je zajímavý, že když si člověk pustí 20 minut se Špekem a tohle video tak se v názoru vna mg kluci vlastně úplně shodnou o fairovosti v jeho používání.
I think there is a sense to the traditional way of climbing compared to the pure sports climbing: 1. You have to be much more focused and realy need to know. In the beginning it might seem crazy becasue you feel more insecure but in the long run it gives you so much mor confidence in your climbing skills. It theoretically let´s you climb even more rocks and routs as you don´t have to rely on preset bolts. 2. Only using slings and knots and no chalk is the more sustainable and environmentaly friendly way to climb especially in the sandstone becasue you have less wear on the rocks. The rules with the chalk are a bit confusing on the Czech side. On the German side of that area the rules are a lot easier: No chalk at all, only knots, slings, Ufos and no top rope climbing. For me personaly climbing the traditional way also has something meditational.
Yes I agree! See this clip reminded me why I climbed for over 20 years. I hung it up in 2013 when I had my best climbing season at 50 years old! I quite becuse my life needed some adjusting. I was not enjoying my partner's company and neither did I trust them. The ones I did tust were few and far inbetween! When I did connect it was amazing! I am now a 2020 I.B.J.J.F, (Brazillian Jiujitsu) European Champion, Master 6 feather weight, blue belt. I tell you the condition, and mental strenght developed while climbing moderat small and medium sized, tradition routes in Joshua tree, Thaquitz, Suicide, Yosemite, got spanked on the Mt Connes West Face, Swiss Alps extensive! 1 visit tot the Dolomites. Etc! This mental toughness was 80% of the correct recipe to win my match in Lisobon last January 2020! Maybe I will start climbing again!
RP = Rot Punkt (Red Point) is a style of free climbing where the climber perhaps knows the route (could be after failed onsight attempt), or has climbed this route before. The climber has to climb without a fall, clipping/placing the protection. Considering sandstone climbing typical for Czech Republic, Saxony and part of Poland - pictured in this film - most of the first ascents have been done before the era of sport climbing (hence the RP), in the AF style - Climber could fall or (which is mostly usuall, is climb from one ring bolt to another in kind of multi pitch fashion).
The rocks would not handle bigger traffic, keeping it scarry/terrifying/dedly dangerous is one of the ways how to protect it :) coming just for a walk is also nice experience. If you are really determined to climb, then you can try getting some leadclimber at the crag/ in the pub or visit some other areas which are more survivable (Ostrov, Tisá, Elbe valley). Adršpach is notoriously known as one of the toughest areas. Great example is Pravčická brána, huge sandstone arc (for the soft european sandstone), which was open to just walking over the top of it for few decades. Its thickness was reduced by 1m (3 feet). The routes would experience the same.
20:30 Chalk can't be used in any routes, the fact that it can be used above a certain difficulty is just an invention of one climber and it has spread. So actually, chalk can't be used in any routes
No chalk or metal pro to protect the natural aesthetic of the rock... instead we'll throw in these hideous brown bolts with hangers that have an 8 inch circumference. Brilliant.
It is not about the natural aesthetics, but about the softness of the sandstone. Using metal pro would demage the rock, as if the rock would be bolted every 2 meters. Too many climbers will be climbing there. The ringbolts used on sandstone has to be long to be safely secured in the rock. There are only a few (minimum spacing is 3 meters but usually it is more then 10). Then you use knots on textile slings put in the cracks to protect youtself as these dont demage the soft rock. Anyway, come here in Czech republic to try it for yourself. This is the definition of physical and mental side of climbing.
Your cam would fall out as the rock would just crumble ;) We are talking stones, sometimes with hardness of a compressed soil 😅 Also if you want better protection, there is equivalent for cams for sandstone called UFO. Made by local, many just don't use them :D www.obrworks.cz/e-shop/
Actually this is the norm :) way older than first nuts and cams, mabye even older as pegs. Metal pro would leave just scratchmarks and fall out. You need quite big contact surface for pro to stay in sandstone.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I really dig the lack of music in this. Excellent touch
5:06 looking for chalk bag :) very nice video, thanks for sharing
What a lovely film.
And also: dayum younger Tom Randall was georgeous
name a more iconic climbing duo. Bromance is so damn strong
Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt come to mind. Other than that, not too many. Bob Scarpelli and Brad Jackson as well.
Sherpa Tensing and Edmund Hillary?
Robbie Phillips and Culann O Brien
I think this is now my #1 climbing destination. Love to get there some day.
je zajímavý, že když si člověk pustí 20 minut se Špekem a tohle video tak se v názoru vna mg kluci vlastně úplně shodnou o fairovosti v jeho používání.
I think there is a sense to the traditional way of climbing compared to the pure sports climbing:
1. You have to be much more focused and realy need to know. In the beginning it might seem crazy becasue you feel more insecure but in the long run it gives you so much mor confidence in your climbing skills. It theoretically let´s you climb even more rocks and routs as you don´t have to rely on preset bolts.
2. Only using slings and knots and no chalk is the more sustainable and environmentaly friendly way to climb especially in the sandstone becasue you have less wear on the rocks.
The rules with the chalk are a bit confusing on the Czech side. On the German side of that area the rules are a lot easier: No chalk at all, only knots, slings, Ufos and no top rope climbing.
For me personaly climbing the traditional way also has something meditational.
Yes I agree! See this clip reminded me why I climbed for over 20 years. I hung it up in 2013 when I had my best climbing season at 50 years old! I quite becuse my life needed some adjusting. I was not enjoying my partner's company and neither did I trust them. The ones I did tust were few and far inbetween! When I did connect it was amazing! I am now a 2020 I.B.J.J.F, (Brazillian Jiujitsu) European Champion, Master 6 feather weight, blue belt.
I tell you the condition, and mental strenght developed while climbing moderat small and medium sized, tradition routes in Joshua tree, Thaquitz, Suicide, Yosemite, got spanked on the Mt Connes West Face, Swiss Alps extensive! 1 visit tot the Dolomites. Etc! This mental toughness was 80% of the correct recipe to win my match in Lisobon last January 2020! Maybe I will start climbing again!
UFO is forbiden at Czech side
7:53 Holy rope-drag Batman!
I love Spradventures 😍
Moc hezky natočené video :-)
The ratings of the routes just seem way off.
By the looks of it, knowing what these two already accomplished.
The game favours the elite,but gravity treats everybody equally.
Hra zvýhodňuje elitu, ale gravitace zachází se všemi stejně.
I get the point of not using chalk, but either you prohibit it entirely, or not at all.
Je fakt sranda vidět že tohle překládal někdo, kdo už asi chvilku leze :D Ta nálož lezeckýho žargonu je ohromující. Za mě palec nahoru pánové
někdy to je až přehnaný, např. když řekne že byl unavený a je to přeloženo jako "byl jsem na brzdy"
krasne video,,,diky
What does he mean by RP (apologies for being a newbie)
RP = Rot Punkt (Red Point) is a style of free climbing where the climber perhaps knows the route (could be after failed onsight attempt), or has climbed this route before. The climber has to climb without a fall, clipping/placing the protection.
Considering sandstone climbing typical for Czech Republic, Saxony and part of Poland - pictured in this film - most of the first ascents have been done before the era of sport climbing (hence the RP), in the AF style - Climber could fall or (which is mostly usuall, is climb from one ring bolt to another in kind of multi pitch fashion).
OMFG, this rock, these locations!! Wish it was bolted. I'll never be able to climb there until the loosen up on all of that =/
The rocks would not handle bigger traffic, keeping it scarry/terrifying/dedly dangerous is one of the ways how to protect it :) coming just for a walk is also nice experience. If you are really determined to climb, then you can try getting some leadclimber at the crag/ in the pub or visit some other areas which are more survivable (Ostrov, Tisá, Elbe valley). Adršpach is notoriously known as one of the toughest areas.
Great example is Pravčická brána, huge sandstone arc (for the soft european sandstone), which was open to just walking over the top of it for few decades. Its thickness was reduced by 1m (3 feet). The routes would experience the same.
Would liquid chalk be allowed here?
No kind of chalk is allowed.
20:30 Chalk can't be used in any routes, the fact that it can be used above a certain difficulty is just an invention of one climber and it has spread. So actually, chalk can't be used in any routes
Ok so maybe im slow but i don’t understand why stoppers and cams arent allowed here? They don’t harm the rock?!
Well they do. The sandstone is too soft so friends and stoppers would damege the rock.
6:06 make a joke?
Im afraid not
No chalk or metal pro to protect the natural aesthetic of the rock...
instead we'll throw in these hideous brown bolts with hangers that have an 8 inch circumference. Brilliant.
It is not about the natural aesthetics, but about the softness of the sandstone. Using metal pro would demage the rock, as if the rock would be bolted every 2 meters. Too many climbers will be climbing there.
The ringbolts used on sandstone has to be long to be safely secured in the rock. There are only a few (minimum spacing is 3 meters but usually it is more then 10). Then you use knots on textile slings put in the cracks to protect youtself as these dont demage the soft rock.
Anyway, come here in Czech republic to try it for yourself. This is the definition of physical and mental side of climbing.
@@HanibalSport One day maybe! Let me get my trad game up in the US first.
Also the hideous brown ringbolts are nearly invisible ;) Finding one can be a challenge 😂😂
Or just chuck in a cam? Like why just do the norm
Your cam would fall out as the rock would just crumble ;) We are talking stones, sometimes with hardness of a compressed soil 😅
Also if you want better protection, there is equivalent for cams for sandstone called UFO. Made by local, many just don't use them :D
www.obrworks.cz/e-shop/
Actually this is the norm :) way older than first nuts and cams, mabye even older as pegs.
Metal pro would leave just scratchmarks and fall out. You need quite big contact surface for pro to stay in sandstone.