i don't subscribe to many people at all but after getting a diode laser and hearing all the snot head c02 users say all kind of junk about what we cant do, i'm glad i found your channel
I've learned a great deal from this video in my quest to etch acrylic mirror tiles. New things about lightburn I didn't know about in a whole year of using it (renewed subscription 2 weeks ago). Appreciate the vid.👍
Hands down winner on the tempura paint and a lot less time. If one is doing a batch run of coasters air brushing the tempura paint would be a fast way to paint. I vote for the tempura and that's what I will be using. Great video and informative ! Cheers.
I am a beginner and a little frustrated at times. Thank you for explaining without all of the unnecessary hype...straight to the point. Again, thank you.
I am new to the craft.... lets just say I have heard 3 ways... gal spray, tempera paint and cardstock.... also reversing side...... so far ... I realized I already have tempera paint (My wifes crafts), used that.... no reason to change. thanks for getting straight to the point and reinforcing my experience.
If I ever get 40w laser, I'll go back to cold galvi because it gives the best white. Until then, tempera is the only way to go in my book. (Without buying a ridiculously overpriced can of laser spray)
Thanks for the comparison... at timepoint 20:24, you say that the 354 DPI for tempura was "higher" than the optimal DPI for cold galvi, but I could not find an explicit statement for the final DPI settings for cold galvi. can you show a screen shot of the "cut setting editor" for your final cold galvi run? (or report out the details in a reply?) THANKS!
Of course the lines are more crisper on the one with the tempera paint because the dpi settings are higher than the one on the galvi...Galvenized paint can come with water also, water and scotch pad.The best way to do these,or even for tiles too...Is to let the tempera or the paint dry for 24hrs before engraving...If you dry it with a heat gun it looks dry but not completely dry...All in all great video!!
May I add that if you use flat black high heat paint the kind used to paint stove pipes...You will be amazed by the color the etching will leave...It will come out either dark gold or a bronze color. It is very important to let the paint dry 24hrs before etching. Do a test pattern to see all the different shades.
I usually use the cold galvanising. But I'm not sure why you need the chem to clean up the cold galv. I use water and it easily cleans off glass. I'd say it comes off as easy as the tempura maybe even easier. I'll need to look at my test grids again. Some how I didn't notice that the cold galvanising was so much slower.
I appreciate your videos AND your mistakes. Both teach us a lot!!!! To me, the white on the Cold Galvi isn't worth the extra hour and a half burn time.
I do not have a 20w diode, so i can't give you that answer. I always suggest that you do a speed/power test, even if using the same wattage laser I have/use. My 5/10/33/36W lasers may be more or less powerful than the exact same laser someone else has. With that said, I do mention the settings I used on the 10W in the video. Best of luck!
,well i have a question. I am thinking that you get the more white effect cause of the whitness of the tio2 . Its a whitening agent after all. How about using raw tio2 or spaying it before you die it black? I am guessing that the black absorbs light more and thats why it's faster.
Thanks, So you do the image in threshold? That is what I am trying to figure out thanks for this. Doing Glass ware for the VFW, lots of Letters. Take care
I"m not doing them as photos. I use svg files, so there is no threshold or jarvis or any of the other choices for photos. If it's a logo with text, you might try to import it into lightburn and then right click and trace. But it needs to be a good quality image to do that.
@@LaserNoob thanks for answering. Im used to a 2000watt fiber to cut metals and just got this 50w to play around but glass engrave is not dark/black enough
I've tried with my Ortur OLM3 with Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint, 400ml (13.5-oz) Bottle, Titanium White, it give you a black color on your glass, I've tried it on Coffee glass and ordinary glass and work fine, I don't have the Blue Laser, I don't know if it exist on Ortur
learned lots from you. I have a question, you use poster board under acrylic with tempera but not with glass. is this something you found after experimentation or is it just different with the acrylic? thanks in advance, P.S. FJB LGB
I'm using the ortur laser master 2 5.5W laser. I use the tempera paint as well. what would you recommend me to set the speed and power at for this job? Nice video thanks for explaining!
i've try engrave on glass using tempera paint for about 6hours. and result pretty good. but got problem when try to clean tempera paint. its not cleaned 100% on some point. how i can totally clean the tempera paint and make glass not look dirty cz of tempera paint?
i've just bought me a sculpfun s9 , Diode Laser Power 5.5-6W just learnt to engrave wood but cant seem to get it to engrave on glass any help you could forward to me would be very much ppreciated. i enjoy the vids , keep em coming thank you
Dip or spray your glass in black tempera paint. Then run a speed / power test grid. That's the only sure way to get the right settings for your laser. It will be slow on a 5w, so be prepared for long burn times.
@@LaserNoob thank you for your time and reply , got me a few cheap mirrors today ,so going to try them out , hopefully i'll get it right , i'll let you know , thanks again ENJOY.
@@LaserNoob Thank you very much my good man , everything that you Have told me i have tried and my workings have turned out brilliantly , i am so happy , i've never used a laser engraver in me life , i've only been using it for a day , i wish you all the best in life , god bless you my good man , take care , all the best from the UK.
In my experience, tempura is very fragile, and often cracks when it dries. I like it better as it's easier to clean...but the cracking and fragility is frustrating sometimes.
Hello sir, I’ve tried everything with my laser to get the same results as you but it’s not working I have the yorahome 6550 15 watt diode laser. I painted the acrylic with chalk paint. I tried all kinds of speeds and power but it’s not getting the white finish .
Paint your acrylic with black tempera paint. Let it completely dry. Then try around 15% power and 40mm/s. Doing a speed power test grid will get you the settings close.
If you coat one piece of glass with paint and then place a second piece of glass on top of the first piece, you can slowly drag the top piece of glass sideways toward you, keeping it flat until it comes all the way off the bottom piece. The entire top of the bottom piece of glass will now have a completely smooth and even, coating of paint on it.
It certainly can. I suggest you run a power/speed test to see what setting will look best on your laser. Lasers vary in power. My 10w may be more or less powerful than your 10w.
I never measured the thickness to be honest. It makes no difference if they are thick or thin, only that there is some sort of coating for the laser to hit.
@@LaserNoob did you use the same application method? I believe I saw someone using an inexpensive harbor freight airbrush to get an even coat. I think it was poppa's workshop. Thanks for the great video, subscribed.
Excellent content! I have an xTOOL D1 Pro 10W and, even subscribed to your channel so I don't miss anything. In my opinion, Tempera Ink was the winner here; although, I don't know where to find it because, I live in Brazil. Something similar? Thanks
I'm glad you like the video. I hope you find it useful. As far as the tempera paint goes, check your local art / craft stores. I hope you find some and can get some glass done!
@@LaserNoob ???? Then why did the BLACK Tempura paint provide a WHITE burn??? YUP, the black Tempura paint absorbed the laser heat, caused micro-fractures, and the resulting "white" finish.... so there 🙂
@@LaserNoob I know that, but higher power/faster passes, creating more "heat exposure" might be beneficial. Figured you maybe could give it a shot or I will hopefully in the next few months when I get mine.
@PijanySamuraj I recently received an A5 m50 Pro to test. I'm starting on that video today and should have it up by Friday at the latest. But the short answer is yes, I believe so. It'll take longer, but it should be possible. That test is one I will be running!
Not sure if you're being a smart ass or not, but cold galvi is a common term in the HVAC industry which I have been in for 30 years. If you just want to be a smart ass, consider yourself educated while you feck off.
I just wanna hear you keep saying ‘tempura’ 🍤 I will say though too, that far and away tempera paint is the go to for etching items with a diode laser.
Using an airbrush ~.5mm nozzle, is the ONLY way to get an EVEN coating. Then, reapply several coats for a thicker total coat which seems to work best for me....
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
i don't subscribe to many people at all but after getting a diode laser and hearing all the snot head c02 users say all kind of junk about what we cant do, i'm glad i found your channel
Thank you for watching and I hope you continue to find the content useful!
I've learned a great deal from this video in my quest to etch acrylic mirror tiles. New things about lightburn I didn't know about in a whole year of using it (renewed subscription 2 weeks ago). Appreciate the vid.👍
I use water and a scrubby to clean off cold galvanizing compound. I liked the way you did the paint, no brush strokes, how cool!
Great tip!
Thank you so much for the info and your time, I'm a Diode laser beginner but I can't thank you enough for the spark you just gave me!.
I'm glad you found it useful. Enjoy your laser adventures!
Just getting into laser . Looks great, thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Welcome to the addiction, my friend!
Hands down winner on the tempura paint and a lot less time. If one is doing a batch run of coasters air brushing the tempura paint would be a fast way to paint. I vote for the tempura and that's what I will be using. Great video and informative ! Cheers.
I am a beginner and a little frustrated at times. Thank you for explaining without all of the unnecessary hype...straight to the point. Again, thank you.
Feel free to ask questions. I'll answer what I can!
@@LaserNoob Does the engraving settings change when using the xTool Creative Space instead of Lightburn?
Power and speed settings should not change between programs.
@@LaserNoob Thank you
So easy to understand and follow !! Love these viedos
Thank you!!
Thanks. I'll try the Tempera Paint. I have a 10 watt Snapmaker Artisan. Jim Bell (Australia)
I am new to the craft.... lets just say I have heard 3 ways... gal spray, tempera paint and cardstock.... also reversing side...... so far ... I realized I already have tempera paint (My wifes crafts), used that.... no reason to change. thanks for getting straight to the point and reinforcing my experience.
If I ever get 40w laser, I'll go back to cold galvi because it gives the best white. Until then, tempera is the only way to go in my book. (Without buying a ridiculously overpriced can of laser spray)
Thank you!!! I don't know why so many creators don't say much if anything about how long the burn / cut takes.
Damn you are no noob sir, these are SKILLZ! You saved me from going for a CO2, a diode covers all my needs now. Thank you great video.
It's about time. If you got it, a 5w will do. If not a 40w. Also, $$$.
I did another glass video with an atomstack 5w. :)
I experimented with dry erase marker with the clear acrylic works pretty well I think it also works on glass as well.
Thanks for the comparison... at timepoint 20:24, you say that the 354 DPI for tempura was "higher" than the optimal DPI for cold galvi, but I could not find an explicit statement for the final DPI settings for cold galvi. can you show a screen shot of the "cut setting editor" for your final cold galvi run? (or report out the details in a reply?) THANKS!
Great video, I'm new beginner to use Laser engraving . 2:34 What liquid in the clip is used to mix with Tempera paint? Thank you in advance
I thin it with water.
Of course the lines are more crisper on the one with the tempera paint because the dpi settings are higher than the one on the galvi...Galvenized paint can come with water also, water and scotch pad.The best way to do these,or even for tiles too...Is to let the tempera or the paint dry for 24hrs before engraving...If you dry it with a heat gun it looks dry but not completely dry...All in all great video!!
May I add that if you use flat black high heat paint the kind used to paint stove pipes...You will be amazed by the color the etching will leave...It will come out either dark gold or a bronze color. It is very important to let the paint dry 24hrs before etching. Do a test pattern to see all the different shades.
I usually use the cold galvanising. But I'm not sure why you need the chem to clean up the cold galv. I use water and it easily cleans off glass. I'd say it comes off as easy as the tempura maybe even easier. I'll need to look at my test grids again. Some how I didn't notice that the cold galvanising was so much slower.
A friend just showed me the dipping paint method. I'm putting away my air brush. Thanks
That's a good friend! lol
Great information. Could you use white tempura paint or do you have to use black?
Black, to get the white frosted look.
I appreciate your videos AND your mistakes. Both teach us a lot!!!! To me, the white on the Cold Galvi isn't worth the extra hour and a half burn time.
Agreed! And thank you
To get a cleaner edge/outline, you might do a line after fill.
From the videos I've seen, and I'm new, it seems that should be the norm.🤷♂
I think I liked the tempura method better. Thanks for sharing such cool info.
It is certainly much faster!
Great tutorial! One question only: What parameters should I choose for a 20w diode laser?
I do not have a 20w diode, so i can't give you that answer. I always suggest that you do a speed/power test, even if using the same wattage laser I have/use. My 5/10/33/36W lasers may be more or less powerful than the exact same laser someone else has. With that said, I do mention the settings I used on the 10W in the video. Best of luck!
Ok! Thank you for your prompt reply! @@LaserNoob
I just found this video. Great job very detailed. Can I do this same procedure with plexiglass?
Close to the same. ruclips.net/video/YCuMsZ9hQ4Q/видео.html
,well i have a question. I am thinking that you get the more white effect cause of the whitness of the tio2 . Its a whitening agent after all. How about using raw tio2 or spaying it before you die it black? I am guessing that the black absorbs light more and thats why it's faster.
Thanks so much for the informative video! Have you ever tried a smooth glass cylinder block like you can get at a Hobby Store?
I have not tried one of those. I've done several jars, glasses and plates though.
Thanks, So you do the image in threshold? That is what I am trying to figure out thanks for this. Doing Glass ware for the VFW, lots of Letters. Take care
I"m not doing them as photos. I use svg files, so there is no threshold or jarvis or any of the other choices for photos. If it's a logo with text, you might try to import it into lightburn and then right click and trace. But it needs to be a good quality image to do that.
Thanks a Mil, I appreciate your time Sir Take care@@LaserNoob
this might be a comment on a old post but, I am having a hard time getting the same kind of quality on the engraving on glass using a 50w fiber
I have never used a fiber laser. So I unfortunately can't help you with that. Sorry!
@@LaserNoob thanks for answering. Im used to a 2000watt fiber to cut metals and just got this 50w to play around but glass engrave is not dark/black enough
EXCELENTEEEE!!! MUCHAS GRACIAS POR COMPARTIR
De nada, amigo!
I've tried with my Ortur OLM3 with Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint, 400ml (13.5-oz) Bottle, Titanium White, it give you a black color on your glass, I've tried it on Coffee glass and ordinary glass and work fine, I don't have the Blue Laser, I don't know if it exist on Ortur
The Ortur Laser Master 3 emits a 445nm laser. 445 is a blue diode laser.
learned lots from you. I have a question, you use poster board under acrylic with tempera but not with glass. is this something you found after experimentation or is it just different with the acrylic?
thanks in advance,
P.S. FJB LGB
I don't use it with glass, because I etch glass from the top side. I etch acrylic on the bottom side.
I'm using the ortur laser master 2 5.5W laser. I use the tempera paint as well. what would you recommend me to set the speed and power at for this job? Nice video thanks for explaining!
I thought you were talking about acrylics, sorry. Check out my Atomstack playlist. I have a 5w glass test video.
ruclips.net/video/AUwTJOVFPPg/видео.html
i've try engrave on glass using tempera paint for about 6hours. and result pretty good. but got problem when try to clean tempera paint. its not cleaned 100% on some point. how i can totally clean the tempera paint and make glass not look dirty cz of tempera paint?
I just use warm water and a soft sponge or toothbrush
i've just bought me a sculpfun s9 , Diode Laser Power
5.5-6W just learnt to engrave wood but cant seem to get it to engrave on glass any help you could forward to me would be very much ppreciated. i enjoy the vids , keep em coming thank you
Dip or spray your glass in black tempera paint. Then run a speed / power test grid. That's the only sure way to get the right settings for your laser. It will be slow on a 5w, so be prepared for long burn times.
@@LaserNoob thank you for your time and reply , got me a few cheap mirrors today ,so going to try them out , hopefully i'll get it right , i'll let you know , thanks again ENJOY.
Mirrors are different. No coating and etch from the non reflective side only. I have a mirror video you can check out.
@@LaserNoob Thank you very much my good man , everything that you Have told me i have tried and my workings have turned out brilliantly , i am so happy , i've never used a laser engraver in me life , i've only been using it for a day , i wish you all the best in life , god bless you my good man , take care , all the best from the UK.
Best of luck in all your endeavors. Cheers, mate!!
Does thr tempera paint need to be a particular color
Black
In my experience, tempura is very fragile, and often cracks when it dries. I like it better as it's easier to clean...but the cracking and fragility is frustrating sometimes.
Yep. Gotta find the sweet spot between fully dry and cracking/peeling.
Hello sir, I’ve tried everything with my laser to get the same results as you but it’s not working I have the yorahome 6550 15 watt diode laser. I painted the acrylic with chalk paint. I tried all kinds of speeds and power but it’s not getting the white finish .
This video is for glass. Is glass what you're trying to do, or acrylic?
@@LaserNoob acrylic sir
Paint your acrylic with black tempera paint. Let it completely dry. Then try around 15% power and 40mm/s. Doing a speed power test grid will get you the settings close.
very nice
If you coat one piece of glass with paint and then place a second piece of glass on top of the first piece, you can slowly drag the top piece of glass sideways toward you, keeping it flat until it comes all the way off the bottom piece. The entire top of the bottom piece of glass will now have a completely smooth and even, coating of paint on it.
Thanks for the tip.
Why wouldn't "fast whitespace scan" be on by default? The rough edges on the jaw of the tempura are really noticeable.
It is not on by default but stays on once it is enabled.
Sir, will this ( Tempera process ) work on acrylic with different settings? Thank You.
It certainly can. I suggest you run a power/speed test to see what setting will look best on your laser. Lasers vary in power. My 10w may be more or less powerful than your 10w.
I'm not sure if you mentioned it but, what was the thickness of the glass? Would any adjustments be need for other thicknesses?
I never measured the thickness to be honest. It makes no difference if they are thick or thin, only that there is some sort of coating for the laser to hit.
If the glass is 3mm thick, you set the laser height to the surface of the glass, plus 3mm to get the laser focus on the back of the glass.
@@PileofBrass no no no.... This etching is on the FRONT/TOP of the glass, so, why focus on the back of the glass??? NO good reason....
Thanks great video.
Glad you liked it!
Hi u add 150 ml tempra paint and 50 ml water?
Any 3:1 tempera to water ratio works well.
@@LaserNoob tnks man
I have an Atomstack P7 M40 diode laser. What is the best setting for engraving on glass? Is 500 mm/s speed and 90% power correct?
What is the reason to paint the glass first? Won’t the laser just etch right onto the glass?
No. A blue diode laser will pass through clear glass and acrylics. The paint gives the laser something to hit and etch.
Have you done the tempura paint method with a glass cup or mug?
Yes. Even colored glass.
@@LaserNoob did you use the same application method? I believe I saw someone using an inexpensive harbor freight airbrush to get an even coat. I think it was poppa's workshop. Thanks for the great video, subscribed.
Nope. I dip them.
Excellent content!
I have an xTOOL D1 Pro 10W and, even subscribed to your channel so I don't miss anything.
In my opinion, Tempera Ink was the winner here; although, I don't know where to find it because, I live in Brazil. Something similar? Thanks
I'm glad you like the video. I hope you find it useful. As far as the tempera paint goes, check your local art / craft stores. I hope you find some and can get some glass done!
Thanks; this paint is a little dense and you have to mix a little water, right?
I thin it 3 parts paint, 1 part water
Painted side up or down?
I did these, paint side up.
did you put the paint side down like the acrylic
Paint side up on the glass.
What about titanium dioxide
I have not tried it.
Thank you. Paint side up or down?
Up
Why dont you use black spray?
Because I wanted a white frosted look and not black.
@@LaserNoob ???? Then why did the BLACK Tempura paint provide a WHITE burn??? YUP, the black Tempura paint absorbed the laser heat, caused micro-fractures, and the resulting "white" finish.... so there 🙂
Dumb question but could you not run say 3 faster passes, or something of the sort?
Not dumb at all. I don't believe so. Its about getting the coating hot enough to react with the glass.
@@LaserNoob I know that, but higher power/faster passes, creating more "heat exposure" might be beneficial. Figured you maybe could give it a shot or I will hopefully in the next few months when I get mine.
where can i get this test file for glass?
I sell them on my Etsy page for $1.75, but I have a video on how to build your own for free.
do you think I could achieve simillar results with atomstack a5 5w laser? great Chanel its helping me alot so far!
@PijanySamuraj I recently received an A5 m50 Pro to test. I'm starting on that video today and should have it up by Friday at the latest. But the short answer is yes, I believe so. It'll take longer, but it should be possible. That test is one I will be running!
@@LaserNoob lovely, I will wait for the video then. all the best man
The full review is up.
Will this work on actual whiskey glasses
Absolutely!
You're cool when you say galvy
Not sure if you're being a smart ass or not, but cold galvi is a common term in the HVAC industry which I have been in for 30 years. If you just want to be a smart ass, consider yourself educated while you feck off.
I just wanna hear you keep saying ‘tempura’ 🍤 I will say though too, that far and away tempera paint is the go to for etching items with a diode laser.
Music credits? What is that chant sounding tune?
I believe you're asking about my intro music. I use that in the main video as well sometimes. It is "Wild Wild Town" by Evert Zeevalkink
Best way to do Tempera paint is with a AirBrush. Yeah, it's a small investment, but works perfectly and gives you the most control.
Thanks for your opinion.
Using an airbrush ~.5mm nozzle, is the ONLY way to get an EVEN coating. Then, reapply several coats for a thicker total coat which seems to work best for me....
An airbrush (even a cheap one) does a great job with tempera paint
Yes. I have one. But by dipping, I don't have to clean it. So I personally, prefer to dip.