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I believe it should. ‘97 to early ‘04 should be pretty interchangeable for most parts.

Here you can find the “F150” and “Raptor” badges although the appliqué version of the “Raptor” badge says discontinued. It looks like just the appliqué-delete version is available. That said you can plug that part number into a search and you might find one floating around on eBay or something. It’s hard to think Ford just stopped altogether, and it states it’s included if you buy the whole appliqué, but without trying to order one, I can just go off what I see. www.tascaparts.com/v-2017-ford-f-150--raptor--3-5l-v6-gas/body--exterior-trim-tail-gate

Char tips work too, I had some old crutches

I have links for everything in the video description.

I know. That was my fault, sorry.

It should fit. I’ve actually used this one on a Ford Edge and a Lincoln MKX. Idk why Amazon is saying it doesn’t fit now. To double check I looked at the OEM P/N’s. They are the same as one another.

Appreciate that thank you

As long as power is actually run to that location, sure.

Two things. I do have a tune, and this in no way will have any ill effects on the engine. Neither air nor fuel is being increased or decreased. You’re simply venting already metered air to atmosphere and removing devices that Ford ended up removing later anyway.

@@GooseAutoWorks you’re taking air that was vented to the intake and venting it to the atmosphere no?

@davidmiller571 yes. You’re correct, and to each their own. For me personally, running slightly rich for a second or less (which is more favorable than running lean) is not worth the concern. I also have catch cans and have never gotten a CEL related to the mod. I hear you, and it’s a fair point. Personally, I don’t know that the risk outweighs the fun factor.

@@GooseAutoWorks There is a ton of information out there explaining why this bad for your engine.

My passengers and I can definitely tell. Not saying you’re wrong. Just that personally it’s very obvious.

On your truck I believe it’s a blue and white switch, behind the brake pedal in the foot well. But it sounds like it’s a brake issue. Not cruise. Check your fluid level and if it seems to be leaking. If it’s full and in good shape it may be your booster. It shouldn’t be difficult to press the brakes. You can also test the booster by pushing in and holding on the brake. It shouldn’t sink while you’re holding. Also you can test it with the truck off. You should have about 1 and a half good presses with your foot before it gets firm. If you don’t have that or if you feel a sinking feeling or hear air squeaking or hissing your booster is bad. You can also make sure the vacuum hose leading to it is fully seated and not leaking. In that case you may also have a check engine light for a vacuum leak.

I started to, but to make it work I would’ve needed the donor’s GEM module for security features as well to make it work. I got part way ripping the harness out and just decided I didn’t want to mess with it. That said I have a whole donor I’m going to be taking an engine from and I plan to swap over as many things from that vehicle as I possibly can.

@@GooseAutoWorks oh okay. The car you were doing up didn't have the BODY wiring loom for electric windows to start with? By security, do you mean the bcm/ecu(pcm)? I had a vy commodore s2 sedan (forget what they are called in the usa), n just got a wagon (same). The wagon was front electric, window winders in rear. I checked wiring (under console, and into door) n they had the same. So grabbed the internals from sedan and put in wagon.. bingo.. upgrade :) (I found your video looking for "how to align".. n now and going to look for that video you mention bout painting hehe) (If anyone reads this and wanting an easy tip to drill out rivets... use self tapping screws/bolts.. soooooo much quicker and efficient than using a drill bit)

@w0lfm4n43 the GEM is the Generic Electronics Module. It talks with the BCM, but also handles things like anti-theft and it controls things like the door locks and windows. In this example anyway. The Commodore sedan would be like our Pontiac G8.

No. That’s how I started down this path to begin with. The GT350 calipers are a radial mount so it’s a different style. You’d have to make a custom bracket of some sort to get them to mount. And even then with the current knuckle I’m not sure there’s be enough space to actually have everything fit without heavily modifying that too.

A tune is a great, easy and cost effective way to wake these things up a lot!

@@GooseAutoWorkswhat kind of tune? And can you give me an update on the vta mod since you’ve done it? Thank you

@rc_anykine8840 right now just a base performance tune from Diablo Sport. Looking to get a Goose Tune at some point. I’ve personally had zero issues or negative effects since the mod.

It should, yeah. You’d need the bench seat with pan and its mounting brackets. You’ll have to plug a hole or two you’re no longer using after the switch, but I don’t see a problem with being able to do it.

Well in addition to the console itself and its 2 mounting brackets, you’ll need the Expedition pan and the mounting brackets to the floor.

Oh interesting. lol thanks for the info

Glad to hear it, although I’m jealous of your 2 Lightnings lol

It can, yes. Because that sensor on the master cylinder leaks brake fluid and because the levels can get too low your ABS light can certainly come on. Mine did. After the fix and filling it with fresh fluid it had stayed off.

Kinda a long story. Before I could get footage of the final product a rock hit it and damaged a section of it. I fixed it, but that area had a chemical reaction with the new clear coat I used. Then I cracked a piston in the engine so it’s been in storage until I can just do a bumper to bumper restoration on it. Maybe start sometime after the new year.

Thanks Man. Between the repair, painting and install I worked pretty hard on this project and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

I’m really not too sure. $400-$600 maybe?

These are the 20” AMR’s from American Muscle. They’re a 30mm offset and 150.7mm backspacing. Most 19” wheels seem to work as well.

I’m going to a say no. At least not from the top. Even with the fan gone, you’ve got to be pretty careful and rotate the alternator around a bit to get it out. It’s a tight fit.

@@GooseAutoWorks damn, well i guess shes getting someone else to do it so crisis averted, everything is going wrong with this pos car

Maybe, but I don’t think so. Since it’s the housing the glass is attached to that’s actually making the seal, and that housing is further in than the outer edge of the glass, you would probably have a hard time getting all the way around, on top of potentially making a mess. And going around just the outside of the trim won’t really do anything. The trim isn’t responsible for any real sealing to speak of.

Rather have 2 for both banks than a Y into 1 from both banks that is prone to failure

I'd have to say that you are wrong. Well most of these videos just talk about putting one on the passenger side and saying that's where all the problem is, I happen to be working on an F-150 with a 3.5 EcoBoost for a customer right now and it has a substantial amount of oil in the intake tubes on the drivers side, making dual catch cans an absolute necessity.

I actually did an oil change over the weekend and was surprised how much oil was captured in the “clean side”. Still nothing like what was in the other one, but still managed to get something at least.

Also just checked my 23’ and it doesn’t have the “silencer” anti vortex things in it

Yeah, maybe. I’m not sure how the charged air temp compares to under hood atmosphere air.

They removed these in ‘21 I believe

@@GooseAutoWorksit has to be higher it’s inevitable. By design turbo charger air is higher due to running through a mechanical device that uses hot exhaust gases to function. But like I said the difference in the intake would be minimal at best

@user-ym2jj1zy4zshow me what you’re talking about because charged air is always hotter

No, not at all. If there is any negative effect, it’s negligible. And the fun turbo noises make up for it anyway lol

Good luck. It should be a pretty similar process for you I would think.

If you don’t have any power run to it yet, you need to tap into something that has power when the key is in the on position. Check your manual or online to see what fuses would work. You can do something like like the radio or fuel pump. You can add a fuse jumper like I did in the video. I would imagine you’d need the factory lifting mechanism as well. In my case the factory system wouldn’t work without also having a matching factory security module. Meaning if I took the harness from a different truck I would’ve needed to get that module as well.

@@GooseAutoWorks can i get your whatsapp?

@@GooseAutoWorks hi, can I get your whatapps pls

@@GooseAutoWorks hi, thank you sir. Do you have any social media can message pls

How’s your fluid level? I had to tap on my reservoir to get the float to unstick. As far as the cruise light outs possible there’s a loose solder connection on the cluster’s pcb, but I’m not really sure. That’s weird.

Just trying to explain for everyone. Thanks for watching.