Stoney Point: Rock Climbing Documentary | Pt 3 | The Stonemasters - Bachar, Long, Hill, Yabo
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2019
- Part 3 of 5
Around 1970 an athletic, blonde teenager named John Bachar started showing up at Stoney Point. On his way to becoming the greatest free climber of his generation, Bachar spent his formative years at the Point learning all he could from local pro’s like Bob Kamps and Jim Wilson.
Other legends like John Long, Lynn Hill and John "Yabo" Yablonski also frequented Stoney Point during this time to hone the skills that would later make them Stonemasters.
A film by Cole Gibson and Matthew Talesfore
Music by Christopher Lee
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I started climbing at Stoney in 1969. I bouldered with Bob Kamps and some of the other masters back then.
Interesting to see Mike Waugh in this. I don't know him, but we both knew John and my oldest daughter has been dating his son for several years.
Really fantastic artwork on the Yabo arete. I hope the artist is proud.
Very nice!! Awesome history of what looks like a fantastic spot.
i used to go to stoney in the early 00s sometimes, but it never really did much for me...this is a reminder of the quality of some of the problems there that perhaps i didn't appreciate at the time...i'll go back there soon to give it another chance after watching this. cool video, thanks
Stoney Point was so packed by the early 2000's that I always ended up at Malibu Creek. For a place with so much exposed rock there are relatively few climbing areas.
This is so dope!
Thanks Gavin! It's part 3 of the full doc on Stoney Point which is all available here on the channel.
Very cool, was there in 1974.
Soundtrack @ 10:39 for the 3 Yabo routes fits, seems to say with the heavy bass notes: these routes are tough, first attempted by a madman.
Hey thanks and you know, I always though the same about that little section!
John had a good head of hair!
Weather Report .......... JACO !!!!
I see a lot of my old friends in the video
Goddamn young Lynn was a piece.
the editors evidently thought the same. check out the porn music when she appears at 5:50
Cool video. It'd be nice to have more names introducing those interviewed. Some are, some are not. Important historical details.
Well this is just a segment from what was a feature length doc, if you watch the other parts you will see their names.
@@GiantRock Ahh, that makes sense. I'll watch the others. My feed sent me this one first.
Is there any type of footage that doesn't go well with David Sanborn playing soundtrack?
I haven't been since 1987
i'll say one thing as the natural skeptic i am...to say that those obvious lines with good rock and flat landings in the V2-V4 range weren't established until the 1980s is highly suspect... if this place has the kind of history you are talking about, i think it is highly unlikely those lines weren't done in the 70s if not even earlier. Robbins was already climbing 5.10 in 1960 (and that was likely very hard 5.10 because no one wanted to dare use the grade). John Long climbed Paisano Overhang (5.12c) in 1973..and that is no boulder problem! 5.12c is roughly V5...that little V2 Yabo Roof wouldn't have stood a chance to people like that.........
Hell, I'm a total nobody and I regularly climbed 5.11/11+ in the 1980s, on Woodson boulders...those would be V3 or so. The idea that I was climbing as hard as Yabo in the mid-late 80s is ludicrious...and Woodson isn't that far from there, and had 5.12d (at least) already in the guidebook then, and I knew people doing some 5.12s too. I think you got those FA dates a decade or two off..
I think some of those obvious, easier lines were in areas unclimbed until the 80s. I think it's clear from problems like Yabo Arete that Yabo was climbing pretty hard and bold lines for the time.
Who is narrating?
So how do they get down?
There's usually a downclimb of sorts. A lot of the high balls here have difficult downclimbs compared to other climbing areas, but most everything I've encountered is doable if you could get up the rock.
how did yabo die?
committed suicide i believe
🏇🇹🇷💯🌹
Who is this weak people .
I'm superman. Can fly to the top.
Write from the mental hospital.
Michael Jordan?!?!? Who? Why are u guys always bending history to your advantage....what about the French and the Europeans in that era....not to talk about Ondra nowadays....if MJ is the goat then the closed thing to that in climbing is Ondra for sure
because he was one of the early birds who changed the game you nerd...
Without being offensive, if you say 'one of' it already means he is not the MJ of climbing
@@ruggeroama9464 dude this is a historical documentary. it's a reasonable comparison. they aren't talking about the best climber now. use ur brain
I guess this is limited to the US. Otherwise other climbers of that era should be mentioned first and foremost: Wolfgang Gullich, Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla and the unforgettable Patrick Edlinger.
Yes, those are the names I had in mind. Probably I came across too aggressive with my initial statement, I apologize. But think this...Caldwell, one of my favorite and one of the best climbers alive. It took him 7 years to make the Dawn Wall. His turf. Ondra, who just asked few days earlier how to use cams and nuts, did it in 2 weeks (more or less). Not his terrain and style of climbing. Which other crag climber at his level can do what he does on big walls and which big wall climber does what he does at the crag. That’s how immense his talent is....