of flaring tool is specifically intended for using on the vehicle, so it's got the smallest possible profile to enable it to be used in really tight spots (and the handle can be unscrewed if you need it to work in a VERY tight space) - the tradeoff is that each version of the tool only handles one size of line, because if it handled more, it would have to be physically larger. The bar type tools *might* fit on the vehicle, or they might not, and they also have a reputation for working less reliably unless you spend on a real quality set that will easily cost way more than the Titan type.
The old style never worked for me. This worked perfect the first time on black steel for me when the old style would only push the steel line back out or make single flairs. I am using the 1/4" tool.
If you don’t demurred the line after cutting it,it can crack.
I have done many many flares with out deburring the line-zero have cracked. But if you like deburring a 3/16 line, I can't see any harm in it.
Thank you for the comment and watching
Make sure you are stopping when it bottoms out. You can feel the resistance. Though I doubt it will go any further anyway, The old style would keep cranking and probably crack them.
Not all that important in this demo video, but for novices, just starting out, and for a more complete instruction, it could be of major benefit to remind them to put the fittings on the line in the correct orientation BEFORE flaring the ends. More cutting and flaring practice isn't so bad, until the line is too short to fit, that is...Nice job, otherwise
if only putting the fitting on BEFORE flaring was a novice problem. lt happens every once in a while or putting the fitting on backwards. thanks for watching
I am buying this, other tools so hard to flare under the car
You are 100% right. Using the old style double flare is unnecessarily difficult.
Just get one of these and you will work much faster with out all the swearing that annoys neighbors.
Thanks for commenting
@@haparoundthehouse6618 It is very true, thanks for the Demo. I hope you make more money from ads, You have ads while I was watching your video.
@@stripecatflippangitnamecha8721 I just started the putting ads on the channel. Was it a pain in the ass to watch?
Thanks for the comment and you are going to love the flare tool it is one of the best improvement to a tool I have used.
@@haparoundthehouse6618 No... most you tube Videos have ads..... They dont worry me. Speaking of the Tool yup Everything ok no leak. I think in Summer i do the other Line its kind a rusty. the tool is good and everything went easy specially flaring under the car. Thank God. This Tool is 5x better compare to old way
@@stripecatflippangitnamecha8721 Glad the tool worked well.
Aonde compra está feramenta
Ferramenta de alargamento duplo Titan 3/16 "-https: //amzn.to/2SCXpii
ou
(US $ 5 MAIS BARATO) Ferramenta de alargamento duplo Capri 3/16-https: //amzn.to/3kiYYxa
(Titan e Capri são a mesma ferramenta, nomes diferentes)
👍👍👍
Works great---thanks for watching
Hey, they say this tool is good for steel tubing, which is the one you are demonstrating on, but it is no good for copper tubing. Please do a demo with the copper tubing to prove they are wrong, ok ?
not a bad idea-of course copper is softer and will form much easier-i did do a video on stainless steel line-ruclips.net/video/wpTYIZB4ZyI/видео.html
thanks for watching
It will blitz copper, that's really soft.
He us not lieing i used the old school one than I used that one 100% better in all ways
great tool-thanks for watching
Debur
I did and did not debur the tubing-made no difference in the quality of the flare
This tool sucks for me. Can never get a good flare. Resorted to buying pre flared line from napa.
I just did a video of making a complete flare in 1 minute ruclips.net/video/Al3R7Piu_FQ/видео.html -I and my son have made dozens and dozens of d-flares with no real problems.
.
Lets see if I can help.
To trouble shoot your issue (this is more than likely a simple problem)
After making a straight cut in the tubing then setting depth what does the bubble flare look like using opt1 side of the die?
.
Then what does you double flare look like using the other end of the die?
.
Is your line cracking? Smashing?
.
Things I ran into was not tightening the clamshell to hold the line tight-not enough lube-not going in order with the bubble/double side of the die.
Hope this helps, I am not an auto mechanic-but reluctantly work on cars and this tool (for me) is way way better than the block style flare tools..
lf this doesn't help solve the issue let me know
@@haparoundthehouse6618 for me the die wore out quickly even when using plenty of die lubricant. First 10 or so flares looked good but they progressively got worse over time
@@Surge7 That sucks-just for fun take a hand file and run it over the die, it should not be able to scratch it as the die is hardened steel. Sounds like your die wasn't hardened.
Contact Titan and they will make it right-I have worked with them.
@@haparoundthehouse6618 will do thank you
Same here.
I bought one of these and not having much luck with it.
I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong.