Stoney Point: Rock Climbing Documentary | Pt 1 | Welcome To The Point
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2019
- "Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag" is a one of a kind, feature documentary based on the unique climbing culture of a small city park on the outskirts of Los Angeles, California. Though often overlooked, few climbing areas can compare with the rich and storied history of Stoney Point.
For the last 80 years Stoney Point has served as a breeding ground for some of America's greatest climbers. Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, John Bachar, Michael Reardon and many more were at one time or another Stoney locals. Their mark is still visible today in the climbs they established and the community they helped develop.
A film by Cole Gibson and Matthew Talesfore
Music by Christopher Lee
Instagram: @giant__rock
www.GiantRock.com
Thank you to our sponsors:
Royal Robbins: www.royalrobbins.com
MadRock: www.madrock.com
Climbing Magazine: www.climbing.com 
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I had no idea this park was a climber’s “Mecca”. When I hung out there, we called it Stoner’s Point. It was such a beautiful, safe park back then (late 60s-early 70s).
In 1978 my step-brother's friend taught me to rappel on a goldline rope and using a carabiner brake at Pacifico. He'd learned through Harvard Boys School that had a PE class out at Stoney. Shortly after went rappelling at Stoney and while there floundered up Beethoven's wall in my hiking boots. I was hooked and soon got a pair of EB-like knockoffs. Before long I was ditching school every day and going to Stoney. I wasn't strong or coordinated but fell in love with it. Before long I met 16 year-old Scott Loomis who quickly informed anyone he was training to be the youngest person to climb El Cap. One was inclined to believe him as he had a number of boulder problems wired and a huge rack of gear. Then I met Guy, who besides having gray hair and being a little heavier doesn't seem to age. I also met Mike Beck who made Friend knock-offs called Hombres that should have been called Amigos. I also met the Kodas brothers Vaino and Toivo. Vaino had a climbers build and was stronger than anyone except of course Mike Waugh. Waugh had a low traverse from left to right on the Pile Ups no one could touch. Guy took me to Joshua Tree for my second trip there and led me up Sail Away and we top-roped Clean and Jerk. Then Toivo took me to Suicide and we did Serpentine, Revelation and Duck Soup. After that my life was over. With no talent for climbing I became consumed with it for the next fifteen years and nearly killed myself several times. It was a blast and I wouldn't trade those years for anything.
Love the tilt shift
Yes!! Thanks for posting! Looking forward to more great content 👍🏻
this is cool.ive been here a bunch and didnt realize the stoney point culture thats dope
heck yeah glad you enjoyed it!
Props to Guy and Jan. :)
Super interesting vid. Thanks for posting
Glad you enjoyed it
Only found about this place when I saw on the news that a person fell 30-40 feet and just had to be airlifted out. I hope they’re ok.
I had a very young kitten that didn't know that cats don't wander on a car dashboard when driving. It got older and learned to have fear. I grew up right near Stoney Point and learned to climb it before I learned to fear. I just wandered up onto the top rock when I was 6. My brain did hook up eventually, but by then I had learned to climb the sandstone like a lizard... It always seemed weird that there weren't rocks like that everywhere.
what is this miniaturized style of video called? Its really cool. And when will iPhones have this recording feature?!
@cothobh - It's called tilt-shift photography/video. It's not really an effect that can be achieved with a single lens as far as I know. I think Make Magazine and other sites have tutorials on how to make one from a plunger … seriously!
1974 at Stoney.
well, that "rule" of "show no mercy" did seem to be in effect one day i was there. some newbie was up like 13 feet on a problem (where the hardest move is topping out) and he was up there a long time, scared, shaking, and a couple people are all like "go for it, you can do it" ...finally he did go for it. he popped off, fell about 17 feet and his ankle just shattered..i could see it and hear it...really almost made me vomit.
you know what i think of that rule? it is sadistic. people should have been helping him get down...the poor guy.
sandbagging is one thing but this was something else entirely. fucking L.A.
I know peer pressure is a thing, but no one could have forced that newbie to attempt a highball. He assumed the risk (or should have) when he got on. And he should have stopped climbing up as soon as he lost his collection - When you're in fear, other people goading you on shouldn't have much sway on your actions. Unless you place showing-off above self-preservation.
And you can't "help" someone climb down a boulder. Other than trying to describe where footholds are if they've climbed over a ledge I guess, but that's not something you'd do unless they ask. What, should the onlookers have said "Hey, I know you cannot do this! Just give up now! Your last foothold was down by your... past your... uh, below you! No, not there, over there!"?
I mean yeah, maybe you shouldn't encourage someone who looks like they don't know what they're doing. But ultimately, the blame shouldn't be all placed on the people watching him.
@@NicklePiefy there was a decent stance he was on for like 5 minutes before the committing moves at the top. he could have been helped down...in fact i was about to offer right when he popped off...everyone else was saying to just go up...in fact at least one of them said it was "easy"...he was shaking like a leaf. it was a sad situation and i saw it coming... i dunno but it was a memorable experience, and not just because of hearing that loud pop either, but that was really gross to be sure.
sure he didn't have to go up there. but i'm 99% sure if someone would have offered him help getting down he would have taken it...absolutely no question about it.
That's a rough story. Makes me feel better about chickening out a little over halfway up a route about that high last time I was there though. I was with just one other person (it was getting dark) with just one little crashpad and I didn't know what the topout was like (or the downclimb), so even though it was "V-Easy", I decided to bail. Seems like it's been normalized to act like climbing up 15+ feet on a V0 or V-Easy when you're still beginning and those grades really AREN'T all that easy (they're supposed to be equivalent to about a 5.10a) and the danger of breaking a limb on the way down is very real, is no big deal. Most of the ratings on mountainproject and similar apps reinforce that, at the moment, in my experience, since most of the feedback comes from people who did it without much difficulty and want to boast about it but also downplay it. Idk.
Yikes
I climb there all the time and if I'm not feeling a high ball, the older men will call me a pussy and laugh and joke but at the end of the day they will respect your decision to not try it and they might even say they only say things to try and encourage you... but really no one is forcing you to do anything. The older generation there can be a bit jarring, but they're all really cool dudes.
Sorry for the guy with the shattered ankle, but I will say its kind of what you sign up for. Especially when attempting a highball that is beyond your skill level.
Hi
America have got stoney point and the uk have got stoney Middleton😂