I realize this video is a tad long, but it is tough to get all this info in 30 minutes or less. Part 2 will cover the front suspension and tie together the entire chassis with full 4 link settings recommended as a baseline to go testing. The front suspension must be right to allow the rear to do it's job.... it is all about the full combination. This video doesn't have you cutting out your stock back half, but we take the stock type suspension and improve on it to get your A Body ready to drag race or even do some noprep... Please give this video a thumbs up and consider subscribing to the channel! Regardless thanks for watching! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Kevin just wanted to let you know how helpful your gm a-body information was for me at the March Meet event at Bakersfield. The car is a1967 Elcamino have all chrome moly and heim jointed rear bars. Just fabricated new upper torque boxes after seeing your video. I now have seven holes for adjustment. Upper bars are 15 degrees down and are 9 inches long lower bars almost 0 degrees. 60ft. Times went from 1.60 to1.45 car was high 10.90s just ran 10.58 it’s best by far. This is the biggest single improvement I have made to the car. This is with single adjustable qa1 all around.Will be following with double adjustable coil overs front and rear. It’s almost unbelievable how well that just worked. Thank you Kevin you have my attention.
This is exactly why I take the time I do on this channel!!! I am really excited to hear about your progress and success with the 67 El Camino! Boom!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
This is the Chevelle video I needed! All I have done to my 67 Chevelle is replace the rear trailing arms with the Hotchkis arms and brace with a factory rear sway bar. They helped over the stock arms but due to the wrong type of rims that came on the car when I bought it. It also has air shocks to raise the body to clear the tires. I need to get different rims badly! Thanks for doing these videos! It's really appreciated!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Very good info. Thank you. This will help a BUNCH with the 68 Chevelle that my best friend is currently running. We made progress last season. We got it into the 9's N/A. This will definitely speed up our learning curve. Looks like MUCH of this info will transfer to my 79 Malibu as well. Heading into the 9's N/A SBC this season as well.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Congrat! This will absolutely translate to the 79 Malibu!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. It is live: ruclips.net/video/NgJqJqgA7oY/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank you! Check out the video of it on my channel to see how stable the engine is and how smooth it cruises. Will do a video of lighting up the tires and doing a launch down the strip once I get it to Jackson SC.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. RJ I enjoyed meeting you!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thanks for this!! I have a 68 Pontiac LeMans/GTO project in the development stage and have been watching your videos to learn how best to approach this exact subject. I have several friends each running different setups and the more I listen to them the more confused I get. Two have a small tire radial with ladder bars and the other 2 have 4 link. Your description of the changes I should follow make the most sense in my head with the triangulated stock setup up with upgraded components. Looking forward to the next video and thanks for being so generous with your knowledge!!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. You are absolutely on the right track if you want to keep it "stock style" 68!! Now if you are willing to cut it up and then I would personally would to the back half pro 4 link. I would struggle cutting up a 68 for sure. I would not mind putting in an upper adjust torque box as the factory one needs some love. But cutting off the back half frame, would be a tough decision just because it is a 68. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
I’m not a drag racer but I’m intrigued with the geometry and physics you discuss required to make a car go. I have a ‘65 Catalina 2D Post. Had numerous rear suspension issues. Vibration over 60, violent wheel hop. Had all stock parts and couldn’t figure out why. The middle part of this video is the best part. Plainly states what the arm angles should be. Long story short, I upgraded rear and front suspension by PMT Fab. Viking shocks, sway bars, polys. Along the way the main source of the issue was discovered. Turns out Eaton Detroit sent me wagon springs 20 years ago and I never knew. Added 2.5” of rear ride ht. Messed everything up. Using your arm angles of 0* on the lowers and 10* for uppers I mocked up my car to design spring height. Turns out that the arms at design ht are at 0 and 10. We shall see how the car drives and performs. Perhaps a few 1/4 mile trips next summer will be on the list.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
I am putting a 9" Moser in my 67 Malibu with global west braces and coilover brkts and tubular crosspoint for 2way adj. Coilovers. I am going to pull body and weld restore frame and install c channel bracing and triangular gussets. Additional point heights for fronts of upper and lower control arms from global west..Great video regarding difference of radials and slicks..
Thanks Kevin, I have to do some measuring now. I have a 65 GTO 1400 hp street strip car 4000lbs, T56 magnum stick, runs 8’s has an adjustable clutch and I run slicks. It has a moser 9” and they build it with a lower mounting point on the lower bar and a higher mounting point on the upper which achieves the same (I think) as you are describing, I made the lower bar less aggressive because it was causing wheel hop. But you have me thinking now, so I will have to do some measuring! Looking forward to the next video! Thanks!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Definitely confirm your bar angles and shocks! Keep me posted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC with my Moser 9” I have 10 degrees down angle on the top bar and with changing location of the mounting hole at the rear end up I have 2 degrees on the lower bar. So basically Moser builds their bolt in A body rear ends to be set up exactly like you described! Pretty happy about that!
Just found your channel couple days ago, love it, super informative and couldn't be more timely as I dig into my 68 Malibu, keep the great videos coming 👍
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I use their G Body upper fully adjustable control arms on the 48 Ford Coupe. Checkout my video on it at ruclips.net/video/jdU05MLunek/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Got it! I have that high on the list, but I may need to bump that up!! Thanks for commenting! Are there any good B Body forums or FB sites I should look for? Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Excellent video, but you gave away all my secrets. Lol. It's amazing what can be done with this suspension. It took a lot of trial and error to figure this stuff out with what I had available over the years. I got some pointers from super stock racer Don McElroy in the late 70s, that I used to figure out how to make this all work. It's nice the brackets that are available today. Thanks. Looking to see what you have for the front. God1st
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I have had so many racers help me over the years and I love helping others racers so we can keep our sport alive. I would love to hear all your stories!! My dad tells me every day how amazed he is at the info available on the internet. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Great video Kevin - very clear and super helpful. I am building a '64 Vista Cruiser Wagon with a turbo LS. Would be amusing to see it launch safely & beautifully on the strip, so will be watching all your videos. Thank you!
Kev, thanks for all the work you been putting out the last few months! Will you be doing any video with you racing this year? I think you’d do a great job filming at the track and explaining everything that’s going on through your head before and after you make a rip.
You are welcome! O yes!!!! I will be doing a full vlog on the 53 Studebaker. Remember I have never driven this car at all, so I will walk through how I approach it, and all of the thoughts at the track and real footage of it. Any issues or adjustments will be captured and shared. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I will add it to the list! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC all good mate! im spreading the word to my mopar buddies down under so hopefully when i make the move the the tri 4 link setup im researching your knowledge and videos will be an invaluable source.....power on!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Hi Kevin, Thanks so much for the excellent and very informative videos. I have followed your advise given on part 1 and 2 on this topic of GM A-body front and rear suspension's, I'm looking at Chassis Works Bolt In Coil over conversion kit for GM A Body. The kit I'm considering is with 12'' 150 lbs springs, dbbl adjust shocks. the shocks are 14.52'' extended, 9.37'' compressed and with 5.15'' total travel. Designed for the A-Body's, the ride height is adjusted + or - 2'' without changing the installed height by raising or lowering the lower mounting point of the shock and the reason I'm interested. DO YOU THINK THERE IS ENOUGH SHOCK TRAVEL HERE AT 5.15'''. Current set up is, M/T Pro Bracket Radials and Radial Pro's 275-60-15 x 10'' , A/S IS AT 127 % IC @ 46'' ICH 10''' 1970 GTO 1920 FT WT 1620 R WT with stock upper arms and solid boxed BMR lowers and 2bbl adjust QA1 with 150lbs stock type springs. 4.10 spool. front are qa1 coil over 450 lbs with 2bbl adjust.1.39 10.55 @ 127 . I have but not yet installed BMR adjustable upper arms. thanks for your time love your work
I've always installed PST performance suspension rear control arms both upper and lower the upper being adjustable..some drag shocks and even a air bag in the right rear spring to keep the right rear bumper from trying to touch the pavement...
This is a very interesting video. I was running about a 2 inch different in my lower bar angled up in front. Stock location everything and running TRZ components in the back W ARB.
I'd love to see you pov on what's needed on a S197 Mustang (05-14). I have approx. 800whp, trans-brake, turbo, on stiff-wall slicks trying to do better at the track. Current pb is a 6.3@110, with a best 60' of 1.53 (I think 1.4's would be an attainable 60' goal on this 3600lb. car). I have plotting dots all over the side of my car, and quite a bit of adjustment on the rear of this thing if that's something you'd be interested in to get me some help. Thanks for your time, and excellent video as usual!
I’m so happy I stumbled on to your videos, I instantly subscribed. I have a 70 chevelle with a N/A 632 and a manual transmission. My question is does this information apply to a manual transmission car? Thank you for sharing your vast amount of knowledge.
My dad had a 66 Chevelle SS 396. Killed the 396 and replaced it with an L88 427. My first hotrod memory was me standing up in the front seat (1973 or 74. I was 3 or 4yo) and him hammering the throttle. Hmmm... must of been about then the seed was planted. I cant recall any other memories from that age
OMG... my first memories of "dad, make it go fast" was dad's 1967 Coronet RT with a 440, 3 x 2 bbl, factory Indy heads and 4 speed with 3.90s in the dana 60. He made a set of homemade traction bars for the leaf springs and that thing would bury the factory 150 MPH speedometer on HWY 17 south heading from Charleston, SC to Beaufort! He had modified the 4 speed so he could shift it without the clutch and never lifting on the gas. There was only 1 car that out ran him on the street and we street raced that Coronet all over the state. Coming home from a street race in early one morning from Walterboro, SC, we had a car get up on his bumper. It was still dark, like 4:30 am. So dad dropped in 3rd and floored it. Hit 4th and the headlights were still right there! Then around 130 it came around up. It was a Ferrari and to this day I am not sure what was in it. He kept pulling away we lifted and just didn't say a word for another 30 minutes. LOL. Eventually we caught and we just waved. I really need to video my dad talking about all these stories. Not long after that weekend, my dad lost his license at another street race from the Highway Patrol and mom and me had to drive him to and from work every day for a year. Needless to say, that began to curb our street racing. Everytime dad would get on the main roads with the Coronet the cops would pull him over. Right tickets for "Steering too small", "car is too loud", "tail lights too dim".. the Highway Patrol actually told my dad his job was to write him a ticket every chance he got until he sold the car. 3 months after that, Dad sold the Coronet and the next owner put on the track full time at Blaney dragstrip around Elgin, SC. It later had a bad fate with the guard rails and we lost track of it then. Sorry for rambling.. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I put Lakewood bars on my 68 chevelle and adjustable upper arms with 50/50 rear shocks and 90/10 fronts. It relocated bottom link 2 1/2"lower on rear end. Still won't run under 1.8's 60ft with 9.5" drag radials without spinning. Runs 11's@114mph.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Definitely need to get some good double adjustable shocks, front and rear. Depending on your power levels and gearing, we can definitely do better than 1.8 60ft times!!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
@8:22 thats how my 73 El Camino launched with a 396, all drivers side way up in the air with 2.73 gears with a sway bar the 69 Chevelle isn't as bad but w/o slicks its useless spinning the tires all day long.
Kevin, 70 SS Chevelle street/strip 900 hp NA 565 ci. Dick Miller chrome- moly fully adjustable heim-jointed upper and lower control arms in rear.... with triangulation braces . Top arm is pointed down about 12.5- 13 degrees . Bottom arm is pointed up about 3 degrees. 295/65-15 MT RADIALS. Is that bottom arm pointed up excessively? Sounds about right to me according to your video.
Thanks for commenting and asking! With a Radial, you may end up going a tad more uphill on the bottom bar, but start there and test and video. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Mr Wilson. i know your a busy man. but I'm trying to put a radial tire, A body, 1970 monte carlo together. I have the 9 in from Currie. The G-Body torque box kit from Merillat Racing. A global West coil over conversation kit. With TRZ upper and lower bars. My question is, What happens when the top bar levels out to 0 degrees? Will it keep rising? i did not get the springs nor shocks. still not fully prepped to weigh it yet. trying to figure out how much extension i can get. but the bar levels out early. that's with 15 degrees down. can i still get extension after the upper bar levels out and how much rise? thank you for your time. any info would be greatly appreciated.
This video is very helpful esp for a guy trying to make his 67 Chevelle go 10s as a street strip car and a 4 spd. 🙄. Why do you feel the Currie is the superior rearend? I’ve purchased a QP fab and braced housing, 3:73 w/a wave trac center section.
Kevin video was very detailed and informative. To bad this video wasn't out 6 months ago because I restored my 70 chevelle frame and fully boxed it in with a kit I bought from ABC performance and fit like a glove but never thought of reinforcing the torque boxes . I guess the welder is coming out again because my 396 is making over 625 hp. I have a set of southside machine traction lift bars wonder what your thoughts are about using them ?
Thanks so much, Moe! I appreciate you leaving a comment. The lift bars by Southside Machine are good pieces! Did you get the the LCA relo brackets also? I run their G Body Front Upper control arms on the 48 Ford! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Ok, awesome video. So where am I shipping my 65' chevelle SS to? Nj speedshops/fabricators are non existent. I have a 750+ hp lsx being built for it already
Thanks so much!! Appreciate you leaving a comment. Checkout our website at samsonperformance.com and/or our FaceBook page at facebook.com/kevinwilsonsbc Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! _KevinWilsonSBC_
@@KevinWilsonSBC I do not have a fb account. I did just send you a message on IG tho. Look forward to talking with ya s. Great work again on that video!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. The 8.8 is a solid rear end for sure! Let me add that to the list. Thanks so much, Bill! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Do you have a video that discusses pinion angle with a leaf spring car? Im trying to find information about that with a radial set-up. thank you for everything you do!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I do have a pinion angle video, but I need to make one for leaf springs. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/YE7Rn93JnD8/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. If I had to pick 1 or the other, I would do adjustable lower torque boxes for 2 reason. 1) that gives me a stronger box on the chassis to eliminate the thin factory box. 2) I can get a level or a tad up bottom bar. Of course, I still need to address that top bar angle. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
There was a company years ago that made a bracket that located the upper arm mounting points several inches above the factory points on the differential housing to change the instant center.. It bolted to the upper arm mounts on the differential housing and anchored to the webbing. I can't remember the name.
After watching this video it has me thinking about the unequal length of the lca's vs torque arm on fbody cars. In this case the torque arm is higher and longer. Does this have an opposite effect on the chassis? Like instant center becoming shorter as the car rises? Maybe you could touch on this.
I will add this to the list of suggestions. This is more in play with a shorter and higher mount TQ arm vs the stock length tq arm, but I can hit on this one more. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great advice Kevin, thx a lot for your video. I ran out to the garage and measured the bar angles on my holden which is the same design . It runs 26 degrees down on the top bar and 3.5 up on the lower bar. Do you think this is in the ball park to run it at the track and start tuning the shocks. Car is 3500lb 700hp turbo Ls, 255 radial streeter
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. With a good set of shocks and radials it should plant the tire! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Great video. I only wish you could explain the instant center, center of gravity, anti squat relationship and problems in an A-body. Would you lengthen or change the height of the upper control arms to the housing?
I have videos on the topics you mentioned but just not included in this video. If I were to change the height on the housing I would likely go aftermarket with the housing all together. With some adjustable torque boxes the stock height and length are fine. Here is a video on what you were discussing: ruclips.net/video/_vtb_utqSJM/видео.html same principles apply to any chassis.
Hi Kevin, How about rearend no hop bars to make the "upper" bars go down hill I have looked at most all of your videos and no coverage on the no hop bars. The 35 years ago ones that were to tall were junk. At least 2 company's now make nice shorter ones. Your thoughts on those bars????
They are not bad these days, but generally at the power levels I am dealing with, the stock chassis boxes are the major weak link due to flexing. With that in mind, I tend to focus my energy on replacing the torque boxes. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
I have a 1979 g body wagon. I have found TRZ parts before and have been plankton use them. My question for you is if I use rod ends in all 4 bars will I need a panhard bar? Or is the angle of the top bars enough to hold side to side movment?
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. That is a great question. I meant to cover this in my video, and I will cover it in Part 2 on the front. The triangulated bars will located the rear, but we have ran a diagonal link bar as a safety measure. I am not a panhard bar for drag racing. If you run chromoly or 4340 thickwall bars with chromoly rod ends, you should be good, but added insurance is SAFE. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I know they are freaking strong on high impact loads like 4 link bolts. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I have looked at their site before but didn't see any torque boxes for the A Body cars. I will take a look again though. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Hi Kevin, QA1 offers an "Anti Hop" package the relocates the mount for the upper arms up about 4 inches. Have you seen this? Will this make a measurable difference? They are QA1 Part number 5213
Hello all I would like to ask about changing instant center on the rear upper trailing arm crossmember,I talked to Tony from abc performance doing this mod ,but for handling,for autocross and road coarse. He said they did his 3 different holes up 5/8 center to center apart from the original hole.could some one explain the difference moving the pick up points up compared to down like in the video. Thanks.
Not all rear disc conversions include C clip eliminators so PLEASE make sure you kit allows the elimination of the C clips. Most rear disc conversions will work with C clip eliminators though. Just not always the other way around. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. They are still attached to the rear end the same way and same location. You need to confirm for sure, but to me, this is stock suspension by the spirit of the rule. Installing ladder bars or custom 4 link is not stock suspension. You are keeping the same layout on the rear end and chassis, just a longer bracket with holes further away from the axle centerline. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
I spent half the day googling and on utube, I can't find any info on this problem. I personally believe that rwd is outty. but if that's all they are doing, it shouldn't be a secret
Love the leaf springs!!! The 67 Coronet R/T 440 with 4 speed, I promise it would hook on a dirt road!!!! I will be doing some Mopar videos soon! Thanks for supporting my channel with views. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I enjoy your vids. I see pop's is still a teenager running wild on tha streets. Probably like his first child, just felt too good to stop. Sorry sorry I'll stop.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I build my own rear ends and offer that at my shop. With a 1000 HP and 1000 lbs ft of torque, even with some fo the best gears, we have had decent success with the 8.5" 10 bolt. But, in the years of this video, they have 8.2". If going to the trouble to change it, please Lord, go with a 12 bolt or 9"!!! Also, we convert all of our street rear ends to C Clip eliminators so not sure where you get they are not for the street. Just saying we do this a bunch for street, street rods, and drag cars. You mention big ford bearing ends. Yes, great idea and that eliminates C Clips!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC I’d go the 12bolt but the 9” is so noticeable not A body I thought you were trying to keep the look of a body. Can you tell me what brand c clip eliminators don’t leak oil and can take constant side loads?
@@TimothyGambino9085 yeah I explain in the video, to keep it more stock, then use the 12 bolt, but for those who want more then the 9 inch is a definite option. We have had the most success with Moser c clip eliminators: www.moserengineering.com/c-clip-eliminators-for-gm-10-bolt-and-12-bolt-axles-except-impalas-and-trucks.item I just cannot keep everyone happy... LOL. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
yeah... not sure I will do that again... my wife said "No, Kevin.. don't do that anymore. Please, that sounds kinda demonic... stop" I then said "yes, dear." So there you have it... not doing that anymore. LOL... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Im not 100% convinced L-69 tri power was available with a/c.. Reason is the tri-power was manual trans only, no automatic trans options available with the 3 carb option. L-69 tri power spec'd the "308" cam, which was relatively lumpy for a stock vehicle even in the musclecar era. This camshaft could not be had with a/c, so...see where im going with this? This car is fitted with a 4 speed, so that makes sense. Ill have to dig deeper on this subject because something is throwing a red flag in my old feeble brain.
I'm running the UMI rear arms on my 65 GTO, its mainly a daily driver street car running Cooper radials, but it has a 550hp/near 600ftlb 455 in it. It also has the rear sway bar from my 70 GTO, since the 70 needs a frame off rebuild, and its too heavy to race. The 65 goes straight even when its spinning, but the best it might do is a 1.7 60ft, keeping it a street ride because I have others to race. I like the UMI bars though, inexpensive, well built, and they work quite well. I learned a lot trying to get that 70 to hook, and found most of what you said here to be what I found, got some new ideas and things to try from your video. Good idea boxing everything around the mounts, I hadn't really thought of that. Trying to make 600ftlbs work in a 4100lb car with a 90lb front bumper is a challenge to say the least. Currently its a 68 LeMans that is getting the work so I can make it hook. I had been trying to race a 79 Formula with a 700hp/tq Pontiac in it, but it needs so much work its cheaper and easier to build a different car. I'll make that Bird into a fun street strip toy again with a mild 10 second 455/461, embarrass the local guys with it. The bottom end of that 700hp engine is only a 467, the top end is going on a 505, and it might see a little help getting air in, so I need a chassis that can handle a lot more torque. The 68 is getting the nod, because its a $300 car I pulled out of a Nebraska pasture in 2014. Its been lightened considerably already, so its not going to be a 3500-4000lb car, shooting for a lot less than that to make up for my gelatinous mass. While watching your vid I am thinking about how I can lower the upper mount points, and change the IC so it pushes the rear down and lifts the front rather than the usual squat these things have. You gave me some great numbers to use as starting points, which I was missing, thank you so much for that. I have no problem cutting stuff and welding... but the budget and intent dictates no back half 4 links. I want it to look mostly stock under there. Its going to be a sleeper of sorts, I want people to underestimate it so making subtle changes to the factory stuff is the way to go. It has a 12 bolt right now, planning on a 9" as soon as the engine is done. Thank you for the info, I have enough A bodies around here to keep me busy for a while. Getting them all to hook would be great, 455s make traction an issue.
Really enjoyed reading your comment... definitely get the control arms changed and it WILL work. Good that you can weld as that will help a bunch!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I can do more than weld, but I need to get some more equipment to do things I want to do. e.g. tubing bender, Bridgeport mill, turret lathe, etc. I did a complete frame off on the 65, it wasn't even a good parts car when I got it in 2007, the rust was real bad. Made a slideshow of the 65 build on my channel, I had no idea video would be a thing like it is now when I built that car. The rest of them are going to be put online with video. I probably won't show what I do under the 68 to make it hook though. The 69 GTO makes what the 65 started as look like a show car. The 68 is going to be the test mule, see what works and what doesn't. Thanks again for the starting point, it helps an awful lot. Absolutely invaluable information.
I realize this video is a tad long, but it is tough to get all this info in 30 minutes or less. Part 2 will cover the front suspension and tie together the entire chassis with full 4 link settings recommended as a baseline to go testing. The front suspension must be right to allow the rear to do it's job.... it is all about the full combination. This video doesn't have you cutting out your stock back half, but we take the stock type suspension and improve on it to get your A Body ready to drag race or even do some noprep...
Please give this video a thumbs up and consider subscribing to the channel! Regardless thanks for watching!
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Do you have a video on stock A body wheel hop?
Wild Ride can get you everything you need for all these tri link cars. I run them for years
Kevin just wanted to let you know how helpful your gm a-body information was for me at the March Meet event at Bakersfield. The car is a1967 Elcamino have all chrome moly and heim jointed rear bars. Just fabricated new upper torque boxes after seeing your video. I now have seven holes for adjustment. Upper bars are 15 degrees down and are 9 inches long lower bars almost 0 degrees. 60ft. Times went from 1.60 to1.45 car was high 10.90s just ran 10.58 it’s best by far. This is the biggest single improvement I have made to the car. This is with single adjustable qa1 all around.Will be following with double adjustable coil overs front and rear. It’s almost unbelievable how well that just worked. Thank you Kevin you have my attention.
This is exactly why I take the time I do on this channel!!! I am really excited to hear about your progress and success with the 67 El Camino! Boom!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
This is the Chevelle video I needed! All I have done to my 67 Chevelle is replace the rear trailing arms with the Hotchkis arms and brace with a factory rear sway bar. They helped over the stock arms but due to the wrong type of rims that came on the car when I bought it. It also has air shocks to raise the body to clear the tires. I need to get different rims badly!
Thanks for doing these videos! It's really appreciated!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Very good info. Thank you. This will help a BUNCH with the 68 Chevelle that my best friend is currently running. We made progress last season. We got it into the 9's N/A. This will definitely speed up our learning curve. Looks like MUCH of this info will transfer to my 79 Malibu as well. Heading into the 9's N/A SBC this season as well.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Congrat! This will absolutely translate to the 79 Malibu!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Another one here for Wild Rides. I've got all their stuff on the back end of my Cutlass...Top notch!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Looking forward to seeing what you got. Had my 67 ss since 74 gotta watch later
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. It is live: ruclips.net/video/NgJqJqgA7oY/видео.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC I would watch it now but I'm out moving things around to get it running for spring. Apart since 2001
Thanks for the shout out! Love the video. This is fundamental for a proper launch and full send down the 1/4 and quintessential for a 1/2 runs.
Beautiful 66 you have there!
Thank you! Check out the video of it on my channel to see how stable the engine is and how smooth it cruises. Will do a video of lighting up the tires and doing a launch down the strip once I get it to Jackson SC.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. RJ I enjoyed meeting you!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Thanks again for another instruction on how the factory 4 link should work 👍
Absolutely, Ronald! Appreciate the comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
You have a world of knowledge. After seeing this video I come to find out I set up my 64 A Body all wrong. Ugh.
Thanks for this!! I have a 68 Pontiac LeMans/GTO project in the development stage and have been watching your videos to learn how best to approach this exact subject. I have several friends each running different setups and the more I listen to them the more confused I get. Two have a small tire radial with ladder bars and the other 2 have 4 link. Your description of the changes I should follow make the most sense in my head with the triangulated stock setup up with upgraded components. Looking forward to the next video and thanks for being so generous with your knowledge!!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. You are absolutely on the right track if you want to keep it "stock style" 68!! Now if you are willing to cut it up and then I would personally would to the back half pro 4 link. I would struggle cutting up a 68 for sure. I would not mind putting in an upper adjust torque box as the factory one needs some love. But cutting off the back half frame, would be a tough decision just because it is a 68. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
I’m not a drag racer but I’m intrigued with the geometry and physics you discuss required to make a car go.
I have a ‘65 Catalina 2D Post. Had numerous rear suspension issues. Vibration over 60, violent wheel hop. Had all stock parts and couldn’t figure out why. The middle part of this video is the best part. Plainly states what the arm angles should be.
Long story short, I upgraded rear and front suspension by PMT Fab. Viking shocks, sway bars, polys. Along the way the main source of the issue was discovered. Turns out Eaton Detroit sent me wagon springs 20 years ago and I never knew. Added 2.5” of rear ride ht. Messed everything up.
Using your arm angles of 0* on the lowers and 10* for uppers I mocked up my car to design spring height. Turns out that the arms at design ht are at 0 and 10.
We shall see how the car drives and performs. Perhaps a few 1/4 mile trips next summer will be on the list.
Class is in session! Incohkd watch Abody information all day long!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
I am putting a 9" Moser in my 67 Malibu with global west braces and coilover brkts and tubular crosspoint for 2way adj. Coilovers. I am going to pull body and weld restore frame and install c channel bracing and triangular gussets. Additional point heights for fronts of upper and lower control arms from global west..Great video regarding difference of radials and slicks..
Exactly what I was looking for, drag and drive build
Thanks Kevin, I have to do some measuring now. I have a 65 GTO 1400 hp street strip car 4000lbs, T56 magnum stick, runs 8’s has an adjustable clutch and I run slicks. It has a moser 9” and they build it with a lower mounting point on the lower bar and a higher mounting point on the upper which achieves the same (I think) as you are describing, I made the lower bar less aggressive because it was causing wheel hop. But you have me thinking now, so I will have to do some measuring! Looking forward to the next video! Thanks!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Definitely confirm your bar angles and shocks! Keep me posted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC with my Moser 9” I have 10 degrees down angle on the top bar and with changing location of the mounting hole at the rear end up I have 2 degrees on the lower bar. So basically Moser builds their bolt in A body rear ends to be set up exactly like you described! Pretty happy about that!
@@Canadianchucknorris69 They got it going on for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
KevinWilsonSBC
Just found your channel couple days ago, love it, super informative and couldn't be more timely as I dig into my 68 Malibu, keep the great videos coming 👍
Welcome to the channel!! Good to have and thanks for commenting!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Another great video. All this stuff was a secret ten years ago Thank you so much.
The Merrilat torque box works for the chevelle's. Great video Kevin A body's rule!
Yes... Merillat Racing absolutely rocks! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I use south side machine lower bars and brackets. They can be bolted on and the welded later.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I use their G Body upper fully adjustable control arms on the 48 Ford Coupe. Checkout my video on it at ruclips.net/video/jdU05MLunek/видео.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Us b body guys need some love too!
Got it! I have that high on the list, but I may need to bump that up!! Thanks for commenting! Are there any good B Body forums or FB sites I should look for? Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Excellent video, but you gave away all my secrets. Lol. It's amazing what can be done with this suspension. It took a lot of trial and error to figure this stuff out with what I had available over the years. I got some pointers from super stock racer Don McElroy in the late 70s, that I used to figure out how to make this all work. It's nice the brackets that are available today. Thanks. Looking to see what you have for the front. God1st
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I have had so many racers help me over the years and I love helping others racers so we can keep our sport alive. I would love to hear all your stories!! My dad tells me every day how amazed he is at the info available on the internet. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Great video Kevin - very clear and super helpful. I am building a '64 Vista Cruiser Wagon with a turbo LS. Would be amusing to see it launch safely & beautifully on the strip, so will be watching all your videos. Thank you!
Good info Kevin thank you for taking the time.
I got your full reply! All good!
Good stuff Kevin.
Thanks so much! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kev, thanks for all the work you been putting out the last few months! Will you be doing any video with you racing this year? I think you’d do a great job filming at the track and explaining everything that’s going on through your head before and after you make a rip.
You are welcome! O yes!!!! I will be doing a full vlog on the 53 Studebaker. Remember I have never driven this car at all, so I will walk through how I approach it, and all of the thoughts at the track and real footage of it. Any issues or adjustments will be captured and shared. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Wild Ride has the upper replacement same as you showed. Also the lower box can be changed with many adjustment holes. They have it all
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
hopefully we will see a tri 4 link video for the A body mopars too heheh. nice info keep it up 😁
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I will add it to the list! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC all good mate! im spreading the word to my mopar buddies down under so hopefully when i make the move the the tri 4 link setup im researching your knowledge and videos will be an invaluable source.....power on!
Great video as always! Can’t wait to apply this for the summer in my b body !
Keep me posted, Thomas! Thank-you for dropping a comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Like stated Wild Rides has the A Box and a really nice ARB. Have a build thread using them on Yellow Bullet.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC enjoy the video, learned from all your videos too
Hi Kevin,
Thanks so much for the excellent and very informative videos. I have followed your advise given on part 1 and 2
on this topic of GM A-body front and rear suspension's, I'm looking at Chassis Works Bolt In Coil over conversion kit for GM A Body.
The kit I'm considering is with 12'' 150 lbs springs, dbbl adjust shocks. the shocks are 14.52'' extended, 9.37'' compressed and with 5.15'' total travel. Designed for the A-Body's, the ride height is adjusted + or - 2'' without changing the installed height by raising or lowering the lower mounting point of the shock and the reason I'm interested.
DO YOU THINK THERE IS ENOUGH SHOCK TRAVEL HERE AT 5.15'''.
Current set up is, M/T Pro Bracket Radials and Radial Pro's 275-60-15 x 10'' , A/S IS AT 127 % IC @ 46'' ICH 10''' 1970 GTO 1920 FT WT 1620 R WT with stock upper arms and solid boxed BMR lowers and 2bbl adjust QA1 with 150lbs stock type springs. 4.10 spool. front are qa1 coil over 450 lbs with 2bbl adjust.1.39 10.55 @ 127 . I have but not yet installed BMR adjustable upper arms.
thanks for your time love your work
I've always installed PST performance suspension rear control arms both upper and lower the upper being adjustable..some drag shocks and even a air bag in the right rear spring to keep the right rear bumper from trying to touch the pavement...
Thanks for commenting Michael!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
This is a very interesting video. I was running about a 2 inch different in my lower bar angled up in front. Stock location everything and running TRZ components in the back W ARB.
I'd love to see you pov on what's needed on a S197 Mustang (05-14). I have approx. 800whp, trans-brake, turbo, on stiff-wall slicks trying to do better at the track. Current pb is a 6.3@110, with a best 60' of 1.53 (I think 1.4's would be an attainable 60' goal on this 3600lb. car). I have plotting dots all over the side of my car, and quite a bit of adjustment on the rear of this thing if that's something you'd be interested in to get me some help. Thanks for your time, and excellent video as usual!
I’m so happy I stumbled on to your videos, I instantly subscribed. I have a 70 chevelle with a N/A 632 and a manual transmission. My question is does this information apply to a manual transmission car? Thank you for sharing your vast amount of knowledge.
Thanks for the sub! Yes it applies to a manual transmission car for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
My dad had a 66 Chevelle SS 396. Killed the 396 and replaced it with an L88 427. My first hotrod memory was me standing up in the front seat (1973 or 74. I was 3 or 4yo) and him hammering the throttle. Hmmm... must of been about then the seed was planted. I cant recall any other memories from that age
OMG... my first memories of "dad, make it go fast" was dad's 1967 Coronet RT with a 440, 3 x 2 bbl, factory Indy heads and 4 speed with 3.90s in the dana 60. He made a set of homemade traction bars for the leaf springs and that thing would bury the factory 150 MPH speedometer on HWY 17 south heading from Charleston, SC to Beaufort! He had modified the 4 speed so he could shift it without the clutch and never lifting on the gas. There was only 1 car that out ran him on the street and we street raced that Coronet all over the state. Coming home from a street race in early one morning from Walterboro, SC, we had a car get up on his bumper. It was still dark, like 4:30 am. So dad dropped in 3rd and floored it. Hit 4th and the headlights were still right there! Then around 130 it came around up. It was a Ferrari and to this day I am not sure what was in it. He kept pulling away we lifted and just didn't say a word for another 30 minutes. LOL. Eventually we caught and we just waved. I really need to video my dad talking about all these stories. Not long after that weekend, my dad lost his license at another street race from the Highway Patrol and mom and me had to drive him to and from work every day for a year. Needless to say, that began to curb our street racing. Everytime dad would get on the main roads with the Coronet the cops would pull him over. Right tickets for "Steering too small", "car is too loud", "tail lights too dim".. the Highway Patrol actually told my dad his job was to write him a ticket every chance he got until he sold the car. 3 months after that, Dad sold the Coronet and the next owner put on the track full time at Blaney dragstrip around Elgin, SC. It later had a bad fate with the guard rails and we lost track of it then.
Sorry for rambling.. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC not ramblings, good memories. I can tell from the video your dad uses the throttle as an on/off switch lol
Thanks Kevin! I needed this info badly!
3 min into video i knew i had to SUB to the channel ................ I know the rest has to get better.
I put Lakewood bars on my 68 chevelle and adjustable upper arms with 50/50 rear shocks and 90/10 fronts. It relocated bottom link 2 1/2"lower on rear end. Still won't run under 1.8's 60ft with 9.5" drag radials without spinning. Runs 11's@114mph.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Definitely need to get some good double adjustable shocks, front and rear. Depending on your power levels and gearing, we can definitely do better than 1.8 60ft times!!!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Absolutely can get way lower 60"s. Definitely shock change and keep rear of car low as the video showed
Thanks for all the good info I have a 67 cutlass this info will help for sure
Love the 67 Cutlass!!! Yes, keep me posted on it please. Thanks for leaving a comment. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC ruclips.net/video/0vCVG6iZIeA/видео.html
QA1 no hop bars jegs upper and lower tubular arms bmr sway bar
12 bolt true track 342 geAR 275 PRO RADIALS
@8:22 thats how my 73 El Camino launched with a 396, all drivers side way up in the air with 2.73 gears with a sway bar
the 69 Chevelle isn't as bad but w/o slicks its useless spinning the tires all day long.
Great video! makes alot of sense! Thank you!
Very welcome! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Kevin, 70 SS Chevelle street/strip 900 hp NA 565 ci. Dick Miller chrome- moly fully adjustable heim-jointed upper and lower control arms in rear.... with triangulation braces . Top arm is pointed down about 12.5- 13 degrees . Bottom arm is pointed up about 3 degrees. 295/65-15 MT RADIALS. Is that bottom arm pointed up excessively? Sounds about right to me according to your video.
Thanks for commenting and asking! With a Radial, you may end up going a tad more uphill on the bottom bar, but start there and test and video. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Mr Wilson. i know your a busy man. but I'm trying to put a radial tire, A body, 1970 monte carlo together. I have the 9 in from Currie. The G-Body torque box kit from Merillat Racing. A global West coil over conversation kit. With TRZ upper and lower bars. My question is, What happens when the top bar levels out to 0 degrees? Will it keep rising? i did not get the springs nor shocks. still not fully prepped to weigh it yet. trying to figure out how much extension i can get. but the bar levels out early. that's with 15 degrees down. can i still get extension after the upper bar levels out and how much rise? thank you for your time. any info would be greatly appreciated.
This video is very helpful esp for a guy trying to make his 67 Chevelle go 10s as a street strip car and a 4 spd. 🙄. Why do you feel the Currie is the superior rearend? I’ve purchased a QP fab and braced housing, 3:73 w/a wave trac center section.
Not necessarily superior, just available and bolts right in with this use case. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Kevin video was very detailed and informative. To bad this video wasn't out 6 months ago because I restored my 70 chevelle frame and fully boxed it in with a kit I bought from ABC performance and fit like a glove but never thought of reinforcing the torque boxes . I guess the welder is coming out again because my 396 is making over 625 hp. I have a set of southside machine traction lift bars wonder what your thoughts are about using them ?
Thanks so much, Moe! I appreciate you leaving a comment. The lift bars by Southside Machine are good pieces! Did you get the the LCA relo brackets also? I run their G Body Front Upper control arms on the 48 Ford! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Yes I do have the reloc plates .
Ok, awesome video. So where am I shipping my 65' chevelle SS to? Nj speedshops/fabricators are non existent. I have a 750+ hp lsx being built for it already
Thanks so much!! Appreciate you leaving a comment. Checkout our website at samsonperformance.com and/or our FaceBook page at facebook.com/kevinwilsonsbc
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
_KevinWilsonSBC_
@@KevinWilsonSBC I do not have a fb account. I did just send you a message on IG tho. Look forward to talking with ya s. Great work again on that video!
So how about a Ford 8.8 with the A/G body platform? How do the forward ears affect the suspention for better or worse? Maybe another video?
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. The 8.8 is a solid rear end for sure! Let me add that to the list. Thanks so much, Bill! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Do you have a video that discusses pinion angle with a leaf spring car? Im trying to find information about that with a radial set-up. thank you for everything you do!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I do have a pinion angle video, but I need to make one for leaf springs. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/YE7Rn93JnD8/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC thank you. I watched several today. My car will be a big heavy pig but gaining the knowledge is truly appreciated!
Thanks for this
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Great video
If you had to pick a setup between adjustable lower torque boxes or adjustable on the rearend side or do you think it doesn’t matter?
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. If I had to pick 1 or the other, I would do adjustable lower torque boxes for 2 reason. 1) that gives me a stronger box on the chassis to eliminate the thin factory box. 2) I can get a level or a tad up bottom bar. Of course, I still need to address that top bar angle. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
There was a company years ago that made a bracket that located the upper arm mounting points several inches above the factory points on the differential housing to change the instant center.. It bolted to the upper arm mounts on the differential housing and anchored to the webbing. I can't remember the name.
O yes. They were the “no hop” bars. They had the idea right but they were “weak” for today’s power levels.
After watching this video it has me thinking about the unequal length of the lca's vs torque arm on fbody cars. In this case the torque arm is higher and longer. Does this have an opposite effect on the chassis? Like instant center becoming shorter as the car rises? Maybe you could touch on this.
I will add this to the list of suggestions. This is more in play with a shorter and higher mount TQ arm vs the stock length tq arm, but I can hit on this one more. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks Kevin! I have the shorter higher arm so I'll be tuned in as always. Thanks again for sharing your wisdom!
Great advice Kevin, thx a lot for your video. I ran out to the garage and measured the bar angles on my holden which is the same design . It runs 26 degrees down on the top bar and 3.5 up on the lower bar. Do you think this is in the ball park to run it at the track and start tuning the shocks. Car is 3500lb 700hp turbo Ls, 255 radial streeter
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. With a good set of shocks and radials it should plant the tire! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC thx Kevin, I was worried 26 on the top was too much. Cheers
Great video. I only wish you could explain the instant center, center of gravity, anti squat relationship and problems in an A-body. Would you lengthen or change the height of the upper control arms to the housing?
I have videos on the topics you mentioned but just not included in this video. If I were to change the height on the housing I would likely go aftermarket with the housing all together. With some adjustable torque boxes the stock height and length are fine. Here is a video on what you were discussing: ruclips.net/video/_vtb_utqSJM/видео.html same principles apply to any chassis.
@@KevinWilsonSBC I was watching out of order. Thank you.
hi Kevin BTW Merillat fabricates as well for the GM A-Body a torq box kit, love the videos thx
His work is some of the best out there IMO!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Hi Kevin, How about rearend no hop bars to make the "upper" bars go down hill I have looked at most all of your videos and no coverage on the no hop bars. The 35 years ago ones that were to tall were junk. At least 2 company's now make nice shorter ones. Your thoughts on those bars????
They are not bad these days, but generally at the power levels I am dealing with, the stock chassis boxes are the major weak link due to flexing. With that in mind, I tend to focus my energy on replacing the torque boxes. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Kevin, have you got a link for the suspension plotting software ?
For sure! Here is the link to the 4 Link Wizard software: www.jerrybickel.com/4-link-wizard-professional-version.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I have a 1979 g body wagon. I have found TRZ parts before and have been plankton use them. My question for you is if I use rod ends in all 4 bars will I need a panhard bar? Or is the angle of the top bars enough to hold side to side movment?
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. That is a great question. I meant to cover this in my video, and I will cover it in Part 2 on the front. The triangulated bars will located the rear, but we have ran a diagonal link bar as a safety measure. I am not a panhard bar for drag racing. If you run chromoly or 4340 thickwall bars with chromoly rod ends, you should be good, but added insurance is SAFE. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Great video. What is pinion angles for an a body running radials?
NAS is the national aircraft standard, it is a basic spec for bolts used for aircraft components.
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I know they are freaking strong on high impact loads like 4 link bolts. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
The Chassis support brackets were usually used on 4-speed cars.
Thanks for the info!! Also, thank-you for taking the time to leave a comment. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
What's your opinion on anti hop bars from Dick Miller? They raise the top bar attachment point for the angle you are asking for? Thanks, great video's
Better than stock for sure, but for any applications other than just pure street fun, then I prefer more strength. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Can you look over 65-70 Chevy B-body and give me your ideas.
Anti roll, solid bushings and set it low and it will hook. Am I right
David, it absolutely will like that a bunch depending on how hard you want to hit, but you are 100% spot on! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Trick chassis has upper bracket for top arm torque box 5 hole and lower rear bracket
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I have looked at their site before but didn't see any torque boxes for the A Body cars. I will take a look again though. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
I found them!!! Thanks for the info. I will add that info the video description! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Im in...
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Hi Kevin,
QA1 offers an "Anti Hop" package the relocates the mount for the upper arms up about 4 inches. Have you seen this? Will this make a measurable difference? They are QA1 Part number 5213
The theory of the anti hop bars makes sense but I don’t like them for anything with power. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Hello all I would like to ask about changing instant center on the rear upper trailing arm crossmember,I talked to Tony from abc performance doing this mod ,but for handling,for autocross and road coarse.
He said they did his 3 different holes up 5/8 center to center apart from the original hole.could some one explain the difference moving the pick up points up compared to down like in the video.
Thanks.
If you converted to rear disc, do you still need the "C" clip eliminator?
Not all rear disc conversions include C clip eliminators so PLEASE make sure you kit allows the elimination of the C clips. Most rear disc conversions will work with C clip eliminators though. Just not always the other way around. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Any idea how relocating the control arms may be viewed in stock suspension classes?
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. They are still attached to the rear end the same way and same location. You need to confirm for sure, but to me, this is stock suspension by the spirit of the rule. Installing ladder bars or custom 4 link is not stock suspension. You are keeping the same layout on the rear end and chassis, just a longer bracket with holes further away from the axle centerline. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
The relocation of holes has been done for a long time. The rules used to stipulate rectangular stock type arms. That may have changed.
I spent half the day googling and on utube, I can't find any info on this problem. I personally believe that rwd is outty. but if that's all they are doing, it shouldn't be a secret
Sure am glad mopars went with leaf springs in most of their old muscle cars. Not that junky rear suspension that Chevy used.
Love the leaf springs!!! The 67 Coronet R/T 440 with 4 speed, I promise it would hook on a dirt road!!!! I will be doing some Mopar videos soon! Thanks for supporting my channel with views. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I enjoy your vids.
I see pop's is still a teenager running wild on tha streets. Probably like his first child, just felt too good to stop. Sorry sorry I'll stop.
O yes.... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
8.5 10 bolt is fine and most c clip eliminators aren’t for the street he should mention that
Get Ford big bearing ends and find a way to weld them on
Thank-you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for supporting my channel! I don't take your views and support for granted. I build my own rear ends and offer that at my shop. With a 1000 HP and 1000 lbs ft of torque, even with some fo the best gears, we have had decent success with the 8.5" 10 bolt. But, in the years of this video, they have 8.2". If going to the trouble to change it, please Lord, go with a 12 bolt or 9"!!! Also, we convert all of our street rear ends to C Clip eliminators so not sure where you get they are not for the street. Just saying we do this a bunch for street, street rods, and drag cars. You mention big ford bearing ends. Yes, great idea and that eliminates C Clips!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
@@KevinWilsonSBC I’d go the 12bolt but the 9” is so noticeable not A body
I thought you were trying to keep the look of a body. Can you tell me what brand c clip eliminators don’t leak oil and can take constant side loads?
@@TimothyGambino9085 yeah I explain in the video, to keep it more stock, then use the 12 bolt, but for those who want more then the 9 inch is a definite option. We have had the most success with Moser c clip eliminators: www.moserengineering.com/c-clip-eliminators-for-gm-10-bolt-and-12-bolt-axles-except-impalas-and-trucks.item
I just cannot keep everyone happy... LOL.
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I’m happy bud I was just asking a question lol
@@TimothyGambino9085 sorry been a long day with video issues. My bad man. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Slowing and repeating your voice is funny but also a bit freaky😜😳
yeah... not sure I will do that again... my wife said "No, Kevin.. don't do that anymore. Please, that sounds kinda demonic... stop" I then said "yes, dear." So there you have it... not doing that anymore. LOL... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Im not 100% convinced L-69 tri power was available with a/c..
Reason is the tri-power was manual trans only, no automatic trans options available with the 3 carb option. L-69 tri power spec'd the "308" cam, which was relatively lumpy for a stock vehicle even in the musclecar era. This camshaft could not be had with a/c, so...see where im going with this? This car is fitted with a 4 speed, so that makes sense. Ill have to dig deeper on this subject because something is throwing a red flag in my old feeble brain.
I'm running the UMI rear arms on my 65 GTO, its mainly a daily driver street car running Cooper radials, but it has a 550hp/near 600ftlb 455 in it. It also has the rear sway bar from my 70 GTO, since the 70 needs a frame off rebuild, and its too heavy to race. The 65 goes straight even when its spinning, but the best it might do is a 1.7 60ft, keeping it a street ride because I have others to race. I like the UMI bars though, inexpensive, well built, and they work quite well.
I learned a lot trying to get that 70 to hook, and found most of what you said here to be what I found, got some new ideas and things to try from your video. Good idea boxing everything around the mounts, I hadn't really thought of that. Trying to make 600ftlbs work in a 4100lb car with a 90lb front bumper is a challenge to say the least.
Currently its a 68 LeMans that is getting the work so I can make it hook. I had been trying to race a 79 Formula with a 700hp/tq Pontiac in it, but it needs so much work its cheaper and easier to build a different car. I'll make that Bird into a fun street strip toy again with a mild 10 second 455/461, embarrass the local guys with it. The bottom end of that 700hp engine is only a 467, the top end is going on a 505, and it might see a little help getting air in, so I need a chassis that can handle a lot more torque. The 68 is getting the nod, because its a $300 car I pulled out of a Nebraska pasture in 2014. Its been lightened considerably already, so its not going to be a 3500-4000lb car, shooting for a lot less than that to make up for my gelatinous mass.
While watching your vid I am thinking about how I can lower the upper mount points, and change the IC so it pushes the rear down and lifts the front rather than the usual squat these things have. You gave me some great numbers to use as starting points, which I was missing, thank you so much for that. I have no problem cutting stuff and welding... but the budget and intent dictates no back half 4 links. I want it to look mostly stock under there. Its going to be a sleeper of sorts, I want people to underestimate it so making subtle changes to the factory stuff is the way to go. It has a 12 bolt right now, planning on a 9" as soon as the engine is done.
Thank you for the info, I have enough A bodies around here to keep me busy for a while. Getting them all to hook would be great, 455s make traction an issue.
Really enjoyed reading your comment... definitely get the control arms changed and it WILL work. Good that you can weld as that will help a bunch!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I can do more than weld, but I need to get some more equipment to do things I want to do. e.g. tubing bender, Bridgeport mill, turret lathe, etc. I did a complete frame off on the 65, it wasn't even a good parts car when I got it in 2007, the rust was real bad. Made a slideshow of the 65 build on my channel, I had no idea video would be a thing like it is now when I built that car. The rest of them are going to be put online with video.
I probably won't show what I do under the 68 to make it hook though. The 69 GTO makes what the 65 started as look like a show car. The 68 is going to be the test mule, see what works and what doesn't. Thanks again for the starting point, it helps an awful lot. Absolutely invaluable information.