This video was very helpful in troubleshooting my cruise control in my 2001 F-150 Lightning. I was able to confirm that the sensor wasn't working. Before buying a new one, I checked the one on my 2002 Lightning which was working and just exchanged the two trucks' sensors. During the test drive, it still didn't work. I checked the fuse on the pigtail and it was blown. Replaced the fuse, and the cruise control has finally worked in my 2001 for the first time since I bought it 4 years ago. Now I need to by the replacement parts for the other one now. Thank you!
Oh man. Thank you. I purchased this part and now I have cruise control. Your video is awesome and I really thank you for doing such a great job explaining how to replace it.
Thanks very helpful. I really like having cruise control and after watching your video, spending $21.00, and 10 minutes to install I now have it again.
Lol mine never worked in the 8 years I've had my harley f150 just kind assumes the buttons were bad lol. Had bigger issues ig with the 4r100 going out lol. Still got the truck will look into this.
@@GooseAutoWorks My 2008 had the sensor cleverly hidden, even Ford parts dept. was surprised at the location. Part is ordered, now it looks like the hard part will be to unplug the pigtail without being able to see it, any hints?
@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks, I used a mirror to finally find it and the parts dude at the Ford dealership was going to have one of the techs come out to find out how the pigtail comes off...I think he wants to know also! I appreciate the followups, I'll let you know what happens.
Well, I'm at a loss for a fix. The '08 F150 has no switch like described anywhere, and the one master cylinder switch that I purchased doesn't seem to do do anything. 'Car Doctor' ruclips.net/video/F1hDcVYBA2k/видео.html
Goose my mechanic fixed mine. However they plugged the pigtail back into wherever apparently where ford had cut the wires on the recall. It seems you done away with that and went into the next switch. Should I do that? Thanking you young guys out there making these videos to help us less electronic challenged older folks!
The part I used and have linked in the description is meant to replace the existing wiring harness. This is what I would recommend. Depending on what was swapped out (sensor or wiring) it could still overload that circuit. If the fuse is no longer there, the recall fix has essentially been undone.
I've been trying to figure out why my cruise has not been working in my '03 F-150 lariat for months now and as soon as I get done watching this video I will be heading out the door probably to Ford to get this part so I can fix my cruise so that I have cruise control on my hunt this weekend then I'm going on here in Colorado
@@GooseAutoWorks I called them prior to going and they've already pulled it plus I only use Ford parts because my grandfather gave me this truck when I graduated high school and it's never had anything but Ford parts and I'm not going to change that now
I picked up the duralast 4044 from autozone and did this and it works! Question: do I need to worry about fires now that I’ve taken the recall fix out? Thanks!
Cool, I’m glad it worked. You should be good now, because it was the pressure switch that was the issue. With the newer one you shouldn’t have to worry about it
@@GooseAutoWorks My truck has the new style switch and it also leaked. I would 100% recommend keeping the recall harness. I'm going to try and replace the 2A fuse on mine and keep it.
I'm going to show everyone how professional you are. HELP! I have a 2004 4X4, F-205, 6.0 diesel. Just bought it used and unkept for maintenance. Right now, it's hard starting & hardly runs. Working 12/7, so, I have it at the Ford dealership to trouble-shoot and repair. I'm interested in providing all parts nessesary, paying for the whole labor fees... Please suggest to me... If this was yours, How would you approach this project, End Results? Fullest Performance & Driveability. Again, keep the videos updated for us working folks, Michael common
Hey Michael. Thanks for the positive words! I’m not super familiar with diesels and based on the short description there’s a lot of things that could be causing your issues. Having said that, if I were to start digging into it, and what I imagine the techs will do it to look at these things first. Fuel injectors, make sure they’re not dirty or malfunctioning. Compression, diesels have considerably higher compression than gasoline engines and they arguably rely on compression more so than gasoline engines so if that’s off that could be part of the issue. The turbo may cause sluggishness during a load, but that shouldn’t have any bearing on the start up. Air filter, make sure this is clean. I doubt it would be the cause of everything all on its own, but piggybacked with other issues this could definitely make a difference as diesels will pull in a lot more air and need to breathe. Also if this truck has been sitting animals and insects could’ve started to build nests inside and that’s no good. Ultimately though I would look at injectors and compression, but injectors are likely the biggest cause here. If I had to guess I’d say they’re pretty dirty or going out. Especially if the truck has been neglected. Bad injectors would cause all these issues your mentioning, but the other stuff are probably things you’d want to check out/replace just so you know what condition you’re dealing with. I’d be interested to know what the shop has to say.
I just purchased a 2005 ford f-150 California edition from a guy. During the test drive several days earlier, the cruise control worked, but I did see the red brake light warning on the dashboard. When I drove it home yesterday red brake light warning was still on and I now had no cruise control. To me it also seemed like I had to push pretty hard on the brakes when wanting to slow down or stop, but maybe that’s normal for an old truck? I’ve never owned a pickup truck before. Do you think this truck needs the part you’re using/recommending in your video? Would that part be in the same spot (easy to locate) in a 2005 f-150 California edition? I looked but I didn’t see it in that location (but I’m also the furthest thing away from a mechanic!) Thanks
On your truck I believe it’s a blue and white switch, behind the brake pedal in the foot well. But it sounds like it’s a brake issue. Not cruise. Check your fluid level and if it seems to be leaking. If it’s full and in good shape it may be your booster. It shouldn’t be difficult to press the brakes. You can also test the booster by pushing in and holding on the brake. It shouldn’t sink while you’re holding. Also you can test it with the truck off. You should have about 1 and a half good presses with your foot before it gets firm. If you don’t have that or if you feel a sinking feeling or hear air squeaking or hissing your booster is bad. You can also make sure the vacuum hose leading to it is fully seated and not leaking. In that case you may also have a check engine light for a vacuum leak.
How’s your fluid level? I had to tap on my reservoir to get the float to unstick. As far as the cruise light outs possible there’s a loose solder connection on the cluster’s pcb, but I’m not really sure. That’s weird.
Do you have an inline fuse in the harness? That was the “fix” but the fuse frequently trips. The harness I install replaces that while preventing the overheating of the wiring.
@TimeCapsuleClips530 All good. It’s more to do with replacing the brake pressure switch than the harness itself. But it’s a kit and the replacement harness is what’s compatible with the new switch.
You’ll probably need this part here: Motorcraft SW6546 Cruise Control Switch www.amazon.com/dp/B00130L77Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8Y2X0E4PAJN3DWB8NK84 It’s under the drivers side dash above the pedals
It shouldn’t, no. If you used a pad compound that wears quicker than what was on there that would obviously do it. I would also check your guide pins to ensure the caliper isn’t sticking, keeping it engaged, although if that was the case you’d likely see glazing on your rotor as well.
What happens if my truck does not have that switch? I have a 1992 F150 4x4...there is no switch like that on the master cylinder. Cruise stopped working after replacing the auto shifter for the transmission. The previous owner busted the OD button right off, so I replaced the entire shifter. After that, my cruise stopped working. I checked fuses #13 and #18 and they looked to be in working order.
Our work truck is a 2002 F150 4x4 single cab. At first the cruise light wouldn't even come on and cruise didn't work. I changed out the part you did but using an O'Reilly's equivalent and the cruise light now comes on when I hit "Set" but the truck slows down because the actuator isn't engaging I guess. If I hit the brake the cruise light goes off. So, I think I have two issues, maybe?
Sounds like it. With these cable driven throttle bodies sometimes extra slack gets introduced. Also you can actually watch the throttle pedal move when the cruise functions. I would double check your brake fluid level (since that’s what operates the pressure switch) and possibly swap your throttle position sensor. Does the truck rev or anything when the cruise is set? Does it act like the “Coast” button is being held down?
@@GooseAutoWorks Thank you for the quick reply. The truck does not rev when the cruise is set but more like you stated it acts like the "coast" button is being held down. Last week we had the brake system flushed by the dealer but the cruise wasn't working before that, either. So it has a fresh, clean and full reservoir of brake fluid.
My only guess would be a loose connection in the actual steering wheel controls or the cruise actuator. I'm leaning towards the actuator. These throttle bodies are cable controlled using vacuum for the cruise actuator. If there's a vacuum leak, it wouldn't actually operate the throttle body. The lack of an engine rev supports this as well. It's also free to check so I would look there first.
It's a 93 but, it's gotta' have master cyl. from something else. The whole truck has been that way, an AOD tranny and God knows what else! On the servo is the wiring harness and the actuator cable, that's all ! The cruise was working fine when parked the night before, the next day, it doesn't work ! Checked cc fuses in both boxes, they are good. I just don't know what to do !
Hey there, welcome to the channel! For your year, you would need this part: amzn.to/3UsYJBY It is inside, under the driver foot well, behind the brake pedal.
crap... so that stupid new master cylinder i replaced that was missing that sensor controls the cruise off switch... i guess a jumper wire would let me turn it on.... one more mod taking me one more step closer to death lol.
My “Cruise” light comes on when I set it on my 2003 F150, but it doesn’t engage and the light doesn’t go off. Could this be the problem or is it something else?! Seems like it’s something else simple to me, but idk where to begin.
Hmmm. I’m not too sure. I would inspect the fuse and sensor going into the master cylinder for leaks just to cross that off the list. It may be worth checking your other fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab. If I had to direct you in one direction first though, based off what you’re describing I would take a look at the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. It seems like the brake switch side of things is fine, but the computer can’t regulate the speed because it doesn’t know what to base it off of
This truck is a 2002. On a 2011 it should be a blue and white switch behind the brake pedal, on the inside of the truck. It is just called a brake switch if you want to look it up.
It can. Yes. Before I fixed mine, the “Cruise” light would not illuminate because it wasn’t working properly. Now that I have the cruise capability back the light turns on when I use it.
It would prevent the cruise control function from even operating, so in that sense the cruise light would not illuminate. If you’re saying your cruise works, but the light just doesn’t come on it could simply be a loose solder joint on the instrument cluster.
It can, yes. Because that sensor on the master cylinder leaks brake fluid and because the levels can get too low your ABS light can certainly come on. Mine did. After the fix and filling it with fresh fluid it had stayed off.
For ‘05’s there’s a different cruise switch. It’s blue and white and located under steering wheel, up above the pedals. I would first check your brake fluid levels and see if there’s any visible leaking from your master cylinder
Hi..good video..I have a question..in my F150 97 the connector burn inside ..the truck is off..I don't know why the connector burn and still hot for contac..some body know why this happens..😯 ??
If it was never replaced by Ford, it sounds like you experienced what the fuse was meant to mitigate: over heating and burning of that harness. If you remove the whole harness and brake switch, and replace it with the one I have listed, it should solve your issues. I hope this is helpful.
My brake Switch was leaking brake fluid and the brake light would come on when it runs low on fluid. We replaced it but the cruise control still doesn’t work.
Depending on the year (2004 or newer) sounds like may be something to do with your IWE. either the hub itself, the solenoid, check valve or vacuum lines.
It doesn’t have to be. It just may be related if both problems are presenting at the same time. Check your inline fuse. That will be your biggest indicator. If it’s blown, consider replacing the harness and switch. If it’s not, there’s something else going on if your cruise isn’t working.
I replaced that switch and it did NOT fix my problem.. When I turn on my cruise it will continually speed up slowly.. Does anyone know what my problem is??
What was it doing before? It’s possible the actual controls on the steering wheel need to be swapped out. Do you have any trouble codes? I wonder if the throttle is sticking or if your throttle position sensors is acting up
I don't think you are supposed to remove the fused harness...my truck has the new style switch plus the fused harness and guess what...the new switches also leak. So I will replace the fuse in the harness and the switch.
From what I understand the new harness was made to eliminate the need for the fuse, and the only reason there was ever a fuse was to prevent the fires that were occurring due to overload. I can’t speak for your case or experience, but I will say I haven’t had any issues with leaks or the cruise cutting out since making the replacement. I hope you are able to find a resolution though.
@@GooseAutoWorks You are misunderstanding. The fuse-less harness that comes with a new style switch just matches the new style connector on the new style switch. One way or another the "hot at all times" wire in that branch circuit needs a 2 amp fuse, because brake fluid leaking into the electrical connector creates a high resistance / low current short to ground that the 15 or 20 amp main fuse that protects the entire circuit is much too strong to prevent fire in the connector. btw: these switches are normally closed and commonly disable cruise control because they get stuck open. Some switches are mounted downstream on a brake line junction instead of master cylinder.
What year? By replacing that harness you eliminate the inline fuse from Ford, but I would check any other fuses and relays related to the cruise control and braking system
The problem is probably, The Speed Control Inhibitor Sensor. Goes under the dash board, way up there by the steering column. Blue and white in color, can't miss it, odd looking shape piece. HOPE THAT HELPS. B-SAFE N STAY SAFE!!!!
It’s good to check there, but in my case the fuse would continually blow. It got bad enough it would blow every time I started the truck because that harness was bad. Just keep and eye on it
Yeah, the 2 amps are a little more difficult to come by. I think I ordered some on Amazon. An extra 3 amps isn’t a ton of extra current flowing through, but it is 150% more than what is supposed to be there. The harness visually can look ok, but the problem is the excessive current put on that system and the heat caused as a result. That’s why the fuse was introduced by Ford as a fix. Before the fuse was there, vehicles were actually catching on fire. By putting in a larger amp fuse, you’re effectively allowing more current to pass through before the system turns off to protect itself (via a fuse blow). All that said, you’re probably ok with a 5 amp fuse, but I would go ahead and spend the $5 or so on a couple of 2 amp fuses. If the frequency of the blown fuses goes up, instead of putting a larger fuse in, I would just upgrade the harness to get rid of the problem altogether.
This video is for the 10th gen F150’s (1997-2004) You'll probably need this part here: www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-switch-speed-control-inhibitor_3m5z-9f924-ac.html?Make=Ford&Model=F-150&Year=2008&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=chassis/brake_and_clutch_controls,,9F924 Look up and under your dash above your pedals. It's a blue and white sensor about 2.5-3 inches long. There's a wire that plugs into it, you'll need to unclip, and then untwist the sensor like a headlight bulb (1/4 turn counter clock wise). Installation is the reverse. Here's a better look at what it looks like, but it is cheaper in the first link (at least before shipping, tax etc.) www.carparts.com/details/Ford/F-150/Motorcraft/Cruise_Control_Switch/2008/XLT/8_Cyl_4-dot-6L/MISW6546.html
This video was very helpful in troubleshooting my cruise control in my 2001 F-150 Lightning. I was able to confirm that the sensor wasn't working. Before buying a new one, I checked the one on my 2002 Lightning which was working and just exchanged the two trucks' sensors. During the test drive, it still didn't work. I checked the fuse on the pigtail and it was blown. Replaced the fuse, and the cruise control has finally worked in my 2001 for the first time since I bought it 4 years ago. Now I need to by the replacement parts for the other one now. Thank you!
Glad to hear it, although I’m jealous of your 2 Lightnings lol
Oh man. Thank you. I purchased this part and now I have cruise control. Your video is awesome and I really thank you for doing such a great job explaining how to replace it.
Thank you. Glad it helped!
Thanks very helpful. I really like having cruise control and after watching your video, spending $21.00, and 10 minutes to install I now have it again.
Great to hear!
Thanks so much! Used the link and the video, now after 3 years of cussing at the non-functional cruise control, I love my truck again!
Haha, glad to hear it!
Lol mine never worked in the 8 years I've had my harley f150 just kind assumes the buttons were bad lol. Had bigger issues ig with the 4r100 going out lol. Still got the truck will look into this.
Fixed my cruise control on my 2002 f150 4.6l super crew due to this video. Nothing but thanks brotha!
Hey, glad to hear it! No problem
Three Thumbs Up, To The Best Internet Automobile Professional I Have Ever Heard of, Or Known. Keep up the great work. Michael
Wow, thanks!
Thank you. Fixed my cruise. Used the ford number to cross reference at local parts store.
No problem. Glad it did the trick!
Ordered parts from Amazon installed and problem solved. Thank you
Glad to hear it!!
Finally after 3 years my cruise control is working, thanks for making this video!
Absolutely! I’m glad it helped!
Repaired for $30 and 5 minutes of time! Thanks!
Glad to hear it! No problem!!
I've been dealing with this problem for at least a year, I'm heading out the door now to get that part. Thanks, new subscriber here.
Thanks! Glad to help. It’s a quick and easy fix, but let me know if you have any questions
@@GooseAutoWorks My 2008 had the sensor cleverly hidden, even Ford parts dept. was surprised at the location. Part is ordered, now it looks like the hard part will be to unplug the pigtail without being able to see it, any hints?
I think I remember something about the ‘08 models being different. I think my best advice would be a helper and/or mirror.
@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks, I used a mirror to finally find it and the parts dude at the Ford dealership was going to have one of the techs come out to find out how the pigtail comes off...I think he wants to know also! I appreciate the followups, I'll let you know what happens.
Well, I'm at a loss for a fix. The '08 F150 has no switch like described anywhere, and the one master cylinder switch that I purchased doesn't seem to do do anything. 'Car Doctor' ruclips.net/video/F1hDcVYBA2k/видео.html
Thanks a bunch. My repair truly took less time than it took to make the video. Nice work
Glad it helped
Mine cruise stopped and the break light has been on for years. Guess I'll be trying this out. Thanks for the input..
No problem. Hope it helps
Goose my mechanic fixed mine. However they plugged the pigtail back into wherever apparently where ford had cut the wires on the recall. It seems you done away with that and went into the next switch. Should I do that? Thanking you young guys out there making these videos to help us less electronic challenged older folks!
The part I used and have linked in the description is meant to replace the existing wiring harness. This is what I would recommend. Depending on what was swapped out (sensor or wiring) it could still overload that circuit. If the fuse is no longer there, the recall fix has essentially been undone.
Just repaired my cruise ctrl following the video. Super easy and effective. Tks!
You’re welcome. Glad to hear it!
I've been trying to figure out why my cruise has not been working in my '03 F-150 lariat for months now and as soon as I get done watching this video I will be heading out the door probably to Ford to get this part so I can fix my cruise so that I have cruise control on my hunt this weekend then I'm going on here in Colorado
You may have better luck on Amazon, but just show Ford the part number from the video
@@GooseAutoWorks I called them prior to going and they've already pulled it plus I only use Ford parts because my grandfather gave me this truck when I graduated high school and it's never had anything but Ford parts and I'm not going to change that now
The part number is a Ford Motorcraft part, but if they’ve got it on hand, go for it!
I’ve had my truck since I was 15 so I can appreciate the sentiment.
Only thing missing is “.” and “,” .
I picked up the duralast 4044 from autozone and did this and it works!
Question: do I need to worry about fires now that I’ve taken the recall fix out?
Thanks!
Cool, I’m glad it worked. You should be good now, because it was the pressure switch that was the issue. With the newer one you shouldn’t have to worry about it
@@GooseAutoWorks My truck has the new style switch and it also leaked. I would 100% recommend keeping the recall harness. I'm going to try and replace the 2A fuse on mine and keep it.
Thank you! Easy to replicate and straight to the point. Subscriber earned.
Absolutely! I’m glad it helped
Thanks for providing the link 🤙
No problem 👍
I'm going to show everyone how professional you are. HELP! I have a 2004 4X4, F-205, 6.0 diesel. Just bought it used and unkept for maintenance. Right now, it's hard starting & hardly runs. Working 12/7, so, I have it at the Ford dealership to trouble-shoot and repair. I'm interested in providing all parts nessesary, paying for the whole labor fees... Please suggest to me... If this was yours, How would you approach this project, End Results? Fullest Performance & Driveability. Again, keep the videos updated for us working folks, Michael common
Hey Michael. Thanks for the positive words! I’m not super familiar with diesels and based on the short description there’s a lot of things that could be causing your issues. Having said that, if I were to start digging into it, and what I imagine the techs will do it to look at these things first. Fuel injectors, make sure they’re not dirty or malfunctioning. Compression, diesels have considerably higher compression than gasoline engines and they arguably rely on compression more so than gasoline engines so if that’s off that could be part of the issue. The turbo may cause sluggishness during a load, but that shouldn’t have any bearing on the start up. Air filter, make sure this is clean. I doubt it would be the cause of everything all on its own, but piggybacked with other issues this could definitely make a difference as diesels will pull in a lot more air and need to breathe. Also if this truck has been sitting animals and insects could’ve started to build nests inside and that’s no good. Ultimately though I would look at injectors and compression, but injectors are likely the biggest cause here. If I had to guess I’d say they’re pretty dirty or going out. Especially if the truck has been neglected. Bad injectors would cause all these issues your mentioning, but the other stuff are probably things you’d want to check out/replace just so you know what condition you’re dealing with. I’d be interested to know what the shop has to say.
I just purchased a 2005 ford f-150 California edition from a guy. During the test drive several days earlier, the cruise control worked, but I did see the red brake light warning on the dashboard. When I drove it home yesterday red brake light warning was still on and I now had no cruise control. To me it also seemed like I had to push pretty hard on the brakes when wanting to slow down or stop, but maybe that’s normal for an old truck? I’ve never owned a pickup truck before. Do you think this truck needs the part you’re using/recommending in your video? Would that part be in the same spot (easy to locate) in a 2005 f-150 California edition? I looked but I didn’t see it in that location (but I’m also the furthest thing away from a mechanic!) Thanks
On your truck I believe it’s a blue and white switch, behind the brake pedal in the foot well. But it sounds like it’s a brake issue. Not cruise. Check your fluid level and if it seems to be leaking. If it’s full and in good shape it may be your booster. It shouldn’t be difficult to press the brakes. You can also test the booster by pushing in and holding on the brake. It shouldn’t sink while you’re holding. Also you can test it with the truck off. You should have about 1 and a half good presses with your foot before it gets firm. If you don’t have that or if you feel a sinking feeling or hear air squeaking or hissing your booster is bad. You can also make sure the vacuum hose leading to it is fully seated and not leaking. In that case you may also have a check engine light for a vacuum leak.
My 1993 Ford F150 5.0 does not have that you’re showing.
Yeah, this will just work for the 10th generation trucks, ‘97-early ‘04, unfortunately.
@@GooseAutoWorks where can I go to find instructions on a 1993 Ford F150 cruise control.
tell me where I can buy that repair kit because no parts place including Motorcraft knows anything about it.
Motorcraft SW6350 Brake Repair Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYLZDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_g4zCjGn7apGYy
Thanks! This did the trick!
No problem, glad to hear it!
Awesome vid!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it
Thanks! Good video.
No problem. Thank you!
What year truck is that? My 2008 does not have that switch on the master cylinder.
It’s a 2002. Yours is going to be a blue and white switch in your driver foot well behind the brake pedal.
Hi, good video. I have a 2004 so did the cruise control switch (blue and white) but did not fix. Any idea for a next step? Thanks!
So 2004 was a split year. Do you have the same body style as the ‘05-‘09 trucks or the ‘97-‘03 trucks?
After this fix Cruise control works, bur no Cruise indicator lights. Brake warning still lit.
How’s your fluid level? I had to tap on my reservoir to get the float to unstick. As far as the cruise light outs possible there’s a loose solder connection on the cluster’s pcb, but I’m not really sure. That’s weird.
When I bought my truck it came with a harness with a blue tag on it. Does that mean the recall has been performed?
Do you have an inline fuse in the harness? That was the “fix” but the fuse frequently trips. The harness I install replaces that while preventing the overheating of the wiring.
@@GooseAutoWorksYeah I have the inline fuse. How does the new harness prevent overheating? Sorry for my questions I'm new to this
@TimeCapsuleClips530 All good. It’s more to do with replacing the brake pressure switch than the harness itself. But it’s a kit and the replacement harness is what’s compatible with the new switch.
I have an 08 f150 and I have a power boost and does not look like that. I'll have to look up the location for it. Thanks
You’ll probably need this part here: Motorcraft SW6546 Cruise Control Switch www.amazon.com/dp/B00130L77Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8Y2X0E4PAJN3DWB8NK84
It’s under the drivers side dash above the pedals
Can this switch cause abnormal wear on the rear brake pads. Just changed them two years ago and they are already completely gone.
It shouldn’t, no. If you used a pad compound that wears quicker than what was on there that would obviously do it. I would also check your guide pins to ensure the caliper isn’t sticking, keeping it engaged, although if that was the case you’d likely see glazing on your rotor as well.
What happens if my truck does not have that switch? I have a 1992 F150 4x4...there is no switch like that on the master cylinder. Cruise stopped working after replacing the auto shifter for the transmission. The previous owner busted the OD button right off, so I replaced the entire shifter. After that, my cruise stopped working. I checked fuses #13 and #18 and they looked to be in working order.
Our work truck is a 2002 F150 4x4 single cab. At first the cruise light wouldn't even come on and cruise didn't work. I changed out the part you did but using an O'Reilly's equivalent and the cruise light now comes on when I hit "Set" but the truck slows down because the actuator isn't engaging I guess. If I hit the brake the cruise light goes off. So, I think I have two issues, maybe?
Sounds like it. With these cable driven throttle bodies sometimes extra slack gets introduced. Also you can actually watch the throttle pedal move when the cruise functions. I would double check your brake fluid level (since that’s what operates the pressure switch) and possibly swap your throttle position sensor. Does the truck rev or anything when the cruise is set? Does it act like the “Coast” button is being held down?
@@GooseAutoWorks Thank you for the quick reply. The truck does not rev when the cruise is set but more like you stated it acts like the "coast" button is being held down. Last week we had the brake system flushed by the dealer but the cruise wasn't working before that, either. So it has a fresh, clean and full reservoir of brake fluid.
My only guess would be a loose connection in the actual steering wheel controls or the cruise actuator. I'm leaning towards the actuator. These throttle bodies are cable controlled using vacuum for the cruise actuator. If there's a vacuum leak, it wouldn't actually operate the throttle body. The lack of an engine rev supports this as well. It's also free to check so I would look there first.
Thank you I will try
Did it work?
Hi ! Well. , there wasn't a pressure switch on the front of the master cylinder ! Any ideas? Thanks, anyway !
Was it capped or something? What year?
It's a 93 but, it's gotta' have master cyl. from something else. The whole truck has been that way, an AOD tranny and God knows what else! On the servo is the wiring harness and the actuator cable, that's all ! The cruise was working fine when parked the night before, the next day, it doesn't work ! Checked cc fuses in both boxes, they are good. I just don't know what to do !
Oh ! There isn't. any hole to cap , anywhere! It's just a regular master cyl.
Hello I just subscribed., can you please tell me if it fits a 2006 f150 and if I can go to oreillys auto parts to get this ? Thanks 🙏
Hey there, welcome to the channel! For your year, you would need this part: amzn.to/3UsYJBY
It is inside, under the driver foot well, behind the brake pedal.
Horn not working and cruise control not working would this fix my horn? Fuses all good.
It sounds more like a bad clock spring
crap... so that stupid new master cylinder i replaced that was missing that sensor controls the cruise off switch... i guess a jumper wire would let me turn it on.... one more mod taking me one more step closer to death lol.
Those are the most fun though 😏
My “Cruise” light comes on when I set it on my 2003 F150, but it doesn’t engage and the light doesn’t go off. Could this be the problem or is it something else?! Seems like it’s something else simple to me, but idk where to begin.
Hmmm. I’m not too sure. I would inspect the fuse and sensor going into the master cylinder for leaks just to cross that off the list. It may be worth checking your other fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab. If I had to direct you in one direction first though, based off what you’re describing I would take a look at the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. It seems like the brake switch side of things is fine, but the computer can’t regulate the speed because it doesn’t know what to base it off of
What year of Truck troubleshooting technique referred to? I have ford2011 F150 V8.
This truck is a 2002. On a 2011 it should be a blue and white switch behind the brake pedal, on the inside of the truck. It is just called a brake switch if you want to look it up.
@@GooseAutoWorks thanks much!
Would that keep the C.C. light in the instrument cluster from working ? When you turn on the C.C. the light in the instrument cluster fails to light .
It can. Yes. Before I fixed mine, the “Cruise” light would not illuminate because it wasn’t working properly. Now that I have the cruise capability back the light turns on when I use it.
@@GooseAutoWorks Thank you !
😉👍🏻
My 1997 F-150 cruise and horn stopped working. Haven't checked anything, I was guessing contacts in the steering.
Possibly. I would check your fuses and relays first though.
It’s likely your clock spring.
Would this also cause the dash lights for the cruise to stop working?
It would prevent the cruise control function from even operating, so in that sense the cruise light would not illuminate. If you’re saying your cruise works, but the light just doesn’t come on it could simply be a loose solder joint on the instrument cluster.
Would this also put the abs light on ?
It can, yes. Because that sensor on the master cylinder leaks brake fluid and because the levels can get too low your ABS light can certainly come on. Mine did. After the fix and filling it with fresh fluid it had stayed off.
I have an 05 and the brake light is on and my cruise just recently stopped working, could this be my issue also?
For ‘05’s there’s a different cruise switch. It’s blue and white and located under steering wheel, up above the pedals. I would first check your brake fluid levels and see if there’s any visible leaking from your master cylinder
Hi..good video..I have a question..in my F150 97 the connector burn inside ..the truck is off..I don't know why the connector burn and still hot for contac..some body know why this happens..😯 ??
If it was never replaced by Ford, it sounds like you experienced what the fuse was meant to mitigate: over heating and burning of that harness. If you remove the whole harness and brake switch, and replace it with the one I have listed, it should solve your issues. I hope this is helpful.
I didn't see the link to order the part?
It’s in the description, but here you go: Motorcraft SW6350
Motorcraft brake pressure switch and harness: amzn.to/3fqV96P
My brake Switch was leaking brake fluid and the brake light would come on when it runs low on fluid. We replaced it but the cruise control still doesn’t work.
Did you use the part number I show or a different replacement?
Also, what year?
My cruise works but the instrument panel light doesn’t work??
Like “CRUISE” doesn’t illuminate when cruise control is activated?
Would this keep 4wheel drive engaging
Depending on the year (2004 or newer) sounds like may be something to do with your IWE. either the hub itself, the solenoid, check valve or vacuum lines.
What if the brake light is not on
It doesn’t have to be. It just may be related if both problems are presenting at the same time. Check your inline fuse. That will be your biggest indicator. If it’s blown, consider replacing the harness and switch. If it’s not, there’s something else going on if your cruise isn’t working.
I replaced that switch and it did NOT fix my problem.. When I turn on my cruise it will continually speed up slowly.. Does anyone know what my problem is??
What was it doing before? It’s possible the actual controls on the steering wheel need to be swapped out. Do you have any trouble codes? I wonder if the throttle is sticking or if your throttle position sensors is acting up
I don't think you are supposed to remove the fused harness...my truck has the new style switch plus the fused harness and guess what...the new switches also leak. So I will replace the fuse in the harness and the switch.
From what I understand the new harness was made to eliminate the need for the fuse, and the only reason there was ever a fuse was to prevent the fires that were occurring due to overload. I can’t speak for your case or experience, but I will say I haven’t had any issues with leaks or the cruise cutting out since making the replacement. I hope you are able to find a resolution though.
@@GooseAutoWorks You are misunderstanding.
The fuse-less harness that comes with a new style switch
just matches the new style connector on the new style switch.
One way or another the "hot at all times" wire in that branch circuit needs a 2 amp fuse,
because brake fluid leaking into the electrical connector creates a high resistance / low current short to ground that the 15 or 20 amp main fuse that protects the entire circuit is much too strong to prevent fire in the connector. btw: these switches are normally closed and commonly disable cruise control because they get stuck open. Some switches are mounted downstream on a brake line junction instead of master cylinder.
I replaced the contron5 cruiser and the same switch and still not work😢
Are you topped off with clean brake fluid?
I just fixed there is a fuse in to the switch wire fuse was blow
Well you should be replacing that whole wire. The fuse isn’t needed with the new switch and new harness.
What's the fuse size?
It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure it was a 2A fuse from factory. The replacement harness replaces it though.
None of the buttons in the steering wheel are working, is there a fuse or is it my switch
None of my buttons were working, and the switch was the issue.
@@GooseAutoWorks where is the switch location? Thanks
It’s the one I replace in the video, mounted on the master cylinder
@@GooseAutoWorks ok thanks I'll try order to sensor
I’ve got a link in the description that will take you to the right one.
I replaced mine and cruise still doesn't work...any other thing to check?
What year? By replacing that harness you eliminate the inline fuse from Ford, but I would check any other fuses and relays related to the cruise control and braking system
@@GooseAutoWorks not sure what those would be no videos on it
The problem is probably, The Speed Control Inhibitor Sensor.
Goes under the dash board, way up there by the steering column.
Blue and white in color, can't miss it, odd looking shape piece.
HOPE THAT HELPS.
B-SAFE N STAY SAFE!!!!
@@seal5215 it started working a few days later
Mine was the fuse.
It’s good to check there, but in my case the fuse would continually blow. It got bad enough it would blow every time I started the truck because that harness was bad. Just keep and eye on it
@@GooseAutoWorks forsure, my harness looks fine. The original fuse was a 2 amp but all I had was a 5 amp replacement. Thoughts?
Yeah, the 2 amps are a little more difficult to come by. I think I ordered some on Amazon. An extra 3 amps isn’t a ton of extra current flowing through, but it is 150% more than what is supposed to be there. The harness visually can look ok, but the problem is the excessive current put on that system and the heat caused as a result. That’s why the fuse was introduced by Ford as a fix. Before the fuse was there, vehicles were actually catching on fire. By putting in a larger amp fuse, you’re effectively allowing more current to pass through before the system turns off to protect itself (via a fuse blow). All that said, you’re probably ok with a 5 amp fuse, but I would go ahead and spend the $5 or so on a couple of 2 amp fuses. If the frequency of the blown fuses goes up, instead of putting a larger fuse in, I would just upgrade the harness to get rid of the problem altogether.
@@GooseAutoWorks word. Thanks man!
I have 08 and it's not like that
This video is for the 10th gen F150’s (1997-2004) You'll probably need this part here: www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-switch-speed-control-inhibitor_3m5z-9f924-ac.html?Make=Ford&Model=F-150&Year=2008&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=chassis/brake_and_clutch_controls,,9F924
Look up and under your dash above your pedals. It's a blue and white sensor about 2.5-3 inches long. There's a wire that plugs into it, you'll need to unclip, and then untwist the sensor like a headlight bulb (1/4 turn counter clock wise). Installation is the reverse. Here's a better look at what it looks like, but it is cheaper in the first link (at least before shipping, tax etc.) www.carparts.com/details/Ford/F-150/Motorcraft/Cruise_Control_Switch/2008/XLT/8_Cyl_4-dot-6L/MISW6546.html
Can u sand me your nr i would like to ask u sumthing about my care ford E150 1992 USA thank u for your time
Hey Jozef. You can contact me at gooseautoworks@gmail.com
Didn't fix mine.
What year?
@@GooseAutoWorks 1994 F350