One Of The Most Feared Routes In The Country - The Bachar-Yerian 5.11c R/X - A Rock Climbing Story
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- Опубликовано: 13 июн 2019
- Regular climbers Andrew Rock and Jan McCollum attempt to onsight the "Bachar-Yerian" in Tuolumne Meadows, CA. The "B&Y" is one of the best rock climbs in the world but its reputation for being super runout keeps most mortals away.
This infamous 4 pitch route was put up by John Bachar and Dave Yerian in the 80's. It boasts huge runouts between bolts and at the grade of 5.11c R/X represents more of a mental challenge than anything else. Make no mistake, however, as some of the strongest guys in the world, Wolfgang Gullich and Jerry Moffat come to mind, have taken giant whippers as they failed to onsight. This rock climb is a testament to the Stonemasters ethics and John Bachar's incredible vision.
Andrew and Jan are not professional climbers, but they embody the spirit of the sport. I hope you enjoy this tale of their climb.
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Lore has it that an early attempt at a repeat ascent saw French ace Theiry Renault take a series of monster falls on the route - only saved from decking by tieing off a knob.
I spent the summer of '81 there, doing several 2nd and 3rd ascents of new climbs while Bachar was putting up those ridiculously run-out climbs, drilling while on a skyhook. I still have the remains of a rope I bought from him, use it to hang stuff in my garage ceiling. :-)
PS. I was born in 1957, currently I'm extremely happy when I can flash a 5.11c climb like this while having bolts every 5-8'.
a legend of your own my good sir
I was out there too that summer & watched JB doing laps on various Lembert routes...and then sliding down the Water Cracks!
He also soloed past me on the Dike route while I was having a meltdown from having missed “the” crux bolt. LOL
@@pgdarmi Back when all bolts were 1/4" that had to be hand-drilled, preferably while on lead, you only ever placed as many as you had to. I only did that once back home in Norway because it was to be the first bolted route in that part of the country. Thankfully, my Andromeda route which provided a direct link between two easier older routes was extremely well received, and from then on all the new routes were cleaned and bolted from the top. :-)
PS. This was on Fosen, the neighboring community to Flatanger which of course have had the world's hardest climbs since 2012, with Change and Silence. We had no idea that such a cave was to be found just a little bit further north!
@@TerjeMathisen John Bachar said he drilled 3/8" bolts on this route. It's in Alpinist magazine.
😂😂😂 Right?
Hey , you all gotta give Dave Yerian a bit of Recognition, WTF . I use to Climb with Dave who was no slouch. Iwish I could find him, miss that guy...
I've been in touch with him on Facebook. He should be easy enough to find there.
yeah you right, I kinda dropped the ball on that when I made this film. Definitely regret that as I know Dave is no slouch.
I gave Dave a ride down from the Meadows to the Valley right after their first ascent of the B&Y. I was driving my 1961 Datsun PU, which was classic but really marginal. I certainly knew who John was, but Dave was new to me. He told the story of that climb, I was impressed.
Who gives a fuck it's not his god dam route
Loved it. Thank you for posting!
Superb film... really captures the emotions of a project that means something
Damn, 59! I have to up my game. I'm 60 and haven't climbed over 5.10 in years. I'm more into ice and mountaineering/ski mountaineering, but it looks like I need to push myself on the rock again.
I was friends with John and worked with Dave, but never climbed with either of them. Saw Dave last summer. Brought back memories. I grew up in Mammoth and have lived nearly my whole life here, so I cut my teeth in Tuolumne. Spent most of the eighties there. Another friend of mine, Vern Clevenger put up a lot of runout routes there.
52 just started again after a 10 year hiatus and just did my first 5.10 again 😁
Vern is one of the unsung heros of Touloumne climbing, I knew him from Berkeley’s Indian Rock. Nat Smalle, Scott Frye, Dale&Al Bard, Robs Muir, Galen Rowell, Peter Haan. Lots of legends started there.
@@clu4u
A good friend of mine framed Galen's photos for probably 15 years. That crash was such a shock.
My oldest daughter grew up with Dylan Clevenger and her fiancé and Dylan are best friends. He's in their wedding this summer. He's turned out to be quite the adventurer. (When Dylan was born, Vern wrote him a letter and stashed it on Michael Minaret. I think it was when he turned 18, they climbed it together, so Dylan could read the letter.)
What a cool story! Vern had to under go brain surgery and the next day he stole away and hiked 10 miles!
@@clu4u
I was confident that wouldn't take him out. Was a concerning time, though.
Amazing videos man, thankyou for putting these amazing stories together
My pleasure!
I recall looking up at that and was in awe. The sight of it bothered me for some time; I'd imagine finding myself on that route so very, VERY many light years over my head. My guess is that I'll have nightmares tonight, remembering that and watching this...
Beautiful story, really well told and beautiful images!
Thank you so much.
Great film you guys and that is some phenomenal climbing! I used to work in Tuolumne and I stood below that route one time and was in awe of just history behind it. I sent some Bachar boulder problems but no way was I stepping up to this one. Great job all around and that was super inspiring to watch.
Thanks for sharing that very cool!
Great climb, thanks for sharing.
Very cool, awesome send, nice work!
Awesome!
Andrew! It’s Kelly Dinneen: aloha from Colorado! this is AWESOME!!!! Congratulations you two! Fabulous video! It just popped up in my feed and blew my heart wide open! Man you made that look mighty smooth. Super fun to see the two of your smileing faces! Yeah Stoney!
Good job guys, its a serious head trip them Bachar routes.
Great vid guys, really shows off an incredible line.
Thanks man, I wish I could have got more top down video but this shoot came together really fast and my buddy taking photos kinda had priority. Did what we could though and I'm psyched people enjoy even after all these years.
Giant Rock I often feel the same after shooting but you did a great job here!!! Keep it up dude following for more sick routes. Hopefully some inspiration for travel after this lockdown period :-)
Well done!
Fantastic.
Nice video! Good editing and context. Like the history lesson. The fast motion climb itself with the stills really worked. Good job everyone!
Nice send!
This is great!! I was excited to see this climb covered in a vid
So glad you enjoyed it!
Right on Dude
You gotta love some spicy, unprotected 5.11 right off the bat😮 I guess just treat it like it’s a highball? 🤷🏻♂️😅 A very proud climb done in proper style. Congrats on the send! 💪🏻
I actually got to climb this route, belaying my friend who is a very good climber. It was terrifying just to belay him, watching him find his way through that sea of knobs... the 10d pitch.
Is nice series, nicely done.
Awesome film. Great climb
thx so much!
Climbing is about a challenge. We set it for ourselves, and gravity is the arbiter.
“19 year old George Ullrich of Kendal attempted the route without clipping the bolts.”
Awesome film, great photos. But he needs to sort his chalk bag out! It's almost round his ankles 😄
pretty route
Loved this. Yafer where are you?
I enjoyed watching this film!
I'm wondering if this was done on the original 1/4-5/16" bolts or if it was retro bolted prior ?
Ballsy! I think I'll stick to bouldering haha
Ya same, though I did shatter my heel in a bouldering fall and never got hurt on ropes sooooo....stay safe out there!
couldnt be better
A few years back me and my climbing partner met a German guy at the trailhead parking lot. He convinced my partner to go with him to climb it. He onsited it...
Rest in peace John!
Badass! Despite I don't really watch 3rd person made climbing movies,I like this one! This route is far above my mental abilities,but if I could climb such a route I wouldn't want anyone to watch me while on the sharp end.I can't watch one doing a solo or a long runout...but doing it myself is ok.Congrats guys,it wad good job!
Body and soul
Did anyone notice that LJ looks like Alex Honold after 25 years. Very good try. Age is a number. I'm a pretty good proof to that. I'm 56 and I can climb anything I could do in my 20's and I was climbing very badass sports or trad routes then.
59 year old crusher!!!
well done
Thanks dude!
Steck Salathe or the Rostrom ... good work. ever done dike route on pivouwac dome? thats only 3 bolts for 3 pitches... thats all ya get
I wonder if this is one of the routes peter croft soloed, and then never said anything about.
Nope, obvious not.
I took a (very basic) rock climbing lesson from Dave Yerian.
The back of Erian
At least his wig stayed on!!!
Is this some kind of combined route? It sounded like they were talking about bolts in the beginning and then cams at the end of the video. And i see what he has on his rack.
Well I mean there are lot of routes out there that have bolts and some trad gear, this is def one of them. Some gear down low and some gear up high. In the middle its just a couple bolts about 40ft from each other, spicy!
@@GiantRock , but why not throw in a few more bolts if there's bolts already? If you fall near 40ft between protection, that's going to be well over 80ft right if you include rope stretch and the belayer moving up a bit. Bananas. I could understand that for 5.10 and lower, but not getting into the 11s.
@@TheCorrectionist1984 ....not sure how to respond to that exactly. Are you a climber? The first ascentionist led the route ground up and drilled the bolts from hooks at the best stances he could find. The route is a test piece and a part of climbing history. Retro bolting something like that would be sacrilege.
@@GiantRock , I'm a new climber. One year exactly. Almost all indoors. I've only climbed outside like 10 times. Max outside was 5.10c. Indoor max 12a. But anyway that historical argument makes the most sense when you put it that way.
@@TheCorrectionist1984 I cut my teeth climbing at Tuolumne back in the eighties and there are a lot of run out routes because when you had to drill by hand, you put as few bolts in as you could get away with. I haven't done the B-Y, but many easier routes with 40' runouts. I also did a lot of free soloing, so it wasn't that bad. An example is Dike Route (5.9 R) on Pywiak Dome. Really fun if you like slab climbing. Most of it's easy. Just across the road from Pywiak is Mountaineer's dome. I took a friend out for his first time and we did Fresh air (5.9 R), but I got off route where it crosses Tourist Trap (5.10d R) and took him up some 5.10b. I thought it seemed harder than 5.9 and he felt a lot better about struggling so much on that section when he found out he climbed 10b his first time out.
you shittin me, is that a meat anchor at the top?
They work great
Astroman... go do that.
He did, got the onsight on that and the Rostrum. The B&Y stands apart from those as more mentally challenging.
Great send
whoa thats scary, a trouser filler even for me sitting on my ass at home, oh dear..
Next project, "Indian Face" UK. probably similar climbing but on different rock. well done.
indian face is so much harder than this. its E9 6c, or 5.12d X if youre a yank.
Next goal... why not silence?😂
O my god , look at the rock just rock for ever what a place wow
Are any of the roits bolted for like a noob like me ,?
But this rock hase got all those little bumps off it making it way easy
The thing no one mentioned john dod it without ropes
yes he was a prominent free soloist but he established this route with a rope.
Amazing vid as always.
Super unimpressive lack of helmets. 30' run out + no helmet = bad decision.
video is from like a decade ago tho, well before the "every single climber has to have a helmet at all times omg!!" revolution, so i think we can cut em some slack.
@@GiantRock It's also a personal choice. I am all for people setting a good example and telling newcomers the basics of how to keep yourself safe, but the first lesson any rock climber should learn is that safety is always relative in this sport, and you have to find what you are comfortable with. If you want to only toprope in the gym with your helmet on, fine by me. Alex Honnold wouldn't be enjoying that, though. To each their own.
Get bent, helmet wiener. I swear you goofbags hang out and wait for climbing videos to post so you can scold the rest of the climbing community. No one cares about your loser's opinion, Captain Safetytowne.
What is that body belay at the end 😂 no thanks
It's common practice before modern sport climbing
@@bman6065doesn't make it any less sketchy lmao, leading with a static was also common practice at one point
Nose in a Day? Salathe Free?
Did Alex free solo this yet
terrible opening music but awesome vid
no helmets?
Nope. This is from a different era, prior to helmets becoming as popular as they are today.
@@GiantRock haha...I thought this film was relatively new. when was it filmed?
@@OnyxTortoise 2010!
Climbers used to only wear helmets when in alpine terrain where they expected rock or ice to come falling down. I've never, in 40+ years of climbing, used a helmet for basic rock climbing.
what's your next goal? isn't it obvious? solo it...it's all there and you know that now.
basically a solo anyway
Geez, why don't they just put bolts? Why the slavish adherence to the "x" rating? Just call it what it is: free-soloing.
put more goddamn bolts in it what the fuck
I agree! Climbs like this should be brought down to the lowest common denominator. History? Pfht, who cares. (Maybe “clean” a hold or two.)