When using the tubing cutter I have found never go the same direction in turning. It is best to turn than tighten and turn back the way you came. This helps if your tubing cutter is worn or not properly aligned. It will give you a more consistent cut.
Another quick way to measure the brake line diameter, put the open end of a wrench over it. A 3/16" wrench fits snugly over the 3/16" line and a 1/4" wrench fits over the 1/4" line, etc.
Eric, I just want to throw this out there: I'm a long time car guy, parts counter salesman, etc.. im no longer in the business as im an EMT now, but i started this nature of work back in 1999 and sold parts at a "mom & pop" type parts store named Congress Auto Parts in West Palm Beach up till 2008. I stayed in the business for that length of time for CUSTOMERS LIKE YOU. I enjoyed being on a 1st name basis with my "good" customers, ordered "special" parts over phone for them, etc.. I was a great asst manager and made it far with in that company and i thank customers like you cause i LEARN from them! Thanks for all the great videos and reviews... Seth
Got sick of using the older flaring tool over the years at about 60% effectiveness. Bought the Eastwood tool and the Lisle 3/16" tube bending pliers and was astounded by the effectiveness of these tools.Awesome. Best tool combination I have purchased in years. I have not made a bad flare since. Thanks for sharing Eric.
When you were talking about the other style flaring tool I said out loud "they suck!" I have a set from MAC tools and I hate it. I thought money could solve the problem by buying a nicer kit. Nope. A nicer design is in order. Especially if you work on Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep much. Let's just say their brake lines are "creative" (Frankenstein one-offs) and never in stock. I'm buying this. Take my money! There I go again...
Yeah, crap, wish I'd have had this for the other brake line jobs I've done. Just got done buying a new one of the lame type not 2 weeks ago too. Guess I'll have to hope the deal holds a while so I can save up the pennies for this.
Buyers remorse huh?... sorry man. I just ordered this tool and the 37 degree die that everyone with a choice seems to love. When Eric said it was "life changing" the part of my brain that trusts him and the part that hates flaring made a commitment to go for it. I'm excited to try it out!
sorry if anyone covered this already, but you mentioned that 37 degree flares are becoming more popular with builders for "some reason". The reason is in fact, stainless steel lines. You're supposed to use a 37 degree single flare on stainless line because of its nature to easily become damaged or split during the multiple bends required to achieve a 45 double, or even a 45 single flare. If you want the nice shiny stainless lines, you gotta do single 37 flares!
I use the Ridgid flaring tool specifically for stainless lines. It doesn't press the whole flare at once, it presses in a circle, slowly flaring as it rotates. I have this Eastwood flare tool also but I'm having issues now getting a flare that doesn't leak, and I've barely used it.
Excellent tool, and fun to use! I'm restoring an old 56 Chevy, not a full time mechanic, so I found a Vevor flaring tool, pretty much identical, for less than $100. Comes with basic dies, and tubing cutter. Does both 45* and 37*. I love it!!
Glad I found this video, I have to redo all brake and fuel lines on a CJ-7 jeep project and I was regretting using the old tool I've used before. I'll definitely give one of these a try on my next paycheck. Thanks Eric.
GREAT TOOL! But I would not throw the other flare too away, because it doesnt look like this can easily be used on the vehicle, like the other flaring tool can
I was thinking the same thing. The only disadvantage would be a job where you have to do a run from the front to back and you don't want to take the line out again once you cut it to size. But, this thing is still amazing.
EricTheCarGuy I wouldn't either. The other tool I seen time and time again was a snap on hydraulic tool, which is like $600 or something nuts like that. If I could get the hydraulic tool for $200 I would certainly get that. Ha, what you should really do is make a video on how to use that $20 flare kit. I used to work at an auto-parts store and see those things come back stripped all the time because people don't know how to use them right. One other thing I did was keep small sections of brake line in my tool box when I first started working on cars labeled with tape what size they where. Same with vacuum hoses.
If you're doing 3/16" double flares, get the ~ $35 Eastwood hand held tool It works much better than the butterfly type. It's on Eastwood's website as 31244 and Eric has also done a review on it. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html
I have been using the Master Cool hydraulic hand tool and it works great. It will do double flare, inverted flare , push connect, metric bubble, and GM transmission. All at a cost of $300.00
Could be. But currently running 7 double flared 45s that went off with no splits or fails using seamless stainless. Ends of stainless tubing need to be prepped meticulously i suppose. I used a dremel with a cone shape stone to prep the ID after using a carbide cutter to debur, and resize. Work stainless slower than steel. I was told later that double flaring stainless wasn't necessary or preffered, do to work hardening, go figure.
I think the reason they say antiseize is that they don't want lubricant anywhere near the vice that holds the tubing. A big problem with the old style flare kit is the vice loses grip and the tubing slides back a hair. This kit looks great, though I'm not sure I want to spend that much right now....
I got the cheap flaring tool years ago,out of 30 or so flares I made with it, 3/4s of them leaked.I ended up buying lines already made up! My new Eastwood tool came today,read the instructions,didn't quite understand how a bubble flare was made. Your video made it clear,thanks! The cheap flaring tool is going to the scrap metal pile!
Oh man.... I used the old style to do my Ranger once. Now that I had that experience I can justify the $200 for this upgrade. I knew about the $200 one from Eastwood, just tried to make the $60 dollar old style work. Had to remake several flares as they were off center. Spent lots of time... learned a lot about flares. Like learning to use hand tools before power tools.
AN Fittings ( believe or not stands for Army Navy ) is approved for aircraft. AN fittings use a 37 degree flare. I have been told the reason being the stainless steel will tend to crack when flared to 45 degree.
Open end wrenches are good for determining tubing size, too. In this case, though the tubing odd only going to fit into to clamping die of the proper size, so those work nicely for finding the size too. Great video!
That has to be the best flaring tool in existence. I've been using the blue point flaring kits for years with no trouble but now I see an upgrade in my future.
I've had the hydraulic one for years now and it is really nice and yes you can use it ON the vehicle. Always buy the best you can afford even if it hurts. good job Eric. I'm a fan and member
That is one well-thought-out tool! Outstanding! Eastwood: make a simple line measuring tool to include with the kit (ie - a flat piece of stock with slots cut in it in the different tube sizes that can be slipped over the line to determine its size)
I bought mine a year or two ago and love it. Brake lines are a breeze now. I got mine off of Eastwood's eBay page. They are a little less expensive there.
I was looking at buying this .I’m a 3 year aviation mechanic about to take my certifications. Im lookin to see if I can use this as I work for a flight school and our planes get ridden hard and put away wet. Oh yea and all our airframes were made in the 70,s and on up. Mostly nothing younger than 2003 😂 . Point is we have to keep these things going no matter what and they have to be safe. It’s a tall order but if you really like working on old stuff this jobs for 🫵 Anyway thanks again I’m gonna buy these tools because I can’t tell you how many hydronic lines and brake lines we have done this year. Anyway like to say thank you for this video ! It’s not just for car guys Eric ! Your helping us fly boys too! IM A LONG TIME VIEWER OF THIS CHANNEL. one of the best on you tube. Thanks Easy E ! Your a quality guy. Would love to have a beer with ya one day. Lol. See ya ✌️ Mike M . KLZU Briscoe airport Atlanta .
They work great on brake and flared lines. but I like my Mastercool Universal. 71475. Does pretty much any tubing connection type out there (trans, brakes, fuel, HVAC) and can do it on installed lines as well as on the bench. This tool is nice but being bench bound limits you in many ways. Suggestion on tubing size tool. Take a block of either hard wood or metal and drill 4 holes in it to match the tubing sizes. Or buy 4 of the fittings and couple them together.
Being able to fabricate brake lines is an awesome capability. Shops often charge a LOT of money for brake line replacement, so in places like the the Northeast it's not unusual to find used cars that are in good shape but need brake lines that are available way under KBB valuation. Spools of brake line are only +/- $25 and I tend to re-use the original fittings with no problems.
Bought the identical flare tool branded as inlinetube on Ebay from Motorcitymusclecar for $199 delivered. It arrived today. Can't wait to try it. Your video appeared the day after I ordered it. Thanks for the video!
At the 5:XX mark, you are holding the tubing pliers backwards/they are facing the wrong way. You should always have the round opening of the tool on the outside of the bend so when you bend the tubing, it sits in the curved portion of the pliers.
A proper brake flaring tool will save a lot of heart-ache. We needed to replace the ENTIRE rusted out brake line system on an old pickup truck we got that had sat for almost 10 years. My room-mate at the time took this on, and got a cheap flare tool, annnnd.... well... I believe it's still having leakage problems after 3 attempts. A good flare tool and good brake line will save you MANY HOURS of work and tracking down brake leaks that are inevitable with a cheap tool.
Recently picked up a very cheap GM wagon with rotten brake lines. I have always shied away from a car with this problem, mostly because every mechanic I have known has ruminated about what a PIA this kind of work is. I watched your vid on the Fairmont brake line replacement, and I am super appreciative of the way you approached the task. I am, as a DIY guy, ordering the Eastwood tool, yes, a lot of cash, but do it once, do it right. Still beats paying the local jerk.
I bought one of these not too long ago and its takes all the hard work out of doing brake lines - they are actually fun to flare! I've been getting away without lube, but WD-40 is good enough. After your flare, slightly loosen the blue clamp and wiggle the line - that frees it up so when you pop the pin and swing the clamp off the line is not stuck to the dies. What I like doing is removing a line off a vehicle and bending it to match and flaring new ends. This is much easier and you don't have to use that clamp too under a vehicle. Oriley Auto sells a REALLY nice hand flare tool like he shows above - it looks to be better material and has a better case. Just tell the guys you are buying and not renting, or have them order a fresh un-opened flare tool to buy. Worth every penny - everyone will want to borrow it.
Another great & informative video Eric. I have no doubt that this tool works great, is well built and well worth the price if you're doing a lot of brake lines in a shop or something. But for the DIY'er like myself (and I presume the majority of your viewers) who rarely has to flare hard lines, this tool is a little pricey. I just wouldn't be able to justify the expense for a tool I might use once a year or so. The 'clamp' style tool is available for rent from most auto parts stores for 'free' so most DIY'ers will probably gravitate towards that tool rather then a $200 tool. A video on how best to use the clamp style tool would be awesome though and probably help a lot of your viewers. Thanks.
Just from observation of the tool in the video I like the chunkiness of the load bearing parts of this flaring tool. Structual mass really helps the tool not flex and bend when using it so the tool is more precise (not to mention durable).
It's nice to see that DIN standards still do have some international meaning (since you input the "DIN" in brackets below the name "bubble"). DIN stands for "Deutsches Institut für Normung" (German Institute for Standardization) and is the standardization instance I grew up with, before there were any other standards in this place - there was a DIN standard for anything and everything ;-)
Yes, I was found the bending tool at Habor Freight and another one that is smaller that I prefer. The Eastwood flaring tool is sold under TGR brand for $180 on Amazon.
In the USA - this kit probably is a must, in Europe we are allowed to use copper pipes, therefore cheap kit is enough for any brake, fuel, autogas jobs.
suggestions for you Eric- a nice sand paper can be used for clean up the outer edge of the tubing, doing it by hand this way will help prevent taking too much off with a grinder. if you do not have a de-burring tool a heavy grit paper can also be used in the inside of that lip and just finish it off with a fine grit to get a nice clean surface. lube on the working end is necessary and will help out a lot, glad you didnt leave that out of the video. the tubing pliers you were using make an excellent solution for bending line while in place, or for things that do no have to look pretty, but a quality handheld tubing bender will be justified if appearances are important. we always used the 37.5* AN flare or a swagelok compression fitting for cryo applications- the latter also being great for creating fittings while in place or when a very small 'back-to-back' fitting is required. as always great video ! (^_-)v
I bought this tool when it was under $200 to use on my hot rod I'm building but I wound up making flares for other people before I had the need to use it for myself. I had fun "practicing"
Correction for viewers watching. The die he used has to be turned the other way for a bubble flare. What he did with OP 1 was a 45 degree single flare, which became a 45 degree inverted flare with OP 2. A bubble flare has a 90 degree, not a 45 degree. You can see the 90 degree in the other side of the die when he only has half of it installed, it will show "DIN/ISO", NOT 45, on the correct side. ruclips.net/video/UxeA1lhSCsk/видео.html
I wish I knew about this tool about 4 months ago when I had to replace my brake line on my f-150 from the rabs block to the rear. I had bought two flairing tools which were crap and then got one from K tool international. It worked OK but still could not get a consistent flair. If I have do it again I will definitely get this tool and by the way bending lines isn't fun at all especially when you have to go around things on the vehicle a certain way.
First of all, if you only have a 60-70% success rate with the hand tool, you're doing something wrong. I've been using the "Manual" flaring tool for over 40 yrs. It works just fine. Occasionally I'll get a bad flare, but no where near 30% of the time. Second, sometimes you have to flare a line that's on the vehicle, and you can't bring it to the vice. The only difference is the effort. That manual flaring tool is a pain in the but if you're replacing all the lines, and doing multiple flares, or if you're old like me and your grip isn't what it used to be.
with the tubing bender pliers, you want to hold the pliers the other way around to bend them. with the curved part of the pliers facing the bracing point of where they're being held
Yea, I actually thought about cutting that part of the video but I wanted to leave the pliers in. Perhaps at some point during a project I'll demonstrate how to use them properly. Thanks for your suggestion.
You may want to look at the sliding block style as well, The pliers work good for tight bends in close to fittings and areas like that but the other style usually are easier to use.
Just two quick comments. One is that it is unlikely that we will "deburr" a 5 or 6-foot length of tube on a bench grinder. A uniform end is not likely. I would use an "inside" and "outside" deburring tool akin to what bullet reloaders use. It is fast, uniform and clean. Second is that bending plier works better on Nicopp tubing and is an awesome tool to use while you are fitting the lines around all the obstacles along the chassis. Quick hint: use a little brake fluid on the tip of your finger over the end to be flared to ease the flaring process. Just a smear will do.
I bought one on your recommendation and love it, except... For the life of me I can't get it to form a proper double-flare with 3/8 steel line. 3/16 works flawlessly, but after more than two dozen attempts with 3/8 I've given up. I've tried various degrees of chamfering, two different brands of line and the result is always the same. ~270° of the flare end is perfect and ~90° looks only partially formed. Any ideas?
this thing is amazing. had it at my old job you can double flair a brake line in like 5 seconds once you get good with it. changed jobs where we do alot less brake lines and going back to the regular flare tool sucks. if anyone does alot of brake lines or flaring of any kind this is for you. where as you may flare a line once every 4 years then yeah just stick with the manual one
Excellent video very professional work. I had to replace the brake lines on my bmw 2005.750li they were rusted under the rear side sub frame . I had to change complete brake line from rear to front with flex hoses as well . I took the car to auto garage they said to work on this car with material you will pay 1500$ i said no thanks went to another one down the road he said 1000.$ with material because this car needs complete master cylinder flush and abs flush . I watched > Eric The Car Guy< what a great guy made it so easy and simple job. I did my car brake work it cost me 200$ Thanks to >ERIC THE CAR GUY< you are a brilliant mechanic.
Eric! Get rid of the old school steel line. Give cupro-nickle line a try, No rusting, super easy to bend. Its a bit pricey but once you use it you will never go back!
I think any demonstration of a bench grinder should include description of hazard created by grinding non ferrous materials. Great channel. I've watched a lot of your vids and enjoy them all.
Eric, check out the Mastercool MSC71475 hydraulic flaring tool. Will do trans/steering/fuel line flares so you don't need to buy those "repair lines" to change a filter on a really rusty GM. Lines went from being miserable to being tolerable.
This looks amazing. I have never hated a tool as much as I hate the regular double flaring tool. A little expensive, but anything to curb my hatred of making brake lines is worth it.
you should check out the mastercool set, it does brake and fuel lines and a few of the guys at my shop have them and they work awesome. it also doesnt need a vise so you can do flares in the car.
this is cool but most of the time my headaches are repairing the lines on the car.......... where the cal van inline flaring tool works like a charm!!!! and is a true life saver!!!!
The problem with the other tool from my experience and what I see other people doing is: you need to tighten the clamp nearest the tube 1st then tighten the other one, if you do it the other way around the tool has no leverage to tighten down right then the tube slips on you.
we have had this kit for a while at our shop. it is branded S.U.R.R.A.R. One of the guys bought one of the hand help hydraulic flaring tools and it is BOSS!. i reccomend spending a few more bucks and going with the hydraulic tool
In the last 12 years or so I've bent lines by hand and never once had a kink or buckle in any metal lines. I use kneecap for large soft bends or thumbs for tighter radius. But the fabbing of lines I found really sucks are arse. Those flaring tools have about a 50% success rate for me.
Hahaha! I liked the "Dubble". ;) Nice tool, but it's too limited for that kind of money for me. Were it usable under the car in tight spaces, then it would be great.
The true benefit of the cheap tool is that you can acteally use it while the brakeline is still on the car, like for example if you only need to reflare or smoething.
Nice kit and certainly a step up from the traditional tool. However, I'm not a fan of being confined to the vise. Sometimes I need to flare a line that is already on the car. I use the Matco hydraulic flaring tool. More pricey but it's worth it for the portability.
Very well explained,, except for what you omitted. For instance why are the dies marked Din on the flat back side, what are they for? Why is one of those Operations 1 marked din, but the rest are not? Why do all the dies have a din marked on the back except the 3/8 die? Good luck getting these answers from Eastwood,, i tried.
Very interesting tool....seems like a great bench tool. Someone had commented that flaring steel 3/8" line was a problem I have to ask what you doing with the steel line? Power steering maybe?....We use 3/8" aluminum line for fuel injection and the aluminum is good for 300 psi. Also I didn't see it anywhere, but many hot rodders like to do their brake lines in stainless steel, but if you do so make sure your SS line is "annealed" not hard....soft enough to flare correctly, but plenty strong for brake line pressures...
Hi Eric - you should review the Trident flare tool. It's very consistent, cheap and can be used in situ. I think they're available in the USA - sold by AB Tools-Bond apparently.
I just bought this tool. Love it and haven't even used it. Saw it at a truck show being demonstrated and had to have it. I was going to do a video on it but yours is so good I'd be wasting my time. So can I do a quick video sending people to your video on this tool and your channel? I'd link in in the description and a card if I can. Good job man!
250.00 is a lot of cheddar for a tool I'll use maybe a couple times in my life time. I'd get this tool for a shop but not your average joe hope you can do tool review for more common situation.
Some VERY EXPENSIVE cars, usually italian supercars, may use multiple line diameters and some non-standard lines, and some really weird hydroformed pieces, but if you own one of those cars you are probably taking it to a tech that works EXCLUSIVELY on those cars, and gets to top dollar for their work.
When using the tubing cutter I have found never go the same direction in turning. It is best to turn than tighten and turn back the way you came. This helps if your tubing cutter is worn or not properly aligned. It will give you a more consistent cut.
Another quick way to measure the brake line diameter, put the open end of a wrench over it. A 3/16" wrench fits snugly over the 3/16" line and a 1/4" wrench fits over the 1/4" line, etc.
Eric, I just want to throw this out there: I'm a long time car guy, parts counter salesman, etc.. im no longer in the business as im an EMT now, but i started this nature of work back in 1999 and sold parts at a "mom & pop" type parts store named Congress Auto Parts in West Palm Beach up till 2008. I stayed in the business for that length of time for CUSTOMERS LIKE YOU. I enjoyed being on a 1st name basis with my "good" customers, ordered "special" parts over phone for them, etc.. I was a great asst manager and made it far with in that company and i thank customers like you cause i LEARN from them! Thanks for all the great videos and reviews...
Seth
Got sick of using the older flaring tool over the years at about 60% effectiveness. Bought the Eastwood tool and the Lisle 3/16" tube bending pliers and was astounded by the effectiveness of these tools.Awesome. Best tool combination I have purchased in years. I have not made a bad flare since. Thanks for sharing Eric.
I've always gotten a 100% success rate with my cheap tool. I don't do enough brake jobs to spend the money on this tool.
When you were talking about the other style flaring tool I said out loud "they suck!" I have a set from MAC tools and I hate it. I thought money could solve the problem by buying a nicer kit. Nope. A nicer design is in order. Especially if you work on Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep much. Let's just say their brake lines are "creative" (Frankenstein one-offs) and never in stock. I'm buying this. Take my money! There I go again...
It's a sickness many of us deal with. I understand. I'm here for you.
$50 off was more than enough to cover the $20 shipping.
Looks like I need it....
Yeah, crap, wish I'd have had this for the other brake line jobs I've done. Just got done buying a new one of the lame type not 2 weeks ago too. Guess I'll have to hope the deal holds a while so I can save up the pennies for this.
Buyers remorse huh?... sorry man.
I just ordered this tool and the 37 degree die that everyone with a choice seems to love. When Eric said it was "life changing" the part of my brain that trusts him and the part that hates flaring made a commitment to go for it. I'm excited to try it out!
sorry if anyone covered this already, but you mentioned that 37 degree flares are becoming more popular with builders for "some reason". The reason is in fact, stainless steel lines. You're supposed to use a 37 degree single flare on stainless line because of its nature to easily become damaged or split during the multiple bends required to achieve a 45 double, or even a 45 single flare. If you want the nice shiny stainless lines, you gotta do single 37 flares!
I use the Ridgid flaring tool specifically for stainless lines. It doesn't press the whole flare at once, it presses in a circle, slowly flaring as it rotates.
I have this Eastwood flare tool also but I'm having issues now getting a flare that doesn't leak, and I've barely used it.
I feel like I have been driving on square wheels and you just introduced me to round ones.
Excellent tool, and fun to use! I'm restoring an old 56 Chevy, not a full time mechanic, so I found a Vevor flaring tool, pretty much identical, for less than $100. Comes with basic dies, and tubing cutter. Does both 45* and 37*. I love it!!
Glad I found this video, I have to redo all brake and fuel lines on a CJ-7 jeep project and I was regretting using the old tool I've used before. I'll definitely give one of these a try on my next paycheck. Thanks Eric.
GREAT TOOL! But I would not throw the other flare too away, because it doesnt look like this can easily be used on the vehicle, like the other flaring tool can
I was thinking the same thing. The only disadvantage would be a job where you have to do a run from the front to back and you don't want to take the line out again once you cut it to size. But, this thing is still amazing.
You're right, and I won't.
EricTheCarGuy I wouldn't either. The other tool I seen time and time again was a snap on hydraulic tool, which is like $600 or something nuts like that. If I could get the hydraulic tool for $200 I would certainly get that. Ha, what you should really do is make a video on how to use that $20 flare kit. I used to work at an auto-parts store and see those things come back stripped all the time because people don't know how to use them right. One other thing I did was keep small sections of brake line in my tool box when I first started working on cars labeled with tape what size they where. Same with vacuum hoses.
I agree. I wouldn't throw the cheaper tool away
If you're doing 3/16" double flares, get the ~ $35 Eastwood hand held tool It works much better than the butterfly type. It's on Eastwood's website as 31244 and Eric has also done a review on it.
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html
I have been using the Master Cool hydraulic hand tool and it works great. It will do double flare, inverted flare , push connect, metric bubble, and GM transmission. All at a cost of $300.00
37 and 45 degree at that price?
37 deg. is used for stainless steal, because ss will fracture if you go any wider.
Could be. But currently running 7 double flared 45s that went off with no splits or fails using seamless stainless. Ends of stainless tubing need to be prepped meticulously i suppose. I used a dremel with a cone shape stone to prep the ID after using a carbide cutter to debur, and resize. Work stainless slower than steel. I was told later that double flaring stainless wasn't necessary or preffered, do to work hardening, go figure.
You really should not STEAL anything, stainless or otherwise.
37 degree is for any metal being used in an AN fitting.
I think the reason they say antiseize is that they don't want lubricant anywhere near the vice that holds the tubing. A big problem with the old style flare kit is the vice loses grip and the tubing slides back a hair. This kit looks great, though I'm not sure I want to spend that much right now....
I got the cheap flaring tool years ago,out of 30 or so flares I made with it, 3/4s of them leaked.I ended up buying lines already made up! My new Eastwood tool came today,read the instructions,didn't quite understand how a bubble flare was made. Your video made it clear,thanks! The cheap flaring tool is going to the scrap metal pile!
Oh man.... I used the old style to do my Ranger once. Now that I had that experience I can justify the $200 for this upgrade. I knew about the $200 one from Eastwood, just tried to make the $60 dollar old style work. Had to remake several flares as they were off center. Spent lots of time... learned a lot about flares. Like learning to use hand tools before power tools.
I love your deliberate step by step demystification of auto work, thanks.
AN Fittings ( believe or not stands for Army Navy ) is approved for aircraft. AN fittings use a 37 degree flare. I have been told the reason being the stainless steel will tend to crack when flared to 45 degree.
37 degree flares are for stainless steel lines, with two part an3 fittings.
Open end wrenches are good for determining tubing size, too. In this case, though the tubing odd only going to fit into to clamping die of the proper size, so those work nicely for finding the size too. Great video!
That has to be the best flaring tool in existence. I've been using the blue point flaring kits for years with no trouble but now I see an upgrade in my future.
I've had the hydraulic one for years now and it is really nice and yes you can use it ON the vehicle. Always buy the best you can afford even if it hurts. good job Eric. I'm a fan and member
That is one well-thought-out tool! Outstanding!
Eastwood: make a simple line measuring tool to include with the kit (ie - a flat piece of stock with slots cut in it in the different tube sizes that can be slipped over the line to determine its size)
Thanks a lot for the explanation. I never thought they were gonna make something so beautiful and easy to manipulate. Amazing tool.
I bought mine a year or two ago and love it. Brake lines are a breeze now. I got mine off of Eastwood's eBay page. They are a little less expensive there.
I was looking at buying this .I’m a 3 year aviation mechanic about to take my certifications. Im lookin to see if I can use this as I work for a flight school and our planes get ridden hard and put away wet. Oh yea and all our airframes were made in the 70,s and on up. Mostly nothing younger than 2003 😂 .
Point is we have to keep these things going no matter what and they have to be safe. It’s a tall order but if you really like working on old stuff this jobs for 🫵
Anyway thanks again I’m gonna buy these tools because I can’t tell you how many hydronic lines and brake lines we have done this year. Anyway like to say thank you for this video ! It’s not just for car guys Eric ! Your helping us fly boys too! IM A LONG TIME VIEWER OF THIS CHANNEL. one of the best on you tube. Thanks Easy E ! Your a quality guy. Would love to have a beer with ya one day. Lol. See ya ✌️
Mike M . KLZU Briscoe airport Atlanta .
I bought one of these tools when I was replacing my brake lines. Money well spent!
They work great on brake and flared lines. but I like my Mastercool Universal. 71475. Does pretty much any tubing connection type out there (trans, brakes, fuel, HVAC) and can do it on installed lines as well as on the bench. This tool is nice but being bench bound limits you in many ways.
Suggestion on tubing size tool. Take a block of either hard wood or metal and drill 4 holes in it to match the tubing sizes. Or buy 4 of the fittings and couple them together.
Being able to fabricate brake lines is an awesome capability. Shops often charge a LOT of money for brake line replacement, so in places like the the Northeast it's not unusual to find used cars that are in good shape but need brake lines that are available way under KBB valuation. Spools of brake line are only +/- $25 and I tend to re-use the original fittings with no problems.
Bought the identical flare tool branded as inlinetube on Ebay from Motorcitymusclecar for $199 delivered. It arrived today. Can't wait to try it. Your video appeared the day after I ordered it. Thanks for the video!
At the 5:XX mark, you are holding the tubing pliers backwards/they are facing the wrong way. You should always have the round opening of the tool on the outside of the bend so when you bend the tubing, it sits in the curved portion of the pliers.
I don't think that first step makes a bubble flare. You would need to use the other side of the die, that says DIN, to make a proper bubble flare.
Tool works great I've done 6 double flares on stainless steel today using it
A proper brake flaring tool will save a lot of heart-ache. We needed to replace the ENTIRE rusted out brake line system on an old pickup truck we got that had sat for almost 10 years. My room-mate at the time took this on, and got a cheap flare tool, annnnd.... well... I believe it's still having leakage problems after 3 attempts.
A good flare tool and good brake line will save you MANY HOURS of work and tracking down brake leaks that are inevitable with a cheap tool.
Recently picked up a very cheap GM wagon with rotten brake lines. I have always shied away from a car with this problem, mostly because every mechanic I have known has ruminated about what a PIA this kind of work is. I watched your vid on the Fairmont brake line replacement, and I am super appreciative of the way you approached the task. I am, as a DIY guy, ordering the Eastwood tool, yes, a lot of cash, but do it once, do it right. Still beats paying the local jerk.
I bought one of these not too long ago and its takes all the hard work out of doing brake lines - they are actually fun to flare! I've been getting away without lube, but WD-40 is good enough. After your flare, slightly loosen the blue clamp and wiggle the line - that frees it up so when you pop the pin and swing the clamp off the line is not stuck to the dies.
What I like doing is removing a line off a vehicle and bending it to match and flaring new ends. This is much easier and you don't have to use that clamp too under a vehicle. Oriley Auto sells a REALLY nice hand flare tool like he shows above - it looks to be better material and has a better case. Just tell the guys you are buying and not renting, or have them order a fresh un-opened flare tool to buy.
Worth every penny - everyone will want to borrow it.
Another great & informative video Eric. I have no doubt that this tool works great, is well built and well worth the price if you're doing a lot of brake lines in a shop or something. But for the DIY'er like myself (and I presume the majority of your viewers) who rarely has to flare hard lines, this tool is a little pricey. I just wouldn't be able to justify the expense for a tool I might use once a year or so. The 'clamp' style tool is available for rent from most auto parts stores for 'free' so most DIY'ers will probably gravitate towards that tool rather then a $200 tool. A video on how best to use the clamp style tool would be awesome though and probably help a lot of your viewers. Thanks.
Always DABBLE CHECK your flairs! Nice video Eric. You're the man!
Thanks carguy I just bought the tool and you really taught me on how to use it ,yes it is a great tool 🔧
"Perhaps you could give this to somebody you don't like" lmaooooo
Just from observation of the tool in the video I like the chunkiness of the load bearing parts of this flaring tool. Structual mass really helps the tool not flex and bend when using it so the tool is more precise (not to mention durable).
I bought that tool after seeing your video 2 years ago, love using it, I'm about to redo all the brake lines in another car.
It's nice to see that DIN standards still do have some international meaning (since you input the "DIN" in brackets below the name "bubble"). DIN stands for "Deutsches Institut für Normung" (German Institute for Standardization) and is the standardization instance I grew up with, before there were any other standards in this place - there was a DIN standard for anything and everything ;-)
My directions that came with the kit says “oil or anti-seize”. Great video by the way. Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time showing me what this tools can achieve. My wife will yell at me for hours, but i'm buying one.
Instead of drill bits, how about taking a 3/16 wrench or 1/4 wrench and see if it will fit around it
They sell the pliers at Harbor Freight on the cheap.
Yes, I was found the bending tool at Habor Freight and another one that is smaller that I prefer. The Eastwood flaring tool is sold under TGR brand for $180 on Amazon.
the smaller tool is handy for on the car pipe work
In the USA - this kit probably is a must, in Europe we are allowed to use copper pipes, therefore cheap kit is enough for any brake, fuel, autogas jobs.
suggestions for you Eric- a nice sand paper can be used for clean up the outer edge of the tubing, doing it by hand this way will help prevent taking too much off with a grinder. if you do not have a de-burring tool a heavy grit paper can also be used in the inside of that lip and just finish it off with a fine grit to get a nice clean surface. lube on the working end is necessary and will help out a lot, glad you didnt leave that out of the video. the tubing pliers you were using make an excellent solution for bending line while in place, or for things that do no have to look pretty, but a quality handheld tubing bender will be justified if appearances are important. we always used the 37.5* AN flare or a swagelok compression fitting for cryo applications- the latter also being great for creating fittings while in place or when a very small 'back-to-back' fitting is required. as always great video ! (^_-)v
Cool. Thanks very much for the suggestions.
I bought this tool when it was under $200 to use on my hot rod I'm building but I wound up making flares for other people before I had the need to use it for myself. I had fun "practicing"
😍 I'm in love! This video is 7 years old and I'm just now seeing it 😳
Correction for viewers watching.
The die he used has to be turned the other way for a bubble flare. What he did with OP 1 was a 45 degree single flare, which became a 45 degree inverted flare with OP 2. A bubble flare has a 90 degree, not a 45 degree.
You can see the 90 degree in the other side of the die when he only has half of it installed, it will show "DIN/ISO", NOT 45, on the correct side.
ruclips.net/video/UxeA1lhSCsk/видео.html
Thanks for the review! I purchased this tool last night. Can't wait to use it! BTW, a Miami Dolphins fan must have had a hand in choosing the colors!
Haven’t watched the video and I already need this
I wish I knew about this tool about 4 months ago when I had to replace my brake line on my f-150 from the rabs block to the rear. I had bought two flairing tools which were crap and then got one from K tool international. It worked OK but still could not get a consistent flair. If I have do it again I will definitely get this tool and by the way bending lines isn't fun at all especially when you have to go around things on the vehicle a certain way.
First of all, if you only have a 60-70% success rate with the hand tool, you're doing something wrong. I've been using the "Manual" flaring tool for over 40 yrs. It works just fine. Occasionally I'll get a bad flare, but no where near 30% of the time. Second, sometimes you have to flare a line that's on the vehicle, and you can't bring it to the vice. The only difference is the effort. That manual flaring tool is a pain in the but if you're replacing all the lines, and doing multiple flares, or if you're old like me and your grip isn't what it used to be.
Can't do field work with that thing.
with the tubing bender pliers, you want to hold the pliers the other way around to bend them. with the curved part of the pliers facing the bracing point of where they're being held
Yea, I actually thought about cutting that part of the video but I wanted to leave the pliers in. Perhaps at some point during a project I'll demonstrate how to use them properly. Thanks for your suggestion.
:)
You may want to look at the sliding block style as well, The pliers work good for tight bends in close to fittings and areas like that but the other style usually are easier to use.
The best video I saw yet. Great detail and explanation. Looked at many videos and for me, this was spot on. Thank you Eric Sincerely John
Just two quick comments. One is that it is unlikely that we will "deburr" a 5 or 6-foot length of tube on a bench grinder. A uniform end is not likely. I would use an "inside" and "outside" deburring tool akin to what bullet reloaders use. It is fast, uniform and clean. Second is that bending plier works better on Nicopp tubing and is an awesome tool to use while you are fitting the lines around all the obstacles along the chassis. Quick hint: use a little brake fluid on the tip of your finger over the end to be flared to ease the flaring process. Just a smear will do.
I bought one on your recommendation and love it, except... For the life of me I can't get it to form a proper double-flare with 3/8 steel line. 3/16 works flawlessly, but after more than two dozen attempts with 3/8 I've given up. I've tried various degrees of chamfering, two different brands of line and the result is always the same. ~270° of the flare end is perfect and ~90° looks only partially formed.
Any ideas?
this thing is amazing. had it at my old job you can double flair a brake line in like 5 seconds once you get good with it. changed jobs where we do alot less brake lines and going back to the regular flare tool sucks. if anyone does alot of brake lines or flaring of any kind this is for you. where as you may flare a line once every 4 years then yeah just stick with the manual one
Excellent video very professional work. I had to replace the brake lines on my bmw 2005.750li
they were rusted under the rear side sub frame . I had to change complete brake line from rear to front with flex hoses as well . I took the car to auto garage they said to work on this car with material you will pay 1500$ i said no thanks went to another one down the road he said 1000.$ with material because this car needs complete master cylinder flush and abs flush .
I watched > Eric The Car Guy< what a great guy made it so easy and simple job. I did my car brake work it cost me 200$ Thanks to >ERIC THE CAR GUY< you are a brilliant mechanic.
that is a great tool! just a note 37 degree flares are used on air planes. they say its less stress on the lines. thanks for the video.
Eric! Get rid of the old school steel line. Give cupro-nickle line a try, No rusting, super easy to bend. Its a bit pricey but once you use it you will never go back!
I think any demonstration of a bench grinder should include description of hazard created by grinding non ferrous materials. Great channel. I've watched a lot of your vids and enjoy them all.
MOVE THE TUBE AROUND THE BRAKE LINE PLIERS, take Advantage of the curve built into the tool.
Eric, check out the Mastercool MSC71475 hydraulic flaring tool. Will do trans/steering/fuel line flares so you don't need to buy those "repair lines" to change a filter on a really rusty GM. Lines went from being miserable to being tolerable.
also, you can use it on the vehicle. no vice required!
Kevin Malone i agree Kevin,awesome tool. i paid 390 to my door but i can also do twice the lines and on vehicle.
All the things that can be done if done just as correctly as easily. Tools. It's important.
Eastwood brake flaring tool everyone must have one . The best tool for brake lines.
This looks amazing. I have never hated a tool as much as I hate the regular double flaring tool. A little expensive, but anything to curb my hatred of making brake lines is worth it.
I use open end wrenchs to measure the size of the line. Example 3/16, 1/4 or 5/16 inch.
you should check out the mastercool set, it does brake and fuel lines and a few of the guys at my shop have them and they work awesome. it also doesnt need a vise so you can do flares in the car.
Great video and fantastic tool. I purchased one several months ago and agree with you Eric it is a must have tool.
this is cool but most of the time my headaches are repairing the lines on the car.......... where the cal van inline flaring tool works like a charm!!!! and is a true life saver!!!!
I've been happy using the regular "bar style" flaring too from Matco. Other brands haven't quite cut it though...
The problem with the other tool from my experience and what I see other people doing is: you need to tighten the clamp nearest the tube 1st then tighten the other one, if you do it the other way around the tool has no leverage to tighten down right then the tube slips on you.
Just wondering how well the Eastwood brake flaring tool has stood up over time
we have had this kit for a while at our shop. it is branded S.U.R.R.A.R. One of the guys bought one of the hand help hydraulic flaring tools and it is BOSS!. i reccomend spending a few more bucks and going with the hydraulic tool
In the last 12 years or so I've bent lines by hand and never once had a kink or buckle in any metal lines. I use kneecap for large soft bends or thumbs for tighter radius. But the fabbing of lines I found really sucks are arse. Those flaring tools have about a 50% success rate for me.
Hahaha! I liked the "Dubble". ;)
Nice tool, but it's too limited for that kind of money for me. Were it usable under the car in tight spaces, then it would be great.
The true benefit of the cheap tool is that you can acteally use it while the brakeline is still on the car, like for example if you only need to reflare or smoething.
Yes, that is true.
Nice kit and certainly a step up from the traditional tool. However, I'm not a fan of being confined to the vise. Sometimes I need to flare a line that is already on the car. I use the Matco hydraulic flaring tool. More pricey but it's worth it for the portability.
Very well explained,, except for what you omitted. For instance why are the dies marked Din on the flat back side, what are they for? Why is one of those Operations 1 marked din, but the rest are not? Why do all the dies have a din marked on the back except the 3/8 die? Good luck getting these answers from Eastwood,, i tried.
Very interesting tool....seems like a great bench tool. Someone had commented that flaring steel 3/8" line was a problem I have to ask what you doing with the steel line? Power steering maybe?....We use 3/8" aluminum line for fuel injection and the aluminum is good for 300 psi. Also I didn't see it anywhere, but many hot rodders like to do their brake lines in stainless steel, but if you do so make sure your SS line is "annealed" not hard....soft enough to flare correctly, but plenty strong for brake line pressures...
Hi Eric - you should review the Trident flare tool. It's very consistent, cheap and can be used in situ. I think they're available in the USA - sold by AB Tools-Bond apparently.
Measure line size with dial caliper. EVERYONE should have one of those, haha. Thanks for the vid! Great tool.
Great looking flare at the end. So simple to use too!
Try the Phoenix V12 brake bleeder. Great tool and easier to use
AN fittings are great I use them all day at work....parker aerospace has tons of those in all sizes.
Just bought it ....because of this video. Awesome tool dude!
Thanks!
on sale now for $199.99
I just bought this tool. Love it and haven't even used it. Saw it at a truck show being demonstrated and had to have it. I was going to do a video on it but yours is so good I'd be wasting my time. So can I do a quick video sending people to your video on this tool and your channel? I'd link in in the description and a card if I can. Good job man!
I love Eastwood's stuff!
I need this Eastwood brake tube flaring tool
Hi
250.00 is a lot of cheddar for a tool I'll use maybe a couple times in my life time. I'd get this tool for a shop but not your average joe hope you can do tool review for more common situation.
These are the shit! Those are exactly what we use in the aviation world...
That is one sweet tool!
Some VERY EXPENSIVE cars, usually italian supercars, may use multiple line diameters and some non-standard lines, and some really weird hydroformed pieces, but if you own one of those cars you are probably taking it to a tech that works EXCLUSIVELY on those cars, and gets to top dollar for their work.
Definitely a good review..I will be buying that set with the 37° also
The bubble flare is on metric lines most of the time would you need different dies