FINALLY!!!! I had been thinking about doing this and could not find anyone who covered switching out the door panels and using the aftermarket window kit. I would like to attempt to connect to the original controls. I went to the junkyard and removed the 4 panels from the car, left the harnesses attached and just cut them off. Hopefully I can find the wiring diagram to assist. Thanks!
Glad to be of some help. I wanted to use the factory switches too, but laziness got the better of me. I was going to use the whole harness and everything but find out it wouldn’t work without the GEM from the donor truck. I have plans of redoing all the electronics and drivetrain though down the line.
So the "Driver" factory window switch did not work out because it was programmed to talk to the BCM, but I found some switches that looked "close" to OEM and had to cut out the trim some to fit but it def looks better than if I kept the door panel with the hole where the gear sat then mounting a big ugly block to it 😂. I was just so glad I found your video. I'm happy! 😁
Not to be that guy.. But in practice I've found the adda fuse is great in combination with a relay. Go direct 12v battery with the #30 and then use the add a fuse from trigger switch . Especially when it is a keyless entry:)
Great video. I didn’t even know this was an option. I there an automatic cutoff when the window reaches the top/bottom or do you have to release the switch so as not to damage the motor?
No different from the first day as far as I can tell. The passenger side could use some lubrication. I think since it was never used as much the internals are a bit bound up. But it hasn’t deteriorated over time.
Same reason for changing, The reach over. I want to convert from manual to power door lock, mirrors and windows for a 1999 Ford 250 Econoline van, where can i order the kit? THANX again.
The kit for the windows is linked in the description. As far as the door locks, that might require you to have the wiring harness and GEM module from a donor truck. The windows and locks are linked into the factory security system and so it all needs to talk to one another.
Is the driver side the same regarding connectors etc ?, I want to convert my 90 240sx from manual to power window, I have all the original wiring, buttons, regulator etc and what to use at least the original buttons. But wanne know if the driver side even supports I think 6 wires, 12v, ground, up, down, passenger up, down
They’re similar. The pin outs may be different because the passenger side controls just that one window, but on the driver side you’ll have 2 dedicated switches which should look the same. From what I remember, the driver side has the same wiring but two wires for up and down for the passenger window is run across to the driver side switches as well as a ground for that switch. If you’re able to find a wire diagram for the power windows for the 240, that would be helpful considering you’re using original wiring. When you start getting into things like one push down/up functions you start adding more wires, but if the switches are basic in their functionality like these, it should be pretty straightforward. So if the switches are a 5 post connector it will be pretty simple to know what to do. I’m not sure if that answers quite what you were looking for, but I’ll help where I can.
@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks man appreciate it. Gonna give it a shot when I have everything, otherwise I will probably buy the universal kit and go from there. Now just to find what is what on the original buttons haha
@tuned4life I will say I started to go this route myself, but learned I would need the GEM computer from the donor vehicle which is the security system module, and I would have to rip out/change more things than I wanted to. Being a pre OBD-II car, idk if that simplifies things for you or not, but something else to look into before you get too deep.
@@GooseAutoWorks yeah I think I have everything needed and figured out how to do this conversion, just need to do the wiring The whole system is based on 4/5 wires and ofc 12v and ground Driver : Up, down Driver/passenger : up, down I think I just need to start with a FSM next to me and then it will all fall into place haha
I've been wondering how to do the opposite: I need a manual window passenger door and all I can seem to find is power. Would that be difficult to convert?
I would imagine you would need to change out the door panel and you would need to change out the gearing and lift mechanism to match with the manual crank.
Late I know.. but I'm curious... If you got the door cards off a electric car... why didn't you get the electric windows motors from that? Certainly is less messing about.
I started to, but to make it work I would’ve needed the donor’s GEM module for security features as well to make it work. I got part way ripping the harness out and just decided I didn’t want to mess with it. That said I have a whole donor I’m going to be taking an engine from and I plan to swap over as many things from that vehicle as I possibly can.
@@GooseAutoWorks oh okay. The car you were doing up didn't have the BODY wiring loom for electric windows to start with? By security, do you mean the bcm/ecu(pcm)? I had a vy commodore s2 sedan (forget what they are called in the usa), n just got a wagon (same). The wagon was front electric, window winders in rear. I checked wiring (under console, and into door) n they had the same. So grabbed the internals from sedan and put in wagon.. bingo.. upgrade :) (I found your video looking for "how to align".. n now and going to look for that video you mention bout painting hehe) (If anyone reads this and wanting an easy tip to drill out rivets... use self tapping screws/bolts.. soooooo much quicker and efficient than using a drill bit)
@w0lfm4n43 the GEM is the Generic Electronics Module. It talks with the BCM, but also handles things like anti-theft and it controls things like the door locks and windows. In this example anyway. The Commodore sedan would be like our Pontiac G8.
I got the console from eBay, but it was out of an Expedition. The door panels were from a Supercab F-150 at a pick and pull yard. There were Expeditions there too with consoles. I wasn’t thinking about the pick and pull place when I ordered the console online. It was way cheaper at the junkyard. I did buy a seat out of one of the Expeditions though since I needed the seat pan and bracket for the console swap.
If you don’t have any power run to it yet, you need to tap into something that has power when the key is in the on position. Check your manual or online to see what fuses would work. You can do something like like the radio or fuel pump. You can add a fuse jumper like I did in the video. I would imagine you’d need the factory lifting mechanism as well. In my case the factory system wouldn’t work without also having a matching factory security module. Meaning if I took the harness from a different truck I would’ve needed to get that module as well.
I’m really not sure. I was tracking down a knock and put a borescope down each cylinder when I found it. My best guess was it was oil (or lack thereof) related, but not too sure other than that. I’m going to either swap in a long block from a Gen 2 Lightning or a Coyote 5.0, but I haven’t fully decided yet.
Well I pulled these door panels from a truck with factory electric windows and they attach just the same. As far as the switches, I took one of the factory ones apart, and looked at the wiring schematics online, but to be honest I couldn’t quite figure out how I would need to repin the harness/switch to make them work. I’m sure if I put more effort into it, I could get it done though. It’s just a switch, it’s pretty straightforward, I just didn’t feel like messing with it at the time.
Oh Dang. Yeah it’s weird they did that. You can still do the method I used, you’ll just have to go through the firewall to the fuse box under the hood. Not ideal, but still doable. There should be a grommet or 2 you can use to pass through to the other side.
Well regardless of what switch you decide to use, you’ll need to get power to the motor. The easiest way is using the fuse jumper like I used. It’s clean and gives the motors their own fuse.
I mean you probably could although I’m sure that’s not a popular choice lol. You’d have to swap the internals. The lift assembly would be different. You might have an issue with the security module as the power windows are tied onto that computer.
No. I looked into it, and even started taking a wiring harness out from a truck at the junk yard, but abandoned the plan. It’s possible to make it work, but you need the factory wiring harness to the doors and the GEM module for the security system to allow it to operate. If you already have power locks it should be much more straightforward, maybe just repining a connector or something, but in my case it was more trouble than it was worth to me.
The kit and the process is universal, but I’m not familiar enough with the interior of Wrangler doors to say if this process works. If they’re not removable, then yes. If they are, they have contact patches instead of wires running through the door and into the cabin.
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FINALLY!!!! I had been thinking about doing this and could not find anyone who covered switching out the door panels and using the aftermarket window kit. I would like to attempt to connect to the original controls. I went to the junkyard and removed the 4 panels from the car, left the harnesses attached and just cut them off. Hopefully I can find the wiring diagram to assist. Thanks!
Glad to be of some help. I wanted to use the factory switches too, but laziness got the better of me. I was going to use the whole harness and everything but find out it wouldn’t work without the GEM from the donor truck. I have plans of redoing all the electronics and drivetrain though down the line.
So the "Driver" factory window switch did not work out because it was programmed to talk to the BCM, but I found some switches that looked "close" to OEM and had to cut out the trim some to fit but it def looks better than if I kept the door panel with the hole where the gear sat then mounting a big ugly block to it 😂. I was just so glad I found your video. I'm happy! 😁
Thanks! That’s awesome to hear! I’m glad I was able to help. Enjoy!
By the way great video I’m doing this over the weekend 👍🏼
Not to be that guy..
But in practice I've found the adda fuse is great in combination with a relay.
Go direct 12v battery with the #30 and then use the add a fuse from trigger switch .
Especially when it is a keyless entry:)
Not “that guy” at all. Thanks for the insight.
Love this going to do this to my 2003 ranger !!!!!!!
Good luck. It should be a pretty similar process for you I would think.
Peace and THANX for sharing
Absolutely. Thanks for watching
Great video. I didn’t even know this was an option. I there an automatic cutoff when the window reaches the top/bottom or do you have to release the switch so as not to damage the motor?
Thank you! It stops on its own, but presumably because it has a max force limit, so I don’t hold the button any longer than I need to.
@@GooseAutoWorks great. Thank you for your reply.
I wanna do this to mine just if the motor goes out do I Gatta buy another kit every time
Could you tell me where you purchased the window switches I see some on Amazon but I’m not sure if those are it could you tell me please thank you
Here you go: amzn.to/3oFRzuX
Great video! Super helpful. Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you.
No problem! I’m glad it was useful
How have they held up in the past year? I was thinking about buying the same kit and I'm curious about the longevity of the product.
No different from the first day as far as I can tell. The passenger side could use some lubrication. I think since it was never used as much the internals are a bit bound up. But it hasn’t deteriorated over time.
Thanks, I was wondering the same thing...
If my car has an empty fuse spot for power windows could I put it on there ?
As long as power is actually run to that location, sure.
I have a 97 f150 would a newer door panel work? Like an 99-03
I believe it should. ‘97 to early ‘04 should be pretty interchangeable for most parts.
Same reason for changing, The reach over. I want to convert from manual to power door lock, mirrors and windows for a 1999 Ford 250 Econoline van, where can i order the kit? THANX again.
The kit for the windows is linked in the description. As far as the door locks, that might require you to have the wiring harness and GEM module from a donor truck. The windows and locks are linked into the factory security system and so it all needs to talk to one another.
I need to do this my 99 is base. Where did you get the kit? How much was it? Great video it's inspiring.
Thanks! I’ve got links to everything in the video description. When I bought it, it was $50 or $60. It looks like now it’s about $70.
Is the driver side the same regarding connectors etc ?, I want to convert my 90 240sx from manual to power window, I have all the original wiring, buttons, regulator etc and what to use at least the original buttons.
But wanne know if the driver side even supports I think 6 wires, 12v, ground, up, down, passenger up, down
They’re similar. The pin outs may be different because the passenger side controls just that one window, but on the driver side you’ll have 2 dedicated switches which should look the same. From what I remember, the driver side has the same wiring but two wires for up and down for the passenger window is run across to the driver side switches as well as a ground for that switch. If you’re able to find a wire diagram for the power windows for the 240, that would be helpful considering you’re using original wiring. When you start getting into things like one push down/up functions you start adding more wires, but if the switches are basic in their functionality like these, it should be pretty straightforward. So if the switches are a 5 post connector it will be pretty simple to know what to do. I’m not sure if that answers quite what you were looking for, but I’ll help where I can.
@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks man appreciate it.
Gonna give it a shot when I have everything, otherwise I will probably buy the universal kit and go from there.
Now just to find what is what on the original buttons haha
@tuned4life I will say I started to go this route myself, but learned I would need the GEM computer from the donor vehicle which is the security system module, and I would have to rip out/change more things than I wanted to. Being a pre OBD-II car, idk if that simplifies things for you or not, but something else to look into before you get too deep.
@@GooseAutoWorks yeah I think I have everything needed and figured out how to do this conversion, just need to do the wiring
The whole system is based on 4/5 wires and ofc 12v and ground
Driver : Up, down
Driver/passenger : up, down
I think I just need to start with a FSM next to me and then it will all fall into place haha
I've been wondering how to do the opposite: I need a manual window passenger door and all I can seem to find is power. Would that be difficult to convert?
I would imagine you would need to change out the door panel and you would need to change out the gearing and lift mechanism to match with the manual crank.
Late I know.. but I'm curious...
If you got the door cards off a electric car... why didn't you get the electric windows motors from that?
Certainly is less messing about.
I started to, but to make it work I would’ve needed the donor’s GEM module for security features as well to make it work. I got part way ripping the harness out and just decided I didn’t want to mess with it. That said I have a whole donor I’m going to be taking an engine from and I plan to swap over as many things from that vehicle as I possibly can.
@@GooseAutoWorks oh okay. The car you were doing up didn't have the BODY wiring loom for electric windows to start with?
By security, do you mean the bcm/ecu(pcm)?
I had a vy commodore s2 sedan (forget what they are called in the usa), n just got a wagon (same).
The wagon was front electric, window winders in rear.
I checked wiring (under console, and into door) n they had the same.
So grabbed the internals from sedan and put in wagon.. bingo.. upgrade :)
(I found your video looking for "how to align".. n now and going to look for that video you mention bout painting hehe)
(If anyone reads this and wanting an easy tip to drill out rivets... use self tapping screws/bolts.. soooooo much quicker and efficient than using a drill bit)
@w0lfm4n43 the GEM is the Generic Electronics Module. It talks with the BCM, but also handles things like anti-theft and it controls things like the door locks and windows. In this example anyway. The Commodore sedan would be like our Pontiac G8.
What vehicles were the door panels and console removed from to fit your single cab f150??
I got the console from eBay, but it was out of an Expedition. The door panels were from a Supercab F-150 at a pick and pull yard. There were Expeditions there too with consoles. I wasn’t thinking about the pick and pull place when I ordered the console online. It was way cheaper at the junkyard. I did buy a seat out of one of the Expeditions though since I needed the seat pan and bracket for the console swap.
Thanks Man 😊
Hi, how do i get power for 2006 toyota matrix? I bought the factory power one, install everything but i did not have any power. Pls help
If you don’t have any power run to it yet, you need to tap into something that has power when the key is in the on position. Check your manual or online to see what fuses would work. You can do something like like the radio or fuel pump. You can add a fuse jumper like I did in the video. I would imagine you’d need the factory lifting mechanism as well. In my case the factory system wouldn’t work without also having a matching factory security module. Meaning if I took the harness from a different truck I would’ve needed to get that module as well.
@@GooseAutoWorks can i get your whatsapp?
@@GooseAutoWorks hi, can I get your whatapps pls
@@GooseAutoWorks hi, thank you sir. Do you have any social media can message pls
How’s the 25 amp and the 30 amp did it blow?
The truck’s been down since the summer with a cracked piston so it’s in storage. But in the time I was using it everything was doing just fine.
@@GooseAutoWorks geez how did your piston crack?
I’m really not sure. I was tracking down a knock and put a borescope down each cylinder when I found it. My best guess was it was oil (or lack thereof) related, but not too sure other than that. I’m going to either swap in a long block from a Gen 2 Lightning or a Coyote 5.0, but I haven’t fully decided yet.
I'm also planning to install power windonw on my car, do you know how many amps is the fuse that it came with the kit?
It calls for a 30, but I used a 25. I’d rather it be slightly under than the other way around. But I don’t remember if the kit came with fuses or not.
@@GooseAutoWorks thanks man, still working good up to now?
@ryanydc6237 Well the truck has a cracked piston so it’s been in storage since last summer, but everything was working just fine at that point.
The black wire is the ground and the red wire with its own fuse is the power ?
Typically, yes. Just make sure everything else follows that same convention and polarity
Do you know if the doors are the same for electric and non electric? I would like make mine electric but with all oem parts
Well I pulled these door panels from a truck with factory electric windows and they attach just the same. As far as the switches, I took one of the factory ones apart, and looked at the wiring schematics online, but to be honest I couldn’t quite figure out how I would need to repin the harness/switch to make them work. I’m sure if I put more effort into it, I could get it done though. It’s just a switch, it’s pretty straightforward, I just didn’t feel like messing with it at the time.
My problem is that my vehicle does not have an interior fuse box . 2001 Chrysler Voyager .
Oh Dang. Yeah it’s weird they did that. You can still do the method I used, you’ll just have to go through the firewall to the fuse box under the hood. Not ideal, but still doable. There should be a grommet or 2 you can use to pass through to the other side.
@@GooseAutoWorks I have the base model . If I don't convert oem style , do I still need the jumper ?
Well regardless of what switch you decide to use, you’ll need to get power to the motor. The easiest way is using the fuse jumper like I used. It’s clean and gives the motors their own fuse.
@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks
Absolutely. Good luck!
okay but can anyone tell me if you can go from power to manual windows ?
I mean you probably could although I’m sure that’s not a popular choice lol. You’d have to swap the internals. The lift assembly would be different. You might have an issue with the security module as the power windows are tied onto that computer.
Have you done the lock/unlock?
No. I looked into it, and even started taking a wiring harness out from a truck at the junk yard, but abandoned the plan. It’s possible to make it work, but you need the factory wiring harness to the doors and the GEM module for the security system to allow it to operate. If you already have power locks it should be much more straightforward, maybe just repining a connector or something, but in my case it was more trouble than it was worth to me.
Hi does this work in jeep Wrangler 2008
The kit and the process is universal, but I’m not familiar enough with the interior of Wrangler doors to say if this process works. If they’re not removable, then yes. If they are, they have contact patches instead of wires running through the door and into the cabin.